On many warm summer evenings, nothing tastes better than a cooling main-course salad or a zesty plate of pasta. If you’re eating the meal outside, give it that flavor, grilling or smoking some of the key ingredients. Greens go great with almost anything cooked outdoors, and so do many pasta and noodle dishes from all corners of the globe. Try a few of our recipes and then strike out on your own, inventing your own signature combinations of favorite foods.
We think of such dinners as happily fortuitous occasions. Often you can do the grilling or smoking a couple of days in advance, perhaps when you’re firing up anyway for another evening out. Throw on an extra chicken breast, more vegetables or seafood, and you’ve got a tailor-made double play. Entertaining-and maybe life in general-doesn’t get much simpler.
This sterling salad literally sings of spring. We grill both the salmon and the asparagus and then bring them together with a creamy dressing, tender greens, and feathery fresh dill. Serve with warm bread, perhaps made seasonal itself with a spread of radish butter, prepared by mixing grated radishes into soft sweet butter with a little salt.
COOKING METHOD | GRILLING
Serves 6 as a main dish
One 1-pound skin-on salmon fillet, preferably about ¾ inch thick
Creamy Dijon Dressing
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon mayonnaise
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, or more to taste
1 medium shallot, minced
Coarse salt, either kosher or sea salt
1 teaspoon freshly cracked black peppercorns
½ teaspoon coarse salt, either kosher or sea salt
1 pound asparagus spears, preferably medium-thick, tough stems trimmed
¼ cup lightly packed minced fresh dill
1 cup mixed tender baby greens or micro-greens
Lemon wedges
Stroke the surface of the salmon, feeling for tiny pin bones. Remove any that you find with tweezers.
Prepare the dressing, first whisking together the mustard and mayonnaise and then adding the oil. Once combined, whisk in the lemon juice, shallot, and salt.
Pour about 1½ tablespoons of the dressing over the salmon, coating the flesh side evenly. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and let sit uncovered at room temperature. Toss the asparagus with about 1½ tablespoons of the dressing, just enough to coat them from tip to tail.
Fire up the grill for a two-level fire capable of cooking first on high heat (1 to 2 seconds with the hand test) and then on medium heat (4 to 5 seconds with the hand test).
Transfer the salmon fillet skin side up to the well-oiled grate. Grill uncovered over high heat for 2 minutes, rotating the fillet after 1 minute to get crisscross grill marks. (If the fillets are thicker than 1 inch, keep them skin side up for an additional minute, rotating after 1½ minutes.) Unless you get serious flare-ups, don’t touch or move the fillet except when time to rotate or turn, because getting a good sear where the fish touches the grate is essential to help prevent sticking. If you get any resistance when you rotate the fish, reoil the grate. Gently turn the fillets skin side down and continue cooking for about 4 more minutes, until the skin is very dark and crisp. The salmon is done when just barely opaque, with a touch of darker translucence remaining at the center. Set the salmon aside to cool and reduce the heat to medium to grill the asparagus.
Transfer the asparagus to the grill over medium heat, perpendicular to the cooking grate, placing the stem ends over the warmer part of the fire and the tips out toward a cooler edge. Grill uncovered for 5 to 8 minutes, depending on thickness, rolling it frequently to cook on all sides.
Remove and discard the skin from the salmon, then break the salmon into bite-sized chunks. Toss with about 2 more tablespoons of the dressing, enough to make the mixture glisten, and chill for at least 30 minutes. Toss the asparagus with about 2 more tablespoons of dressing and refrigerate it for at least 30 minutes, too.
To assemble the salads, divide the asparagus spears among the plates, fanning them from a bottom edge of each plate. Spoon a neat mound of salmon over the stem ends of each plate of asparagus. Scatter the dill over the plates equally, then arrange a small tangle of the greens over each mound of salmon. Drizzle the remaining dressing equally over the tip ends of the asparagus on each plate, garnish with lemon, and serve.
When you dice and mix the ingredients for a chopped salad, every bite offers the combined flavors of the whole. In this case, that’s a mighty vibrant blend.
COOKING METHOD | GRILLING
Serves 6 to 8 as a main dish
Warm Bacon Dressing
6 ounces bacon, diced
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2½ to 3 tablespoons white or white wine vinegar
¾ teaspoon sugar
¾ teaspoon coarse salt, either kosher or sea salt
One 10- to 12-ounce skin-on salmon fillet, preferably about ¾ inch thick
Flavorful olive oil
Coarse salt, either kosher or sea salt, and freshly ground black pepper
6 cups shredded romaine
2 to 3 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and grated
2 red-ripe medium tomatoes, diced
2 ripe medium avocados, peeled, pitted, and diced
Prepare the dressing, first frying the bacon in a skillet over medium heat until brown and crisp. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon and reserve both it and the drippings. Remove the skillet from the heat and stir into the drippings the oil, 2½ tablespoons vinegar (which will sizzle a bit), the sugar, and the salt Taste and add the remaining vinegar if needed to balance the dressing, since the amount of bacon fat can vary a bit. Reserve at room temperature.
Fire up the grill, bringing the temperature to high (1 to 2 seconds with the hand test).
Stroke the surface of the salmon, feeling for tiny pin bones. Use tweezers to remove any that you find. To facilitate even cooking, make diagonal slashes down through the salmon, 2 to 3 inches apart, from one side to the other, without cutting through the skin. Rub with the oil, then sprinkle with salt and pepper. Let sit covered at room temperature for about 20 minutes.
Transfer the fillet skin side up to the well-oiled grate. Grill uncovered over high heat for 2 to 3 minutes, using a large spatula to rotate the fillet once to get crisscross grill marks. (If your fish is thicker than 1 inch, give it 4 minutes on this side.) Don’t touch or move the fillet except when time to rotate or turn (again using a large spatula), because getting a good sear where the fish touches the grate is essential to help prevent sticking. If you get any resistance when you rotate the fish, reoil the grate. Gently turn the salmon skin side down and continue cooking for 5 to 6 minutes, until the skin is very dark and crisp. The salmon is done when just barely opaque, with a touch of darker translucence remaining at the center.
Toss the romaine in a large bowl with about ¼ cup of the dressing. Scatter the lettuce on a serving platter or in a large shallow bowl. Chop the salmon, discarding the skin, which will probably strip off the bottom in one large sheet. Scatter the salmon over the center of the romaine. To either side of the salmon, sprinkle rows or otherwise arrange the bacon, eggs, tomatoes, and avocados. Reheat the dressing briefly, just enough to warm it through and spoon as much as you wish over the salad, passing more on the side if you like. To serve, scoop up from under the lettuce and give everyone some of each ingredient, to mix together on the plate.
Chicken Cobb Salad Replace the salmon with 2 heaping cups simply seasoned diced grilled or smoked chicken. Add about ½ cup crumbled creamy blue cheese to the topping ingredients.
“I’ll have what he’s having!” Belly up to a chopped salad bar. Lay out fixings such as the ingredients in the last two salads in individual bowls. Add some other favorites like crumbled blue cheese and grated Parmesan, fruit chunks, and homemade croutons, so that guests can customize their collection of ingredients. Accompany with an array of breads in differing shapes and sizes, all piled attractively in baskets.
a College Graduation Celebration
Cava Sangria (page 75)
Asiago-Artichoke Dip (page 96) with flatbreads and crackers
Maine Lobster Steam (page 255)
Vegetable Riot Salad or a chopped salad bar
Creamy Chesapeake Corn (page 484)
Peanut Butter-Chocolate Pudding Parfaits (page 525)
A different take on the chopped salad, this is a spirited jumble of veggies bathed in a citrus and mustard vinaigrette. Once you have the idea, add or subtract vegetables from the mixture, depending on the season and your whims. We like a sprinkling of crumbled queso fresco, cotija cheese, or feta when we serve this as a main dish, but we skip that touch when the salad goes on the side.
