1. Richards, Land, Labour and Diet in Northern Rhodesia, p.73.
2. Davis, ‘English foreign trade, 1660–1700’, p.300.
3. Price, ‘The imperial economy, 1700–1776’, p.79.
4. Bowen, ‘British conceptions of global empire, 1756–83’, pp.4–5.
5. Duffy, ‘World-wide war and British expansion, 1793–1815’, p.184.
6. Bayly, The Birth of the Modern World 1780–1914, p.136.
7. Cosgrove et al., ‘Colonialism, international trade and the nation state’, p. 226.
1. Gardiner, Before the Mast, p.605; Hartman, The true preserver and restorer of health, p.59.
2. Gardiner, Before the Mast, p.604; Macdonald, Feeding Nelson’s Navy, p.112.
3. Marsden, Sealed by Time, pp.97–8.
4. Gardiner, Before the Mast, p.449.
5. Laughton, State Papers, pp.108–9.
6. Marsden, Sealed by Time, p.18.
7. Ibid., pp.19–20.
8. Ibid., pp.20, 10, 107.
9. Ibid., pp.112–14.
10. Gardiner, Before the Mast, p.568.
11. Ibid., pp.572–7.
12. Hutchinson et al., ‘The globalization of naval provisioning’.
13. Black, The British Seaborne Empire, pp.28, 56.
14. Fagan, Fish on Friday, pp.90–8.
15. Ibid., p.164.
16. Ibid., pp.183−4.
17. Ibid., p.230.
18. Ibid., p.195.
19. A Brief Discourse on Wine, p.39; Unwin, Wine and the Vine, pp.2–39.
20. Vickers, Farmers and Fishermen, p.86.
21. Fagan, Fish on Friday, p.xv.
22. Boyle, Toward the Setting Sun, pp.64–7, 178–9; Kurlansky, Cod, p.27; Andrews, Trade, Plunder and Settlement, p.47.
23. Kurlansky, Cod, p.27; Pope, The Many Landfalls of John Cabot, pp.13–16.
24. Pope, The Many Landfalls of John Cabot, p.22.
25. Kurlansky, Cod, pp.48–9.
26. Pope, The Many Landfalls of John Cabot, p.41.
27. Ibid., pp.41–2.
28. Fagan, Fish on Friday, p.229.
29. Ibid.
30. Kurlansky, Cod, p.51.
31. Hartman, The true preserver and restorer of health, p.59.
32. Fagan, Fish on Friday, p.230; Marsden, Sealed by Time, pp.1, 15.
33. Knighton and Loades, The Anthony Roll of Henry VIII’s Navy.
34. Fagan, Fish on Friday, p.233.
35. Fury, Tides in the Affairs of Men, p.143.
36. Laughton, State Papers, pp.109–10.
37. Falls, Elizabeth’s Irish Wars, p.262.
38. McGurk, The Elizabethan Conquest of Ireland, p.205.
39. Innis, The Cod Fisheries, pp.31–2.
40. The French continued to dominate offshore Newfoundland fishing. They preferred a wet salt cure for their cod and this meant that they did not need to come onto the land to dry their fish. Pope, Fish into Wine, p.17.
41. Ibid.
42. Ibid., p.144.
43. Poynter, The Journal of James Yonge, p.56.
44. Mason, A briefe discourse of the Nevv found-land.
45. Poynter, The Journal of James Yonge, p.57.
46. Cod livers were used to make ‘train oil’ to lubricate heavy machinery referred to as trains.
47. Poynter, The Journal of James Yonge, pp.56–7.
48. Ibid., pp.57–8.
49. Andrews, Trade, Plunder and Settlement, pp.6–9.
50. Williamson, The Observations of Sir Richard Hawkins, p.104.
51. Zahedieh, The Capital and the Colonies, p.192.
52. Fagan, Fish on Friday, pp.239, 244.
53. Ibid., p.240.
54. Black, The British Seaborne Empire, pp.28, 59.
55. In the 1680s, the sailor Edward Barlow recorded in his diary meeting various ships from Newfoundland laden with ‘pore Jack’, or dry salted cod: Lubbock, Barlow’s Journal of His Life at Sea, I, p.268.
56. Poynter, The Journal of James Yonge, p.70.
57. Pope, Fish into Wine, p.116.
58. Innis, The Cod Fisheries, p.52.
59. Zahedieh, The Capital and the Colonies, p.184.
60. Collins, Salt and Fishery, p.95; Andrews, Trade, Plunder and Settlement, pp.3–4.
61. Davis, The Rise of the English Shipping Industry, p.389.
62. Andrews, Trade, Plunder and Settlement, p.9.
1. Dunton, Teague Land or A Merry Ramble to the Wild Irish, pp.17–20.
2. Ibid., p.16.
3. Ibid., p.18.
4. Glasse, The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy, pp.20–2.
5. Dunton, Teague Land or A Merry Ramble to the Wild Irish, p.17.
6. Glasse, The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy, p.298.
7. Pastore, ‘The collapse of the Beothuk world’, p.55.
8. Gillespie, ‘Plantations in early modern Ireland’, p.43.
9. Moryson, An Itinerary, p.244.
10. Foster, Modern Ireland 1600–1972, p.26.
11. Montaño, The Roots of English Colonialism in Ireland, pp.67–8, 79.
12. Gerald of Wales, The History and Topography of Ireland, pp.101–2.
13. Moryson, An Itinerary, p.261.
14. Shaw, ‘Eaters of flesh, drinkers of milk’, pp.22, 29; Garnsey, Food and Society in Classical Antiquity, pp.65–7.
15. Montaño, The Roots of English Colonialism in Ireland, pp.26–7, 44–7.
16. Derricke, The Image of Irelande with a discoureie of vvoodkarne; Foster, Modern Ireland 1600–1972, p.18.
17. Moryson, An Itinerary, pp.161–2; MacRae, God Speed the Plough, pp.13–19.
18. Dunton, Teague Land or A Merry Ramble to the Wild Irish, pp.21–2.
19. Moryson, An Itinerary, p.263.
20. Montaño, The Roots of English Colonialism in Ireland, p.9.
21. Pope, The Many Landfalls of John Cabot, p.165.
22. Montaño, The Roots of English Colonialism in Ireland, p.18.
23. Metcalfe, Ideologies of the Raj, pp.2–3.
24. MacRae, God Speed the Plough, p.8.
25. Clarkson and Crawford, Feast and Famine, p.13.
26. Montaño, The Roots of English Colonialism in Ireland, p.18.
27. Prominent among this group were Sir Thomas Smith, Secretary of State under Edward VI, who led a failed attempt under Elizabeth to establish an English plantation in Ulster in the 1570s; Lord Burghley, Sir William Cecil, Secretary of State and chief adviser to Elizabeth I, who drew up the plans for the Munster plantation in the 1580s; and Sir Henry Sidney, who served three times as Lord Deputy of Ireland under Elizabeth and planned and implemented a brutal and concerted military programme to bring Ireland under the control of the English crown: Montaño, The Roots of English Colonialism in Ireland, p.59; Bradshaw, ‘The Elizabethans and the Irish’, p.41.
28. Gaskill, Between Two Worlds, p.xvi.
29. Cited by Clarkson and Crawford, Feast and Famine, p.136.
30. This was about one fifteenth of Munster.
31. Montaño, The Roots of English Colonialism in Ireland, pp.387–8.
32. Foster, Modern Ireland 1600–1972, p.67; Canny, Kingdom and Colony, pp.50–1.
33. A Direction for the plantation in Ulster (1610), cited by Canny, ‘Migration and opportunity’, p.31; Canny, ‘The origins of empire’, pp.6–8.
34. Horning, ‘On the banks of the Bann’, p.97.
35. Ibid.
36. Gillespie, Seventeenth-Century Ireland, p.79.
37. Cullen, Economy, Trade and Irish Merchants at Home and Abroad, 1600–1988, p.29.
38. Lenihan, Consolidating Conquest, pp.231–3.
39. Cullen, Economy, Trade and Irish Merchants at Home and Abroad, 1600–1988, p.29.
40. Flavin, ‘Consumption and material culture in sixteenth-century Ireland’, pp.1147–8.
41. Ibid., p.1170.
42. Canny, ‘Migration and opportunity’, pp.9–11.
43. TCD, 1641 Depositions projects, online transcript January 1970, http://1641.tcd.ie/deposition.php?depID<?php echo 821025r011? (accessed 6 April 2016).
44. Ohlmeyer, ‘Anatomy of Plantation’, p.56.
45. Mac Cuarta, ‘The plantation of Leitrim, 1620−41’, p.317.
46. Nash, ‘Irish Atlantic trade in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries’, p.343; Gillespie, Seventeenth-Century Ireland, p.79.
