The term home canning invokes images of cucumber pickles. While these are certainly part of the pickle universe, they are far from the whole. Pickling is simply a method of preserving by using salted brine, vinegars, or both. Salted water extracts water from the cells of produce, substituting salt, while vinegars lower the pH level. In the modern world, we add heat to kill residual bacteria while the ensuing cooling creates a vacuum in a sealed jar.
Not so long ago, barrels filled with seasoned pickling brine and floating cucumbers used to adorn small groceries. It was easy to pluck what you wanted, and off you went—fresh dill pickles ready for the eating. Life was simple back then!
Nearly every community has its favorite pickle recipes. Some are off the wall. Some sound delicious. I’m always on the lookout, and when my eye catches one that might have great value or is unique, I try it and sometimes improve it. If it turns out to be exceptional, I record the results. At other times, life tickles the creative. In a gourmet burger shop not long ago, I was asked if I would like a few jalapeño pepper slices on my cheeseburger. One bite later, I knew a quality pickling brine would improve the pepper, improve the burger, and, as simple as it was, be in this book. So I went to work. Pickles are some of the easiest recipes to produce and each will surpass the quality of commercially available counterparts while reaching heights one desires to achieve. Enjoy this medley.
Achar is the Hindi word for “pickle.” It’s very popular in the eastern and southern regions of the African continent because of an Indian influence and is possibly the oldest recorded pickle recipe in America dating back to early colonial times. The achar recipe was brought from India by early sea captains running with the trades from the Far East, around the Cape of Good Hope, and on to the little colonies of the New World. Greeted with open arms, there was plenty of need for such a pickle in colonial times. Without refrigeration, the dark cold winter months left tables barren of produce other than a few winter-hardy varieties. This pickle provided some of the nutrients lacking. A bowl of pickled vegetables graced the center of many a colonial dinner table. Smart matrons kept a large stoneware crock in the kitchen filled with pickling brine, and various vegetables were added as they became available. The popularity of achar was instantaneous and has never waned; the recipe has survived more than three hundred years.
This is an acidified water-bath recipe.
pH will be below 4.2; if above, something is incorrect. Vinegar with 5 percent acidity is critical; less might create dangerous pH conditions.
Recipe liquids will make 7 pint jars; pints and quarts are best suited.
One can make as many jars as desired.
1 cup canning salt |
3 quarts cold water |
3 carrots, peeled, trimmed to 4-inch lengths, and quartered lengthwise |
7 stalks celery, split lengthwise and cut into 3-1/2-inch lengths |
21 string beans, stems clipped and trimmed to less than 4 inches |
1 head cabbage, heart removed and cut into golf-ball-size chunks |
3 small cucumbers, ends trimmed, cut to 4-inch lengths and quartered |
1 cauliflower, broken into silver-dollar-size florets |
14 radishes |
3 small onions, peeled and quartered |
21 cloves garlic |
4 Brussels sprouts, halved |
5 cups cider vinegar |
2 teaspoons turmeric |
1/2 cup peeled and cut fresh ginger (1/2-inch-thick medallions) |
2 tablespoons whole yellow mustard seeds |
1/4 cup red pepper flakes |
To soak the vegetables, dissolve salt in the cold water. Place prepared vegetables in the solution and soak for 24 hours in the refrigerator or in a cool location; drain but do not rinse.
Start the next procedure by making sure each jar gets its fair share by placing one of each of the ten vegetables in each jar until all the vegetables are used or the jars are filled to the canning line and packed tight. Nothing should be above the canning line.
Mix together the pickling solution and bring to a strong boil for 5 minutes. Place the jars in the canning rack; fill, starting with the center jar (cold jar). Check pH of liquid in center jar.
Loosely lid the jars except place the special lid with thermometer (see thermometer section of the introdution) on the center jar. Carefully lower into the boiling water, ensuring the water level does not come higher than the fill line (see water bathing section of the introduction). When boiling begins again, lower heat so water remains just below boiling.
When thermometer records 190 degrees F, wait 2 minutes, remove, replace lid on thermometer jar, tighten all lids, and invert for 2 minutes minimum.
I like to cross-slice one, some, or sometimes all of the various pickled vegetables to add to a salad. The flavors make for a unique addition, plus much color is added.
