Walking San Francisco

The rocky wildness of Bernal Hill feels miles from downtown, but the views prove otherwise.

Bernal Heights rises up from the southern edge of the Mission, where narrow streets dead-end long before they can reach this rocky, windswept hilltop. The broad views of the Mission, Potrero Hill, the bay, and the distant downtown skyline are fantastic—but that’s par for the course in San Francisco. What makes this walk especially alluring is the suddenness with which the sheltered, slightly funky Bernal Heights neighborhood turns into a rugged chunk of wilderness. The hill is home to many red-tailed hawks that glide silently about the slopes.

Backstory: Eureka? We Didn’t Actually Find It!

Like the rest of San Francisco, Bernal Heights was struck by the lure of the gold rush. So in 1896, when Frenchman Victor Ressayre claimed to have found gold at the top of Bernal Hill, excitement understandably ensued. Residents flocked to the hill with all manner of excavating equipment, feverishly trying to strike it rich in their own backyard. Word spread as far south as Los Angeles, and gold-hungry hordes descended on the area, setting up makeshift stores selling beer and sundries. Alas, the excitement came to an abrupt end less than a month later, when it was discovered that quartz, not gold, had been found. Some grumbled that perhaps a savvy Ressayre—a beer salesman by trade—simply wanted to bring more commerce to the area.

Wear good hiking shoes for this walk. And if you have a dog, bring it along and free it from its leash—you’ll both fit right in. Descending Bernal Hill, you will gain appreciation of the funky architecture, lively gardens, and community projects that imbue this neighborhood with such warmth and homegrown appeal.

Walk Description

Begin at

Charlie’s Café, which sits on Folsom Street across from the western end of Precita Park. You can grab a cup of coffee to fuel your uphill walk and pause for a moment to soak in the arty, community-minded vibe that characterizes this leafy, residential pocket to the north of Bernal Hill. Opened in 2001, Charlie’s Café, named for its owner Charles Harb, embodies this spirit, as he greets customers by name, hangs local art on the walls, and invites neighborhood bands to cram into his tiny joint.

As you head south on Folsom, the street rises steadfastly, as though developers entertained thoughts of making it clear the hill in a straight shot. However, within two blocks, as the going gets rough the road abruptly swerves to the left. Just as suddenly, you’re above the rooftops, amid the grassy, rocky terrain for which Bernal Heights is known. If it’s the rainy season, wind, clouds, and mist swirl about the green face of the hill. In spring, the hill is covered with wildflowers. In summer, it’s an arid scape of red rock and yellow grasses. There’s a dog for just about every human up here.

Folsom curves up to Bernal Heights Boulevard. Turn right, pass the gate (which prohibits cars from entering), and you’ll enter Bernal Heights Park. The road loops up a fairly easy incline around the hill. The long, straight boulevards that slice through the Mission District drop into view behind you. Down below the road, along the western side of the hill, look out for narrow, unofficial trails (which at times fade beneath new grass or fallen pine needles)—these lead to hidden gardens planted by local residents on city property. The steps leading down to Esmeralda Street lead to some of these gardens.

Backstory: Bernal Heights Outdoor Cinema

Bernal Heights naturally attracts creative types, and to prove it, every fall the neighborhood showcases the works of local filmmakers in an outdoor film festival. Films are shown on Saturday nights during the months of September and October. The filmmakers usually give a talk in a local café, then everyone proceeds to a nearby park (sometimes Bernal Heights Park), where the film is shown as the sun goes down. It’s a fun and social event, and so popular that they’ve added indoor screenings in April and June called “Face to Face with the Filmmaker.”

Musician Michael Franti has shown his work in the festival, and Ralph Carney has scored films screened during the festival. The neighborhood’s best known filmmaker is Terry Zweigoff, director of such delights as Bad Santa and Ghost World. So far, the festival hasn’t featured Zweigoff’s work. All events are free and run by generous volunteers. For information, check bhoutdoorcine.org.

