CREAM AND CUSTARD PIES: PUDDING PIES, CHIFFON PIES, CUSTARD PIES, AND MERINGUE PIES
PUT-UP PEACHES AND VANILLA CREAM PIE
BANANA CREAM PIE WITH CANDIED PECANS
BLOOD ORANGE–CHOCOLATE PUDDING TART
BUBBY’S ORIGINAL PEANUT BUTTER–CHOCOLATE PIE
BUTTERMILK PIE WITH FRESH BERRIES
Often the people who love cream pies prefer them to fruit pies. When they say they love pie, they mean these pies. Lucky for the cream-pie lover, these recipes can be made year-round and are less dependent on seasonal ingredients.
Pudding pies are made from a rich stovetop custard of eggs, milk, and sugar; chiffon pies are essentially the same base with lofty whipped cream or meringue folded in, often with a stabilizer like gelatin to keep it aloft. Custard pies are essentially egg and milk–based pies baked in a slow oven (and typically served cold). Meringue pies are usually custard or pudding pies topped with a cloud-like layer of sweet, light meringue that has been browned on top.
Crusts for cream pies are par-baked or fully blind-baked in advance because the filling is either cooked entirely on the stovetop or baked at a low temperature for a short time (insufficient to make a crisp bottom crust). Crumb crusts are quite compatible with the pies in this chapter because they cling to the creamy filling and have a delicious flavor and texture, even when cold.
VANILLA PUDDING PIE
MAKES 6 CUPS PUDDING; ONE 9-INCH SINGLE-CRUST PIE
Pudding for pies is best made a day in advance so that it has plenty of time to chill and set. Creamy pudding pies go perfectly with crumb crusts and are quite amenable to a layer of fresh fruit, particularly berries. Puddings take a bit of practice to make with ease. Read through the directions completely before beginning. This recipe needs to be followed precisely. Yes (in case you’re wondering if it’s correct), there is sugar added separately to the two parts before they are combined. Heed the advance preparation and process notes and have all the tools and equipment you’ll need in front of you before you begin cooking, and you’ll have little trouble. Puddings can curdle, turning into scrambled-eggs if they get too hot. This basic recipe is the foundation for almost all of the pudding pies in this chapter, so make a big batch and try a second pudding pie recipe after the first pie is completely devoured.
Pastry for a 9-inch single-crust pie, blind-baked, such as Bubby’s All-Butter Pastry Pie Dough, Basic Butter and Shortening Pastry Pie Dough, Nut Pastry Pie Dough, Sour Cream Pastry Pie Dough, Graham Cracker Crust, or Chocolate Crumb Crust
4 cups whole milk
1 cup sugar, divided
1 vanilla bean, split in half lengthwise
Pinch salt
1 cup egg yolks (about 12 yolks)
1⁄2 cup cornstarch
8 tablespoons (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cubed
In a large, heavy, nonreactive saucepan (aluminum reacts and will cause a pudding to turn dingy gray), combine the milk, 1⁄2 cup of the sugar, the vanilla bean, and salt. In a medium bowl, whisk together the yolks, remaining 1⁄2 cup sugar, and cornstarch until smooth.
Have the whisk, a ladle, and a large glass or ceramic dish handy. Heat the milk mixture in the saucepan over medium heat until it just comes to a simmering slow boil, whisking it a bit as it gets steamy. When you see the first bubbles boiling up, take the pan off the heat and place it on a potholder next to the egg mixture. (To make life a little easier on yourself, put the egg bowl on the right if you’re right-handed, or on the left if you’re left-handed. Use your stronger arm to whisk; use your weaker arm to ladle the hot milk.)
During the next steps, stir constantly or the eggs will coagulate and you’ll have scrambled eggs. This is quick work. Take a ladleful of hot milk and pour it in a thin stream into the eggs, whisking constantly. Continue stirring, and add one or two more ladlefuls of hot milk to the eggs in the same way. The tempered eggs are now ready to add back into the hot milk.
To do this, whisk the hot milk constantly and slowly pour the tempered eggs in. When fully combined, put this mixture back on the stovetop over medium heat and continue to whisk constantly. The mixture should be ready to come back to a simmer very quickly. When the custard nears the consistency of pudding, take very short pauses in stirring to look for signs of a bubble surfacing (it is more like a single volcanic blurp). Don’t look too closely, or you’ll risk getting spattered with hot pudding. Just stir, pause briefly, stir, and so on.
