Spring
Spring may not be the first season that comes to mind for pie making: fruit is in limited supply, citrus is waning, and herbs are just getting started. Yet we love this season for its feeling of renewal and light and its signs of the coming warmth. We aim to make our spring pies in that spirit.
This is the time of year that we get creative and often develop new custards or cream pies for the shop, somewhat because of the lack of ingredients to work with, but mostly to satisfy our creative desire for experimentation and lightening things up. When rhubarb arrives, we rejoice—finally something to work with other than eggs and cream. Next come strawberries, followed by sour cherries (a sure sign that summer is very close), and our hands stay busy chopping, hulling, and pitting into the night. When we receive first word from our forager Evan Strusinski, we look forward to what will be on the list of unique ingredients to work with for the season. Wild ginger is a favorite, and we love pairing it with strawberries and, later in the summer, stone fruits.
We are lucky to have talented rooftop farmer Frieda Lim as our neighbor. When we built our window boxes, Frieda came to the rescue with planting guidance and expertise, so we grow a large amount of herbs for our custard and fruit pies right outside our window.
Rhubarb Pie
As hard as it is for us to believe, “What’s rhubarb?” is an often-asked question in the pie shop. Dubbed the “pie plant,” rhubarb has a rich history in pie making and holds a special place in our hearts. We are always excited to introduce it to new customers at the pie shop. During our years growing up in South Dakota eating rhubarb was a highlight of the summer and the main ingredient in one of our favorite pies made by Grandma Liz. She did not combine her rhubarb with any berries—it was straight rhubarb and nothing else. Our recipe is based on her purist approach.
Makes one 9-inch pie
Serves 8 to 10
All-Butter Crust for a 9-inch double-crust pie (see here)
1½ to 2 pounds fresh rhubarb, cut into ½-inch pieces (5 to 6 cups) (frozen, thawed, and drained if desired)
¾ cup packed light brown sugar
½ cup granulated sugar
¼ teaspoon ground allspice
¼ teaspoon ground cardamom
¼ teaspoon ground ginger
½ teaspoon kosher salt
3 to 4 tablespoons ground arrowroot
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 large egg
Dash Angostura bitters
Egg wash (1 large egg whisked with 1 teaspoon water and a pinch of salt)
Demerara sugar, for finishing
If you have the time, wash, chop, and freeze your rhubarb at least one day before baking to help release excess moisture. Thaw in a strainer before using, but don’t squeeze it or you might dry it out too much.
Have ready and refrigerated one pastry-lined 9-inch pie pan and pastry rounds or lattice to top (see here and here).
Combine the rhubarb, brown and granulated sugars, allspice, cardamom, ginger, salt, and arrowroot in a large bowl and mix thoroughly. Stir in the lemon juice, egg, and bitters. Pour the filling into the refrigerated pie shell, arrange the lattice or pastry round on top, and crimp as desired (see here and here).
Chill the pie in the refrigerator for 10 to 15 minutes to set the pastry. Meanwhile, position the oven racks in the bottom and center positions, place a rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack, and preheat the oven to 425°F.
Brush the pastry with the egg wash to coat; if your pie has a lattice top, be careful not to drag the filling onto the pastry (it will burn). Sprinkle the pastry with the desired amount of demerara sugar.
Place the pie on the rimmed baking sheet on the lowest rack of the oven. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the pastry is set and beginning to brown. Lower the oven temperature to 375°F, move the pie to the center oven rack, and continue to bake until the pastry is a deep golden brown and the juices are bubbling throughout, 30 to 35 minutes longer.
Allow to cool completely on a wire rack, 2 to 3 hours. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature.
The pie will keep in the refrigerator for 3 days or at room temperature for 2 days.