47. If the disturbingly brutal Grenville was typical of the English planters, this would account for the unpopularity of the plantation among the Irish. His party trick when carousing with Spanish captains was to crush wine glasses between his teeth until blood ran from his mouth.
48. Grant, North Devon Pottery, p.105.
49. Canny, ‘Migration and opportunity’, p.13.
50. Flavin, ‘Consumption and material culture in sixteenth-century Ireland’, p.1166.
51. Lenman, England’s Colonial Wars 1550–1688, pp.1–2.
52. TCD, 1641 Depositions projects, online transcript January 1970, http://1641.tcd.ie/deposition.php?depID<?php echo 821025r011? (accessed 6 April 2016).
53. Parker, Global Crisis, p.24.
54. Ibid., p.25.
55. Barnard, Improving Ireland?, p.19.
56. Fox, ‘Sir William Petty’, p.6 (accessed 5 April 2016); Foster, Modern Ireland 1600–1972, p.14.
57. Barnard, ‘Planters and policies in Cromwellian Ireland’, p.32.
58. Schaffer, ‘The earth’s fertility as a social fact in early modern England’, p.126; MacRae, God Speed the Plough, pp.159–62; Zahedieh, The Capital and the Colonies, pp.185–6.
59. Woodward, ‘The Anglo-Irish livestock trade of the seventeenth century’, p.490.
60. Ibid., pp.490–1, 497.
61. Pope, Fish into Wine, p.3.
62. See Pastore, ‘The collapse of the Beothuk world’, pp.52–67.
63. Grant, North Devon Pottery, pp.116–19. About three quarters of Irish exports went to England in the 1670s. The rest went to mainland France and the English colonies in the Americas.
64. Gillespie, Seventeenth-Century Ireland, p.249.
65. Woodward, ‘A comparative study of the Irish and Scottish livestock trades in the seventeenth century’, pp.150–4.
66. Mannion, ‘Victualling a fishery’, p.29.
67. Truxes, Irish-American Trade, 1660–1783, pp.158–9; Schaw, Journal of a Lady of Quality, p.80.
68. Mandelblatt, ‘A transatlantic commodity’, p. 20.
69. Truxes, Irish-American Trade, p.152.
70. Lenihan, Consolidating Conquest, pp.227–9.
71. Canny, Kingdom and Colony, p.132.
1. www.geni.com/people/Joseph-Holloway/6000000000688916384 (accessed 22 November 2013).
2. Rutman, Husbandmen of Plymouth, pp.45–6.
3. Russell, Long, Deep Furrow, p.93.
4. Rutman, Husbandmen of Plymouth, pp.66–9.
5. McWilliams, A Revolution in Eating, p.73.
6. Rutman, Husbandmen of Plymouth, pp.45–6.
7. Davidson, The Oxford Companion to Food, p.785.
8. Stavely and Fitzgerald, America’s Founding Food, pp.40–1.
9. www.geni.com/people/Joseph-Holloway/6000000000688916384 (accessed 22 November, 2013).
10. See Gaskill, Between Two Worlds, pp.3–8.
11. Horn, ‘Tobacco colonies’, pp.173–4; Cronon, Changes in the Land, p.20.
12. Lacombe, ‘“A continuall and dayly table for Gentlemen of Fashion”’, pp.669–97.
13. Horn, ‘Tobacco colonies’, p.179; Anderson, ‘New England in the seventeenth century’, p.196.
14. Taylor, American Colonies, p.169.
15. Ibid., p.164.
16. Clap, Relating some of God’s Remarkable Providence in Bringing Him into New England, p.6.
17. Cressy, Coming Over, pp.96–8.
18. Kulikoff, The Agrarian Origins of American Capitalism, pp.190–2.
19. Taylor, American Colonies, pp.166–7; Cressy, Coming Over, pp.86–99.
20. MacRae, God Speed the Plough, p.165.
21. James Harrington, The Oceana: constitution.org/jh/oceana (accessed 20 January 2017); Schaffer, ‘The earth’s fertility as a social fact in early modern England’, p.128.
22. www.geni.com/projects/Early-Families-of-Taunton-Massachusetts/3745 (accessed 22 November 2013).
23. Anderson, ‘New England in the seventeenth century’, pp.195–7.
24. Cited by Stavely and Fitzgerald, America’s Founding Food, p.12; see also Cronon, Changes in the Land, pp.56–7; Kulikoff, The Agrarian Origins of American Capitalism, p.130.
25. Canny, ‘The origins of empire’, p.6; Zahedieh, The Capital and the Colonies, p.185.
26. Pluymers, ‘Taming the wilderness in sixteenth- and seventeenth-century Ireland and Virginia’, p.611.
27. Cronon, Changes in the Land, pp.43–4; McMahon, ‘A comfortable subsistence’, p.32.
28. Clap, Relating some of God’s Remarkable Providence in Bringing Him into New England, p.7.
29. Ibid., p.14; Stavely and Fitzgerald, America’s Founding Food, pp.88–9.
30. Cronon, Changes in the Land, pp.55–6.
31. Vickers, Farmers and Fishermen, pp.44–5.
32. Rutman, Husbandmen of Plymouth, pp.45–6.
33. Stavely and Fitzgerald, America’s Founding Food, pp.12–19.
34. Clap, Relating some of God’s Remarkable Providence in Bringing Him into New England, p.7.
35. Stavely and Fitzgerald, America’s Founding Food, pp.31–2.
36. Ibid., p.182.
37. Horsman, Feast or Famine, p.16.
38. Emerson, The New England Cookery, pp.47, 59.
39. Rutman, Husbandmen of Plymouth, p.70.
40. Ogborn, Global Lives, p.63.
41. Anderson, Creatures of Empire, pp.6–8.
42. Valenze, Milk, p.143.
43. Rutman, Husbandmen of Plymouth, pp.66–9.
44. Mittelberger, Journey to Pennsylvania, p.49.
45. Shammas, The Pre-industrial Consumer in England and America, p.5.
46. Candee, ‘Merchant and millwright’, p.132; Russell, Long, Deep Furrow, p.91.
47. Kulikoff, The Agrarian Origins of American Capitalism, p.35.
48. McWilliams, A Revolution in Eating, pp.63–5.
49. Zahedieh, The Capital and the Colonies, p.275.
50. Hudgins, ‘The “necessary calls of humanity and decency”’, p.180.
51. Shammas, The Pre-industrial Consumer in England and America, pp.169, 181.
52. Carson, ‘Consumption’, pp.357–8.
53. Truxes, Irish-American Trade, p.148.
54. Ibid.
55. Vickers, Farmers and Fishermen, p.96.
56. Truxes, Irish-American Trade, p.148.
57. Taylor, American Colonies, p.177.
58. Parker, The Sugar Barons, p.125.
59. Stavely and Fitzgerald, America’s Founding Food, p.124.
60. Kulikoff, The Agrarian Origins of American Capitalism, p.130.
61. McWilliams, A Revolution in Eating, p.16.
62. Drayton, ‘The collaboration of labour’, p.176.
1. Ligon, A True and Exact History of the Island of Barbados, p.88.
2. Ibid.
3. Ibid.
4. Sloane, A Voyage to the Islands Madera, Barbados, Nieves, St Christophers and Jamaica, Vol. I, p.xxix.
5. Ligon, A True and Exact History of the Island of Barbados, p.89.
6. Ibid., p.40.
7. Ibid., p.67.
8. Ibid., pp.67, 156.
9. Gragg, Englishmen Transplanted, pp.19–20.
10. Zahedieh, The Capital and the Colonies, p.205.
11. Gragg, Englishmen Transplanted, pp.19–20; Parker, The Sugar Barons, pp.14–17
12. Ligon, A True and Exact History of the Island of Barbados, pp.67, 106.
13. Ward, ‘A trip to Jamaica’, p.89.
14. Mackie, Life and Food in the Caribbean, pp.34–5.
15. Paton, Down the Islands, pp.163–4.
16. Ligon, A True and Exact History of the Island of Barbados, pp.13–14.
17. Gragg, ‘“To procure negroes”’, p.72.
18. Parker, The Sugar Barons, p.17.
19. Curtin, The Rise and Fall of the Plantation Complex, pp.3–5, 18–26.
20. Dalby, An Historical Account of the Rise and Growth of the West-India Collonies, pp.13–14.
21. Ligon, A True and Exact History of the Island of Barbados, p.147.
22. Ibid., p.148.
23. Ibid., p.160.
24. Craton, ‘Reluctant creoles’, p.331.
25. Ligon, A True and Exact History of the Island of Barbados, p.159.
26. Ibid., p.161.
27. Ibid., pp.161–3.
28. Mintz, Sweetness and Power, pp.47–55.
29. Bruce, Three Journals of Stuart Times, p.115.
30. Taylor, American Colonies, p.120.
31. Kulikoff, The Agrarian Origins of American Capitalism, pp.190–2.
32. Parker, Global Crisis, p.24; Beckles, ‘The “hub of Empire”’, p.223.
33. Beckles, ‘The “hub of Empire”’, p.230.
34. Ibid., p.230.
35. Ibid., p.231; Ligon, A True and Exact History of the Island of Barbados, p.23.
36. Beckles, ‘“Black men in white skins”’, p.10.
37. Gragg, ‘“To procure negroes”’, pp.68, 70. McCusker and Menard argue that planters used the money they made from tobacco and cotton to buy slaves, and that they were already buying them before sugar was introduced to the island. But this is contradicted by Gragg, who has looked at the ships bringing slaves to Barbados and times their arrival with that of sugar: McCusker and Menard, ‘The sugar industry in the seventeenth century’.
