High tea is a uniquely British meal; it allows you to enjoy a pleasant mixture of savoury and sweet ingredients, with a generous quantity of tea to drink. High teas are mentioned by Mrs Beeton, who, well over a hundred years ago, stated that:
‘High tea is a permanent institution, quite taking the place of late supper; young people preferring it to dinner. It being a movable feast that can be partaken of at hours that will not interfere with tennis, boating and other amusements and but little formality is needed.’
The high tea menus of the nineteenth century might well have included 1 or 2 hot dishes, cold chicken, game, tongue, ham and salad.
There would be homemade bread, scones, a selection of cakes and cold fruit tarts with cream. Tea would accompany this marvellous array of satisfying food.
High tea is still a popular meal in many parts of Britain, particularly Scotland, Ireland, parts of Wales and the North of England, especially Yorkshire.
It is ideal for a family with children since it generally is served between 5 and 7 pm. In Scotland you may well find hotels that offer a high tea as well as dinner, so guests can choose the meal they prefer.
There are no rules about what is correct for high tea. The savoury dish, hot or cold, is generally served first and followed by scones, or bread and butter, with jam (jelly), cake, biscuits (cookies), fruit tarts or other sweet fare. Fruit salad and cream is not unknown for high tea.
The famous British breakfast of bacon and eggs is just as likely to appear on the tea table. You may be fortunate enough to be offered this dish on a farm where both the bacon and the eggs are home-produced. Fish and chips (French fries) are another established favourite with young and old.
Sandwiches may well be part of the menu, for good bread is now considered to be a very important food, since it contributes carbohydrate and fibre to the diet. There are suggestions for sandwiches on page 67. Remember that the sandwiches included in a satisfying high tea should be more substantial than those offered for afternoon tea.
Salads
Now that everyone knows the importance of including fibre in a balanced diet, a modern high tea may well feature a variety of salad ingredients. The salad could be served with cooked meats, a pasty, cold poached salmon or tuna fish or with hard-boiled eggs, which are generally coated with mayonnaise. Cheese salads are very popular and look particularly appetizing if more than one kind of cheese is used. Grate the cheese fairly coarsely, or cut it into slices, arranged centrally with a border of colourful salad. Since fruit blends well with cheese, the salad could include segments of orange, rings of cored, but not peeled, dessert apple coated with mayonnaise or sprinkled with lemon juice to prevent discoloration, canned or fresh pineapple slices or dried fruit such as dates or raisins.
Toasted Snacks
Poached or scrambled eggs on toast are quickly prepared for high tea, and are filling and nutritious. Cheese on toast is a popular savoury: simply place slices of cheese or grated cheese over hot buttered toast and place under a preheated grill. Leave for a short time until the cheese melts. Serve at once, topped with sliced or grilled tomatoes. The recipe for a classic Welsh Rarebit is on page 144.
Baked beans on toast have always been a favourite with children. In the past parents often felt this was very uninteresting, but nowadays beans have won universal approval because of their high fibre content. The beans can be heated in a saucepan or in a covered container in a microwave cooker.
Sardines, cooked mushrooms and halved tomatoes on toast are other easy dishes for high tea.
Many adults and children would list fried fish and chips (French fries) as their favourite hot dish for any meal, including high tea.
Dry the fish well on absorbent kitchen paper. Place the flour on a plate and season lightly with salt and pepper. Dust the fish portions all over with flour. This helps the egg and breadcrumb coating adhere to the fish.
Beat the egg well on a deep plate and dip in the fish portions until they are well covered on all sides. Place the breadcrumbs on another plate and use to coat the fish. Press the crumbs firmly to the fish and shake off any surplus.
Cut the potatoes into chip (finger) shapes or slices and keep in cold water until ready to fry for the first time. Double frying the potatoes ensures that they are beautifully crisp.
