Shabbos and Holiday Meals
The Jewish holiday with the most impact on the culinary tradition is the weekly Sabbath, or Shabbos, which occurs fifty-two times a year. This day of rest is both joyful and solemn, devoted to worship, family, and fun. There are numerous rules in place—biblical in origin—to ensure that no work, including cooking, is conducted in the period between sundown on Friday and sundown on Saturday. This prohibition has had a strong influence on the kinds of foods that are prepared each week for Shabbos.
The Friday evening meal, marking the start of Shabbos, has always been a special event. In many German-Jewish households, the Friday night menu included dishes that were repeated on a weekly basis. Invariably, there was a fish course. Most of Germany does not border a sea, so a healthy trade in freshwater fish—both river and pond-raised—was developed over the centuries. In earlier periods, when fish became scarce, there were times when Jews and their Christian neighbors competed for the available supplies. This shortage contributed to the development of fish farms in the sixteenth century, utilizing man-made ponds.
Although gefilte fish—long associated with Jewish cuisine—originated in Germany, German Jews stopped eating it over a century ago. Carp, prepared in one of three different ways, became the standard Friday night fish of choice. Berches (or Barches), the German version of challah, was another Shabbos essential, as was wine, necessary for the blessing, the Kiddush. Another item that was generally on the menu for Friday night dinners was soup, and this almost always meant a soup based on beef broth. German-Jewish cookbooks published in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries could barely fathom a hearty and worthwhile broth that was made solely from chicken or vegetables. Recipes for chicken soup were certainly included, but they invariably had the addition of a piece of meat or bone (beef or veal).
Families generally saved the most precious ingredients for Friday night, as the meal needed to be more special than what they ate during the rest of the week. Preparations might have begun one or two days ahead. Many of the special foods from Friday evening’s meal would last into the week, with leftovers refabricated into subsequent meals such as Hoppel-Poppel, though they had to be perfect and freshly prepared on Friday afternoon. The main course might be a veal roast, a roast duck or goose, or the boiled beef remaining from the cooking of the soup, depending on a variety of factors, including season, availability, and affordability.
Keeping a kosher home has always been a demanding proposition requiring good organization. By the time the first Jewish cookbooks were published in nineteenth century Germany, the German-Jewish housewife had the added high standards of the Victorian era placed upon her. This meant she also had to follow the rigid, newly instilled rules about the protocol of housekeeping and entertaining, especially if she lived in a city. Those cookbooks laid out many rules in long chapters, much as cookbooks everywhere during this period did. This included such things as the setting of her dining table, the correct order of serving courses of a meal, how to conduct relationships with her household staff, and the proper behavior of her children. The table required stiff damask tablecloths, polished place settings, crystal glassware, fine porcelain, and silver candleholders, for a start. There might also be tea and coffee services, saltshakers for each place setting, fish forks, asparagus servers, and on and on. Modern life had become quite demanding and complicated. It helped when a family could afford plenty of servants or had daughters who were willing and able to participate, as it is unlikely that sons were ever expected to help with meal preparations. By every indication, the Jewish housewife expected that by sundown on Friday she would have changed out of her work clothes into suitable dress clothing and be ready to appear at the beautifully set dining room table as though it had all happened on its own.
Because the Jewish homemaker, now as then, may not do any kitchen work during the holy day of Shabbos (this includes lighting a stove or preparing food), the dishes eaten on Saturday at the main, midday meal must be prepared ahead of time. Baked dishes, whether casseroles, stews, or hearty soups, are prepared on Friday before sundown, then left to cook overnight in a low oven, either at home or, in previous generations, in the communal oven of the community’s baker. In Germany, oven-baked Shabbos dishes were sometimes called kugels (originally a German word meaning “ball,” referring to a round dish, then translated into Yiddish and used by Jews in Eastern Europe). But the more iconic name for these Shabbos dishes in Germany is Schalet with Charlotte as a variation. The Yiddish word Cholent, used in Eastern Europe, derived from Schalet and has the same meaning, though the ingredients may differ. Schalets evolved, as foods always do in a culture, with both sweet and savory variations. They were no longer exclusively Shabbos dishes and came to be used as dairy meals, to accompany meat meals, or as desserts. When the Shabbos dish is more like a soup than a stew, it is known as a Gesetzte Suppe (literally, “baked soup”), which is substantial enough to be a meal. Greenkern soup is the primary example.
The other outstanding holiday in terms of its culinary requirements and the resulting inventiveness is Passover. Interestingly, the German-Jewish cookbooks often referred to it as Ostern (Easter), but with the word Pesach (Passover) written in Hebrew letters in parenthesis! During the eight days of Passover, or Pesach, no leavened foods are permitted, which makes bread and most other baked goods off-limits. This ban on leavened baked goods commemorates the hasty biblical flight of the Jews out of Egypt—there was not even time for the bread to rise—and led to the unleavened bread called matzo, which has undergone its own evolution. In the Middle Ages and beyond, for example, it was made from barley, a more common and less expensive grain than wheat.
These dietary restrictions resulted in dishes that had little in common with what the Jews’ Christian neighbors ate during Easter, which often occurrs at the same time as Passover. The uses of matzo are both ingenious and numerous, and include everything from fancy tortes to hearty casseroles, dumplings, and fried breakfast omelets. These dishes are similar to Pesach foods from many other countries, but, as with the rest of the cuisine, they reflect the influence of the host culture. A few dishes that are unique to German-Jewish cuisine are Grimsele, a fritter made of matzo, raisins, and nuts and served with either a wine or fruit sauce, and Matze Kaffee, a Passover breakfast dish that is a combination of food and beverage.
Other holidays have specific references, as indicated in the headnote of the recipe. Usually they derive from some symbolic relationship to the meaning of the holiday. Since Rosh Hashanah is the beginning of a new year, and the desire is to have a sweet one, there are plenty of sweet cakes for that occasion.
Purim is the retelling of the story of Esther, a Jewish holiday with a bona fide villain, Haman. In about 500 BCE, the Jewish community in Persia was in danger of extermination from an instigator named Haman. He did not realize that King Ahasuerus’s wife, Queen Esther, was Jewish. When she discovered Haman’s conspiracy, she used her influence with the king to save her compatriots. There are various pastries that represent the wicked Haman, with hamantaschen (“Haman’s pockets”), from Eastern Europe probably the most widely known. Here we include Hamans, a baked sweet made of yeast dough in the shape of a man—the standard Purim pastry in Germany.
Hanukkah commemorates the story of the oil lamps that miraculously stayed lit for eight days when there was only enough oil for one day, which is the symbolism behind eating foods fried in oil. For Jews in Germany, one of the dishes most commonly eaten for Hanukkah was Krapfen, fried doughnuts. Another Hanukkah tradition was spice cookies, borrowed from Christian Germans, something eaten during the Christmas season.
This chapter presents our choices for holiday-related foods: those we think best represent this cuisine, selected for their uniqueness and delicious flavor. You will notice that half of the recipes in this chapter are for desserts and baked cakes. That is not an accident. Early German-Jewish cookbooks, like others of the Victorian era, are dominated by cakes. The other half of the chapter contains an assortment of savory dishes, from soups, fish, poultry, and meat to baked Schalets. And of course, the recipe for Berches, the German-Jewish ceremonial bread, is here as well.
Berches is the ceremonial bread of German Jews. This bread is blessed on Friday night every week to mark the beginning of Shabbos. Before baking, Jews traditionally break away a small piece of the dough and throw it into the fire as a sacrifice. Berches, like challah, is traditionally braided. There are various explanations for the symbolism of the braiding. By and large, Shabbos is a day of rest and the joining of the strands into a braid can be viewed as a symbol of peace and unity.
There are numerous interpretations of the name Berches. The word resembles the Hebrew word bracha, meaning blessing, which is the most frequent interpretation of where the name came from.
The name Berches leads us to another interesting reference. It derives from an old Teutonic German bread, which is braided to resemble the wild hair of the goddess Berchta. She was a fertility goddess and the bread was a sacrifice to her. Berches or Barches has a long tradition in Germanic lands, and perhaps the origins of the Jewish custom cannot be isolated.
Whether the name Berches derives from a Jewish or a Teutonic source, or both, we were excited to discover the existence of the bread for sale in two bakeries in Bamberg in 2013. This clearly is a remnant of former Jewish life. Remarkably, these bakeries, which once baked Berches every week for their Jewish customers, apparently never stopped. We are unsure how many other bakeries around Germany continue this practice.
Berches was served at the reception for the “Jüdisches in Bamberg” (Jewish in Bamberg) exhibition in 2013. When we expressed surprise, the museum’s director, Dr. Regina Hanemann, told us she had purchased the loaves from one of the two bakeries in the city that regularly bakes the bread. She mentioned that the baker who made these loaves was well aware of the Jewish origins, although the Jewish connection is not identified as such in the bakery, and most customers are unaware of it.
The day after the museum reception, we followed up on our Berches quest. We piled into Robert Zink’s car for the one-hour drive to Oberlauringen, where we met up with his mother, Emmy Zink, and a historian, Ilse Vogel, to visit Friedel Korten.
Friedel warmly welcomed our small entourage and graciously led us into the home she shares with her husband Harald. Their street is named for the Jews who had settled there in the eighteenth century when the local ruler invited them to become residents in order to act as his financiers. In 1907, Friedel’s grandfather bought their house from a Jewish family. She has lived in this house since her birth in the late 1930s, when it was still a Jewish neighborhood. Her family was influenced by the culture of their neighbors. Every Friday night, their Jewish neighbors ate the Berches they had baked for their Shabbos meal. Friedel’s mother learned how to make it from them and passed along that knowledge to her daughter. Over many years of baking this bread, Friedel has become a seasoned and expert Berches baker. In fact, a few years ago, during the thousand-year anniversary of this town, Friedel baked many loaves for the celebration. The Berches, and how it represented the former Jewish community, became an important element of the festivities.
Friedel baked Berches especially for our visit. We had a great deal to talk about, and to hear about from Friedel, and we listened intently to her stories as she did to ours. Then a young woman joined us and we were introduced to Shelley, her teenaged granddaughter. Shelley is American—in fact, she truly is on her father’s side, as he is Native American. We were fascinated to listen to this American girl conversing with her German grandmother in German with an American accent.
Friedel is someone who has not ignored the fate of her neighbors seventy years ago, when she was a child of four or five. The recipe her mother handed down to her, as naturally as she would have if it were a traditional German recipe, is a constant reminder of them and their fate. Here, in her neighborhood, where Jews were the majority, Friedel remembers that her family felt totally integrated. She is one of the only Germans we met for whom Jews are not an abstraction.
The Berches Friedel baked was beautifully braided, golden brown, and dotted with Mohn (poppy seeds). She uses potato in the dough, as we do. The bread was tender yet chewy, just as it is meant to be.
In New York, where there were probably a dozen or more bakeries making Berches for Friday night during the mid-twentieth century, no one bakes it anymore. People of German-Jewish background either bake their own (and that is probably an exceedingly small number) or they make their blessings with a thoroughly American-Jewish egg challah.
Berches
| MAKES 2 MEDIUM LOAVES OR 1 EXTRA-LARGE LOAF | P |
Berches, the braided ceremonial bread of German Jews, differs from challah, the ceremonial bread of Eastern European Jews, in two ways: 1) it is a “water bread” (it is made without egg in the dough) and 2) it usually includes mashed potato. This results in a bread with a white interior, a slight sourdough taste, an airy texture, and a shiny, golden brown, poppy seed–studded crust.
This recipe is adapted from one by Herta Bloch, an owner of the much-loved German-Jewish specialty meat shop Bloch & Falk, which had several locations in New York City from the 1930s to the 1990s.
7 cups (about 2 pounds) all-purpose flour, plus more as needed
2¼ cups warm water, or as needed, divided
1 envelope (2¼ teaspoons) active dry yeast
½ teaspoon sugar
¼ cup neutral-flavored oil
1 white potato, boiled, peeled, mashed, and cooled
1½ tablespoons salt
1 egg white, lightly beaten
1 to 2 tablespoons poppy seeds
1. Place the flour in a large mixing bowl and make a well in the center.
2. Pour ¼ cup of the warm water into the well. Add the yeast and sugar and stir gently to dissolve. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes until it is bubbling.
3. Add the oil, mashed potato, and salt. With a wooden spoon (or better yet, your hands), start to mix the flour into the yeast mixture in the well. Gradually add more of the remaining 2 cups warm water as needed to moisten the flour (being careful not to add too much—the dough should remain firm and you probably will not need to use all 2 cups!), while continuing to mix.
4. Remove the dough from the bowl and put on a floured breadboard (or a clean countertop). Knead by hand (press the dough hard with the palm of your hand, fold the dough over, and repeat) until all the flour is incorporated and the dough is well blended and smooth.
5. Wash and dry the mixing bowl and grease lightly with oil. Return the dough to the bowl, cover with a slightly damp kitchen towel, and place in a warm spot (such as in an oven that has been warmed on low, then turned off). Let it rise until doubled in size, 1 to 2 hours.
6. Punch down the dough in the bowl. Return to the floured breadboard (or countertop) and knead until smooth.
7. Lightly oil a baking sheet. To make 1 extra-large loaf, cut the dough into 3 equal parts and roll each part into a rope of equal length. Line up the 3 ropes in a parallel row. Pinch the ends together at one end. Cross the left-hand rope over the middle rope (the left-hand rope now moves to the middle position). Cross the right-hand rope over the middle rope. Continue crossing left- and right-hand ropes until you reach the end of the ropes. Pinch the ends together and tuck under. Place on a baking sheet. To make 2 medium loaves, cut the dough in half and follow instructions for 1 extra large loaf.
8. Cover the loaves with the damp kitchen towel. Return the baking sheet to the warm spot and let the dough rise again until doubled in size, 1 to 1½ hours.
9. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Brush the top of the bread with the beaten egg white and sprinkle generously with the poppy seeds. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the top is golden brown and when you tap the bottom it makes a hollow sound. Place on a wire rack to cool.
