Regent’s Park & Camden
Regent’s Park, Camden Market and Hampstead Heath should top your list for excursions into North London. Camden is a major sight with an intoxicating energy and brilliant nightlife, while Regent’s Park is an oasis of calm and sophistication amid the North London buzz. Meanwhile, Hampstead Heath offers you a glorious day out and an insight into how North Londoners spend their weekends.
Start your day with a morning exploration of Regent’s Park and the riveting ZSL London Zoo. In Camden Town, nibble your way around an eclectic variety of snacks at Camden Market. Further explore the markets before rewarding yourself with a delectable ice cream from Chin Chin Labs, or by sitting in the beer garden of the Edinboro Castle for an afternoon drink. For dinner, opt for Indian delights at Namaaste Kitchen or reel in some fish and chips at Hook Camden Town. The rest of the night is easily sewn up: Camden has some tremendous pubs and a glut of live-music options embracing most musical persuasions.
Shops on Camden High St | VALDIS SKUDRE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Getting There & Around
t For Regent’s Park, Baker St (on the Jubilee, Metropolitan, Circle, Hammersmith & City and Bakerloo Lines) is most useful. The best stations for Camden are Camden Town and Chalk Farm on the Northern Line. Hampstead is also on the Northern Line.
Walking TourHighlights of North London
Part of the appeal of North London is that it’s a great area to just wander – in parks, along canals, in markets. This itinerary takes in some of the most atmospheric spots, as well as the big-hitting sights. If you can, stay into the evening to enjoy Camden’s fantastic live-music scene.
Walk Facts
Start Madame Tussauds; tBaker St
End Lock Tavern; tChalk Farm
Length 3.8km; 2½ hours
1 Madame Tussauds
Make sure you pack your selfie stick for a chance to pause with your idols at this waxwork museum – there are plenty of personalities to admire, from past and current statesmen to sportspeople, actors, singers and movie characters.
2 Regent’s Park
Walk down Marylebone Rd, turn left onto York Gate and head into Regent’s Park – follow the shores of the boating lake to explore the most scenic parts of the park before crossing over towards the Broadwalk, the park’s main avenue.
3 London Zoo
Explore London’s famous zoo, where enclosures have been developed to be as close to the animals’ original habitats as possible – among the highlights are Penguin Beach, Tiger Territory, Butterfly Paradise, Gorilla Kingdom and Land of the Lions.
4 Views from Primrose Hill
Cross Regent’s Canal and make your way towards the top of Primrose Hill for fab views of London’s skyline. The park is very popular with families and picnicking revellers at the weekend.
5 Regent’s Canal
Head back down Primrose Hill and join the picturesque Regent’s Canal towpath for an amble towards Camden. The path is lined with residential narrow boats and old warehouses converted into modern flats. Leave the towpath when you reach Camden Lock and its market.
6 Camden Market
Browse the bags, clothes, jewellery and arts and crafts stalls of Camden’s famous market. There are three main market areas, but they all sell more or less the same things. Camden Lock Market is the original; push into Stables Market for more rummaging.
7 Restorative Drink
Settle in for a well-earned drink at the Lock Tavern – if the weather is good, sit on the roo!f terrace and watch the world go by. Check out what’s on in the evening too, as the pub hosts regular bands and DJs.
5Take a Break
Camden Market is packed full of takeaway stalls offering a dazzling array of world cuisines – from French crêpes to Chinese, Argentine grills and sushi, it’s all there. Those with a sweet tooth should make a beeline for Chin Chin Labs and its liquid-nitrogen ice creams.
1Sights
Sights
1Madame Tussauds MUSEUM
It may be kitschy and pricey, but Madame Tussauds makes for a fun-filled day. There are photo ops with your dream celebrity (be it Daniel Craig, Lady Gaga, Benedict Cumberbatch, Audrey Hepburn or the Beckhams), the Bollywood gathering (sparring studs Hrithik Roshan and Salman Khan) and the Royal Appointment (the Queen, Harry, William and Kate). Book online for much cheaper rates and check the website for seasonal opening hours. (
%0870 400 3000; www.madame-tussauds.com/london; Marylebone Rd, NW1; adult/child 4-15yr £35/30; 
h10am-6pm; tBaker St)
1Camden Market MARKET
Although – or perhaps because – it stopped being cutting-edge several thousand cheap leather jackets ago, Camden Market attracts millions of visitors each year and is one of London’s most popular attractions. What started out as a collection of attractive craft stalls beside Camden Lock on the Regent’s Canal now extends most of the way from Camden Town tube station to Chalk Farm tube station. (www.camdenmarket.com; Camden High St, NW1; h10am-6pm; tCamden Town, Chalk Farm)
1ZSL London Zoo ZOO
Established in 1828, this 15-hectare zoo is among the oldest in the world. The emphasis nowadays is firmly placed on conservation, education and breeding, with fewer animals and bigger enclosures. Highlights include Land of the Lions, Gorilla Kingdom, Tiger Territory, the walk-through In with the Lemurs and Butterfly Paradise. Feeding sessions and talks take place throughout the day. The zoo also organises various experiences, such as Keeper for a Day or sleepovers in the Bug House. (www.zsl.org/zsl-london-zoo; Outer Circle, Regent’s Park, NW1; adult/child £29.75/22; h10am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 5.30pm Mar & Oct, to 4pm Nov-Feb; 
c; 
g274)
North London Neighbourhoods
North London is a collection of small neighbourhoods, originally ancient villages that were slowly drawn into London as the metropolis expanded. It’s a very green area, home to some of the most wonderful park spaces in the city. Sights are pretty scattered in the northern half of the area, where you’ll need some leg power to explore hilly Hampstead and around. A walk along Regent’s Canal will link Regent’s Park, Camden and King’s Cross.