Heat the oil or fat to a temperature of 340F/170C or until a cube of day-old bread turns golden brown within 1 minute, but no quicker. Cook the potatoes in batches. Dry some on absorbent kitchen paper. Place the first batch into a frying basket, if you are using one, or directly into the fat. Fry for 5-6 minutes or until tender, but still pale in colour. Remove, shaking off any surplus fat or oil over the pan. Leave on a dish while cooking the remaining potatoes, in the same way. When all the potatoes are cooked, place the prepared fish in the oil and fry until tender. Place the portions on a heated dish and keep hot.
Reheat the oil or fat to a temperature of 375F/190C or until a cube of bread turns golden in 30 seconds. Add the potatoes and fry for 1-2 minutes, or until crisp and brown. Drain the potatoes over the pan of oil and place on absorbent kitchen paper to drain completely. Transfer the fish and fried potatoes to individual plates and garnish with lemon.
Serves 4
4 portions of white fish, such as cod, haddock or plaice (flounder)
1 tablespoon (1 ¼ tbsp) flour
salt and pepper
1 egg
2 oz/50 g (½ cup) fine crisp breadcrumbs
approximately 1 lb/450 g (1 lb) potatoes
oil or fat, for frying
To garnish
lemon wedges or slices
These savoury pastries are equally good for a high tea or a packed meal and they have always been part of the fare carried by Cornish miners.
Lightly grease a baking (cookie) sheet or tray. Heat the oven to 425F/220C/Gas Mark 7.
Sift the flour and salt into a mixing bowl. Rub in the fat until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Add enough cold water to give a firm rolling consistency. Roll out the pastry on a floured surface to a ¼ inch/6 mm thickness. Either cut it into 4-6 rounds (the latter size is generally ideal for teatime) or form into a large round for a familysize pasty.
Mix the filling ingredients together. Place a little of the filling in the centre of each pastry round. Dampen the edges and bring them together, making a firm seal. Flute the edges, forming 4 or 6 upright pasties or one large pasty. Beat the egg with the water and brush over the pastry to glaze.
Place on the prepared sheet and bake for 20 minutes; reduce the heat to 325F/160C/Gas Mark 3 and bake the smaller pasties for a further 25-30 minutes or allow a further 45 minutes for a single large pasty.
Serve hot or cold with a crisp green salad.
Serves 4-6
For the shortcrust pastry
12 oz/350 g (3 cups) plain (all-purpose) flour
pinch salt
6 oz/175 g (¾ cup) fat (shortening) water to bind
For the filling
12 oz/350 g (¾ lb) rump (boneless sirloin) steak, finely diced
2 medium potatoes, peeled and diced
2 medium onions, peeled and diced
salt and pepper
1 tablespoon (1 ¼ tbsp) stock or water
1 teaspoon chopped mixed fresh herbs
To glaze the pastry
1 egg
1 tablespoon (1 ¼ tbsp) water
These large prawns caught in Irish waters are a form of lobster that is plentiful in the cold waters of northern Europe.
You will need about 8 oz/225 g prawns for each serving.
It is usual to cook raw Dublin Bay prawns by steaming them over a pan of boiling water. They take about 10 minutes, check carefully; when the shells turn bright pink they are cooked. Alternatively the raw shellfish can be simmered in water in a saucepan for about the same time.
When the prawns are cold, remove the heads and shells. Heat a generous knob of butter in a pan and add a little lemon juice and seasoning. Turn the fish in this mixture for a few minutes, but do not overheat or they will become tough. Serve with fresh bread and butter.
Dublin Bay prawns
butter
lemon juice
salt and pepper
Champ
This is a famous Irish dish which can be served at teatime with fried or grilled bacon or with fried, poached or scrambled eggs.
Add the spring onions (scallions) or leeks to the milk in a saucepan. Season lightly, cover the pan and simmer for about 10 minutes. Add the vegetables and any milk left in the saucepan to the potatoes and beat well. Transfer to a heated serving dish. Make a well in the centre and spoon in the hot melted butter.