When you see the first blurp, remove the pan from the heat immediately and whisk in the cubes of butter. Whisk until fully combined and immediately pour the pudding into a large glass or ceramic dish to cool it down. While the pudding is still very hot, stretch plastic wrap directly on the surface of the pudding. Smooth out any air pockets to make the pudding airtight. This will prevent a skin or condensation from forming on top of the pudding. Refrigerate the pudding until completely cold—at least 4 hours.
STRAWBERRIES AND CREAM PIE
MAKES ONE 9-INCH SINGLE-CRUST PIE
Homemade vanilla pudding should be made in advance so that it has plenty of time to chill. It’s layered here with fresh, flavorful, glazed strawberries in a flaky pastry crust. This is equally good made with fresh raspberries, blackberries, or blueberries and any variety of cookie crumb crust.
Pastry for a 9-inch single-crust pie, blind-baked, such as Bubby’s All-Butter Pastry Pie Dough, Basic Butter and Shortening Pastry Pie Dough, Nut Pastry Pie Dough, Sour Cream Pastry Pie Dough, Graham Cracker Crust, or Chocolate Crumb Crust
4 cups strawberries, divided
11⁄2 tablespoons fresh-squeezed orange juice
1 teaspoon orange zest
21⁄2 tablespoons sugar
11⁄2 tablespoons cornstarch
Pinch salt
3 cups Vanilla Pudding
Clean and trim the strawberries. Reserve 1⁄2 cup of your best-looking whole strawberries to decorate the top of the pie. Slice 2 cups of the strawberries in half or quarters and set aside.
To make strawberry sauce, roughly chop the remaining strawberries and combine with the orange juice and zest in a covered saucepan over low heat. Simmer for 5 minutes, until the berries are broken down and juicy. Take the lid off and smash up the berries a little. Simmer for 15 minutes more, until completely liquid, with thick bubbles showing.
Combine the sugar, cornstarch, and salt in a bowl and mix well. Whisk this mixture into the strawberry reduction and cook over medium heat until it is just at a boil—the opacity goes out of the sauce and it looks shiny and steamy. Cool the sauce for 10 minutes, then fold the sliced berries into the sauce. Chill the sauce completely.
To assemble the pie, you can choose which layer you want on top—pudding or berries. Spread the cold strawberry mixture in the pie shell, then layer on the Vanilla Pudding, smoothing the top with a spatula. Chill the pie, covered with plastic wrap, in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours before serving. Serve it cold, garnished with the reserved 1⁄2 cup of whole or halved strawberries.
Store loosely covered in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.
PUT-UP PEACHES AND VANILLA CREAM PIE
MAKES ONE 9-INCH SINGLE-CRUST PIE
This is comfort food par excellence! The recipe is intended for “put-up” or canned peaches—those preserved in light syrup and canned in mason jars at home. If you use store-bought, choose some preserved in light syrup. You can also use fresh, fully ripe local peaches if you’re making this in the summer. The vanilla pudding should be made in advance so that it has plenty of time to chill. All of the ingredients can be prepared in advance, but the pie should be assembled shortly before serving. This can also be made well with fresh or put-up apricots.
Pastry for a 9-inch single-crust pie, blind-bake, such as Bubby’s All-Butter Pastry Pie Dough, Basic Butter and Shortening Pastry Pie Dough, Nut Pastry Pie Dough, Sour Cream Pastry Pie Dough, Graham Cracker Crust, Chocolate Crumb Crust, or Gingersnap Crumb Crust
2 cups quartered “put-up” or canned peaches
3 cups Vanilla Pudding
Strain the quartered peaches over a bowl for 30 minutes in the refrigerator. If you are using fresh peaches, wait to skin them and cut them just before you assemble the pie.
Fold the pudding and peaches together and pour the mixture into the pie shell. Smooth the top with a spatula. Serve immediately. This pie is delicious but fragile—it is best eaten right after it is made.
BANANA CREAM PIE WITH CANDIED PECANS
MAKES ONE 9-INCH SINGLE-CRUST PIE
This pie has been on the Bubby’s menu since we opened. Lots of bananas tossed lightly in sour cream are topped with a vanilla pudding and pecan pralines. This is the best banana cream pie we’ve ever tried. Select ripe bananas without any sign of spots or green near the stem.
