CARAMELIZED FENNEL & HERITAGE CARROTS
WITH FRESH ORANGES & LEMONY HERB DRESSING
Warm, caramelized fennel and colourful Heritage carrots make magnificent bedfellows to thin slices of fresh juicy oranges. Don’t skimp on the herbs.
2 bulbs Florence fennel
600 g/21 oz. Heritage carrots
4–5 tbsp olive oil
juice of 1 lemon
2 tsp caster/granulated sugar
4 juicy oranges
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
for the dressing
100 ml/⅓ cup plus 1 tbsp olive oil
zest and juice of 1 lemon
1 tsp caster/granulated sugar
a large handful of chopped mixed herbs (parsley, coriander/cilantro, dill, chives, etc.)
SERVES 4
Preheat the oven to 190˚C (375˚F) Gas 5. Trim the fennel bulbs, and then cut them in half, from root to tip. Cut each half into three or four wedges. Arrange over a sheet pan. Cut the carrots in half or into quarters along their length, depending on the size of the carrots. Arrange them over the pan with the fennel wedges. Drizzle over the oil and lemon juice and scatter over the sugar. Roast for about 25–30 minutes, until the vegetables are soft and slightly charred at the edges.
In the meantime, top, tail and peel the oranges and cut into thin slices. Mix the oil, lemon juice and sugar together for the dressing, and squeeze in any juice from the end pieces of orange peel. Season with a little salt and black pepper.
Remove the pan from the oven and transfer everything to a platter. Drizzle over the lemon dressing, scatter with the herbs, and serve.
TUNISIAN MECHOUIA SALAD WITH PRESERVED LEMON & RAS EL HANOUT CAULIFLOWER RICE
Mechouia has many variations, but it is essentially a Moroccan salad combining that top notch trio of (bell) peppers, tomatoes and aubergines/eggplants.
3 red onions, cut into wedges
2 red (bell) peppers and 1 yellow (bell) pepper, deseeded and cut into strips
350 g/12 oz. cherry tomatoes
2 small aubergines/eggplants, chopped into small cubes
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1 large red chilli/chile, deseeded and chopped
100 ml/⅓ cup plus 1 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp sherry vinegar
1 small cauliflower
1 tsp ras el hanout spice mix
¼ preserved lemon
a small bunch of coriander/cilantro, chopped
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
SERVES 4
Preheat the oven to 190˚C (375˚F) Gas 5. Put the onion wedges, (bell) peppers and cherry tomatoes on a large, flat sheet pan. Scatter the aubergine/eggplant cubes over the top. Sprinkle over the chopped garlic and chilli/chile, drizzle over about two-thirds of the olive oil, and then transfer the sheet pan to the oven and roast for about 40 minutes – until the vegetables are soft and starting to char at the edges.
Remove the sheet pan from the oven, add the sherry vinegar, and season to taste. Spoon the vegetables onto a pretty platter and keep warm.
Chop the cauliflower into very fine, rice-like pieces. Transfer it to a bowl and add the remaining oil. Add the ras el hanout and toss well to coat. Spoon the mixture over the sheet pan (no need to wash it) and return to the oven for about 10 minutes, until the cauliflower is cooked, but still crunchy.
Remove the pulp from the preserved lemon, rinse the peel and chop it very finely. Stir it into the cooked cauliflower rice. Spoon the cauliflower rice over the mechouia salad and garnish with lots of coriander/cilantro. Serve warm.