38. Eltis and Richardson, Atlas of the Transatlantic Slave Trade, p.3; Beckles, ‘The “hub of Empire”’, p.232.
39. Gragg, ‘“To procure negroes”’, p.65.
40. Amussen, Caribbean Exchanges, p.31.
41. Beckles, ‘The “hub of Empire”’, p.227; Thompson, ‘Henry Drax’s instructions on the management of a seventeenth-century Barbadian sugar plantation’, p.575.
42. Ligon, A True and Exact History of the Island of Barbados, p.94.
43. Ibid., p.86.
44. Ibid., pp.78, 189.
45. Parker, The Sugar Barons, p.268.
46. Ligon, A True and Exact History of the Island of Barbados, pp.160–3.
47. Ibid., pp.66–8; Parker, The Sugar Barons, p.13.
48. Thompson, ‘Henry Drax’s instructions on the management of a seventeenth-century Barbadian sugar plantation’, pp.571–3.
49. Gragg, ‘A Puritan in the West Indies’, p.775; Dunn, Sugar and Slaves, p.98.
50. Parker, The Sugar Barons, p.65.
51. Zahedieh, The Capital and the Colonies, p.219.
52. Walvin, Fruits of Empire, p.120.
53. Thompson, ‘Henry Drax’s instructions on the management of a seventeenth-century Barbadian sugar plantation’, pp.571–3.
54. Walvin, Fruits of Empire, p.178; Dalby, An Historical Account of the Rise and Growth of the West-India Collonies, pp.10–11.
55. Ibid., p.11.
56. Nash, ‘Irish Atlantic trade in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries’, p.330; Zahedieh, The Capital and the Colonies, p.263.
57. Ligon, A True and Exact History of the Island of Barbados, p.184.
58. Dalby, An Historical Account of the Rise and Growth of the West-India Collonies, pp.10–11; Walvin, Fruits of Empire, p.178.
59. O’Brien and Engerman, ‘Exports and the growth of the British economy from the Glorious Revolution to the Peace of Amiens’, p.182; Zacek, ‘Rituals of rulership’, p.117; Gragg, Englishmen Transplanted, p.107.
60. O’Brien and Engerman, ‘Exports and the growth of the British economy from the Glorious Revolution to the Peace of Amiens’, p.182; Price, ‘The imperial economy, 1700–1776’, p.86.
61. O’Brien, ‘Inseparable connections’, p.54; Mintz, ‘Time, sugar and sweetness’, p.363; Black, The British Seaborne Empire, p.60; Zahedieh, The Capital and the Colonies, p.10.
62. Davis, ‘English foreign trade, 1660–1700’, p.127; O’Brien and Engerman, ‘Exports and the growth of the British economy from the Glorious Revolution to the Peace of Amiens’, p.182; Price, ‘The imperial economy, 1700–1776’, p.86.
63. Mintz, Sweetness and Power, p.135.
64. Hall, ‘Culinary spaces, colonial spaces’, p.175.
65. Mintz, Sweetness and Power, pp.81, 221.
66. Ogborn, Global Lives, p.119; Brenner, Merchants and Revolution, pp.111–14, 669.
67. Brenner, Merchants and Revolution, pp.693, 706–8; Parker, The Sugar Barons, p.89.
68. Beckles, ‘The “hub of Empire”’, p.236.
69. Zahedieh, The Capital and the Colonies, pp.215–16.
70. Cited in ibid., p.2.
71. Ibid., pp.3, 5.
1. Ogborn, Global Lives, pp.126–8.
2. Wright, The World and a Very Small Place in Africa, p.105.
3. Cultru, Premier Voyage du Sieur de la Courbe Fait à la Coste d’Afrique en 1685, pp.195–6.
4. Ogborn, Global Lives, pp.126–7.
5. Cultru, Premier Voyage du Sieur de la Courbe Fait à la Coste d’Afrique en 1685, pp.197–8.
6. McCann, Stirring the Pot, p.115.
7. Cultru, Premier Voyage du Sieur de la Courbe Fait à la Coste d’Afrique en 1685, p.196. This elaborate tromple I’oiel dish known as Ashanti chicken became ‘one of the classic dishes of West African settler cuisine’. See Sellick, The Imperial African Cookery Book, pp.176–7.
8. Ibid.
9. Wright, The World and a Very Small Place in Africa, p.80.
10. Cultru, Premier Voyage du Sieur de la Courbe Fait à la Coste d’Afrique en 1685, pp.196–7.
11. Ibid., p.199.
12. Wright, The World and a Very Small Place in Africa, pp.28–9; Thornton, Africa and the Africans in the Making of the Atlantic World, 1400–1800, pp.28–9.
13. Parker, Global Interactions in the Early Modern Age, 1400–1800, p.229.
14. Corse, ‘Introduction’, p.7; Brooks, ‘A Nhara of the Guinea-Bissau region’, pp.305–8.
15. Cultru, Premier Voyage du Sieur de la Courbe Fait à la Coste d’Afrique en 1685, pp.195–6; Brooks, Eurafricans in Western Africa, p.151.
16. Brooks, Eurafricans in Western Africa, pp.128–9.
17. Brooks, ‘The signares of Saint-Louis and Gorée’, pp.22–6; Brooks, ‘A Nhara of the Guinea-Bissau region’, p.296.
18. Wright, The World and a Very Small Place in Africa, pp.74–6, 80.
19. Cited by Searing, West African Slavery and Atlantic Commerce, pp.98–9.
20. Ogborn, Global Lives, pp.127–8.
21. Thornton, Africa and the Africans in the Making of the Atlantic World, 1400–1800, pp.90, 93; Kea, Settlements, Trade and Polities in the Seventeenth-Century Gold Coast, p.49.
22. Searing, West African Slavery and Atlantic Commerce, p.50.
23. Thomas, The Slave Trade, p.792.
24. Searing, West African Slavery and Atlantic Commerce, p.46.
25. Richards, The Unending Frontier, p.81; Brooks, Landlords and Strangers, p.319; Brooks, Eurafricans in Western Africa, p.103.
26. Searing, West African Slavery and Atlantic Commerce, p.81.
27. Ibid.
28. Thornton, ‘Sexual demography’, pp.39–40.
29. See Meillassoux, ‘Female slavery’, pp.49–66, and Klein, ‘Women in slavery in the Western Sudan’, pp.67–92.
30. Searing, West African Slavery and Atlantic Commerce, p.54.
31. Ibid., p.28.
32. Ibid., p.56.
33. Wright, The World and a Very Small Place in Africa, p.80.
34. Searing, West African Slavery and Atlantic Commerce, pp.51, 87.
35. Ibid., p.79.
36. See Alpern, ‘The European introduction of crops into West Africa in precolonial times’.
37. Ibid., p.68.
38. Carney and Rosomoff, In the Shadow of Slavery, pp.55–7.
39. Searing, West African Slavery and Atlantic Commerce, p.80; McCann, Maize and Grace, p.91.
40. McCann, Maize and Grace, pp.31–4.
41. Alpern, ‘Exotic plants of western Africa’, p.68.
42. O’Connor, ‘Beyond “exotic groceries”’, p.231.
43. Harms, ‘Sustaining the system’, p.100.
44. La Fleur, Fusion Foodways of Africa’s Gold Coast in the Atlantic Era, p.155.
45. Searing, West African Slavery and Atlantic Commerce, p.79.
46. O’Connor, ‘Beyond “exotic groceries”’, p.232.
47. Harms, ‘Sustaining the system’, pp.95–110.
48. La Fleur, Fusion Foodways of Africa’s Gold Coast in the Atlantic Era, pp.123–4.
49. Carney and Rosomoff, In the Shadow of Slavery, p.57.
50. Kea, Settlements, Trade and Polities in the Seventeenth-Century Gold Coast, p.12.
51. La Fleur, Fusion Foodways of Africa’s Gold Coast in the Atlantic Era, pp.148–52.
1. Latham and Matthews, The Diary of Samuel Pepys, VIII, p.211.
2. Ibid.
3. Scully, La Varenne’s Cookery, p.98.
4. From Mr La Varenne, Kitchen Clerk of the Marquis of Uxelles, The French Cook: Instructing on the Manner of Preparing and Seasoning All Sorts of Lean and Meat-Day Foods, Legumes, Pastries etc. (Pierre David, Paris, 1652); reproduced in Scully, La Varenne’s Cookery, pp.136–7, 158.
