Ubud Region
Though Ubud will always claim the limelight in this region, there are some minor players well worthy of attention. A day spent visiting the temples of Tampaksiring, pausing en route to indulge in a photographic frenzy at the famed Ceking rice terraces, is time well spent, and the same can be said for a visit to the many traditional artisans’ villages south of Ubud, which are deservedly famous for the quality of their craftmanship. Basing yourself in Ubud, which is replete with alluring sleeping and eating options, is a no-brainer, but so too is hopping on a motorcycle or organising a car and driver to see the rest that this part of Bali has to offer. There may be few top-drawer sights, but there are many scenic side roads that amply reward exploration.
Ubud
%0361 / Pop 10,870
Ubud is one of those places where a holiday of a few days can easily turn into a stay of weeks, months or even years. The size of the town’s expat community attests to this, and so do the many novels and films that have been set here, creative responses to the seductive nature of this most cultured of all Balinese towns. This is a place where traditional Balinese culture imbues every waking moment, where colourful offerings adorn the streets and where the hypnotic strains of gamelan are an ever-present soundtrack to everyday life. It’s also somewhere that is relentlessly on trend – a showcase of sustainable design, mindfulness, culinary inventiveness and the very best that global tourism has to offer. Come here for relaxation, for rejuvenation and to have what may well be the most magical holiday of your life.
1Sights
Most sights in Ubud are easily reached on foot, all the better for exploring given the inherent interests and pleasures all around.
oAgung Rai Museum of ArtGALLERY
(map Google map; ARMA; %0361-976659; www.armabali.com/museum; Jl Raya Pengosekan; adult/child under 10yr 100,000Rp/free; 
h9am-6pm)
If you only visit one museum in Ubud, make it this one. Founder Agung Rai built his fortune selling Balinese artwork to foreigners in the 1970s, and during his time as a dealer he also built one of Indonesia’s most impressive private collections of art. This cultural compound opened in 1996 and displays his collection in two purpose-built gallery buildings – highlights include the wonderful 19th-century Portrait of a Javanese Nobleman and his Wife by Javanese artist Raden Saleh (1807–1880).
oNeka Art MuseumGALLERY
(map Google map; %0361-975074; www.museumneka.com; Jl Raya Sanggingan; adult/child under 12yr 75,000Rp/free; h9am-5pm)
Offering an excellent introduction to Balinese art, this impressive museum displays its top-notch collection of works in a series of pavilions and halls. Don’t miss the multi-room Balinese Painting Hall, which showcases wayang (puppet) style as well as the European-influenced Ubud and Batuan styles introduced in the 1920s and 1930s. Also notable is the Lempad Pavilion, with works by the master I Gusti Nyoman Lempad (1862–1978), and the East-West Art Annexe, where works by Affandi (1907–1990) and Widayat (1919–2002) impress.
Pura Taman SaraswatiHINDU TEMPLE
(map Google map; Jl Raya Ubud) 
F
Museum Puri LukisanMUSEUM
(map Google map; Museum of Fine Arts; %0361-975136; www.museumpurilukisan.com; off Jl Raya Ubud; adult/child under 11yr 85,000Rp/free; h9am-5pm)
It was in Ubud that the modern Balinese art movement started, when artists first began to abandon purely religious themes and court subjects for scenes of everyday life. This museum set in a lovely formal garden has four buildings displaying works from all schools and periods of Balinese art, with a focus on modern masters including I Gusti Nyoman Lempad (1862–1978), Ida Bagus Made (1915–1999) and I Gusti Made Kwandji (1936–2013). All works are labelled in English.
Ubud PalacePALACE
(map Google map; cnr Jl Raya Ubud & Jl Suweta; h9am-7pm) F
This palace and its temple, Puri Saren Agung (map Google map), share a compound in the heart of Ubud. Most of its structures were built after the 1917 earthquake and the local royal family still lives here. You can wander around most of the compound and explore the many traditional buildings. Though closed for renovation when we last visited, the main pavilion often hosts evening dance performances.
Pura Gunung LebahHINDU TEMPLE
(map Google map; off Jl Raya Campuan)
This old temple, which sits on a jutting rock at the confluence of two tributaries of Sungai Cerik (campuan means ‘two rivers’), has recently benefited from a huge building campaign. The setting is magical; listen to the rushing waters while admiring the impressive meru (multi-tiered shrine) and a wealth of elaborate carvings.
Pura Penataran SasihHINDU TEMPLE
(Jl Raya Tampaksiring, Pejeng; 20,000Rp; h7am-5pm)
This was once the state temple of the Pejeng kingdom. In the inner courtyard, high up in a pavilion and difficult to see, is the huge bronze drum known as the Fallen Moon of Pejeng. The hourglass-shaped drum is 186cm long, the largest single-piece cast drum in the world. Estimates of its age vary from 1000 to 2000 years. The temple is in Pejeng, 5km east of central Ubud.
DON’T MISS
UBUD MONKEY FOREST
One of Ubud’s most famous sights (or should that be infamous) is the monkey forest (Mandala Wisata Wanara Wana; map; %0361-971304; www.monkeyforestubud.com; Monkey Forest Rd; adult/child 3-12 years 50,000/40,000Rp; h8.30am-5.30pm). It’s a cool and dense swath of jungle, which houses three holy temples. The sanctuary is inhabited by a band of over 600 grey-haired and greedy long-tailed Balinese macaques who are nothing like the innocent-looking doe-eyed monkeys on the brochures – they can bite, so be careful around them. Note that the temples are only open to worshippers.
Enter the monkey forest through one of three gates: the main one is at the southern end of Monkey Forest Rd. Useful brochures about the forest, macaques and temples are available at the ticket office. Free shuttles to get here and back drive a loop around central Ubud every 15 minutes, stopping on JI Raya Ubud, JI Hanoman and on Money Forest Rd – look for the lime-green buses.
Note that the monkeys keep a keen eye on passing tourists in hope of handouts (or an opportunity to help themselves). Irritating recorded warnings (and signs) list all the ways monkeys can cause trouble: avoid eye contact and showing your teeth, including smiling, which is deemed a sign of aggression. Also, don’t try to take bananas from the monkeys or feed them.
2Activities
Yoga and meditation are popular activities here, as are spa sessions. Walks through local rice fields are popular, and easily achieved without guides. Cycling is possible, but local traffic conditions mean that it’s not particularly enjoyable.
CCourses
Ubud is the perfect place to develop your artistic or language skills, or learn about Balinese culture and cuisine. The range of courses offered could keep you busy for a year. With most classes you must book in advance.
oCasa Luna Cooking SchoolCOOKING
(map Google map; %0361-973282; www.casalunabali.com/casa-luna-cooking-school; Honeymoon Guesthouse, Jl Bisma; classes from 400,000Rp)
A different cooking class or food tour is offered every day of the week at this well-regarded cooking school associated with the Casa Luna (map Google map; %0361-977409; www.casalunabali.com; Jl Raya Ubud; mains 50,000-125,000Rp; h8am-11pm; 
p
W) restaurant. Half-day courses cover a range of dishes; some include a market visit. A three-hour tour to the famous Gianyar night market is offered on Thursdays and Fridays, and a ‘Food as Medicine’ class on Saturdays.
oARMACULTURAL TOUR
(map Google map; %0361-976659; www.armabali.com/museum/cultural-workshops; Jl Raya Pengosekan; classes from US$25; h9am-6pm)
A cultural powerhouse offering classes in painting, woodcarving, gamelan and batik. Other courses include Balinese dance, Hinduism and architecture.
SPAS & YOGA
Ubud brims with salons and spas where you can heal, pamper, rejuvenate or otherwise focus on your personal needs, physical and mental. Visiting a spa is at the top of many a traveller’s itinerary and the business of spas, yoga and other treatments grows each year. Expect the latest trends from any of many practitioners and prepare to try some new therapies. You may also wish to seek out a balian (traditional healer).
Many spas also offer courses in therapies, treatments and activities such as yoga.
Yoga Barn (map Google map; %0361-971236; www.theyogabarn.com; off Jl Raya Pengosekan; classes from 130,000Rp; h6am-9pm) The chakra for the yoga revolution in Ubud, the life force that is the Yoga Barn sits in its own lotus position amid trees near a river valley. The name exactly describes what you’ll find: a huge space offering a similarly large range of classes in various yoga practices. There’s also an on-site Ayurvedic spa and a garden cafe.
Mandapa Spa (%0361-4792777; www.ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/indonesia/mandapa/spa; Mandapa Resort, Kedewatan; massages 1,600-000-2,100,000Rp, facials 1,700,000-2,500,000Rp; h9am-9pm) The sybaritic riverside spa and wellness centre at the Mandapa resort offers massage and beauty treatments, a yoga pavilion, a meditation temple, a vitality pool, a 24-hour fitness centre and saunas.
Radiantly Alive (map Google map; %0361-978055; www.radiantlyalive.com; Jl Jembawan 3; per class/3 classes/week 130,000/330,000/800,000Rp; h7.30am-6pm) This school will appeal to those looking for an intimate space, and offers a mix of drop-in and long-term yoga classes in a number of disciplines.
Taksu Spa (map Google map; %0361-479 2525; www.taksuspa.com; Jl Goutama; massage from 450,000Rp; h9am-10pm) One of Ubud’s most popular spas, Taksu has a long and rather lavish menu of massages and beauty treatments, as well as a strong focus on yoga. There are private rooms for couples massages and a healthy garden cafe.
TTours
Specialised tours in Ubud include thematic walks and cultural adventures. Spending a few hours exploring the area with a local expert is a highlight for many.
Dhyana Putri AdventuresCULTURAL
(www.balispirit.com/tours/bali_tour_dhyana.html; half-/full-day tours US$120/185)
Bicultural and trilingual, author and Balinese dance expert Rucina Ballinger offers custom tours, with an emphasis on Balinese performing arts and in-depth cultural experiences.
Ubud Tourist InformationCULTURAL
(map Google map; Fabulous Ubud; %0361-973285; www.fabulousubud.com; Jl Raya Ubud; tours 185,000-300,000Rp; h8am-8pm)
Owned and operated by members of Ubud’s royal family, this travel and events agency runs interesting and affordable half- and full-day trips to a huge range of places, including Besakih and Kintamani.
Banyan Tree Cycling ToursCYCLING
(%0813 3879 8516; www.banyantreebiketours.com; tours adult/child from US$55/35)
Enjoy day-long tours of remote villages in the hills north of Ubud. The tours are very popular, and emphasise interaction with villagers. Hiking and rafting trips are also available.
Bali Bird WalksBIRDWATCHING
(%0361-975009; www.balibirdwalk.com; tour incl lunch US$37; h9am-12.30pm Tue, Fri, Sat & Sun)
zFestivals & Events
The Ubud area is one of the best places to see the many religious and cultural events celebrated in Bali each year. The Fabulous Ubud Tourist Information Centre is unmatched for its comprehensive information on local events.
oUbud Writers & Readers FestivalLITERATURE
(www.ubudwritersfestival.com; 1-day pass 1,200,000Rp; hlate Oct/early Nov)
Southeast Asia’s major literary event brings together writers and readers from around the world in a five-day celebration of writing – especially writing that touches on Bali.
oBali Spirit FestivalDANCE, MUSIC
(www.balispiritfestival.com; hlate Mar/early Apr)
A popular yoga, dance and music festival from the people behind the Yoga Barn, a local yoga hub. There are hundreds of workshops and concerts, plus a market and more.
4Sleeping
Ubud has a wonderful array of places to stay, including fabled resorts, boutique hotels and charming, simple homestays. Choices can be bewildering, so give some thought as to where you want to stay, especially if you are renting private accommodation via the web.
In general, Ubud offers good value for money at any price level.
oThree Win HomestayHOMESTAY$
(map Google map; %0819 9945 3319, 0812 3819 7835; www.threewinhomestay.com; Anila Ln, off JI Hanoman; r 350,000-450,000Rp; 
aW)
Putu, her husband Sampo and her father Nyoman are understandably proud of the five modern guest rooms in their family compound off JI Hanoman. These have tiled floors, comfortable beds and sparkling bathrooms; request one upstairs, as these have spacious balconies overlooking the rooftops.
Bali Asli LodgeHOMESTAY$
(map Google map; %0361-970537; www.baliaslilodge.com; Jl Suweta; r 250,000-300,000Rp; W)
Escape the central Ubud hubbub here. Made and Ketut are your friendly hosts, and their five rooms are in traditional Balinese stone-and-brick houses set in verdant gardens; interiors are clean and comfy. There are terraces where you can let the hours pass, and Made will cook meals on request. Town is a 15-minute walk away. Fabulous value.