COOKING METHOD | GRILLING
Serves 6 as a main dish, 8 as a side dish
2 large red or orange bell peppers or 1 of each
1 medium red onion, cut into ⅓-inch-thick rounds
2 zucchini, about 6 ounces each, cut lengthwise into ⅓-inch-thick slices
6 red-ripe plum tomatoes, halved lengthwise
2 small heads of radicchio, quartered through the stem end
Vegetable oil
Coarse salt, either kosher or sea salt
Dressing
½ cup vegetable oil
2 tablespoons dark sesame oil
1 tablespoon mild-flavored honey
1 tablespoon whole grain mustard, preferably, or Dijon mustard
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
2 tablespoons fresh orange juice Coarse salt, either kosher or sea salt
About 4 cups torn romaine
⅓ cup pepitas (hulled pumpkin seeds) or sunflower kernels
About ½ cup crumbled queso fresco, cotija cheese, or feta cheese, optional
Brush the vegetables with oil. Sprinkle salt on all but the peppers (which will be peeled later).
Fire up the grill, bringing the temperature to medium (4 to 5 seconds with the hand test).
Grill the vegetables uncovered, in batches if necessary. (In that case, start with the bell peppers, which need time to steam after they come off the grill.) Cook the bell peppers until the skin blackens and blisters and they soften somewhat, about 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer the peppers to a plastic bag to steam until they are cool enough to handle. Grill the onions for 15 to 18 minutes, the zucchini for 10 to 12 minutes, and the tomatoes and radicchio for 5 to 7 minutes (or until soft with a few brown edges). Turn the bell peppers on all sides and the onions, zucchini, radicchio, and tomatoes so they face the fire twice on each side.
When the peppers are cool, peel them, then dice them into bite-sized pieces. Dice the onions, zucchini, and tomatoes, too. Toss the vegetables and their juices all together in a large bowl and chill for at least 30 minutes. (The vegetables can be prepared to this point up to several days ahead, covered, and refrigerated.)
Prepare the dressing, whisking the oils and honey together in a small bowl. Then add the remaining ingredients. Toss as much of the dressing as you wish with the vegetables.
Arrange the romaine on a platter, then spoon the mixed vegetables over it, Scatter pepitas and the cheese, if desired, over the salad and serve.
Grilled Bread Salad with Chopped Vegetables Reduce the quantity of vegetables for grilling to about 2 pounds. Along with the vegetables, grill 1 pound of country bread, sliced 1 inch thick. Toast it just long enough to color lightly on both sides and get lightly crisp. Cut the bread into 1-inch cubes. Toss the bread with the remaining salad ingredients just before serving, so that the bread provides a mix of textures, alternately chewy, crispy, and creamy.
We make all kinds of grilled chicken salads, depending on what’s in the fridge and pantry, but we usually head in this direction when we’re entertaining. We pound our breasts until thin, to expose lots of surface to the flame, and dress them lightly to avoid masking the grilled flavor. Smoked almonds (store-bought are OK here) enhance the outdoor character, and some ginger adds sweetness and a touch of heat.
COOKING METHOD | GRILLING
Serves 6 as a main dish
1½ pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts, gently pounded to ¼-inch thickness
Vegetable oil spray
Coarse salt, either kosher or sea salt
Dressing
½ cup fresh orange juice
cup plus 2 tablespoons mayonnaise 2 tablespoons chopped crystallized ginger
2 tablespoons chopped smoked almonds 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
Coarse salt, either kosher or sea salt, to taste
⅓ to ½ cup smoked almonds, chopped
2 large celery ribs, very thinly sliced
⅓ cup golden raisins
¼ cup minced onion
About 4 cups crisp salad greens
Fire up the grill, bringing the temperature to medium (4 to 5 seconds with the hand test).
Spray the chicken with oil, then sprinkle with salt.
Grill the chicken uncovered over medium heat for 4 to 5 minutes total. Turn onto each side twice, rotating the breasts each time to get crisscross grill marks. The chicken is ready when white with brown markings and just firm to the touch. While the chicken cools, make the dressing.
Combine the dressing ingredients in a blender.
Cut the chicken into neat bite-sized pieces. Toss in a bowl with the almonds, celery, raisins, and onion, and enough dressing to coat the mixture well. Chill for at least 30 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, serve over greens.
Chicken Salad Sandwiches If you want your salad in a sandwich, make the dressing thicker. Replace 2 tablespoons of the orange juice with another 2 tablespoons mayonnaise.
Tea smoking is most effective in a smoker powered by something other than wood as its main fuel. Too much smoldering wood competes with the tea and other flavors perfuming the food. If a wood-burning pit is your only option, use fruitwood if possible and double the amount of tea and aromatics.
We simplify (but don’t diminish) the Chinese tradition of tea smoking by using a backyard smoker instead of a wok. Simplifying further, we substitute chicken for the usual duck, which requires something like a twelve-step program for preparation. Guests will assume you labored long and hard over this, a perception you’re not required to correct.
COOKING METHOD | SMOKING
Serves 6 as a main dish
4 large boneless, skinless chicken breasts, 8 to 10 ounces each, pounded to ½-inch thickness
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
5 tablespoons black or Darjeeling tea leaves
Three 3-inch cinnamon sticks
Peel of 1 tangerine or small orange, in large sections
2 star anise
Five-Spice Vinaigrette
¾cup vegetable oil
1½ teaspoons dark sesame oil
3 to 4 tablespoons rice vinegar 2 tablespoons fresh orange juice
2 teaspoons soy sauce, or more to taste
1½ teaspoons five-spice powder
2 small heads of butter lettuce, torn
1½ cups tangerine or small orange segments
1 cup halved lychees, fresh if available, or halved seedless grapes
¼cup thinly sliced scallion greens
Coat the chicken breasts lightly with the soy sauce and oil and let them sit at room temperature for about 20 minutes.
Fire up the smoker, bringing the temperature to 200°F to 250°F.
Wrap the tea leaves, cinnamon, tangerine peel, and star anise loosely in a foil pouch. Poke holes in the pouch and place it directly over the smoker’s heat source.
Transfer the chicken to the smoker and cook for about 20 to 25 minutes, or until white throughout but still juicy. When cool enough to handle, wrap the chicken in plastic and chill it in a single layer for at least 30 minutes.
Prepare the vinaigrette. Whisk the oils, 3 tablespoons vinegar, orange juice, soy sauce, and five-spice powder together in a small bowl. Add more rice vinegar for more acid or more soy sauce if the dressing needs salt.
Cut the chicken across the grain into ¼- to ½-inch slices.
Place the lettuce in a salad bowl, toss with about two-thirds of the dressing, and divide among plates. Arrange the portions of chicken over the lettuce, then scatter with tangerines, lychees, and scallion greens. Drizzle with more dressing if you like and serve.
Some years ago, we took this traditional dish, common to the shared border region near El Paso and Juarez, and turned it into a barbecued preparation for our book Smoke & Spice (revised edition, 2003). That’s great if you have a day to devote to smoking, but here we return to the more customary pot-boiling method, which allows you to finish the meat in a few hours with very little attention. The smoked chiles called chipotles add a hint of smoke to the dish without the need for a log fire. Shred the brisket while warm, then toss with an array of cool salad ingredients for an appealing contrast in temperatures and textures.