Pastry for a 9-inch single-crust pie, blind-baked, such as Bubby’s All-Butter Pastry Pie Dough, Basic Butter and Shortening Pastry Pie Dough, Nut Pastry Pie Dough, Sour Cream Pastry Pie Dough, or Chocolate Crumb Crust
4 to 5 medium-sized ripe bananas
11⁄2 tablespoons fresh-squeezed lemon juice
1⁄4 teaspoon vanilla extract
1⁄4 cup sour cream
3 cups Vanilla Pudding
Slice the bananas 1⁄4 inch thick to get about 4 cups and immediately toss them in the lemon juice to prevent them from browning. Stir the vanilla extract into the sour cream, then gently fold in with the bananas. Layer the coated bananas in the pie crust, and flatten them gently. Layer the pudding on top and smooth it with a spatula.
Refrigerate the pie, covered with plastic wrap, for at least 2 hours before cutting.
Serve wedges of pie cold with Candied Pecans; their salty accent is quite nice next to the custard and bananas. Store loosely covered in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
BANANA-MOCHA PUDDING PIE
MAKES ONE 9-INCH SINGLE-CRUST PIE
Make chocolate pudding according to the directions, but increase the espresso powder measure by two teaspoons for a stronger coffee flavor.
Pastry for a 9-inch single-crust pie, blind-baked, such as Bubby’s All-Butter Pastry Pie Dough, Basic Butter and Shortening Pastry Pie Dough, Nut Pastry Pie Dough, Sour Cream Pastry Pie Dough, or Chocolate Crumb Crust
3 cups Chocolate Pudding
3 teaspoons instant espresso powder, divided
4 to 5 medium bananas
1⁄3 cup sour cream
Make the Chocolate Pudding according to the directions, but add an extra 2 teaspoons of espresso powder (21⁄2 teaspoons total in pudding). Refrigerate it.
When the pudding is completely cold, slice the bananas 1⁄2 inch thick to make about 4 cups. Mix 1 teaspoon hot water with the 3⁄4 teaspoon espresso powder in a large bowl. Add the sour cream and stir until smooth. Add the bananas and fold them gently into the sour cream mixture. Pour the banana mixture into the pie shell and even it out with a spatula, compressing it lightly. Stir the pudding and layer it evenly over the bananas.
Refrigerate the pie, covered with plastic wrap, for at least 4 hours before serving.
Serve wedges of pie cold. Store loosely covered in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
CHOCOLATE PUDDING PIE
MAKES 6 CUPS PUDDING; ONE 9-INCH SINGLE-CRUST PIE
Delicious variations on this pie include Chocolate Pudding Pie in hazelnut pastry crust topped with Candied Hazelnuts, Chocolate Pudding Pie in Chocolate Crumb Crust topped with Espresso Meringue, and Chocolate Pudding Pie in an almond pastry crust topped with fresh sweet cherries.
Pastry for a 9-inch single-crust pie, crimped and chilled in pie tin, such as Nut Pastry Pie Dough, Bubby’s All-Butter Pastry Pie Dough, Chocolate Crumb Crust, Chocolate-Peppermint Crumb Crust, or Graham Cracker Crust
4 cups whole milk
3⁄4 cup sugar, divided
1 vanilla bean, split in half lengthwise
1⁄4 teaspoon salt
1 cup egg yolks (about 12 yolks)
1⁄2 cup cornstarch
8 tablespoons (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cubed
6 ounces bittersweet chocolate
2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
1⁄2 teaspoon instant espresso powder
Whipped Cream, Espresso Meringue, or other toppings, as desired
In a large, heavy, nonreactive saucepan (aluminum reacts and will cause a pudding to turn dingy gray), combine the milk, 1⁄2 cup of the sugar, the vanilla bean, and salt. In a medium bowl, whisk together the yolks, remaining 1⁄2 cup sugar, and cornstarch until smooth.
Have the whisk, a ladle, and a large glass or ceramic dish handy. Heat the milk mixture in the saucepan until it just comes to a boil, whisking it a bit as it gets steamy. When you see the first bubbles boiling up, take the pan off the heat and place it on a potholder next to the egg mixture. (To make life a little easier on yourself, put the egg bowl on the right if you’re right-handed, or on the left if you’re left-handed. Use your stronger arm to whisk; use your weaker arm to ladle the hot milk.)
During the next steps, stir constantly or the eggs will coagulate and you’ll have scrambled eggs. This is quick work. Take a ladleful of hot milk and pour it in a thin stream into the eggs, whisking constantly. Continue stirring and add a few more ladlefuls of hot milk to the eggs in the same way. The tempered eggs are now ready to add back into the hot milk.
To do this, whisk the hot milk constantly and pour the tempered eggs in slowly. When fully combined, put this mixture back on the stovetop over medium heat and continue to whisk constantly. The mixture should be ready to come back to a simmer very quickly. When the custard nears the consistency of pudding, take very short pauses in stirring to look for signs of a bubble surfacing (it is more like a single volcanic blurp). Don’t look too closely, or you’ll risk getting spattered with hot pudding. Just stir, pause briefly, stir, etc.