Pande HouseHOMESTAY$
(map Google map; %0361-970421; www.pandehomestayubud.wordpress.com; Jl Sugriwa 59; r with fan/air-con from 250,000/400,000Rp; W)
Yet another one of Ubud’s delightful family-compound homestays, old-fashioned Pande is but one of many clustered on this residential street. Each room has a terrace; the deluxe version has air-con. The frills are few and far between, but the welcome is warm.
Batik Sekar Bali Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
(map Google map; %0361-975351; Jl Sugriwa 32; hr 250,000-310,000Rp; aW)
In a primo location, this family homestay offers the timeless Ubud experience. Come and go past Made, Putu and their family as they make offerings and go about daily tasks. The four rooms have terraces and cold-water bathrooms.
oSwasti Eco CottagesGUESTHOUSE$$
(map Google map; %0361-974079; www.baliswasti.com; Jl Nyuh Bulan; r with fan/air-con from 770,000/880,000Rp; a
iW
s) 
S
A five-minute walk from the south entrance to the Monkey Forest, this compound has large grounds that feature an organic garden (produce is used in the cafe), a pool, spa and yoga shala. Some rooms are in simple two-storey blocks; others are in traditionally styled houses. Yoga and meditation classes are available.
Alam IndahHOTEL$$
(map Google map; %0361-974629; www.alamindahbali.com; Jl Nyuh Bulan; r 1,000,000-1,600,000Rp; aWs)
Just south of the Monkey Forest, this spacious and tranquil resort has 16 rooms that are beautifully finished in natural materials to traditional designs. The Wos Valley views are entrancing, especially from the multilevel pool area. There’s a free shuttle into central Ubud.
Artotel Haniman UbudHOTEL$$
(map Google map; %0361-9083470; www.artotelindonesia.com/haniman-ubud; Jl Jatayu Ubud; r from 1,050,000Rp; paWs)
The latest offering from Indonesia’s hip Artotel chain, this place offers 22 good-size studios (20, 30 and 40 sq m) with amenities including a coffee machine. There’s a small pool, a spa and a complimentary shuttle into central Ubud. Breakfast is served in the Full Circle cafe at the front of the hotel – you’ll enjoy the best coffee in town here.
Ladera Villa UbudHOTEL$$
(map Google map; %0361-978127; Jl Bisma 25; r from 950,000Rp, villa from 1,400,000Rp; aWs)
Close to the central Ubud action but far enough removed to offer a tranquil retreat, this hotel offers an array of well-equipped rooms and more-luxurious villas; the villas have private pools and basic kitchens. Attentive service; excellent value.
oMandapaRESORT$$$
(%0361-4792777; www.ritzcarlton.com; Jl Kedewatan, Kedewatan; ste US$600-900, villa US$1000-5000Rp; paiWs)
Set in a spectacular river valley enclosed by rice fields, this stunning Ritz Carlton resort is the size of a small village. It’s replete with facilities – the luxe spa and Kubu restaurant are particularly impressive. Guests are offered a programme of 17 complimentary daily activities including yoga, aqua aerobics and a kids club. Suites and villas are large and gorgeous.
oKomaneka at Monkey ForestBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %361-4792518; www.komaneka.com; Monkey Forest Rd; ste 2,300,000-3,100,000Rp, villa 3,800,000-4,200,000Rp; paWs)
It calls itself a resort, but this place has a boutique feel. The Monkey Forest Rd location may seem strange, but the hotel is hidden in lush gardens overlooking a rice field behind the Komaneka Art Gallery and is remarkably tranquil. Ultra-comfortable suites and villas have an elegant decor and abundant amenities; facilities include a restaurant (mains 79,000Rp to 129,000Rp) and spa.
AmandariHOTEL$$$
(%0361-975333; www.amanresorts.com; JI Raya Kedewatan; ste US$700-2400, villa US$4200-4500; paiWs)
Luxurious Amandari does everything with the charm and grace of a classical Balinese dancer. Superb views over the green river valley – the 30m green-tiled swimming pool seems to drop right over the edge – are just some of the inducements. The 30 private pavilions (some with their own pools) are extremely comfortable and complimentary activities include yoga classes and afternoon tea.
oComo Uma UbudBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %0361-972448; www.comohotels.com; Jl Raya Sanggingan; r US$290-320, villa US$580-610; paWs)
A celebration of contemporary Balinese style, this Australian-owned property is one of the few accommodation options in Ubud that can rightfully claim a boutique tag. The 46 rooms come in a variety of sizes but all are attractive and have good amenities; bathrooms are particularly nice. Facilities include an infinity pool, pool bar, spa, yoga pavilion and excellent Italian restaurant (map; www.comohotels.com/en/umaubud/dining/uma-cucina; pizzas 100,000-180,000Rp, mains 110,000-240,000Rp; hnoon-10.30pm Mon-Sat, from 11.30am Sun; W
v
c).
oBambu IndahRESORT$$$
(%0361-977922; www.bambuindah.com; JI Banjar Baung; r US$95-495, 2-bedroom house US$645-695; paWs) S
A labour of love by expat entrepreneurs John and Cynthia Hardy, this eco-resort on a ridge near the Sungai Ayung (Ayung River) offers accommodation in 100-year-old Javanese wooden houses and new, quite extraordinary, structures made from natural materials. Some are simple, others luxurious; all are super stylish. Facilities include tiers of natural swimming pools, an organic restaurant and massage pods.
5Eating
Ubud’s cafes and restaurants are some of the best in Bali. Local and expat chefs produce a bounty of authentic Balinese dishes, plus inventive Asian and other international cuisines. Healthy menus abound. Cafes with good coffee seem as common as frangipani blossoms. Be sure to be seated by 9pm or your options will narrow rapidly. Book dinner tables in high season.
oKafeCAFE$
(map Google map; %0361-479 2078; www.kafe-bali.com; Jl Hanoman 44; sandwiches & wraps 65,000-89,000Rp, mains 39,000-97,000Rp; h7am-11pm; Wv) S
This is the type of place that Ubud does particularly well. Attractive decor, laid-back vibe, friendly staff and healthy food are the hallmarks, and together they form a tempting package. The huge organic menu has something for most tastes, with a huge array of vegan, veggie and raw options with Balinese, Indonesian, Indian and Mexican accents. Good value.
Nasi Ayam KedewatanBALINESE$
(%0361-974795; Jl Raya Kedewatan, Kedewatan; mains 25,000-35,000Rp; h8am-6pm)
Few locals making the trek up the hill through Sayan pass this Bali version of a roadhouse without stopping. The star is sate lilit: chicken is minced, combined with an array of spices including lemon grass, then moulded onto bamboo skewers and grilled. It’s served as part of the nasi ayam campur (25,000Rp) or nasi ayam pisah (35,000Rp) set meals.
Liap LiapINDONESIAN$
(map Google map; %0361-9080800; www.liapliap.com; Monkey Forest Rd; satays 35,000-65,000Rp; h10am-11pm)
The name references the sound that charcoal embers make as they heat up, paying tribute to the technique that chef Mandif Warokka uses when grilling the spicy Indonesian dishes that dominate the menu at this contemporary warung. Watch the grilling action in the front window while sipping a cocktail drawn from a long list of classics and house signatures.
oHujon LocaleINDONESIAN$$
(map Google map; %0813 3972 0306; www.hujanlocale.com; Jl Sriwedari 5; mains 120,000-200,000Rp; hnoon-10pm; Wv)
Chef Will Meyrick is the culinary genius behind Mama San in Seminyak, and his Ubud outpost is just as impressive. The menu delivers traditional Indonesian with modern, creative flair and the results are uniformly delicious. The setting within a chic colonial-style two-storey bungalow is casually stylish and cleverly flexible – enjoy cocktails and snacks in the downstairs lounge; lunch and dinner upstairs.
oDumboVEGETARIAN$$
(map Google map; %0812 3838 9993; www.dumbobali.com; JI Raya Sanggingan; pizza 80,000-95,000Rp, small plates 55,000-80,000Rp, large plates 85,000-180,000Rp; h9am-11pm; pW)
Music, mixology and Italian food are a particularly good mix, so you’d need to be a dumbo not to eat here, especially as pizzas cooked in a wood-fired oven are also on offer (after 4pm only). Trained bar staff and baristas ensure that the cocktails and coffee are as good as the food, and the DJ’s playlist is a winner.
oFull CircleCAFE$$
(map Google map; %0361-982638; www.fullcirclebyexpatroasters.com; JI Jatayu; breakfast dishes 35,000-100,000Rp, mains 65,000-130,000Rp; h7am-11pm; aWv)
Australian-style cafe society is represented by a few popular businesses here in Ubud, and this is its most recent – and sleek – incarnation. Though in a slightly out-of-the-way location, it’s worth making the trek to enjoy Ubud’s best coffee (Expat Roasters beans), all-day brekkies featuring sourdough from Starter Lab bakery and cafe favourites including smashed avocado, sushi bowls and burgers. Love it.
ClearFUSION$$
(map Google map; %0878 6219 7585, 0361-889 4437; www.clearcafebali.com; Jl Hanoman 8; meals US$4-15; h8am-10pm; Wv)
Known for its theatrical decor and crowd-pleasing menu, Clear is one of Ubud’s most popular eateries. The relentlessly healthy dishes feature local produce and have artful presentation; menu influences range from Japan (sushi) to Mexico (tacos, quesadillas), with loads of veggie and vegan options. No alcohol, but the huge choice of fruit smoothies, tonic, juices and milkshakes compensates. Cash only.
oWatercressCAFE$$
(map Google map; %0361-976127; www.watercressubud.com; Monkey Forest Rd; breakfast dishes 45,000-90,000Rp, sandwiches 65,000-75,000Rp, mains 90,000-290,000Rp; h7.30am-11pm; W)
A young and fashionable crowd flocks to this Aussie-style contemporary cafe to nosh on all-day breakfasts, burgers, sourdough sandwiches, homemade cakes, gourmet salads and more. Drink good coffee during the day and cocktails at night (happy hour daily 5pm to 7pm, live music Fridays).
KebunMEDITERRANEAN$$
(map Google map; %0361-972490; www.kebunbistro.com; Jl Hanoman 44; mains 65,000-155,000Rp; h11am-11pm Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun; W)
Paris meets Ubud at this charming bistro and it’s a good match. Your choice from the substantial cocktail and wine lists can be paired with French- and Italian-accented dishes large and small. Dine or sip a drink in the bar area, or claim a table on the greenery-screened terrace.
oPicaSOUTH AMERICAN$$$
(map Google map; %0361-971660; www.facebook.com/PicaSouthAmericanKitchen; Jl Dewi Sita; mains 170,000-330,000Rp; h6-10pm Tue-Sun; W)
Much-acclaimed, the contemporary South American cuisine served at this small restaurant is one of Ubud’s culinary highlights. From the open kitchen, dishes making creative use of meat and fish issue forth – be sure to ask about daily specials. Ordering the delectable tre leche dessert should be mandatory. Bookings advisable.
KubuMEDITERRANEAN$$$
(%0361-4792777; www.ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/indonesia/mandapa/dining; Mandapa Resort, Jl Kedewatan, Kedewatan; mains 280,000-500,000Rp, degustation menus 750,000-1,150,000Rp; h6.30-11pm)
Resembling a posh version of the Balinese bamboo hut that it is named for, Mandapa’s premier restaurant offers a memorable and romantic dining experience. Reserve a table in the main dining area or opt for a private cabana overlooking the Sungai Ayung. Chef Maurizio Bombini’s Mediterranean-European cuisine is as excellent as the surrounds and service. Book well in advance.
MozaicFUSION$$$
(map Google map; %0361-975768; www.mozaic-bali.com; Jl Raya Sanggingan; lunch tasting menu 500,000-700,000Rp, dinner tasting menu 700,000-1,600,000Rp; h6-9.45pm Mon-Wed, noon-2pm & 6-9.45pm Thu-Sun; Wv)
Chef Chris Salans oversees this much-lauded top-end restaurant. Fine French fusion cuisine features on a constantly changing seasonal menu that takes its influences from tropical Asia. Dine in an elegant garden twinkling with romantic lights or an ornate pavilion. Tasting menus are obligatory, unless you wish to limit yourself to tapas in the lounge (from 5pm). Lunch in high season only.
oRoom4DessertDESSERTS$$$
(map Google map; R4D; %0821 4429 3452; www.room4dessert.asia; Jl Raya Sanggingan; tasting dessert & cocktail menu 1,000,000Rp; h5-11pm Tue-Sun)
Celebrity chef Will Goldfarb, who hails from the States and gained fame via Netflix’s Chef’s Table, runs what could be a nightclub but is in fact a dessert bar where patrons who book far enough in advance (you’ll need to do so at least a month before your visit) can enjoy a decadent nine-course tasting menu matched with cocktails/mocktails/wine.