On the south side, where the road is gated, a wide, rocky path corkscrews up toward the top of the hill. The red rock here is chert, and is the same stuff found up on Corona Heights. Follow the trail up. On blustery days, you might see several hawks hovering in place about 20 feet overhead, their wings stretched wide, adjusting perceptibly to keep the wind beneath them. The birds keep very still up there, stealthily scanning the ground for potential prey. Stand beneath them and you’ll have about as good a look (without the aid of binoculars) as you could ever hope to get of wild raptors in action. If you’re lucky, the Bernal Heights swing will be beckoning from the tree at the top of the hill, offering you a chance to feel the wind beneath your feet as well. It’s taken down occasionally for repairs; but locals seem determined to keep it aloft, and the view from the perch is amazing.

The path loops around the summit, with unbroken perspectives of the city and the bay. Cross over the cement barricade to follow the looping dirt trail; there are ledges and lookouts and little spur trails. It’s not a huge area, but you’ll want to roam about a bit before returning to Bernal Heights Boulevard. A broad shale path leads down from the top. Look for Anderson Street and stroll on down past a hodgepodge of residential architectural styles. Bernal Heights was never a wealthy district, although today these homes sell for a pretty penny (as do all homes in San Francisco). The narrow streets, many of which curve abruptly to avoid steep grades, give the area an offbeat, Montmartre-like feel.

Follow Anderson down to Cortland Avenue, the main commercial strip. Make a right; you’ll find good places to eat, coffee shops, and a bookstore. Bernal doesn’t generally draw much business from out-of-towners or even from people who live elsewhere in the city, making this a very neighborly sort of urban backwater. That’s not to say it’s backwards. Fine restaurants here include

Moki’s Sushi and Pacific Grill, for pan-Asian delights, and the family-friendly

Bernal Star, where they serve up gourmet burgers (including lamb, buffalo, and wild boar!) and screen movies on their heated back patio. One of the first lesbian-owned, lesbian-operated, and lesbian-welcoming bars in the city, the historic

Wild Side West had a rough ride initially, as empty toilets and junk were left on the street in front of their newly minted bar. Undeterred, the plucky owners turned the refuse into funky art in their magical downstairs beer garden, and decades later the bar is a cornerstone of the neighborhood. Drawing a friendly mixed crowd, the Wild West Side is known for being the best watering hole on the hill.

As Cortland begins to descend back down to Mission Street turn right on Elsie Street. Just off the corner, note the 19th-century barn that was converted into a house ages ago. Two blocks down, Virginia curves up to meet Elsie. Follow it and you’ll see some of the neighborhood’s finest Victorian homes. Local residents are cultivating a garden along the right side of the road, beneath the curved retaining wall. A block down, turn right on Winfield Street, which runs in a straight line to the north side of the hill. Where Winfield Street hits Esmeralda Street, a community mosaic points the way to the

Esmeralda Slide Park, where a slick 35-foot slide runs down a beautiful community garden. At its inauguration in 1979, then-Mayor Dianne Feinstein took a giggling ride down; we recommend that you grab a piece of cardboard and do the same.

Continuing along Winfield Street, take a left turn on Coso Avenue and you’ll soon reach pretty Mirabel Avenue. Mirabel dead-ends at Shotwell Street, and a small set of stairs will lead you down to Bessie Street, meandering past the funky artful homes that characterize Bernal as you make your way back to the expansive lawn and sweet playground of Precita Park, once the stomping grounds of Carlos Santana. After all that climbing, you deserve a drink or an ice cream at the

Precita Park Cafe, across the street from the eastern side of the park. Opened in 2011, the vibrant café has become the de rigueur meeting spot for families meeting up at the playground and is an excellent place to soak in the environs.

Points of Interest

Charlie’s Café 3202 Folsom St.; 415-641-5051 (no website)

Moki’s Sushi and Pacific Grill 615 Cortland Ave.; 415-970-9336, mokisf.com

Wild Side West 424 Cortland Ave.; 415-647-3099, wildsidewest.com

Bernal Star 410 Cortland Ave.; 415-695-8777, bernalstar.com

Esmeralda Slide Park Esmeralda and Winfield Sts.; sites.google.com/site/esmeraldaslidepark, esmeraldaslidepark@gmail.com

Precita Park Cafe 500 Precita Ave.; 415-647-7702, www.precitaparkcafe.com