Strøget and the Inner City

Cafés and restaurants

Indre By (“inner city”) is Copenhagen’s heart and hub, its compact warren of narrow streets and cobbled squares home to the capital’s principal shopping district and countless bars and restaurants. For centuries Indre By was Copenhagen, springing into life with the arrival of Bishop Absalon in 1167, and fortified with stone walls until the nineteenth century. Historic buildings rub shoulders with modern but the area, bisected by the bustling pedestrianized thoroughfare of Strøget, is at its most atmospheric around the Latin Quarter, original home to the university, and pretty, colourful Gråbrødre Torv.

Strøget

The principal artery of the city’s main shopping district, Strøget is a series of five interconnecting pedestrian streets, over 1km in length, which runs from Rådhuspladsen to Kongens Nytorv. One of the world’s first pedestrian strips when it was created in 1962, it’s abuzz with life 24/7 from the constant flow of shoppers during the day and revellers at night. Street entertainers and fruit and snack sellers also ply their trade – the weeks before Christmas are especially lively, with carol singers, shoppers galore and delicious treats – such as æbleskiver (sweet, deep-fried apple dumplings) and gløgg (mulled wine) on sale.

The Rådhuspladsen end of Strøget, beginning with Frederiksberggade, is fairly tacky but the strip gradually goes more upmarket, running past some of the city’s oldest buildings and squares. On Gammeltorv (Old Square), look out for the Caritas Fountain, which predates the (much more famous) Manneken Pis in Brussels, and features a woman spraying water from her breasts as a small boy pees into the basin.

From here, Strøget continues past Amagertorv, culminating in a line of exclusive designer stores as it reaches Østergade and Kongens Nytorv.

Rundetårn

Købmagergade 52A 33 73 03 73, rundetaarn.dk. Tower: daily May to Sept 10am–8pm; Oct to April Mon & Thurs–Sun 10am–6pm Tues & Wed 10am-9pm. Observatory: Sun 1pm-4pm. 25kr; children 5–15 5kr; under-5 free.

Built by Christian IV in the mid-seventeenth century, the 42m-high Rundetårn (Round Tower) originally formed part of a larger complex, functioning both as church tower and observatory. The observatory, at the top of the tower, is still operational – the oldest of its kind still in use in Europe – and can be visited in wintertime, while the ascent, along a wide, cobbled walkway, is straightforward even for vertigo sufferers. As you make your way up, you can catch your breath at the modern art gallery in the former university library hall, and at the various other quirky exhibits en route, including Christian IV’s toilet. The view from the top, across the city’s many towers and spires, is fabulous.

Rundetårn

The Latin Quarter

Frue Plads.

In one of the city’s most historic areas, the buildings of the so-called Latin Quarter around Fiolstræde date back to the foundation of Scandinavia’s earliest university in 1475. Hailing from 1836, the grand neo-Gothic university building across Frue Plads from Vor Frue Kirke serves a primarily administrative purpose today – most of the university departments have relocated outside the city centre. On one side a row of busts of the university’s rationalist scholars – including Nobel prize-winning Niels Bohr – faces off against busts of religious men lining the cathedral wall opposite.

Helligåndskirken

Amagertorv helligaandskirken.dk. Mon–Fri noon–4pm (plus services on Sun).

One of the city’s oldest churches, dating back to the thirteenth century, the Helligåndskirken (Church of the Holy Ghost) was originally part of a Catholic monastery. Following the Reformation it became a Lutheran church, and although repeatedly destroyed (by fire and bombardment), an evocative section of the monastery, the Helligåndshuset, survives in the church’s west wing (to the left of the entrance) as the city’s largest and most intact medieval building. It’s not hard to imagine its past incarnation as a medieval hospital, beds crammed in between the slender granite columns that hold up the heavy vaulted ceiling. Today it houses regular flea markets, concerts and exhibitions.

Vor Frue Kirke

Frue Plads 33 15 10 78, domkirken.dk. Daily 8.30am–5pm, except during services.

