DRINKS
GINGER-CINNAMON PUNCH
Serves 6 to 8
Whenever this ice-cold, jewel-toned punch appears as the after-dinner treat at a Korean restaurant, I always end up collecting all the untouched cups from those who didn’t want theirs after I’ve downed mine. Ticklingly warm from the cinnamon and spicy from the ginger, yet crisp and cold, it is a play in contrasts that is utterly addictive and so very easy to make at home. Brew up a hefty batch and store in the fridge to sip at your leisure—no need to poach from your dinner companions.
4 inches ginger root, sliced (scant ⅓ cup, or 1 ounce)
9 or 10 cinnamon sticks (about 1 ounce)
8 cups water
1 cup sugar
¼ cup pine nuts
Dried persimmons, apricots, or dates (optional)
Combine the ginger, cinnamon, and water in a large saucepan. Bring to a simmer over high heat, then reduce to medium-low and simmer gently until the tea turns a rich red, 30 to 40 minutes. Add the sugar and continue to simmer for another 5 minutes or so, stirring occasionally, until the sugar is fully dissolved. Strain the tea through a coffee filter or layers of cheesecloth to remove any residue. Refrigerate until very cold. Enjoy chilled, with a few pine nuts and a slice of dried persimmon, or a handful of dried apricots or dates, if desired. The tea will keep for up to a week in the refrigerator.
SWEET TEA
Serves 4; easily doubled
The first time I ate at a restaurant in New York, the server came by to take our drink orders. “Sweet tea, please,” I answered automatically, and a few moments passed before I realized that my order was met, not with a tall, frosty glass of syrupy-sweet amber tea, but a blank stare.
In the South, unlike most of the rest of the country, sweet tea graces tables more frequently than water. The tea is brewed nice and strong to stand up to more shimmering sugar than should be prudent or even possible, with just a pinch of baking soda to cut any astringency, and poured over a tall glass stacked high with ice. Having since moved to strange lands where sweet tea is a novelty and not a natural part of life, I’ve taken to brewing it at home whenever I feel a pang of homesickness (or a craving for sugar). Luzianne is the traditional choice if you can find it, but Lipton will do just fine if that’s all you have.
4 cups water
1 family-size Luzianne tea bag, or 4 regular tea bags (Lipton works in a pinch)
¼ to ½ cup sugar, to taste
⅛ teaspoon baking soda (optional)
Bring the water to a rolling boil, then remove from the heat and add the tea bags. Let steep for 8 to 10 minutes, until strong. Remove the bags and stir in the sugar. Taste and adjust the sugar to your liking. It is meant to be quite sweet (hence the name!) so don’t shy away from the sugar—it will also be served over ice, so it won’t be quite as concentrated as it tastes right now. If the tea is a little bitter, add the baking soda. Let cool completely, then pour over ice and enjoy, or store in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 days.
NOTES
To enjoy more quickly, steep the tea in 2 cups boiling water instead of 4 cups. Remove the tea bags, stir in the sugar and baking soda until dissolved, then stir in 2 more cups ice-cold water. Pour over ice and enjoy.
For a milder tea, use just 3 regular tea bags, or steep the tea for less time, instead (6 to 8 minutes).
WHITE PEACH GREEN TEA
Serves 3 or 4
I’m not much of a sangria drinker, but whenever the summer rolls around and frosty pitchers adorn all the restaurant patios, heavy with fruit, I always wish I was. This is my simple, alcohol-free solution—a summer tea that matches pure, delicate white peaches with the crisp grassiness of green tea for a light, fresh alternative to regular Sweet Tea (this page) or sangria. Replace the green tea with jasmine for a more tea-forward, floral alternative, or with black tea if you prefer it, or any other favorite.
FOR THE PEACH SYRUP (OPTIONAL, SEE NOTES)
½ cup water
⅓ to ½ cup sugar or honey
1 to 2 ripe white peaches or nectarines, sliced into chunks (about ½ cup)
FOR THE TEA
2 to 3 tablespoons loose-leaf green tea, or 3 or 4 tea bags
1 quart water
1 ripe white peach or nectarine, sliced
1 Make the peach syrup: In a small saucepan, combine the water, sugar (or honey), and peaches and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Reduce the heat to low and let simmer until the peaches are very soft, 10 to 15 minutes. Use a wooden spoon to crush the peaches against the sides of the saucepan to release more flavor. Set aside and let cool completely.
2 Meanwhile, make the tea: Place the green tea in a pitcher. Bring the water to a boil, then remove from the heat and let cool briefly, about 10 seconds or so. Pour over the green tea and let steep 3 to 4 minutes. Strain out the tea and let cool.
3 Divide the remaining sliced peach between 3 or 4 glasses and muddle if desired. Strain out the peaches from the syrup and add the syrup to the green tea until it reaches your desired sweetness. Pour over the muddled peaches and plenty of ice, and serve.