Chicken Soup and Rice Hühnersuppe mit Reis
| SERVES 6 TO 8 | M |
This is a different take on chicken soup with rice, one that is greater than the sum of its parts. Pureeing the cooked ingredients results in a wonderfully thick and creamy soup, even though it does not contain any cream. As with many of our soups, you can substitute or change the proportions of the aromatic vegetables—though don’t forego them, as they bring a flavor boost to the finished soup. If you cannot find parsley root (worth seeking out for its unique flavor), use additional parsley. This recipe will leave you with extra chicken meat. Use it to make chicken salad or Chicken Fricassee.
Note: Please use caution when transferring and working with very hot ingredients! Let them cool slightly before handling. Do not overfill the bowl of the food processor with hot liquid, as it can spatter.
1 (4- to 5-pound) chicken, including innards if you have them
1 medium-size onion, coarsely chopped
1 stalk celery, coarsely chopped
1 small parsley root, peeled and coarsely chopped, or ½ bunch parsley
1 carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon kosher salt
3 quarts water, plus more as needed
½ cup uncooked white rice
3 eggs, hard-boiled
Chopped parsley leaves, for garnish
1. Rinse the chicken and place in a 6-quart pot. Add the onion, celery, parsley root (or ½ bunch parsley), carrot, and the salt. Add the water, making sure it covers the chicken (add more if needed). Bring to a boil over high heat, then immediately lower to a simmer over medium heat and partially cover.
2. After 30 minutes, skim off any foam that has risen to the surface.
3. After an additional 30 minutes, ladle out 1 cup of the broth into a small-medium pot and set aside. Continue simmering the soup, partially covered, for 1½–2 hours longer. If the level of the liquid seems to be going down very quickly, you can add a little more water to the pot.
4. Meanwhile, bring the reserved chicken broth to a boil over high heat. Add the rice, stir, tightly cover the pot, and lower the heat. Let the rice simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, until the liquid has been absorbed and the rice is cooked. Uncover and set aside to cool slightly.
5. After the soup has been simmering for a total of 2½–3 hours, remove it from the heat. Carefully remove the chicken from the pot and place in a large heat-proof bowl. When it is cool enough to handle, remove the meat from the bones. Shred or chop 2 cups of the chicken meat and set aside. Reserve the remaining chicken meat for another use.
6. Wait until the broth has cooled down somewhat (be very careful pureeing hot liquid!). Working in batches, puree the broth and vegetables in a food processor (only fill the processor bowl halfway each time). Return the pureed vegetables and broth to the cleaned pot. Add the reserved chicken meat and the cooked rice to the food processor and puree along with some of the broth. Add the hard-boiled eggs to the food processor. When everything has been pureed, return it to pot and gently reheat the soup over low heat.
7. Serve the soup hot, garnished with the chopped parsley.
Matzo Balls Matze Suppenklösschen
| MAKES ABOUT 18 (2-INCH) BALLS | P · D |
Matzo ball soup is perhaps the most revered dish for Jewish holiday meals. A well-made matzo ball is ethereal, balanced between light and heavy, with a toothsome bite and a rich flavor, absorbing the savory taste of whatever broth it is sitting in. The variations among individual cooks and cultures are numerous—often subtle though significant, resulting in a more or less dense or tender dumpling. Our matzo balls, beloved among those who enjoy holiday meals with us, are a product of our conservative, nonkosher Jewish background. That is, these dumplings reflect a Jewish culture that considered itself “modern” well over a hundred years ago. As a result, our matzo balls are unabashedly made with butter. Of course, these matzo balls may be served in vegetable broth. We present them here because they reflect a strong cooking tradition not only in our family but also among a great number of German Jews, and also because they are scrumptious! For kosher readers wishing to serve them with a chicken or beef broth, they may be made—with equally wonderful results!—with unsalted margarine. Enjoy.
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted margarine or unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 large eggs plus 1 yolk, at room temperature
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
½–1 teaspoon kosher salt, to taste
1 cup (7 ounces) matzo meal
Chicken, beef, or vegetable broth, for serving
1. In a large bowl, beat the softened margarine or butter with a wooden spoon or an electric hand mixer until it is quite light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing for several minutes after each addition. Add the egg yolk and beat again. (It’s okay if the mixture isn’t perfectly blended together.)
2. Add the parsley and the salt and stir to combine.
3. Slowly add the matzo meal to the mixture while stirring with a wooden spoon. Continue adding the matzo meal until the mixture is well blended and firm, but not hard (you may not need to use all of the matzo meal). Gently form the dough into a ball, being careful not to press too firmly on the dough. Wrap the dough in wax paper or plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or overnight.
4. When ready to cook the matzo balls, remove the dough from the refrigerator and have a tall pot of soup simmering. Pinch off a golf ball–size piece of dough, rolling it between your palms to form a round dumpling. Continue until all the dough is used up.
5. Bring the soup to a boil over high heat. Working quickly, gently drop the matzo balls into the soup one by one. When the soup comes back to a boil, the matzo balls should have risen to the top. Decrease the heat to medium low, partially cover the pot, and let the matzo balls cook at a slow simmer for 30 minutes. Test one of the matzo balls by removing it from the pot and cutting it open. If it is dry on the inside, it is ready. (The center may still have a slightly darker color but that is fine.) If it does not appear ready, continue simmering for another 5 to 10 minutes.
6. Serve 1 or 2 matzo balls per bowl of soup.
Greenkern Soup with Duck Grünkernsuppe mit Ente
| SERVES 4 AS AN ENTRÉE OR 8 AS AN APPETIZER | M |
Greenkern, or Grünkern in German, is green—or unripe—spelt. Spelt is an ancient form of wheat that has been eaten in Europe, especially in Germany, for thousands of years. It wasn’t introduced to the United States until relatively recently, in the 1890s. It is available in health food shops and international grocers. Greenkern Soup, eaten by German Jews as a traditional Shabbos dish, was prepared on Friday afternoon as a Gesetzte Suppe. It was often brought to the town baker to be slow-cooked overnight in the oven and picked up the next day in time for the midday meal.
We are presenting this recipe made with duck because we love its unique and rich flavor. However, there is a lot of flexibility—use any type of poultry, beef, lamb, or veal along with bones (they add a lot of flavor!). Change up the vegetables, using celery root, turnip, kohlrabi, or parsnips instead of, or in addition to, the carrots and celery. Just be sure to use an onion or a leek or both, as their aromatic flavor is indispensible. As a general rule, use a total of 6 to 7 cups of chopped vegetables. This soup is a one-pot meal—hearty, fragrant, and delicious, the very definition of comfort food.
1½–2 pounds fresh duck meat with bones, such as legs, thighs, or breasts
1 leek, washed well to remove sand
2 carrots, peeled
3 stalks celery
1 white or yellow onion
10 cups water, divided
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon dried herbs (such as thyme, marjoram, or savory) or 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley
8 grinds freshly ground black pepper
4 ounces (approximately ¾ cup) ground greenkern*
1. Preheat oven to 250°F.
2. Remove the fat from the duck meat and reserve for another use. (See for instructions on rendering the fat.)
3. Chop the leek, carrots, celery, and onion into a ¼-inch dice. Add the vegetables to a 4-quart oven-safe soup pot along with the duck meat, 8 cups of the water, and the salt, herbs, parsley, and pepper. Set over high heat.
4. Put the greenkern in a small, heat-proof bowl or measuring cup. When the pot comes to a boil, ladle out 1 or 2 cups of liquid and add to the greenkern, stirring to mix. Pour the greenkern mixture back into the soup pot. Tightly cover the soup pot and place in the oven.
5. Let the soup cook for 3 hours, then check the level of the liquid. If the level has gone down significantly, you can add some or all of the remaining 2 cups water. Cover and return the pot to the oven for an additional 3 hours.
6. Remove the bones from the soup. The duck meat will be very tender; break it apart with a large fork or spoon into smaller pieces. Taste for salt and pepper, adjusting as needed. Serve the soup hot.
*Note: Greenkern is sold either whole or ground. This recipe uses ground (whole needs to be presoaked).
We first visited Johanna (Hanna) Zurndorfer on a beautiful autumn day and were warmly greeted at the door by our smiling, well-coiffed hostess. She had lived there for many decades, in this sunny, quiet apartment in the Riverdale section of New York City. Hanna’s apartment was formal, yet cozy in the way of her generation, with comfortable furniture, artwork, and family photographs. Coffee and cake, freshly baked by Hanna, was awaiting us on the dining table. Behind us was the small galley kitchen where Hanna continued to whip up the classic delicacies that she had known since childhood and that she continued to cook regularly for her family.
It was not easy to find people with a firsthand knowledge of, and interest in, the foods of their German-Jewish past. Our dear friend Ruthy, knowing what we were looking for, insisted that Hanna was someone we absolutely had to meet. So many of the German-born people we have talked to had parents who were killed, or from whom they were separated at a young age. They invariably did not remember the foods of their youth, or did not want to remember. Hanna was different. When we initially called her, she immediately invited us over. She was then ninety-five years old, and involved in myriad activities, including volunteering at a local hospital, attending meetings at her synagogue, socializing, and cooking and baking large holiday meals for her family. She immediately won our hearts.
Hanna was raised in a rural village named Rexingen, in the province of Baden-Württemberg in southwestern Germany. In 1930 it had 1,200 residents, of whom 400 were Jewish. It was a lively, traditional Jewish community, Orthodox and kosher. After Nazi policies curtailed Hanna’s ability to attend school, she traveled to Horb, a few miles away, then later to a suburb of Frankfurt to continue her education. As Nazi laws increasingly impinged on Jewish life, the situation became untenable and she left for America at the age of nineteen. Arriving in New York City alone in 1936, Hanna worked as housekeeper and nanny (as did most other young, single women who had emigrated) until she got married.
Hanna remembered her youth very well. Her clear memory of the food and cooking of her childhood was reinforced by the fact that her mother followed her, emigrating to the United States in 1937, where she continued to cook and bake throughout her life—and where she continued to teach her daughter how to cook.
Hanna’s family life was typical of rural Jewish Germany of the time. Her father was a cattle dealer—the most common occupation of Jewish villagers for centuries, and one that provided an adequate living for many families. Her father typically traveled all week, from Sunday until Friday, returning home to the family in time for the beginning of Shabbos. Her mother prepared a large meal for Friday night, which might have included Berches, a carp dish, greenkern soup, soup meat, Spätzle or potatoes, and compote. These are just some of the foods Hanna remembered from her childhood Shabbos meals.
To a large degree, Hanna’s family ate what they grew, including plums, cherries, and walnuts from the trees in their garden. During the week, the family may have eaten some leftover meat from the Sabbath meals, but for the most part their weekday meals were non-meat or dairy and included noodles, Spätzle, dumplings, or pancakes. These dough-based foods were generally served with fruit compote.
Beef and veal were the primary meats, and her mother milked their own cow. If they had chickens, they were laying hens because Hanna did not remember eating much chicken. But every year they slaughtered at least one goose that her mother had fattened with pellets of dough. The goose produced enough fat to last several months. During the rest of the year, they used beef fat for their meat meals or hand-churned butter for their dairy meals.
Although Rexingen was not remote or isolated, the food culture tended to be based on local and homegrown ingredients. For example, while almonds were a staple ingredient in Jewish cookbooks, Hanna did not remember having them during her childhood. She assumed that her mother felt no need to purchase them, since there were plenty of walnut trees nearby. Nor does she remember using lemons, another ingredient that—though imported from southern Europe—was commonly used in recipes of the time.
On warm, sunny days, her mother sat with her friends in the orchard doing handiwork and chatting, though, according to Hanna, they did not bring out coffee and cake as did their urban relatives.
Hanna continued to make her carp dish for Friday night dinners well into the 2000s, something her family—including her great-grandchildren—treasured. We visited Hanna on another afternoon to watch her prepare carp in aspic. By this time, her source for carp had disappeared. Until the early 2000s, she bought her fish from Apicella’s fish market on 183rd Street and St. Nicholas Avenue in Washington Heights. But after it closed, she had nowhere to buy carp. The carp tradition within Jewish culture has effectively vanished from most parts of the United States, including New York City. Food availability follows demand, and because there is demand for live fish today among Asian populations, it is possible to buy it at Asian markets. However, what is called “carp” by some stores is in fact buffalo carp, an entirely different fish. When we brought fish to Hanna’s for our recipe-making afternoon, we inadvertently purchased the wrong type of carp.
Like many old-style cooks, Hanna cooked instinctively and from memory, not from written recipes. We watched her meticulous and detailed execution of the fish recipe, and helped—per her instructions—as best we could. She carefully sliced, then reconstructed the cooked fish on the platter to resemble a full fish, with head and tail. She then spooned the cooking liquid over the fish and placed sliced carrots across the top, to form a colorful, decorative row. The platter then went into the refrigerator, where the liquid chilled into a firm, delicate aspic. However, when we tasted the chilled dish, Hanna was dissatisfied with the fish. The flesh of the buffalo carp was soft, not firm as she expected it to be.
Although common carp, the type of fish that Hanna, and many other German Jews, had eaten for many years, is difficult to locate today, we include the recipe here. We are determined to present these recipes in near-original format, with their spirit remaining intact. However, adaptations—sometimes in the form of substitutions—are sometimes necessary. Common carp is available in few places and at limited times of year (Passover, Rosh Hashanah, and Christmas). It can also be shipped from the Midwest, where it remains a commonly available fish. However, the recipe here includes suggestions of substitute fish that are well suited to the dish and may be used in place of carp.
Postscript: Hanna continued living a peaceful and productive life in her own apartment with relatively few health issues until her hundredth birthday. She died in 2016, still enjoying the company of her family and community, and still doing her own cooking.