SAFFRON CAULIFLOWER STEAKS WITH CANDIED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, ROASTED GRAPES, PISTACHIOS & LIME CHERMOULA
Thick slices of cauliflower look so pretty and taste so good when they’re given a slick of saffron-infused oil and cooked in the oven. If you’ve never roasted grapes before, then I think you’ll be won over when you try them – especially in this dish, where they perfectly complement the other elements and are set off beautifully with a piquant lime chermoula dressing.
a generous pinch of saffron filaments
juice of 1 lemon
500 g/18 oz. Jerusalem artichokes
1 large cauliflower
50 ml/3½ tbsp olive oil
1 scant tsp paprika
20 g/¾ oz. light brown muscovado sugar
300 g/2 cups small, sweet juicy red grapes
50 g/1¾ oz. pistachios
for the lime chermoula
80 ml/⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp dried chilli/red pepper flakes
a large bunch of coriander/cilantro, coarsely chopped
a large bunch of parsley, coarsely chopped
a small handful of mint leaves
zest and juice of 1 large lime
SERVES 4
Preheat the oven to 190˚C (375˚F) Gas 5. Put the saffron filaments into a small bowl and stir in a tablespoon of just-boiled water. Set aside.
Fill a large bowl with cold water and add the lemon juice. Peel the artichokes, cut into slices, then drop them into the acidulated water to prevent them from browning.
Cut the cauliflower into thick slices to form ‘steaks’. Transfer the cauliflower slices to a large, flat sheet pan. Stir 30 ml/2 tablespoons of the olive oil into the saffron infusion and drizzle this over the cauliflower. Sprinkle the slices with paprika. Mix the remaining olive oil with the muscovado sugar. Remove the artichoke slices from the acidulated water and dry briefly on paper towels. Toss them with the oil and sugar mixture. Scatter them over the sheet pan and transfer to the oven. Roast for about 15 minutes, until the vegetables are almost soft.
Cut the grapes into small clusters and arrange them over the pan. Return the pan to the oven and cook for another 10–15 minutes, until the vegetables are soft and golden, and the grape skins are starting to split a little and caramelize. Remove the sheet pan from the oven and scatter over the pistachios.
To make the lime chermoula, simply put all the ingredients into a food processor and blitz to a fairly smooth sauce. Drizzle over the cauliflower steaks, and serve.
HONEY & RAS EL HANOUT ROOTS
WITH PISTACHIOS, POMEGRANATE AND CORIANDER SHEEPS’ MILK YOGURT
Stir the pungent ras el hanout into a little honey, combine it with root vegetables and roast, then add some vibrant green pistachios, juicy pomegranate seeds and a slick of garlic and herb-flecked yogurt – and you could almost be on a camel to Cloud Nine.
300 g/10½ oz. celeriac/celery root, peeled and diced
300 g/10½ oz. parsnips, cut into batons
300 g/10½ oz. carrots, cut into batons
150 g/5½ oz. baby turnips, cut into wedges
200 g/7 oz. beetroots/beets, cut into wedges
200 g/7 oz. butternut squash, cut into wedges
200 g/7 oz. shallots, peeled
50 ml/3½ tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp ras el hanout spice mix
1 tbsp runny honey (or brown rice syrup for a vegan version)
50 g/1¾ oz. pistachios
seeds from 1 pomegranate
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
fresh parsley, to garnish
for the ras el hanout spice mix
10 g/⅓ oz. coarsely ground black pepper
10 g/⅓ oz. ground coriander
5 g/1 tbsp ground ginger
5 g/1 tbsp smoked paprika
½ tsp each allspice, ground nutmeg, ground turmeric and cayenne pepper
seeds from 2 green cardamom pods
¼ tsp ground cloves
1 tsp dried rose petals
for the yogurt dressing
200 ml/6¾ fl. oz. sheep’s milk yogurt
1 garlic clove, peeled and grated
a handful of freshly chopped coriander/cilantro
SERVES 4
Preheat the oven to 180˚C (350˚F) Gas 4. For the ras el hanout spice mix, grind the spices together using a pestle and mortar. Store in a screw-top jar.
Toss the celeriac/celery root, parsnips, carrots, baby turnips, beetroots/beets and butternut squash together in a large sheet pan. Add the shallots. Mix the olive oil with the ras el hanout spice mix, and stir in the honey. Pour this over the vegetables, season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, and toss to coat everything evenly. Roast for about 30–35 minutes, until the vegetables are soft and charred a little here and there. Remove from the oven, transfer to a warm serving dish and scatter over the pistachios and pomegranate seeds.
