Walking San Francisco

PARKING: Off-street parking at 50 Howard St.; metered street parking limited to 2 hours

PUBLIC TRANSIT: Embarcadero BART station; F streetcars (street level); J, K, L, M, N, S streetcars (underground); 1, 2, 7, 14, 21, 71 Muni buses

In recent years, the waterfront south of Market Street, like much of San Francisco, has changed dramatically. The development of luxury condominiums, high-rise office towers, and the Giants’ home base—AT&T Park—has brought new life to an area long ago abandoned by the shipping industry, which moved across the bay to Oakland in the late 1950s. The spanking-new NBA Warriors stadium will continue this trend.

Public art adds color and interest, as do restaurants and bars that get lively before and after baseball games, which are good times to take this walk (see the Sporting Green section of the San Francisco Chronicle for a schedule). Here and there are remnants of the Embarcadero’s long-gone stevedore days.

On this tour we’ll take a close look at the ongoing development of this precious strip of real estate, meander along the historic waterfront, pass the ballpark, and enjoy a stroll around the European-style park that played host to the first tech boom.

Walk Description

Start at the

Rincon Annex Post Office, at the corner of Mission and Spear Streets. It’s no longer a post office, and as you can see from the street, the modern Rincon Center rises up over the building’s back side. The historic post office, an Art Deco beauty dating to 1939, has been preserved in near-pristine condition and now serves as a unique foyer to the office tower. It was saved from demolition in 1978 primarily to protect the murals that grace the interior. Step inside for a look. From 1946 to 1948, Russian-born Anton Refregier painted 27 scenes depicting California history. Some common threads address concerns about freedom of speech and worship, for as Refregier worked on the murals such liberties were threatened in Europe, where Communism was spreading, and also in America, where anti-Communist paranoia had the country in its grip. Refregier’s unromanticized scenes are populated by serious, often somber characters. Pass through the lobby into the newer Rincon Center, and you’ll reach a large, classy food court, with tables and chairs arranged around a “rain column”—water pours from the ceiling, several floors above, expands as it falls, and then appears to collapse neatly as it hits a stone platform on the floor. Your best choice for a light bite here is

Yank Sing, one of the best dim sum places in the city.

A block east down Mission Street, at Steuart Street, the

Audiffred Building looks like no other San Francisco landmark. It was built in 1889 by Hippolyte d’Audiffred, a French immigrant who in San Francisco sold charcoal to Chinese laundries and parlayed his earnings into real estate. He is believed to have designed this building himself, although he had no training as an architect. Consequently, the Audiffred Building is an unusual amalgam of styles—a New England–style brick structure with Victorian and Gothic details, capped with a mansard roof reminiscent of d’Audiffred’s native France. The ground floor was originally occupied by the Bulkhead Saloon, popular with sailors and wharf hands, and the Coast Seamen’s Union kept offices upstairs. Local legend maintains the building survived the 1906 fires thanks to a savvy barkeep, who bribed the fire department with a cart of wine and whiskey. The surrounding buildings all burned to the ground while drunk firemen trained their hoses on the Audiffred Building. During the early 1950s, the upper floors served as artist lofts, and poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti (who also paints) was among the creative souls who rented space here. Today, the ground floor is occupied by Chef Nancy Oakes’s excellent

Boulevard Restaurant, and its interior design is redolent with Belle Époque details. The restaurant jumps during the weekday lunch hour, when free-spending office workers pour into its swank booths, and its bar is always a lively spot for a classy cocktail.

Across Mission Street is a monument to the striking longshoremen who were gunned down by police during a demonstration in 1934. It was on this corner that police fired into the crowd, killing Howard Sperry and Nick Bordoies.

Continue around the Audiffred Building and turn right onto the Embarcadero. The

Aurora fountain at the corner of Howard and Steuart is the work of the late artist Ruth Asawa (1926–2013). The child of Japanese immigrants, Asawa was frequently inspired by origami paper-folding techniques. With multiple public art displays around the city, she was nicknamed the Fountain Lady. Farther along the Embarcadero at No. 250 is the headquarters for

Gap, the well-known purveyors of casual clothing. The company was founded in 1969 by Donald and Doris Fisher and has grown to include more than 3,500 stores. Gap (originally The Gap) began by marketing inexpensive blue jeans for teenagers; the name refers to the so-called generation gap of the late 1960s. Peer through the building’s glass doors for a look at Richard Serra’s huge metal sculpture, which dominates a five-story atrium. It’s called Charlie Brown, although it bears no resemblance to Charles M. Schultz’s prematurely bald cartoon character.

The Phoenix fireboat has been part of the city’s maritime firefighting crew since the 1950s.

Cross the Embarcadero at Folsom Street for an up-close look at

Cupid’s Span, Coosje van Bruggen and Claes Oldenburg’s 60-foot-high representation of the little cherub’s bow and arrow, looking as if it fell from the sky and embedded itself into the ground here.

