Breakfast Sausage with Sage and Apple
Start your day off right with a protein-rich breakfast anchored by these sweet-and-savory patties. Minced apples and apple juice give the sausage a hint of sweetness and keep it moist, and TVP gives it the chewy crumble texture we all remember so well.
Yield: 8 patties • mixing and shaping time: 30 minutes, cooking time: 20 minutes
½ cup boiling water
½ cup TVP (page 21)
¾ cup vital wheat gluten
½ cup chickpea flour
2 tablespoons mock chicken-flavored broth powder
1 tablespoon nutritional yeast
1 tablespoon dried sage
1 ½ teaspoons smoked salt
1 teaspoon granulated garlic
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ cup finely chopped apple
¼ cup apple juice
¼ cup room-temperature water
2 tablespoons canola oil
¾ cup vegetable stock
In a cup, pour the boiling water over the TVP and let it stand for 20 minutes, or until all of the water has been absorbed and the TVP is cool.
In a large bowl, whisk together the vital wheat gluten, chickpea flour, broth powder, nutritional yeast, sage, smoked salt, granulated garlic, and black pepper. Add the TVP, apple, apple juice, and room-temperature water and stir until a dough forms. When the dough is stiff, knead it by hand for 3 minutes.
Turn out the dough onto a floured work surface and divide it into eight equal portions. Form each portion into a ¾-inch-thick patty. Set aside to rest for 5 minutes.
In a large sauté pan with a lid over medium-high heat, warm the oil. Carefully add the patties, making sure they do not touch one another. Cook for 2 minutes per side, or until just browned.
Once the second side is browned, carefully pour the stock into the pan; if the stock begins to boil vigorously, lift the pan off the heat and stand back. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 15 minutes, checking occasionally to make sure all of the liquid in the pan has not boiled off.
Uncover the pan and cook off any remaining liquid. Remove from the heat.
Serve hot.
In Spain, chorizo is served as a hard sausage, one that’s dried and cured into dense, paprika-laced links. This recipe is perfect for adding to your favorite paella or Spanish bean dish, or simply slice and sauté in olive oil to serve alongside tapas.
Yield: 1 (14-ounce) sausage link • mixing and shaping time: 25 minutes, cooking time: 50 minutes
12 garlic cloves, peeled
1 cup vital wheat gluten
2 tablespoons chickpea flour
1 tablespoon onion powder
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
2 teaspoons coarsely cracked black pepper
1 teaspoon smoked salt
½ teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
½ cup water
2 tablespoons tamari soy sauce
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 tablespoon beet powder
2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon organic granulated sugar
Set up a steamer (page 23). Fold over a sheet of cheesecloth so it is doubled. Cut a 12-inch-by-10-inch piece and prepare twist ties or kitchen string for tying the ends.
Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Add the garlic cloves and poach for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and drain. Set aside to cool and then cut into ¼- to ½-inch chunks.
In a large bowl, whisk together the vital wheat gluten, chickpea flour, onion powder, paprika, black pepper, smoked salt, and cayenne pepper. Stir in the cooled garlic chunks.
In a cup, whisk together the water, tamari, oil, tomato paste, beet powder, vinegar, and sugar until smooth. Stir the wet mixture into the dry mixture and then knead the dough only as much as needed to just combine the mixtures and evenly distribute the garlic. Form the dough.
Turn out the dough onto a floured work surface and form it into a 9-inch-by-2 ½-inch log, pressing the garlic chunks into the log as needed. Wrap the log in the cheesecloth, rolling it up and twisting the ends to tightly hold the dough. Bind the twisted ends with the twist ties or string.
Place the log in the steamer, cover, and steam for 50 minutes, or until the internal temperature reaches 180°F. Remove from the heat.
Remove the log and set aside to cool completely.
Refrigerate the log overnight.
To use, unwrap the roll and slice it into thin pieces or chunks.
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Note: If sliced, sear the slices in hot olive oil until just heated through and serve. If cut into chunks, stir the chunks into a hot paella or a stew and serve.
Mexican chorizo is a fresh sausage that’s usually sold in bulk for crumbling into a hot pan or making into spicy patties. This green version is laced with roasted poblanos and parsley. It’s traditionally used in tacos and tortas or served alongside scrambled eggs.
Yield: 7 patties • Mixing And Shaping Time: 45 Minutes, Cooking Time: 30 minutes
½ pound tempeh, cubed
4 garlic cloves, peeled
1 large or 2 small poblano chilies
½ cup finely chopped fresh parsley leaves
2 teaspoons ground coriander
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon dried oregano
¼ cup water
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
½ cup vital wheat gluten
Set up a steamer (page 23).