In days gone by, families would have a bowl of these bright pickles on the table to pass around along with other condiments. This still works today. The acids in achar aid digestion while leaving behind an alkaline ash from the cider vinegar, offsetting many of the acid-ash portions of a meal that hinder good health. A body with a natural pH of 7.0 or above might remain healthier. Lower than this is an engraved invitation to many diseases. When we dig deep using the shovel of modern science, we often uncover intelligent reason, although unexplainable at the time, for the whys of how people once ate. It is not hard to believe that 50,000 generations passing down experience got it right.
*4-inch trimmings are recommended so that long vegetables can stand in a pint jar. If canning quarts, longer pieces can be used.
There are numerous recipes for preserving the delicate flavors of summer. There is not a farmers market goes by when someone doesn’t ask for a pickle of this description. It is understandable. These are so tasty that one would think them common, and yet they are difficult to find in local markets and impossible to find on supermarket shelves. The reason? The squash have a narrow summer window, and they are—what do we say—common, plain vanilla, no pizzazz! Often in my writing, I refer to simple as sometimes being the best, including living. This pickle is no exception.
This is an acidified water-bath recipe.
At time of the water bath, process pH of liquids must be below 4.3.
This recipe makes 7 pint jars; pints are best suited.
This recipe can be halved, doubled, or multiplied.
7 cups cubed yellow summer squash (1-inch pieces) |
3 cups crosscut zucchini (sections no more than 1 inch thick) |
1-1/2 cups medium-diced red onion |
2-1/2 cups medium-diced red bell pepper |
2 carrots, crosscut into 1-inch pieces, then halved or quartered |
7 cloves garlic (1 for each jar) |
1 quart water mixed with 3/4 cup salt |
2-1/2 cups cider vinegar |
2 cups sugar |
2 teaspoons whole celery seed |
1 teaspoon dry mustard |
In a pot, glass baking dish, or other large-surfaced container, spread out the squash and onion; sprinkle salt on top and leave for 2 hours minimum.
When ready to proceed, add saltwater solution, stir the vegetables once, and drain well but do not rinse. Mix all the vegetables together except the garlic. Put 1 garlic clove in each sterile jar and then fill with the remaining vegetables.
Prepare the pickling solution by mixing all ingredients together in a nonreactive pot, place over heat, and bring to a boil.
Place the jars in the canning rack, fill with the solution, center jar first (cold jar), and check the pH of the liquid. Place the thermometer in the center jar with the special lid, loosely lid the other jars and lower into the boiling bath, ensuring the water level does not come higher than the fill line (see water bathing section of the introduction) on the jars. As the water begins to return to a boil, lower heat slightly to prevent further boiling.
When canning temperature of 200 degrees F is reached, wait 2 minutes before removing jars. Tighten lids, replace center lid, and invert all jars for 2 minutes minimum.
Not all canned items go on or beside something else; some stand alone. The dill pickle is a perfect example. In the South, jars of pickled okra are often seen at college football games. Summer squash pickle is neither a stand-alone nor a put-on-top-of, yet it goes just fine being put on top of rice or next to a potato or in a salad. It also finds a very comfortable place on a plate just sitting all by itself, ready to add its thing to whatever the meal designer has prepared. Sometimes it’s the sweet that’s lacking on the plate; sometimes it’s cheerful colors; sometimes when it’s cold and the sky is battleship gray, we need a reminder that summer will come.
It was in the fall of 2008 that I was in Santa Cruz visiting my best friend. On dirt bikes, we explored the coastal cliffs that hold back the mighty Pacific. A little north we happened upon a farm harvesting Brussels sprouts. I learned only then while looking at the plants that sprouts were not baby cabbages. Many recipes use sugar. I thought I’d give sugar a rest. I’m glad I did. Crisp and invigorating with nothing bad going into the body makes for even better eating.
This is an acidified water-bath recipe.
pH of liquid at time of water bath cannot exceed 4.2. If higher (and this should not be), check percentage solution of cider vinegar first; it must be 5 percent. Second, recheck with new pH paper in clear natural sunlight. If above 4.2, pour out pickling solution, make a new batch, and continue to process after taking a pH test.
This recipe’s pickling solution makes 7 jars; pints are best suited.