The plain, rather sombre-looking Vor Frue Kirke (Church of Our Lady) dates from 1829 and has functioned as Copenhagen’s cathedral since 1923, though there’s been a church on this site since the eleventh century. It’s not until you’re through the heavy Doric-columned portal into the whitewashed Neoclassical interior that its more elegant features are revealed. A simple carved frieze above the altar accentuates a magnificent statue of Christ by Bertel Thorvaldsen; the statue’s hand positioning gave Thorvaldsen much grief before he finally decided on the open downward-facing position appreciated by both Catholics and Protestants alike. Thorvaldsen was also responsible for the statues of the twelve apostles that line either side of the nave.

In 2004, the cathedral briefly hit the international spotlight as the venue for the wedding of Crown Prince Frederik and his Tasmanian wife Mary.

Vor Frue Kirke

Amagertorv and Højbro Plads

If Strøget has a focal point, it’s the L-shaped interconnecting squares of Amagertorv and Højbro Plads. On the direct route between the once royal residence of Christiansborg and Vor Frue Kirke these two squares have borne witness to numerous coronation parties, royal weddings and (prior to the Reformation) religious processions. They’re especially bustling in summertime when the cafés set up outside and snack vendors and bicycle-rickshaw operators ply their trade. Tourists seem perpetually drawn to pose by the two artworks by sculptor Vilhem Bissen: an equestrian statue of Bishop Absalon and the Storkespringvandet (Stork Fountain), while a more recent addition is the beautiful mosaic paving by Bjørn Nørgaard.

Amagertorv

Købmagergade and around

On the corner of Strøget and the busy pedestrianized side street of Købmagergade, the Illum department store is one of the city’s top places to shop, full of leading labels including Acne, Kenzo and Paul Smith. Running off Købmagergade to the east is a super-trendy knot of lanes – most notably Pilestræde – littered with exclusive designer shops.

Strøget

University Student Centre

Fiolstræde 1 35 32 29 29, ku.dk. Check website for opening times. Free.

This striking building was designed by Johan Daniel Herholdt as the Copenhagen University Library and completed in 1861. The 400-year-old book collection had been housed in the nearby Trinitatis Kirke, and Herholdt’s building has a church-like quality with brick latticework and circular windows. The internal structure features the pioneering and elegant use of cast iron. In 2009, the collection was absorbed into the Royal Library and the building became the university’s Student Centre. Events are sometimes held here and the building is often included in tours of the city.

Kongens Nytorv

The city’s grandest square, Kongens Nytorv was for years the main entrance to the royal part of the city. It is currently largely hidden behind a metro construction site, and unlikely to be fully accessible before 2018.

The “King’s New Square” was laid out in 1670 by Christian V as part of a large urban expansion project. A 1688-era bronze statue of him thus stands at its centre – the oldest equestrian statue in Scandinavia, in fact. You’ll also come across a copper-clad Baroque telephone kiosk from 1913.

Det Kongelige Teater

Kongens Nytorv 33 69 69 33, kglteater.dk. Tours in English, usually daily in summer 11am & 1pm; 120kr.

Somewhat confusingly, Det Kongelige Teater (the Royal Theatre) comprises three buildings: the main building on Kongens Nytorv, the Opera House on Holmen and the Skuespilhuset. Built in 1874, the Kongens Nytorv theatre is by far the oldest of the three, and for years was the country’s main national performance venue, hosting opera, ballet and drama under one roof – though today it is primarily used for ballet. As a fourteen-year-old, Hans Christian Andersen is known to have tried his luck as a ballet dancer here though the audition was, by all accounts, a disaster. There are occasional guided tours of the theatre, although to fully experience its grandeur you’ll have to watch a performance.

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Shops

Bang & Olufsen

Østergade 18 33 11 14 15, bang-olufsen.com. Mon–Thurs 10am–6pm, Fri 10am–6pm, Sat 10am–4pm.

At B&O’s sleek flagship store you can check out their latest top-of-the-range sound and vision kit: good to look at even if it might stretch beyond your holiday budget. A pair of super-lightweight headphones in funky colours will set you back 1899kr.

Bruuns Bazaar

Kronprinsensgade 8–9 33 32 19 99, bruunsbazaar.dk. Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat 11am–4pm.

Two minimalist neighbouring stores selling simple, stylish and beautifully made clothes – ladies’ at no. 8, gents’ at no. 9 – created by in-house designers, hence the somewhat hefty price tag.