Carp, Sweet and Sour Karpfen mit süss-saurer Sauce
| SERVES 6 | P |
On Friday nights, traditional Jewish kitchens in Germany served carp as a Forspeis (appetizer). Carp was a readily available freshwater fish. It was raised in ponds and kept in tanks at the fishmonger’s to be sold live. Keeping the carp alive has two purposes: 1) it gives the seller a chance to “cleanse” the bottom-feeding fish in clear water for a day or two, to make sure that it has no muddy taste, and 2) it ensures that the buyer will have impeccably fresh fish.
In Washington Heights, Apicella’s fish market followed that tradition. Gaby remembers watching the carp swim in the metal tank in the store’s window during the 1940s and 1950s. Those carp were bought by families that made gefilte fish, or by German and Austrian families that poached the carp and ate it either hot as a main dish or cold as an appetizer. The cold version is the one that our friend Hanna showed us how to make—it is the one that was ubiquitous in kosher German households, especially in small rural towns where culinary habits were more reflective of traditional cuisine than urban ones were. The cold poached carp was generally served in one of three ways: with a brown sauce, with an aspic that was flavored with herbs and aromatic vegetables, or with a sweet and sour aspic.
It will be necessary to purchase a whole fish (preferably no larger than 4 pounds), and have the fishmonger cut it into one-inch steaks. Common carp, caught wild in the United States, is available at some Asian fish markets. Be sure it is not buffalo carp, a different fish, which can be identified by its lack of barbels. You might also be able to order it from a Midwestern fish dealer (listed on the resources page). If carp is unavailable, other options include bass, salmon, and grouper.
Sweet-sour is one of the most popular ways that the carp appetizer was traditionally served. Gingersnaps add a spicy sweetness and a dark color, in addition to thickening the sauce. Note that this recipe requires a platter with raised, sloped edges that will hold the fish and the liquid, which later gels.
6 1-inch thick steaks of carp, bass, salmon, grouper, or a similar fish (2 to 3 pounds total)
Kosher salt
COURT BOUILLON
3 stalks celery, cut in half
1 onion, cut in half
2 carrots, peeled, cut in half
½ lemon, preferably organic, thinly sliced
2 bay leaves
2 to 3 sprigs parsley
4 whole cloves
1 teaspoon kosher salt, or more to taste
½ teaspoon black peppercorns
2 cups of water
¼ cup apple cider or white wine vinegar
SAUCE
1 tablespoon light or dark brown sugar, or more to taste
1 gingersnap cookie
1 lemon, cut into wedges
2 to 3 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
Making the fish
1. Rinse the fish under cold water, pat dry with a paper towel, and sprinkle both sides with salt. Lay fish on a plate and set aside.
Making the court bouillon
2. Combine the celery, onion, carrots, lemon slices, bay leaves, parsley, cloves, salt, peppercorns, water, and vinegar in a medium-size pot. Bring to a boil over high heat, decrease the heat, partially cover, and simmer for 20 minutes. Taste the broth, and add salt if needed.
3. Strain the broth through a fine-mesh strainer into a pot just wide enough to hold the fish in one layer, and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Set aside the carrots and discard the remaining contents of the strainer.
4. Rinse the salt off the fish steaks and gently lower them into the broth. The fish should be covered with liquid; add water to the pot, if needed. Simmer over medium heat, partially covered, for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the fish is opaque. Once it is, immediately remove the fish so it does not overcook.
5. Gently remove the fish steaks with a slotted spatula and place on a serving platter with sloped sides. Cut the carrots into thin rounds. Moisten the fish with a few spoonfuls of the court bouillon. Place the carrot slices decoratively on top of the fish and add a few more spoonfuls of court bouillon over the carrots. Cover with aluminum foil, making sure that the foil does not touch the fish, and refrigerate.
Making the sauce
6. Bring the court bouillon to a boil over high heat, then lower to medium high and gently boil until it is reduced to 1 cup, about 10 minutes. Decrease heat to medium low and add the brown sugar and gingersnap cookie, stirring to dissolve the sugar and break up the cookie. Continue simmering, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes, or until the sauce thickens and is smooth. Taste, and add more sugar or vinegar, if needed. Let the sauce cool to room temperature, about 60 minutes.
7. Spoon the sauce over the fish, and cover the platter with aluminum foil. Refrigerate for at least 1 to 3 hours, or overnight, until the sauce has gelled.
8. Serve cold, garnished with the lemon wedges and chopped parsley.
Herring Salad Heringssalat
| SERVES 8 TO 12 | D |
Herring has long held a special place at the Jewish table. German-Jewish families have traditionally served this salad for Hanukkah, Rosh Hashanah, or for breaking the fast (anbeissen) at Yom Kippur. Of course, it makes for a perfect luncheon dish or appetizer at any time of year. This dish can be made with pickled herring (herring in wine sauce) sold in a jar at most supermarkets. You can also purchase freshly pickled herring at Polish, Russian, Scandinavian, German, or Jewish specialty delicatessens, such as the famous Russ & Daughters in New York City. This salad is very nice when served with thinly sliced rye bread!
Our friend Moris is the son of survivors. When his family came out of a displaced persons camp in Europe after the war, they were resettled in St. Paul, Minnesota. As a boy, Moris would fish in the Mississippi River, very close to its source, where the water is clean. When Moris was a guest at our Passover seder and we served a carp appetizer,his face lit up. The taste was immediately familiar, because as a child he brought the fish he caught home and his mother would cook it. Despite its undeserved reputation in the United States as distasteful and oily, it is neither. It is a fish with firm and tasty flesh.
Hard beef salami was part of the recipe that Eveline Külkin shared with us. When added (about 4 ounces, cut into small dice) it lends a deep, smoky flavor to the salad. Naturally, it cannot be used with dairy in a kosher recipe.
12 ounce-jar pickled herring and onions, or freshly pickled, cut into ½-inch dice
6 tablespoons chopped (¼-inch dice) dill or half-sour pickles
3 medium-size waxy potatoes (about 1 pound), steamed, peeled, cooled, and cut into ½-inch dice
1 crisp, tart apple, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice
¼ cup finely chopped red onion
⅓ cup finely chopped walnuts
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar or cider vinegar
¼ cup sour cream
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh dill
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard or ¼ teaspoon mustard powder
½ teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste
⅛ teaspoon ground black pepper, or to taste
1 tablespoon neutral-flavored oil
1. Combine the herring, pickles, potatoes, apple, onion, and walnuts in a 2- or 3-quart serving bowl.
2. Combine the vinegar, sour cream, dill, mustard, salt, and pepper in a small bowl and whisk to blend. Whisk in the oil. Pour the dressing over the salad, and gently mix. Refrigerate until you are ready to serve it.
Roast Goose Gebratene Gans
| SERVES 6 TO 8 | M |
Roast goose has a rich, golden brown, crisp skin. All the meat is dark, and it is full-flavored.
Goose contains a lot of fat, and the goal while cooking it is to remove as much of the fat that lies under the skin as possible. An orange, an onion, or both are put inside the bird to absorb some of the fat and to lend some aromatic flavor. That fat, or “liquid gold,” as it is often called, is removed from the roasting pan with a spoon or basting bulb and can be poured into a jar. As it cools, the liquid solidifies into a solid white fat—aka Schmalz—an important cooking fat in German-Jewish cuisine and an ingredient in many recipes in this book. The fat, when refrigerated, will keep for months, and longer if frozen.
Because geese have so much fat, they are not negatively affected by freezing. We have had very good success with frozen, free-range geese raised in the Dakotas. When geese are in season—late summer through Christmas—they are available from local farmers. If you are using a frozen goose, transfer the goose from the freezer to the refrigerator two or three days before roasting to allow it to thaw.
8- to 11-pound goose, fresh or thawed if frozen
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons kosher salt, or to taste, divided
1 orange and/or 1 onion
1 or 2 cloves garlic, cut in half (optional)
½ teaspoon ground black or white pepper, or to taste
1 teaspoon ground ginger
Chicken or vegetable broth or water, as needed
2 teaspoons cornstarch, as needed
Sliced oranges, parsley, or watercress, for garnish
Roasted vegetables, for serving
1. Put the fresh or thawed goose in the sink and remove and discard the wrappings. Remove any loose fat by either pulling or cutting it away, and set it aside to be rendered at a later time. Rub 2 tablespoons of the salt over the bird, both inside and out, and let it sit in the sink for about 30 minutes.
2. Preheat the oven to 450°F.
3. Rinse the bird thoroughly under cool running water and blot it dry with paper towels. Place an orange, cut in half, or a whole onion, or both inside the cavity of the bird.
4. Rub the bird inside and out with the cut garlic, if desired. Combine the remaining 2 teaspoons salt, pepper, and ginger in a small bowl and rub it over the bird, inside and out.
5. Fit a roasting rack into a large roasting pan. Place the goose, breast side up, on the rack and pour ½ cup of broth into the bottom of the pan. Set the pan in the oven.
6. After 30 minutes, decrease the oven temperature to 325°F. Using a fork, prick the skin all over, especially under the wings and legs, where the fat is thickest. At the same time, baste the goose with a ladleful or two of the drippings. Repeat this procedure every 30 minutes. Have ready a lidded glass jar with a small strainer set over the mouth. As the liquid fat accumulates in the bottom of the pan, carefully remove it with a bulb baster, ladle, or large spoon and pour it into the jar. (The strainer will filter out any solids in the fat.)
7. Smaller geese, under 10 pounds, will require 25 minutes cooking per pound, and larger ones, 20 minutes per pound. When ready, the goose will be golden brown. When a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh registers 165°F, it is done. If the skin is not crisp, increase the heat to 350°F and cook for another 15 minutes. Goose meat will not dry out easily, as a chicken might. Remove the goose from the roasting pan and set on a board or plate. Let rest for 15 minutes before carving.
8. To make a gravy from the pan drippings, skim off and discard most of the fat from the drippings in the roasting pan, and spoon the remaining drippings into a small saucepan. Thin the drippings with an equal amount of broth, and season with salt and pepper to taste. If you need more gravy, add more broth. If the gravy requires thickening, mix 1 to 2 teaspoons of cornstarch in a small bowl with cool water until dissolved. Add the mixture to the saucepan and stir over medium heat until the liquid is no longer cloudy and the gravy thickens.
9. To carve the goose, lay the bird on a cutting board. As you carve, lay the pieces on a serving platter. Begin with the legs: using a sharp knife, make a cut where the leg meets the body. Pull the leg away to expose the joint and cut in between the bones to release the leg. Slice the breast meat against the grain. Remove the remaining meat (and don’t forget the crispy skin!).
10. Garnish the platter with the sliced oranges and serve with roasted vegetables.
Roast Duck Gebratene Ente
| SERVES 4 | M |
A roast duck is prepared very much like a roast goose. It is a much smaller bird and will need less cooking time, but like the goose, it must be de-fatted frequently during roasting by pricking the skin and removing the fat from the pan several times.
Roast duck has all dark, full-flavored, succulent meat with a crisp skin. An orange, an onion, or both are put inside the bird to absorb some of the fat, as well as to lend some aromatic flavor. The fat, which is removed from the roasting pan with a spoon or basting bulb, can be poured into a jar. As it cools, it solidifies into a semisolid white fat—aka Schmalz—an important cooking fat in German-Jewish cuisine, and an ingredient in many recipes in this book. The fat, when refrigerated, will keep for months, and longer if frozen.
Once you have tried roasting a duck a few times, you will see it is no more difficult than roasting a chicken. If you are using a frozen duck, transfer the duck from the freezer to the refrigerator two or three days before roasting to allow it to thaw.
4- to 6-pound duck, fresh or thawed, if frozen
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste, divided
1 orange and/or 1 onion
1 or 2 cloves garlic, cut in half (optional)
½ teaspoon ground black or white pepper, plus more to taste
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 cup orange juice, or more if needed, divided
3 tablespoons orange liqueur
Sliced oranges, for garnish
parsley or watercress, for garnish
1. Remove any loose fat, by either pulling or cutting it away, and set it aside to be rendered at a later time (see). Rub 2 tablespoons of the salt over the bird, both inside and out, and let it sit in the sink for about 30 minutes.
2. Preheat the oven to 450°F.
3. Rinse the bird thoroughly under cool running water, and blot it dry with paper towels. Place an orange, cut in half, or a whole onion, or both inside the cavity of the bird. Rub the bird inside and out with the cut garlic, if desired. Combine the remaining 2 teaspoons salt, pepper, and ginger in a small bowl and rub it over the bird, inside and out.
4. Fit a roasting rack into a large roasting pan. Place the duck, breast side up, on the rack and pour ½ cup of the orange juice over the duck. Set the pan into the oven.
5. After 30 minutes, decrease the temperature to 325°F. Using a fork, prick the skin all over, especially under the wings and legs, where the fat is thickest. Repeat this procedure every half hour. Have ready a lidded glass jar with a small strainer set over the mouth. As the liquid fat accumulates in the bottom of the pan, carefully remove it with a bulb baster, ladle, or large spoon and pour it into the jar. (The strainer will filter out any solids in the fat.)
6. The duck will require 20 minutes per pound. When ready, the skin will be golden brown and crisp. Remove the duck from the roasting pan and set it on a board or plate. Let it rest for 15 minutes before carving.
7. Skim and discard most of the fat from the drippings in the roasting pan, and spoon the remaining drippings into a small saucepan. Thin the drippings with the remaining ½ cup orange juice, add the orange liqueur, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Simmer the gravy for a few minutes.
8. The easiest way to serve the duck is to cut it into 4 pieces. This results in 4 generous servings. Garnish the platter with the sliced oranges and greens.
Veal Roast Kalbsbraten
| SERVES 8 | M |
Veal roast is succulent and tender—a more delicate alternative to a beef roast—and suitable for a holiday meal or any occasion. When paired with plenty of vegetables while cooking, the result is a delicious gravy that is an ideal accompaniment to Potato Dumplings. The aim is a roast that is crisp on the outside and tender on the inside, with enough liquid for a gravy. For that reason the temperature begins high, then is lowered after 20 minutes. Allow 30 minutes per pound. If you are using a meat thermometer, insert a conventional thermometer into the meat at the beginning of the roasting process (setting it at enough of an angle so that the cover will close). If you are using an instant thermometer, follow the directions for that device. However, you don’t need to use a thermometer. The roast will be done when a fork inserted into the meat meets no resistance.