5. Pinkard, A Revolution in Taste, pp.86–94.
6. Latham and Matthews, The Diary of Samuel Pepys, I, p.78.
7. Scully, La Varenne’s Cookery, p.11.
8. Pinkard, A Revolution in Taste, p.110.
9. Scully, La Varenne’s Cookery, p.95.
10. Ibid., pp.91, 158.
11. Pinkard, A Revolution in Taste, p.46; Latham and Matthews, The Diary of Samuel Pepys, IV, p.400.
12. Latham and Matthews, The Diary of Samuel Pepys, IV, p.95.
13. For example, ibid., IV, p.341; VI, p.2.
14. Lehmann, The British Housewife, p.46.
15. Latham and Matthews, The Diary of Samuel Pepys, IX, pp.423–4.
16. Ibid., VI, p.300.
17. Ibid., VI, p.240; Chaudhuri, The Trading World of Asia and the English East India Company 1660–1760, p.321.
18. Chaudhuri, The Trading World of Asia and the English East India Company 1660–1760, p. 321.
19. Keay, The Spice Route, p.170.
20. Ibid., p.225.
21. McFadden, Pepper, p.17.
22. Pinkard, A Revolution in Taste, p.73.
23. Atkins, ‘Vinegar and sugar’, p.44.
24. Latham and Matthews, The Diary of Samuel Pepys, IX, p.261.
25. Peterson, Acquired Taste, pp.171–2.
26. Laudan, ‘The birth of the modern diet’, p.66.
27. Pinkard, A Revolution in Taste, pp.70–1.
28. Scully, La Varenne’s Cookery, p.82; Peterson, Acquired Taste, p.40.
29. Pinkard, A Revolution in Taste, p.11.
30. Peterson, Acquired Taste, p.189.
31. Ibid., pp.186–9.
32. Ibid., pp.199, 201; Lawson, The East India Company, p.25; Pinkard, A Revolution in Taste, p.712.
33. Chaudhuri, The Trading World of Asia and the English East India Company 1660–1760, p.9.
34. Parker, Global Interactions in the Early Modern Age, 1400–1800, p.72.
35. Zahedieh, The Capital and the Colonies, pp.27–8.
36. Erikson, Between Monopoly and Free Trade, p.134.
37. Prakash, ‘The English East India Company and India’, pp.7–8.
38. Erikson, Between Monopoly and Free Trade, pp.12–25.
39. Riello, Cotton, pp.113–14.
40. Ibid.
41. Ibid., p.126.
42. Chaudhuri, The Trading World of Asia and the English East India Company 1660–1760, pp.97, 313; Erikson, Between Monopoly and Free Trade, pp.51–2.
43. Wills, ‘European consumption and Asian production in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries’, p.136.
44. Riello, Cotton, p.130.
45. Latham and Matthews, The Diary of Samuel Pepys, I, p.178; III, p.226; IV, p.5; V, pp.64, 77, 105, 139, 329.
46. Ibid., I, p. 253; Burnett, Plenty and Want, p.61.
47. Latham and Matthews, The Diary of Samuel Pepys, VIII, p.302.
48. Smith, ‘Complications of the commonplace’, pp.263–4.
49. Stobart, Sugar and Spice, p.237; Vickery, ‘Women and the world of goods’, p.289.
50. Smith, Consumption and the Making of Respectability, 1600–1800, pp.270–1.
51. Mintz, Sweetness and Power, p.67; Zahedieh, The Capital and the Colonies, pp.221, 223.
52. Black, The British Seaborne Empire, p.5.
53. Ogborn, Global Lives, p.119; Brenner, Merchants and Revolution, pp.111–14, 669.
54. Bayly, The Birth of the Modern World 1780–1914, p.136.
55. Davis, ‘English foreign trade, 1660–1700’, p.139; Zacek, Settler Society in the Leeward Islands, 1670–1776, p.118.
56. Richardson, ‘The slave trade, sugar and British economic growth, 1748–1776’, pp.126–30.
57. Chaudhuri, The Trading World of Asia and the English East India Company 1660–1760, p.9.
1. In Britain molasses was known as treacle. There was black treacle and the more refined, and more popular, sweeter golden syrup.
2. Weatherill, The Account Book of Richard Latham 1724–1767, pp.69–70.
3. Misson, Memoirs and Observations in His Travels over England, p.315; Muldrew, Food, Energy and the Creation of Industriousness, p.42.
4. Weatherill, The Account Book of Richard Latham 1724–1767, p.70.
5. Thirsk, Food in Early Modern England, p.9.
6. Weatherill, The Account Book of Richard Latham 1724–1767, pp.xviii.
7. Zylberberg, ‘Fuel prices, regional diets and cooking habits in the English industrial revolution (1750–1830)’, p.118.
8. Glasse, The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy, pp.111, 22.
9. Weatherill, The Account Book of Richard Latham 1724–1767, p.xix.
10. Muldrew, Food, Energy and the Creation of Industriousness, pp.241–6.
11. Weatherill, The Account Book of Richard Latham 1724–1767, pp.40–2.
12. Ashton, An Economic History of England, pp.215–16.
13. Muldrew, Food, Energy and the Creation of Industriousness, pp.193–207; Pope, Fish into Wine, p.353; Shammas, The Pre-industrial Consumer in England and America, pp.169, 181; McKendrick et al., The Birth of a Consumer Society, p.23.
14. Weatherill, The Account Book of Richard Latham 1724–1767, pp.xxvii, 3–6.
15. Ibid., p.xxv.
16. Riello, Cotton, pp.123–6.
17. Weatherill, The Account Book of Richard Latham 1724–1767, pp.66–9.
18. Bickham, ‘Eating the empire’, pp.76–7.
19. Mintz, Sweetness and Power, p.67.
20. Muldrew, Food, Energy and the Creation of Industriousness, pp.51–7.
21. Cox, ‘“Beggary of the nation”’; Cox and Dannehl, Perceptions of Retailing in Early Modern England; Stobart, ‘Gentlemen and shopkeepers’; Stobart, Sugar and Spice; Mui and Mui, Shops and Shopkeeping in Eighteenth-Century England.
22. Mui and Mui, Shops and Shopkeeping in Eighteenth-Century England, p.47.
23. Ibid., pp.211–16.
24. Ibid., p.148; Shammas, The Pre-industrial Consumer in England and America, p.260; Zahedieh, The Capital and the Colonies, p.235.
25. Mui and Mui, Shops and Shopkeeping in Eighteenth-Century England, pp.47, 211–16.
26. Ibid., pp.204–5.
27. Stobart, Sugar and Spice, p.144.
28. Mui and Mui, Shops and Shopkeeping in Eighteenth-Century England, pp.218–19.
29. Mintz, Sweetness and Power, p.117.
30. Shammas, The Pre-industrial Consumer in England and America, p.83; Lawson, ‘Tea, vice and the English state’, p.xiv.
31. Erikson, Between Monopoly and Free Trade, p.140; Burnett, Liquid Pleasures, p.53.
32. Cited by Mintz, Sweetness and Power, p.172.
33. Ibid.
34. Bickham, ‘Eating the empire’, pp.82–5.
35. Ibid., pp.86–9.
36. Lenman, England’s Colonial Wars 1550–1688, pp.160–3.
37. Black, The British Seaborne Empire, p.11; Metcalfe, Ideologies of the Raj, p.4.
38. Bickham, ‘Eating the empire’, p.72.
39. Datta, ‘The commercial economy of eastern India under early British rule’, pp.341–2; Erikson, Between Monopoly and Free Trade, pp.41–2.
