Walking Denver

The greater Highlands neighborhood (what is collectively called the Highlands today is actually many small historic neighborhoods) was once home to three amusement parks that all competed for customers beginning in the late 1800s. Into the 1990s, there were still two of these historic amusement parks standing and in use, and now just one remains, which you will see on this walk. Perhaps it was the combination of open land, the strict moral codes of the neighborhood that forbid alcohol sales for many years, and a desire to get out of the hectic downtown for a little clean fun nearby that made Highlands a natural place to develop gardens, add some animals, and throw in a few thrill rides. Elitch Gardens was the best-known amusement park—in Denver and beyond—and this walk begins on the site of the park’s remains that are now surrounded by urban infill housing. For several blocks, Tennyson Street is a thriving business district filled with shops, restaurants, and art galleries. As the walk comes to an end after a stroll through Berkeley Park, you will have a chance to experience living history at Lakeside Amusement Park, the city’s last historic amusement park still in operation since its opening in 1908.

Start your walk under the old Elitch’s Pavilion at the corner of 38th Avenue and Tennyson Street. This used to be where the park’s carousel twirled visitors around and around; it’s now used for various community events. Look out the sides of the pavilion to see the historic theatre, the only remaining original building from the park. Elitch Gardens was opened in 1890 when John and Mary Elitch transformed an apple orchard and garden into a family-friendly resort with zoo animals, a professional theatre, vaudeville acts, and rides. The park changed with the times—going from an emphasis on theatre to hosting large dances in the Trocadero building, and then adding roller coasters and thrill rides. In 1994, Elitch’s was “relocated” to the Central Platte Valley, and this 28-acre site was transformed into Highlands Garden Village, a “New Urbanism” layout of 300 housing units and businesses.

Cross 38th Avenue to begin walking north up Tennyson Street. This section of Highlands is actually called Berkeley, just like the park you will come to near the end of the walk. As you walk along Tennyson Street you will see yoga studios, hair salons, an old-style barbershop, bookstores, art galleries, coffee shops, boutiques, bars, restaurants, and a playground. Oh, and a cat café. A big event takes place here every Halloween when five blocks of Tennyson Street are filled with costumed youngsters trick-or-treating at the local businesses in the middle of the day. The first Friday of the month is occasion for a “culture walk” among the businesses.

Tennyson Street is evolving, with old businesses—and even sometimes the buildings they were in for generations—disappearing and new startups in their place. Chances are that you’ll make some discoveries not mentioned here as the change continues.

Just after crossing 39th Avenue on your left is

Vital Root, a vegetarian restaurant with the emphasis on vegetables. Everything served is like a work of vegetable art.

Across the street is

Hops & Pie, where pizza toppings include bacon, pulled pork, and mashed potatoes, as well as vegan options. Go early and expect to wait because it’s popular.

Back on the west side of the street is the

Denver Cat Company. You know your city has reached ultimate hipsterness when you get a cat café. If you can’t or don’t have a feline at home, here you can cuddle and relax with a cup of coffee, a book, and a kitty. There is a cover charge to come in and pet the cats or paint portraits of them during a sipping and painting event.

On the other side of the street you will find

Block & Larder. Bring your appetite and maybe not the kids for dishes like cassoulet or trying the “eclectic whiskey” and bourbon selection.

Ladies, take a minute to step into Lady Jones, a boutique where you can find that next great little black dress or some stylish jeans.

A holdout from the Tennyson Street of yore is Kyle’s Kitchen next door. It’s a comfy and simple spot for a cup of coffee—love sitting at the “bar”—or a full meal. I’m a biscuits-and-gravy kind of gal, and this is a no frills place for just that kind of stick-to-your-ribs meal.

A few doors down is

Allegro Coffee, not your old funky college coffee shop. In what was formerly a neighborhood hardware store is a chic place for staying caffeinated and plugged in, maybe holding a business meeting over a locally made pastry.

You’ve since passed a couple of bars on the other side of the street. At

West End Tap House you can sample many a Colorado beer and have a bite to eat.

The blocks don’t quite match as you cross the street, but keep going north on Tennyson Street.

Kid Tip: “The fight is never about grapes or lettuce. It is always about people.” This quote is written on the side of Cesar E. Chavez Park, and I’ll leave it to you to imagine or figure out what it means and the connection to the park. The park is a great place to stop on your walk and play—some open field and a jungle gym that’s pretty fun as well. Keep in mind, this isn’t the only park and playground on this walk.

With the park on your left, across the street to your right is Inspyre Boutique, a women’s boutique that has high fashion and low prices—a better combination than matching shoes and purse!

After walking past Cesar E. Chavez Park, the business district continues with more bars, restaurants, and shops. In a former dance school you will find the

Denver Biscuit Company, Fat Sully’s Pizza, and Atomic Cowboy. This is a strange concept, but this is not their only Denver location, where, depending on the time of day, you can get a Southern-style biscuit breakfast, a hot slice, or a cold adult beverage. This too is a kid-friendly place, and I see families in here whenever I go.