Serves 4
1 bunch spring onions (scallions) or 2-3 leeks, cleaned and sliced
4 tablespoons (5 tbsp) milk salt and pepper
1 lb/450 g (2 cups) smooth creamed potatoes
2 oz/50 g (4 tbsp) butter, melted
This method of cooking fresh herrings, which are coated with oatmeal (the modern rolled oats could be used) gives the fish a lovely crisp coating which keeps in all the fine flavour of the herrings.
Split and clean the fish and remove the heads. Most fishmongers will do this for you. The herrings can be split and the backbones removed, and the fish opened out and served flat.
If cooking unboned fish, score them lightly with a knife along the side, making several shallow cuts. Season the oatmeal or rolled oats with salt and pepper and use to coat the fish, pressing the coating firmly into the flesh.
Heat the fat in a frying pan (skillet) set over a moderate heat. Fry the fish for about 10 minutes if whole, 7-8 minutes if opened out, turning once, until golden on both sides. Drain on absorbent kitchen paper and serve piping hot, garnished with parsley and lemon.
Serves 4
4 large fresh herrings
2 oz/50 g (⅓ cup) oatmeal or the same weight (½ cup) rolled oats
salt and pepper
2 oz/50 g (¼ cup) fat (shortening) for frying
To garnish
parsley sprigs
lemon wedges
‘A hardened and shameless tea drinker, who has for many years diluted his meals with only the infusion of this fascinating plant. Whose kettle has scarcely time to cool; who with tea amuses the evening, with tea solaces the midnights and with tea welcomes the morning.’
Dr Johnson (1709-1784) referring to himself in an article in the Literary Magazine
These fine fish, which are smoked whole, and the more robust finnan haddie (haddock) are justly famous in Scotland.
They are ideal for a high tea.
Arbroath smokies have such a delicate texture that they need little cooking. Place the fish in a frying pan (skillet) on the hob or under a preheated grill (broiler) and cook for 1-2 minutes on each side. The fish is so tender that heating it like this is all that is necessary at this stage. Split the fish and open out flat. Spread with the butter and sprinkle with pepper. Close up the fish again and reheat for a few minutes only.
Serve with fresh bread or soft rolls, known as baps in Scotland.
Serves 4
4 Arbroath smokies
approximately 2 oz/50 g (¼ cup) butter
freshly ground black pepper
Grilled Finnan Haddie
Finnan haddock is often poached in water or milk, or a mixture of milk and water. In many parts of Britain the cooked drained fish is topped with butter and a poached egg.
Preheat the grill (broiler).
Cut the tails and fins from the fish and divide into 4 portions. Brush with the butter. Place under the grill and cook the fish for about 3 minutes each side. After turning the fish, add the bacon rashers (slices) and grill until crisp. Serve each portion of haddock with a slice of bacon.
Serves 4
1 large or 2 smaller finnan haddock
1-2 oz/25-50 g (2-4 tablespoons) butter, melted
4 bacon rashers
This is a very sustaining dish, ideal for people who take high tea instead of supper or dinner.
The combination of potatoes and leeks is typical of Welsh cooking.
Place the potatoes in a saucepan of boiling salted water and cook for 15 minutes. Hard-boil the eggs. Add the leeks and a little pepper to the potatoes and continue cooking until both vegetables are tender. Strain and mash with half the butter or margarine. Spoon the potatoes and leeks around the edge of a heatproof dish. Slice the hard-boiled eggs. Heat the oven to 375F/190C/Gas Mark 5.
Heat the remaining butter or margarine in a small saucepan. Stir in the flour and cook for 2 or 3 minutes, still stirring. Blend in the milk. Bring the sauce to the boil, stirring over the heat until it is thickened and smooth. Add three-quarters of the cheese, the sliced eggs and seasoning to taste. Spoon the sauce into the centre of the potato and leek ring and top with the remaining cheese.
Place in the oven and bake for 25-30 minutes. Serve hot, garnished with chopped parsley.
Note: If all the ingredients are hot you can use a flameproof dish and heat the completed dish under the grill.