6Drinking & Nightlife
No one comes to Ubud for wild nightlife, although that may slowly be changing. A few bars get lively around sunset and later in the night; still, the venues don’t aspire to the extremes of boozy debauchery and clubbing found in Kuta and Seminyak. Most bars close early in Ubud, often by 11pm.
The quality of the coffee served in Ubud’s growing number of cafes is good, with many places roasting their own beans and employing expert baristas.
Bar LunaLOUNGE
(map Google map; %0361-977409; www.facebook.com/barlunaubud; Jl Raya Ubud; h3-11pm; W)
oSweet Orange WarungCAFE
(map Google map; %0813 3877 8689; www.sweetorangewarung.com; JI Subak Juwak; 9am-8.30pm)
An idyllic location in the midst of a rice field a short walk from the centre of town makes this a wonderful spot for a drink or simple meal. You’ll be serenaded by water running through the farming channels, birds singing and local children playing. Drinks include French-press coffee, beer and fresh juice.
Laughing BuddhaLOUNGE
(map Google map; %0361-970928; www.facebook.com/laughingbuddhabali; Monkey Forest Rd; h11am-1am; W)
Head to this popular bar between 8pm and 11pm, when musicians (rock, blues, latin, acoustic and more) entertain the crowd. The kitchen serves Asian bites.
oBridgesLOUNGE
(map Google map; %0361-970095; www.bridgesbali.com; Jl Raya Campuan, Bridges Bali; h4am-11.30pm daily, happy hour 4-6.30pm Sat-Thu)
The namesake bridges are right outside the Divine Wine & Cocktail Bar on the lower level of this bar/restaurant complex, which has sweeping views of the river gorge. You’ll hear the rush of the water far below while you indulge in a top-end cocktail. There are gourmet bites for sharing and a long wine list for exploring.
No MàsBAR
(map Google map; %0361-9080800; www.nomasubud.com; Monkey Forest Rd; h5pm-1am)
DJs and Latin bands crank the volume up every night at this small bar on one of the town’s main strips, and there are occasional theme nights too. It can get hot when the dancing starts, but the pool bar in the rear garden provides a welcome relief.
oNight RoosterCOCKTAIL BAR
(map Google map; %0361-977733; www.locavore.co.id/nightrooster; Jl Dewi Sita 10B; h4pm-midnight Mon-Sat)
From the same folks at Locavore (map Google map; www.restaurantlocavore.com; Jl Dewi Sita; 5-course menu 675,000-775,000Rp, 7-course menu 775,000-875,000Rp; h6.30-9pm Mon, noon-2pm & 6.30-9pm Tue-Sat; paW), this neighbouring, second-storey cocktail bar boasts a talented mixologist and some fascinating flavour combos. Inventive cocktails include things such as jackfruit-infused dry gin, homemade bitters and flaming cassia bark. The selection of appetisers and cheese and charcuterie platters make for satisfying pairings.
Seniman SpiritsBAR
(map Google map; Bar Seniman; www.senimancoffee.com; Jl Sriwedari; h6pm-midnight)
The highly caffeinated masterminds behind the Seniman coffee brand recently opened this bar next to their coffee studio, and it has become one of Ubud’s most fashionable drinking dens. Unsurprisingly, espresso martinis are the cocktail of choice.
3Entertainment
Few travel experiences are more magical than watching Balinese dance, especially in Ubud. It’s the perfect base for nightly cultural entertainment and for events in surrounding villages.
In Ubud you can see Kecak, Legong and Barong dances, Mahabharata and Ramayana ballets, wayang kulit (shadow-puppet plays) and gamelan (traditional Javanese and Balinese orchestras). There are eight or more performances each night.
oPura Dalem UbudDANCE
(map Google map; Jl Raya Ubud; adult/child under 10yr 80,000/40,000Rp; hMon-Sat)
This open-air venue in a temple compound has a flame-lit carved-stone backdrop and is an evocative place to see a dance performance. Different companies perform Legong (7.30pm Tuesday and Saturday), Jegog (7.30pm Wednesday), Barong (7pm Thursday) and the Kecak fire dance (7.30pm Monday and Friday).
oPura Taman SaraswatiDANCE
(map Google map; Ubud Water Palace; Jl Raya Ubud; 80,000Rp; h7.30pm)
The beauty of the setting may distract you from the dancers, although at night you can’t see the lily pads and lotus flowers that are such an attraction by day. Janger dance is performed on Sundays and Mondays, the Ramayana ballet on Wednesdays and Legong on Saturdays. On Tuesdays and Thursdays, women play the gamelan and children dance.
oParadisoCINEMA
(map Google map; %0361-976546; www.paradisoubud.com; Jl Gautama Selatan; incl food or drinks 50,000Rp; hfilms from 5pm)
Sharing a building with the vegan Earth Cafe & Market (map Google map; %0361-976546; www.earthcafebali.com; mains 79,000-98,000Rp; h7am-10pm; Wv) S, this surprisingly plush 150-seat cinema screens two films daily. The price of admission is redeemable against items from the cafe menu – so a great deal. Mondays are half-price days; on Tuesdays and Thursdays a community choir sings here. Check the website for a schedule.
DON’T MISS
BALINESE DANCE
Dances performed for visitors are usually adapted and abbreviated to some extent to make them more enjoyable, but usually have appreciative locals in the audience (or peering around the screen!). It’s also common to combine the features of more than one traditional dance in a single performance.
Fabulous Ubud Tourist Information Centre can supply a performance schedule and also sells tickets (usually between 75,000Rp and 100,000Rp). For performances outside Ubud, transport is often included in the price. Tickets are also sold at many hotels, at the venues and by street vendors – all charge the same price.
Kecak
Probably the best-known dance for its spellbinding, hair-raising atmosphere, the Kecak features a ‘choir’ of men and boys who sit in concentric circles and slip into a trance as they chant and sing ‘chak-a-chak-a-chak’, imitating a troupe of monkeys. Sometimes called the ‘vocal gamelan’, this is the only music to accompany the dance re-enactment from the Hindu epic Ramayana, the familiar love story about Prince Rama and his Princess Sita.
Barong & Rangda
The Barong is a good but mischievous and fun-loving shaggy dog-lion, with huge eyes and a mouth that clacks away to much dramatic effect. Because this character is the good protector of a village, the actors playing the Barong (who are utterly lost under layers of fur-clad costume) will emote a variety of winsome antics.
Meanwhile, the widow-witch Rangda is bad through and through. The Queen of Black Magic, the character’s monstrous persona can include flames shooting out her ears, a tongue dripping fire, a mane of wild hair and large breasts.
The story features a duel between the Rangda and the Barong, whose supporters draw their kris (traditional daggers) and rush in to help. The long-tongued, sharp-fanged Rangda throws them into a trance, making them stab themselves. It’s quite a spectacle. Thankfully, the Barong casts a spell that neutralises the power of the kris so it cannot harm them.
Legong
Characterised by flashing eyes and quivering hands, this most graceful of Balinese dances is performed by young girls. Their talent is so revered that in old age, a classic dancer will be remembered as a ‘great Legong’.
Peliatan’s famous dance troupe, Gunung Sari, often seen in Ubud, is particularly noted for its Legong Keraton (Legong of the Palace). The very stylised and symbolic story involves two Legong girls dancing in mirror image. They are elaborately made up and dressed in gold brocade, relating a story about a king who takes a maiden captive and consequently starts a war, in which he dies.
7Shopping
Ubud has myriad art shops, boutiques and galleries. Many offer items that have been made locally. There’s also an enormous number of craft galleries, studios and workshops in villages north and south.
The area’s main shopping strip has moved to Jl Peliatan in Tebesaya and Peliatan. Here you’ll find all the stores and shops that supply locals with their daily needs.
oThreads of Life Indonesian Textile Arts CenterTEXTILES
(map Google map; %0361-972187; www.threadsoflife.com; Jl Kajeng 24; h10am-7pm)
This textile gallery and shop sponsors the production of naturally dyed, handmade ritual textiles from around Indonesia. It exists to help recover skills in danger of being lost to modern dyeing and weaving methods. Commissioned pieces are displayed in the gallery, which has good explanatory material, and other textiles are available for purchase. It also runs regular textile-appreciation courses (map; 2-hr class 200,000-400,000Rp; h10am-7pm).
BaliZenTEXTILES
(map Google map; %0361-976022; www.tokobalizen.com; Monkey Forest Rd; h9am-8pm)
Locally made cushions, bed and home linens, kimonos and kids clothing are sold at this stylish boutique, all made with fabrics featuring designs drawn from nature or utlising traditional Balinese motifs. It also sells natural bath products and traditional Balinese umbrellas.
oKouCOSMETICS
(map Google map; %0821 4556 9663, 0361-971905; www.facebook.com/koubali.naturalsoap; Jl Dewi Sita; h9am-8pm)
Concocted from pure coconut oil, the hand-made soaps sold here will bring the evocative scents of frangipani, tuberose, jasmine, orange and lemon tea-tree to your bathroom. The attractive packaging makes products suitable for gifts. It also operates Kou Cuisine.
BalitazaSPICES
(map Google map; %0811 393 9499; www.balitaza.com; JI Dewi Sita; h9.30am-9.30pm)
Coconut sugar, traditional Balinese coffee, herbal teas and Indonesian herbs and spices make great gifts to take home, especially with their attractive packaging.
Utama SpiceCOSMETICS
(map Google map; %0361-975051; www.utamaspicebali.com; Monkey Forest Rd; h9am-8.30pm)
The scent of Utama’s Balinese-made natural skincare products wafts out into the street, luring shoppers inside to investigate the pricey but nice essential oils, cosmetics and toiletries sold here. All are made without parabens, mineral oils, synthetic fragrances and artificial colourants.
Casa Luna EmporiumHOMEWARES
(map Google map; %0361-971605; www.casalunabali.com/the-emporium; Jl Raya Ubud 23; h8.30am-10pm)
Yet another enterprise started by local entrepreneur Janet DeNeefe, this shop sells its own brand of cotton bedlinen, cushion covers and napery, as well as handwoven textiles, batik, furniture and art made by Balinese artisans. It’s accessed via a staircase next to the Casa Luna restaurant.
NamasteGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(map Google map; %0361-970528; www.facebook.com/namastethespiritualshop; Jl Hanoman 64; h9am-7pm)
Just the place to buy a crystal to get your spiritual house in order, Namaste stocks a top range of New Age supplies. Incense, yoga mats, moody instrumental music – it’s all here.
Pondok Bamboo Music ShopMUSICAL INSTRUMENTS
(map Google map; %0361-974807; Monkey Forest Rd; h9am-8pm)
Hear the music of a thousand bamboo wind chimes at this store owned by noted gamelan musician Nyoman Warsa, who also offers music lessons (per hour 150,000Rp to 200,000Rp).
PusakaCLOTHING
(map Google map; %0821 4649 8865; Monkey Forest Rd 71; 9am-9pm)
Stylish Balinese-made clothing, toys, jewellery, textiles and shoes are sold at this branch of Denpasar’s popular Ethnologi boutique
Ubud Tea RoomFOOD & DRINKS
(map Google map; Jl Jembawan; h7am-9pm)
This hole-in-the-wall shop is lined with glass jars of teas grown in Bali, including fragrant herbal infusions. It shares premises with Bali Buda (map Google map; %0361-976324; www.balibuda.com; mains 38,000-67,000Rp, pizzas 63,000-81,000Rp; h7am-10pm; v).
UBUD’S BEST BUYS
You can spend days in and around Ubud shopping. Head to Monkey Forest Rd and JI Dewi Sita – boutiques there are a cut above the Ubud average. Start with the sweetly-scented Kou and then add to your shopping bag at nearby homewares, clothing, jewellery and produce shops.
Arts and crafts and yoga goods are found everywhere and at every price point and quality.
Ubud is the best place in Bali for books. Selections are wide and varied, especially for tomes on Balinese art and culture.
8Information
Fabulous Ubud Tourist Information Centre (map; %0361-973285; www.fabulousubud.com; Jl Raya Ubud; h8am-9pm; W) is operated by the Ubud royal family and is the closest thing that the town has to an official tourist office. It offers both transport information and up-to-date details on events, ceremonies and traditional dances held in the area; dance tickets and tours are sold here, as are tickets for the Kura-Kura Bus.
8Getting There & Awa
SHUTTLE BUS
Perama (map; %0361-973316; www.peramatour.com; Jl Raya Pengosekan; h7am-9pm) The major tourist-shuttle operator. Destinations include Sanur (50,000Rp, one hour), Kuta and the airport (60,000Rp, two hours) and Padangbai (75,000Rp, two hours). Its terminal is located in Padangtegal, south of the town centre; to get to/from your destination in Ubud will cost another 15,000Rp.
Kura-Kura Bus (www.kura2bus.com; one way 80,000Rp) Runs from near the Ubud Palace to its hub in Kuta five times daily (80,000Rp, two hours).