For the dressing, mix the sheep’s milk yogurt with the grated garlic and chopped coriander/cilantro, and spoon a little of the mix here and there. Garnish with fresh parsley and serve warm.
This Ethiopian-influenced lentil stew is great when you’re craving something fuss-free and filling but full on flavour. Try not to frown at the idea of adding tomato ketchup to tomato-based dishes – good-quality tomato ketchup puts back the sweetness that can often be lacking in canned tomatoes and passata/strained tomatoes.
1 onion, sliced
2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
4 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp Berbere spice mix (see page 82)
2 large carrots
1 large sweet potato (about 250 g/9 oz.), peeled and cut into bite-sized chunks
1 x 400-g/14-oz. can chopped tomatoes
4-cm/1½-inch piece of fresh ginger root, grated
450 ml/15 fl. oz. passata/strained tomatoes
800 ml/generous 3¼ cups well-flavoured vegetable stock
2 tbsp good-quality tomato ketchup
150 g/scant 1 cup dried red lentils, rinsed
a large handful of fresh baby spinach leaves
a bunch of freshly chopped parsley
chilli/chile oil (see page 25), to serve (optional)
SERVES 4
Preheat the oven to 190˚C (375˚F) Gas 5. Scatter the onion over the base of a deep roasting pan. Add the garlic to the pan, drizzle everything with the olive oil and scatter over the berbere spice mix. Give it a good stir to coat everything in the spice mix and cook for 10 minutes.
Cut the carrots into triangular-shaped chunks. Remove the roasting pan from the oven and toss in the carrots and sweet potato. Pour in the chopped tomatoes and stir in the grated ginger. Add the passata/strained tomatoes, stock and tomato ketchup. Stir in the lentils, cover with foil and cook for 30–35 minutes, until the vegetables and lentils are soft and the casserole is nicely thickened.
Stir in the spinach leaves and half of the parsley, and return the pan to the oven for a further 3–4 minutes. Serve with an extra scattering of chopped parsley, and chilli/chile oil, if desired.
AFRICAN PEANUT SOUP
Spicy and satisfying, this gloriously soothing main course soup will warm body and soul on the coldest winter’s day. Use a good-quality peanut butter – one that is unsweetened and free from palm oil.
1 large onion, chopped
500 g/18 oz. sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into bite-sized chunks
2 red or orange (bell) peppers, deseeded and cut into strips
4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 generous tbsp berbere spice mix (see page 82)
4-cm/1½-inch piece of root ginger
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 litre/1 quart vegetable stock
4 tbsp peanut butter
2 tbsp maple syrup
1 x 400-g/14-oz. can butter/lima beans
2 handfuls of kale or other greens
2–3 handfuls of roasted, salted peanuts, lightly crushed
a handful of freshly chopped coriander/cilantro
SERVES 4
Preheat the oven to 190˚C (375˚F) Gas 5. Scatter the onion over the base of a deep sheet pan. Add the sweet potatoes and (bell) peppers to the pan. Stir in the oil and berbere spice mix and roast everything for 15 minutes.
Peel the ginger, chop it finely, and add it to the sheet pan with the garlic. Pour in the stock and stir in the peanut butter and maple syrup. Drain and rinse the butter/lima beans, and add them to the pan. Return the pan to the oven and cook for about 20–25 minutes, until the vegetables are soft and the soup has thickened. Add the kale or greens and cook for a further 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven, scatter over the crushed peanuts and chopped coriander/cilantro, and serve.
SWEET POTATO, SAFFRON & AUBERGINE CHORBA
Chorba is a hearty soup or stew, not dissimilar to harira, and is popular in many north African countries. I like to serve it with some thick, natural/plain yogurt, a slick of chilli/chile oil and some good crusty bread.