Continue walking along this side of the Embarcadero. By now, you’re already enjoying a wonderful perspective of the Bay Bridge, which you’ll soon be walking under. On the way, at Harrison Street, you’ll pass the Hills Bros. Coffee Building, with its huge, eye-catching neon sign. Just as you reach the shadow of the bridge, take note of the

Pier 22½ fire station, where two antique fireboats are docked. Phoenix, which was built in 1954, was used to pump water out of the bay to douse fires in the Marina after the 1989 earthquake. Afterward, Marina residents donated funds to purchase Guardian, a lovely vessel built in 1951.

The underbelly of the Bay Bridge is an awesome sight. The size of the bridge and the effort that went into building it are difficult to comprehend, especially from this informed vantage point. The bridge hits land at the southern side of Rincon Hill, which in the 1850s and ’60s was the city’s most fashionable neighborhood. It was here that the first millionaires of the gold rush city built their magnificent mansions. There’s no sign of the hill’s former splendor, as the area declined following development of Nob Hill in the 1870s. After more than a century of neglect, compounded by construction of the bridge in the 1930s, new condominiums and offices, including the 60-story One Rincon Hill, are going up in this part of town, making Rincon Hill once again a desirable address.

On down the Embarcadero, at Pier 28, you’ll spot an old tavern left from the waterfront’s heyday. Called the

Hi Dive, it’s a smart little joint where you might enjoy a beer and a view of the bay. At Pier 30, in an unprepossessing little shack suspended over the water, is

Red’s Java House, a classic once patronized by old salts and longshoremen. It still attracts average Joes today, along with suited office workers. Head on in to this historic joint. In back, toward the loo, the walls are covered with photos by Bruce Steinberg, taken in 1971. These include shots of Red himself, looking every bit the wiry and fierce-tempered grill chef. He doubtless ran an orderly establishment. Red is no longer around, but you can still order a greasy cheeseburger on sourdough and a cold bottle of Bud for $10 and some change.

Immediately to the south is the

Brannan Street Wharf, a waterfront park that replaced the slowly rotting Pier 36 in 2013. The green lawn, benches, and interpretive displays are a welcome change from the previously fenced off area. The son of the late soul singer Otis Redding was on hand to croon “Sittin’ on the Dock of the Bay” at the ribbon cutting.

Moseying on down the waterfront, keep your eyes peeled for the historical marker at the far end of Pier 30, which lists the names of 23 men who died while building the Bay Bridge.

AT&T Park begins to exert its gravitational pull here, especially before games, when a stream of pedestrians will be headed in its direction. Approach along the bay, through South Beach Harbor, where sailboats and yachts are docked. The huge Coke bottle and antique mitt loom over the left-field bleachers. Follow the curve of the stadium to where the right field arcade overlooks McCovey Cove. Along this side of the ballpark, an iron gate permits a view to nonpaying fans, who are allowed to stand and watch part of the game from the field level, just a few paces beyond the right field warning track. Staff clear the area every three innings to make room for a fresh crowd. Every few months or so one of the ballplayers launches a titanic home run that plops into McCovey Cove, and it’s usually a race between kayakers and dogs to see who can retrieve the ball.

Walking in the same direction around the ballpark leads to a statue of Juan Marichal, the legendary Dominican pitcher (from 1960 to 1973) whose menacing, high-kick delivery was a beautiful sight to Giants fans. A little ways farther is Willie Mays Plaza, with a statue of the greatest ballplayer to wear a Giants uniform. (Some say he was the greatest, period.) For two decades Mays hit for power, stole bases, and played the outfield with extraordinary ability, intuition, and spirit. He began his career with the New York Giants in 1951, coming to San Francisco when the team relocated in 1958.

Continue circling the stadium on King Street and turn left on Second Street. After crossing Townsend, you’ll reach independent bookseller and publisher

Chronicle Books’s headquarters and retail store, nested in an old maritime machine shop and warehouse. Peek in to check out the latest offerings from this innovative literary house that has been serving up stories since the 1960s. Farther up on Second and across the street is the much-lauded

21st Amendment Brewery, which has been “celebrating the right to be original” since 2000 and is now one of the nation’s largest craft breweries. It’s a fine place for pub grub and a pint from constantly rotating taps. The name stems from the amendment that repealed prohibition. Before the 1920s, more than 40 breweries operated within the city’s limits (and there were far fewer people then!); 21st Amendment is doing its part to honor San Francisco’s brewing legacy.