8Getting Around
Many high-end spas, hotels and restaurants located outside the town centre offer free shuttles for guests and customers. Ask about this before booking accommodation.
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
A taxi or hired car with driver from the airport to Ubud will cost 350,000Rp (400,000Rp between midnight and 6am). A hired car with driver to the airport will cost about the same.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
With numerous nearby attractions and no public transport, renting a car or motorcycle is sensible. Ask at your accommodation or hire a car and driver.
Expect to pay around 50,000Rp per day for a late model motorbike in good condition, considerably more for a car.
Most drivers are very fair; a few – often from out of the area – not so much. If you find a driver you like, get their number and call to organise rides during your stay. From central Ubud to, say, Sanggingan should cost about 40,000Rp. A ride from the palace to the end of Jl Hanoman should cost about 20,000Rp.
It’s easy to get a ride on an ojek (motorbike taxi); rates are half those of cars.
TAXI
There are no metered taxis based in Ubud – those that honk their horns at you have usually dropped off passengers from southern Bali and are hoping for a fare back. There are plenty of drivers with private vehicles on the streets hectoring passers-by, in contrast some quietly hold up ‘transport’ signs.
VISITING BALI’S TRADITIONAL HEALERS
Bali’s traditional healers, known as balian, play an important part in Bali’s culture by treating physical and mental illness, removing spells and channelling information from the ancestors. Numbering about 8000, balian are the ultimate in community medicine, making a commitment to serve their communities and turning no one away.
Lately, however, this system has come under stress in some areas due to the attention brought by Eat, Pray, Love and other media coverage of Bali’s healers. Curious tourists are turning up in village compounds, taking the balian’s time and attention from the ill. However, that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t visit a balian if you’re geniunely curious. Just do so in a manner that befits the experience: gently.
Consider the following before a visit.
A Make an appointment before visiting a balian.
A Know that English is rarely spoken.
A Dress respectfully (long trousers and a shirt, better yet a sarong and sash).
A Women should not be menstruating.
A Never point your feet at the healer.
A Bring an offering into which you have tucked the consulting fee, which will average about 250,000Rp per person.
A Understand what you’re getting into: your treatment will be very public and probably painful. It may include deep-tissue massage, being poked with sharp sticks or having chewed herbs spat on you.
Finding a balian can take some work. Ask at your hotel, which can probably help with making an appointment and providing a suitable offering for stashing your fee. Or consider getting a referral from Made Surya (www.balihealers.com; Ubud; per hr/day US$35/200), who is an authority on Bali’s traditional healers and offers one- and two-day intensive workshops on healing, magic, traditional systems and history, which include visits to authentic balian. His website is an excellent resource on visiting healers in Bali and he can also select an appropriate balian for you to visit and accompany you there as liaison and translator.
Some Western medical professionals question whether serious medical issues can be resolved by this type of healing, and patients should see a traditional healer in conjunction with a Western doctor if their ailment is serious.
South of Ubud
The roads between Ubud and south Bali are lined with little shops making and selling handicrafts. Many visitors shop along the route as they head to and from Ubud – sometimes by the busload – but as much of the craftwork is done in small workshops and family compounds on quiet back roads, it’s worth veering off the major roads. If you do this, you’ll likely discover temples and atmospheric villages, too.
Bedulu
%0361 / Pop 10,300
Bedulu was once the capital of a great kingdom. The legendary Dalem Bedaulu ruled the Pejeng dynasty from here, and was the last Balinese king to withstand the onslaught of the powerful Majapahit from Java. He was defeated by Gajah Mada in 1343. The capital shifted several times after this, to Gelgel and then later to Klungkung (Semarapura). Today Bedulu is absorbed into the greater Ubud sprawl, and is worth visiting for its temples.
BALI’S VILLAGE ARTISTS
In small villages throughout the Ubud region, from Sebatu to Mas and beyond across Bali, you’ll see small signs for artists and craftspeople, often near the local temple. As one local told us, ‘we are only as rich of a village as our art’, so the people who create the ceremonial costumes, masks, kris (traditional dagger), musical instruments and all the other beautiful aspects of Balinese life and religion are accorded great honour. It’s a symbiotic relationship, with the artist never charging the village for the work and the village in turn seeing to the welfare of the artist. Often there are many artists in residence because few events would bring more shame to a village than having to go to another village to procure a needed sacred object.
1Sights
Yeh PuluHISTORIC SITE
(adult/child 15,000/7500Rp; h8am-5.30pm)
Set amid rice terraces, this 25m-long carved cliff face next to the Sungai Petanu is believed to be the remnants of a 14th-century hermitage. Even if your interest in carved Hindu art is minor, the site is attractive and you’re likely to have it all to yourself. Apart from the figure of Ganesha, elephant-headed son of Shiva, most scenes depict scenes of everyday life. From the site entrance, a 300m walk on a gently inclined path goes to the carvings.
You can walk between Yeh Pulu and Goa Gajah, following small paths through the paddy fields, but you might need to pay a local to guide you. By car or bicycle, look for the signs to ‘Relief Yeh Pulu’ or ‘Villa Yeh Pulu’, east of Goa Gajah.
Goa GajahCAVE
(Elephant Cave; Jl Raya Goa Gajah; adult/child 15,000/7500Rp, parking car/motorcycle 5000/2000Rp; h7.30am-7pm)
Visitors enter this rock-hewn cave through the cavernous mouth of a demon. Inside, there are fragmentary remains of a lingam, the phallic symbol of the Hindu god Shiva, and its female counterpart the yoni, as well as a statue of Shiva’s son, the elephant-headed god Ganesha. Outside, two square bathing pools have waterspouts held by six female figures. Located 2km southeast of Ubud on the road to Bedulu, the compound has a sideshow atmosphere, and is inevitably crammed with foreign tourists.
8Getting There & Away
The road from Ubud is reasonably flat, so coming to Bedulu by bicycle or on foot is a reasonable option.
Mas
%0361 / Pop 13,120
Mas means ‘gold’ in Bahasa Indonesia, but woodcarving is the principal craft in this artisans’ village just south of Ubud. Stores and galleries line the main road, JI Raya Mas, and workshops are located both here and in side streets.
1Sights
oSetia Darma House of Mask and PuppetsMUSEUM
(%0361-898 7493; www.maskandpuppets.com; Jl Tegal Bingin; admission by donation; h8am-6pm)
This is one of the best museums in the Ubud area, home to more than 7000 ceremonial masks and puppets from Bali, other parts of Indonesia, Asia and beyond. All are beautifully displayed in a series of renovated historic buildings. Among the many treasures, look for the amazing Barong Landung puppets and the Kamasan paintings. There’s also a large collection of puppets from other countries. The museum is about 2km northeast of the main Mas crossroads.
Tonyraka Art LoungeGALLERY
(%0812 3600 8035; www.tonyrakaartgallery.com; Jl Raya Mas 86; h10am-5pm)
One of the premier galleries in the Ubud area, showing top-notch Balinese tribal and contemporary art. Come to browse, buy and to enjoy lunch or a coffee at the chic cafe, which is one of the best in the Ubud area.
Museum RudanaGALLERY
(map Google map; %0361-975779; www.museumrudana.com; Jl Raya Mas; 50,000Rp; h9.30am-5pm)
This imposing museum overlooking rice fields is the creation of local politician and art lover Nyoman Rudana and his wife, Ni Wayan Olasthini. The three floors contain more than 400 traditional paintings, including a calendar dated to the 1840s, some Lempad drawings and more modern pieces. The museum is located next to the Rudana’s commercial gallery.
CCourses
Ida Bagus AnomART
(%0812 380 1924, 0898 914 2606; www.balimaskmaking.com; Jl Raya Mas; 4hr class 250,000Rp; hhours vary)
Three generations of some of Bali’s best mask carvers will show you their secrets in a family compound opposite the football field; a mask usually takes 10 days to make.
5Eating
There are plenty of eateries – warungs, cafes and restaurants – on JI Raya Mas.
Warung TegesBALINESE$
(map Google map; %0361-975251; Jl Cok Rai Pudak; nasi campur 25,000Rp; h8am-6pm)
This ultra-simple warung serves only one dish – nasi campur – and it’s one of the better versions available in the Ubud area. The restaurant gets just about everything right, from the pork sausage to the chicken satay, the babi guling to the tempeh. The sambal is delicious: fresh and tangy, with a perfect amount of heat.
oArt Lounge CafeCAFE$$
(%0361-908 2435; www.facebook.com/TonyrakaArtLounge; JI Raya Mas 86; panini 73,000-88,000Rp, mains 45,000-135,000Rp; h8am-10pm; Wv)
An outpost of Bali chic on one of the main roads between Ubud and the coast, this fashionable cafe in the Tonyraka Art Lounge is an excellent lunch, dinner or coffee spot. Staff know how to make a good coffee, and the food is good – we particularly recommend the cakes.
Bebek Semar WarungBALINESE$$
(%0361-974677; Jl Raya Mas 165; mains 85,000-135,000Rp; h8am-9pm)
It doesn’t look promising from the street but step through to the breezy dining area and you’ll be confronted with a green vista of rice fields stretching off to palm trees. The Balinese duck dishes that are the house specialty are unusual and delicious. Find it 1km south of where Jl Raya Mas meets Jl Raya Pengosekan.
8Getting There & Away
South of Ubud, the roads are mostly flat so cyclists will be pleased, although the main roads can be busy. Otherwise you’ll want your own wheels in this region. The back roads are great for cycling and walking.
Batubulan
%0361 / Pop 8450
Stone carving is the main craft of Batubulan, and the start of the main road to Ubud from south Bali is lined with outlets for stone sculptures. Workshops are found right along the road to Tegaltamu, with another batch further north around Silakarang. The village is also the source of the stunning temple-gate guardians seen all over Bali. The stone used for these sculptures is a porous grey volcanic rock called paras, which resembles pumice; it’s soft and surprisingly light. It also ages quickly, so that ‘ancient’ work may be years rather than centuries old.
1Sights
Pura Puseh Desa BatubulanHINDU TEMPLE
(JI Raya Batuan; by donation; h8am-noon)
The temples around Batubulan are noted for their fine stonework. Just 200m to the east of the busy main road, Pura Puseh Desa Batubulan is worth a visit for its perfectly balanced overall composition. Statues draw on ancient Hindu and Buddhist iconography and Balinese mythology; however, they are not old – many are copied from books on archaeology.
Bali Bird ParkBIRD SANCTUARY
(%0361-299352; www.balibirdpark.com; Jl Serma Cok Ngurah Gambir; adult/child 2-12yr 385,000/192,500Rp; h9am-5.30pm; pc)
More than 1000 birds from 250 species and seven regions of the world flit about here, including rare cendrawasih (bird of paradise) from Papua and the all-but-vanished Bali starlings. Many are housed in special walk-through aviaries. Daily free-flight bird and bird of prey shows are staged, along with pelican and lory feedings. The park is popular with kids; allow at least two hours.
Bali Reptile ParkANIMAL SANCTUARY
(Jl Serma Cok Ngurah Gambir; adult/child 2-12yr 100,000/50,000Rp; h9am-5pm)
This sanctuary claims to have the most complete collection of reptiles in Southeast Asia. There are snakes and lizards galore. Try to time your visit with the daily feedings of the park’s huge prehistoric Komodo dragons (11am and 2.30pm).
8Getting There & Away
You’ll need your own transport to explore here. The roads are mostly flat so good for cyclists, although the main roads can be busy.
North of Ubud
North of Ubud, Bali becomes cooler and more lush. Ancient sites and natural beauty abound. A popular route from Ubud northeast towards Gunung Batur passes through Tegallalang, home to the photogenic Ceking rice terraces, and then continues via Tampaksiring, passing Gunung Kawi Sebatu, Pura Gunung Kawi and Tirta Empul en route. The scenery on this route is green and extremely picturesque – you’ll see farmers working in their fields, colourful flags fluttering in the wind and plenty of rice terraces and roadside shrines.
1Sights
Gunung Kawi SebatuHINDU TEMPLE
(Sebatu; adult/child 15,000/7500Rp, parking 5000Rp)
The western approach to this water temple in Sebatu offers wonderful views down on to the complex – many visitors are content to admire these from the side of the road rather than entering the actual temple. Inside, spring-fed pools are set against a lush green backdrop. The temple is dedicated to Vishnu and is used locally for purification rituals.
8Getting There & Away
You’ll need your own transport to explore this part of the island.
Tampaksiring
%0361 / Pop 10,480
Located in the Pakerisan Valley, 18km northeast of Ubud, Tampaksiring was the base of one the major kingdoms during Bali’s pre-colonial period. It’s home to both Pura Tirta Empul, an ancient and important water temple, and Gunung Kawi, one of the most impressive ancient sites in Bali. The area is replete with terraced rice fields running down to the river and streams – wonderful subject matter for photographers.