When you see the first blurp, remove the pan from the heat immediately and whisk in the cubes of butter. Whisk until fully combined and immediately pour the pudding into a large glass or ceramic dish to cool it down.
In the top of a double boiler over low heat, melt the chocolate. Stir in the cocoa and espresso powder until the espresso crystals have dissolved and the chocolate is uniformly smooth. Stir the mixture into the hot pudding. While it is still very hot, stretch plastic wrap directly on the surface of the pudding. Smooth out any air pockets to make the pudding airtight. This will prevent a skin or condensation from forming on top of the pudding. Refrigerate the pudding until completely cold—at least 4 hours.
Stir the cold pudding and retrieve the vanilla bean. Squeeze out the excess seeds (those little black specks) in the interior of the pod with your thumb and forefinger—pinch and slide your fingers down the length of the bean, freeing the black seeds as you go. Do this with each half of the bean, returning as many seeds as possible to the pudding. Stir the pudding again and pour it into the prepared crust of your choice. Smooth the top with a spatula. Top with fresh Whipped Cream, Espresso Meringue, or another topping of your choice.
Chill the pie, covered with plastic wrap, in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours before serving. It holds for up to 4 days.
This pudding holds very well before it is made up in a pie, so we recommend making 6 cups even if only 3 are needed.
BLOOD ORANGE–CHOCOLATE PUDDING TART
MAKES ONE 10-INCH SINGLE-CRUST TART
Blood oranges and chocolate pair well in this decadent tart. Make candied blood orange slices 24 hours in advance. Blood oranges are available from early December to the end of January.
Pastry for a 10-inch single-crust tart, such as Graham Cracker Crust, Bubby’s All-Butter Pastry Pie Dough, Basic Butter and Shortening Pastry Pie Dough, Short Dough For Tarts, or Sour Cream Pastry Pie Dough
4 blood oranges, juiced
Zest of 1 blood orange, finely chopped
3 cups Chocolate Pudding, hot
Candied blood orange slices, for serving with pie
Shaved chocolate, for serving with pie
In a small non-reactive pan over high heat, reduce the juice for about 5 to 7 minutes, until it measures 2 tablespoons. Set aside.
While the pudding is still hot, whisk the reduced juice into it vigorously to incorporate it. Use a rubber spatula to get every last bit from the pan and stir it into the pudding. Stir in the zest.
To cool the pudding, pour it into a large glass or ceramic dish. While it is still very hot, stretch plastic wrap directly on the surface of the pudding so that a skin doesn’t form on top. Refrigerate the pudding until completely cold—at least 4 hours.
Roll out the pastry and line a 10-inch tart pan with the bottom crust. Rechill the pastry if necessary. If using a pastry dough, fully blind-bake the crust until it is golden brown; set aside to cool completely before filling it with pudding. For a crumb or cracker crust, do not prebake it.
Stir the pudding and pour it into the tart shell. Let it chill for at least 30 minutes before serving. Top with chocolate shavings and candied blood oranges to serve.
Store the pie, covered with plastic wrap, in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.
BUBBY’S ORIGINAL PEANUT BUTTER–CHOCOLATE PIE
MAKES ONE 9-INCH SINGLE-CRUST PIE
Our peanut butter pie is a permanent feature on our menu, and has been since we opened. A light peanut butter mousse is piled into a Graham Cracker Crust lined with a layer of chocolate ganache (a rich spread of cream and chocolate) and chocolate shavings on top. This would also be good with a Chocolate Crumb Crust. If you’re going to make this decadent pie, go all the way and definitely use sweet, store-bought peanut butter.
1 recipe Graham Cracker Crust or Chocolate Crumb Crust
PEANUT BUTTER MOUSSE
1 cup confectioners’ sugar
1 cup creamy peanut butter
3 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
11⁄2 cups heavy cream
GANACHE
6 ounces bittersweet chocolate
3⁄4 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons shaved chocolate, to decorate the top
Use the paddle attachment of an electric mixer at medium, then high speed, to beat together the sugar, peanut butter, cream cheese, and vanilla until they are light and fluffy. In a separate bowl, whip the cream until it holds good, stiff peaks. Place a few spoonfuls of whipped cream in the peanut butter mixture and mix on medium speed to combine evenly. Add the remaining whipped cream and fold it into the mousse on the slowest setting, until all the chunks are gone. Cover and refrigerate.
