Salting melon is a matter of taste, but the salt actually brings out the sweetness of a good ripe melon. That simple combination of salt and melon was our inspiration for this light, summery pie paired with a saltine cracker crust. The approach is a relatively traditional chiffon, using gelatin and egg yolk and whipped egg whites for a firm, smooth filling. You will need an electric juicer to juice the melon. Try different heirloom melon varieties with this if you can find them.
Makes one 9-inch pie
Serves 8 to 10
1½ envelopes (4 teaspoons) unflavored gelatin
2 cups fresh melon juice (from about ½ large cantaloupe)
3 large egg yolks
⅓ cup granulated sugar
⅛ teaspoon ground anise
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
10 lemon balm leaves, torn
2 large egg whites
2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar
½ cup heavy cream
If you don’t have lemon balm, you can use regular fresh mint. Don’t be afraid to combine this awesome saltine crust with other pies in this book. Prebaking the crust is optional if you don’t want to turn the oven on.
In a large bowl, sprinkle the gelatin evenly over ¼ cup of the melon juice. In a medium metal bowl, whisk together the remaining 1¾ cups melon juice, egg yolks, granulated sugar, anise, salt, lime juice, and lemon balm leaves. Place the bowl over a larger pot of simmering water, being sure the bowl does not touch the water, and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture is thickened to a custard-like consistency, about 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the softened gelatin; stir until dissolved. Refrigerate, stirring often, until the mixture thickens to a soft set, 25 to 30 minutes.
Beat the egg whites until fluffy, add the confectioners’ sugar, and continue to beat until stiff peaks form. Set aside. In a separate bowl, beat the heavy cream until stiff but not grainy. Gently fold the melon mixture into the beaten egg white in four additions. Follow in the same fashion by adding the melon–egg white mixture to the whipped cream, folding until no clumps of cream or egg white remain, but taking care not to overmix or deflate the filling. Spoon the mixture into the prepared shell and refrigerate until firm, at least 3 hours. Serve cold; remove from the refrigerator 20 minutes before slicing to make serving easier.
The pie will keep refrigerated for 2 days.
Gooseberries are furry berries that grow on dangerously spiky branches. They are somewhat hard to come by and have a unique flavor that is only enhanced when baked. Making them into a galette is the perfect treatment, especially if you can get your hands on only a pint or two.
Makes one 9-inch galette
Serves 6 to 8
3 cups gooseberries, stems removed
1 cup granulated sugar
3 tablespoons ground arrowroot
Pinch finely grated lemon zest
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
¼ teaspoon allspice
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
Egg wash (1 large egg whisked with 1 teaspoon water and a pinch of salt), optional
Demerara sugar, for finishing
If you happen to have a lot of gooseberries on hand, you can double this recipe to make enough filling for a double-crusted pie. But adjust sugar according to taste and tartness of the berries.
Have ready and refrigerated one pastry round about 13 inches in diameter. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F.
Toss the gooseberries, granulated sugar, arrowroot, lemon zest and juice, allspice, and salt together in a large bowl. To assemble the galette, place the pastry round on the prepared baking sheet. Pour the filling in the middle of the pastry round and spread out to about 3 inches from the edge. Fold in the edges, pinching together tightly in a circle, but leave an opening in the center. Chill in the freezer for at least 15 minutes before baking. (See here for more tips on shaping a galette.)
Brush the exposed crust with egg wash if desired, and sprinkle all over with demerara sugar. Bake on the middle rack of the oven until the crust is golden brown and the filling is bubbling throughout, 35 to 40 minutes.
Allow to cool on a wire rack for at least 30 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.
The galette will keep refrigerated for 3 days or at room temperature for 2 days.