Please see our note about humanely raised veal.
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground black or white pepper
1 clove garlic, run through a garlic press
½ teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon dried thyme or savory
4 pounds boneless veal roast, shoulder or leg, tied with kitchen twine
2 to 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour, or as needed, divided
1 small onion, finely chopped, or 1 leek, rinsed well between the layers and thinly sliced
1 large carrot, peeled and finely chopped
1 stalk celery, finely chopped
Several stems of parsley, stems removed and discarded
2 tablespoons goose, duck, or chicken fat or neutral-flavored oil
1 cup white wine, plus more as needed
¼ cup Madeira or sherry
¼ cup water, at room temperature (optional)
1. Preheat the oven to 500°F.
2. Combine the salt, pepper, garlic, ginger, and dried herbs in a small dish and stir to blend. Rub the meat with the mixture, evenly coating all sides. Place 2 tablespoons of the flour on a plate and dredge the meat in the flour, coating all sides.
3. Heat the fat over medium-high heat in a Dutch oven or heavy oven-safe pot large enough to hold the meat. Place the meat in the pot and sear it on all sides. Add the chopped vegetables and wine to the pot. Put in the preheated oven, uncovered, for 20 minutes.
4. Decrease the temperature to 325°F. Check the pot to see whether there is still about ½ inch of liquid in the bottom. If not, add wine or water to return the liquid to that level. Cover the pot and return to the oven for 30 minutes.
5. Baste the meat and check the level of the liquid. Replenish the liquid if necessary. Cook, covered, for another 30 minutes.
6. Remove the cover (so the meat will brown). From this point on, baste the meat every 15 minutes or so, adding more liquid as needed to maintain the level in the bottom of the pot. For a 4-pound roast, the meat should be done in another 40 minutes, or if you are using a thermometer, it will be done at 165°F.
7. Remove the meat from the pot and place it on a board to rest for 10 to 15 minutes.
8. Check the liquid remaining in the pot for any fat floating on the surface. If there seems to be a lot, skim it off with a spoon and discard. Add the Madeira. Pour the liquid into a heat-proof measuring cup. Add enough wine or water to equal 1½ cups. If the liquid is not thick enough to be gravy, pour it back into the pot. Dissolve the remaining 1 tablespoon flour in the room-temperature water, stirring, and add to the saucepan. Cook until the flour is incorporated and leaves no taste in the sauce.
9. Slice the meat against the grain into ½-inch slices and place on a serving platter. Serve the gravy separately in a gravy boat. Traditional accompaniments include potato dumplings, matzo dumplings, potato Schalet, steamed potatoes, or Spätzle.
Stuffed Veal Breast Gefüllte Kalbsbrust
| SERVES 4 TO 6 | M |
This has always been a popular dish for festive meals, be it a holiday or Shabbos. Roasted in a large Dutch oven or heavy covered pot, it is served with a gravy made from the pan drippings. The veal has a melt-in-your-mouth quality. The bread stuffing, made with a variety of herbs and spices, offers a flavor-filled counterpoint to the mild-tasting meat. The meat is traditionally accompanied by Spätzle or simply steamed potatoes, and a green vegetable.
Note: veal breast is an unusual cut of meat in the United States. It may not be available in a standard supermarket. You are likely to find one at a traditional butcher shop or a kosher butcher shop, or by buying directly from a veal farmer. A butcher will likely be able to make the necessary cut to create a pocket for the stuffing. If not, we have simple instructions in the recipe for doing it yourself.
Please see our note about humanely raised veal.
2 large hard rolls (such as Kaiser, Vienna, French, or ciabatta rolls)
2 tablespoons goose, duck, or chicken fat or neutral-flavored oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
½ carrot, peeled and finely chopped
1 stalk celery, finely chopped
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
½ teaspoon ground ginger
½ teaspoon sweet paprika
½ teaspoon dried sage
½ teaspoon ground black or white pepper
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 large eggs
VEAL
3- to 5-pound breast of veal, with pocket cut in
1 clove garlic, cut in half
2 teaspoons kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
GRAVY
2 tablespoons goose, duck, or chicken fat or neutral-flavored oil
1 small onion, coarsely chopped
½ carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 stalk celery, coarsely chopped
½ cup white wine, plus more if needed
2 tablespoons water, at room temperature, if needed
1 teaspoon cornstarch, if needed
Making the stuffing
1. Tear the rolls into small pieces, about ½ inch in size. Place them in a bowl with warm water to cover and let sit for a few minutes, until the bread is soaked. Pour off the water and squeeze the bread to remove as much water as possible.
2. Melt the fat in a medium-size skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté slowly until it is transparent, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. Add the carrot and celery and cook for a few minutes longer, but without browning, until the vegetables begin to get soft. Add the bread and parsley, and continue cooking while mixing until the bread dries out and everything is blended.
3. Add the ginger, paprika, sage, pepper, and salt. Remove from the heat and let cool.
4. Whisk the eggs in a small bowl. Add them to the cooled stuffing and stir to combine.
Making the veal
5. Preheat the oven to 450°F.
6. If the pocket has not been cut into the meat do it yourself as follows: From the front of the roast, where the ribs are visible, slide a large knife into the fat, separating two layers of the meat, without cutting all the way through to the back or the sides, to create a pocket.
7. Rub the meat inside and out with the garlic, salt, and pepper. Spoon the stuffing into the pocket. Close the pocket by threading one or two metal skewers through the meat. If the breast is very large, the butcher may make cuts between the ribs. In that case, you have to bind the roast with butcher’s twine at every rib, and once across the breast sideways.
Making the gravy
8. In a Dutch oven or heavy pot large enough to hold the veal breast, heat the fat. Add the onion, carrot, and celery to the pot. Cook over medium heat, stirring the vegetables for a few minutes, until they begin to soften. Add the wine. Insert a meat thermometer into the thick part of the meat, sideways, so that it will not interfere with the cover. The veal will cook for 30 minutes per pound, for a total of 1½–2½ hours, depending on the size of your roast.
9. Add the roast to the pot and place it in the oven uncovered. Roast for 20 minutes at this temperature.
10. Turn the temperature down to 350°F.
11. Cover the pot. After 40 minutes of cooking, remove the cover from the pot. From this point on baste every 20 minutes with liquid from the bottom of the pot, using a brush, spoon, or basting bulb. When the time is up, check for doneness by piercing the meat with a fork. It should be browned and very tender. If it isn’t, continue cooking, and check again after 15 minutes.
12. Remove the meat from the pot and transfer to a cutting board. Let it rest for 15 to 20 minutes, while you make the gravy.
13. Put the pot on the stove top over medium heat. If there is not enough liquid in the pot to make gravy, add more white wine or water. Heat the liquid and scrape up the browned bits on the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon. If the gravy needs thickening, combine the water and cornstarch in a small bowl and stir to dissolve. Pour the cornstarch mixture into the pot. Bring the liquid to a boil and stir, cooking until the mixture becomes translucent and thickens, 2 to 3 minutes. When the gravy is ready to serve, pour it into a gravy boat.
14. Cut the meat and stuffing down to the bone, into serving slices, and place on a serving platter. Cut as much meat away from the bones as you can and place it on the platter. Serve the veal with the gravy, accompanied by potato dumplings, potato Schalet, matzo Schalet, Spätzle, or steamed potatoes.
Breaded Veal Cutlets Wiener Schnitzel
| SERVES 6 | M |
Wiener Schnitzel is the simplest of treatments—tender, thin cutlets (or scallops) of veal are breaded and sautéed until crisp and golden brown, leaving the flavor of the meat to shine through.
For this dish, your aim is to find a good-quality butcher who offers this cut of meat. The butcher may have already tenderized the cutlets, or may do it to order. If not, you can do it yourself at home.
In the nonkosher Rossmer household, the cutlets were fried in a combination of butter and oil, which is an option. This recipe can also be made by substituting chicken or turkey cutlets for the veal. For a traditional meal, serve with roasted potatoes and string beans, green peas, or peas and carrots.
Please see our note about humanely raised veal.
1½ pounds veal cutlets
⅓ cup all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon kosher salt
Ground black or white pepper, to taste
1 large egg
½ cup bread crumbs or matzo meal
3 tablespoons neutral-flavored oil
1 lemon, cut into wedges, for serving
1. If the meat is not already tenderized, place it between two sheets of wax paper and pound it using a mallet or rolling pin (if you have neither, you can even use the back of a large serving spoon). Pound the meat until it spreads out to approximately one and a half times its original size.
2. Mix the flour with the salt and pepper in a shallow bowl or plate.
3. In a second shallow bowl, whisk the egg until foamy.
4. Place the bread crumbs in a third shallow bowl.
5. Line up the three bowls, first flour, then egg, then bread crumbs. One at a time, dredge a veal cutlet in the flour, then dip in the egg, being sure to fully coat the veal on both sides, then press it into the crumbs, again being sure to evenly coat it on both sides. Place the coated meat on a clean plate. Repeat with the remaining veal cutlets.
6. Meanwhile, divide the oil between 2 large skillets and heat them over high heat. Lay the cutlets in the hot oil—they will sizzle—and lower the heat to ensure that the bread crumb coating does not burn. When one side has become golden brown, in about 5 minutes, turn the cutlet to cook the other side. When both sides are golden brown, after an additional 5 minutes, cut the thickest part of a cutlet with a sharp knife—if the meat is almost uniform in color all the way through (it’s fine for it to be slightly pink in the middle), the Schnitzel are ready to serve.
7. Garnish each cutlet with a wedge of lemon. Serve immediately.
Beef Goulash Gulasch
| SERVES 4 TO 6 | M |
Despite its Hungarian origins, goulash is as common in Germany as beef stew is in the United States. Any German cook would view it as a native dish, and goulash appeared routinely in all the old German-Jewish cookbooks. This version is slow-cooked in the oven, giving the meat a rich tenderness and thickening the sauce luxuriously. The addition of a small piece of dark bread acts as a sauce thickener. This recipe reflects the standard way that Gaby’s mother, Erna, prepared this dish, with the addition of a small can of tomato sauce. This recipe can be made equally well with veal. Serve with Spätzle, egg noodles, boiled potato, or Schalet (matzo or potato) during Passover.
2 tablespoons neutral-flavored oil
1 medium-size onion, thinly sliced
1½ pounds chuck or other stew beef (or veal), cut into 1½-inch cubes
8 white mushrooms, cut into quarters (optional)
½ cup tomato sauce
2 large carrots, peeled and cut into 1½-inch pieces
1 teaspoon hot or sweet paprika
Kosher salt and ground black or white pepper, to taste
1 heel, or slice, of dark bread
1. Preheat the oven to 275°F.
2. In a large Dutch oven, preferably enameled, heat the oil over high heat. Add the onion, decrease the heat to medium, and cook, stirring, until translucent, 5 to 10 minutes.
3. Push the onions to the side of the pot and add the meat cubes. Brown the meat, turning so all sides are browned. Add the mushrooms, if desired, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, or until they release their liquid. Add the tomato sauce, carrots, paprika, and salt and pepper to taste; stir to combine. Add the bread (omit this during Passover). Bring to a boil, cover, and place in the center of the oven. Cook for 1 hour.
4. Serve with Spätzle, egg noodles, boiled potatoes, or Schalet (matzo or potato) on Passover.
Sauerbraten
| SERVES 8 TO 10 | M |
The most German of all meat dishes, Sauerbraten (literally translated as “sour roast”) is a tender beef roast with a sweet and sour sauce that was beloved by Jews. The Jewish version of Sauerbraten differs, however, from the standard German version in that the cream is omitted. This recipe comes from our cousin, Ann Bron.
Because it originally used an inexpensive (hence tougher) cut of meat, its secret was the several days of marinating that tenderized the meat before cooking. While the recipe is not difficult, you need to plan ahead and start marinating the meat 3 to 5 days before you plan to serve it.
The combination of sweet (from sugar, gingersnaps, and raisins), sour (from vinegar and tart apple), and spice (clove, black pepper, and juniper berries) results in a rich, almost barbecued-beef quality of the final roast, and a gravy with numerous flavor undertones. The quantity of meat may be increased to yield more servings (or to create more leftovers for sandwiches in the days following your meal!) by simply multiplying the amount of the marinade ingredients. The recipe can also be made with brisket. That cut will be fattier, and the shape will be longer and thinner, likely resulting in a shorter cooking time.
It is important to use a nonreactive bowl or pot (such as glass, ceramic, or stainless steel) to marinate the meat. Use one in which the meat fits snugly, though it should be a few inches taller than the meat to contain the marinade.
Sauerbraten pairs wonderfully with any of these traditional side dishes: noodles, Spätzle, potato dumplings, mashed potatoes, red cabbage, or cabbage slaw.
2 cups cider vinegar or white wine vinegar
4 cups water
2 tablespoons sugar
8 to 10 whole cloves
6 to 8 juniper berries (optional)
1 star anise (optional)
4 to 5 pounds boneless chuck, rump, or round roast
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
2 onions, sliced, divided
½ cup black raisins
2 tablespoons goose or duck fat, divided
1 tart apple, such as Granny Smith, cored, peeled, and cut into ¼-inch slices
8 gingersnap cookies
Day 1
1. Put the vinegar, water, sugar, cloves, juniper berries (if desired), and star anise (if desired) in a medium-size pot and bring to a boil over high heat to make the marinade. Set aside and let cool.
2. Tie the meat with kitchen twine by wrapping it around the length of the meat, then wrapping it crosswise three times; then secure the ends in a knot. Sprinkle the meat with the salt and pepper. Place the meat in a bowl or pot and pour the marinade over it (make sure the meat is covered with liquid; if not, add enough water to cover). Add half of the onions and raisins. Place a plate on the meat to weight it down. Cover the bowl tightly with heavy-duty aluminum foil and place in the refrigerator (or the coldest area possible) to marinate for 3 to 5 days.