TO MAKE THE GANACHE: Melt the chocolate in the top of a double boiler over low heat and stir until smooth. Add the cream, stirring continuously, until completely combined. Spread a thick layer of ganache in the pie shell, covering the bottom and the sides of the crust as evenly as possible, using an offset spatula, spreading from the center outward and up the sides with arcing strokes. Chill the crust in the freezer until the ganache is set.
Set aside about 1⁄2 cup of mousse. Fill the pie with the remaining mousse, smoothing the top with a spatula. Use a pastry bag with a plain tip to pipe the reserved mousse into peanut butter kisses around the edge of the pie for decoration. Sprinkle the top of the pie with the shaved chocolate.
Refrigerate the pie for at least 2 hours before serving. Store it in the refrigerator loosely covered for up to 4 days.
KEY LIME PIE
MAKES ONE 9-INCH SINGLE-CRUST PIE
Made with real Key limes or Key lime juice and baked in our homemade Graham Cracker Crust, this creamy and tangy pie is a year-round favorite at Bubby’s. We buy real Key lime juice from Jeanette Richards, who gets her lime juice from Florida and freezes it. There’s no comparison between Key lime juice and regular lime juice. This pie is great with fresh raspberries.
1 recipe Graham Cracker Crust, blind-baked
3 large eggs
1 cups sweetened condensed milk
1⁄2 teaspoon cream of tartar
1⁄3 cup fresh-squeezed or bottled Key lime juice
Whipped Cream, for garnish
Preheat the oven to 300°F.
Use the whisk attachment of an electric mixer to beat the eggs until frothy. Add the condensed milk and cream of tartar and mix well. With the mixer on low speed, pour in the lime juice in a thin stream. Increase the speed to medium-high and whisk for 5 minutes. There’s no danger of overwhipping this pie—just of overbaking. Pour the filling into the crust just to the lip of the shell.
Bake the pie on a lipped baking sheet for 15 to 20 minutes, or just until it is set. The top should jiggle and have a sheen but no sign of browning. It will set as it cools.
Put the pie on a cooling rack for 20 minutes. Refrigerate the pie for at least 4 hours before serving. Serve it cold, with whipped cream.
Store the pie loosely covered in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.
DOUBLE LEMON CHESS PIE
MAKES ONE 9-INCH SINGLE-CRUST PIE
Southerners go misty when this pie gets mentioned. The filling ingredients that distinguish it are buttermilk and cornmeal. So why is it called chess pie? There are a few possible answers: It’s kept cold, so back in the days of ice chests it was known as “chest” pie. It’s also a pretty humble pie, and some people say the name comes from the expression “Aw, it’s jest pie.” Ours is a little different from most old recipes we’ve found—somewhere between a lemon bar and lemon meringue pie filling—the lemon curd gives it an extra pucker, and the traditional chess pie base gives it a creamy consistency.
Pastry for a 9-inch single crust, blind-baked, such as Sour Cream Pastry Pie Dough, Bubby’s All-Butter Pastry Pie Dough, or Basic Butter and Shortening Pastry Pie Dough
2 cups sugar
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
5 large eggs
1⁄2 cup plus 2 tablespoons buttermilk
1⁄3 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon cornmeal
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
1⁄4 cup fresh-squeezed lemon juice
2 lemons, zested
1⁄2 cup Lemon Curd
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
With an electric mixer, cream the sugar and butter together until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, buttermilk, and cream; beat well.
In a small bowl, combine the flour, cornmeal, and salt, add them to the butter mixture, and mix just until incorporated. Add the lemon juice and zest and mix briefly. Pour the filling into the pie shell.
Bake the pie on a lipped baking sheet for 40 to 45 minutes, until the top is a pale golden brown and the center is only a wee bit loose.
Cool the pie on a cooling rack for 20 minutes before refrigerating. Chill completely before topping the filling with Lemon Curd. Use an offset pastry spatula to distribute it evenly, stopping just shy of the pastry crust. Chill for at least 4 hours and serve cold and plain. This pie cuts like a pudding pie—a little yielding.
Store the pie loosely covered in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
BUTTERMILK PIE WITH FRESH BERRIES
MAKES ONE 9-INCH SINGLE-CRUST PIE
Like the Italian custard pane cotta, this buttermilk pie delivers the pure unadulterated texture of cream. It is delicious with any cookie crumb crust and any kind of fresh berry—particularly strawberries and raspberries. The gelatin called for is approximately one packet; however, double-check the measure, because they are often somewhat off and this filling depends on an exact measure.