Day – Birger et Mikkelsen

Pilestræde 16 33 45 88 80, day.dk. Mon–Thurs 10am–6pm, Fri 10am–7pm, Sat 10am–5pm.

A two-storey fashion house selling own-design women’s garb with a colourful, ethnic twist. Prices from 700kr for a stripy T-shirt up to the 4500kr mark for a glittery cocktail dress.

Decadent Copenhagen

Store Regnegade 3 70 70 36 37, decadentcopenhagen.com. Mon–Fri 11am–5.30pm, Sat 11am–4pm.

The flagship store of this Danish line, founded in 2005, which makes high-quality, trendy yet practical leather handbags, as well as accessories such as wallets and jewellery boxes. Bags start at around 2800kr.

Ecouture By Lund

Læderstræde 5 27 58 57 30, ecouture.dk. Wed 2–5.30pm, Fri 2–6.30pm, 1st Sat of month noon–4pm.

This glamorous, bohemian women’s clothing line – with an organic/socially responsible attitude (hence the “eco” in the name) – is now in a central location, although opening hours remain restricted.

Georg Jensen

Amagertorv 4 33 11 40 80, georgjensen.com. Mon–Fri 10am–7pm, Sat 10am–6pm, Sun 11am–4pm.

Silverware designed in the spirit and style of the celebrated silversmith Georg Jensen, who first became known for his Art Nouveau-style jewellery in the early twentieth century. A small museum inside tells his story.

Hay House

Østergade 61 42 82 08 20, hay.dk. Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat 10am–5pm.

Colourful, funky household accessories, including furniture and rugs, mostly by cutting-edge Danish designers. A stunning modular sofa in grey wool will cost you 16,000kr.

Henrik Vibskov

Krystalgade 6 33 14 61 00, henrikvibskovboutique.com. Mon–Thurs 11am–6pm, Fri 11am–7pm, Sat 11am–5pm.

Weird and wonderful (and pricey) gear from Copenhagen’s enfant terrible clothes designer. Henrik – who is also an artist and drummer – is notorious for his colourful, flamboyant and über-trendy men’s and women’s wear.

Illums Bolighus

Amagertorv 10 33 14 19 41, illumsbolighus.dk. Mon–Fri 10am–7pm, Sat 10am–8pm, Sun 11am–6pm.

A Copenhagen institution, that’s been around since 1925, this gorgeous design department store sells everything from top-of-the-range clothes to furniture, lighting and kitchenware from major global designers, but with an emphasis on classic Danish design. It’s also the place to go year-round for beautiful Christmas decorations.

Jazzcup

Gothersgade 107 33 33 87 40, jazzklubben.dk. Tues–Thurs 10am–5.30pm, Fri 10am–6pm, Sat 10am–2pm.

Excellent music store specializing in jazz, blues, soul and world music. It also has a small café and hosts regular, intimate live shows (Fri 3.30pm, Sat 2.30pm).

Kassandra

Grønnegade 27 33 91 08 89, kassandra.dk. Mon–Fri 11am–7pm, Sat 10am–5pm.

One of the most beloved shoe stores in the city, with scores of the latest heels from highbrow labels that include Tom Ford, Givenchy, Valentino and Fendi. Also sells bags and accessories from the same designers.

Le Klint

Store Kirkestræde 1 33 11 66 63, leklint.com. Tues–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat 10am–4pm.

Founded by famous furniture designer Kaare Klint and his brother Tage, Le Klint’s lamps are now a globally sought-after brand. The firm’s current designers have maintained the simple, aesthetic style of the original classic designs.

Lego

Vimmelskaftet 37 stores.lego.com.

Mon–Thurs & Sat 10am–6pm, Fri 10am–7pm, Sun 11am–5pm.

A must for Lego connoisseurs of all ages, the flagship store even provides building tips and tricks, and can get you replacement pieces for those crucial ones you’ve lost from the colourful and never-ending Pick-a-Brick wall.

Louis Poulsen

Gammel Strand 28 70 33 14 14, louispoulsen.com. Mon–Fri 8am–5.30pm.

Beautiful lighting from top designers past and present including Poul Henningsen whose famous glare-free PH lamps, made up of concentric circular metal shades, were launched in this store many moons ago.