1Sights
Gunung KawiMONUMENT
(adult/child 15,000/7500Rp, parking 2000Rp; h7am-5pm)
One of Bali’s oldest and most important monuments, this river-valley complex consists of 10 huge candi (shrines) cut out of rock faces. Each is believed to be a memorial to a member of 11th-century Balinese royalty. Legends relate that the whole group was carved out of the rock in one hard-working night by the mighty fingernails of Kebo Iwa. You’ll need to be fit to explore here, as access to the valley and shrines is via a steep 250-step staircase.
Pura Tirta EmpulHINDU TEMPLE
(Holy Spring Temple; Tampaksiring; adult/child 15,000/7500Rp, parking 5000Rp; h7am-6pm)
Discovered in AD 962 and believed to have magical powers, the holy springs at this water temple close to the ancient site of Gunung Kawi bubble up into a large pool and gush out through waterspouts into a petirtaan (bathing area) used for ritual purification. The water can be polluted, so bathing isn’t recommended. The ticket price includes sarong hire.
East Bali
Exploring east Bali is one of the island’s great pleasures. Rice terraces spill down hillsides, wild volcanic beaches are pounded by surf and traditional villages are barely touched by modernity. Watching over this region is Gunung Agung, the 3142m active volcano known as the ‘Navel of the World’ and ‘Mother Mountain’.
Temples, palaces and whimsically designed water gardens are dotted throughout the landscape. Two of the temples – Pura Besakih and Pura Lempuyang – are among Bali’s most important pilgrimage sites, and evocative reminders of the island’s royal dynasties can be found in Klungkung (Semarapura) in Amlapura and at Tirta Gangga.
Up on the northeast coast, Amed and Tulamben are laid-back beach destinations for those keen to escape the crowds on the south coast. Diving, snorkelling, enjoying yoga and lazing by swimming pools are the priorities up here, and can be enjoyed by travellers on every budget.
8Getting There & Away
The coastal highway links most places of interest in east Bali. Otherwise you’ll find hillside roads that weave through the lush, green countryside. Shuttle services run to/from south Bali, the port town of Padangbai and the tourist enclave of Candidasa. Additional shuttles head to the northeast coast by demand.
Bangli
%0366 / Pop Kawan 8390, Cempaga 7520
Halfway up the slope to Penelokan, Bangli, once the capital of a kingdom, is a humble market town noteworthy for its sprawling temple, Pura Kehen, which is on a beautiful jungle road that runs east past rice terraces and connects at Sekar with roads to Rendang and Sideman.
1Sights
oPura KehenHINDU TEMPLE
(Jl Sriwijaya, Cempaga; adult/child incl sarong 30,000Rp/free, parking 2000Rp; h9am-5pm)
The state temple of the Bangli kingdom, Pura Kehen is a miniature version of Pura Besakih, Bali’s most important temple. It’s terraced up the hillside, with a flight of steps leading to the beautifully decorated entrance. The first courtyard has a huge banyan tree with a kulkul (hollow tree-trunk drum used to sound warnings) entwined in its branches and the inner courtyard has an 11-roof meru (multitiered shrine). Other shrines have thrones for the Hindu trinity: Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu.
8Getting There & Away
Most people visit Bangli under their own steam or on organised tours to Pura Besakih.
Klungkung (Semarapura)
%0366 / Pop 22,610
Officially called Semarapura but commonly known by its traditional name Klungkung, this district capital is home to the historically significant Puri Agung Semarapura (Klungkung Palace), a relic of the days of Klungkung’s rajas, the Dewa Agungs. Once the centre of Bali’s most important kingdom, the town retains the palace compound and a few temples from its royal past and has a busy market opposite the centrally located palace compound.
1Sights
oPuri Agung SemarapuraPALACE
(Klungkung Palace; Jl Untung Surapati; adult/child 12,000/6000Rp; h8am-6pm)
Built when the Dewa Agung dynasty moved here in 1710, this palace compound was laid out as a large square, believed to be in the form of a mandala, with courtyards, gardens, pavilions and moats. Most of the original palace and grounds were destroyed by the 1908 Dutch attacks; all that remain are the carved Pemedal Agung, the gateway on the south side of the square, the Kertha Gosa and the Bale Kambang.
The ticket office is on the opposite side of JI Untung Surapati, next to the Puputan Monument.
Bale Kambang
(Floating Pavilion)
The ceiling of this beautiful floating bale (open-sided pavilion) showcases rows of paintings dealing with various subjects. The first row is based on the astrological calendar, the second on the folk tale of Pan and Men Brayut and their 18 children, and the upper rows on the adventures of the hero Sutasona.
Kertha Gosa
(Hall of Justice)
This open-sided pavilion in the northeastern corner of Puri Agung Semarapura was effectively the supreme court of the Klungkung kingdom, where disputes and cases that could not be settled at village level were eventually brought. A superb example of Klungkung architecture, it features a ceiling covered with fine 20th-century paintings in Kamasan (aka Wayang) style. These replaced the original 19th-century cloth paintings, which had deteriorated over time, and depict the Garuda story among other scenes.
8Getting There & Away
The best way to visit Klungkung is with your own transport and as part of a circuit taking in other sites up the mountains and along the coast.
This is one of the few towns in east Bali with a functioning terminal bis (bus station). Located south of the palace compound, just off JI Puputan, it has bemo and bus services to/from Denpasar’s Batubulan terminal (25,000Rp), Amlapura (20,000Rp), Padanbai (25,000Rp), Sideman (15,000Rp) and Gianyar (20,000Rp).
Sidemen
%0366 / Pop 3780
In Sidemen (pronounced Si-da-men), a walk in any direction is a communion with nature. Winding through one of Bali’s most beautiful river valleys, the road to this hilltop village offers marvellous paddy-field scenery, a delightful rural character and extraordinary views of Gunung Agung (when the clouds permit).
There are many walks through the rice and chilli fields in the multihued green valley. One involves a spectacular three-hour, round-trip climb up to Pura Bukit Tageh, a small temple with big views. No matter where you stay, you’ll be able to arrange guides for in-depth trekking (about 75,000Rp per person for a two-hour trek) or just set out on your own exploration. Many of the resorts offer their guests guided treks as part of activities programmes, too.
4Sleeping
There is a decent range of resorts, hotels and guesthouses at various budget levels in Sidemen; most are located on JI Raya Tebola. It can get cool and misty at night, so pack an extra layer or two of clothing.
Khrisna Home StayHOMESTAY$
(%0815 5832 1543; pinpinaryadi@yahoo.com; JI Raya Tebola; s 250,000-350,000Rp, d 350,000-700,000Rp, f 900,000-1,000,000Rp; Ws)
This friendly nine-room homestay is surrounded by organic fruit trees and has a cute pool area. The rooms are comfortable, although the singles are very small; all have fans. One deluxe double has a lovely view over the rice fields. The little restaurant serves excellent breakfasts and vegetable-dominated dinners (mains 35,000Rp to 50,000Rp).
oAlamdhari Resort and SpaHOTEL$$
(%0812 3700 6290; www.alamdhari.com; JI Raya Tebola; d/tw 680,000-850,000Rp, f 1,000,000-1,250,000Rp; pWs)
Recently opened, this boutique choice is pleasing to both the eye and the wallet. The 14 rooms are light and airy, with comfortable beds, fans, excellent bathrooms and good-sized balconies. The view from the pool – best appreciated from one of the comfy sun lounges provided – is spectacular, and facilities include a restaurant (mains 50,000Rp to 120,000Rp) and a small spa. Love it.
oDarmada Eco ResortRESORT$$
(%0853 3803 2100; www.darmadabali.com; JI Raya Luah; r 500,000-700,000Rp, f 900,000-1,100,000Rp; Ws)
Rooms at this well-priced resort set in a lush river valley are simple affairs, but this isn’t a problem as most guests spend their time in the lovely spring-water swimming pool or taking advantage of the extensive programme of paid activities (meditation, yoga, massage, trekking, cooking classes). The resort’s riverside restaurant is excellent. Wi-fi in common areas only.
5Eating
Most accommodation options have restaurants and there are warungs along JI Raya Tebola. The restaurants at Darmada Eco Resort, Samanvaya (%0821 4710 3884; www.samanvaya-bali.com; JI Raya Tebola) and Wapa di Ume (%0366-543 7600; www.wapadiumesidemen.com; JI Raya Tebola) welcome non-guests.
oDapur KapulagaBALINESE$
(%0852 3861 5775; JI Raya Tebola; mains 32,000-50,000Rp; h1-10pm; v) S
Serving a predominantly organic menu of Western and Balinese staples, this friendly and clean warung with its distinctive checkerboard-tiled floor is a great choice. You’ll find it in front of the Alamdhari Resort & Spa. No alcohol, but the house-concocted Sidemen Cooler steps into the breach nicely.
8Getting There & Away
The Sideman road can be a beautiful part of any day trip from south Bali or Ubud. It connects in the north with the Rendang−Amlapura road just west of Duda. Unfortunately the road is busy due to huge trucks hauling rocks for Bali’s incessant construction.
A less-travelled route to Pura Besakih goes northeast from Klungkung (Semarapura), via Sideman and Iseh, to another scenic treat: the Rendang−Amlapura road.
Near the centre of Sideman, a small road heads west for 500m to a fork where signs will direct you to various guesthouses.
Gunung Agung
Bali’s highest and most revered mountain, Gunung Agung is an imposing volcano that can be seen from most of south and east Bali when clear of cloud and mist. Most sources say it’s 3142m high. The summit is an oval crater, about 700m across, with its highest point on the western edge above Pura Besakih.
As it’s the spiritual centre of Bali, traditional houses are laid out on an axis in line with Agung and many locals always know where they are in relation to the peak, which is thought to house ancestral spirits. The volcano has been erupting sporadically since November 2017, and an official Level 3 (standby) alert is current, with an exclusion zone of 4km around the volcano’s crater.
1Sights
oPura BesakihHINDU TEMPLE
(60,000Rp, parking 5000Rp)
Perched nearly 1000m up the side of Gunung Agung, this is Bali’s most important Hindu temple. The site encompasses 23 separate but related temples, with the largest and most important being Pura Penataran Agung, built on six levels terraced up the slope. It has an imposing candi bentar (split gateway); note that tourists are not allowed inside. The Pura Besakih complex hosts frequent ceremonies, but the recent eruptions of the volcano have kept both worshipper and visitor numbers down.
The precise origins of the temple complex are not totally clear, but it almost certainly dates from prehistoric times. The stone bases of Pura Penataran Agung and several other temples resemble megalithic stepped pyramids and date back at least 2000 years. It was certainly used as a Hindu place of worship from 1284, when the first Javanese conquerors settled in Bali. By the 15th century Besakih had become a state temple of the Gelgel dynasty.
When you reach the site there are two parking areas: Parkir Bawa and Parking Atas. The former is the main parking area and the first you’ll encounter coming from the south; all tourists must park here. There is a ticket office close by. Sarongs and sashes are available next to the office, and must be worn; rental is included in your ticket. Many visitors bring their own.
AN UNHOLY EXPERIENCE?
Some visitors to Pura Besakih report being hassled by touts and scammed by locals; others have an enjoyable, hassle-free experience. What follows are some of the possible ploys you should be aware of before a visit:
A Unofficial and official guides hang around looking for visitors. They may emphatically tell you that guide services are compulsory, tell you that temples are ‘closed for a ceremony’ and quote a ridiculously high price for a short visit. None of this is true: you may always walk among the temples and no ‘guide’ can get you into a closed temple. Only hire a guide if you want one, and always agree on a fee before you start.
A Once inside the complex, you may receive offers to ‘come pray with me’. Visitors who seize on this chance to get into a forbidden temple can face demands of 100,000Rp or more.
A Never allow anyone to keep the ticket you are issued with. It’s just an excuse for someone else to sell you another.
A Local women may try to give you offerings – if you accept them, they will then demand 10,000Rp or so. It is not necessary to make offerings in the temples.
A Sarong and sash hire is included in the ticket price – get one when you pay for your ticket. Alternatively, bring your own.
A A scooter ride up the hill from the ticket office is also included in the ticket price. Drivers will ask for a tip but this is at your discretion.
2Activities
Climbing Gunung Agung takes you through verdant forest in the clouds and rewards with sweeping (dawn) views. It’s best to climb during the dry season (April to September); July to September are the most reliable months. At other times the paths can be slippery and dangerous and the views are clouded over (especially true in January and February). Climbing is not permitted when major religious events are being held at Pura Besakih, which generally includes most of April.
Guides
Trips with guides on either of the routes up Gunung Agung generally include breakfast and other meals as well as a place to stay, but be sure to confirm all details in advance. Guides are also able to arrange transport.
Most of the places to stay in the region, including those at Selat, along the Sidemen road and at Tirta Gangga, will recommend guides for Gunung Agung climbs.