Pastry for a 9-inch single-crust pie, crimped and chilled in pie tin, such as Gingersnap Crumb Crust, Graham Cracker Crust, Nut Pastry Pie Dough, Bubby’s All-Butter Pastry Pie Dough, or Basic Butter and Shortening Pastry Pie Dough
2 cups buttermilk, divided
23⁄4 teaspoons unflavored powdered gelatin
2 cups sour cream
1 small vanilla bean
6 tablespoons sugar, plus extra as needed
2 cups fresh raspberries
If using a pastry dough, fully blind-bake the crust until it is golden brown; set aside to cool. For a crumb or cracker crust, do not prebake it.
Put 1 cup of the buttermilk in a small saucepan. Sprinkle the gelatin evenly over the surface and let it sit undisturbed for 10 minutes to soften. Then warm the mixture over medium-low heat, whisking constantly, until the buttermilk emits its first steam and the gelatin dissolves completely. Take care not to cook this mixture past this point; if the buttermilk comes to a boil, it will curdle. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside.
Prepare an ice water bath in a bowl large enough to surround the mixing bowl with ice. Use lots of ice cubes and about 1 quart of water.
Whisk the remaining 1 cup buttermilk and the sour cream until smooth. Split the vanilla bean lengthwise and scrape out seeds with the back of a chef knife. Add them to the buttermilk along with the sugar. Mix briefly, just to combine. With the mixer on low speed, pour the hot buttermilk into the bowl in a thin stream. When it is completely incorporated, remove the entire bowl to nest in the ice water bath. Whisk occasionally for about 10 minutes, until the mixture gets quite cold (50ºF).
Pour the cooled mixture into the crust and refrigerate it for at least 4 hours before serving. If you have more filling than will fit in the crust, pour it into individual ramekins and chill them alongside the pie for a snack.
Serve the pie cold with fresh, lightly sugared berries. Refrigerate, loosely covered, for up to 2 days.
NESSELRODE PIE
MAKES ONE 9-INCH SINGLE-CRUST PIE
This once very popular pie is a decadent Christmas pie—a wonderful blend of creamy vanilla custard, honey-roasted chestnuts, and candied orange, topped with toasted coconut and shavings of dark chocolate. Like many holiday pies, it likely became so because one of its ingredients—chestnuts—is in season at Christmastime. Our recipe is based on that of Count Nesselrode’s chef, M. Mouy. It was once considered a New York specialty.
It took us a couple of tries to make a pie we love, but what we arrived at is truly a magnificent, decadent pie and well worth the labor it takes to make it. You’ll taste every bit of love you put into it. We’ve tried it with chestnuts we’ve prepared ourselves and with the variety that come vacuum-packed or loose in glass jars, and we can say with confidence that they are both good. As a result, we go the easier route and save the fresh chestnuts for roasting over a fire. Both the chestnuts and the puree can be purchased at gourmet specialty food shops.
Pastry for a 9-inch single-crust pie, blind-baked, such as Bubby’s All-Butter Pastry Pie Dough, Basic Butter and Shortening Pastry Pie Dough, Graham Cracker Crust, or Chocolate Crumb Crust
ROASTED CHESTNUTS
8 ounces chestnut pieces
1⁄4 cup honey
1 tablespoon Cointreau or other orange-flavored liqueur (optional)
Pinch salt
Pinch ground nutmeg
ORANGE PASTE
1⁄4 cup sugar
2 oranges, zested
1 teaspoon Cointreau or other orange-flavored liqueur (optional)
CHESTNUT CREAM
One 151⁄2-ounce can high-quality chestnut puree
2 cups heavy cream
1⁄2 cup honey
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
6 cups Vanilla Pudding
1⁄2 cup toasted sweetened coconut
2 tablespoons dark chocolate shavings, for garnish
Preheat the oven to 300°F.
In a medium bowl, mix together the chestnuts, honey, Cointreau (if using), salt, and nutmeg until combined. Roast the mixture on a parchment-lined baking sheet for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. The chestnuts will not brown but they should be hot with a drier look. Set aside to cool.
TO MAKE THE ORANGE PASTE: Mix the sugar with the zest and Cointreau (if using). Add to the cooled chestnuts and set aside.
Prepare an ice water bath in a bowl large enough to surround the top half of the double boiler with ice. Use lots of ice cubes and about 1 quart of water. In a heavy enamel or steel pan, whisk together the chestnut puree, cream, honey, cornstarch, and nutmeg. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until thickened and creamy. Stir in 1 cup of the roasted chestnuts. Rest the pot in the ice bath until the mixture is very cold to the touch. Fold in the Vanilla Pudding gently.