Days 1 to 3 (or up to 5 days)
3. Turn the meat upside down twice a day. You can use the twine to lift and turn the meat.
Day 3 (or 4 or 5)
4. Remove the meat from the refrigerator and place it on a plate that has been lined with a few layers of paper towels. Strain the marinade through a strainer into a bowl, reserving the liquid.
5. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
6. In a heavy enameled pot or Dutch oven that is big enough to hold the meat, melt 1 tablespoon of the fat over medium-high heat. Add the remaining half of the sliced onions, decrease the heat to medium low, and sauté, stirring, until light golden (not dark), about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, dry the meat on all sides by blotting with additional paper towels. The surface should be thoroughly dry, so the meat will brown.
7. Push the onions to the sides of the pot. Turn the heat to medium high, and add the remaining 1 tablespoon fat. When sizzling, add the meat. Brown the meat, using a large fork to turn the meat as each side browns. When all sides have been browned, add enough of the marinade to come halfway up the sides of the meat and cover the pot.
8. Place the pot in the center of the oven. Set the timer to 3 hours. Check the pot every 45 minutes, and if the liquid has decreased, add more marinade. After 2¼ hours, add the apple slices and gingersnaps to the pot.
9. After 3 hours, test the meat for doneness by piercing it with the large fork. If it is tender (the fork goes in easily), the meat is done. Transfer the meat to a cutting board. Let it rest for 15 minutes, then cut across the grain into slices. Place the slices on a serving platter.
10. Stir the bottom of the pot to loosen the brown bits. If the liquid is too thick to use as a sauce, add a little water, stirring. Drizzle a couple of spoonfuls of sauce over the sliced meat, then put the rest in a sauceboat to serve at the table.
11. Serve the Sauerbraten with noodles, Spätzle, or potato dumplings.
Matzo Dumplings Matze Knödel
| MAKES 12 (2-INCH) DUMPLINGS | M · P |
This recipe came to us from Herta Bloch, the former owner of Bloch & Falk meat shop in New York City.
These dumplings are very different from matzo balls in that they are not eaten in soup, though they are equally delicious! Made from whole sheets of matzo, which have been broken up into bite-size pieces and soaked in water before cooking, they can be served with any dish that is accompanied by gravy. Typically, they were served with roast meat or poultry, but they are also wonderful as a vegetarian dish when paired with Mushroom Sauce. Don’t skip the refrigeration step in the recipe, because it makes a big difference in the success of the dumplings holding together during the boiling process!
8 ounces matzo (half of a 1-pound box)
2 tablespoons neutral-flavored oil or duck or goose fat
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon ground ginger
10 grinds of black pepper
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
6 tablespoons matzo meal, divided
2½ quarts water
2 bouillon cubes, or 2 cups chicken or vegetable broth (to replace 2 cups of the water)
Chopped parsley, for garnish
1. Break up the matzo into small pieces, about ½ inch in size, and put in a large mixing bowl. Add lukewarm water to cover and let sit for 5 minutes. Empty the matzo into a colander, set in the sink, and press down to squeeze the water out of the matzo.
2. Heat a large frying pan over medium-high heat and add the oil or fat. When it’s hot, add the drained matzo, decrease the heat to low, and cook for 5 minutes, continually turning the matzo in the pan, until it is dry (but do not let it brown). Add the salt, ginger, and pepper and stir to combine.
3. Return the matzo to the large mixing bowl and add the eggs, stirring to combine. Add 2 tablespoons of the matzo meal and stir. Form a ball, wrap it in wax paper or plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight, or for at least 6 hours.
4. Place a bowl of water next to your workspace. Spread the remaining 4 tablespoons matzo meal on a small plate. Wet your hands, scoop up some of the matzo mixture, and roll it into a 2-inch ball, gently squeezing it to compress the dough. Gently press the dumpling into the matzo meal, rolling it to coat all sides. Place the dumpling on a clean plate. Repeat with the remaining matzo mixture. Refrigerate the plate of dumplings for 15 to 20 minutes.
5. In a wide 3- or 4-quart pot, add the water and bouillon. Bring to a boil over high heat. When the broth is boiling, gently add the dumplings to the pot using a large spoon. Cook the dumplings for 10 to 11 minutes (they will float to the surface after the first couple of minutes in the pot). Gently remove one dumpling with a slotted spoon, letting the cooking liquid drain off, and cut open to test for doneness. When done, the dumpling will look uniform throughout. If it is not done, allow an additional 1 to 2 minutes cooking time. Remove the dumplings from the pot, drain, and place in a serving bowl.
6. Serve immediately with meat, poultry, or vegetables and the gravy or sauce of your choice, garnished with chopped parsley.
Matzo Schalet Matzeschalet
| MAKES 16 (2-INCH) SQUARES | M · P |
This is one of the innumerable treatments of matzo during the eight days of Passover. When this dish is in the oven, the delectable aroma of poultry fat mingled with matzo wafts from our kitchen. Goose fat is traditional and especially loved for its richness, but other poultry fat works just as well. It can also be made as a vegetarian dish by using oil. This savory Schalet is a wonderful side dish to almost any meal, but it is most known for its place at the Passover table.
2 tablespoons duck, goose, or chicken fat or neutral-flavored oil, divided
6 sheets matzo
4 large eggs, at room temperature
3 tablespoons matzo meal
⅓ cup neutral-flavored oil
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground white or black pepper
½ teaspoon ground nutmeg
½ medium-size yellow onion, finely chopped
1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Grease a 1½- to 2-quart casserole with 1 tablespoon of the fat or oil.
2. Break the matzo into 1-inch pieces and drop into a colander, set in the sink. Wet the matzo thoroughly with lukewarm water and let it sit for 5 minutes.
3. Press down on the wet matzo with your hands to drain out all the water. Transfer the drained matzo to a large bowl.
4. Beat the eggs in a small bowl. Add the beaten eggs, matzo meal, oil, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and chopped onion to the matzo. Mix well.
5. Pour the mixture into the greased casserole dish. Distribute the remaining 1 tablespoon fat over the top of the dish. Transfer to the oven and bake for 40 to 50 minutes, or until golden, but don’t overbake, as that will dry out the Schalet.
6. To serve, cut into 2-inch squares while still warm.
Noodle Schalet Nudelschalet
| MAKES 12 (3-INCH) SQUARES | M · P |
This traditional Schalet is a simple and comforting baked savory noodle dish that is meant, like so many German dishes, to accompany a roast that has a tasty gravy served over it. Unlike many other similarly baked Jewish dishes, it does not contain dairy, nor is it sweet. It is one of the many recipes in this book that rely on the use of duck or goose fat as shortening. Of course, if you wish to prepare this as a vegetarian or parve dish, omit the poultry fat and use oil instead.
¼ cup plus 4 teaspoons duck, goose, or chicken fat or neutral-flavored oil, divided
2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided
1 (12-ounce) package wide egg noodles
3 large eggs
¼ teaspoon ground white or black pepper, or to taste (optional)
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a 9 x 12-inch baking dish with 2 teaspoons of the fat.
2. Add 1 teaspoon of the salt to a large pot of water, bring to a boil over high heat, add the noodles, and boil for 10 minutes. Drain the noodles in a colander and transfer to a medium-size bowl.
3. In a small bowl, whisk the eggs until they are foamy and then add them to the noodles. Add the ¼ cup fat, the remaining 1 teaspoon salt, and the pepper and stir well to combine.
4. Transfer the noodle mixture to the greased baking dish. Distribute the remaining 2 teaspoons fat over the top. Place in the center of the oven and bake for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the top is golden brown.
5. Cut into 3-inch squares and serve warm.
Twice-Baked Potato Schalet Kartoffelschalet
| SERVES 10 TO 12 | P |
This savory Schalet is unusual in the world of kugels, in that it is baked twice. After the first baking, it is removed from the oven and broken up with a spoon so that the golden crust gets chopped up and incorporated back into the mixture. The result is a baked dish of earthy-tasting, grated potato with a lot of golden bits of crust scattered throughout. The baked crust has a tantalizing crunch, while the interior remains moist. We have adapted this recipe from one by our old family friend, the late Jules Michel. His version was published in Recipes Remembered, the cookbook published in 1976 by the Sisterhood of Congregation Habonim, a German-Jewish synagogue in New York City.
¼ cup neutral-flavor oil, divided
¼ cup white vinegar
1 cup water
4 pounds potatoes, preferably russets, peeled
1 large onion
2 teaspoons kosher salt
¼ teaspoon ground black or white pepper
½ cup matzo meal or all-purpose flour
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease the sides and bottom of a 9 x 13-inch or somewhat smaller baking dish, preferably glass, with 2 tablespoons of the oil.
2. Pour the vinegar and water into a large bowl you will use for the grated potato. Grate the potatoes either in a food processor or with a box grater:
If you are using a food processor: Use the steel blade. Cut the potatoes into 1-inch pieces and place enough pieces into the bowl of the processor to just reach the top of the blade. Pulse for 30 seconds, or so. There should be finely grated potato without any large pieces remaining. Remove the steel blade (for safety), then spoon or pour the grated potato into the bowl with the vinegar water, and continue with the remaining potatoes until they have all been grated.
If you are using a box grater: Leave the potatoes whole. Use the side of the box grater with the second to smallest hole size to grate all the potatoes into the bowl with the vinegar water.
3. Working in batches, pour some of the grated potato into a muslin bag, onto a flat cotton kitchen towel, or onto several layers of cheesecloth cut into 18-inch lengths or folded and layered on top of each other. Twist the top of the muslin bag, or gather the ends of the kitchen towel or cheesecloth together and twist, squeezing the fabric to press out as much water as possible. Put the potatoes into a clean large bowl and process the remaining potatoes in the same fashion.
4. Grate the onion in the same manner as the potatoes, using either a food processor or a box grater.
5. Add the grated onion, salt, pepper, and matzo meal, or flour if you are using that, to the bowl of grated potato and mix to combine. Add the eggs and mix well.
6. Pour the mixture into the greased baking dish and bake for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the edges are golden brown. Remove the Schalet from the oven, let it cool slightly, and then spoon out the entire mixture, crust and all, into a mixing bowl. Using a large spoon, chop up the Schalet and stir to combine, incorporating the golden brown crust into the rest of the mixture.
7. Grease the baking dish with the remaining 2 tablespoons oil and return the potato mixture to it. Return the Schalet to the oven for another 30 minutes, or until golden brown. Serve hot.
Almond Macaroons Makronen
| MAKES 30 MACAROONS | P |
Macaroons are in the same family as meringues, in that they are egg white–based confections, but with the addition of nuts. They are a mainstay of Passover, well suited in that they are naturally flour free. Using blanched almonds (which have had the skins removed) will result in a paler macaroon. Commercially, both sliced and slivered blanched almonds are commonly available. It is also fine to use nuts with the skins left on; the macaroons will simply be dotted with dark flecks and have a slightly stronger almond flavor. The leftover egg yolks may be saved for other uses, such as Wine Cream or Wine Sauce.
1¼ cups (6 ounces) almonds, preferably blanched
2 large egg whites, at room temperature
½ cup (4 ounces) confectioners’ sugar, sifted
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Finely grated zest of ½ small lemon, preferably organic
1. Preheat the oven to 250°F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.
2. Grind the almonds to a fine consistency in a food processor or nut grinder. Set aside.
3. In the bowl of a stand mixer or in a mixing bowl with a handheld mixer, beat the egg whites until soft peaks begin to form. Gradually add the confectioners’ sugar, a spoonful at a time, while beating, and then add the lemon juice. Fold the ground almonds and lemon zest into the egg mixture.
4. Using a pastry bag fitted with a ½- or ¾-inch tip (or using a zip-top plastic bag with a ½-inch piece cut off one of the bottom corners), pipe the mixture into rounds about 1½ inches in diameter onto the prepared baking sheets, leaving 1 inch between each one. Alternatively, you can drop a heaping teaspoonful of the mixture onto the baking sheets.
5. Bake for 50 minutes, or until the macaroons are firm and pale golden at the edges and on the bottom. Turn off the oven and leave them inside until the oven has cooled completely (allowing them to become crisper). Store in a covered cookie tin.
Coconut Macaroons Kokosnussmakronen
| MAKES 24 TO 30 MACAROONS | P |
While almond macaroons are the more common version in Germany, these coconut macaroons are wonderful—moist and flavorful, and very simple to make. A mainstay of Passover, coconut macaroons can be enjoyed any time of year. Using good-quality coconut makes a big difference with these macaroons! We prefer to buy coconut in bulk, so we can see and smell the quality—look for shredded coconut that is fragrant and plump (not too dried out). The leftover egg yolks may be saved for other uses, such as Wine Cream or Wine Sauce.
2 large egg whites, at room temperature
⅜ cup (3 ounces) sugar, divided
1¼ cups (4 ounces) shredded unsweetened coconut
1. Preheat the oven to 250°F. Line 2 cookie sheets with parchment paper.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer or in a mixing bowl with a handheld mixer, beat the egg whites until soft peaks begin to form. Slowly add two-thirds of the sugar, while beating, until the mixture is stiff and shiny.
3. In a small bowl, combine the remaining one-third sugar with the coconut. Fold the mixture into the egg whites.
4. Using a pastry bag fitted with a ½- or ¾-inch tip (or using a zip-top plastic bag with a ½-inch piece cut off one of the bottom corners), pipe the mixture into rounds about 1½ inches in diameter onto the prepared baking sheets, leaving 1 inch between each one. Alternatively, you can drop a tablespoonful of the mixture onto the baking sheets.
5. Bake until the macaroons are dry, about 45 minutes. When they are ready, they will come off the parchment easily. Turn off the heat and keep them in the oven, with the door shut, until they have cooled completely. Store in a covered cookie tin.
