Walking Denver

The River North Arts District (RiNo) encompasses a large, formerly industrial section of the city that borders the South Platte River. This walk is just one small part of the greater boundary area that has gone from warehouses to galleries and restaurants. Frankly, it’s the most walkable part of RiNo I could find, as those cool old warehouses don’t all have sidewalks out front—which you will see on part of this walk. It has been argued that this area is more accurately part of the Five Points neighborhood (see Walk 14), but more and more it’s being embraced as part of the developing greater RiNo area. So, let’s see if I can clear this up: artists Hadley Hooper and Tracy Weil pioneered an arts community in the industrial buildings north of downtown along the South Platte River, and today developers have expanded the boundaries and what is considered part of the arts community. Throughout this walk you will see evidence of artists with large murals painted on many of the historic buildings that are now bars and restaurants.

You can begin this walk at one end or the other of Larimer Street because it’s the same both directions. I’m starting at Larimer Street and Downing Street walking south. I recommend doing this walk as a sort of progressive lunch or dinner or even bar crawl because it is one restaurant after another here. Maybe one way to do it is walk first, building up an appetite and thirst as you make notes of where you want to stop on the way back.

Fish n’ Beer, featuring oysters as well as fish with craft brews, is only open for happy hour and dinner, so keep on walking if it’s your lunch hour.

The address and entrance are one block over, but one of the best places to go dancing in Denver is

Tracks, a gay nightclub.

As you cross 35th Street,

Phil’s Place will be on your right. It seems like an original on this street, but the wood paneling and general vibe are that of a less hip era (or maybe it’s come full circle to the latest trend). This family-run place has cold beer, tacos, and green chile on offer.

What started with some craft beer in Lyons, Colorado (a small town between Boulder and Rocky Mountain National Park to the west), has evolved into a regional food empire with a small outpost here:

Oskar Blues Chuburger, and alongside it is

Hotbox Roasters. Start your day with coffee and a doughnut at Hotbox, then mosey back at lunch for a bison, pork, or salmon burger and cold brew at Chuburger.

A new way to enjoy your pasta is found at

Dio Mio, where they have a frequently changing menu of handmade pastas with everything from squid ink to jalapeño.

The Infinite Monkey Theorem could be the reason you come to this neighborhood in the first place. It’s an urban winery—complete with an annual stomping of the grapes. Food trucks round out the offerings so you can make a night of it. Plan your visit with a tour or tasting event.

I love the ivy-covered walls of the patio for

The Populist. It’s such a charming spot for a special night out for upscale “American” cuisine, which is a mix of seafood, lamb, and pasta.

If you’re living in the neighborhood, you might stop in

OKHI for that retro item your place needs—you know, like a record player, drinking glass, or book.

For a really affordable old school Mexican meal, go to

La Casa de Manuel for a “wet” (aka smothered with green chile sauce) burrito. What they lack in a stylish exterior they make up for with a hearty meal.

Bar Fausto is more than a bar. You can have a surprisingly sophisticated meal here of rabbit, oysters, and bone marrow, all paired with a huge selection of cocktails.

It’s the new normal: cocktail bar + food trucks = the place to be.

Finn’s Manor is kind of a combination of other places on this street, as the owners are also connected to The Populist and Crema. They serve beer, wine, and cocktails in a space that feels more Cajun than western with bright colors and an inviting patio.

What seems to me to be the most popular coffee shop on the street is

Crema, with its fishbowl corner location, friendly staff, spot-on coffee (latte, espresso, what have you), and delectable menu of salads and sandwiches.

There is no shortage of craft breweries in Colorado or even on this street, but you won’t be sorry if you spend time at

Our Mutual Friend Brewing Company. Come for a cold beer, stay for the food truck eats and tunes. Like many of the old brick buildings along this street, the brewery’s building is adorned with colorful original artwork—in this case, kaleidoscopic human figures against a blue backdrop.

Amid all of the bars, wineries, and breweries is a historic church,

Sacred Heart Catholic Church, which has been here since 1879. Mass is still offered in both English and Spanish. Take a few minutes to go inside and read more about the history of the church.

I’ve mentioned Denver B-cycle throughout this book as a way to get around town, to and from walks. Their headquarters are right here, so drop in or drop off your bike.

One place I like to come listen to and see bands is

Larimer Lounge, an intimate space to see local and touring bands. Just around the corner is

The Meadowlark Bar, a subterranean space with live music nightly. Before the Lumineers were playing Red Rocks Amphitheatre (see Walk 27), they were playing here.

Look left.

Cold Crush is on the corner directly across the street. What sets this bar apart is that it’s devoted to hip-hop music with DJs mixing old and new styles.

Cross 27th Street to arrive at the

Denver Central Market, where you can drop in for a meal or a drink—or buy the ingredients to make your own at home.

Walk to 26th Street. If you were to turn right here you would be on Walnut Street, which is worth visiting. However, Walnut Street doesn’t have a continuous sidewalk like Larimer Street, so I’ll just make recommendations. You’ll find Osaka Ramen for yummy Japanese food (save room for dessert), Jiberish men’s boutique, 10 Barrel Brewing Company, and then at about 28th Street is Stem Ciders, with hard ciders and live music, Epic Brewing Company at about 30th Street, and the Walnut Room with late-night pizzas between 31st and 32nd.

Let’s keep going on this walk of culinary possibilities! For modern Japanese, step into

Sushi Rama—so colorful and with a conveyor belt in the center of the bar and tables with plates of sushi rolling by. Next up is

Il Posto, which relocated from the Uptown neighborhood to RiNo, expecting that their loyal customers will follow to keep up with the ever-changing seasonal Italian menu.

One more block to go.

Port Side is a coffee shop with a full breakfast and a lunch menu too. Another retail store mixed in here is

Topo Designs, which makes outdoor gear and apparel for men and women.

And while not the last restaurant in the area, the last on my list of recommendations during this walk is

Los Chingones, an upscale Mexican eatery that offers indoor and outdoor seating.

Once you’ve reached Broadway it’s time to turn around and walk back to your car or bike or bus. Before you do though, look across the street for the rhinoceros sculpture, Rhino, by Mike Whiting (2010).