40. Bowen, ‘British conceptions of global empire, 1756–83’, p.10.
41. Bickham, ‘Eating the empire’, pp.89–92.
42. Mui and Mui, Shops and Shopkeeping in Eighteenth-Century England, pp.204–5.
43. Muldrew, Food, Energy and the Creation of Industriousness, pp.80–2.
44. Burnett, Liquid Pleasures, p.53.
45. Shammas, The Pre-industrial Consumer in England and America, p.147.
46. Brinley, ‘Feeding England during the industrial revolution’, p.333.
47. Zylberberg, ‘Fuel prices, regional diets and cooking habits in the English industrial revolution (1750–1830)’, p.109.
48. Muldrew, Food, Energy and the Creation of Industriousness, p.80.
49. Ibid., pp.81–2.
50. Zylberberg, ‘Fuel prices, regional diets and cooking habits in the English industrial revolution (1750–1830)’, p.106.
51. Coal did not replace wood in the south as transport costs increased the price to the point where it was beyond the reach of labourers’ wages.
52. Walvin, Fruits of Empire, p.120; Muldrew, Food, Energy and the Creation of Industriousness, pp.101–2.
53. Eden, The State of the Poor, pp.264–5, 280.
54. Cited by Burnett, Liquid Pleasures, p.57.
55. Muldrew, Food, Energy and the Creation of Industriousness, p.255.
56. Shammas, The Pre-industrial Consumer in England and America, pp.147, 299.
57. Cited by Burnett, Plenty and Want, p.150.
1. Henson, The Life of Josiah Henson, p.85.
2. Ball, Fifty Years in Chains; Crader, ‘The zooarchaeology of the storehouse and the dry well at Monticello’; Crader, ‘Slave diet at Monticello’; Reitz et al., ‘Archaeological evidence for subsistence on coastal plantations’; Samford, ‘The archaeology of African-American slavery and material culture’; Singleton, ‘Introduction’.
3. Carney and Rosomoff, In the Shadow of Slavery, p.178.
4. Joyner, Down by the Riverside, p.280.
5. Ibid., pp.128, 174–6.
6. Ferguson, Uncommon Ground, p.xxi.
7. Ibid., pp.63–4, 72, 80–1; Joyner, Down by the Riverside, p.197; Butler, ‘Greens’, p.170.
8. Ferguson, Uncommon Ground, pp.xxxv–vi.
9. Ibid., p.24.
10. Ibid., p.97.
11. Ibid., p.10.
12. Ibid., p.84.
13. Ibid., pp.103–5.
14. Cited by ibid., p.90.
15. Rutledge, The Carolina Housewife, p.43.
16. Asare et al., A Ghana Cook-Book for Schools, p.30.
17. www.milliganfamily.org/middleburg.htm (accessed 18 October 2013).
18. Weir, Colonial South Carolina, p.64.
19. Rutledge, The Carolina Housewife, p.xviii.
20. It still stands, the oldest surviving wooden frame house in South Carolina: http://south-carolina-plantations.com/berkeley/middleburg.html (accessed 18 October 2013).
21. Catesby, The Natural History of Carolina, Florida, and the Bahama Islands, p.xvi.
22. Lawson, A New Voyage to Carolina, pp.66, 121; Catesby, The Natural History of Carolina, Florida, and the Bahama Islands, p.xxvi.
23. Lawson, A New Voyage to Carolina, p.20.
24. Ibid., p.66; Catesby, The Natural History of Carolina, Florida, and the Bahama Islands, p.xxvi.
25. McWilliams, A Revolution in Eating, p.152.
26. Ibid., pp.146, 149.
27. Ibid., p.133.
28. Catesby, The Natural History of Carolina, Florida, and the Bahama Islands, p.xxiv.
29. Russell Cross, ‘Middleburg Plantation and the Benjamin Simons Family’, www.rootsweb.ancestry.com/~scbchs/middle.html (accessed 18 October 2013).
30. Carney, Black Rice, p.51.
31. McWilliams, A Revolution in Eating, p.134; Littlefield, Rice and Slaves, pp.20–1.
32. Otto, The Southern Frontiers, 1607–1860, p.29.
33. Carney, Black Rice, pp.38–9.
34. Ibid., pp.145–6.
35. Clifton, ‘The rice industry in colonial America’, p.268.
36. Ibid., p.269; ‘History of rice in Charleston and Georgetown’, www.ricehope.com/history/Ricehistory.htm (accessed 18 October 2013).
37. Lawson, A New Voyage to Carolina, p.16.
38. Pinckney, The Letterbook of Eliza Lucas Pinckney 1739–1762, p.97.
39. Rutledge, The Carolina Housewife; Hooker, A Colonial Plantation Cookbook, p.25.
40. Hooker, A Colonial Plantation Cookbook, p.32.
41. Butler, ‘Greens’, p.171.
42. Carney, Black Rice, p.22.
43. Clifton, ‘The rice industry in colonial America’, p.268.
44. Otto, The Southern Frontiers, 1607–1860, p.34.
45. Ray Timmons, ‘Brief history of Middleburg Plantation’; www.rootsweb.ancestry.com/~scbchs/middle.html (accessed 18 October 2013).
46. Carney, ‘Rice, slaves and landscapes of cultural memory’, p.56 (accessed 18 October 2013).
47. Tuten, Lowcountry Time and Tide, pp.14, 16 (accessed 18 October 2013).
48. Joyner, Down by the Riverside, p.132.
49. Clifton, ‘The rice industry in colonial America’, p.269.
50. Carney, ‘Rice, slaves and landscapes of cultural memory’ (accessed 18 October 2013).
51. Cited by Carney, Black Rice, pp.18–19.
52. Russell Cross, ‘Middleburg Plantation and the Benjamin Simons Family’,www.rootsweb.ancestry.com/~scbchs/middle.html (accessed 18 October 2013).
53. Carney, Black Rice, p.18.
54. Ray Timmons, ‘Brief history of Middleburg Plantation’; Russell Cross, ‘Middleburg Plantation and the Benjamin Simons Family’, www.rootsweb.ancestry.com/~scbchs/middle.html (accessed 18 October 2013).
55. Ferguson, Uncommon Ground, p.xxiv.
56. Clifton, ‘The rice industry in colonial America’, p.275.
57. Ibid., p.279.
58. Carney, Black Rice, p.29.
59. Tuten, Lowcountry Time and Tide, p.13.
60. Olmsted, A Journey in the Seaboard Slave States in the Years 1853–1854, II, p.66–7.
61. Joyner, Down by the Riverside, p.43.
62. Park Ethnography Program, ‘Gender, work and culture: South Carolina gold’, www.nps.gov/ethnography/aah/aaheritage/lowCountryD.htm (accessed 18 October 2013).
63. http://south-carolina-plantations.com/berkeley/middleburg.html (accessed 18 October 2013); Ray Timmons, ‘Brief history of Middleburg Plantation’; Russell Cross, ‘Middleburg Plantation and the Benjamin Simons Family’, www.rootsweb.ancestry.com/~scbchs/middle.html (accessed 18 October 2013).
64. Nicolson, Gentry, pp.252–4; Clifton, ‘The rice industry in colonial America’, p.279; Price, ‘The imperial economy, 1700–1776’, p.87.
65. ‘History of rice in Charleston and Georgetown’, www.ricehope.com/history/Ricehistory.htm (accessed 18 October 2013).
66. Davis, ‘English foreign trade, 1660–1700’, p.155; Price, ‘The imperial economy, 1700–1776’, p.82.
67. Nash, ‘Domestic material culture and consumer demand in the British Atlantic world’, p.237.
68. Ibid., p.248.
69. Ibid., p.234.
1. Barnard, South Africa a Century Ago, pp.46–7.
2. Fairbridge, Lady Anne Barnard at the Cape of Good Hope 1797–1802, p.12.
3. Barnard, South Africa a Century Ago, p.47.
4. Fairbridge, Lady Anne Barnard at the Cape of Good Hope 1797–1802, p.12.
5. Rodger, The Wooden World, p.71.
6. Stobart, Sugar and Spice, pp.62, 217–18, 233; Jones, ‘London mustard bottles’, p.80.
7. Macdonald, Feeding Nelson’s Navy, pp.128–9.
8. Gosnell, Before the Mast in the Clippers, pp.40–1.
9. Black, The British Seaborne Empire, p.125.
10. Barnard, South Africa a Century Ago, p.47.
11. Black, The British Seaborne Empire, pp.89, 143; Macdonald, The British Navy’s Victualling Board, 1793–1815, p.1.
12. Davey, ‘Within hostile shores’, p.254.
13. Knight and Wilcox, Sustaining the Fleet, 1793–1815, p.56.
14. Davey, ‘Within hostile shores’, p.254.
15. Falconer, A New Universal Dictionary of the Marine, p.40.
16. Wilk, Home Cooking in the Global Village, p.35.
17. Knight and Wilcox, Sustaining the Fleet, 1793–1815, pp.61–2; Swinburne, ‘Dancing with the mermaids’, p.317.
18. Baugh, British Naval Administration in the Age of Walpole, pp.41, 422; Thompson and Cowan, ‘Durable food production and consumption in the world economy’, p.39.
