Walking San Francisco

In this bakery, Russian piroshki share a display case with Jewish challah and apple strudel.

PARKING: Street parking is metered, with 2-hour limits. Parking is very difficult to find on weekends.

Clement Street in the Inner Richmond District will always be “New Chinatown,” even though Chinese immigrants have been operating businesses here since the 1970s. The area naturally invites contrast with the old Chinatown, and indeed there are interesting similarities and differences. Being out in San Francisco’s Fog Belt, Richmond has always attracted more than its share of immigrants, and there’s plenty of evidence of many waves of newcomers, some of whom are obviously still here. To be sure, along Clement you’ll find roasted ducks hanging in windows, along with steamed pork buns, produce stalls, and bargain bazaars to rival, if not surpass, those of the old Chinatown. But in the mix you’ll also encounter the city’s best used-book store, Russian bakeries, Korean barbecue joints, Irish bars, Israeli delis, bohemian cafés, and loads of Southeast Asian restaurants. This walk is sort of an eating and shopping excursion that needn’t involve maxing out your credit card. The main idea is to snoop around a bit to see what sorts of intriguing items you might find along Clement, one of the city’s more interesting streets. Unlike much of gentrified San Francisco, the Inner Richmond allows an authentic glimpse into the waves of immigrants who have made the city their home.

Walk Description

As much of this walk concentrates on culinary delicacies, it makes sense to begin a few steps north of Clement Street on Arguello at

Arsicault Bakery, named Bon Appétit’s Bakery of the Year in 2016. A hole-in-the-wall establishment with just a few tiny tables, Arsicault has lines that invariably extend out the door for croissants described as “impossibly tender and buttery on the inside” by the magazine’s seasoned tasters.

Head west on Clement. If the fog is blowing the other way, you’ll know you’re headed in the right direction. If it’s daytime, the

Plough and the Stars pub, at No. 116, will be closed, which is just as well as we aim to get a little walking done. Note that this is no fake Irish pub, which should be apparent from the bar’s exterior, which doesn’t bother to project a St. Paddy’s Day party atmosphere. Instead, the place has genuine spirit. Irish musicians perform here every night, and many of the patrons come to do a little fancy steppin’.

Passing numerous Chinese and Vietnamese restaurants, many of which may merit a visit, make your way to No. 309, the much-lauded

Burma Super Star. Despite the glamorous implications of its name, Burma Super Star is a tranquil place that serves a type of cuisine not commonly found in the United States. The food of Myanmar is spicy and aromatic, with rich curries and sizzling vegetables bringing together the influences of both East and South Asia. Sure enough, this little joint is very popular.

On the next corner,

Toy Boat Dessert Cafe is an ice cream parlor. While you’re waiting for your server to scrape your scoops, check out the store’s amusing array of toys and novelty items, such as Pez dispensers and Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle dolls.

Down Clement at No. 525–547,

Kamei Housewares and Restaurant Supplies takes up two buildings, each filled to the rafters with utilitarian crockery, knives, bamboo placemats, chopsticks “for special guests,” soup bowls, rice bowls, clay pots, and teapots. Across the street,

Green Apple Books and Music is a large emporium of new and used books. It’s a densely packed series of rooms both upstairs and down, with additional space a little ways down the block—some patrons have been known to simply disappear here, never to be seen again. The beloved seller opened in 1976 with 750 square feet of space; today Green Apple takes up more than 8,000 square feet, its devoted loyalists ensuring that it isn’t squeezed out by online sellers thanks to its robust lecture and events series.

Chinese markets sell a variety of unusual foods that aren’t widely available outside of Asia.

New May Wah Supermarket, at No. 719, is exactly the sort of place you expect to find in a Chinatown-ish nabe. It has an endless aisle devoted to Asian snacks—shrimp puffs, Pocky (think KitKats on sticks), and the like—and other rows fully stocked with bean sauces, fish sauces, and canned tropical fruits of the kind that aren’t widely grown in the States: rambutan, durian, soursop, and lychee, among others. Take a gander at the impressive butcher and fish market as well.