Place the tempeh and garlic in the steamer and steam for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.
Over a gas burner, char the poblano(s) until blackened all over. Transfer to a small glass storage tub or baking dish and seal the lid so the charred pepper(s) can steam. When cool enough to handle, scrape off the charred skin with a paring knife and remove and discard the stems and seeds.
Place the poblano flesh in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the “S” blade and add the parsley, coriander, black pepper, cumin, salt, and oregano and puree. Add the tempeh and garlic and pulse on and off until the mixture is ground to the texture of cooked ground beef. Transfer to a bowl.
Add the water and sherry vinegar to the bowl containing the poblano–tempeh mixture and stir until well combined. Stir in the vital wheat gluten until the mixture holds together well.
Using a ¼-cup measure, scoop the mixture onto the prepared pan. Flatten each scoop into a ¾-inch-thick patty.
Bake for 15 minutes. Flip over the patties and bake for 15 minutes. Remove from the oven.
If you are looking for the texture of loose ground meat, crumble the tempeh mixture over the pan and bake for an additional 10 minutes. Turn the crumbles over and cook for 10 minutes more. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool.
Serve in tacos or quesadillas or on a salad.
I encountered chef Ron Pickarski’s books Friendly Foods and Eco Cuisine in the mid-’90s, and they were such an inspiration to me. Chef Pickarski is also the author of The Classical Vegetarian Cookbook for Professional Chefs and Inspired Cooks, a comprehensive vegan cookbook of proteins and pastries sold exclusively on his website, www.eco-cuisine.com.
The chef was kind enough to share this beautiful charcuterie recipe with me. According to him, this protein has a softer texture, like a pâté, giving it a fatty mouthfeel. Served as is, the flavor is on the strong side, but when placed on toast with a condiment, its flavor stands out and the components don’t compete with one another. If you don’t use beet juice, the color will be lighter.
Yield: 1 (11-ounce) sausage link • MIXING AND SHAPING TIME: 30 minutes, COOKING TIME: 45 minutes
Canola oil for greasing
½ cup vital wheat gluten or 9 tablespoons Eco-Cuisine Beef-Style Seitan Quick Mix*
7 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon white rice flour
1 tablespoon barbecue spice blend (like Stubbs)
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
1 teaspoon nutritional yeast
½ teaspoon salt
½ cup cooked or canned beans, drained and rinsed
½ cup beet juice from cooked or canned beets or ½ cup water mixed with 1 teaspoon beet powder
Set up a steamer (page 23). Ready a 6-by-3 ⅜-by-2 ½-inch mini loaf pan by greasing it with the oil.
In a large bowl, whisk together the vital wheat gluten, flours, barbecue spice blend, paprika, nutritional yeast, and salt until evenly dispersed. Stir the beans into the dry mixture and set aside for 10 minutes.
Add the beet juice and mix for 2 minutes, or until all liquids have been absorbed and a dough forms.
Turn out the dough onto a floured work surface and form it into an 8-inch-by-3-inch roll. Wrap the roll tightly in plastic wrap and then wrap it again in foil to seal it. Or press in the prepared pan and wrap the whole thing in plastic wrap.
Place the roll in the steamer, cover, and steam for 45 minutes, or until the internal temperature of the center of the roll reaches 180°F. Remove from the heat.
Remove the log and set aside on a rack to cool to room temperature.
Refrigerate the log overnight.
To use, unwrap the roll and slice it.
*You can find Eco-Cuisine Seitan Quick Mix at www.eco-cuisine.com.
Yes, you can have hot dogs, and these big, fat dogs will fill a bun. If you prefer a more petite dog, simply divide the recipe into 6 portions rather than 5. You can also double this recipe easily and fill a freezer bag with hot dogs; they thaw quickly for throwing on the grill or sautéing. Try them in the Vegan Mac and Cheese with Hot Dogs recipe on page 136.
Yield: 5 (4-ounce) dogs • MIXING AND SHAPING TIME: 35 minutes, COOKING TIME: 45 minutes
6 ounces extra-firm tofu, pressed
2 large carrots, peeled and cut into chunks
2 tablespoons white miso paste
2 tablespoons vegetable or refined coconut oil
1 ¼ cups vital wheat gluten plus more for flouring
1 teaspoon beet powder, pressed through a small sieve
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon organic granulated sugar
2 tablespoons arrowroot powder
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
1 ½ teaspoons smoked salt
1 teaspoon onion powder
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground mustard
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
½ teaspoon agar powder
Set up a steamer (page 23). Tear off five 8-inch-by-6-inch sheets of foil and five 4-inch-by-6-inch sheets of parchment paper.