COOKING METHOD | BIG-POT BOILING
Serves 8 or more as a main dish
One 3½- to 4-pound fully trimmed beef brisket, often called the flat cut 2 quarts beef stock or half beef and half chicken
2 teaspoons salt, or a bit more if the
stock is unsalted or lightly salted
1 large onion, chopped
3 to 4 plump garlic cloves, chopped
2 canned chipotle chiles
1 heaping teaspoon black peppercorns
Salpicón Dressing
½ cup flavorful olive oil
¼cup fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon ketchup
2 canned chipotle chiles, minced, plus 2 tablespoons or more adobo sauce from the can
1 plump garlic clove, minced
Salt to taste
Large romaine leaves, optional
4 to 5 red-ripe plum tomatoes, diced, or a couple good-sized handfuls of halved cherry tomatoes or other tiny tomatoes
¼ pound Monterey Jack, Chihuahua, or asadero cheese, diced
¼ pound mild Cheddar cheese, diced
1 medium red onion, finely diced
About 6 large radishes, halved, then sliced into thin half-moons
About ½ cup lightly packed fresh cilantro leaves, lightly chopped if you wish
In a large stockpot or other large, sturdy pot, combine the brisket with the stock, salt, onion, garlic, chipotles, and peppercorns. Bring to a full rolling boil over high heat, skimming off any foam. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 3¼ to 3½ hours, until the meat shreds very easily. Turn off the heat and let the meat sit in the cooking liquid for about 30 minutes. Reserve 2 tablespoons of the cooking liquid, drain off the rest, and, if you like, save it in the refrigerator for a few days for a soup or stew. When the brisket is cool enough to handle, pull it apart into shreds. (The dish can be made ahead to this point and refrigerated for up to a couple of days. Warm the meat wrapped in foil in the oven before proceeding.)
a Celebration of Dies y Seis, Mexican Independence Day, September 16
Guacamole, salsa, and chips
Simmered Brisket Salpicón (page 452)
Chile Rellenos (page 411)
Black beans Paletas (page 512)
Flan (page 520)
Prepare the dressing, whisking the ingredients with the reserved cooking liquid in a small bowl.
Mix the brisket with about two-thirds of the dressing. If you wish, lay romaine leaves on a platter as a base for the salad. Arrange the brisket on top, then scatter with the remaining ingredients. Drizzle more dressing over the top and serve.
Simmered Flank Steak Salpicón Some cooks like to replace the brisket with flank steak, which will shred with the grain into similar succulence. Cook just one of about 1¾ to 2 pounds for a salad of half the size or use a pair of steaks to equal the amount of brisket. The cooking time will be approximately half that of brisket, whether you use one or two flank steaks.
Simmered Brisket Salpicón, Appetizer Style With minor modifications, salpicón makes a great hearty snack with drinks. Cut or shred everything just a bit smaller than bite size, then serve with tortilla chips for scooping up the salad.
Don’t limit salads to women’s lunches. Especially on warm days or evenings, everyone can appreciate a salad if it’s not overly delicate or fussy. Simmered Brisket Salpicón and the following Bar-B-Q Salad with Bar-B-Q Ranch Dressing are the kinds of dishes that appeal to almost any hearty eater. We’d serve a generous bread basket on the side and make dessert a tray of passed bar cookies, brownies, and fruit slices so that everyone leaves full and satisfied.
Another serious meat salad, this is loaded with down-home appeal. It’s also a leftovers specialty, requiring only a few handfuls of barbecued pork, which we always save for such dishes when we do any serious smoking. If you’re lucky enough to live in an area with barbecued pork restaurants, you can also substitute store-bought meat.
COOKING METHOD | BARBECUE SMOKING
Serves 6 as a main dish
Bar-B-Q Ranch Dressing
1 cup favorite ranch dressing
2 tablespoons tomato-based barbecue sauce, such as Genuine Kansas City Barbecue Sauce (page 50)
1 head of crisp iceberg lettuce, cut into 6 wedges
3 cups barbecued pulled pork, such as Pulled Pork Butt (page 328) or Memphis in May Whole Hog (page 325), chilled but not icy cold
1½ cups corn chips
¾ cup grated pepper Jack or Monterey Jack cheese
2 red-ripe medium to large tomatoes, diced
½ cup mild-flavored pitted black olives, sliced
Prepare the dressing, mixing together the ingredients in a bowl.
Arrange a wedge of lettuce on each plate, then scatter pork over the lettuce, mounding it up a bit over the wedge. Spoon 2 to 3 tablespoons of dressing over the pork on each plate. Scatter around each plate a portion of the corn chips, followed by the cheese, tomatoes, and olives. Serve right away.
We’re always stunned to hear folks say they or their spouses or kids won’t eat leftovers. We love leftovers, so we can turn them into another dish as tasty as the original. Here are a few ideas for salads that should appeal to the most finicky family members. Use them as a springboard for your own creative thoughts.
* Smoked Turkey (page 292), mixed with green apple chunks, red grapes, toasted pecans, and mayonnaise
* Korean Grilled Sirloin (page 369), in thin strips, mixed with store-bought kimchi over a bed of napa or savoy cabbage shreds
* Tomato-Rubbed Chicken (page 281), diced, mixed with couscous, olive oil, and vinegar, and stuffed into plump hollowed-out tomatoes
* Grilled Glazed Mushrooms (page 440), tossed with chilled steamed green beans, celery thinly sliced on the diagonal, red bell pepper strips, grated Parmesan, and a simple oil and balsamic vinegar dressing
* Double-Smoked Ham (page 344), cubed and mixed with chilled cooked black-eyed peas, diced mild Cheddar, cooked macaroni, a splash of pepper vinegar, and a mustardy vinaigrette
* Flaked smoked trout mixed into Celery Root Rémoulade (page 478).
We grill the corn and spicy sausages here to make maque choux, a Cajun creation zipped up with peppers and onions. It’s usually served warm as a side dish, but we chill this salad version and sometimes offer it as a main dish.
COOKING METHOD | GRILLING
Serves 6 as a main dish, up to twice as many as a side dish
6 uncooked andouille sausages or other uncooked spicy sausages, 5 to 6 ounces each
6 medium ears corn, husks and silk removed
Corn oil or other vegetable oil
Coarse salt, either kosher or sea salt
1 large red bell pepper, diced cup diced green bell pepper
¼ cup minced onion
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon corn or vegetable oil
¼cup cider vinegar or white vinegar
½ teaspoon Tabasco or other Louisiana hot sauce, or more to taste
Amaze your friends by serving them salads in crunchy cheese bowls. Based on Italian fricos, they look as complex and difficult as an ice sculpture but are actually easy to master. You need a nonstick griddle or nonstick skillet, about nine inches across, and an upside-down drinking glass-say an iced-tea tumbler-about three inches in diameter and at least six inches tall. Finely grate a half cup per bowl of semihard or hard cheese, such as inexpensive Parmesan, Montasio, or sharp Cheddar. Warm the griddle over medium-high heat and sprinkle the cheese in a lacy circle about nine inches across. When the cheese has warmed and just begun to color, remove it with a spatula, immediately center it above the overturned glass, cooked side down, and drape it over. When it cools, a matter of seconds, turn the bowl right side up and make as many more as you wish. This is particularly tasty with Andouille and Corn Maque Choux Salad, Simmered Brisket Salpicón (page 452), and Pasta Salad with Grilled Peppers and Other Goodies (page 462).
Fire up the grill for a two-level fire capable of cooking first on high (1 to 2 seconds with the hand test) and then on medium (4 to 5 seconds with the hand test).