Wander out past Park Presidio Boulevard, and you’re committing yourself to a fairly long walk extending into the Outer Richmond District. You could hop on a No. 38 bus for the return trip, but if you’re up for more exploration, making your way down Geary will give you a glimpse into Little Russia, which makes for an interesting contrast with New Chinatown.

Make a left on Funston Street before cutting across it to take the greenbelt through Park Presidio. At 300 Funston, in a former Christian Science Church, the

Internet Archive is quietly creating the world’s largest digital library. The nonprofit brainchild of Brewster Kahle, an early internet developer and advocate of “universal access to all knowledge,” the Internet Archive heads such projects as the Wayback Machine and the Open Library. Thrilled to find a new home that matches its logo (which is based on Egypt’s Alexandria Library), the archive welcomes visitors. Next, follow the Park Presidio greenbelt south toward Geary and turn right.

Kabuto Sushi, at 5121 Geary, is a nondescript-looking sushi joint that faithful fans swear is the city’s finest. A block farther,

Russian Renaissance Restaurant has been serving up hot borscht and sweet blini since 1959. This stretch of Geary and environs, extending toward the golden onion domes of the Russian Orthodox Church, is home to nearly 100,000 Russian Americans who have been arriving in waves since the 1920s when anti-Communist Russians fled the Revolution. As you walk, look for bakeries, tearooms, and bars sporting Cyrillic-lettered signage.

After crossing 18th Street, cross the street to where

Joe’s Ice Cream has been scooping up deliciousness under the same pegboard sign since 1959. They also have an old-school lunch counter and swivel chairs for a trip back in time. A few blocks farther and across the street,

Ton Kiang, at No. 5821, prepares outstanding dim sum in an unfrenzied atmosphere—select your dim sum from a menu, and it’s prepared to order.

Tommy’s Mexican Restaurant, at No. 5929, is as well known for its margaritas as it is for its fine Yucatecan cuisine. The drinks are prepared by hand—no mixes—with high-quality tequilas and fresh ingredients. The food goes down mighty easy after one or two of ’em. Nearly next door,

Khan Toke Thai House is an opulent oasis of calm that is frequently touted as one of the most beautiful Thai restaurants in the city. Slip off your shoes, settle yourself on a cushion, tuck your feet under the table, and prepare to be transported. Take a peek in back to see their beautiful garden.

The serenely handsome San Francisco Columbarium is one of the few places within the city limits where one can commune with the dearly departed.

Backstory: San Francisco’s Deepest Sleep

While you’re exploring Clement Street in the Inner Richmond District, take a quick detour to check out the San Francisco Columbarium. It’s one of those places that locals hear about but never get around to visiting, and it’s just a couple of blocks from where this tour begins.

A columbarium is a building divided into compartments in which the ashes of the dead are kept. (You could say that columbaria are old folks’ homes for folks who are a wee bit beyond old.) The word derives from the Latin columba, meaning “dove,” and is a reference to tightly arranged coops built for domesticated doves and pigeons. The San Francisco Columbarium, built in 1898, is a particularly elegant example. It’s a gorgeous piece of historic architecture, with beautiful tiling and graceful glass enclosures rising three stories above the main floor.

San Francisco is a city nearly devoid of cemeteries. Only two graveyards remain in the city: one in the Presidio and another behind Mission Dolores. Large cemeteries formerly covered much of the Inner Richmond, and the Columbarium was within the 167-acre Odd Fellows Cemetery. During the early 20th century, all of these graveyards were moved south of San Francisco to the city of Colma, where the dead vastly outnumber the living (and the official motto is “It’s Great to Be Alive in Colma”). Thus, for the most part, San Francisco keeps the dearly departed at arm’s length. The Columbarium was spared, even though cremation was for several decades outlawed in the city. The facility was restored in the late 1970s.