NOTES
For a lighter, more natural tea, simply muddle the peaches, pour the hot tea over it, and let cool before enjoying.
MILK TEA, TWO WAYS
Serves 2 or 3
While I learned quickly that the strong, smoky milk tea in Hong Kong was made by steeping black tea until inky and then stirring in creamy evaporated milk or thick ribbons of condensed milk, for the longest time I didn’t know how Taiwanese bubble tea chains got their milk tea to taste so distinctive. Try as I might to combine evaporated milk with sweetened condensed milk or regular milk, it never tasted quite the same. Finally, I picked up the phone to ask them myself, steeling myself for a shut-down. Surely it was a trade secret that they’d refuse to share? But instead, I got the answer right away. “Powdered nondairy creamer,” was the curt answer. I received the same reply from the next bubble tea chain I called, and the next. Really? Incredulous, I went out and bought a dubious-looking container of the stuff. The moment I stirred it in—there it was.
These days I love both recipes, though I prefer my Hong Kong–style milk tea hot and my Taiwanese-style milk tea cold, with bubbles. Whichever one you prefer, steep the tea until it’s nice and strong, and don’t hold back with the bells and whistles—the creamy sweetness is what you’re here for.
HONG KONG–STYLE
2 cups water
4 tablespoons loose-leaf Keemun, Ceylon, or English Breakfast tea, or 4 tea bags
⅛ teaspoon baking soda
¼ to ½ cup evaporated milk (and/or sweetened condensed milk), to taste
2 to 4 tablespoons sugar, to taste
1 In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, bring the water to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium, add the tea, and simmer for 1 minute. (If using tea bags, snip off the strings and tags before adding.) Reduce the heat to its very lowest setting and let steep until the tea is very dark and strong, about 10 more minutes. Strain out the tea leaves, add the baking soda, then divide the tea between 2 or 3 cups.
2 Stir in 2 to 3 tablespoons evaporated milk per cup, and about 1 tablespoon sugar per cup (or more or less, depending on your preference). Alternatively, use 1 to 2 tablespoons sweetened condensed milk plus 1 to 2 tablespoons evaporated milk per cup, and omit or reduce the sugar. Enjoy hot or cold.
NOTES
Because sweetened condensed milk and evaporated milk are quite creamy, I prefer Hong Kong–style milk tea when it is, by traditional standards, intentionally over-brewed. For my tastes, the milk and baking soda are more than enough to smooth out any astringency, but if you like your tea a bit smoother, place the tea in a teapot, bring the water to a boil separately in a small saucepan or kettle, then pour the water over the tea. Let steep for a bit longer than you would for your normal cup of tea, until dark and extra strong (6 to 8 minutes), then enjoy.
TAIWANESE-STYLE
FOR THE BUBBLES
2 cups water
¼ cup black tapioca pearls (I like Wu Fu Yuan brand)
1 tablespoon dark brown sugar, or to taste
FOR THE TEA
4 tablespoons loose-leaf Keemun, Ceylon, or English Breakfast tea, or 4 tea bags
2 cups water
3 to 4 tablespoons powdered nondairy creamer, to taste
2 to 4 tablespoons sugar, to taste
⅛ teaspoon baking soda
1 Make the bubbles: In a small saucepan over high heat, bring the water to a boil. Add the pearls and stir gently so that they don’t clump together. Wait for the pearls to float to the surface, then cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes. Turn off the heat and let sit for another 1 to 3 minutes, depending on how firm you like your bubbles (I find that 1 minute is enough). Drain the pot, then submerge the bubbles in cold water until cool to the touch. Drain again, stir in a tablespoon or so of brown sugar, and divide between 2 or 3 cups. Set aside.
2 Make the tea: Place the tea in a teapot or liquid measuring cup. Rinse out the saucepan, then add 2 cups water and bring to a boil. Pour the boiling water over the tea and let steep until strong and dark, 6 to 7 minutes. Add powdered nondairy creamer and sugar to taste. Stir in the baking soda, then divide between the 2 or 3 cups if enjoying hot; if you’d like it cold, let it cool briefly, then add ice to the cups and pour the tea on top.
HONG KONG COFFEE TEA
Serves 2 to 4
Yuanyang is one of those truly remarkable combinations that creates something wholly new out of two things that you’d never think would go together. Made from two parts tea and one part coffee, it manages to taste nothing like tea or coffee, but becomes a smoky, earthy, alluring morning wake-up all its own. Enjoy it with a soft scrambled egg sandwich or sweetened condensed milk and peanut butter toast (this page), for a luxurious Hong Kong–style way to start the day.
2 cups water
¼ cup loose-leaf Keemun, Ceylon, or English Breakfast tea, or 4 tea bags
⅛ teaspoon baking soda
1 cup strong coffee, hot
¼ to ½ cup evaporated milk (and/or sweetened condensed milk)
Sugar, to taste
1 In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, bring the water to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium, add the tea, and simmer for 1 minute. Reduce the heat to its very lowest setting and let steep until the tea is very dark and strong, about 10 more minutes. The stronger the tea, the better it will hold up to the coffee and evaporated milk. Stir in the baking soda, then the coffee.