Arrange the andouille over the hot fire and grill uncovered for about 4 minutes, rolling it on all sides. Move the sausages to medium heat and continue cooking for about 12 to 16 more minutes, again rolling on all sides. The sausages are ready when brown, crisp, and completely cooked through. Peek with a small knife cut.
Cook the corn over the medium fire along with the sausages if you have room; otherwise grill it after the sausages are done. First coat the corn lightly with oil, using a couple of tablespoons of the oil, then salt the ears. Grill the corn uncovered over medium heat for 20 to 22 minutes, turning it on all sides to cook evenly and brushing with more oil after about 10 minutes. This is longer than technically necessary to cook the corn but allows the kernels to brown in spots and develop a more outdoorsy flavor.
When the andouille and corn are cool enough to handle, cut the andouille into thin half-moons and slice the corn kernels from the cobs. Mix the sausage and corn kernels together in a large bowl. Stir in the red and green bell pepper and the onion. Whisk the corn oil with the vinegar, hot sauce, and salt to taste. Stir this dressing with the salad and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to all day. Correct the seasoning before serving. If chilled much more than 30 minutes, let the salad sit for at least 15 minutes at room temperature before serving so that the sausage isn’t ice cold.
A tabboulehlike grain salad is piled over lean lamb loin slices in this Middle Eastern-inspired preparation. Bulgur works well for entertaining since it’s widely available at affordable prices but still uncommon enough to seem a bit exotic
COOKING METHOD | GRILLING
Serves 6 to 8 as a main dish
1 cup fine bulgur wheat
½ teaspoon salt, or more to taste
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 to 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
½ cup minced fresh parsley, preferably flat-leaf
½ cup minced fresh mint
½ cup minced fresh cilantro
⅔ cup chopped dried apricots, soaked if leathery
Coarse salt, either kosher or sea salt
1¼ to 1½ pounds boneless lamb sirloin or leg in one chunk, about 1½ inches thick
½ cup pistachio nuts or pine nuts, toasted
Pour the bulgur into a large bowl. Cover it with about a quart of very hot water. Let the wheat sit for 15 to 30 minutes until tender, then drain off excess water. Squeeze with your fingers and blot with paper towels to eliminate additional moisture. Sprinkle with the salt and mix with the olive oil and lemon juice. Toss with the parsley, mint, and cilantro, then stir in the apricots. Cover and refrigerate.
Fire up the grill for a two-level fire capable of cooking first on high heat (1 to 2 seconds with the hand test) and then on medium heat (4 to 5 seconds with the hand test).
Salt the lamb. Grill it uncovered over high heat for 5 to 6 minutes, turning once. Move the lamb to medium heat, turning again, and continue grilling for 10 to 14 minutes, for rare to medium-rare. Turn at least two more times, more often if juices begin to pool on the surface.
Tent the lamb with foil and let it sit for about 10 minutes. Cut the warm lamb into very thin slices across the grain and arrange the slices in a spiral on each person’s plate. Spoon a mound of the bulgur salad in the center of each plate, leaving some of the lamb visible underneath. Sprinkle each portion with some of the pine nuts and serve.
Couscous Salad with Lamb and Lots of Herbs Couscous makes a good and tasty variation on the salad. Skip the preparation step used for the bulgur. Bring 2 cups lightly salted water to a boil in a saucepan, then stir in 2 cups quick-cooking couscous, cover, and let steam for 5 to 10 minutes. Fluff and continue with the recipe.
Peaches and other fruits kissed with fire soften and caramelize a bit, bringing out a natural sweetness that mates well with spinach. Try to avoid the nearly flavorless baby spinach rampant in supermarkets today in favor of leaves with a bit of character, like crinkly savoy spinach. For a little more heft, add slivers of prosciutto or country ham or crispy fried pancetta to the salad.
COOKING METHOD | GRILLING
Serves 4 to 6 as a main course, 6 to 8 as a side dish
6 large ripe but not overly soft peaches, peeled, halved, and pitted
¼ cup fruit vinegar or fruit-infused vinegar, such as raspberry
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons walnut, manadamia nut, or vegetable oil
2 teaspoons sugar
About 1½ pounds spinach
⅓ cup sliced almonds, toasted
Place the peach halves cut side up in a shallow dish. Whisk the vinegar and oil together in a small bowl and pour over the peaches, letting some collect in the hollows of the peach halves. Sprinkle the peaches very lightly with sugar. Let them sit uncovered.
Fire up the grill, bringing the temperature to medium (4 to 5 seconds with the hand test).
Drain the liquid from the peaches into a large salad bowl. It will become the dressing for the salad.
Grill the peach halves uncovered over medium heat for about 6 to 8 minutes, turning once, until somewhat softened with a few caramelized edges.
When cool enough to handle, slice the peaches as neatly as can be managed, adding any accumulated juice to the bowl with dressing. Place the spinach in the bowl and toss with the dressing. Arrange a bed of spinach on each plate. Scatter peach slices equally over the spinach and top with almonds. Serve.
We cook tuna for this salad a bit differently than our other tuna steaks, because the center should stay decidedly cool and red in this case. Start with the best and freshest yellowfin tuna you can find. You can add extra crunch with a cascade of sesame seeds, a handful of wasabi-coated peas, or even some retro chow mein noodles. If you have wasabi-flavored oil, drizzle it around the salad plates for a little extra zip.
COOKING METHOD | GRILLING
Serves 6 as a main dish
Three 10- to 12-ounce yellowfin (ahi) tuna steaks, 1¼ to 1½ inches thick
Marinade and Dressing
½cup plus 2 tablespoons soy sauce
¼ cup vegetable oil
¼cup plus 2 tablespoons rice vinegar 1 tablespoon dark sesame oil
1 tablespoon packed brown sugar
2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger 1 plump garlic clove, minced
Asian Slaw
4 lightly packed cups thinly sliced Napa cabbage or a combination of Napa cabbage and bok choy or other Asian greens
½ pound snow peas, sliced into thin julienne
2 medium carrots, shredded
2 large scallions, limp green ends trimmed, cut into 2-inch sections and then thin julienne
Black or white sesame seeds, wasabi-coated peas, or chow mein noodles
Radish, broccoli, or other small delicate sprouts
Trim any dark sections from the tuna steaks. Place them in a large zippered plastic bag.
Prepare the marinade. Whisk the ingredients together in a medium bowl. Set aside about one-third of the marinade to use as the dressing. Pour the remaining two-thirds over the tuna steaks, seal, and toss back and forth to coat evenly. Refrigerate for 25 to 30 minutes, turning once.
Fire up the grill, bringing the temperature to high (1 to 2 seconds with the hand test).
Drain the tuna, discarding the marinade. Pat the surfaces dry with paper towels. Transfer the chilled tuna steaks to a well-oiled grate and grill uncovered for 2½ to 3 minutes per side, until the surface is seared but the center is still distinctly red and cool. If there is any resistance when you turn the fish, reoil the grate. Stash in the freezer to cool while you assemble the other ingredients.
Toss together the cabbage, snow peas, carrots, and scallions with the reserved marinade and arrange the vegetables equally on plates. The vegetables will be lightly dressed. Cut the tuna across the grain into ¼- to ½-inch-thick slices and arrange portions neatly over the vegetables. Scatter with sesame seeds, then top with a few sprouts and serve.
Seared Sirloin Salad over Asian Slaw Substitute 3 sirloin steaks for the tuna, but slice them ¼ to ⅓ inch thick before cooking. To the portion of the marinade that goes over the steaks, add 1 packed tablespoon brown sugar. Use a small-mesh grill rack for easier cooking if you wish. Grill over the hot fire for a briefer period, about 1½ minutes per side. Serve over the cabbage slaw as directed.