Mads Nørgaard

Amagertorv 13–15 33 32 01 28, madsnorgaard.com. Mon–Thurs 10am–6pm, Fri 10am–7pm, Sat 10am–5pm.

Good-quality, own-design everyday wear for women and children (at no. 13) and men (no. 15) in cheerful, often stripey colours. Prices are reasonable for what you get.

Magasin du Nord

Kongens Nytorv 13 33 11 44 33, magasin.dk. Daily 10am–8pm.

This age-old department store is still going strong, selling top-notch clothes and homeware. Head to the basement for the gourmet food hall, well stocked with organic and fair-trade foodstuffs and wines, You’ll also find magazines and newspapers from around the globe down here.

Munthe

Grønnegade 10 33 32 00 12, munthe.com. Mon–Thurs 10am–6pm, Fri 10am–7pm, Sat 10am–4pm.

Pricey and exciting – bordering on grungy – women’s clothing, designed by Naja Munthe. Known for its exquisite details, feminine lines and high-quality materials, the collection is completely renewed every three months.

Peter Beier Chokolade

Skoubogade 1 33 93 07 17, pbchokolade.dk. Mon–Thurs 10am–6pm, Fri 10am–7pm, Sat 10am–5pm.

Wonderful selection of handmade chocolates, made with the finest ingredients. The cocoa comes from their own plantation in the Caribbean.

Royal Copenhagen

Amagertorv 6 33 13 71 81, royalcopenhagen.com. Mon–Fri 10am–7pm, Sat 10am–6pm, Sun 11am–4pm.

Flagship store for the Royal Porcelain Factory’s famous china, distinguished by its blue patterning. The beautiful gabled store building, from 1616, is one of the city’s oldest, having survived countless city-centre fires. Prices start at 299kr for a decorated egg cup.

Sögreni of Copenhagen

Sankt Peders Stræde 30A 33 12 78 79, sogrenibikes.com. Mon–Sun 10am–6pm.

Sögreni’s beautiful handmade bikes are assembled in store, though with prices starting at around 12,000kr they don’t come cheap. It’s a great place to come and buy bike accessories, such as chain guards and lights, which are also designed and crafted in-house. Items begin at around 290kr for a pretty little copper bike bell.

Sømods Bolcher

Nørregade 36 33 12 60 46, soemods-bolcher.dk. Mon–Thurs 9.15am–5.30pm, Fri 9.15am–6pm, Sat 10am–3.30pm.

Dinky little confectioner that uses age-old methods – dating back to its establishment in 1891 – to produce beautiful boiled and hand-rolled candy in myriad colours and flavours.

Stig P

Kronprinsensgade 14 33 14 42 16, stigpofficial.com. Mon–Thurs 10.30am–6pm, Fri 10.30am–7pm, Sat 10am–5pm.

This colourful, welcoming women’s clothes store was the first to open on trendy Kronprinsensgade, way back in 1969. Danish designer wear includes Stig P’s own label.

Stilleben

Niels Hemmingsensgade 3 33 91 11 31, stilleben.dk. Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat 10am–5pm.

Funky ceramics, glass, textiles and much, much more from mostly Danish designers – quirky items that, once seen, you’ll never be able to live without.

Cafés and restaurants

Atlas Bar

Larsbjørnsstræde 18 33 15 03 52, atlasbar.dk. Mon–Sat noon–10pm.

Informal café-cum-restaurant serving affordable dishes from around the globe in a charming, laidback setting. There is an extensive vegetarian menu (including delicious nut burgers made with hazelnuts, carrots and celeriac; 135kr/160kr for lunch/dinner) with a good range of freshly made salads, and lots of freshly squeezed juices, too.

Bar’Vin

Skindergade 3 33 12 58 03, barvin.dk. Mon–Thurs 11.30am–11pm, Fri–Sat 11.30am–midnight.

The menu at this rustic, relaxed wine bar changes to match the wine (rather than the other way around), though the delicious charcuterie and cheese platters always remain a good bet. Expect to pay from 85kr for a sandwich and up to 395kr for a three-course meal.

Conditori La Glace

Skoubogade 3 33 14 46 46, laglace.dk. Mon–Fri 8.30am–6pm, Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 10am–6pm.