Cinnamon Stars Zimtsterne
| MAKES ABOUT 30 COOKIES | P |
Although these cookies are a typical German Christmas sweet, they also have a Jewish history. According to food writer Gil Marks in his book The World of Jewish Desserts, “[Cinnamon stars] are also called ‘first stars’ (Erstesternen), a reference to the heavenly signs indicating the end of a fast day. They are traditionally served by German Jews at the meal following Yom Kippur.” Although our family recipe varies slightly from Gil Marks’s, they are the same spicy, flourless cookies made of beaten egg whites, confectioners’ sugar, and ground nuts, and are similar to nut macaroons. These are thick cookies, both crunchy and chewy, and they keep for a long time stored in a cookie tin. You can adjust the level of spice to suit your taste.
Please note that this dough is rather stiff and sticky and can be quite tricky to roll out. Here we roll the dough between sheets of wax paper—and also liberally sprinkle confectioners’ sugar over all the surfaces—in an effort to prevent the dough from sticking. If star-shaped cookie cutters prove too difficult to work with because of the delicate nature of the shape, feel free to use a round, or other shape, cookie cutter.
2 large egg whites, at room temperature
1¾ cups confectioners’ sugar, sifted, plus more for dusting
8 ounces (about 1½ cups) almonds
1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground ginger or cloves (optional)
1. With clean, dry beaters, beat the egg whites in a mixing bowl until soft peaks begin to form. Very slowly, add the confectioners’ sugar while beating. Continue beating until the mixture, now a meringue, is glossy and thick. Spoon about one-fourth of the meringue into a small bowl and set aside to use as a cookie topping.
2. Process the nuts in a nut grinder or food processor until finely ground, and then add the cinnamon and spices, if desired. Add the nut mixture to the larger bowl of meringue, and gently fold to incorporate into a stiff dough.
3. Wrap the dough with wax paper and chill in the refrigerator for 30 to 60 minutes.
4. Preheat the oven to 300°F. Line 2 cookie sheets with parchment paper.
5. Spread out a piece of wax paper on your work surface and sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar. Put the dough on the paper and flatten it slightly with your hands. Sprinkle the top of the dough with additional confectioners’ sugar and cover with another piece of wax paper. Using a rolling pin on top of the paper, roll out the dough to about ¼ inch thick.
6. Peel off the top layer of paper, sprinkle with additional confectioners’ sugar on the rolled-out dough, and replace the paper. Carefully pick up from the bottom and flip the dough over. Remove the paper that is now on top, and sprinkle confectioners’ sugar on the dough.
7. Using a 2- or 2½-inch star-shaped (or other shape if you prefer) cookie cutter, press out cookies from the dough. Dip the cookie cutter into a bowl of cold water periodically to prevent it from getting clogged. Carefully lift each cookie with a spatula and place on the prepared cookie sheet. Space the cookies 1 to 2 inches apart. Continue with the remaining dough, rerolling the scraps to make more cookies.
8. Using a teaspoon, drop a small dollop of the reserved meringue onto the center of each cookie, then carefully spread it to cover the top. Try to avoid having any meringue drip over the edges of the cookies.
9. Bake the cookies until they are set but not yet browned, about 5 minutes. Let cool slightly on the cookie sheets, and then transfer to a wire rack. When they are completely cooled, store in a sealed cookie tin, where they will keep for several weeks.
Ours is a story of continuity and discontinuity. It is a story of community and individuals within that community. In the here and now we cling to the mundane, and yet our tale is far from mundane. We are visiting Herta Bloch. For me, this story takes place in a visually stunning setting, but also one with a very personal history, as this is the same block I grew up on. Just across the river, the cliffs of the Palisades of New Jersey drop straight down to the Hudson River with the George Washington Bridge as an icon spanning the scene. In my mind’s eye, I can also see the blue lights of Bill Miller’s Riviera, a nightclub that clung to the top of the cliff in New Jersey right across from my apartment building, until it closed in 1953. The lights screamed out in the night sky.
It is easy to get dramatic with memory. My building was a few houses down the hill from Herta’s and I walked this hill four times a day every day during grade school, because we came home for lunch in those days. The view of that landscape is burned into my brain so strongly that its imagery has made its way into my art. It is now 2011, and it is startling to be back here, in that all the buildings and streets look the same as they did during my childhood.
Herta had just celebrated her ninety-second birthday when we first visited her. She was almost a generation older than me. “What can you do about age?” she asks. “Accept it.” Charging around her spacious apartment with its majestic view of the Hudson River and George Washington Bridge, Herta is bright-eyed, cheerful, and vibrant. Time has been good to her. We are here to learn how to bake Krokerle—the untranslatable name alone piqued our interest. It is a cookie that is unique to her German-Jewish family, though we could see it resembles numerous spicy German cookies that are eaten during the Christmas season. It was baked by her mother and exists in Herta’s archive of family recipes.
We are surprised, and find it hilarious when Herta says, “I have never made these cookies before.” We are here to learn from the wisdom of an old master, only to discover it is her first time! On second thought, we realize it is great, as it adds to the living quality of the food that the “old-timer” is learning to make her mother’s recipe for the first time, because of our visit. In fact, the recipe skipped a generation, passing from grandmother to granddaughter—as it is Marion, Herta’s daughter, who bakes the Krokerle in the family. And while the resulting cookies we baked that day were not entirely successful because of her unfamiliarity with the recipe, we wouldn’t have traded the experience of baking alongside Herta for anything. Her generosity of spirit and confident manner of navigating her compact kitchen with fluid movements were a joy for us. (On a side note, we later clarified the recipe with Marion and have since made it many times with great success. The recipe follows.)
Herta carried within her the traditions and the food of the culture we are exploring, yet she was a thoroughly modern woman. As a young immigrant she, like many of the other single immigrant women like her, worked as a nanny for years, often being exploited and overworked. She met her man, Alfred, who then went off to war for three years. After he returned and they married in 1946, she worked alongside him in the kosher butcher and sausage shop they owned, while also raising three children. She knew practically everyone in the community, because almost everyone came into Bloch & Falk to buy their sausages and smoked meat. When my parents moved across the river to New Jersey in 1954, they journeyed back to the old neighborhood regularly for the provisions they relied upon. After my father died in 1983, my brother would stop there to shop for my mother right up until 1992, when the shop closed. It was an easy stop heading home from work on his way to the George Washington Bridge.
Today, that food feels so thoroughly gone. People still talk about it, in a yearning tone. Herta shrugs off the suggestion that someone, somewhere might make a similar product. “Ah, it would be much too expensive to do it the way Alfred made it. And besides, no one knows how to do it.” The recipes exist. Their future is unknown.
Not only did Herta embody the memories of Bloch & Falk, but she was also a fine cook and baker, carrying on the traditions of her mother and grandmother. Her daughter is a devotee of many of Herta’s recipes, and has assembled a booklet of them, including her Berches, which she baked every week despite its availability in the bakeries of the neighborhood. Some of her recipes are adaptations to her contemporary world, such as the pineapple in her cheesecake. Hers is a collection of recipes that are alive to the world she inhabited. Like all cooking traditions, they carry the past into the present.
Herta died in 2015 on the day after Christmas at the age of ninety-four.
GABY
Spiced Chocolate Hazelnut Cookies Krokerle
| MAKES 45 TO 65 COOKIES | P |
This is a chocolate spice cookie with yummy roasted hazelnuts and iced with a sweet-tart lemon glaze. The recipe, from Herta and Marion Bloch, is traditionally baked by their family as a Hanukkah treat. The Christmas cookie tradition in Germany is widespread and includes many varieties. It is so pervasive, as both a seasonal and a cultural tradition, that it was naturally adopted by Jews. There are innumerable varieties of spice cookies (with the most famous being Lebkuchen), and Krokerle fall into this category. The recipe does not contain dairy, so Krokerle are parve—and therefore, also naturally low in fat. The size of these cookies is variable—you may choose to form them with a teaspoon for smaller cookies or a tablespoon for larger ones. Just be sure not to mix sizes, so they will all bake in the same length of time.
COOKIES
Neutral-flavor oil for greasing the pan, if needed
8 ounces hazelnuts
4 large eggs
1½ cups granulated sugar
2¾ cups all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon ground cloves, cinnamon, or nutmeg, or a combination
¼ cup Dutch-process cocoa
2 ounces brandy or whiskey
LEMON GLAZE
1½ cups confectioners’ sugar, sifted
1½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Making the cookies
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line 3 baking sheets with parchment paper or grease with neutral-flavored oil.
2. Spread the hazelnuts on a baking sheet and toast in the oven for about 10 minutes, or until you start to smell them. Be careful not to let them burn. Immediately remove them from the oven and spread on a clean kitchen towel. Wrap the four corners of the towel over the top and let sit for a few minutes—the steam will help loosen the nut skins. Roll the nuts around in the towel—most of the nuts will become skinless. Coarsely chop and set aside.
3. In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs and granulated sugar until light and foamy.
4. In a separate bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, spices, and cocoa. Stir the dry ingredients into the egg and sugar mixture. Add the brandy and the nuts and stir to combine.
5. Drop by teaspoonfuls or tablespoonfuls onto the prepared baking sheets, 2 inches apart. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes, or until lightly browned. Remove from the oven and place on a rack to cool.
Making the glaze
6. Combine the confectioners’ sugar and lemon juice in a small bowl and stir until smooth. Add a drop of water if the glaze is too thick.
7. While the cookies are still warm, drizzle each one with a small spoonful of glaze. Let cool.
Haman
| MAKES ABOUT 24 (5-INCH) PASTRIES | D |
Every Jewish cuisine has a version of Purim cookies that represent Haman, the villain of the story of Esther. Although hamantaschen (Eastern European) are probably the most widely known, in Germany the most popular were Hamans, pastry that is shaped like gingerbread men. Bready and not too sweet, Hamans are delicately flavored with sugar and lemon zest. Kids will love them, but they also make for a nice late-morning or afternoon snack with tea or coffee.
This recipe requires a cookie cutter. We use a 5-inch gingerbread man shape.
DOUGH
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
3½ cups (1 pound) all-purpose flour
¾ cup whole milk, divided
1 envelope (2¼ teaspoons) active dry yeast
½ teaspoon plus ½ cup sugar
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
2 teaspoons grated lemon zest, preferably organic
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon neutral-flavor oil for greasing the bowl
Decoration
1 egg, beaten
Dried currants or raisins, chocolate chips, chopped nuts, candied orange or lemon peel, small candies (optional)
Granulated or decorating sugar (optional)
Making the dough
1. Melt the butter in a small pot over low heat. Set aside and let cool.
2. Put the flour in a shallow bowl or on a large board. Make a well in the center.
3. Warm ¼ cup of the milk in a small pot over very low heat on the stove (or for 15 seconds in a microwave) until it is barely lukewarm (when you can comfortably dip your knuckle into it). In a small bowl, combine the yeast, lukewarm milk, and ½ teaspoon of the sugar. Stir to wet the yeast. When it begins to bubble, place it in the well of flour and wait for it to bubble vigorously, which may take up to 10 minutes.
4. Add the remaining ½ cup milk to the cooled, melted butter.
5. When the yeast is bubbling vigorously, add the milk and butter mixture, beaten eggs, remaining ½ cup sugar, lemon zest, and vanilla to the well in the flour. Mix all the ingredients together, incorporating the flour until everything is well blended.
6. Knead the dough with your hands. It will be very gooey at first, but push the dough off your fingers and continue blending until the dough becomes firmer and you are able to form it into a ball. Move the dough to a floured board (if it is not already there) and knead by repeatedly pushing with your palms and folding the sides of the dough up. The dough will be ready when it is springy and you can form a smooth ball.
7. Grease a bowl with neutral-flavored oil, place the ball of dough in it, and cover it with a damp kitchen towel. Place the bowl in a warm spot to rise. You can preheat your oven to its lowest setting (about 175°F), turn off the oven, and then place the dough in the oven with the door slightly ajar. Other options are to put the dough on a warm radiator or even under a table lamp. Let sit until the dough doubles in size, 1 to 2 hours.
8. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.
9. After the dough has risen, roll it out on a well-floured breadboard or counter. Roll the dough to a thickness of about ¼ inch. Using a 5-inch cookie cutter in the shape of a gingerbread man, cut out pastries. Place each pastry on the prepared baking sheets, leaving about 1 inch of space in between. Gather the leftover scraps of dough, knead into a ball, reroll, and cut out more pastries, continuing until all the dough has been used.
Decorating the cookies
10. Brush the Hamans with the beaten egg. Decorate each to make a face and buttons, or however you wish. Sprinkle each with sugar, if desired. Cover the baking sheets with a damp kitchen towel and put in a warm place for 15 to 20 minutes. The Hamans may rise slightly.
11. Preheat the oven to 325°F.
12. Bake the Hamans for 9 to 12 minutes, or until they are puffed up and slightly golden. Keep an eye on them to make sure they don’t burn on the bottom. Cool on a wire rack. Store in a covered cookie tin.
Knee Doughnuts Knieküchlein
| MAKES 24 DOUGHNUTS | D |
Hanukkah is a holiday that celebrates the miracle of the Maccabees, who, the story goes, kept a one-day supply of lamp oil burning for eight days. In celebration of this miracle, foods fried in oil are eaten during the holiday. In German-Jewish cuisine, they are often the yeast doughnuts filled with fruit jam known as Krapfen, or Berliner, which are also widely eaten by non-Jewish Germans, especially during New Year celebrations. In Israel, these same doughnuts, called sufganiyot, are also eaten for Hanukkah.
However, we especially like these Hanukkah confections, called knee doughnuts. They were introduced to us by the historian Steve Lowenstein. His great-aunt learned how to make these somewhat eccentric pastries from farmwomen in her small Franconian town. They are a great example of the direct transmission of a recipe from German women to their Jewish neighbors in the early twentieth century. A group of women gathered to make the doughnuts together. The first step was always to wash their knees! Then, they brought the prepared yeast dough out to a gathering spot where they all sat together and, stretching balls of dough over their clean knees, formed the shape of the doughnuts before frying them in hot oil. We laughed in wonder when he told the story, but we have since learned that the tradition continues and contemporary recipes can be found in Germany.