Few foods can be smoked and on the table as quickly as trout. It’s perfect for a smoker that fires up quickly, such as an electric water smoker or an indoor stovetop smoker. This isn’t any more challenging than other salads, but it has a touch of elegance that’s nice for a special occasion.
COOKING METHOD | SMOKING
Serves 6 as a main dish
Four 8- to 10-ounce trout, gutted and butterflied, or skin-on trout fillets
Vegetable oil
Juice of 1 large lemon
Coarse salt, either kosher or sea salt, and freshly ground black pepper
8 cups lightly packed watercress or other peppery green like arugula
About 3 tablespoons walnut oil
About 2 teaspoons white wine vinegar or red wine vinegar
⅓ cup shredded radishes
½ cup chopped walnuts, toasted
Fire up the smoker, bringing the temperature to 200°F to 250°F.
Spray or rub the trout with a thin coat of oil. Drizzle with lemon juice and sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Transfer the trout to an oiled small-mesh grill rack. If working with whole trout, lay them open, like a book you are reading. Place the rack with the fish in the smoker. Cook the trout until opaque and easily flaked, 30 to 45 minutes, depending on size. Chill for at least 30 minutes, then slice the trout into bite-sized squares, discarding the skin.
Your Parents’ Anniversary Party
Salmon-Caviar Dip (page 95) with crackers and cucumber slices
A Choice of Smoked Trout with Watercress and Walnuts or Smoked
Prime Rib with Henry Bain Sauce (page 358 with Crispy Smashed
New Potatoes (page 489) and green beans sautéed in butter
Berries with Champagne Syrup (page 517)
Cupcakes decorated by your kids for Grandma and Grandpa
Arrange a portion of trout squares over each plate in something of a circle near the outside edge.
Toss the watercress with enough walnut oil to make it glisten in a bowl. Add just enough vinegar to balance the oil, then toss again with the radishes and some salt and pepper. Mound portions over each plate of trout, then scatter with walnuts and serve.
This salad provides a way to stretch delicious but pricy soft-shell crabs, usually found fresh from about April Fool’s Day to Labor Day and frozen the rest of the year. The romaine, celery, and bacon all add extra crunch to complement the crispy crabs.
COOKING METHOD | GRILLING
Serves 6 as a main dish
¼ cup Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
6 soft-shell crabs, at least 3 ounces each
Tarragon Vinaigrette
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1½ to 2 tablespoons tarragon-flavored white wine vinegar
Coarse salt, either kosher or sea salt, to taste
About 7 cups romaine ribbons
2 to 3 tablespoons fresh tarragon leaves, optional
1 large celery rib, very finely sliced
6 bacon slices, chopped and cooked crisp
1 large ripe avocado, peeled, pitted, and diced
Mix together the mustard and oil and smear it over the crabs. Cover the crabs and let them sit at room temperature.
Prepare the vinaigrette, whisking the ingredients together in a small bowl. Reserve.
Fire up the grill, bringing the temperature to high (1 to 2 seconds with the hand test).
Transfer the crabs to a well-oiled grate. We start them shell side up but haven’t found much difference if you want to reverse that. Grill uncovered for 3 to 4 minutes, turning once. The crab bodies are full of moisture, so watch out for possible popping while they cook. The crabs are ready when the shells turn burnished red and the crabmeat is opaque when poked into at a joint. The legs should get dark and crunchy but not blacken.
Give the vinaigrette another stir, then toss about three-quarters of it with the romaine and the tarragon if you’re using it in a large bowl. With tongs, arrange the greens on dinner plates. Arrange a crab on each plate, then scatter with celery, bacon, and avocado. Drizzle a little more dressing over each crab and serve right away.
Mussels perk right up and pop right out of their shells after a short bath in smoke. Be sure to cook them the day you bring them home. We brighten this salad with lots of lemon juice, a good sparkle of olive oil, and many flecks of cilantro. It looks a little like ceviche and is pretty served in goblets or glass bowls.
COOKING METHOD | SMOKING
Serves 6 as a main dish
Mussel Mop
One 6-ounce bottle clam juice
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
About 12 ice cubes
5 to 6 dozen mussels in their shells
1 large sweet onion, diced
1 cup lightly packed fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems, plus leaves for garnish ½ cup extra virgin olive oil
2 red-ripe plum tomatoes, diced
2 large lemons, at room temperature Coarse salt, either kosher or sea salt Lemon-infused olive oil, optional
Fire up the smoker, bringing the temperature to 180°F to 220°F.
Prepare the mop, combining the ingredients in a small bowl.
Put the ice cubes in a smokeproof 8-inch-square or 9 × 12-inch baking pan or in a deep pie pan. Place the mussels in a shallow smokeproof dish large enough to hold them mostly in a single layer.
Place the dish of mussels over the pan of ice in the smoker as far from the fire as possible. Plan on a total cooking time of about 25 to 35 minutes. Drizzle some of the mop into the mussels that have opened after about 20 minutes.
While the mussels are smoking, soak the onion in ice water to cover for about 15 minutes. Drain the onion and transfer it to a large bowl.
The mussels are done when all or nearly all have opened and they are plump and juicy. Discard any mussels that haven’t opened within a couple of minutes of the rest of the batch. Drizzle the rest of the mop over all the mussels when they come off the smoker. When the mussels are cool enough to handle, pop them from the shells with a fork and transfer them and their juices to the bowl with the onion.
Place the cilantro in a food processor and chop finely. With the processor running, pour in the olive oil. Scrape the mixture into the mussels and add the tomatoes. Zest one of the lemons and set aside the strands of peel. Using a small sharp knife, peel off the white pith from both lemons. Using the same knife, slice along each of the lemon’s membranes to release all the sections of the fruit. Mix the sections and any juice with the mussel mixture, then salt to taste.
To assemble the salads, spoon equal portions into goblets or shallow bowls. If you wish, drizzle lemon oil over and around. Scatter a healthy amount of cilantro and the reserved lemon zest over the salads and serve.
So many bad versions of pasta salad exist that you might roll your eyes at the thought. Don’t. Charred bell peppers in hot colors, creamy mozzarella, chickpeas, a bit of salume, plenty of fresh basil, killer olive oil, and frilly pasta bow ties make this, like any good pasta, exciting beyond the sum of its parts. You can get most of the ingredients ready in advance, but it’s best to cook the pasta shortly before combining and serving. At the height of summer, we serve this garnished with little branches of tiny tomatoes.
COOKING METHOD | GRILLING
Serves 6 as a main dish, 8 as a side dish
3 large red bell peppers or 1 red, 1 orange, and 1 yellow
1 pound farfalle (bow ties) or orecchiette (ears), cooked al dente
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice, or more to taste
1½ cups cooked chickpeas, rinsed and drained
About 1 cup diced salami, mortadella, or pepperoni, optional
½ pound fresh mozzarella, diced, or mozzarella bocconcini, halved
About ⅓ cup torn fresh basil leaves
Coarse salt, either kosher or sea salt, and freshly ground black pepper
Fire up the grill, bringing the temperature to medium (4 to 5 seconds with the hand test).
Grill the peppers uncovered until soft, blackened, and blistered on all sides, about 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a plastic bag to steam until they are cool enough to handle.
When the peppers are cool, peel them. Rinse off your hands instead of the peppers as you rid them of the blackened skin. Slit each pepper down one side and remove the seeds and stems. Dice the peppers neatly to about half the size of the pasta bow ties or about the same size as the pasta ears.
Toss the pasta with the oil and lemon juice, then add the peppers and accumulated juices. Toss again with the chickpeas, salami if you’re using it, mozzarella, and basil and season rather assertively with salt and pepper. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature.