1Regent’s Park PARK
The most elaborate and formal of London’s many parks, Regent’s Park is one of the capital’s loveliest green spaces. Among its many attractions are London Zoo, Regent’s Canal, an ornamental lake, and sports pitches where locals meet to play football, rugby and volleyball. Queen Mary’s Gardens, towards the south of the park, are particularly pretty, especially in June when the roses are in bloom. Performances take place here in an open-air theatre (%0844 826 4242; www.openairtheatre.org; Queen Mary’s Gardens, Regent’s Park, NW1; hMay-Sep; c; tBaker St) during summer. (www.royalparks.org.uk; h5am-dusk; tRegent’s Park, Baker St)
1Primrose Hill PARK
On summer weekends, Primrose Hill park is absolutely packed with locals enjoying a picnic and the extraordinary views over the city skyline. Come weekdays, however, and there are mostly just dog walkers and nannies. It’s a lovely place to enjoy a quiet stroll or an alfresco sandwich. (tChalk Farm)
1Lord’s STADIUM
The ‘home of cricket’ is a must for any devotee of this particularly English game. Book early for the Test matches here, but cricket buffs should also take the absorbing and anecdote-filled 100-minute tour of the ground and facilities (online booking required). Tours take in the famous Long Room, where members watch the games surrounded by portraits of cricket’s great and good, and a museum featuring evocative memorabilia that will appeal to fans old and new. (%020-7616 8500; www.lords.org; St John’s Wood Rd, NW8; tours adult/child £20/12; h4-6 tours daily; tSt John’s Wood)
Walking along Regent’s Canal
The canals that were once a trade lifeline for the capital have now become a favourite escape for Londoners, providing a quiet walk away from traffic and crowds. You can walk from Little Venice to Camden in less than an hour; on the way, you’ll pass Regent’s Park, London Zoo, Primrose Hill, beautiful villas designed by architect John Nash as well as redevelopments of old industrial buildings into trendy blocks of flats. Allow 15 to 20 minutes between Camden and Regent’s Park, and 25 to 30 minutes between Regent’s Park and Little Venice. There are plenty of exits on the way and signposts all along.
Eating
5Hook Camden Town FISH & CHIPS £
In addition to working entirely with sustainable small fisheries and local suppliers, Hook makes all its sauces on-site and wraps its fish in recycled materials, supplying diners with extraordinarily fine-tasting morsels. Totally fresh, the fish arrives in panko breadcrumbs or tempura batter, with seaweed salted chips. Craft beers and fine wines are also on hand. (www.hookrestaurants.com; 65 Parkway, NW1; mains £8-12; hnoon-3pm & 5-10pm Mon-Thu, noon-10.30pm Fri & Sat, to 9pm Sun; c; tCamden Town)
Camden Market Snacks
There are dozens of food stalls at Camden Lock Market, courtesy of food collective KERB (MAP; www.kerbfood.com; Camden Lock Market; mains £6-8; hnoon-5pm; 
v; tCamden Town), and at Stables Market, where you can find virtually every type of cuisine, from French to Argentinian, Japanese and Caribbean. Quality varies but is generally pretty good and affordable, and you can eat on the large communal tables, or by the canal.