2 onions, chopped
2 sweet potatoes (about 400 g/14 oz.), peeled and cut into bite-sized chunks
1 aubergine/eggplant, diced
100 g/3½ oz. cherry tomatoes, sliced
4 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp ras el hanout spice mix
1 litre/1 quart vegetable stock
a generous pinch of saffron filaments
100 g/½ cup plus 1 tbsp quick-cook spelt or basmati rice
1 x 400-g/14-oz. can chickpeas
a handful of freshly chopped coriander/scilantro
SERVES 4
Preheat the oven to 190˚C (375˚F) Gas 5. Add the onions and the sweet potatoes to a large sheet pan. Add the aubergine/eggplant and cherry tomatoes. Drizzle the oil over the vegetables and stir in the ras el hanout spice, so that everything is well coated. Transfer the pan to the oven and roast for 20–25 minutes, until the vegetables have taken on a golden colour.
Pour the stock into the pan and add the saffron and the spelt (or rice). Drain and rinse the chickpeas, add to the pan, and give everything a good stir round. Return the pan to the oven and cook for a further 25–30 minutes, until the spelt (or rice) is soft and the soup has thickened. Scatter with freshly chopped coriander/cilantro and serve.
HARIRA SOUP WITH SAFFRON & CHILLI HUMMUS
Sometimes referred to as the national soup of Morocco, harira is frequently eaten during the Muslim fasting period of Ramadan. Typically, it does contain meat – often lamb – but is every bit as delicious when made without. Built on a rich, spicy tomato base and chock-full of vegetables, pulses and pasta, it makes a hearty meal in itself. I’ve teamed it with a glorious saffron and chilli hummus.
2 onions, coarsely chopped
2 sticks/stalks celery, diced
2 large carrots, diced
4 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp ground ginger
1 tbsp ground coriander
1 tbsp ground cumin
2 tsp ground turmeric
2 garlic cloves, chopped
100 g/½ cup plus 2 tbsp green or Puy lentils
1 x 400-g/14-oz. can chopped tomatoes
1 litre/1 quart vegetable stock
1 x 400-g/14-oz. can chickpeas
40 g/1½ oz. dried spaghetti or vermicelli noodles
a bunch of freshly chopped coriander/cilantro
for the saffron & chilli/chili hummus
50 ml/3½ tbsp just-boiled water
a pinch of saffron filaments
1 x 400-g/14-oz. can chickpeas
2 generous tbsp tahini paste
2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
juice of 1 lemon
½ tsp chilli/red pepper flakes
3–4 tbsp olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
SERVES 4
Preheat the oven to 190˚C (375˚F) Gas 5. Scatter the onions over a deep sheet pan. Add the celery and carrots to the pan. Drizzle over the oil and stir in the ground spices. Roast for 15 minutes, until the vegetables are starting to soften.
Remove the pan from the oven and stir in the garlic, lentils, chopped tomatoes and stock. Drain and rinse the chickpeas and add them to the pan. Return the pan to the oven and cook for a further 20 minutes. Break the spaghetti or vermicelli noodles into 2 cm/¾ inch lengths, and stir into the soup. Return to the oven and cook for a further 10 minutes, until the pasta is soft. Garnish with freshly chopped coriander/cilantro.
For the hummus, mix the water and saffron together and leave for 10 minutes (or longer if you have time) to infuse. Drain and rinse the chickpeas and pop them in a food processor (or use a bowl and stick blender). Add the tahini paste and pour in the saffron and water. Add the garlic, lemon juice, chilli flakes and oil. Blitz to a smooth paste and season to taste. Serve.
BERBERE ROASTED CAULIFLOWER
WITH APRICOTS, PINE NUTS & MUHAMMARA
Berbere is a punchy hot spice mix from Ethiopia – making your own means you can adjust the heat to suit. Muhammara is a glorious, dip-into or dollop-on invention that hails from Aleppo in Syria, but is now popular all across the whole Levantine area.