Shrimp shine in pasta preparations. They offer a tasty textural contrast, grill quickly, and look positively festive on the plate. In a shrimp pasta, we add very little cheese, and always choose a variety with a little age, such as ricotta salata, Parmesan, or grana. We love to add loads of lemon and garlic, though.
COOKING METHOD | GRILLING
Serves 6 as a main dish
Butter Sauce
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter
1 tablespoon flavorful olive oil 4 to 5 plump garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 to 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1¼ pounds medium to large shrimp (about 30 per pound), peeled and, if you wish, deveined
1 to 2 tablespoons flavorful olive oil
Juice of 1 lemon
Coarse salt, either kosher or sea salt
1 pound spaghettini or capellini, cooked until just tender
Several tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
About ¼ cup crumbled ricotta salata or grated Parmesan or grana cheese
Lemon wedges
Prepare the butter sauce, warming the butter and oil in a medium skillet over medium-low heat. Add the garlic and cook slowly until it just begins to color. Do not let the garlic color beyond the nutty, light golden stage or it can become bitter. Remove the garlic with a slotted spoon and reserve it, Stir the lemon juice into the warm butter sauce.
a Pasta Buffet for Friends
Garlic toast with Salsa Cruda (page 68)
Lemon-Grilled Shrimp over Garlicky Spaghettini
Penne with Sweet Italian Sausage and Mustard (page 465)
Couscous with Chicken and Caramelized Figs (page 464)
Grilled Pepper Platter (page 111)
Rainbow Fruit Parfaits (page 502)
If you grew up in this country a few decades ago, your early exposure to pasta-a term that no one ever used-was probably limited to elbow macaroni, spaghetti, and lasagne. German families had their spaetzle, and Polish and Ukrainian families enjoyed pierogi, but few Americans recognized that all these were part of the same worldwide family of pasta and noodles. None of us WASP kids ever saw an Asian noodle. Even Asian families looking to re-create heirloom dishes, unless they lived near a Chinatown, often used basic egg noodles or maybe linguine to suffice for the array of wheat, buckwheat, rice, and bean thread noodles known in their home countries. Now almost any supermarket in the country offers shelves full of all of these, and many more options, in dried, refrigerated, and frozen forms. The next time you’re shopping, take a few minutes to really explore this wide, wide world, and try a few unfamiliar varieties.
Toss the shrimp with the oil, lemon juice, and salt and let sit at room temperature.
Fire up the grill, bringing the temperature to high (1 to 2 seconds with the hand test).
Grill the shrimp uncovered on a well-oiled small-mesh grill rack for about 2 minutes per side, turning once. The shrimp are done when opaque, pink/white, and just firm with a few lightly browned edges.
Toss the pasta with the butter sauce. Arrange it on a plate or platter and scatter shrimp over the top with parsley, reserved garlic slices, and cheese. Serve hot, garnished with lemon wedges.
Almost instant pasta, couscous cooks quickly because of its tiny granular size. It also mates beautifully with many different ingredients, including chicken, mint, and figs in this case.
COOKING METHOD | GRILLING
Serves 6 as a main dish, 8 as a side dish
¾ to 1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts, pounded to Vfc-inch thickness
2 teaspoons flavorful olive oil
Coarse salt, either kosher or sea salt
12 plump fresh figs, halved lengthwise
About ½ cup mint beverage syrup
4 cups cooked, fluffed quick-cooking couscous
3 tablespoons flavorful olive oil
Grated zest and juice of 1 medium orange
Fresh mint sprigs, optional
Fire up the grill, bringing the temperature to medium (4 to 5 seconds with the hand test).
Rub the chicken with the oil, then sprinkle with salt, Dip the cut sides of the figs into the syrup.
Grill the chicken and figs uncovered. Cook the chicken for 10 to 12 minutes total. Turn onto each side twice, rotating the breasts a half turn each time to get crisscross grill marks. The chicken is ready when it’s white throughout but still juicy and the surface is nicely browned. Cook the figs for 5 to 7 minutes, turning once and basting with more syrup. The figs are ready when soft and oozing juice.
Stir the couscous, oil, orange zest, and juice together in a bowl. Cut the chicken into neat bite-sized cubes and stir it into the couscous. Spoon onto plates. Arrange fig halves on each, 4 for a main dish portion, 3 for a side dish portion. Serve garnished with mint sprigs if you wish.
Couscous with Lamb and Caramelized Figs Replace the chicken with about ¾ pound of compatibly flavored warm grilled lamb, cubed.
Penne makes great pasta on the fly for everyday eating but also dresses up smartly for a casual company supper. Here we mix it with grilled sausage and wilted greens flavored with garlic and mustard.
COOKING METHOD | GRILLING
Serves 6 as a main dish
a Snow Day Celebration Lunch
Ever notice how, when work and school get canceled because of snow. half the neighborhood’s outdoors anyway? Instead of bouncing off the walls yourself, dig out the grill and thrill everyone with a simple but special lunch. You’ll be a hero.
Minestrone, made with canned beans and the vegetables you have on hand
Penne with Sweet Italian Sausage and Mustard
Topless S’Mores (page 509)
1 pound fresh sweet Italian sausages
3 tablespoons flavorful olive oil
½ cup fresh country bread crumbs
4 cups tightly packed chopped mixed
cooking greens, such as collards, mustard, and chard, with the water that clings to them after washing
1 tablespoon chopped roasted garlic
¼ cup Dijon mustard
1 pound penne, cooked until just tender
About 3 tablespoons pasta water, white wine, or chicken stock
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, or more to taste
Fire up the grill for a two-level fire capable of cooking first on high heat (1 to 2 seconds with the hand test) and then on medium heat (4 to 5 seconds with the hand test).
Grill the sausages for a total of 16 to 20 minutes. First cook over high heat for about 4 minutes, rolling them to crisp on all sides. Move the sausages to medium heat and continue cooking for 12 to 16 minutes, until brown and thoroughly cooked but still juicy.
Pour 1 tablespoon of the oil into a medium saucepan and warm over medium heat. Stir in the bread crumbs and sauté briefly until golden brown and crisp. Scrape out onto a paper towel and reserve.
Wipe out the saucepan, add the remaining oil, and warm it over medium heat. Add the greens to the pan, cover, and let the mixture steam for 2 to 3 minutes, until wilted. Uncover and stir in the roasted garlic and mustard. Heat through and set aside.
Cut the sausages in half lengthwise, then slice into thin half-moons. Toss the pasta in a large serving bowl with the greens mixture and sausages. Add enough pasta water so that the sauce ingredients coat the pasta and it doesn’t seem dry. Trickle extra virgin oil over the top, then scatter with bread crumbs and serve from the bowl.
Warm Lentil Salad with Sweet Italian Sausage and Mustard Replace the pasta with French green lentils. Cook 2 cups of lentils according to the package directions. While still warm, mix in the rest of the ingredients.
Penne with Italian Sausage, Peppers, and Mustard Stretch the pasta to feed another person or two by mixing in a grilled red and a grilled orange bell pepper. Cut them into thin matchsticks, about the size of the penne, and stir in when you add the sausage.
It may sound strange, but this Memphis specialty wins converts quickly. Forget comparisons to anything Italian. The spaghetti (never called pasta!) is just a foil for the tangy barbecue sauce and smoky meat. An odd but delightful way to finish off barbecued pork leftovers.