Serves 4-6
1 lb/450 g (1 lb) potatoes
salt and pepper
4 or 6 eggs
12 oz/350 g (¾ lb) leeks, thinly sliced
2 oz/50 g (¼ cup) butter or margarine
1 oz/25 g (¼ cup) plain (all-purpose) flour
½ pint/300 ml (1 ¼ cups) milk
3-4 oz/75-100 g (¾-1 cup) Cheddar or Caerphilly cheese, grated or crumbled
To garnish
chopped parsley
Despite its name, this savoury dish is not exclusive to Wales, but is served in most parts of Britain. It used to be served as a savoury at the end of a meal, a habit beloved of Victorians. It is also excellent for high tea.
The type of cheese used varies. Double Gloucester has always been a great favourite for this dish, but Cheshire, Cheddar or Lancashire (which has to be crumbled rather than grated) are all ideal.
Heat the butter or margarine in a saucepan. Stir in the flour and cook gently for 1 or 2 minutes. Add the milk or cream and the beer or ale. Stir or whisk vigorously. This sauce becomes very thick and must be smooth. Add the mustard and cheese then salt and pepper to taste. It is advisable to add salt and pepper after the cheese, for the salt content varies considerably. Remove the pan from the heat.
Preheat the grill (broiler). Toast the slices of bread and spread thinly with butter. Divide the cheese mixture between the slices of toast. Place under the preheated grill and cook until golden in colour and bubbling. Serve hot, garnished with parsley and tomato.
To Make a Change
Buck Rarebit. While the cheese is heating on the toast, poach 1 egg per portion and drain well. Place on the hot cheese and serve at once.
York Rarebit. Top the hot buttered toast with slices of cooked York ham. Cover the ham with the Rarebit mixture and cook as above.
Serves 6
1 oz/25 g (2 tbsp) butter or margarine
1 oz/25 g (4 tbsp) plain (all-purpose) flour
4 tablespoons (5 tbsp) milk or single cream
3 tablespoons (4 tbsp) beer or ale
1-1 ½ teaspoons made English or French mustard
12 oz-1 lb/350-450 g (3-4 cups) cheese, grated
salt and pepper
6 large slices of bread
a little softened butter, for spreading
To garnish
parsley sprigs
tomato slices
Potted foods have been popular throughout Britain for generations.
Now that commercially potted fish and various meats are generally available they are less often prepared at home. These suggestions are ideal for teatime.
Serve with hot toast or fresh bread and butter, with a salad, or as a filling in sandwiches. When sealed with butter the potted foods keep for up to 7 days in the refrigerator.
Flake the fish very finely and blend with half the butter and the rest of the ingredients. Pound or liquidize until smooth, but do not overwork the mixture. Put into 4 individual dishes and pour the remaining melted butter on top. Leave to cool completely before serving.
To Make a Change
Potted Herrings. Flaked cooked herrings, or kippers, or other full-flavoured fish may be used in the same way. Adjust the seasoning and spices as desired.
Potted Chicken and Ham. Follow the recipe above, using half cooked chicken and half cooked lean ham. Finely mince the meats then proceed as above. Other cooked meat or poultry may be used.
Potted Cheese. Use a mixture of grated or crumbled cheeses. Blend 8 oz/225 g (½ lb) cheese with half the melted butter. Add 1-2 tablespoons (1¼-2 ½ tbsp) port wine or dry sherry and 2-3 tablespoons chopped skinned fresh or pickled walnuts. Proceed as above.
The Modern Touch
Nutritionists will point out that traditional recipes for potted foods include a high percentage of butter. You can reduce this or blend polyunsaturated margarine with the fish or meat. Cover the food with foil instead of melted butter to keep the mixture moist.
Serves 4
8 oz/225 g (½ lb) cooked salmon
4 oz/100 g (½ cup) butter, melted
a pinch of grated or ground nutmeg
a pinch of ground mace salt and pepper
2 teaspoons dry sherry or lemon juice