for the muhammara
2 red (bell) peppers, deseeded and cut into strips
3 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp ground cumin
50 g/½ cup walnut pieces
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
30 g/½ cup fresh breadcrumbs
1 tbsp pomegranate molasses
1 tbsp good-quality tomato ketchup
1 tsp dried chilli/red pepper flakes
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
for the berbere spice mix
30 g/1 oz. chilli/red pepper flakes 8
8g/¼ oz. flaked sea salt
8 g/¼ oz. coarsely ground black pepper
7 g/scant ¼ oz. ground cumin
7 g/scant ¼ oz. coriander seeds
2 g fenugreek powder
1 g ground ginger
⅓ tsp allspice
⅓ tsp ground cloves
⅓ tsp ground nutmeg
seeds from 2 green cardamom pods
for the cauliflower
1 good-sized cauliflower
3–4 tbsp olive oil
1½ tbsp berbere spice mix (see above)
50 g/scant ½ cup toasted pine nuts/kernals
200 g/1⅓ cups dried apricots, halved
to serve
2 tbsp pomegranate molasses
3 tbsp olive oil
a handful of freshly chopped coriander/cilantro
a small handful of freshly chopped parsley
mint leaves, to garnish
SERVES 4
Preheat the oven to 190˚C (375˚F) Gas 5. To make the muhammara, toss the red (bell) peppers with 2 tbsp of the oil and the cumin and arrange the strips over a large sheet pan. Roast for about 20 minutes, until softened and slightly charred.
Transfer to a blender and whiz to a purée. Add the walnuts, garlic, breadcrumbs, pomegranate molasses, ketchup, chilli/red pepper flakes and remaining oil and whiz again, until you have a lightly textured purée with the consistency of whipped cream. If the mixture is a little too thick, add some warm water. Season and set aside.
For the berbere spice mix, grind the spices together using a pestle and mortar, until you have a lightly textured powder.
For the cauliflower, break the cauliflower into small florets and toss in a bowl with the olive oil and Berbere spice mix.
Spread over the sheet pan used for the (bell) peppers and roast for about 15 minutes, until the cauliflower is cooked, but still has a little bite. Scatter over the pine nuts/kernels and apricots and return to the oven for a few minutes to warm through.
Stir the pomegranate molasses and oil together and spoon over the cauliflower. Scatter with the freshly chopped herbs and mint leaves, and serve with the muhammara.
BAHARAT AUBERGINE STEAKS,
WITH FETA, DATES, PHYSALIS, STICKY DATE DRESSING & TAHINI YOGURT
Baharat is the Turkish word for ‘spice’, but it is also a mixture used in Middle Eastern cuisine. It’s an aromatic and fairly kick-ass combination of cayenne pepper, paprika, cumin, coriander, nutmeg, cloves and cardamom and is easily bought as a ready-made blend, but is great to make at home too. It transforms oven-baked aubergine/eggplant slices into something incredible, and when they’re served alongside caramel-sweet dates, salty feta and slightly sharp physalis berries and a sesame paste and yogurt sauce, the result is quite positively, a coup de maitre (which is French for something like ‘a stroke of genius’). A peppery rocket/arugula salad makes a great accompaniment.
1–2 tbsp baharat spice mix
50 ml/3½ tbsp olive oil
1 aubergine/eggplant, thinly sliced
100 g/⅔ cup medjool dates, stoned/pitted and halved
3 tbsp date syrup
200 g/7 oz. feta cheese
100 g/3½ oz. fresh physalis berries, halved
mint leaves, to garnish
for the tahini yogurt
120 g/generous ½ cup full-fat natural/plain yogurt
1–2 garlic cloves, finely grated
1 generous tbsp tahini paste
juice of ½ lemon
SERVES 3–4
Preheat the oven to 190˚C (375˚F) Gas 5. Mix the baharat spice with the olive oil and paint this liberally over the aubergine/eggplant slices. Arrange them on a sheet pan and bake for about 15–20 minutes, until they are soft and a rich golden brown.
In the meantime, mix the dates with the date syrup and a splash of hot water and leave them to plump up while the aubergine/eggplant is in the oven.
Remove the pan from the oven. Break the feta cheese into chunks and scatter it over the aubergine/eggplant slices. Arrange the dates here and there, drizzle the syrup over the aubergine/eggplant slices, and return everything to the oven for just 5 minutes, to warm through.