Most guides charge between 600,000Rp and 900,000Rp per person for the climb from Pura Besikah and 450,000Rp to 600,000Rp per person from Pura Pasar Agung.
I Ketut UriadaHIKING
(%0812 364 6426; ketut.uriada@gmail.com)
This knowledgeable guide in Muncan can arrange treks throughout the region. He also operates a small guesthouse (rooms 125,000Rp to 160,000Rp) and can organise transport to/from the area.
Wayan TegtegHIKING
(%0813 3852 5677; www.facebook.com/wayan.tegteg.7)
A recommended Gunung Agung guide who wins plaudits from hikers.
TIPS FOR CLIMBING GUNUNG AGUNG
A Always check official warnings before planning or setting out on a climb.
A Use a guide.
A Respect your guide’s pauses at shrines for prayers on the sacred mountain.
A Get to the top before 8am − the clouds that often obscure the view of Agung also obscure the view from Agung.
A Take a strong torch (flashlight), extra batteries, plenty of water (2L per person), snack food, waterproof clothing and a warm jumper (sweater).
A Wear strong shoes or boots and have manicured toes – the trail is very steep and the descent is especially hard on your feet.
A This is a hard climb, don’t fool yourself.
A Take frequent rests and don’t be afraid to ask your guide to slow down.
8Getting There & Away
Usually you’ll make arrangements with your guide to get to the trailheads for a climb. There is no public transport.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
BALI ASLI
Located in the fertile green foothills of Gunung Agung, the farming village of Gelumpang may seem a strange place to find a world-class restaurant and cooking school. However, this is where much-travelled Australian chef Penelope Williams has established the renowned Bali Asli (%0822 3690 9215; www.baliasli.com.au; Jl Raya Gelumpang; nasi campur 165,000-228,000Rp; h10am-3pm; W), which offers visitors to Bali a truly unique culinary experience. Asli is the Balinese term used for something that is created in the traditional way, and there is much that is traditional here – the Balinese menu changes daily, dictated by what is fresh at the local pasar (market) or has been harvested in the restaurant’s own garden. Dishes are cooked on wood-fired, mud-brick stoves by local chefs – many female – and the results are enjoyed in a magnificent open-sided dining room overlooking rice terraces and the famous but often mist-shrouded volcano. The food is authentically village style – diners choose between an array of small dishes to make up a personalised and extremely flavoursome version of nasi campur.
The daily cooking classes include a hike into the surrounding countryside to visit locals farmers – maybe to see rice being planted or palm wine being made – or to a local market before heading back to the kitchen for a 2½-hour cooking class followed by lunch.
You’ll need your own transport to get here. From the south coast, drive towards Amlapura via JI Achmad Yani, turn right at the first traffic light and then left at the second traffic light onto the main road to Amed and Tirta Gangga. Soon you’ll pass a football ground and big school on the left and should then turn right at the next traffic light. Follow this smaller road to the T-intersection then turn left and head up the hill, taking a sharp right turn to arrive at Bali Asli.
Coast Road to Kusamba
%0361
The coastal highway between Sanur and Kusamba runs alongside a swathe of black-sand beaches and past two of the island’s best surf breaks (at Keramas and Ketewel). There aren’t many compelling reasons to pause on your journey, as most beaches are dirty and many aren’t safe to swim at. The highway is lined with stores, factories and warungs (food stalls) used by truckers.
1Sights
Pantai KeramasBEACH
(Keramas)
Villa and hotel projects are sprouting here. The surf is consistent and world-class.
4Sleeping
Hotels are slowly being constructed, but there are few tempting choices. The excellent Hotel Komune is an exception to this rule.
oHotel KomuneRESORT$$$
(%0361-301 8888; www.komuneresorts.com; Jl Pantai Keramas, Keramas; r from US$99, ste from US$130, villas from US$250; paWs) S
A resort in the true sense of the word, Komune offers everything needed for an active and enjoyable holiday. The surf here is among Bali’s best, although not suitable for beginners. Other activities include yoga, meditation and kids movie nights. Rooms are stylish and comfortable, and the beachfront Beach Club (www.komuneresorts.com/keramasbali/beach-club; sandwiches & burgers 65,000-95,000Rp, mains 58,000-250,000Rp; h6.30am-11pm; Wvc) S has a party vibe at every time of the day.
Light towers make it possible for surfers to take their boards out at night; board and wetsuit hire is available. The kids club has a trampoline, swing and skate park.
COAST ROAD BEACHES
As you head east on the coast road from Sanur, pretty much any road or lane heading south will end up at a beach.
The shoreline is striking, with beaches in volcanic shades of grey pounded by waves. The entire coast has great religious significance and there are oodles of temples scattered along it. At the many small coastal-village beaches, cremation formalities reach their conclusion when the ashes are consigned to the sea. Ritual purification ceremonies for temple artefacts are also held on these beaches.
Some key points:
A Ketewel and Keramas are top spots for surfing.
A Swimming in the often pounding surf is dangerous.
A Most beaches have no shade.
A Many beaches have a food or drinks vendor or two.
A You’ll need your own transport to reach these beaches.
A Locals will sometimes charge you an access fee – about 5000Rp.
A Rubbish is a depressing fact at most of the beaches.
Padangbai
%0363 / Pop 3090
This little beach town is the port for public ferries connecting Bali with Lombok and Nusa Penida; there are also fast boats to Lombok and the Gilis. When not inundated by travellers in transit, it has a laid-back vibe and its accommodation, eating and drinking options are solidly geared towards the backpacker and diving markets. Though its location on a small bay with a curve of beach is attractive, the town itself is quite ugly and dirty – don’t come here seeking a sybaritic sojourn.
2Activities
The main activities are diving and snorkelling; there are a number of dive centres and shops on Jl Silayukti, opposite the main beach.
Diving & Snorkelling
There is good diving on the coral reefs around Padangbai, but the water can be a bit cold and visibility is not always ideal. The most popular local dives are Blue Lagoon and Teluk Jepun (Jepun Bay), both in Teluk Amuk, the bay just east of Padangbai. There’s a good range of soft and hard corals and varied marine life, including sharks, turtles and wrasse, and a 23m wall at Blue Lagoon.
Many local outfits offer diving trips in the area, including to Gili Tepekong and Gili Biaha and on to Tulamben and Nusa Penida.
One of the best and most accessible walk-in snorkel sites is off Blue Lagoon Beach. Note that it is subject to strong currents when the tide is out. Other sites such as Teluk Jepun can be reached by local boat (or check with the dive operators to see if they have any room on their boats; the cost will be around 130,000Rp). Snorkel-set hire costs around 50,000Rp per day.
The local dive shops can organise snorkelling trips for beginners and experienced snorkellers (450,000Rp to 750,000Rp per person) and will also hire snorkel gear by the half- or full day.
OK DiversDIVING
(map Google map; %0811 385 8830; www.okdiversbali.com; Jl Silayukti 6, OK Divers Resort; 2 dives 1,080,000Rp)
Offers a range of PADI diving courses and diving safaris around the island, as well as local dives and snorkelling opportunities. The associated resort offers good accommodation.
Water WorxxDIVING
(map Google map; %0363-41220; www.waterworxbali.com; Jl Silayukti; 2 dives US$80-125)
A well-regarded dive operator offering trips to surrounding areas, plus PADI and SSI courses. Can also arrange dives for travellers with disabilities.
Geko DiveDIVING
(map Google map; %0363-41516; www.gekodivebali.com; Jl Silayukti; dives from 650,000Rp)
With a base just across from the beach, this long-established PADI-accredited operator offers equipment hire, dives and snorkelling trips.
4Sleeping
Decent accommodation options are thin on the ground, with dark, dirty and depressing homestays and guesthouses well represented. Fortunately, there are a couple of decent hostels and at least two resorts worthy of the appellation. Most accommodation choices sit in the budget category.
Bamboo ParadiseHOSTEL$
(map Google map; %0363-438 1765, 0822 6630 4330; Jl Penataran Agung; dm 120,000Rp, s 200,000-350,000Rp, d 250,000-400,000Rp; aW)
In a leafy street close to the port, this is Padangbai’s best budget accommodation. A full makeover with a new architect-designed building is due to be revealed in May 2019, but the laid-back vibe, bar, lounge, dorm accommodation and good breakfast will be retained. At present, there is one six-bed mixed dorm with bathroom and air-con and six private rooms.
OK Divers Resort & SpaRESORT$$
(map Google map; %0811 385 8830; www.okdiversbali.com; Jl Silayukti 6; r from 990,000Rp; paWs) S
Facilities here are the best the town has to offer, with a spa, two pools, a dive centre and a pavilion cafe. Rooms are well set up, with satellite TV and tea- and coffee-making facilities. One room has been designed to accommodate guests in wheelchairs. The only negative is the wi-fi access – guests report that it is consistently unreliable.
oBloo Lagoon Eco VillageRESORT$$$
(map Google map; %0363-41211; www.bloolagoon.com; Jl Silayukti; 1-/2-/3-bed bungalow from US$124/181/202; paiWs) S
Crowning a clifftop at the town’s eastern edge, this place is notable for its sea-facing yoga deck (free classes daily), well-priced spa (massages 210,000Rp to 300,000Rp) and kid-friendly pool with water slide. The 25 guest bungalows come with one, two or three bedrooms. All overlook Blue Lagoon Beach and have large outdoor living terraces, kitchens and open-air bathrooms; some have air-con.
5Eating
Beach fare and backpacker staples dominate menus in Padangbai – lots of fresh seafood, Indonesian classics, pizza, burgers and, yes, banana pancakes. You can easily laze away a few hours soaking up the scene at the places along Jl Segara and Jl Silayukti, which have harbour views during the day and cool breezes in the evening.
oColonial RestaurantCAFE$$
(map Google map; %0811 397 8837; www.facebook.com/thecolonialpadangbai; Jl Silayukti 6, OK Divers Resort & Spa; mains 50,000-150,000Rp; h7am-11pm; Wv)
The most stylish eatery in town, this pavilion cafe overlooking the pool at the OK Divers resort is a great place to while away a few hours. Food is much better than the Padangbai norm, with an eclectic range of both Western and Indonesian choices on offer. Drinks include fresh juices, milkshakes and Bintang on tap. Patrons can use the pool.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Most of Padangbai’s bars and cafes are clustered in the town centre, east of the port; many of the bars offer live music a few nights a week.
oOmang OmangBAR
(map Google map; %0363-438 1251; www.facebook.com/OmangOmang999; Jl Silayukti 12)
A loyal crew of Omangsters (regulars) join a constant stream of blow-ins at this friendly eatery, bar and live-music venue. Nosh on toasties, tacos, burgers and Indonesian favourites, down an ice-cold Bintang or two and rock along with the house blues band on Monday nights. Decent coffee, too.
8Information
There are several ATMs around town, including one on JI Pelabuhan near the port and another on JI Segara opposite the main beach.
8Getting There & Away
BOAT
Anyone who carries your luggage on or off the ferries or fast boats will expect to be paid, so agree on the price first or carry your own stuff. Also, watch out for scams where the porter may try to sell you a ticket you’ve already bought.
Ignore touts who meet all arriving boats and departing passengers. Only buy public ferry tickets from the official window in the ferry building.
From Lombok & Gili Islands
You can travel to/from Lombok on fast boat or public ferry, and head to/from the Gilis by fast boat. Be sure to consider important safety information.
Fast Boats Several companies link Padangbai to the Gilis and Lombok; they have offices on the waterfront. Fares are negotiable and start at 250,000Rp one-way. Travel times will be more than the 90 minutes advertised.
Public Ferries (off Jl Segara) Car ferries travel between Padangbai and Lembar on Lombok (adult/child/motorbike/car 46,000/29,000/129,000/917,000Rp; four to six hours). Passenger tickets are sold at an office at the port. Boats supposedly run 24 hours and leave about every 90 minutes, but the service can be unreliable.
From Nusa Penida
Public ferries (adult/child/motorbike/car 31,000/26,000/50,000/295,000Rp) leave most days; the trip takes one hour. Large car ferries leave from the main wharf at the port; smaller passenger-only ferries usually leave from the jetty to the left of the main wharf. Passenger tickets for the car ferries are sold at an office at the port; buy tickets for the smaller ferries on board.
TOURIST BUSES
Perama (%0361-751875; www.peramatour.com; Jl Pelabuhan) shuttles connect Padangbai with other parts of Bali. Destinations include Kuta, Denpasar airport, Sanur and Ubud (all 75,000Rp, three daily); Amed and Tulamben (100,000Rp, one daily); Lovina (175,000Rp, one daily); Candidasa (35,000Rp, three daily) and Tirta Gangga (75,000Rp, one daily). Buses leave from outside the Perama office in Jl Pelabuhan, near the port.
