Walking San Francisco

Can you smell the salt air and hear the seagulls? You’re in the right place.

PARKING: Off-street parking is available at Anchorage Square, corner of Leavenworth and Beach Sts. Most street parking is metered 7 days a week. On side streets south of Bay St. you might find unmetered street parking, limited to 2 hours for nonresidents (on Sunday you can park for an unlimited time in these zones).

Most San Franciscans roll their eyes at the thought of walking through Fisherman’s Wharf, but this is because they equate it with mass-produced T-shirts, overpriced waffle cones, and tacky tourist schlock. And while all of this does exist along the quay, you’ll also find a rich history of Italian and Chinese immigrants, a still-vibrant fishing trade, fascinating museums, and some unexpected surprises lurking beneath the surface. From penny arcades to submarines to barking seals—not to mention the gorgeous views of the Golden Gate Bridge and Alcatraz—the area is not without merit if you’re willing to look for the worthwhile sights. Further, to understand San Francisco is to understand how Fisherman’s Wharf came to be in the first place. So while street hawkers pitching soup in a bread bowl and wax museums lend an air of inauthenticity, there’s actually quite a bit of genuine San Francisco hiding in plain sight here.

Walk Description

Start at

Longshoremen’s Hall, a homely but historical structure at the corner of Mason and Beach Streets. It houses the headquarters of the International Longshoremen’s and Warehousemen’s Union. Bodies outlined on the sidewalk suggest that this corner was a crime scene, but these figures are tributes to the striking longshoremen who were shot by police in the general strike of 1934. The riot and shootings took place not here but at the corner of Mission and Steuart Streets, where the Coast Seamen’s Union kept its offices. A significant historic event did take place in this building in January 1966, when the Trips Festival was held here. The three-day event, organized by Ken Kesey (who penned One Flew over the Cuckoo’s Nest), rock promoter Bill Graham, and others, ushered in the hippie era. Entertainment was provided by the Grateful Dead, Big Brother and the Holding Company, light shows, and a “stroboscopic trampolinist” who hopped up and down while a strobe light flickered on him. The real point of the festival was to drop acid, and some 6,000 people showed up to do just that. Take a look through the plate-glass windows and imagine the place full of wigged-out flower children.

Turn right onto Beach Street, take a left on Stockton Street, and cross the Embarcadero to enter

Pier 39. This open-air shopping center is about as touristy as it gets, with businesses obviously preying upon impulsive shoppers. One attraction that is heads above, however, is the Smithsonian affiliate

Aquarium of the Bay, which features a walk-through fish tunnel and touch pools. If you’re not checking out marine life, then head straight to the San Francisco Carousel, a handcrafted classic, made in Italy. Horses and chariots rotate around a mechanical organ in the center, while hand-painted San Francisco scenes decorate the top. Rides cost $5. (Interestingly, when Pier 39 first opened, there was a diving pool where the carousel sits, and sometimes it was filled with Jell-O for various games.) When you reach the end of the pier, turn left to pay a visit to

K Dock, where a small colony of raucous California sea lions overtook a row of boat docks in 1990. The colony quickly grew, and now as many as 1,000 barking sea lions compete for space on the docks on a winter’s day. In summer, most of them migrate to warmer waters to breed, but a few usually haul out here year-round. They’re rightly the biggest attraction on Pier 39.

Exiting the pier, turn right onto the Embarcadero (which feeds into Jefferson Street), and walk two blocks until you see and smell

Boudin Bakery. The modern building is nothing much to look at, but the company has been providing the city with sourdough bread since 1849, and some of its “mother dough” is said to have been carried over from the first batch, surviving in the fog-cooled air.

Veer right onto Pier 45, and allow yourself to be drawn into the magical penny arcade

Musée Mécanique, the undeniable hidden gem of Fisherman’s Wharf. For some, it’s the only excuse to venture into this part of town. It’s the private collection of the late Edward Galland Zelinsky, consisting of mechanical amusements and games, mostly from the early 20th century. Risqué mutoscope moving pictures (mostly of women showing their ankles), player pianos, and old-fashioned black-and-white photo booths will easily suck the quarters out of your pockets. Save a few coins for the real showstoppers—automated displays of carnivals and circuses, toothpick Ferris wheels, and even a Chinese opium den with a dragon that peeps out from behind a curtain. Be sure to pump some quarters into Laffin’ Sal to keep her howling. Her belly laughs are infectious or terrifying, depending on your sensibilities. Some of the one-of-a-kind machines here are fine works of folk art.