Solution amounts can be halved, doubled, or multiplied.
1 cup pure or canning salt |
2 quarts water |
1 clove garlic, ends trimmed |
1/2 tablespoon dill weed |
1/2 teaspoon mustard seed |
1/4 teaspoon whole celery seed |
7 (8-ounce) Brussels sprouts, wilted outer petals removed, ends trimmed, soaked |
8 cups cider vinegar |
2 cups water |
1/4 cup salt |
1 to 2 tablespoons red pepper flakes |
Mix together the salt and water. Place the sprouts in the saltwater solution for 3 hours before removing and rinsing.
Sterilize and load jars with the ingredients, sprouts last, and place in the canning rack.
Mix the pickling solution ingredients together and boil for 3 minutes, allowing the heat of the pepper flakes to permeate the solution. It will begin to redden.
Fill the jars (cold jar first) to the canning lines, loosely attach the lids, put the thermometer with special lid on the cold jar, and lower into water bath, making sure the level of water does not exceed the canning line of the jars. When the water begins to boil for a second time, lower the heat slightly to prevent further boiling.
When jars reach 200 degrees F, wait 2 minutes before removing. Tighten lids, replace and tighten thermometer lid, and invert all for required 2 minutes minimum.
Eating pickled Brussels sprouts right out of the jar is not a bad thing. Providing it as a substitute pickle for a tuna sandwich will go a long way in demonstrating one’s individuality. Or partially slice one and fit it on the rim in lieu of the obligatory celery stalk when serving a Bloody Mary; maybe call it Bloody Mary visits Brussels. Call it what you may, it will be called “unique.” For other uses, just think dill pickle and substitute, or quarter a few sprouts to add to an evening salad; its uses are endless.
My first book, Putting Up, had a popular recipe that ruled for most of the twentieth century. There’s no doubt why the pickle’s popularity continues into the twenty-first century. Is it tradition, taste, or usage? The answer is “yes” to all three. Even when I’m serving a simple supper, if nothing else from the pantry finds its way beside or on top of a serving, I’ll place a small heap of B&B pickles somewhere on the plate. The acid aids digestion, the sweet puts a smile on every face, and the pickle flavors act as an ambassador, bringing together the starch, protein, and vegetable of a single meal into harmonious accord.
This is an acidified water-bath recipe.
pH will be below 4.2 if balsamic vinegar is used.
The solution mix is for 7 pint jars; pints and half pints work best.
The solution can be halved, doubled, or multiplied.
4 pounds pickling cucumber,* ends trimmed, thin-sliced |
3 medium white or yellow onions, thin-sliced, slices halved |
2 red bell peppers, medium-diced |
3/4 cup pure salt |
3 pounds ice |
3 cups white balsamic vinegar |
2 cups honey |
3 jalapeños (or pepper of heat choice), minced |
3 cloves garlic, minced |
1 tablespoon mustard seed |
2 teaspoons celery seed |
2 teaspoons pickling spices or whole cloves |
Spread the cucumbers, onions, and peppers in a large flat pan, sprinkle with the salt and cover with the ice. Wait 3 hours, or until the ice has melted before draining well. Do not rinse. Gently but firmly pack the cucumber mélange into sterile jars.
Prepare the pickling solution and bring to a boil. In the canning rack, fill the jars, loosely lid, insert the thermometer, and heat in the water bath to 190 degrees F following water bath protocol (see water bathing section of the introduction).
Wait 2 minutes, remove, tighten lids, replace thermometer lid, and invert for 2 minutes minimum.
This is one of those put-up delights that can lead you to the end of your imagination and beyond. There is nothing quite like a genuine homemade bread-and-butter pickle nestled within the bun of a hamburger or cheeseburger just off the backyard grill. And while on the topic of adding to, try taking a few of these sweet acidic discs along with the accompanying onions and bell peppers, rough-chop them, and add to a salad. Even with the touch of heat, which is a choice, kids love ’em. It’s amazing what a finicky child will consume with a sweetened pickle on top.
*Pickling cucumbers are smaller and therefore the seeds inside are small, a definite consideration but most important when not picking from one’s own garden or buying from a farmers market. Also, pickling cucumbers are not waxed. Waxed won’t work!