Sprinkle the remaining roasted chestnuts in the bottom of the crust. Layer it with the chestnut cream, smoothing it with a spatula, and then top it with the toasted coconut and chocolate shavings.
Refrigerate for at least 4 hours before serving. Store loosely covered in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.
SOUR CREAM–RAISIN PIE
MAKES ONE 9-INCH SINGLE-CRUST PIE
The sour cream-raisin pie recipes we came across resembled dense library paste with raisins. Sometimes raisin pie is called funeral pie; maybe that’s what inspired them. Our idea of how good the pie could taste appealed to us, so we set out to make homemade sour cream custard atop a warm spicy layer of raisins. It’s tasty.
Pastry for a 9-inch single-crust pie, blind-baked, such as Bubby’s All-Butter Pastry Pie Dough or Basic Butter and Shortening Pastry Pie Dough
RAISINS
2 cups raisins
1⁄4 cup sugar
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons white vinegar
1 teaspoon orange zest
1⁄2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1⁄4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
Pinch ground cloves
Pinch salt
CUSTARD
2 cups sour cream
1 cup milk
5 large egg yolks
1⁄2 cup sugar
1⁄4 cup cornstarch
3 tablespoons dark brown sugar
Tiny pinch salt
4 tablespoons (1⁄2 stick) unsalted butter, cubed
Measure the raisins, sugar, flour, vinegar, zest, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, and salt into a heavy nonreactive pot. Stir. Bring the mixture to a boil, then cover it and turn it down to a low simmer. Stir occasionally until the raisins get plump and the sauce coats the back of a spoon. Remove it from the heat and set aside.
In the top of a double boiler, whisk together the sour cream, milk, yolks, sugar, cornstarch, brown sugar, and salt. Heat the mixture over simmering water and stir constantly until it thickly coats the back of a wooden spoon. Off the heat, add the butter and stir until incorporated. Transfer the pudding to a bowl and cover the surface with plastic wrap. Refrigerate to cool completely.
When everything is cold, scrape the raisin mixture into the crust and spread it out evenly. Layer the sour cream pudding on top, smoothing it with a spatula. Chill for at least 4 hours, loosely covered, before serving.
Serve cold and store loosely covered in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.
I’m admittin’ tastes are diff’runt, I’m not settin’ up myself
As the judge an’ final critic of the good things on the shelf.
I’m sort o’ payin’ tribute to a simple joy on earth,
Sort o’ feebly testifyin’ to its lasting charm an’ worth,
An’ I’ll hold to this conclusion till it comes my time to die,
That there’s no dessert that’s finer than a chunk o’ raisin pie.
—edgar guest, “Raisin Pie”
MILE-HIGH LEMON MERINGUE PIE
MAKES ONE 9-INCH SINGLE-CRUST PIE
Start early (at least six hours in advance, preferably twenty-four) to allow adequate chilling time for the pie to set up properly. The intense lemon custard of this pie is topped with a flavorful Italian meringue that is light, creamy and has a hint of brown sugar. Italian meringue holds up better than any other meringue we’ve tried. To keep the meringue from weeping, observe all notes about the temperature and chilling times. Also, spread the meringue to completely cover the edge of the lemon filling or moisture will accumulate there. Chill the whole pie thoroughly before transporting it anywhere. We use a propane kitchen torch on the meringue, and recommend the torch as the best option for this pie.
Pastry for a 9-inch single-crust pie, par-baked, such as Bubby’s All-Butter Pastry Pie Dough or Basic Butter and Shortening Pastry Pie Dough
6 large eggs
11⁄2 cups sugar
3⁄4 cup fresh-squeezed lemon juice
1 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon lemon zest
Preheat the oven to 300ºF.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs and sugar until combined. Add the lemon juice and whisk until smooth. Mix in the cream and strain the mixture into a bowl. Add the zest to the strained mixture.
Place the pie shell on a lipped baking sheet and put them on a rack in the oven with the shelf pulled out slightly. Carefully pour the filling mixture directly into the crust and slide the rack into the oven gently. The pie will be very full, so be careful not to slosh it.
Bake the pie for about 1 hour, or until the filling barely jiggles when the pie is given a little shake. Let the pie cool on a rack for 20 minutes, then refrigerate it uncovered for several hours or overnight (covered) before making and adding the meringue to it.
Scrape the warm meringue onto the chilled lemon pie and use a spatula to shape it into a smooth dome, pushing gently. Make sure the meringue covers the filling completely, touching all the edges of the crust and sealing the top of the pie.