Made’s Tourist Service (%0877 0145 0700, 0363-41441; hvary) also sells tickets for shuttles. It can organise for you to get to Ubud (75,000Rp), Sanur (75,000Rp), Kuta (75,000Rp), Denpasar airport (75,000Rp), Tirta Gangaa (95,000Rp, three passenger minimum), Candidasa (65,000Rp, two passenger minimum), Tulamben (125,000Rp, three passenger minimum) and Lovina (250,000Rp, three passenger minimum).
TAXI
Local taxis charge 300,000Rp to travel to Ubud and Sanur; it costs 350,000Rp to Kuta, Legian, Seminyak, Jimbaran or Denpasar airport.
Candidasa
%0363 / Pop 2190
Officially known as Segkidu Village but called Candidasa for tourism purposes, this east coast settlement is heavily developed with hotels. The beach here was pretty well destroyed in the 1970s, when its offshore reef was mined for lime to make cement and other construction materials, so those seeking to swim, snorkel or dive in the sea should steer clear. However, the hinterland is attractive, the picturesque lagoon in the centre of town is full of water lillies that bloom in the morning and many of the local hotels have gorgeous beachside infinity pools where guests can laze their days away.
1Sights
A little bend in the east coast called Jasri Bay, just south of Amlapura, has earned the nickname Teluk Penyu, or Turtle Bay. The shelled critters do indeed come here to nest and there have been some efforts made to protect them. If you see a turtle or nest, be sure to keep your distance; never attempt to touch or pick up a wild sea turtle.
The main road east of Candidasa curves up to Pura Gamang Pass (gamang means ‘to get dizzy’ – an overstatement), from where you’ll find fine views down to the coast and lots of greedy-faced monkeys (who have become so prolific that they have stripped crops bare from here up the mountain to Tenganan).
Pantai Pasir PutihBEACH
(Virgin Beach)
The most popular ‘secret’ beach on Bali, Pantai Pasir Putih (White Sand Beach) lives up to its name. Once a mooring spot for local fishing boats, this long crescent of white sand backed by coconut palms is now a popular tourist attraction, with thatched beach warungs and cafes lining the sand and souvenir stalls clustered around the car park. Sun lounges await bikini-clad bottoms. The water is safe for swimming and you can rent snorkelling gear to explore the sparkling aquamarine water.
From JI Raya Perasi (the main highway), look for the large ‘White Sand Beach’ sign and then turn off the main road and follow a paved track for 1.2km to a large dirt parking area; other tracks are signed ‘Virgin Beach’. Locals will collect an access fee (10,000Rp per person including parking).
Cars and motorbikes are barred from driving close to the beach. There’s a track down to the sand from the parking area.
2Activities
There are a few options for diving and off-shore snorkelling here, but you’ll be much happier heading northeast to Amed to enjoy these activities. Instead, consider taking a hike in the attractive hinterland.
Traditional villages dot the pretty countryside inland from Candidasa. If you walk along the coastline from Candidasa towards Amlapura, a trail climbs up over the headland, with fine views over the rocky islets off the coast and a good swathe of the region. Beyond this headland there’s a long sweep of wide, exposed black-sand beach.
oTrekking CandidasaWALKING
(%0878 6145 2001; www.trekkingcandidasa.com; treks 250,000-350,000Rp)
The delightful Somat leads walks through the verdant rice fields and hills behind Candidasa. There are two routes: an easy trek through the rice fields to the village of Tenganan and a more difficult trek to a nearby waterfall. Prices include transport and drinks.
4Sleeping
Candidasa’s busy main drag is well supplied with seaside accommodation, with most options on the beach side of the highway. Tranquil pockets can be found east of the centre along Jl Pantai Indah and also at Mendira Beach, at the western entrance to the town. To get to the Mendira Beach hotels, turn off the main road at the school and huge banyan tree (there’s also a sign listing places to stay here).
Sleepy CrocHOSTEL$
(%0363-4381003, 0877 6256 3736; JI Raya Candidasa; dm 100,000Rp, breakfast 50,000Rp; paW)
Opened in 2018, this small backpacker-style hostel offers two dorms (one mixed, one female only); each sleeps eight and fronts onto the pool. Most action unfolds in the bar/restaurant fronting the street (mains 50,000Rp to 110,000Rp), and live music is staged there every Friday and Saturday night. Dorms have bunk beds, under-bed lockers, air-con and a bathroom.
oCandi Beach Resort and SpaRESORT$$$
(%0363-41234; www.candibeachbali.com; Jl Raya Mendira, Mendira Beach; r $US100-170, ste US$300-340, villa US$350-405; paWs) S
Stylish, environmentally conscious and lavishly endowed with facilities, this is undisputedly Candidasa’s best accommodation option. Rooms come in six categories – luxury ocean view suites and villas are particularly swish, but all are impressive. There’s a huge palm-fringed pool, a luxe spa (treatments 257,000-1,200,000Rp; hby appointment) and two restaurants (one Asian and Western, the other Indonesian; mains 63,000Rp to 183,000Rp). The resort’s private beach offers good snorkelling opportunities.
5Eating
Cafes and restaurants can be found on Jl Raya Candidasa. Though most suffer from traffic noise during the day, this usually abates after dark.
Refresh Family RestaurantHEALTH FOOD$
(%0812 3751 6001; www.facebook.com/refresh4family; JI Raya Candidasa; breakfast dishes 25,000-50,000, mains 30,000-50,000; h8am-10pm; Wvc)
Surfing the vegan, raw, organic and gluten-free culinary wave that has deluged Bali in recent years, this simple place has an exclusively vegetarian menu that is chock-full of favourites such as laksa, falafel, spicy wraps and nut curries. Breakfast choices include scrambled tofu, smoothie bowls and granola. The children’s play area is a popular feature.
oVincent’sINTERNATIONAL$$
(%0363-41368; www.vincentsbali.com; Jl Raya Candidasa; mains 75,000-295,000Rp; h11am-10pm; Wv)
One of east Bali’s better restaurants, Vincent’s has several distinct open-air rooms and a large rear garden. The comfy front bar area hosts live jazz on both Monday (high season only) and Thursday (all year), kicking off around 7pm. The menu offers sandwiches, salads, Balinese staples and various Western dishes – the ‘coconut texture’ dessert is justly popular.
8Getting There & Away
Candidasa is on the main road between Amlapura and south Bali, but there is no regular public transport. Perama (%0363-41114/5; Jl Raya Candidasa; h7am-7pm) has an office on the main road and runs shuttle services to destinations including Kuta (75,000Rp, three hours, three daily) via Ubud (75,000Rp, two hours) and Sanur (75,000Rp, 2½ hours); Padangbai (35,000Rp, 30 minutes, three daily); Tirta Gangga (75,000Rp, 45 minutes, one daily); and Amed (100,000Rp, 75 minutes, one daily). A pick up from your hotel will cost an extra 15,000Rp.
Amlapura
%0363 / Pop 15,960
The capital of Karangasem is the smallest of Bali’s district capitals and is notable for its multicultural population, with both Muslim and Chinese residents. This gives its night market a slightly different flavour to others on the island.
1Sights
Amlapura’s palaces – two in the town centre and one in Ujung, south of the city – are reminders of Karangasem’s grand period as a kingdom supported by Dutch colonial power in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
Puri Agung KarangasemPALACE
(http://purikarangasem.com; Jl Teuku Umar; adult/child under 5yr 10,000/5000Rp; h8am-5pm)
The main residence in this palace compound is known as the Maskerdam (Amsterdam) because it was built by the Dutch as a reward for the Karangasem kingdom’s acquiescence to Dutch rule. Looking considerably worse for wear these days (the Maskerdam has been uninhabited since 1966, when the last raja died), the compound also has an ornately decorated pavilion once used for royal tooth-filing ceremonies, and a large pond with a floating pavilion.
8Getting There & Away
The bus terminal recently closed, and public transport is pretty well non-existent.
Tirta Gangga
%0363 / Pop 7300
Tirta Gangga (Water of the Ganges) is the site of a taman (garden) built for the enjoyment of the last raja of Karangasem; it also boasts some of the best rice-terrace vistas in east Bali. Capping a sweep of green flowing down to the distant sea, it’s an excellent place to overnight if you are heading to or from Pura Lempuyang. Its also a popular base for those wanting to hike the surrounding terraced countryside, which ripples with coursing water and is dotted with temples.
1Sights
oPura LempuyangHINDU TEMPLE
(Gunung Lempuyang; donation requested, car/scooter parking 2000Rp/free; h24hr)
One of the holiest temple complexes on the island (it and Pura Besakih are the most important in east Bali), this group of seven temples has a spectacular setting on the steep sloped of Gunung Lempuyang, 10km northeast of Tirta Gangga.
From the car park, jeeps transport visitors up the steep road and to the security entrance for 20,000Rp per person; the same charge applies for the return trip. You’ll be asked for a donation at the entrance (10,000Rp per person is appropriate) and will need to pay another 10,000Rp to hire a sarong, unless you have your own.
oTaman Tirta GanggaGARDENS
(www.tirtagangga.nl; JI Abang-Amplapura; adult/child 30,000/15,000Rp, swimming 5000Rp, parking car/scooter 5000/1000Rp; h7am-7pm)
This 1.2 hectares water palace serves as a fascinating reminder of the old Bali. Built for the last raja of Karangasem in 1946, it was almost fully destroyed by the eruption of nearby Gunung Agung in 1963, but has subsequently been rebuilt. Admire the 11-tiered Nawa Sanga fountain and the ponds filled with huge koi and lotus blossoms, and jump between the round stepping stones in the water. It’s also possible to take a swim in the huge stone spring-water pool.
2Activities
Hiking
Hiking in the surrounding hills transports you far from your memories of frenetic south Bali. This far east corner of Bali is alive with coursing streams through rice fields and tropical forests that suddenly open to reveal vistas taking in Lombok, Nusa Penida and the lush green surrounding lands stretching down to the sea. The rice terraces around Tirta Gangga are some of the most beautiful in Bali. Back roads and walking paths take you to many picturesque traditional villages.
Sights that make a perfect excuse for a day trek are scattered in the surrounding hills. Among the possible treks is a six-hour loop to Tenganan village, plus shorter ones across the local hills, which include visits to remote temples and plenty of stunning vistas.
Guides for the more complex hikes are a good idea as they can help you plan routes and see things you simply would never find otherwise. Ask at any of the various accommodation options. Rates average about 100,000Rp per hour for one or two people.
DON’T MISS
PURA LEMPUYANG
One of the eight temple complexes in the Pura Kahyangan Padma Bhuwana group, which mark the island’s cardinal directions, Pura Lempuyang is perched on a hilltop on the side of 1058m Gunung Lempuyang, a twin of neighbouring 1175m Gunung Seraya. Together, the pair of mountains form the distinctive double peaks of basalt that loom over Amlapura to the south and Amed to the north. The complex, which comprises seven temples on the steep mountain slope, is one of the most important religious sites in east Bali.
The largest and most easily accessed temple here is Penataran Tempuyang, which has a wonderfully photogenic candi bentar (split temple gateway). The highest and most important temple is Pura Lempuyang Luhur, which also has a candi bentar. To visit all seven temples in the complex takes at least four hours and involves 2900 steps – only those who are fit should attempt it. Reaching Penataran Tempuyang is relatively easy, as it’s only a five-minute uphill walk from the security entrance. Many visitors queue for hours to have their chance to be photographed in front of the candi bentar here.
From Penataran Tempuyang, the second temple is 2km uphill and after that the calf-punishing stair climb begins; it’s 1700 steps from the second temple to Pura Lempuyang Luhur. Local guides congregate near the security check and charge 150,000/200,000/300,000/400,000Rp to the 1st/2nd/4th/top temple.
From the complex, the mottled green patchwork that is east Bali unfolds to the eye. The temple’s significance means there are always faithful Balinese in meditative contemplation; be warned that temples sometimes close to visitors during ceremonies.
4Sleeping
There are a number of accommodation options in and around the water palace; the best are on the ridge in Abadi.
oPondok Batur IndahHOMESTAY$
(%0363-22342, 0812 398 9060; pondokbaturindah@yahoo.com; Ababi; d 350,000-400,000Rp, tr 500,000Rp; pW)
Jaw-dropping is the only word to use when describing the rice-terrace views enjoyed from the terrace of this homestay on the ridge above Tirta Gangga. The five rooms are simple but clean, with fans and basic bathrooms. There’s an on-site restaurant serving home-style dishes (25,000Rp to 55,000Rp) and the water palace is a 10- to 15-minute walk away, down a steep set of steps.
Pondok Lembah DukuhGUESTHOUSE$
(%0813 3829 5142; dukuhstay@gmail.com; Ababi; r 250,000-270,000Rp, q 350,000Rp; pW)
On the edge of a ridge commanding spectacular views over the rice fields, this guesthouse offers four charming bungalows with individual terraces. Rooms are small and basic, but a stay here is a good chance to get close to local life. The water palace is a 10- to 15-minute walk away, via a steep set of steps.