Traditional patisserie serving beautifully crafted layer cakes and pastries. Try the scrumptious HC Hat cake, made with chocolate, caramel mousse and lemon ganache (57kr per slice).

Dalle Valle

Fiolstræde 3–5 33 93 29 29, cafedallevalle.dk. Mon–Sat 10am–midnight, Sun 10am–11pm.

This spacious, bustling café is a great place for sandwiches and salads, with a few pasta dishes, burgers and steaks also on offer; scrummy hot wings, too (all around 100–130kr). Also a popular bar at night, with a DJ on Friday and Saturday.

Det Lille Apotek

Store Kannikestræde 15 33 12 56 06, detlilleapotek.dk. Daily 11.30am–midnight.

Dating back to 1720, the city’s oldest restaurant was once one of Hans Christian Andersen’s favourite haunts, and with its leadlight windows and hanging oil lamps it still retains plenty of old-time atmosphere. Highlights on the menu of traditional Danish dishes include biksemad (beef stew served with pickled beetroot, cucumber salad, fried eggs and slices of rye bread; 98kr) for lunch and flæskesteg (pork roast with crackling, sugar-glazed potatoes, pickled red cabbage and a thick, creamy sauce; 169kr) for dinner.

Europa 1989

Amagertorv 1 33 14 28 89, europa1989.dk. Mon–Thurs 7.45am–11pm, Fri & Sat 7.45am–midnight, Sun 9am–10pm.

Large, fancy café on bustling Højbro Plads serving excellent coffee and cake, good breakfasts (wholegrain porridge 39kr) and brunch (daily until 3pm; 149kr).It’s also a popular after-work spot, mostly for the drinks (the beer selection is good) and their excellent nibbles; try the shellfish bisque or bruschetta.

Kong Hans Kælder

Vingårdstræde 6 33 11 68 68, konghans.dk. Mon–Sat 6pm–10pm.

Set in the cellar of a medieval merchant’s house, where Hans Christian Andersen lived as a student, this Michelin-starred restaurant has a setting that is as dramatic as it is romantic. The picture-perfect food is French-inspired and immaculately presented. The five-course menu will cost you a mere 1700kr, not including wine, while an à la carte main starts at 550kr.

Krogs Fiskerestaurant

Gammel Strand 38 33 15 89 15, krogs.dk. Open for lunch and dinner, check website for details.

Though hidden behind the metro building chaos, the grande dame of the city’s seafood restaurants – all high ceilings and meticulously dressed tables – is worth the hassle to get to. Half a dozen Danish oysters from Limfjord will set you back 310 kroner, or – if you’re feeling flush – try the lobster with all the trimmings.

La Galette

Larsbjørnsstræde 9 33 32 37 90, lagalette.dk. Mon–Sat noon–4pm & 5.30–10pm, Sun 1–10pm.

Informal place serving French-style buckwheat pancakes with both sweet and savoury fillings. Specialities include the Menez-Hom (90kr), filled with goat’s cheese, walnuts and salad, and the Normande (60kr) with calvados-flambéed caramelized apples. In summer there’s outdoor seating in the back yard.

L’Education Nationale

Larsbjørnsstræde 12 33 91 53 60, leducation.dk. Mon–Sun 11.30am–midnight, Sun 4.30–10pm.

Authentic and cosy, French-style bistro with tightly packed tables and French-speaking waiters. Lunchtime standards, such as omelette (85kr) and moules marinières (89kr), are very reasonably priced. The evening menu is pricier but still good value (mains such as pheasant or sea bass around 200kr), and there’s an excellent selection of wines.

Marv & Ben

Snaregade 4 33 91 01 91, marvogben.dk. Tues–Sat 5.30pm–midnight.

Tucked away in a medieval cobblestone street, this gastropub repeatedly captures the Michelin Bib Gourmand award for New Nordic meals at exceptional value (four courses cost 400kr). The ingredients are organic and regional, and the wines are biodynamic. The historic venue exudes hygge – the Danish art of cosiness.

Maven

Nikolaj Plads 10 32 20 11 00, restaurantmaven.dk. Mon–Thurs 11.30am–midnight, Fri & Sat 11.30am–2am.