Knee doughnuts have an old-fashioned taste—not too sweet or rich, but satisfying in their fried, doughy goodness. If you’d rather not wash your knees, we find it is just as effective to stretch the dough over the back of your hand. You can also simply form the doughnuts on a flat surface.
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 cups (1.1 pound) all-purpose flour
¾ cup whole milk, divided
1 envelope (2¼ teaspoons) active dry yeast
½ teaspoon plus ½ cup granulated sugar
1 large egg, beaten
Zest of 1 lemon, preferably organic
Pinch of salt
4 cups neutral-flavored oil
Confectioners’ sugar, for decorating
1. Melt the butter in a pot over low heat or in the microwave. Set aside and let cool.
2. Put the flour in a shallow bowl or on a large board. Make a well in the center.
3. Warm ¼ cup of the milk in a small pot over very low heat on the stove (or for 15 seconds in a microwave) until it is barely lukewarm (when you can comfortably dip your knuckle into it). In a small bowl, combine the yeast, lukewarm milk, and ½ teaspoon of the sugar. Stir to wet the yeast. When it begins to bubble, place it in the well of the flour and wait for it to bubble vigorously, which may take up to 10 minutes.
4. Add the remaining ½ cup milk to the cooled, melted butter.
5. When the yeast is bubbling vigorously, add the milk and butter mixture, beaten egg, ½ cup sugar, lemon zest, and salt to the well in the flour. Mix all the ingredients together, until everything is incorporated.
6. Knead the dough with your hands. It will be very gooey at first, but push the dough off your fingers and continue blending until the dough becomes firmer and you are able to form it into a ball. Move the dough to a floured board (if it is not already there) and knead by repeatedly pushing with your palms and folding the sides of the dough up. The dough will be ready when it is springy and you can form a smooth ball.
7. Flour a flat surface, such as a wooden board. Pull small pieces of dough off the large ball, and form golf ball–size balls (1½ inches across). Place them on the floured surface. When all of the dough has been used (about 24 balls in total), cover with a damp kitchen towel and place in a warm spot to rise. You can preheat your oven to its lowest setting (about 175°F), turn off the oven, and then place the dough in the oven with the door slightly ajar. Other options are to put the dough on a warm radiator or even under a table lamp. Let the balls of dough rise and double in size, about 1 hour.
8. When the balls of dough have doubled in size, take one ball at a time and pull it over your knee (or fist), stretching the center until it is thin, leaving a raised rim all around (something like a Frisbee). Alternatively, lay the ball on a flat surface and stretch the center, leaving a raised rim all around. Continue to shape all the balls and lay the finished doughnuts on a plate.
9. Heat the oil in a 2- or 3-quart pot. You need about 2 inches of oil in the pot—don’t use a pot that is too large, or the oil will be too shallow. The oil is ready when a tiny piece of dough thrown into the pot immediately sizzles and browns.
10. Pick up the doughnuts one at a time with kitchen tongs and drop each into the oil. When the bottom of the doughnut turns golden brown—which will take less than a minute—turn it and brown the second side. As the oil continues to get hotter, the doughnuts will fry quicker, so keep your eye on them. When a doughnut is done, remove it from the oil and drain on a plate lined with paper towels. When drained of oil, move the doughnuts to a second, clean plate, and sprinkle confectioners’ sugar through a fine sieve on top. Continue frying all the doughnuts.
11. Serve as soon as possible after frying.
Matzo Fritters Grimsele
| SERVES 8 | P |
These fritters are the uniquely German-Jewish Passover dessert. As spelled here, they are pronounced grim-se-leh in the south German manner. A more north German spelling is Grimseln, with a clipped pronunciation to match. Under the crispy exterior lies an interior dotted with little surprise bites of almonds and raisins. As with most fried foods, they are ideally eaten immediately after frying while still hot! However, when serving a large number of people at a seder, when the logistics of frying so many fritters at the last minute would be overwhelming, they can certainly be made ahead and kept warm in a low oven. Some people serve these fritters as lunch, or even dinner, during the week of Pesach. In addition to the traditional sauces, either raspberry or wine, they can be served with a sprinkling of confectioners’ sugar or any type of fruit jam. This recipe can easily be divided to make a smaller quantity.
1 (1-pound) box matzo
6 large eggs, lightly beaten
⅓ cup granulated sugar
½ cup blanched, slivered almonds, lightly chopped
1 cup golden or black raisins
Grated zest of 1 lemon, preferably organic
½ teaspoon grated nutmeg
Neutral-flavored oil, such as canola, for frying
Confectioners’ sugar (optional)
Raspberry Sauce, Wine Sauce, or fruit jam, for serving (optional)
1. Crumble the matzo into bite-size pieces in a large, heat-proof bowl. Pour warm water over the matzo to cover. Let sit for 10 minutes, or until soft.
2. Place a large colander in the sink and turn out the matzo into it. Press down with your hands, or with a small plate placed directly on top of the matzo, to drain out as much of the water as possible. Transfer the matzo to a large mixing bowl.
3. Add the eggs, granulated sugar, almonds, raisins, lemon zest, and nutmeg, to the matzo and mix to incorporate.
4. Heat a large, deep frying pan over medium-high heat. Pour ¼ inch of oil into the pan and heat until the oil is hot (test the temperature of the oil by adding a pea-size pinch of mixture to the pan—if it sizzles, the oil is hot enough).
5. Shape the mixture into an oval fritter by pressing some between 2 tablespoons and then slip it into the hot oil. Repeat with as many fritters as will fit in the pan. Fry the fritters over medium-high heat until golden brown on the bottom, 2 to 3 minutes. If the fritters are getting too dark, decrease the heat to medium. Turn the fritters over and fry for an additional 1 to 2 minutes on the second side, or until golden. Drain on a plate lined with paper towels. Continue frying the fritters in batches until all the matzo mixture is used, adding more oil to the pan as needed.
6. Eat hot. It’s best to eat immediately, but the fritters can be kept hot in a low oven until you are ready to serve them. Dust with confectioners’ sugar, if desired, and serve with your choice of accompaniments.
Wine Sauce Weinsauce
| MAKES 1½ CUPS | P |
Talking with Shulamit Reinharz at her Brandeis University office in preparation for writing this book, we discovered that both of her parents were German-Jewish. This recipe comes from her mother. Wine sauce is such a banner dish, as it accompanies the Pesach dessert Grimsele, as well as many others. We like this recipe because it does not use too many eggs. Grimsele are eaten during a period of time when eggs dominate the meal, and this is a lighter approach that still retains the punchy wine and lemon flavor.
1 tablespoon potato starch
½ cup water
Zest of 1 small lemon, preferably organic
1 cup Riesling or another German white wine
3 tablespoons sugar
2 egg yolks, at room temperature
1. Combine the potato flour and water in a saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat.
2. Add the lemon zest, white wine, and sugar to the potato starch mix, and whisk to prevent lumps from forming while heating the mixture to the boiling point. Remove from the stove and continue whisking for a minute or two while the sauce cools. Let the sauce sit until it is lukewarm.
3. Beat the egg yolks in a medium-size bowl. Slowly pour the wine mixture over the beaten egg yolks while whisking constantly. Pour the mixture back into the pot, place over medium-low heat, and whisk until it thickens, a couple of minutes. Keep the sauce warm over very low heat until serving.
Dried Fruit Compote Gemischtes Kompott
| SERVES 20 | P |
This dish is more a preparation than a formal recipe, and it is very flexible. The charm of this recipe is its light, colorful, and flavorful mix that delights the palate without excess sweetness—though the level of sweetness is adjustable to the cook’s taste. We find that a minimum of sugar makes for a refreshing compote, one that allows the flavors of the fruit to shine, and is especially welcome at the end of a large holiday meal such as a seder, which is when we traditionally serve it. In this preparation, made annually in our household by Donald Gropman for Pesach, all of the criteria are met. It is a familiar and welcome sight, the bowl of beautiful deep purple, orange, and yellow fruits floating in a spice-scented liquid. Of course, compote can be made at any time of the year!
Finally, while this recipe is extremely simple, please note that it must be made at least one day, if not two, before serving.
1½–2 pounds dried fruit in any combination, including pitted prunes, apricots, raisins (golden or black), peaches, and pears*
1 teaspoon sugar
1 cinnamon stick
A few cloves
1 star anise (optional)
1 lemon (preferably organic), unpeeled and thinly sliced
1. Bring a kettle of water to a boil over high heat. Cut the apricots in half. Cut the peaches and pears into bite-size pieces.
2. Use a large nonreactive bowl (ceramic, glass, or stainless steel). Put the sugar, cinnamon, cloves, and star anise, if desired, in the bottom of the bowl. Lay the lemon slices down next. Add all the dried fruit.
3. Pour enough boiling water into the bowl to cover the fruit. Gently stir to dissolve the sugar. Cover the bowl with a large pot lid or aluminum foil and let sit at room temperature overnight.
4. The next morning, check the fruit. If it has plumped up and risen over the water level, add more water—any temperature—to cover the fruit. Let the bowl sit out (covered or uncovered at this point) until the fruit has been soaking for a total of 24 hours. Keep an eye on the liquid, adding more water as needed.
5. After 24 hours, taste the liquid for sweetness. If additional sugar is needed, remove about ¼ cup of the liquid from the bowl, warm it in a pot on the stove or in the microwave, and add between 1 teaspoon and 1 tablespoon sugar. Stir to dissolve the sugar and return the liquid to the bowl of fruit.
6. Transfer the compote—fruit and liquid—to a large jar or bowl with a lid (or a couple of smaller ones), preferably glass. Store in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
7. Serve the compote on its own, for dessert or as part of a meal. Or serve alongside other desserts, such as Grimsele, cake, or ice cream.
*Note: Mix and match using the fruits of your choice. In our family, prunes and apricots are a must. About ½ cup of raisins is a good amount, so that they dot the mixture without overpowering the flavor. Dried peaches and pears add complex flavors and visual appeal. We find that sourcing good-quality dried fruits is best done at health food stores and international groceries, where they are often available in bulk bins. In the Boston area, we find wonderful choices at well-stocked Armenian stores in Watertown and in New York City at the Middle Eastern shop Kalustyan’s. We opt, whenever possible, to buy organically grown dried fruits.
Chestnut Crème Kastaniencreme
| SERVES 6 | D |
This dessert crème has the most earthy, creamy, and rich taste imaginable. Although the chestnuts are quite starchy and dense, the whipped cream makes them fluffy and ethereal. The tiny spikes of rum and vanilla heighten the flavors and make it taste fancy. We have used precooked, peeled Italian chestnuts that are sold in a vacuum-packed pouch, jar, or can with wonderful results. However, if you can’t find them, or prefer to prepare your own fresh chestnuts, see the note below for instructions.
5¼ ounces cooked chestnuts, packaged or fresh*
¾ cup whole milk, divided
¼ cup water
1 tablespoon agar-agar flakes**
½ cup sugar
2 large egg yolks, at room temperature (whites reserved for another use)
1 tablespoon dark or light rum
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup heavy cream
1. In a heavy-bottomed pot, simmer the chestnuts in ½ cup of the milk over low heat for 10 to 12 minutes, until the milk is absorbed into the chestnuts. With a mixing spoon, break up the chestnuts into pieces as they become softer.
2. Combine the water and agar-agar in a small pot. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve. Lower the heat and simmer for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Let the mixture sit until cool enough to handle.
3. Transfer the chestnut-milk mixture to a food processor along with the remaining ¼ cup milk, sugar, egg yolks, rum, vanilla, and agar-agar mixture. Process until very smooth.
4. Pour the chestnut mixture into a medium-size cooking pot. Place over medium heat, stirring, for 2 minutes. Transfer to a large mixing bowl and let cool for 30 minutes.
5. In a mixing bowl with a handheld mixer, whip the heavy cream until stiff peaks form. Fold into the chestnut mixture. Transfer to a 4-cup serving bowl or 6 individual dessert cups. Cover and chill until set, at least 2 hours or overnight.
6. Serve cold.
*Note: To prepare fresh chestnuts, use ½ pound of fresh chestnuts in the shell. Preheat the oven to 300°F. Using a sharp paring knife, make a slit in the shape of an “x” on top of each chestnut. Place them on a rack and bake until the chestnuts are soft, 20 to 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool until you can handle them, about 15 minutes. Remove both the hard outer and the thin inner shells, using a paring knife, if needed.
**Note: Agar-agar, which is used to gel ingredients, is derived from seaweed and is both vegetarian and kosher. See the Resources page for locations to purchase. This recipe can also be made with an equal amount of gelatin instead of agar-agar, though it will then be a nonkosher dish.
Wine Cream Weincreme
| SERVES 4 TO 6 | D |
This recipe has always been viewed as a treasure in our family. Gaby’s grandmother Emma and her two daughters all made wine cream, and the page in the cookbook where it appears is appropriately spattered.
There are a few things to watch out for in making this dessert. When grating the lemon and orange rinds, be sure to use the fine holes on the grater, so the texture is less noticeable in the cream. Also, make sure the cooked mixture is quite cool before adding the whipped cream, so that the two parts will blend perfectly. Wine cream will come to the table looking quite ordinary, a light yellow pudding in a serving or dessert dish. But when the first spoonful reaches the lips, the light, wine-scented, lemony smooth cream is irresistible.
We have always made wine cream with gelatin. However, agar-agar, a traditional German-Jewish ingredient made from seaweed, works very well and is suitable for kosher or vegetarian cooks. The recipe is written with the option of using either. We find both versions equally good.