19. Busteed, ‘Identity and economy on an Anglo-Irish estate’, pp.177, 191; Donnelly, ‘Cork market’, p.132.
20. Mannion, ‘Victualling a fishery’, pp.36–7.
21. Truxes, Irish-American Trade, p.165.
22. Rodger, The Wooden World, p.101.
23. Glasse, The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy, p.240.
24. Coad, The Royal Dockyards 1690–1850, p.272; Swinburne, ‘Dancing with the mermaids,’ p.316; Jones, ‘Commercial foods, 1740–1820’, p.30.
25. Cited by Newton, Trademarked, p.117.
26. Atkins, ‘Vinegar and sugar’, p.43.
27. Price, ‘The imperial economy, 1700–1776’, pp.87–8.
28. Shammas, The Pre-industrial Consumer in England and America, pp.65, 68; Black, The British Seaborne Empire, p.60.
29. Jones, ‘Commercial foods, 1740–1820’, p.36.
30. 6 January 1774 in the New Hampshire Gazette, cited by Penderey, ‘The archaeology of urban foodways in Portsmouth, New Hampshire’, p.12.
31. Davis, ‘English foreign trade, 1700–1774’, p.151.
32. Ibid.
33. Roberts, Scenes and Characteristics of Hindoostan, II, pp.101–2.
34. Erikson, Between Monopoly and Free Trade, p.103.
35. Cited by Cotton, East Indiamen, pp.32–6.
36. Ibid.
37. Worthington, Coopers and Customs Cutters, p.7.
38. Jones, ‘Commercial foods, 1740–1820’, pp.27, 38.
39. Cornell, Amber Gold and Black, pp.101–2.
40. Pryor, ‘Indian pale ale’, p.40.
41. Cornell, Amber Gold and Black, p.106.
42. Mayhew, The Shops and Companies of London and the Trades and Manufactories of Great Britain, I, p.24.
43. Cornell, Amber Gold and Black, p.106.
44. Pryor, ‘Indian pale ale’, pp.45–53.
45. Cited by ibid., pp.52–3.
46. Mayhew, The Shops and Companies of London and the Trades and Manufactories of Great Britain, I, p.24.
47. Hancock, Oceans of Wine, pp.87–92, 155.
48. Ibid., p.xxii.
49. Spelling corrected. Thompson, ‘Henry Drax’s instructions on the management of a seventeenth-century Barbadian sugar plantation’, p.601.
50. Mackie, Life and Food in the Caribbean, pp.73–4.
51. Wood, ‘The letters of Simon Taylor of Jamaica to Chaloner Arcedekne, 1765–1775’, p.10.
52. Lehmann, The British Housewife, p.259.
53. Mandelkern, ‘The politics of the turtle feast’ (accessed 16 January 2017).
54. Schaw, Journal of a Lady of Quality, p.95.
55. Mandelkern, ‘The politics of the turtle feast’ (accessed 16 January 2017).
56. Although from 1707 I generally refer to the British, contemporary discussions about identity spoke of ‘Englishness’ not ‘Britishness’.
57. Bickham, ‘Eating the empire’, section III.
58. Cole, The Lady’s Complete Guide, pp.183–9.
59. Ibid., pp.187–8.
60. Edmunds, Curries, p.30.
61. Skeat, The Art of Cookery and Pastery, p. 41.
62. Mason, The Lady’s Assistant for Regulating and Supplying the Table, p.245.
63. ‘Reminiscences of a returning Indian’, p.18.
64. Cited by Zlotnick, ‘Domesticating imperialism’, p.52.
65. Collingham, Curry, p.133.
66. Hancock, Oceans of Wine, p.271.
67. Wilk, Home Cooking in the Global Village, p.213.
68. Jones, ‘Commercial foods, 1740–1820’, p.38.
69. Eedle, Albion Restored, p.124; Maidment, Reading Popular Prints 1790–1829, pp.27–52.
1. From the papers of William Russel (accessed 25 August 2016).
2. Information on ‘An alphabetical list of the Sons of Liberty who din’d at the Liberty Tree’ (accessed 24 August 2016).
3. Thompson, ‘The “friendly glass”’, p.561.
4. Stevens, The Silver Punch Bowl Made by Paul Revere.
5. Sons of Liberty Bowl, 1768.
6. Ammerman, ‘The tea crisis and its consequences, through 1775’, p.196.
7. Gollanek, Empire Follows Art, p.348.
8. Sons of Liberty Bowl, 1768.
9. Stevens, The Silver Punch Bowl Made by Paul Revere, pp.16–18.
10. http://cdm.bostonathenaeum.org/cdm/landingpage/collection/p16057coll32 (accessed 26 August 2016).
11. Ibid.; Wikitree.com/wiki/Homer-114 (accessed 25 August 2016).
12. Thompson, ‘Henry Drax’s instructions on the management of a seventeenth-century Barbadian sugar plantation’, p.595.
13. Ibid., p.587.
14. Ibid., p.595.
15. Talburt, Rum, Rivalry and Resistance Fighting for the Caribbean Spirit, p.40.
16. Sloane, A Voyage to the Islands Madera, Barbados, Nieves, St Christophers and Jamaica, Vol. I, p.xxix.
17. Cullen, Economy, Trade and Irish Merchants at Home and Abroad, 1600–1988, pp.107–9.
18. Goodwin, An Archaeology of Manners, pp.68–71.
19. McCusker, Rum and the American Revolution, p.536.
20. It used to be thought that the Sugar Act of 1764 was so incendiary because the extra-American trade in rum balanced American trade. But in fact, rum did not raise sufficient money to balance the colonies’ trading books. Rum revenues only ever covered about 11 per cent of the American import bill for British manufactures: McCusker, Rum and the American Revolution, pp.537–8.
21. Ibid., p.68.
22. Ibid., pp.478, 141.
23. Talburt, Rum, Rivalry and Resistance Fighting for the Caribbean Spirit, p.39.
24. Conroy, In Public Houses, p.97.
25. Ibid., p.154.
26. McWilliams, A Revolution in Eating, pp.245–6, 264–5, 285–6, 569.
27. Cited by Rothschild and Rockman, ‘City tavern, country tavern’, p.113.
28. Thompson, ‘The “friendly glass”’, p.562; Conroy, In Public Houses, p.76.
29. Conroy, In Public Houses, p.39.
30. Ibid., p.196.
31. Ibid., p.241.
32. Ibid., pp.34–5.
33. Rice, Early American Taverns, p.79.
34. Thompson, ‘The “friendly glass”’, p.556.
35. Rice, Early American Taverns, p.98.
36. McWilliams, A Revolution in Eating, pp.245, 263.
37. Gollanek, Empire Follows Art, p.350.
38. Conroy, In Public Houses, p.244.
39. Ibid., p.176.
40. Sons of Liberty Bowl, 1768.
41. McWilliams, A Revolution in Eating, pp.287–8; Parker, The Sugar Barons, pp.241–2, 320.
42. Parker, The Sugar Barons, p.307.
43. Ibid., pp.320–2.
44. Simmons, ‘Trade legislation and its enforcement’, p. 170
45. Sons of Liberty Bowl, 1768.
46. http://oldnorth.com/2015/02/26/this-old-pew-4-and-25-captain-daniel-malcolm-merchant-and-enemy-to-oppression/ (accessed 27 August 2016).
47. Ibid.
48. Parker, The Sugar Barons, p.322.
49. Cited by ibid., p.241.
50. Conroy, In Public Houses, pp.276–7.
51. O’Brien and Engerman, ‘Exports and the growth of the British economy from the Glorious Revolution to the Peace of Amiens’, p.182.
52. O’Brien, ‘Inseparable connections’, p.54.
53. Black, The British Seaborne Empire, p.42; Belich, Replenishing the Earth, p.50.
1. Khare, Hindu Hearth and Home, p.97.
2. Montgomery, The History, Antiquities, Topography, and Statistics of Eastern India, I, p.207; O’Brien, The Penguin Food Guide to India, pp.110–11.
3. O’Brien, The Penguin Food Guide to India, p.287.
4. Khare, Hindu Hearth and Home, p.97.
5. James, Raj, p.42.
6. Metcalfe, Ideologies of the Raj, pp.4–21.
7. Keay, The Honourable Company, p.430; Bayly, Imperial Meridian, p.220.
8. Montgomery, The History, Antiquities, Topography, and Statistics of Eastern India, I, pp.278–9; Mazumdar, ‘The impact of New World food crops on the diet and economy of China and India, 1600–1900’, p.72; Watt, The Commercial Products of India, p.351.