COOKING METHOD | BARBECUE SMOKING
Serves 6 as a main dish
Memphis Barbecue Sauce
3 tablespoons butter, preferably unsalted
¼ cup minced onion 1 cup white or cider vinegar
1 cup tomato sauce
2 teaspoons sugar 1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Pinch or 2 of cayenne
About 2½ cups pulled or shredded barbecued pork, such as Pulled Pork Butt (page 328) or Memphis in May Whole Hog (page 325)
1 pound spaghetti, cooked until just tender
Chopped onion, hot red pepper flakes, and grated Parmesan cheese
Prepare the sauce, first melting the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the onion and sauté for 6 to 8 minutes, until the onion begins to turn golden. Mix in the remaining ingredients, reduce the heat to low, and cook until the mixture thickens, about 20 minutes.
When the sauce is ready, mix in the pork and heat through. Stir the spaghetti into the sauce and pork. Pour out into a large shallow bowl or onto a platter. Serve hot and pass small bowls of onion, hot pepper flakes, and Parmesan so that each diner can customize the spaghetti.
Barbecue Spaghetti, Five Ways This plays on a tradition from Cincinnati, where the local variety of chili is dressed with four possible accompaniments, making it a “five ways” dish. Here the barbecued pork replaces the chili as item number one. The spaghetti counts as two, and grated Cheddar cheese goes on as number three. Chopped onion boosts the options to four, and spoonfuls of long-simmered kidney or pinto beans round out the five.
One Fun and Funky Barbecue Party
Barbecue Spaghetti
Chicken on a Throne (page 270)
Barbecued Bologna Sandwiches (page 165)
Lexington Bed Coleslaw (page 476)
Store-bought southern-style peanut patties
Fried Oreos (page 518)
Big Red, RC Cola, Moxie, Blenheim, or other regionally popular sodas
Chow fun is one happy name for a noodle dish. Traditionally Cantonese, our version is a bit more relaxed in character than the original, closer to the whatever’s-on-hand style found in Hawaii. Silky broad rice noodles are the constant, punctuated here by bits of grilled pork, ham, and vegetables. Add or substitute at will, using smoked pork, grilled chicken, grilled flank steak, or anything else that arouses your appetite.
COOKING METHOD | GRILLING
Serves 6 as a main dish
2 pork loin chops, about ½ inch thick
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon packed brown sugar
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
One 8- to 9-ounce package ½-inch-wide rice noodles or other Asian noodles, preferably fresh, cooked until just tender
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger 1 garlic clove, minced
4 medium scallions, limp green ends trimmed, cut into 2-inch pieces and thinly sliced lengthwise
About 2 cups mixed vegetables, such as thinly sliced Napa cabbage, bok choy, celery, and cremini or shiitake mushrooms
¼ pound ham, cut into thin matchsticks
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons Chinese oyster sauce
Fire up the grill, bringing the temperature to medium (4 to 5 seconds with the hand test).
Place the pork chops on a plate, stir the soy sauce and brown sugar together, and rub the mixture on both sides of the chops with your fingers.
Grill the chops uncovered over medium heat for 7 to 9 minutes, turning to face the fire twice on each side and rotating a half turn each time for crisscross grill marks. Cool briefly, then slice into thin matchsticks, discarding any fat or bone.
Heat a wok or large heavy skillet over high heat. When hot, add the oil and swirl it around. Stir in the noodles, ginger, and garlic and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until the ginger and garlic are quite fragrant and the noodles browned in a few spots. Add the scallions and vegetables, continuing to stir, followed by the ham and grilled pork. When the vegetables have wilted or softened, stir in the soy sauce and oyster sauce and heat through. Serve warm.
The thick, garlicky Polish sausages called kielbasa usually come presmoked and fully cooked, so we grill them over steady medium heat rather than the two-level fire we use for thinner and uncooked sausages. We then cut them into rounds to serve with sauerkraut and pierogi, little pasta pillows usually found in the freezer sections of supermarkets.
COOKING METHOD | GRILLING
Serves 6 as a main dish
4 smoked, fully cooked kielbasa sausages, 6 to 8 ounces each
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ medium onion, minced
½ teaspoon caraway seeds, optional
½ pound sauerkraut, rinsed and drained but still moist
About 1 pound frozen potato-cheese pierogi, cooked according to package directions and tossed gently with 1 to 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ to 1 cup sour cream
Several tablespoons minced fresh chives
Fire up the grill, bringing the temperature to medium (4 to 5 seconds with the hand test).
Grill the sausages uncovered for 8 to 10 minutes, rolling on all sides, or until a bit crusty on the surface and hot throughout
Warm the butter in a large skillet over medium heat, either on the edge of the grill or on the stovetop. Stir in the onion and saute until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in the caraway seeds, if you’re using them, followed by the sauerkraut, and heat through.
Slice the sausages into ½-inch-thick rounds and toss with the sauerkraut mixture Divide the pierogi among plates, arranging them in something of a circle on each. Top with equal portions of the sausage and sauerkraut mixture. Garnish each with a dollop of sour cream and a sprinkling of chives and serve right away.
* High-quality extra virgin olive oil and an everyday flavorful olive oil
* Infused oils or other oils with distinctive flavors
* Unsalted butter (freeze it in well-wrapped sticks if you don’t use it often)
* Chunk of Parmesan
* Pesto, preferably homemade, or sun-dried tomatoes in oil, or both
* Several vinegars
* Dried pasta-at least a couple of workhorses like fettuccine and penne, plus Asian rice or wheat noodles
* Frozen ravioli or tortellini and pierogi
* Canned chickpeas, white beans, and black beans
* Asian fish sauce, anchovies in oil, or both
* Dijon mustard
* Mayonnaise
* Nuts (keep in the freezer if not used often)
* Bread crumbs or croutons
* Garlic
* Olives
* Lemons
* Cleaned greens (romaine and frisée keep better than most)
Call it a black-and-white party, but dress up the food instead of the people. Traditionally dyed with squid ink, the black pasta here contrasts boldly with seared but creamy scallops.
COOKING METHOD | GRILLING
Serves 6 as a main dish
24 large sea scallops, about 2 inches across, or 36 medium, about 1½ inches across
Flavorful olive oil
Coarse salt, either kosher or sea salt 1 pound black fettuccine, linguine, or spaghetti, cooked until just tender
Your best extra virgin olive oil
1 small red-ripe plum tomato, finely diced
2 tablespoons minced orange zest
Fire up the grill, bringing the temperature to high (1 to 2 seconds with the hand test). Place a small-mesh grill rack over the cooking grate if you wish and oil it well.
Pat the scallops dry if needed. Toss the scallops with the oil and salt to taste.
Grill the scallops uncovered over high heat for about 2 minutes per side, until just opaque and nicely marked by the grill.
Toss the pasta with the extra virgin oil and tomato in a large shallow bowl. Use enough oil to make the pasta really glisten. Using a large fork and spoon, twirl pasta into mounds or nests on each plate. Arrange the scallops (and any accumulated juices) over the pasta. Scatter with the orange zest and serve.
Colored pastas now go way beyond the basic black, green (from spinach), and red (from tomato or beet) varieties. When you want to offer something different, look at the growing number of pastas in rainbow colors-stripes, tie-dye style, speckles, and multiple patterns. For flavor as well as style, our favorites currently come from a San Francisco company, Cafferata (cafferata.com, 800-626-8115). Found in the refrigerated section of supermarkets, the bright bold all-natural colors immediately stand out. The fillings for stuffed pastas, such as ravioli and tortellini, may include mushroom, artichoke, green olive, butternut squash, and even a roasted corn, edamame, and ancho combo. With so much going on with the plate already, we add very little to make the dish special, usually just some simply grilled chicken or shrimp, good oil, and maybe a sprinkling of cheese or herbs.