Inside the massive, red-brick Skt Nikolaj Kirke, a deconsecrated church that is now the Nikolaj Kunsthal hosting temporary exhibitions, Maven (“stomach”) offers excellent French/Italian-inspired lunch and dinner menus as well as traditional lunchtime smørrebrød (245kr for a platter). It’s also a popular spot for evening drinks.

Norden

Østergade 61 33 11 77 91, cafenorden.dk. Daily 8.30am–midnight.

A great pit stop on busy Strøget with fabulous home-made cakes and pancakes as well as beautifully assembled salads (from 180kr). There’s also a fine selection of beer (including from the Jacobsen brewery), a range of cocktails and a good few wines.

Paludan Bogcafé

Fiolstræde 10–12 33 15 06 75, paludan-cafe.dk. Mon–Fri 9am–10pm, Sat–Sun 10am–10pm.

With its free wi-fi and great-value meals – chicken tagliatelle (89kr) or the Paludan burger, for example – this bookshop-cum-café is a great student hangout. There’s also good coffee and cheap beer.

Peder Oxe

Gråbrødretorv 11 33 11 00 77, pederoxe.dk. Mon–Wed & Sun 11.00am–11.30pm Thurs–Sat 11.00am–midnight.

One of several cafés and restaurants on this historic square (once home to a Greyfriars monastery), serving juicy, grilled organic burgers (from 150kr) and steaks (235kr) plus unlimited salads (110kr). The “dessert tapas” platter (140kr) is an exquisite experience in itself. Also a good place to go for drinks.

Pilekælderen

Pilestræde 48 33 33 00 26, pilekaelderen.dk. Mon–Sat 11.30am–5pm.

Authentic, traditional lunchtime – and popular – restaurant with thick stone walls and a low wood-beamed ceiling. It specializes in stunning smørrebrød, such as herring marinated in elderberry and aquavit (69kr) – all home-made, of course. There’s also a tasty selection of Danish cheeses on offer.

Restaurant Schønnemann

Hauser Plads 16 33 12 07 85, restaurantschonnemann.dk. Mon–Sat 11.30am–12pm, 1pm–5pm.

This lunch-only spot is among the city’s most venerable eateries. While the original patrons were blue collar, today it’s a foodie destination for smørrebrød — Danish open-faced sandwiches. 110 kinds are on offer. Lunch platters (from 258kr) include pickled and marinated herring served with rye bread and lard. The drink pairing? Chilled schnapps, of course.

Royal Smushi Café

Amagertorv 6 33 12 11 22, royalsmushicafe.dk. Mon–Sat 10am–7pm, Sun 10am–6pm, Sun 11am–5pm.

In the courtyard of the Royal Copenhagen flagship store, the Royal Smushi Café is the originator of “smushi” (meaning sushi smørrebrød), with a selection that changes with the seasons. Try a platter of three smushi (147kr) or sample pairs for 98kr. Most locals consider these to be the best modern takes on smørrebrød in town. It can get very crowded, especially on weekends, so you might have to ask for your smushi to go.

Slotskælderen hos Gitte Kik

Fortunstræde 4 33 11 15 37, slotskaelderen.dk. Tues–Sat 10am–5pm.

Cosy basement restaurant serving excellent traditional smørrebrød. Choose from the vast selection at the counter, such as delicious rullepølse (rolled pork with parsley and pepper), and the food will be brought to your table.

Sult

Vognmagergade 8B 33 74 34 17, restaurantsult.dk. Tues–Fri 11.30am–10pm, Sat & Sun 9.30am–10pm.

Occupying a high-ceilinged dining hall in the same building as the Danish Film Institute, Sult does simple well-prepared Danish dishes that don’t cost the earth. Try the mouthwatering freshly cured ham from Jutland, served with grilled tomatoes and artichokes (145kr).

Vandkunsten Sandwich

Rådhusstræde 17 33 13 90 40, vsandwich.dk. Mon–Sat 10am–4pm.

An excellent place to grab a sandwich on the go (50–60kr), with lots of yummy vegetarian options (avocado mousse, mozzarella and so on) and freshly baked, crisp Italian rolls. There’s also a long list of creative flatbreads.