With the back of a spatula or wooden spoon, touch and pull the meringue to make decorative peaks in it. Work quickly, before the meringue cools and sets.
Use a propane kitchen torch to evenly brown the meringue. Point the flame slightly above the peaks to avoid flare-ups. If you don’t have a torch, place the pie on the lower rack of a 475°F oven for 5 to 10 minutes, until the peaks brown nicely.
Cut and serve the pie immediately or chill it until needed. If storing it overnight or longer in the refrigerator, use toothpicks to prop up plastic wrap to cover the pie. The meringue will definitely get weepy once the pie has been cut and stored, but it is fine. It will last up to 3 days refrigerated.
LOFTY COCONUT CLOUD PIE
MAKES ONE 9-INCH SINGLE-CRUST PIE
Jen coveted an extraordinary coconut cream pie from a pie place in Palominas, Arizona. Because her diplomatic attempts to attain the recipe were unsuccessful, we worked long and hard to figure out how to recreate this high, silky, ethereal, and creamy pie. This would be great with freshly shaved coconut too.
Pastry for a 9-inch single-crust pie, blind-baked and chilled, such as Bubby’s All-Butter Pastry Pie Dough or Basic Butter and Shortening Pastry Pie Dough
2 cups milk, divided
2 tablespoons unflavored gelatin
6 large eggs
1 cup unsweetened toasted coconut, plus extra for topping the pie
1 cup sugar
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
Pinch salt
11⁄2 cups heavy cream
Fully blind-bake the crust until it is golden brown; set aside to cool completely before filling it with pudding.
Measure 2⁄3 cup of the milk into a wide bowl. Sprinkle the gelatin over it and let it soften for 5 minutes, whisk together, and set the bowl aside.
Separate the eggs—put the yolks into the bowl of an electric mixer and put the whites into a separate bowl until later.
In a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine the remaining 11⁄3 cups milk and the coconut. When the milk forms small bubbles at the edge and gets steamy, remove the pan from the heat.
With the electric mixer, whip the yolks and sugar until light in color and a smooth and ribbony design is left by the whisk. With the mixer on low speed, pour in 1 cup of the hot milk in a slow steady stream to temper the eggs. Whisking constantly, pour the egg mixture into the milk and return the pan to the heat. Stir constantly with a whisk over medium heat until slightly thickened. Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the milky gelatin. Add the vanilla and salt. (If you want even more coconut, you can stir a cup more into the filling.) Pour the mixture into a bowl and refrigerate it, covered, for 2 hours or until it is cold and thickened up.
With an electric mixer, whip the cold pudding until it is really smooth (it will be pretty dense and gelatinous at first).There should be no lumps. Separately, whip the cream until stiff. Fold the whipped pudding and cream together gently with a rubber spatula. Separately, whip the egg whites until stiff. Fold the whipped egg whites into the creamy pudding. Mound the mixture into the crust and smooth it with an offset spatula. Top it with additional toasted coconut.
Chill the pie for a couple of hours before cutting and store it in the refrigerator. Use toothpicks to prop up plastic wrap to cover the pie. It will last up to 3 days refrigerated.
COCONUT CUSTARD PIE
MAKES ONE 9-INCH SINGLE-CRUST PIE
The coconut settles to the bottom of the pie as it bakes, offering a nice contrast in textures between the toothy coconut and the smooth custard. Serve it still warm from the oven.
Pastry for a 9-inch single-crust pie, par-baked and cooled, such as Bubby’s All-Butter Pastry Pie Dough or Basic Butter and Shortening Pastry Pie Dough
11⁄4 cups milk
1⁄2 cup sweetened shredded coconut
11⁄4 cups regular (full-fat) coconut milk
5 large egg yolks
1⁄2 cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1⁄8 teaspoon salt
In a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine the milk, coconut, and coconut milk. When it forms small bubbles at the edge and steams slightly, remove it from the heat. Do not boil it or it will scorch.
Separate the eggs. With an electric mixer, whip the yolks, sugar, vanilla, and salt until frothy. Temper the egg mixture by adding the hot milk in a thin stream while the mixer is running on low. Add all the milk this way.
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Pull the oven rack out a little and place the crust on a lipped baking sheet on the oven rack. Carefully pour the filling into the crust and push the rack gently back in. Bake the pie for 35 to 40 minutes, until the filling jiggles but doesn’t slosh when nudged.
Cool the pie at room temperature for at least 20 minutes before serving it warm or at room temperature. Store in the refrigerator for up to 4 days. Once it has been chilled, it’s best served cold.