9. Montgomery, The History, Antiquities, Topography, and Statistics of Eastern India, II, p.207.
10. Ibid., I, pp.278–9.
11. Richards, ‘The Indian empire and peasant production of opium in the nineteenth century’, pp.75, 78.
12. Price, ‘The imperial economy, 1700–1776’, p.83.
13. Bayly, The Birth of the Modern World 1780–1914, pp.94–5.
14. Shineberg, They Came for Sandalwood, p.3.
15. In 1761–70, British silver paid for 53 per cent of the bill for tea, British goods 23.4 per cent and Indian goods 24.3 per cent: Chung, ‘The British–China–India trade triangle, 1771–1840’, p.413.
16. Richards, ‘The Indian empire and peasant production of opium in the nineteenth century’, p.60.
17. Dikötter et al., ‘China, British imperialism and the myth of the “opium plague”’, pp.23–4.
18. Richards, ‘The Indian empire and peasant production of opium in the nineteenth century’, p.67.
19. Ibid.
20. Chowdhury, Growth of Commercial Agriculture in Bengal, p.56.
21. Richards, ‘The Indian empire and peasant production of opium in the nineteenth century’, pp.71, 80.
22. Chowdhury, Growth of Commercial Agriculture in Bengal, p.49.
23. Ibid., p.51.
24. Richards, ‘“Cannot we induce the people of England to eat opium?”’, p.76.
25. Richards, ‘The Indian empire and peasant production of opium in the nineteenth century’, p.76.
26. Hunt, The India–China Opium Trade in the Nineteenth Century, pp.67, 92.
27. Polacheck, The Inner Opium War, p.110.
28. Siddiqi, ‘Pathways of the poppy’, p.25.
29. Chung, The British–China–India trade triangle, 1771–1840’, pp.416–17.
30. Siddiqi, ‘Pathways of the poppy’, pp.24–5.
31. Chowdhury, Growth of Commercial Agriculture in Bengal, p.5.
32. Ibid., pp.4–5; Chung, ‘The British–China–India trade triangle, 1771–1840’, p.413.
33. Richards, ‘The Indian empire and peasant production of opium in the nineteenth century’, p.66; Richards, ‘The opium industry in British India’, p.153.
34. Richards, ‘The opium industry in British India’, p.155.
35. Richards, ‘The Indian empire and peasant production of opium in the nineteenth century’, p.71.
36. Watt, The Commercial Products of India, p.860.
37. The legal sales of opium in poppy-growing districts were so much lower than for the rest of the region that it is clear that an illicit trade existed. Richards, ‘“Cannot we induce the people of England to eat opium?”’, p.76.
38. Richards, ‘The Indian empire and peasant production of opium in the nineteenth century’, p.82.
39. Cited in ibid., pp.72, 77.
40. Chung, ‘The British–China–India trade triangle, 1771–1840’, pp.419–20.
41. Dikötter et al., ‘China, British imperialism and the myth of the “opium plague”’, p.19.
42. Ibid.
43. Calculated at a rate of consumption of 17 g a day: Richards, ‘The opium industry in British India’, p.164.
44. Newman, ‘Opium smoking in late imperial China’, p.783.
45. Dikötter et al., ‘China, British imperialism and the myth of the “opium plague”’, p.21.
46. Smith, The Compleat Housewife, p.262.
47. Fairbank and Twitchett, The Cambridge History of China, p.179.
48. Gray, Rebellions and Revolutions, p.28; Richards ‘The opium industry in British India’, p.168.
49. Von Glahn, Fountain of Fortune, p.256; Fairbank and Twitchett, The Cambridge History of China, p.178; Kuhn, Soulstealers, p.39; Gray, Rebellions and Revolutions, p.28.
50. Deng, ‘Miracle or mirage? Foreign silver, China’s economy and globalisation from the sixteenth to the nineteenth centuries’, p.353.
51. Polacheck, The Inner Opium War, p.105.
52. Ibid., p.2.
53. Fairbank and Twitchett, The Cambridge History of China, p.164.
54. Polacheck, The Inner Opium War, p.110.
55. Ibid., p.102.
56. Dikötter et al., Narcotic Culture, p.16.
57. Polacheck, The Inner Opium War, p.123.
58. Ibid., pp.134–5.
59. Bayly, The Birth of the Modern World, pp.136–8.
60. Chung, ‘The British–China–India trade triangle, 1771–1840’, p.416.
61. Brendon, The Decline and Fall of the British Empire 1781–1997, p.104.
62. Gray, Rebellions and Revolutions, pp.36, 50.
63. Dikötter et al., Narcotic Culture, p.109.
64. Ammerman, ‘The tea crisis and its consequences, through 1775’, p.204.
65. Dikötter et al., ‘China, British imperialism and the myth of the “opium plague”’, p.28.
66. Ibid., pp.26–7.
67. Newman, ‘Opium smoking in late imperial China’, p.779.
68. Ibid., p.765.
1. Arch, From Ploughtail to Parliament, pp.126–7.
2. Cited by Arnold, The Farthest Promised Land, p.127.
3. Ibid.
4. Ibid., p.112.
5. Ibid., p.109.
6. Arch, From Ploughtail to Parliament, p.100.
7. Ibid., p.101.
8. Burnett, Plenty and Want, p.25.
9. Ibid., p.133.
10. Ibid., pp.26–7.
11. Arch, From Ploughtail to Parliament, p.73.
12. Arnold, The Farthest Promised Land, p.35.
13. Ibid., p.5.
14. Ibid., p.116.
15. Ibid., pp.117–18.
16. Ibid., p.126.
17. Ibid., p.127.
18. Nally, ‘“That coming storm”’, p.715.
19. Hoerder, ‘From dreams to possibilities’, p.11.
20. Richter, ‘“Could you not turn your back on this hunger country”’, pp.19–20.
21. Belich, Replenishing the Earth, p.158.
22. Cameron et al., English Immigrant Voices, p.85.
23. Arnold, The Farthest Promised Land, p.243.
24. Ibid., pp.127–8.
25. Friedmann, ‘Beyond “voting with their feet”’, p.558; Richards, Britannia’s Children, p.119; Burnett, Plenty and Want, p.3.
26. Tosh, ‘Jeremiah Goldswain’s farewell’, p.34.
27. Ibid., p.28.
28. Errington, ‘British migration and British America, 1783–1867’, pp.140–6.
29. Tosh, ‘Jeremiah Goldswain’s farewell’, p.35.
30. Long, The Chronicle of Jeremiah Goldswain, pp.1–4. The account of his departure is heart-rending. His parents watched the party of would-be emigrants depart. His mother had asked him when he reached the turn in the road ‘to hold up my hankershift as this wold be probley the Last time she wold see me for ever, I lost site of them and went on with a hevey hart’ (pp.5–6).
31. Belich, ‘The rise of the Anglo-world’, p.49.
32. The number of available passenger berths for crossing the Atlantic tripled.
33. Stephenson, Recollections of a Long Life 1829–1915, p.23.
34. Richards, Britannia’s Children, p.118.
35. Nally, ‘“That coming storm”’, pp.723–31.
36. Richards, Britannia’s Children, p.118.
37. Ibid., p.152.
38. Erikson, Leaving England, p.57.
39. Rössler, ‘The dream of independence’, p.138.
40. Ibid., p.130.
41. Ibid., p.139.
42. Dublin, Immigrant Voices, p.69.
43. Rössler, ‘The dream of independence’, p.151.
44. Arnold, The Farthest Promised Land, p.325.
45. Ibid., p.11.
46. Kennaway, Crusts, p.21.
47. Burnett, Plenty and Want, p.30.
48. Horsman, Feast or Famine, p.13.
49. Diner, Hungering for America, p.16.
50. Dale, The Cross Timbers, p.35.
51. Arch, From Ploughtail to Parliament, p.207.
52. Dale, The Cross Timbers, p.41.
53. Barker, Station Life in New Zealand, pp.107–8.
54. Arnold, The Farthest Promised Land, p.172.
55. Ibid., pp.156–7.
56. Barker, Station Life in New Zealand, p.41.
57. Dublin, Immigrant Voices, p.80.
58. Belich, Making Peoples, p.281.
59. Bickersteth, The Land of Open Doors, pp.25–6.
60. Arnold, The Farthest Promised Land, p.314.
61. Ibid., p.127.
62. Ibid., p.313.
63. Ibid., pp.318–19.
64. See Goldswain (ed.), ‘Introduction’.
65. Weaver, The Great Land Rush and the Making of the Modern World, 1650–1900, p.88.
1. Sherwood, Surveying Southern British Columbia, p.41.
2. Ibid., p.43.
3. Ibid.
4. Ibid.
5. See for example, Kelsey, ‘Food for the Lewis and Clark expedition’, p.201.
6. Wilk, Home Cooking in the Global Village, pp.63–4; Wilk, ‘The extractive economy’, p.288.
7. Horsman, Feast or Famine, p.42.
8. Sellick, The Imperial African Cookery Book, p.28.
9. Sherwood, Surveying Southern British Columbia, pp.21–4, 68.
10. Wilk, Home Cooking in the Global Village, pp.26–7.
11. Tye, ‘“A poor man’s meal”’, pp.38–40; Stephenson, Recollections of a Long Life 1829–1915, p.43.
12. See Murgatroyd, The Dig Tree.
13. Macdonald, Feeding Nelson’s Navy, pp.9–10.
14. Rodger, The Wooden World, pp.100–1.
15. Wynter, Our Social Bees, p.199.
16. Farrer, A Settlement Amply Supplied, pp.36–9; Geoghegan, ‘The story of how the tin nearly wasn’t’ (accessed 11 September 2016).