If you’ve paused for a pint, cross Second Street and head straight onto South Park, a secluded city block shaped like a racetrack. The street loops around a pleasant green with a playground and spacious lawn that attracts more dogs than children. The street is a mix of Victorian residences, converted warehouses, and contemporary lofts that reveal much, but not all, of South Park’s history. In the 1850s, an Englishman named George Gordon,developed the land here as an exclusive community in the style of a London square. Elegant homes were built and gold rush millionaires moved in. South Park’s heyday lasted little more than a decade, as the rest of the South of Market area spread out and the working poor closed in on this tony little haven. By the time Jack London was born around the corner from here, in 1876, South Park was the home of immigrants and longshoremen. The 1906 quake and fire destroyed the block, and many of the apartments and warehouses built in the quake’s aftermath remain. Among these are the former Sherman-Clay & Co. piano warehouse near the southeast corner. In the 1970s and ’80s, the street began attracting artists and soon acquired a postindustrial cachet. By the late ’90s, South Park was considered the heart of San Francisco’s “Multimedia Gulch,” as dozens of startup companies set up shop in the surrounding blocks drawn by flexible office space and low rent. That all ended abruptly in the early 2000s, but this quiet enclave retains a lively and interesting feel.

Caffè Centro, serving panini and hot Italian plates, is a great way to embrace the European vibe.

When you’ve had your fill of South Park, traverse to the far end and make a right on Third Street to make your way back toward the ball park. Shortly after Willie Mays Plaza, you’ll cross the Lefty O’Doul Bridge, named for Francis “Lefty” O’Doul, a ballplayer and San Francisco native who won the National League batting crown in 1929 with a remarkable .398 average. O’Doul managed the San Francisco Seals, of the Pacific Coast League, from 1935 to 1951. The bridge named for him is a charmer, a Strauss trunnion bascule span built in 1933 that crosses narrow Mission Creek.

Backstory: The Historic F Lines—Moving Forward, Looking Back

You’ve likely noticed the classy vintage streetcars moving along steel rails down Market Street and along the Embarcadero. Providing old world glam to public transit, these beloved heritage cars almost never came to exist.

San Francisco’s Market Street is no stranger to traffic. First there were steam trains, then horse-drawn carriages, followed by cable cars. When the 1906 earthquake destroyed the cable system, the city rebuilt Market Street with newfangled electric streetcars. But times and fashion change. With the advent of BART in the 1960s and other underground transit options later on, it seemed that streetcars would soon be a thing of the past.

In 1982, however, the iconic cable car system was completely shut down for an overhaul that lasted nearly two years. Worried that this would disappoint tourists, the idea was born to create an alternative historical rail attraction: the San Francisco Historic Trolley Festival. The city rolled out a handful of vintage streetcars, including the very first car from 1912, for limited service on weekends, and the measure was a smashing success. So great was the enthusiasm for the trolley festival that it was extended far after the cable cars were up and running.

After the 1989 earthquake forced the removal of the Embarcadero freeway, new life was breathed into the waterfront, now liberated from the shadow of a giant cement overpass. Thus, in 1995, the F streetcar line was born. Today it serves more than 20,000 riders daily.

Hailing from as far away as Moscow, Osaka, and Melbourne, abandoned streetcars have been renovated and given a serious spit shine; the oldest car in the fleet was built in 1895. You never know which streetcar will roll up, and locals eagerly anticipate favorites like the open-air boat-tram from Blackpool, England, and the streetcar from New Orleans named—you guessed it—Desire. And unlike the cable cars, streetcars cost the same to ride as a regular bus. Hop on and these museums in motion will inspire you to celebrate the past while whisking you to the future.

Once across the bridge, hook left and walk along McCovey Cove on the opposite side from the ballpark. This is

China Basin Park. You’ll reach a statue of Willie McCovey (1938–2018), the slugging first baseman who was known as “Stretch” for his great size and for his ability to reach for wild throws to first. McCovey began his career in 1959 and retired in 1980. Also in the park is a perfect T-ball field with a pint-size diamond for pipsqueak players.

Points of Interest

Rincon Annex Post Office (former) 101–199 Mission St. (no published phone number or website)

Yank Sing 101 Spear St.; 415-781-1111, yanksing.com

Audiffred Building and Boulevard Restaurant 1 Mission St.; 415-543-6084, boulevardrestaurant.com

Aurora Fountain 188 Embarcadero

Gap Headquarters 2 Folsom St.; 800-333-7899, gap.com

Cupid’s Span Rincon Park, Embarcadero and Folsom St.; oldenburgvanbruggen.com

Pier 22½ Fire Station 399 Embarcadero; 415-558-3200, sf-fire.org/fire-station-locations

Hi Dive Pier 28½, Embarcadero and Bryant St.; 415-977-0170, hidivesf.com

Red’s Java House Pier 30, Embarcadero and Bryant St.; 415-777-5626, redsjavahouse.com

Brannan Street Wharf Piers 30–38, Embarcadero and Brannan St.

AT&T Park 24 Willie Mays Plaza (corner Third and King); 415-972-2000, mlb.com/giants/ballpark

Chronicle Books 680 Second St.; 415-537-4200, chroniclebooks.com

21st Amendment Brewery and Restaurant 563 Second St.; 415-369-0900, 21st-amendment.com

Caffè Centro 102 South Park St.; 415-882-1500, caffecentro.com

China Basin Park Terry A. Francois Blvd. and Third St.; 415-274-0400, fport.com/parks-and-open-spaces