8Getting There & Away
You’ll need your own transport to get here.
Amed & the Far East Coast
%0363 / Pop 3180
Stretching from Amed Village to Bali’s far eastern tip, this semi-arid coast has long drawn visitors with its succession of small, scalloped, grey-sand beaches (some more rocks than sand), relaxed atmosphere and excellent diving and snorkelling.
‘Amed’ is actually a misnomer for the area, as the coast is a series of seaside dusun (small villages) that starts with Amed Village in the north and then runs southeast to Aas. Amed Village, Jemeluk, Lipah and Selang are popular destinations for scuba divers, freedivers and snorkellers, and the entire coastline is dotted with resorts boasting yoga shalas, infinity pools and pavilion restaurants.
2Activities
Diving & Snorkelling
Snorkelling is excellent along the coast. Jemeluk is a protected area where you can admire live coral and plentiful fish within 100m of the beach. The coral gardens and colourful marine life at Selang are highlights. Snorkelling equipment rents for about 35,000Rp per day.
Diving is also good, with dive sites off Jemeluk, Lipah and Selang featuring coral slopes and drop-offs with soft and hard corals and abundant fish. Some are accessible from the beach, while others require a short boat ride. The Liberty wreck at Tulamben is only a 20-minute drive away.
Several dive operators have shown a commitment to the communities by organising regular beach clean-ups and educating locals on the need for conservation. All have similar prices for a long list of offerings (eg local two-dive packages start from around US$70).
Ocean PranaDIVING
(%WhatsApp 061 435 441 414; www.oceanprana.com; JI I Ketut Natih, Jemeluk; introductory course US$150, level 1-3 US$290-490)
Courses at this self-styled ‘freediving village’ are led by Yoram Zekri, a former world freediving vice-champion and French national multirecord holder. The village has its own practice pool, an organic cafe and excellent hostel-style accommodation. It also offers daily one-hour yoga classes at 6.30pm (100,000Rp).
ApneistaDIVING
(%0812 3826 7356; www.apneista.com; Green Leaf Cafe, JI I Ketut Natih, Jemeluk; 2-day courses US$200; h8.30am-10pm)
Based at Jemeluk’s laid-back Green Leaf Cafe (www.facebook.com/GreenLeafCafeAmed; breakfast dishes 36,000-60,000Rp, lunch mains 43,000-70,000Rp; h8am-6pm; v) S, this outfit offers freediving classes, courses and workshops; its freediving technique uses tools from yoga and meditation.
Hiking
Before the Gunung Agung volcano started rumbling, visitors regularly trekked on a few trails heading inland from the coast, up the slopes of Gunung Seraya (1175m) and to some little-visited villages. The countryside is sparsely vegetated and most trails are well defined, so guides aren’t usually required for shorter walks. Ask your hotel if it’s safe to walk (staff are sure to be monitoring volcano warnings) and if it’s OK to set off, allow a good three hours to get to the top of Seraya, starting from the rocky ridge just east of Jemeluk Bay. Sunrises from here are spectacular but to enjoy one you’ll need to climb in the dark; ask at your hotel about a guide to help you with this.
4Sleeping
The Amed region offers overnight options at most price points and for many tastes and interests. There are dive resorts, health and meditation retreats and lots of hotels and guesthouses offering their guests bungalows, pools and restaurants. The only accommodation type lacking is the luxury resort – you’ll need to head to Tulamben and the northeast Coast to find these. Jemeluk and Amed Village are the backpacker hubs.
oOcean Prana HostelHOSTEL$
(%0363-430 1587, WhatsApp 61 435 441 414; www.oceanprana.com/hostel; JI I Ketut Natih, Jemeluk; dm 150,000Rp; paWs)
Attached to the freediving school of the same name, this hostel has two new thatched bungalows in a large compound. Each has four bunk beds downstairs, two single beds upstairs, powerpoints, small lockers and an outdoor bathroom with hot water. There’s also a pool (often used for freediving training) and an organic cafe with table, beanbag and hammock seating. Breakfast costs 20,000Rp.
Galang Kangin BungalowsGUESTHOUSE$
(%0363-23480; JI Raya Amed, Jemeluk; r from 400,000Rp; paW)
Basic choice that offers cheap-ish accommodation and a warung. Its biggest drawcard is the beachfront location.
oMelasti Beach BungalowsHOMESTAY$$
(%0877 6018 8093; www.melastibeachamed.com; JI Melasti, Melasti Beach; r without bathroom 400,000Rp, ste 700,000-800,000Rp, bungalows 900,000-1,000,000Rp; paW)
Located at Melasti Beach, west of Amed Village, this stylish, good-value B&B is operated by American expat Missy, who is a genial and welcoming host. There are two bungalows, a luxurious suite and one room with an external bathroom on offer; the suite and bungalows have balconies with sea views. Breakfast is included, lunch and dinner can be arranged (mains 35,000Rp to 90,000Rp).
MeditasiRESORT$$
(%0363-430 1793; www.facebook.com/meditasibungalows; Aas; standard r 350,000-500,000Rp, luxury r 800,000-1,000,000Rp; paW)
Get off the grid at this chilled-out hideaway. Meditation, healing and yoga classes help you relax and the rooms are well situated for good swimming and snorkelling (lucky, because there’s no pool). By far the best bet are the luxury rooms, complete with private gardens, air-con and sea-facing balconies; some standard rooms are limited to fans and cold-water bathrooms.
Anda Amed ResortHOTEL$$$
(%0363-23498; www.andaamedresort.com; JI Raya Lipah, Banutan; villa from 1,600,000Rp; paWs)
This whitewashed hillside hotel complex contrasts with its lushly green grounds. The infinity pool is an ahhh-inducing classic of the genre and has sweeping views of the sea from well above the road. Well-maintained one- or two-bedroom villas are set on a hillside terrace and have sea views.
Santai HotelHOTEL$$$
(%0363-23487; www.santaibali.com; Banutan Beach; bungalow 1,300,000-2,800,000Rp; paWs)
The name of this lovely clifftop option means ‘relax’, and its facilities make this easy, with a bougainvillea-fringed pool, plenty of sun lounges, a spa, beach bar and cafe. There’s also a complimentary shuttle service to Lipah and Jemeluk beaches. Traditional thatched bungalows gathered from around the archipelago host 10 rooms with four-poster beds, open-air bathrooms and big balcony sofas.
5Eating
Almost every guesthouse and hotel has a restaurant or cafe, some are noteworthy. Amed Village and Jemeluk are the restaurant and cafe hotspots. Gusto restaurant offers complimentary transport to/from hotels along the coast for its diners, and Smiling Buddha Restaurant (%0828 372 2738; Meditasi Resort, Aas; mains 40,000-75,000Rp; h8am-10pm; v) does the same for those who sign up for one of its cooking classes.
oWarung AmshaBALINESE$
(%0819 1650 6063; Amed Beach; mains 25,000-65,000Rp; h11.30am-10pm; W)
Tables at this popular beach warung are arranged on the sand and are hotly sought after – it’s a good idea to make a booking or arrive early. The menu is resolutely local, featuring freshly caught fish (try the pepes ikan) as well as chicken, veggies and spices grown and raised nearby. Juices, cocktails, lassies and beer are on offer.
Blue Earth Village RestaurantINDONESIAN$
(%0821 4554 3699; www.blueearthvillage.com/restaurant; Jemeluk Lookout; tapas 35,000-40,000Rp, mains 45,000-70,000Rp; hnoon-10pm)
Spectacular views and a wide array of menu choices lure diners away from the action in Jemeluk’s main strip and up to this restaurant overlooking the blue waters of the bay. There are plenty of vegetarian and vegan options on offer, and the menu includes tapas, pasta, pizza, Thai noodles and Indonesian mains. It’s an excellent spot for a sundowner.
oGustoINTERNATIONAL$$
(%0813 3898 1394; www.facebook.com/Gusto-Amed-553633071346005; JI Raya Amed, Bunutan; pizzas 70,000-85,000Rp, pastas 65,000-85,000Rp, mains 55,000-120,000Rp; h2-10pm)
Don’t be put off by the unusual mix of cuisines on Gusto’s menu (Indonesian, Italian and Hungarian) – the chefs have mastered them all. Serving the best pizzas on the east coast, homemade pasta dishes, schnitzels and Indonesian seafood dishes, it is a particularly good choice in daylight hours, when the sea view charms. It’s small, so bookings are essential.
7Shopping
oPeduli Alam BaliCONCEPT STORE
(%0877 6156 2511; www.pedulialam.org; JI Raya Lipah, Lipah; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) S
A nonprofit outfit encouraging recycling and raising eco-consciousness in Amed, Peduli Alam (‘Protect Nature’) collects 50 tonnes of rubbish from this part of the island each month, much of which is then used to make the bags and other items that are sold in this shop. The project gives employment to four truck drivers and 14 local women.
8Getting There & Away
Most people drive here via the main highway from Amlapura and Culik. The spectacular road going all the way around the twin peaks from Aas to Ujung makes a good circle. You can arrange for a driver and car to/from south Bali and the airport for about 500,000Rp. Public transport is non-existent.
Tulamben
%0363 / Pop 8050
Tulamben’s big attraction sunk over 60 years ago. The wreck of the US cargo ship Liberty is among the best and most popular dive sites in Bali and has transformed what was a tiny fishing village into an entire town based on diving. Even snorkellers can easily swim out and enjoy exploring the wreck and the coral reefs that are strung along the coastline. Swimming is a different story – the shore is made up of rather beautiful, large washed stones that are difficult to walk on, so visitors tend to swim in hotel pools.
For non-aquatic delights, check out the morning market in Tulamben village, 1.5km north of the dive site.
2Activities
Diving & Snorkelling
The shipwreck USAT Liberty is about 50m directly offshore from Puri Madha Dive Resort; look for the schools of black snorkels. Swim straight out and you’ll see the stern rearing up from the depths, heavily encrusted with coral and swarming with dozens of species of colourful fish – and with scuba divers most of the day. The ship is more than 100m long, but the hull is broken into sections and it’s easy for divers to get inside. The bow is in quite good shape, the midship’s region is badly mangled and the stern is almost intact – the best parts are between 15m and 30m deep. You will want at least two dives to really explore the wreck.
Many divers commute to Tulamben from Amed or Lovina, and in busy times it can get quite crowded between 11am and 4pm, with 50 or more divers at a time around the wreck. Stay the night in Tulamben to get an early start. Most hotels have their own dive centre and some offer good-value dive and accommodation packages for guests.
Puri Madha Dive CentreDIVING
(%0363-22921; www.purimadhadiveresort.com; h6am-6.30pm)
Apnea BaliDIVING
(%WhatsApp 0822 3739 8854, WhatsApp 0822 6612 5814; www.apneabali.com; Jl Kubu-Abang; courses from 800,000Rp)
This polished operator on Tulamben’s main strip specialises in freediving courses and trips for all skill levels, including down to the Liberty wreck. Choose from an introductory half-day course (800,000Rp), a 2-day course (3,200,000Rp) and a 3-day course (4,600,000Rp).
4Sleeping
Tulamben is a quiet place and is essentially built around the wreck – its hotels, all with a cafe or restaurant and most with dive centres, are spread along a 4km stretch either side of the main road. You can choose between roadside (cheaper) options or those by the water (nicer). At high tide even the rocky shore vanishes.
SiddharthaRESORT$$$
(%0363-23034; www.siddhartha-bali.com; Kubu; s €69-188, d €146-240, villas €210-370; pas)
The oceanside pool and yoga pavilion at this swish German-owned resort are major drawcards, as is the extensive range of facilities and amenities (restaurant, bar, dive centre, gym, billiard and table-tennis tables, TV room, spa). Well-spaced rooms and villas are located in garden surrounds, and feature comfortable beds and outdoor bathrooms; villas have plunge pools.
THE WRECK OF THE LIBERTY
In January 1942, the small US Navy cargo ship USAT Liberty was torpedoed by a Japanese submarine near Lombok. Taken in tow, it was beached at Tulamben so that its cargo of rubber and railway parts could be saved. The Japanese invasion prevented this and the ship sat on the beach until the 1963 eruption of Gunung Agung broke it in two and left it just off the shoreline, much to the delight of divers ever since. (And just for the record, it was not a Liberty-class WWII freighter.)
8Getting There & Away
If you are driving to Lovina for the night, be sure to leave by about 3pm so you’ll still have a little light when you get there.
The car park in front of the Puri Madha Dive Resort is often full of vans dropping off organised groups of divers to the Liberty wreck, so you may have trouble sourcing a park there. There is paid parking near the Tauch Terminal Resort.