Add the carrots to the steamer and steam for 15 minutes.
Press the tofu repeatedly to remove as much water as possible. Crumble it into the bowl of a food processor fitted with the “S” blade. Add the carrots and miso to the food processor and puree until smooth. Add the oil, scrape down the sides, and process again.
In a large bowl, whisk together the remaining ingredients. Crush out any lumps of the beet powder. Scrape the tofu mixture into the dry mixture and stir until it becomes too stiff to work with; then knead with your hands until well combined.
Turn out the dough onto a work surface sprinkled with vital wheat gluten and shape it into a flat rectangle. Cut it into five equal portions (if you have a kitchen scale, weigh the pieces to ensure each is a 4-ounce portion of dough). Form and roll each portion into a hot dog–like shape. Wrap each hot dog in parchment paper and then again in foil, twisting the ends tightly (they should be snug, but not so tight that they can’t expand a little in the steamer).
Place the hot dogs in the steamer, cover, and steam for 45 minutes, or until they reach an internal temperature of 180°F. Remove from the heat.
To finish, fry in oil or grill on a well-oiled grill.
Whether you’re making pizza or pasta, you’ll be glad to have a few of these tasty sausages on hand. Sun-dried tomatoes and plenty of herbs and spices give this hard sausage a flavor kick that can carry a whole dish.
Yield: 6 sausages (1 ½ pounds) • MIXING AND SHAPING TIME: 30 minutes, COOKING TIME: 45 minutes
1 cup boiling water
¼ cup sun-dried tomato halves
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
¼ cup tomato paste
¼ cup dry red wine
¼ cup apple juice
¼ cup white miso paste
1¾ cups vital wheat gluten
¼ cup chickpea flour
¼ cup tapioca flour
2 tablespoons nutritional yeast
2 teaspoons fennel seeds
2 teaspoons dried basil
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon dried rosemary
1 teaspoon smoked salt
Pour the boiling water over the sun-dried tomatoes and set aside to soak for 20 minutes. Drain, reserving ½ cup of the soaking water. Finely chop the tomatoes and set aside.
Set up a steamer (page 23).
In a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, warm the oil. Add the onion and sauté, stirring constantly, until it starts to sizzle. Reduce the heat to low and sauté for at least 10 minutes, or until soft and sweet. Remove from the heat and scrape the onion and oil into a medium bowl. Add the sun-dried tomatoes, tomato paste, wine, apple juice, miso, and ½ cup of reserved tomato soaking water to the bowl and stir until well combined. Set aside.
In a large bowl, mix together all of the remaining ingredients. Pour the wet mixture into the dry mixture and stir until well combined.
Turn out the dough onto a floured work surface and divide it into six equal 4-ounce portions. Form each portion into a sausage link shape. Wrap each link in parchment paper and then again in foil, twisting the ends tightly to seal.
Place the links in the steamer, cover, and steam for 45 minutes, or until the internal temperature reaches 180°F. Remove from the heat.
Use in recipes or store for up to 1 week in the refrigerator, tightly wrapped.
If you enjoy Moroccan flavors, you’ll love to slide a few slices of this merguez into a tagine, a lentil soup, or your favorite meal. This is a firm, spicy sausage, and it looks beautiful on a charcuterie board. In this sausage, I used white potato pieces to mimic fat; if you don’t want to use potatoes, you can substitute the Fat for Sausages and Lunch Meats (page 47).
Yield: 2 (13-ounce) sausages • MIXING AND SHAPING TIME: 40 minutes, COOKING TIME: 1 hour
2 cups vital wheat gluten
½ cup chickpea flour
2 tablespoons harissa (a Moroccan dried spice blend)
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon anise seeds
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
1 tablespoon ground turmeric
2 teaspoons smoked salt
1 tablespoon organic granulated sugar
½ teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
½ cup diced white potatoes
1 cup apple juice
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
¼ cup water
2 tablespoons beet powder
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 teaspoons cider vinegar
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoons freshly grated ginger
Set up a steamer (page 23). Fold over a sheet of cheesecloth so it is doubled. Cut out two 9-inch square pieces and prepare twist ties or kitchen string for tying the ends.
In a large bowl, whisk together the vital wheat gluten, chickpea flour, harissa, coriander, cumin, anise seeds, cinnamon, paprika, turmeric, salt, sugar, and cayenne. Stir in the potatoes.