In the meantime, for the tahini yogurt, beat the yogurt, garlic, tahini paste and lemon juice together until smooth. Set aside.
Remove the sheet pan from the oven, and dot the physalis halves here and there. Garnish with fresh mint leaves and serve warm, with the tahini yogurt.
CHARRED TURNIP, RADISH & RED ONION SALAD
WITH ROASTED GARLIC (NO EGG) MAYONNAISE
Turnips probably don’t have the biggest fan club, but when roasted, the transformation is spectacular.
400 g/14 oz. radishes
400 g/14 oz. small turnips, cut into quarters
4 red onions, cut into wedges
1 whole bulb fresh garlic
4 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp caster/granulated sugar
1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves
150 g/5½ oz. red chicory/endive
dill fronds, to garnish
for the (no egg) mayonnaise
2 tbsp chickpea water (aquafaba)
1 scant tbsp Dijon mustard
2 tbsp cider vinegar
150 ml/⅔ cup sunflower oil
sea salt
SERVES 4
Preheat the oven to 200˚C (400˚F) Gas 6. Scatter the radishes, turnips and red onions over a large sheet pan. Cut the whole garlic bulb in half horizontally and lay it in the corner of the sheet pan, cut sides up. Drizzle everything with the olive oil. Sprinkle the radishes, turnips and onions with the sugar, but avoid the garlic. Scatter over the thyme leaves. Bake for 35 minutes, until the vegetables are soft and golden and slightly charred. Remove from the oven, leave to cool slightly, and transfer to a pretty platter. Arrange the red chicory/endive leaves here and there and garnish with dill fronds.
For the (no egg) mayonnaise, put the chickpea water, mustard and cider vinegar into a jug and add a pinch of salt. Blitz with a stick blender until mixed. Slowly pour in the sunflower oil, until the mixture has emulsified and thickened. Squeeze the roasted garlic out of the crispy little compartments of skin into the mixture and blitz again until well mixed. Serve with the charred turnip and radish salad.
BAKED KHORASAN WHEAT WITH BARBERRIES, SAFFRON, PRESERVED LEMON & ROSE PETALS
Khorasan wheat, or kamut, as it is also known makes a great grain-based salad. It makes a moreish lunch when partnered with some simple leaves.
2 leeks, trimmed sliced
3 tbsp olive oil
250 g/1½ cups khorasan wheat
700 ml/3 cups vegetable stock
a pinch of saffron filaments
2 tbsp dried barberries
¼ preserved lemon
100 g/3½ oz. fresh tomatoes, finely chopped
300 g/10½ oz. cauliflower, broken into florets
300 g/10½ oz. broccoli, broken into florets
2 handfuls of kale, chopped
1–2 tsp dried rose petals
freshly chopped mixed herbs (parsley, dill, mint and coriander/cilantro)
for the preserved lemon dressing
¼ preserved lemon
50 ml/3½ tbsp olive oil
juice of 1 lemon
1 tsp caster/granulated sugar
SERVES 4
For the dressing, discard the flesh of the preserved lemon, rinse the peel and chop it finely. Add it to the olive oil, lemon juice and sugar and whisk until fully combined.
Preheat the oven to 190˚C (375˚F) Gas 5. Scatter the leeks over the base of a sheet pan. Drizzle over the oil and cook for 10 minutes, until the leeks have started to soften slightly. Add the khorasan wheat to the pan and stir in the stock, saffron and barberries. Cover with foil and transfer to the oven. Cook for 25 minutes, until the wheat is soft and most of the liquid has been absorbed. Discard the flesh from the preserved lemon, rinse the peel and chop finely.
Remove the foil from the sheet pan and stir the preserved lemon, tomatoes and cauliflower and broccoli florets into the wheat, along with half of the chopped kale. Scatter the remaining kale over the top. Return to the oven for 10 minutes, until the vegetables are soft, but still have a little bite, and the kale on the top is crisp and golden. Scatter with dried rose petals and chopped mixed herbs and serve with the preserved lemon dressing.