Bars

1105

Kristen Bernikows Gade 4 33 93 11 05, 1105.dk. Wed, Thurs & Sat 8pm–2am, Fri 4pm–2am.

Cool, elegant, low-lit cocktail bar, where the mixologists wear crisp white lab coats. 1105 has made a name for itself with the creation of the Copenhagen cocktail, a delicious mix of genever (Dutch gin), cherry liqueur, lime juice and a host of secret ingredients.

Bo-Bi Bar

Klareboderne 4 33 12 55 43. Daily noon–2am.

This Baroque, red hole-in-the-wall is one of the city’s most authentic watering holes. Opened in 1917, it sports Copenhagen’s oldest bar counter and attracts a refreshingly boho clientele of writers, students and intellectuals – great for people-watching. It serves cheap bottles of great Danish and Czech beers as well as local schnapps.

Charlie’s Bar

Pilestræde 33 33 32 22 89. Mon 2pm–midnight, Tues & Wed noon–1am, Thurs–Sat noon–2am, Sun 2–11pm.

Packed, small and smoky, Copenhagen’s only UK-style pub – even boasting Casque Mark accreditation – draws in the crowds night after night for its ever-changing range of British ales and ciders.

Fugu

Gammel Strand 42 fugu.dk. Wed 5pm–1am, Thurs 5pm–2am, Fri 4pm–4am, Sat 5pm–4am.

Set in a secret garden, Freddy’s Unique Garden Union is at the top of the heap of Copenhagen cocktail bars. The drink menu is seasonal and organic, from rosehip spirits to hokkaido pumpkin pale ale.

K-Bar

Ved Stranden 20 33 91 92 22, k-bar.dk. Mon–Thurs 4pm–1am, Fri & Sat 4pm–2am.

Tucked away around the corner from Højbro Plads, this funky cocktail bar has deep, cosy sofas into which punters can happily sink as they sip the beautiful concoctions of owner Kirsten – hence the K. Try the unusual and very moreish Petite Louise, made with champagne, aperol elderflower liqueur and rosemary.

The Living Room

Larsbjørnsstræde 17 33 32 66 10. Mon–Thurs 9am–11pm, Fri 9am–2am, Sat 10am–2am, Sun noon–7pm.

Laidback corner bar on chilled Larsbjørnsstræde, with tables outside and soft sofas in the basement. It’s a great place to go for freshly squeezed juices, organic wines, coffee and affordable cocktails.

Ruby

Nybrogade 10 33 93 12 03, rby.dk. Mon–Sat 4pm–2am, Sun 6pm–2am.

Set in what appears to be for all the world an unassuming ground-floor apartment, with comfy leather armchairs and no obvious signage, this is possibly the city’s best cocktail bar. Try the signature Rapscallion – a Scottish take on the Manhattan, with Talisker over a sweet PX sherry.

Music venues

Drop Inn

Kompagnistræde 34 33 11 24 04, drop-inn.dk. Mon–Thurs 2pm–2am, Fri–Sat noon–5am. Usually free Mon–Thurs; Fri & Sat from 30kr.

Small folk, blues and rock venue, with tables spilling onto the pavement during hot summer months and a good selection of international beers. Music from 10/10.30pm most nights (usually free during the week; from 30kr Sat & Sun).

Jazzhus Montmartre

Store Regnegade 19A 70 26 32 67, jazzhusmontmartre.dk. Doors open at 5.30pm.

Intimate, not-for-profit jazz club, which reopened in 2010 after having placed Copenhagen firmly on the international jazz map in the 1950s when it hosted legends such as Dexter Gordon and Stan Getz. Concerts two to three nights a week (100–350kr).

La Fontaine

Kompagnistræde 11 33 11 60 98, lafontaine.dk. Daily 7pm–5am.

As Copenhagen’s oldest jazz venue, La Fontaine has for decades been where jazz musicians make for on their nights off. It’s small and packed, with live gigs at the weekend (Fri–Sat from 10pm, Sun from 9pm; entry from 70kr).

Musikcaféen

Rådhusstræde 13 21 51 21 51, huset-kbh.dk.

On the third floor of the Huset cultural centre, this is the place to hear up-and-coming bands before they become famous. Gigs most nights, starting at 8 or 9pm (40–150kr).

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