In a medium bowl, combine the apple juice, oil, water, beet powder, tomato paste, and vinegar and stir with a fork until the beet powder is dissolved. Stir in the garlic and ginger.
Pour the wet mixture over the dry mixture and mix until just combined; don’t knead, just mix well and make sure the potatoes are well distributed.
Turn out the dough onto a floured work surface and shape it into a flat rectangle. Cut it into two equal portions. Form and roll each portion into a 9-inch-long log. Wrap each log in parchment paper and then again in foil, twisting the ends tightly (they should be snug, but not so tight that they can’t expand a little in the steamer).
Place the logs in the steamer, cover, and steam for 45 minutes, or until they reach an internal temperature of 180°F. Remove from the heat.
Serve hot.
Spicy Sausage with Creole Sauce
This is my version of chaurice, a Creole sausage that’s often added to gumbo or red beans and rice. It’s spicy, and the creamy, mayo-based sauce makes a nice dip if you want to enjoy it simply sliced and warmed or on a charcuterie platter.
Yield: 6 links (1¾ pounds) • Mixing And Shaping Time: 30 minutes, Cooking Time: 50 minutes
For the sausages
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
½ cup dry red wine
½ cup water
¼ cup tomato paste
¼ cup white miso paste
1¾ cups vital wheat gluten
¼ cup chickpea flour
¼ cup tapioca flour
2 tablespoons nutritional yeast
2 tablespoons dried thyme
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
1 tablespoon dried minced garlic
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon chili powder
1 teaspoon smoked salt
¼ teaspoon allspice
½ cup chopped Fat for Sausages and Lunch Meats (page 47)
For the sauce
½ cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons ketchup
1 tablespoon Creole or other whole grain mustard
1 teaspoon vegan Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
Set up a steamer (page 23). Tear off five 8-inch-by-6-inch sheets of foil and five 4-inch-by-6-inch sheets of parchment paper.
Make the sausages: In a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, warm the oil. Add the onion and sauté, stirring constantly, until it starts to sizzle. Reduce the heat to low and sauté for at least 10 minutes, or until soft and sweet. Remove from the heat and scrape the onion and oil into a medium bowl. Add the wine, water, tomato paste, and miso to the bowl and stir until well combined. Set aside.
In a large bowl, whisk together the vital wheat gluten, flours, nutritional yeast, thyme, paprika, garlic, cumin, red pepper flakes, cayenne, chili powder, smoked salt, allspice, and chopped fat. Stir the wet mixture into the dry mixture until well combined.
Turn out the dough onto a floured work surface and divide it into six equal portions. Form each portion into a sausage link shape. Wrap each link in parchment paper and then again in foil, twisting the ends tightly.
Place the links in the steamer, cover, and steam for 50 minutes, or until the internal temperature reaches 180°F. Remove from the heat.
Make the sauce: Combine all of the ingredients in a small bowl and stir until well combined.
Serve the sausages hot with the sauce.
Fat for Sausages and Lunch Meats
Hard sausages are usually a mix of meat and chunky fat, and the fat chunks dapple the sausage slices. To achieve the same look, you can make this “fat,” a simple gluten-based stand-in. It’s easy to make ahead of time: just stir it up, wrap it, and steam. When cooled and chopped, it will look just like chunky fat in your Salami (page 50) or Moroccan Merguez (page 45). In those recipes, you can use it in place of the potatoes, garlic, or beans that mimic fat.
Yield: 2 ½ cups (13 ounces) chopped fat • Mixing And Shaping Time: 10 minutes, Cooking Time: 30 minutes
1 cup vital wheat gluten
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon organic granulated sugar
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon onion powder
2 teaspoons smoked salt
1 cup water
1 tablespoon refined coconut oil, melted
Set up a steamer (page 23). Tear off a 12-inch sheet of foil and a 10-inch sheet of parchment paper. Line the foil with the parchment paper.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the vital wheat gluten, sugar, onion powder, and smoked salt.
In a cup, stir together the water and oil. Stir the wet mixture into the dry mixture and knead with your hands just until mixed.
Place the dough on the parchment-paper lined foil and flatten it to a ½-inch thickness. Fold the parchment paper over the dough and wrap the dough with the foil tightly, crimping and sealing the packet.
Place the packet in the steamer and steam for 30 minutes, or until the internal temperature reaches 180°F. Remove from the heat. Set aside to cool completely.
Unwrap the packet and slice the fat into thin strips. Dice the strips into ¼- to ½-inch cubes, so they look like ground fat chunks.
Use in recipes or store for up to 1 week in the refrigerator, tightly wrapped, or up to 3 months in the freezer.
Baloney and Pepperoni