The Columbarium is the only place within the city limits where a civilian can hope to rest in peace. Vaults are privately owned, and their value rises and falls (mostly rises) with more energy than San Francisco’s housing market. Annually, the Columbarium throws a cocktail party for people who own but do not yet occupy vaults. It’s a way for future neighbors to get to know each other before they meet their makers!

The Columbarium is just a few blocks from Clement and Arguello Streets. On Arguello, walk two blocks south, past Geary Boulevard, and turn left onto Anza Street. Turn left onto Lorain Court, a cul-de-sac that ends at the entrance to the Columbarium. Open to the public, it’s a peaceful place to walk amid the touching memorials to loved ones on display, complete with photos, treasured mementos, and the occasional bottle of booze. Many local celebrities, Harvey Milk among them, are honored here.

Crossing Geary at 25th, head to the other side and peer in the window of

Paul’s Hat Works, where master milliners have been blocking and crafting custom hats since 1918. If they’re open (hours are infrequent), pop in and you’ll be greeted by the latest apprentices to have taken over the business, which has been passed down since Napoleon “Paul” Marquez first set up shop. The latest incarnation is owned by two young women who have breathed fresh life into the craft while still retaining all the old techniques. One of their handmade beaver-felt fedoras even graced the head of Barack Obama during his second presidential term (he received it as a gift from a supporter while in town for a fund-raiser).

Tiki bars are all the rage around the Bay Area these days. They’re throwbacks to the 1930s, when mainlanders first discovered ukulele music and longed for the easy life under South Seas palm trees.

Trad’r Sam, at No. 6150, is no throwback. It’s been operating out here in the fog since before World War II. It has all the atmosphere of Thurston and Lovey Howell’s hut, and the fruity drinks prepared by hardworking barkeeps resemble Carmen Miranda’s hats. Show up in the afternoon if you want to avoid the just-turned-21 crowd.

If you need to repent for any rum-based sins, our walk ends under the protective shadow of the

Holy Virgin Cathedral, the largest Russian Orthodox Church outside of Russia. Also known as the Joy of All Who Sorrow, the church is a hand-painted jewel box of chandeliers and stained glass. If the doors are open, you are welcome to step in and delight in the stunning interior. Services take place twice daily, and most women don head scarves. Parishioners largely stand for services, hence the lack of abundant pews.

Points of Interest

Arsicault Bakery 397 Arguello Blvd.; 415-450-9460, tinyurl.com/arsicaultsf

The Plough and the Stars 116 Clement St.; 415-751-1122, theploughandstars.com

Burma Super Star 309 Clement St.; 415-387-2147, burmasuperstar.com

Toy Boat Dessert Cafe 401 Clement St.; 415-751-7505, facebook.com/boatdessertcafe

Kamei Housewares and Restaurant Supplies 525–547 Clement St.; 415-666-3699, facebook.com/kameisf

Green Apple Books and Music 506 Clement St.; 415-387-2272, greenapplebooks.com

New May Wah Supermarket 719 Clement St.; 415-221-9826 (no website)

Internet Archive 300 Funston Ave.; 415-561-6767, archive.org

Kabuto Sushi 5121 Geary Blvd.; 415-752-5652, kabuto-restaurant-san-francisco.sites.tablehero.com

Russian Renaissance Restaurant 5241 Geary Blvd.; 415-752-8558, rr.restaurant

Joe’s Ice Cream 5420 Geary Blvd.; 415-751-1950, joesicecream.com

Ton Kiang 5821 Geary Blvd.; 415-752-4440, tonkiangsf.com

Tommy’s Mexican Restaurant 5929 Geary Blvd.; 415-387-4747, tommystequila.com

Khan Toke Thai House 5937 Geary Blvd.; 415-668-6654, khantokethaihouse.com

Paul’s Hat Works 6128 Geary Blvd.; 415-221-5332, hatworksbypaul.com

Trad’r Sam 6150 Geary Blvd.; 415-221-0773 (no website)

Holy Virgin Cathedral 6210 Geary Blvd.; 415-221-3255, sfsobor.com