Exit through the back doors onto the waterfront, where the sight of a submarine and a Liberty-class ship from World War II will tell you you’re on the right track. The submarine is the

USS Pampanito, which patrolled the Pacific during the latter half of the war. For 20 smackers, you can board the sub to see how uncomfortable life beneath the waves must have been, and to puzzle over the state-of-the art technology of a bygone era. The Liberty ship is the

SS Jeremiah O’Brien, a cargo-carrying vessel that delivered supplies to Normandy on D-Day. Fully outfitted and in working order, it was used to shoot scenes from Titanic, among others. For an additional $20, you can climb aboard—we suggest heading straight for the engine room for an astonishing view of the ship’s awesome 2,700-horsepower, triple-expansion steam engine. (Liberty ships were America’s answer to Hitler’s U-boats, and the goal was to build them as quickly as possible. Unbelievably, a ship as big as the Jeremiah O’Brien could go from start to launch in 60 days with the help of female riveters.)

Many wharf mainstays like The Grotto began as tiny seafood stalls intended to help Italian fishermen cover their operating expenses.

When you’re done exploring, head back on Taylor Street toward Jefferson Street. On the way you’ll pass the oldest seafood restaurants in the district. Fishermen’s Grotto No. 9 was the postcard establishment of the local tourism industry about half a century ago. In 1935, Sicilian immigrant Mike Geraldi transformed his humble fish stand into one of the city’s largest restaurants. It stayed in the Geraldi family for three generations and was sold in 2016 to new owner Chris Henry, who frequented the establishment as a kid. Renovations, in frequent consultation from the Geraldi family, confirm that Henry is committed to honoring the family’s tradition and also to breathing new life into the restaurant, now known simply as

The Grotto. Inside you’ll find a swanky midcentury bar and an elegant dining room over the water. Most of the seafood restaurants on the wharf are named for Italian families, reflecting the traditional preeminence of Italian fishermen in the local seafood industry. The families of fishermen often ran little seafood stalls to augment their income, and these eventually became restaurants. Most of the restaurants still operate sidewalk stalls, selling boiled crab and clam chowder served up in hollowed-out loaves of sourdough bread. These are your best bet if you’re hungry.

Between The Grotto and Alioto’s Restaurant (in business since 1925), look for a “blink and you’ll miss it” set of glass doors. Head through them to the inner lagoon, where the real working fishing boats of the wharf are docked (as opposed to the vessels catering to tourists, which line Jefferson Street). Head right to make your way to the simple wooden

Fishermen’s and Seamen’s Memorial Chapel. The charming chapel is dedicated to all who have lost their lives at sea and has a beautiful stained glass window, a gift from the Women’s Propeller Club. A full Roman Catholic Mass is conducted in Latin (the chapel is the only place in the Bay Area that still does so), and the first Saturday in October, the church hosts the Blessing of the Fleet, a seafaring tradition since medieval times. Returning to the lagoon, follow it back out to Jefferson Street, and turn right.

Just after Jones Street, you’ll see a tiny alley marked AL SCOMA WAY. If you’re a seafood lover, follow this path to reach family-owned-and-operated

Scoma’s, the only harbor restaurant with its own fishing boats and pier for the ultimate fresh catch since 1965. Linen tablecloths and suited waiters hark back to the days of yore, and this is one of the best places to try the cioppino (seafood stew) for which the wharf is famous. These bragging rights don’t come cheap, so be prepared to drop some coin.

Returning to Jefferson Street, you’ll find the

Alioto-Lazio Fish Company, just past Leavenworth, notable not only for its live crab (the only spot on the wharf that sells them this way) but for being owned and operated by three generations of women—a rarity in the male-dominated fishing world. Known around the wharf as “the girls,” the owners have earned respect and accolades for their grit, expertise, and strict attention to quality. Even if you don’t have room in your backpack for a live crab (they pack and ship too), they offer “crab shots” if you just want a small taste fresh off the boat. Across the street is

The Cannery, an old Del Monte canning plant that was converted into a shopping center in 1968. The old brick plant was built in 1907 for the Fruit Packers Association, which processed fruit and produce grown in the Central Valley and was at one time the largest such facility in the world. A courtyard that separates The Cannery from the brick Haslett Warehouse is a nice space where a few restaurants and a bar have tables on the patio and musicians perform around lunchtime. The olive trees in the courtyard are purported to be well over 100 years old. Beach Street lines the other side of The Cannery, and as the name implies this area was once completely under water. Beneath your feet lurk old pirate ships, silt, and a variety of other gold rush treasures.

In the Haslett Warehouse, at the corner of Jefferson and Hyde Streets, the

San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park Visitor Center is a gateway to the shipping history that pervades so much of this tour. There’s a beautiful antique lighthouse glass up front, affording a rare up-close look. The bulk of the space here is dedicated to excellent exhibits of art and archival material that tell the story of the seafarers and explorers who passed through the Golden Gate. Entry is free. Across Jefferson, the entry to

Hyde Street Pier is obvious, thanks to a large sign spanning the pier. You’ll also quickly spot the fleet of 19th-century ships tied up here. These include the Balclutha, a square-rigger that regularly traveled the route around Cape Horn from San Francisco to Europe; the Alma, a graceful flat-bottomed scow that transported grain to communities around San Francisco Bay; and the C. A. Thayer, a three-masted schooner that carried lumber up and down the Pacific Coast. There are many more vessels and items of interest here, and visitors are free to casually explore them. The pier itself was a ferry launch for Route 101 automobile traffic until the Golden Gate Bridge was completed in 1937. Current admission is $10.