5Chin Chin Labs ICE CREAM £
This is food chemistry at its absolute best. Chefs prepare the ice-cream mixture and freeze it on the spot by adding liquid nitrogen. Flavours change regularly and match the seasons (spiced hot cross bun, passionfruit and coconut, for instance). Sauces and toppings are equally creative. Try the ice-cream sandwich if you can: ice cream wedged inside gorgeous brownies or cookies. (www.chinchinlabs.com; 49-50 Camden Lock Pl, NW1; ice cream £4-5; hnoon-7pm; tCamden Town)
5Manna VEGETARIAN ££
Tucked away on a side street, this upmarket little place does a brisk trade in inventive vegetarian and vegan cooking. The menu features mouth-watering, beautifully presented dishes incorporating elements of Californian, Mexican and Asian cuisine with nods to the raw-food trend. The cheesecake of the day is always a hit. (%020-7722 8028; www.mannav.com; 4 Erskine Rd, NW3; mains £8-15; hnoon-3pm & 6.30-10pm Tue-Sat, noon-7.30pm Sun; v; tChalk Farm)
5Namaaste Kitchen INDIAN ££
Although everything’s of a high standard, if there’s one thing you should try at Namaaste, it’s the kebab platter: the meat and fish coming off the kitchen grill are beautifully tender and incredibly flavoursome. The bread basket is another hit, with specialities such as spiced missi roti making a nice change from the usual naan. (%020-7485 5977; www.namaastekitchen.co.uk; 64 Parkway, NW1; mains £10.50-19; hnoon-3pm & 5.30-11pm Mon-Fri, noon-11pm Sat & Sun; v; tCamden Town)
Drinking
6Proud Camden BAR
Proud occupies a former horse hospital within Stables Market, with private booths in the old stalls, fantastic artworks on the walls (the main bar acts as a gallery during the day) and a kooky garden terrace complete with a hot tub. It’s also one of Camden’s best music venues, with live bands and DJs most nights (entry free to £15). (www.proudcamden.com; Stables Market, Chalk Farm Rd, NW1; h11am-1.30am Mon-Sat, to midnight Sun; tChalk Farm)
6Edinboro Castle PUB
Large and relaxed Edinboro offers a refined atmosphere, gorgeous furniture perfect for slumping into, a fine bar and a full menu. The highlight, however, is the huge beer garden, complete with warm-weather barbecues and decorated with coloured lights on long summer evenings. Patio heaters come out in winter. (www.edinborocastlepub.co.uk; 57 Mornington Tce, NW1; hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-10.30pm Sun; 
W; tCamden Town)
North London Sounds
North London is the home of indie rock, and many a famous band started out playing in the area’s grungy bars. You can be sure to find live music of some kind every night of the week. A number of venues are multi-purpose, with gigs in the first part of the evening (generally around 7pm or 8pm), followed by club nights beginning around midnight.
6Lock Tavern PUB
A Camden institution, the black-clad Lock Tavern rocks: it’s cosy inside, and there’s a rear beer garden and a great roof terrace from where you can watch the market throngs. Beer is plentiful here and it proffers a prolific roll call of guest bands and well-known DJs at weekends to rev things up. Dancing is encouraged. Entry is always free. (www.lock-tavern.com; 35 Chalk Farm Rd, NW1; hnoon-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat, to 11pm Sun; tChalk Farm)
Entertainment
3Jazz Cafe LIVE MUSIC
The name would have you think jazz is the main staple, but it’s only a small slice of what’s on offer. The intimate clublike space also serves up funk, hip-hop, R&B, soul and rare groove, with big-name acts regularly dropping in. Saturday club night is soul night, with two live sets from the house band. (%020-7485 6834; www.thejazzcafelondon.com; 5 Parkway, NW1; hlive shows from 7pm, club nights 10pm-3am; tCamden Town)
3KOKO LIVE MUSIC
Once the legendary Camden Palace, where Charlie Chaplin, the Goons and the Sex Pistols performed, and where Prince played surprise gigs, KOKO is maintaining its reputation as one of London’s better gig venues. The theatre has a dance floor and decadent balconies, and attracts an indie crowd. There are live bands most nights and hugely popular club nights on Saturdays. (www.koko.uk.com; 1a Camden High St, NW1; tMornington Cres)
3Cecil Sharp House TRADITIONAL MUSIC
If you’ve ever fancied clog stamping, hanky waving or bell jingling, this is the place for you. Home to the English Folk Dance and Song Society, this institute keeps all manner of wacky folk traditions alive, with performances and classes held in its gorgeous mural-covered Kennedy Hall. The dance classes are oodles of fun; no experience necessary. (www.cecilsharphouse.org; 2 Regent’s Park Rd, NW1; tCamden Town)
3Roundhouse CONCERT VENUE
Built as a railway repair shed in 1847, this unusual Grade II–listed round building became an arts centre in the 1960s and hosted legendary bands before falling into near-dereliction in 1983. Its 21st-century resurrection as a creative hub has been a great success and it now hosts everything from big-name concerts to dance, circus, stand-up comedy, poetry slams and improvisation. (www.roundhouse.org.uk; Chalk Farm Rd, NW1; tChalk Farm)
Shopping
7Stables Market MARKET
Connected to the Lock Market, the Stables is the best part of the Camden Market complex, with antiques, Asian artefacts, rugs, retro furniture and clothing. As the name suggests, it used to be an old stables complex, complete with horse hospital, where up to 800 horses (who worked hauling barges on Regent’s Canal) were housed. (www.camdenmarket.com; Chalk Farm Rd, NW1; h10am-6pm; tChalk Farm)
7Camden Lock Market MARKET
Right next to the canal lock, this is the original Camden Market, with diverse food stalls, ceramics, furniture, oriental rugs, musical instruments and clothes. (www.camdenmarket.com; 54-56 Camden Lock Pl, NW1; h10am-6pm; tCamden Town)