3 egg yolks
⅔ cup (5 ounces) sugar
Juice of 1 lemon
½ teaspoon lemon zest, preferably organic
Juice of 1 orange
½ teaspoon orange zest, preferably organic
⅔ cup white wine, such as Rhine or Moselle
1 tablespoon agar-agar flakes* or 1 envelope (2¼ teaspoons) gelatin
2 tablespoons cold water
1 cup heavy cream
Thin curls orange peel, for garnish (optional)
1. In a large bowl, combine the egg yolks and the sugar, beat well, and then add the lemon juice and zest, the orange juice and zest, and the wine. Transfer the mixture to the top of a double boiler or a heavy enameled pot.
2. If you are using agar-agar: In a small glass, dissolve the agar-agar in the cold water and set aside.
Bring the egg mixture to a boil over medium-low heat, stirring. Add the agar-agar mixture and bring it back to a boil, stirring. The agar-agar will dissolve in about 5 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and let cool.
If you are using gelatin: In a small glass, dissolve the gelatin in the cold water and set aside. Bring the egg mixture to a boil over medium-low heat, stirring. Add the gelatin mixture and bring the mixture back to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring. The gelatin will dissolve within 1 minute after boiling. Remove the pot from the heat and let cool.
3. Meanwhile, whip the cream in a medium-size bowl. When the egg mixture is cool, fold in the whipped cream and blend well.
4. Transfer the wine cream to a serving bowl or 4 to 6 individual serving dishes, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until set, at least 3 hours.
5. Decorate the top with thin curls of orange peel, if desired. Serve cold.
*Note: Agar-agar, which is used to gel ingredients, is derived from seaweed and is both vegetarian and kosher. See the Resources page for locations to purchase. This recipe can also be made with an equal amount of gelatin instead of agar-agar, though it will then be a nonkosher dish.
Rice Pudding with Cream and Strawberries Reis à la Trautmannsdorf
| SERVES 6 TO 8 | D |
This is a rich dessert that can be simply but elegantly decorated with strawberries. Named after a noble Austrian family, it was a great favorite of Jewish families in Germany. Feel free to substitute other berries, such as raspberries, blueberries, or blackberries.
1 pint berries, a few reserved for garnish
1 tablespoon agar-agar flakes*
2 tablespoons cold water
½ cup short- or medium-grain white rice
1 cup whole milk
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
⅓ cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon orange liqueur, such as Grand Marnier or Cointreau
1 cup heavy cream
1. Wash and hull the berries, if needed, and slice the strawberries into quarters. Set aside.
2. In a small glass, dissolve the agar-agar in the cold water and set aside.
3. Rinse the rice in cold water and drain in a strainer. Put it in a medium-size heavy-bottomed pot with the milk and salt. Cover the pot and cook over low heat, stirring frequently, for 15 minutes. Add the agar-agar mixture and stir to combine. Continue to cook for 5 more minutes. If the rice is not fully cooked but the milk has all been absorbed, add extra water, ¼ cup at a time, but no more than ½ cup total. Cook for another 5 minutes, or until the rice is tender.
4. Add the sugar, vanilla, and liqueur, and stir to mix. Remove the pot from the heat and let cool.
5. When the mixture is lukewarm, after about 30 minutes, fold in the berries.
6. Meanwhile, whip the cream in a medium-size bowl. When the rice mixture is cool, fold in the whipped cream and blend well.
7. Divide the mixture among 6 to 8 individual dessert cups or pour into a 6-cup serving bowl. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate until set, at least 2 hours or longer.
8. To serve, decorate with the reserved strawberries, either whole or sliced.
*Note: Agar-agar, which is used to gel ingredients, is derived from seaweed and is both vegetarian and kosher. See the Resources page for locations to purchase. This recipe can also be made with an equal amount of gelatin instead of agar-agar, though it will then be a nonkosher dish.
Meringue Cups with Berries Meringue Gebäck mit Beeren
| SERVES 8 TO 10 | D |
We are great fans of meringues, little puffs of sugary air. These cups take meringues a step further as they provide the base for a delicious berry filling and whipped cream. This recipe takes the classic pavlova and strawberries a step further, utilizing all the wonderful berries that grow in Germany, including red, black, and white currants, gooseberries, raspberries, blackberries, and blueberries. This is a summer dessert par excellence, when these berries are in season. Some of them are uncommon in the United States, but are becoming more readily available at local farmers’ markets and some grocery stores—they are worth seeking out!
Note that meringues can be difficult to bake in humid weather, so a crisp, dry day is perfect for baking them. The cups are created by piping the egg whites with a pastry bag fitted with a large metal or plastic tip. If you don’t have a pastry bag, you can easily improvise by putting the meringue into a 1-gallon resealable plastic bag and snipping off ½ inch from one of the bottom corners.
FILLING
1 pint (2 cups) mixed berries, such as strawberries, red, black, or white currants, gooseberries, raspberries, and blueberries
1 teaspoon granulated sugar, or more to taste
1 tablespoon Grand Marnier or other orange-flavored liqueur
4 egg whites, at room temperature
⅛ teaspoon cream of tartar
1 cup fine sugar*
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
WHIPPED CREAM
1 cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
1. Preheat the oven to 275°F. Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper.
Making the filling
2. Hull and stem the berries as needed; if gooseberries are used, top and tail them. Slice the larger berries (strawberries, large gooseberries) and place all the berries in a bowl. Add the granulated sugar and liqueur and gently toss to evenly coat the berries. Taste a berry and add more sugar if needed. Set aside to allow the berries to macerate; the sugar will draw out some of the juice.
Making the meringue cups
3. In a medium-size bowl, whip the egg whites with a hand mixer until frothy. Add the cream of tartar. Continue mixing until soft peaks form. Start adding the fine sugar, 2 tablespoons at a time. After the first addition of sugar, add the vanilla. Repeat twice more, whipping the mixture after each addition. Slowly add the rest of the sugar, while continuing to mix. Decrease the speed of the mixer to a low setting and continue whipping. The meringue should be quite stiff and glossy and smooth. You can rub a small bit between your thumb and index finger. If it is gritty, the sugar is not yet dissolved—continue whipping at low speed.
4. Spoon the meringue into a pastry bag fitted with a large (½- or ¾-inch) tip. Firmly twist the end of the bag so the mixture does not come out the top. Starting in one corner of the cookie sheet, gently squeeze the bag to form a circle between 2½ and 3 inches in diameter. Pipe the meringue in a spiral, ending in the middle to fill in the circle. Then pipe one layer along the outer edge of the circle to form a low cup. Continue making cups with the remaining meringue mixture; there will be between 8 and 10 cups in total. If there is any meringue left over, squeeze some dots of meringue between the cups to create mini cookies—these can be used decoratively on top of the dessert or they can be eaten separately.
5. Place the baking sheet in the middle of the oven and bake for 55 to 60 minutes, until they are dry. They may remain white or, if they are baked just a little longer, they will be slightly tan in color. Keep the oven door shut and leave them in the oven until they are completely cool, at least 30 minutes.
Making the whipped cream
6. Whip the cream with the granulated sugar until soft peaks form.
7. Place the meringue cups on a serving platter or individual plates. Spoon some whipped cream into each cup to fill. Spoon the berries with a little bit of the juice over the top. Serve immediately.
*Note: If you do not have fine sugar (this is not confectioners’, or powdered, sugar), you can easily make your own by putting 1 cup granulated (white) sugar in a food processor and pulsing for 1 to 2 seconds, about 3 times. The sugar will be fine.
Cheesecake with Butter Dough Käsekuchen mit Mürbeteig
| SERVES 8 TO 10 | D |
This version of cheesecake is both light and creamy, with a butter dough called Mürbeteig. It uses a combination of three of the German varieties of white cheese that are readily available in the United States. Quark brings a light tanginess; crème fraîche adds creaminess and richness; and the farmer cheese, very much like cottage cheese or ricotta, adds texture and body. The dough, which is only used on the bottom of the cake, is simple, yet can’t be beat for its buttery richness. For this recipe, simply prepare the ball of dough between one hour and one day ahead of when you want to bake the cake.
Note that since this cheesecake only uses dough on the bottom, there will be some left over. If you like, you can roll out the remaining dough and make a tiny tart. Pat the dough into a small (3- or 4-inch) greased soufflé dish or similar oven-safe dish. Fill it with sliced fruit such as apples, pears, peaches, or berries. Sprinkle with sugar, butter, and cinnamon. Bake the tart alongside the cheesecake—a small gift to the chef.
1 recipe Mürbeteig
Unsalted butter for greasing the pan
8 ounces farmer cheese
4 ounces crème fraîche
4 large eggs
⅓ cup sugar
Zest of ½ lemon, preferably organic
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1. Line a colander or sieve with a layer of cheesecloth and place over a bowl. Add the quark and let it sit for about 30 minutes, or until most of the liquid has drained off.
2. Remove the Mürbeteig from the refrigerator and let it soften so that it is flexible enough to roll out. This should take 15 to 30 minutes.
3. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Grease an 8-inch springform pan with butter.
4. When the dough is soft enough, roll it out to a thickness of about ¼ inch. Place the bottom of the springform pan over the dough, and cut around it with a sharp paring knife so that you have a round of dough that will fit into the bottom of the pan. Carefully transfer it to the cake pan bottom.
5. Process the farmer cheese in a food processor for a few seconds, or until smooth.
6. In a large bowl, combine the quark, crème fraîche, and farmer cheese, stirring until well blended. Add the eggs, sugar, lemon zest, and vanilla. Stir until well blended. Pour the cheese mixture on top of the dough and bake for 50 minutes. It should be slightly browned around the edges, and set in the middle. (Test with a toothpick or skewer in the middle of the cake. If the toothpick comes out clean it is set.)
7. Remove the pan from the oven and let it cool on a rack until the sides of the cake have shrunk slightly from the pan. Remove the sides of the springform. Run a long spatula or knife along the bottom of the cake, and gently transfer it to a platter or plate for serving.
Emperor’s Cake Kaisertorte
| SERVES 8 TO 10 | P · D |
This sumptuous nut-based sponge cake—which was baked by Rosa Rossheimer every year for Passover—was eagerly anticipated by everyone in her family. The recipe survived, even when Rosa herself did not, and was written on an onion-skin aerogram and mailed from Israel by Stephen’s sister Marie to him in the United States—a family legacy that traveled around the globe.
Kaisertorte is an unusual cake in that the batter is baked in two parts, with cooked apples added during the second round of baking. This is one of innumerable recipes in which German cookbooks quaintly instruct one to “beat the egg whites to snow”—in fact, the German word for beaten egg whites is Schnee, or snow. Although it is perhaps not the best-looking cake in town, Emperor’s Cake is ethereal—neither too rich nor too plain, and with an airy, nutty texture and a delicate apple flavor. It is a perfect finish to a seder meal, or any other.
Neutral-flavor oil or unsalted butter for greasing the pan
5 medium-size baking apples, such as Cortland (about 1½ pounds)
3 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon plus ⅔ cup (6 ounces) granulated sugar, divided
1¼ cups (6 ounces) blanched almonds*
8 large eggs, separated, at room temperature
Zest and juice of 1 lemon, preferably organic
2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar (optional)
Whipped cream, for serving (optional)
1. Preheat the oven to 275°F. Grease a 9-inch cake pan, preferably a springform, very well with oil or butter.
2. Peel and core the apples. Cut into thin slices, about 1⁄16 inch. Put the apples into a pot with the water. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon of the granulated sugar and gently toss to evenly coat the apples. Bring to a boil over high heat, then lower the heat, cover the pot, and simmer for about 3 minutes, until the apples are tender but not mushy. Remove the pot from the heat and set aside.
3. Grind the almonds in a nut grinder or food processor to the consistency of coarse sand.
4. Beat the egg yolks in a large bowl. Add the remaining ⅔ cup granulated sugar and continue beating until light and foamy. Stir the almonds, lemon zest, and lemon juice into the egg and sugar mixture.
Stephen Rossmer’s handwritten version of the recipe for Kaisertorte (Emperor’s Cake), his mother Rosa’s specialty for Passover.
5. Using clean, dry beaters in a separate large bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff. Gently fold the egg whites into the batter.
6. Pour three-fourths of the batter into the greased pan. Bake for 25 minutes.
7. Meanwhile, drain the cooked apples in a colander if there is liquid in the bottom of the pot.
8. Remove the cake from the oven after 25 minutes and increase the heat to 325°F. Working quickly, arrange the apples in an even layer across the top of the cake. Pour the remaining batter over the apples, spreading it gently with a spatula to create an even surface. Return the cake to the oven and bake for 30 minutes longer, or until the top is lightly browned and dry around the edges.
9. Remove the pan from the oven and place on a wire rack to cool. Note that as it cools, the cake will deflate in the middle! After 10 to 15 minutes, remove the sides of the springform pan. When the cake is cool to the touch, use a long spatula or two to gently move the cake to a serving plate.
10. Decorate the cake by dusting with sifted confectioners’ sugar, if desired. Serve as is, or accompanied by whipped cream.
*Note: Blanched almonds, which have had the skin removed, have a milder flavor and will also produce a lighter-colored cake. Unblanched almonds may also be used, though the cake will be flecked with dark brown and have a stronger almond taste. Slivered almonds, which are commonly sold in supermarkets, are generally blanched, and may be used for this recipe.
Matzo Coffee Matze Kaffee
| SERVES 1 | D |
Welcome to breakfast at Passover! Matzo coffee is prevalent in German-Jewish Passover traditions, and in many families even kids have it for breakfast. Because bread plays such a large role in German breakfasts, matzo offers an alternative during the eight days of Passover, when bread, or any risen dough, is verboten. This dish combines your morning coffee with a small breakfast, eaten almost like a bowl of cereal. The quantities are flexible, and you can use milk and sugar to suit your taste.
2 sheets matzo
1 cup strong coffee
1 teaspoon sugar, or to taste
Milk, to taste
Crumble the matzo into small pieces in a large cup. Add coffee to cover, leaving room for milk. Add the sugar and milk. Mix together and eat with a spoon. Drink the coffee remnants after the matzo is gone.