Hyde Street Pier flanks one side of Aquatic Park, which slopes down to a narrow crescent of sand. A sidewalk leads from the pier round the beach, where you’ll spot hearty swimmers braving the icy cold waters of the bay.

Rather than round the beach, though, cut straight out on Hyde Street. (We’ll make our way back to the water in a few minutes.) The

Buena Vista Cafe, at the corner of Hyde and Beach, overlooks the park. It’s one of San Francisco’s classic saloons, having opened in 1916 in an old boardinghouse. The place stakes its reputation on having introduced Irish coffee to the United States in 1952, and there’s usually a row of glasses lined up on the bar awaiting hot coffee, a jigger of Irish whiskey, and a dollop of whipped cream. On a clammy San Francisco day, it’s just what the doctor ordered.

Turn right on Beach Street, and you’ll soon reach

Ghirardelli Square, to which the Ghirardelli Chocolate Company moved from its former location in Jackson Square (see Walk 6). The redbrick Chocolate Building was completed in 1899, and as the company grew, founder Domingo Ghirardelli’s sons added the Cocoa Building (1900), the Clock Tower (1911), and the Power House (1915). The huge sign atop the complex is one of San Francisco’s most recognizable landmarks. The company moved its operations to the East Bay in the early 1960s, and the complex reopened as a shopping center in 1964.

At the corner of Beach and Polk Streets, overlooking Aquatic Park, is the

San Francisco National Maritime Museum. Appropriately housed in the Art Deco Sala Burton Building, shaped like a steamship and replete with portholes, it was a public bathhouse and a casino before being repurposed as a museum. If you do nothing else, head to the lobby to see Hilaire Hiler’s whimsical floor-to-ceiling mural depicting a trippy underwater scene. Exhibits rotate both up- and downstairs, but you’ll note that the abstract mosaic work by Sargent Johnson on the veranda is unfinished. Originally hired by the Depression-era Works Progress Administration to work on a Federal Arts Project in 1939, Johnson became disillusioned when he realized that an exclusive private restaurant would bear the fruits of his labor and that it wouldn’t be available to the masses. As a matter of principle he quit, and the mosaic remains unfinished to this day. If the museum is closed, you can still admire Johnson’s green slate carvings around the front entrance.

From the Maritime Museum, make your way back toward the beach and turn left onto the walkway, which will lead to the eyelash-shaped

Municipal Pier, which gets you out into the bay without a boat.

Points of Interest

Longshoremen’s Hall 400 North Point St.; 415-776-8100

Pier 39 Beach St. and Embarcadero; 415-750-5500, pier39.com

Aquarium of the Bay Beach St. and Embarcadero; 415-623-5300, aquariumofthebay.org

K Dock Sea Lions Western dock near Beach St. and Embarcadero at Pier 39

Boudin Bakery 160 Jefferson St.; 415-928-1849, boudinbakery.com

Musée Mécanique Pier 45, Shed A, Fisherman’s Wharf and Embarcadero; 415-346-2000, museemecaniquesf.com

USS Pampanito Pier 45, Fisherman’s Wharf and Embarcadero; 415-775-1943, maritime.org/uss-pampanito

SS Jeremiah O’Brien Pier 45, Fisherman’s Wharf and Embarcadero; 415-544-0100, ssjeremiahobrien.org

The Grotto 2847 Taylor St.; 415-673-7025, thegrottosf.com

Fishermen’s and Seamen’s Memorial Chapel Pier 45, Fisherman’s Wharf, near intersection of Jefferson and Taylor Sts.; traditio.com/stjohn.htm

Scoma’s 1965 Al Scoma Way; 415-771-4383, scomas.com

Alioto-Lazio Fish Company 440 Jefferson St.; 415-673-5868, crabonline.com

The Cannery 2801 Leavenworth St.; 415-771-3112 (no website)

San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park Visitor Center 499 Jefferson St.; 415-447-5000, nps.gov/safr

Hyde Street Pier 2905 Hyde St.; 415-447-5000, visitfishermanswharf.com/hyde-street-pier

Buena Vista Cafe 2765 Hyde St.; 415-474-5044, thebuenavista.com

Ghirardelli Square 900 North Point St.; 415-775-5500, ghirardellisq.com

San Francisco National Maritime Museum 900 Beach St.; 415-561-7100, nps.gov/safr

Municipal Pier Aquatic Park, Van Ness Ave. and Beach St.; 415-561-7100, nps.gov/safr