This outdoor twist on a classic indoor dish always wows guests. The clams come out of the smoker in a matter of minutes, fragrant and perked up, a perfect crown for a mound of linguine.
COOKING METHOD | SMOKING
Serves 6 or more as a main dish
48 littleneck or cherrystone clams
Sauce
¼cup flavorful olive oil
6 plump garlic cloves, minced
2 large shallots, minced
⅔cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon lightly packed fresh thyme leaves
½ teaspoon hot red pepper flakes cups dry white wine, such as Pinot Grigio
1¼cup bottled clam juice or seafood stock
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
Coarse salt, either kosher or sea salt
1 pound linguine, cooked until just tender
¾ cup shelled baby peas, fresh or thawed frozen
Make sure the clams are clean inside and out. Soak in several changes of cold water if you have any doubts.
Fire up the smoker, bringing the temperature to 200°F to 250°F.
Prepare the sauce, first warming the oil in a skillet over low heat. Add the garlic and shallots and cook slowly until the garlic turns pale golden, about 4 minutes. Quickly stir in the parsley, thyme, and hot pepper, then pour in the wine and clam juice. Turn up the heat and simmer until the liquid is reduced by half. The mixture will be somewhat syrupy. Remove from the heat and stir in the extra virgin oil. Add salt to taste.
Arrange the clams in a single layer on a small-mesh grill rack or doubled sheet of heavy-duty foil. Poke some holes in the foil if you wish to improve smoke and air circulation, but don’t weaken the foil by piercing it too much. Smoke the clams until the shells pop open, 10 to 15 minutes. Discard any clams that don’t open within several minutes of the rest, as they may have died before cooking.
Pour juice from the clams and about 2 tablespoons of sauce into a large bowl with the linguine. Using a small sharp knife, slice between each clam’s shells on both sides to sever the connecting muscle. Twist the top shell off each clam and discard. Leave the clams in their bottom shells. Add any additional juice to the linguine. Stir the peas into the sauce and reheat it just briefly. Pour over the linguine and toss to combine. Using a large fork and spoon, twirl linguine into round nests in large shallow bowls. Top each with a portion of the clams on the half shell. Drizzle any remaining sauce from the bowl over the clams equally. Serve right away.
Calamari cooks in a flash over a hot fire. To fortify that fiery appeal, we add copious amounts of hot red pepper flakes to a marinara sauce that coats nests of fettuccine.
COOKING METHOD | GRILLING
Serves 6 as a main dish
2 pounds baby squid, about 3 inches long
Flavorful olive oil
Coarse salt, either kosher or sea salt
Bread Crumbs
½ cup fresh country bread crumbs
1 tablespoon flavorful olive oil
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 to 2 plump garlic cloves, slivered
2 to 3 teaspoons hot red pepper flakes
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons store-bought marinara sauce
1 pound fettuccine, cooked until just tender
Tangy green olives
Toss the squid together with enough oil to coat lightly, then sprinkle with salt.
Fire up the grill, bringing the temperature to high (1 to 2 seconds with the hand test). You may want to use a small-mesh grill rack over the cooking grate, depending on the size of the squid and the distance between the bars of your grate. If so, place the rack on the grate while you heat the grill and oil it just before you place the calamari on iL
While the grill heats, prepare the bread crumbs. Stir the crumbs with the oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Cook briefly, stirring occasionally, until the crumbs are toasty brown and crisp. Scrape out onto a paper towel so that they don’t continue to cook.
Grill the squid uncovered for 3 to 4 minutes, rolling the tube-shaped bodies on all sides. The squid will go from limp to firm and from translucent to bright white. Don’t overcook, or the calamari will quickly resemble rubber bands. Slice across the bodies into ¼-inch-thick rings.
Warm the extra virgin olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Stir in the garlic slivers and cook briefly until the garlic just begins to color. Stir in the hot pepper flakes and cook for about 10 seconds more before adding the marinara sauce, which will splatter a bit. Dunk the fettuccine into the sauce, turning to coat it. Using a large fork and spoon, twirl each portion of fettuccine into something of a round nest to mimic the shape of the squid rings. Arrange on plates or in broad shallow bowls. Scatter squid rings evenly over the plates of fettuccine. Spoon any sauce remaining in the skillet over the calamari. Sprinkle with bread crumbs, dot each plate with several olives, and serve immediately.
a Chinese Patio Buffet
Grilled Leg of Lamb with Chinese Seasonings (page 594)
Steamed white rice or Asian Rice Salad (page 482)
Smoked Shrimp Pot Stickers
Cucumber Relish (page 70)
Tea-Smoked Chicken Salad (page 451)
Grill-Roasted Fruit with Almonds (page 508)
Everyone loves Chinese pot stickers, particularly a homemade version that features smoked shrimp. The dish involves multiple steps, but each is quick and easy. When entertaining, we often serve these as part of a one-course Asian buffet, but they make a good starter or simple main course, too.
COOKING METHOD | SMOKING
Serves 4 as a main course, up to 8 as a starter or side dish
Chinese Seven-Spice Seasoning
2 tablespoons five-spice powder
2 tablespoons packed brown sugar
1½teaspoons garlic salt
1½ teaspoons ground ginger
For the smoker
10 ounces medium shrimp, peeled and, if you wish, deveined
Pot Sticker Sauce
½ teaspoon cornstarch
¾ cup chicken stock
2 tablespoons dry sherry
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon rice vinegar or white vinegar
½ cup chopped bok choy, Napa cabbage, or spinach
2 scallions, limp green discarded, chopped
2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger
1 garlic clove, minced
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon hoisin sauce or Plum-Hoisin Sauce (page 57)
¼ to ½ teaspoon Chinese chile or chile-garlic paste
1 egg white
2 dozen wonton wrappers, preferably round
2 tablespoons peanut oil
Thinly sliced scallion, optional
Fire up the smoker, bringing the temperature to 200°F to 250°F.
Combine the seasoning ingredients in a small bowl. Rub the shrimp with all but a tablespoon of the mixture and let them sit at room temperature for about 20 minutes.
Using an oiled small-mesh grill rack if you wish, transfer the shrimp to the smoker. Smoke them for 15 to 20 minutes, or until cooked through and lightly fragrant.
While the shrimp smoke, prepare the sauce. Combine the cornstarch with a tablespoon of the stock in a medium bowl. When combined, add the remaining stock, the rest of the sauce ingredients, and the remaining tablespoon of the seven-spice seasoning and reserve.
When cool enough to handle, transfer half of the shrimp to a food processor. Add the bok choy, scallions, ginger, garlic, soy sauce, hoisin sauce, chile paste, and egg white. Process until well combined. Chop the remaining shrimp somewhat finely by hand and stir into the filling. (The filling can be made a day ahead to this point, covered, and chilled. Return it to room temperature before proceeding.)
Place a heaping teaspoon of the filling in the center of a wonton wrapper, moisten the edges, and seal it in a half-moon shape. (Square wrappers can be folded into triangles.) Repeat with the remaining filling and wrappers.
Warm the peanut oil in a 12-inch skillet over high heat When very hot, add the pot stickers, reduce the heat to medium, and fry them just on one side for 2 minutes, or until the bottoms are deep golden brown. Give the sauce a stir and pour it over the pot stickers. Immediately cover the skillet and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook for 2 more minutes, then uncover again and raise the heat back to high. Cook for another minute or two, until the sauce is thick enough to cling to the pot stickers. Serve immediately with sauce, sprinkled with the scallion if you wish.
Smoked Chicken Pot Stickers Replace the shrimp with 10 ounces boneless, skinless chicken breasts or thighs. The chicken will require a longer smoking time, about 25 to 30 minutes.