Men, I didn’t forget you. There’s a boutique for your clothing needs too.

Berkeley Supply has T-shirts, jeans, boots, and more for the urban guy, with an emphasis on American made.

In fact, the whole family can shop on this street.

Real Baby has that perfect onesie, book, toy, wrap, everything you need for the bambino in your life.

Now it’s time to cross the street to

BookBar, a wine bar and bookstore with a book-themed menu, a summer patio, a cozy fireside reading room, and even BookBed upstairs, a swanky vacation rental for the traveling author or their adoring readership.

Just before 44th Avenue on the right is

Swing Thai, with a lovely hidden patio out back. At the corner of 44th Avenue and Tennyson Street is one of the neighborhood’s more popular restaurants,

Parisi Italian Market & Deli. With a menu of pizza, pasta, and gelato, what’s not to like?

Along 44th Avenue to the east is the Oriental Theater, a vintage movie theatre from the 1920s that is now a music venue. For a simple—and affordable—dinner, try Empanda Express Grill, which is arguably the best place in the city for these savory Venezuelan meal pockets.

Just around the corner back on Tennyson Street is Tenn Street Coffee & Books, which has books for sale and regular live music performances. Next you will see the Tennyson Studios, a collection of art galleries open during First Friday, and other times as well, to show off local budding artists.

Continue walking north on Tennyson Street as the next two blocks become mostly residential, with two notable exceptions:

MAS KAOS Pizzeria + Taqueria and

Local 46. Pizza and tacos, in the same place! Local 46 is a wonderful neighborhood bar that has perfectly mixed the old vibe with new style, and the best time to be here is in the spring and summer when you can sit outside, play a little cornhole, and relax in their biergarten.

Turn left on 46th Avenue after you cross the street to Berkeley Park and walk west on the paved path that is parallel to the park. Berkeley Park has tennis courts, a playground, a recreation center, and 43-acre Berkeley Lake. You can rent canoes, kayaks, and paddleboats at the lake in summer (wheelfunrentals.com).

On your right is the Smiley Branch Library, which was built with funds from the Carnegie Library Corporation at the turn of the century. Smiley was completed in 1918 and is one of only a handful of the Carnegie-funded libraries still open as a library in Denver.

The footpath will end as you get to the Scheitler Recreation Center parking lot. You can continue walking west on the grass to Sheridan Boulevard. Dog lovers may note that there is a designated dog park off to the right, next to I-70 on the park’s north flank.

Cross Sheridan Boulevard to

Lakeside Amusement Park. Even when the park is closed, you can peer in the gates and get a glimpse of the retro rides inside. Opened in 1908, Lakeside’s light tower, “Tower of Jewels,” was the tallest structure in the state—quite a brilliant sight on the wide-open prairie here. The carousel is original, and the miniature trains are from the 1904 St. Louis World’s Fair. While there are some newer rides, the older ones with the Art Deco fixtures and neon are still so fun. The 1940s wooden Cyclone Coaster is a designated landmark. Open during summer only, the amusement park takes up half of what is the small town of Lakeside for several blocks.

Kid Tip: At Lakeside’s Kiddie Playland, try to get the Denver Broncos car on the spinning ride.

Turn around and walk back the way you came to finish the loop. This walk can be combined with Walk 10 by walking 1 mile south on Tennyson Street to 26th Street.

Points of Interest

Vital Root 3915 Tennyson St., 303-474-4131, vitalrootdenver.com

Hops & Pie 3920 Tennyson St., 303-477-7000, hopsandpie.com

Denver Cat Company 3929 Tennyson St., 303-433-3422, denvercatco.com

Block & Larder 4000 Tennyson St. #101, 303-433-4063, blockandlarder.com

Allegro Coffee 4040 Tennyson St., 720-630-8157, allegrocoffee.com

West End Tap House 3945 Tennyson St., 303-433-4759, westendtaphouse.com

Denver Biscuit Co, Fat Sully’s, Atomic Cowboy 4275 Tennyson St., 303-377-7900, denbisco.com; 303-393-1515, fatsullys.com; and atomiccowboy.net

Berkeley Supply 4309 Tennyson St., 720-445-6818, berkeleysupply.com

Real Baby 4315 Tennyson St., 303-477-2229, realbabyinc.com

BookBar 4280 Tennyson St., 303-284-0194, bookbardenver.com

Swing Thai 4370 Tennyson St., 303-477-1994, swingthai.com

Parisi Italian Market & Deli 4401 Tennyson St., 303-561-0234, parisidenver.com

MAS KAOS Pizzeria + Taqueria 4526 Tennyson St., 720-638-2100, maskaosdenver.com

Local 46 4586 Tennyson St., 720-524-3792, local46bar.com

Lakeside Amusement Park 4601 Sheridan Blvd., 303-477-1621, lakesideamusementpark.com