2 Divide the yuanyang between 2 to 4 cups. Stir in 2 to 3 tablespoons evaporated milk and 2 to 3 teaspoons sugar per cup (or more or less, depending on personal preference). Alternatively, use 1 to 2 tablespoons sweetened condensed milk plus 1 to 2 tablespoons evaporated milk per cup, and omit or reduce the sugar. Serve hot or cold.
HONEYDEW BUBBLE TEA
Serves 3 or 4
The first honeydew bubble tea I ever had was the sort made from effervescently green powder, scooped out of a little plastic drawer and shaken vigorously with ice to become a mysteriously composed but utterly delicious fruity-yet-creamy bubble tea. I suspect many versions out there are made in similar fashion, but with ripe honeydew melons at my disposal one summer I thought I’d see if there wasn’t a better way. Lo and behold, there is—all you need is fresh, nectar-like honeydew juice, a smattering of creamy matcha, and chewy bubbles to make it happen.
FOR THE TEA
1 honeydew melon, diced (about 8 cups)
¼ cup hot water
¼ to ⅓ cup powdered nondairy creamer or milk of your choice, to taste
2 teaspoons matcha powder, or to taste (see Notes)
1 to 2 tablespoons sugar, if needed
FOR THE BUBBLES
½ cup black tapioca pearls (I like Wu Fu Yuan brand)
4 cups water
1 to 2 tablespoons sugar, to taste
1 Add the honeydew to a food processor or blender and blend to a purée (it should have the consistency of applesauce). Place a fine-mesh sieve over a large bowl and pour the purée into the sieve, straining the juice into the bowl. You should have about 3 to 4 cups of juice. Set aside.
2 In a small bowl, whisk together the hot water, powdered creamer, and matcha powder until no lumps remain. You may want to use a matcha whisk, if you have one. If you don’t and lumps persist, strain them through a fine-mesh sieve. Depending on the sweetness of your melon, add sugar as desired and whisk again until dissolved. Combine the matcha mixture with the honeydew juice, and set aside to let cool completely.
3 To make the bubbles, in a small saucepan, bring 4 cups water to a boil over high heat. Add the pearls and stir gently so they don’t clump together. Wait for the pearls to float to the surface, then reduce the heat to medium, cover, and let simmer for 2 to 3 minutes. Turn off the heat and let sit for another 1 to 3 minutes, depending on how firm you like your bubbles (I find that 1 minute is enough). Drain the pot, then submerge the bubbles in cold water until cool to the touch. Drain again, stir in 1 to 2 tablespoons sugar, and divide between 3 or 4 drinking glasses. Add a few cubes of ice to each glass, then pour the honeydew tea mixture over, and enjoy.
NOTES
If you don’t have matcha powder, add a few ounces of strong green tea. You can also use jasmine tea, for a floral twist.
MATCHA HOT CHOCOLATE
Serves 2 or 3
White chocolate seems to have a tough break of it most of the time. But while its assertive sweetness might not work in every context, I can think of no better way to use it than with matcha powder, where it becomes the perfect backdrop to the creamy, sweet notes inherent in matcha. A restrained amount of white chocolate, melted together with plenty of matcha and steamed milk until silky and thick, makes for a rich and decadent hot faux-cocoa that tastes like a particularly sassy green tea latte.
2 cups milk of your choice, divided
1 tablespoon matcha powder
1 teaspoon cornstarch (optional)
3 to 4 ounces white chocolate
⅛ teaspoon salt
Marshmallows and Almond Whipped Cream (recipe follows), for serving (optional)
1 Add ¼ cup milk to a 2-quart saucepan and bring just to a simmer over medium-low heat. Remove from the heat and add the matcha powder and cornstarch (if using). Whisk vigorously to break up any lumps, then return to the heat.
2 Add the remaining 1¾ cups milk, the white chocolate, and the salt, and stir until melted. Continue to stir until the mixture just reaches a simmer, then immediately remove from the heat. Serve with plenty of marshmallows and almond whipped cream, if desired.
NOTES
For a more mild hot chocolate, use 2 teaspoons matcha powder; for a less sweet hot chocolate, use 3 ounces white chocolate. Any kind of milk will work here—I particularly like soy milk, but regular dairy is also wonderful.
almond whipped cream
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
1 cup heavy cream, very cold
2 to 3 teaspoons sugar, or more to taste
½ teaspoon almond extract
Using an electric handheld mixer or a stand mixer, beat the heavy cream on high until soft peaks form. Add the sugar and almond extract and continue to beat on medium until the cream reaches stiff peaks. Use immediately.
NOTES
Cream will whip most readily when everything is thoroughly chilled—I like to chill the cream, the bowl, and even the mixing beaters.