17. Drummond and Lewis, Historic Tinned Food, p.14.
18. Ibid., pp.13–17.
19. Farrer, A Settlement Amply Supplied, pp.42–3.
20. Robertson, ‘“Mariners’ mealtimes”’, p.156.
21. Ibid., pp.152–3; Goody, ‘Industrial food’, p.341.
22. Drummond and Lewis, Historic Tinned Food, p.15.
23. Robertson, ‘“Mariners’ mealtimes”’, p.155.
24. Wynter, Our Social Bees, p.194.
25. Geoghegan, ‘The story of how the tin nearly wasn’t’ (accessed 11 September 2016).
26. Farrer, A Settlement Amply Supplied, pp.45–6.
27. Ibid., pp.83–6.
28. Drummond and Lewis, Historic Tinned Food, p.13.
29. Muller, ‘Industrial food preservation in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries’, p.128; Hughes, Victorians Undone, pp.364–5.
30. Burnett, Plenty and Want, p.116.
31. Goody, ‘Industrial food’, p.343.
32. Parks, Wanderings of a Pilgrim in Search of the Picturesque during Four-and-Twenty Years in the East, p.230.
33. Roberts, Scenes and Characteristics of Hindoostan, I, p.75.
34. Horsman, Feast or Famine, p.2.
35. Shepherd, Pickled, Potted and Canned, p.245.
36. Mayhew, The Shops and Companies of London and the Trades and Manufactories of Great Britain, V, p.177; Atkins, ‘Vinegar and sugar’, pp.44–6; Cowen, Relish, p.154.
37. Mayhew, The Shops and Companies of London and the Trades and Manufactories of Great Britain, V, p.183.
38. Ibid., p.185.
39. Hull and Mair, The European in India, p.93.
40. Mayhew, The Shops and Companies of London and the Trades and Manufactories of Great Britain, I, p.13.
41. Ibid.
42. In 1874, the Reading biscuit maker Huntley & Palmers manufactured 3,200 tons of biscuits, while J. D. Carr’s of Carlisle produced 950 tons of 128 different varieties: Corley, Quaker Enterprise in Biscuits, p.77; Forster, Rich Desserts and Captain’s Thin, p.136.
43. Mayhew, The Shops and Companies of London and the Trades and Manufactories of Great Britain, V, pp.15–16.
44. Corley, ‘Nutrition, technology and the growth of the British biscuit industry 1820–1900’, p.22.
45. Corley, Quaker Enterprise in Biscuits, pp.74–5; Annual Statement of the Trade and Navigation of the United Kingdom with Foreign Countries and British Possessions in the Year 1870, p.115.
46. Forster, Rich Desserts and Captain’s Thin, p.139.
47. Corley, Quaker Enterprise in Biscuits, p.94.
48. Muller, Baking and Bakeries, p.24.
49. Corley, Quaker Enterprise in Biscuits, p.94.
50. Wenzel, House Decoration in Nubia, pp.3, 150–1.
51. Collingham, Imperial Bodies, pp. 60–1.
52. Ibid., pp.50–3.
53. Johnson, The Stranger in India, or Three Years in Calcutta, I, p.164.
54. Lawrence, Genteel Women, p.193.
55. ‘Culinary jottings for Madras by Wyvern’, p.xiv.
56. Dutton, Life in India, p.100.
57. Lawrence, Genteel Women, pp.213–16.
58. Wyvern, Culinary Jottings, p.28.
59. Boyle, Diary of a Colonial Officer’s Wife, p.17.
60. Ibid., pp.3, 67.
61. Hall, ‘And the Nights were more terrible than the days’, Ch. X, p.5.
62. Ibid., Ch. X, pp.4, 10.
63. Ibid.
64. Ibid., Ch. X, p.43.
65. Ibid., Ch. X, pp.36–7.
66. Ibid., Ch. X, p.37.
67. Wilk, Home Cooking in the Global Village, pp.48–9; Wilk, ‘Anchovy sauce’, p.93.
68. Goody, ‘Industrial food’, p.342.
69. Wyvern, Culinary Jottings, p.28.
70. Raphael, ‘Steam power and hand technology’, p.24.
71. Black, The British Seaborne Empire, p.62.
72. Mayhew, The Shops and Companies of London and the Trades and Manufactories of Great Britain, V, p.181.
73. Corley, Quaker Enterprise in Biscuits, pp.36–7, 45; Atkins, ‘Vinegar and sugar’, p.47.
74. Correspondence between H&P and Col. A. J. Palmer regarding his fact-finding mission to South America, the West Indies and New York in 1938.
75. 0.095 per cent of total UK industrial production, or £919,000 out of an estimated £968 million. Corley, Quaker Enterprise in Biscuits, p.125; Payne, ‘The emergence of the large-scale company in Great Britain, 1879–1914’, p.540.
76. Atkins, ‘Vinegar and sugar’, p.47; Mayhew, The Shops and Companies of London and the Trades and Manufactories of Great Britain, V, p.177.
1. Montgomery, Journal of Voyages and Travels by the Rev. Daniel Tyerman and George Bennet, Esq., pp.530–1.
2. Ibid.
3. Ibid., pp.516–17.
4. Ibid., p.531.
5. Ibid., p.533.
6. Smith, Consumption and the Making of Respectability, 1600–1800, pp.189–90.
7. ‘Respectability heavily emphasized an image of the family as an entity devoted primarily to educating its members in moral behaviour and to sustaining their virtue … A respectable home and its inhabitants were clean. Respectable people were properly dressed, modestly … fashionably … in public’: ibid., pp.210–11.
8. Montgomery, Journal of Voyages and Travels by the Rev. Daniel Tyerman and George Bennet, Esq., pp.533–4.
9. Ibid.
10. Ibid., p.535.
11. Daws, A Dream of Islands, p.32.
12. Ibid., p.39.
13. Smith, Consumption and the Making of Respectability, 1600–1800, pp.241–2.
14. Sivasundaram, Nature and the Godly Empire, pp.163–6.
15. Curr, Recollections of Squatting in Victoria, p.170.
16. McDonald, ‘Encounters at “Bushman Station”’; Reynolds, ‘The other side of the frontier’, p.61.
17. Nettelbeck and Foster, ‘Food and governance on the frontiers of colonial Australia and Canada’s North West Territories’, p.22.
18. Hallam, ‘Aboriginal women as providers’, pp.38, 43–51.
19. Foster, ‘Rations, coexistence, and the colonisation of Aboriginal labour in the South Australian pastoral industry, 1860–1911’, p.12.
20. Ibid., p.11.
21. Nettelbeck and Foster, ‘Food and governance on the frontiers of colonial Australia and Canada’s North West Territories’, pp.26–8.
22. Foster, ‘Rations, coexistence, and the colonisation of Aboriginal labour in the South Australian pastoral industry, 1860–1911’, p.19.
23. Reynolds, ‘The other side of the frontier’, p.54.
24. Smith, ‘Station camps’, p.80.
25. Siochrú and Brown, ‘The Down Survey of Ireland project’, p.6.
26. Bayly, The Birth of the Modern World, 1780–1914, p.443.
27. Weaver, The Great Land Rush and the Making of the Modern World, 1650–1900, pp.229–30.
28. Nettelbeck and Foster, ‘Food and governance on the frontiers of colonial Australia and Canada’s North West Territories’, pp.25, 33–4.
29. Foster, ‘Rations, coexistence, and the colonisation of Aboriginal labour in the South Australian pastoral industry, 1860–1911’, p.16.
30. Coutts, ‘Merger or takeover’, p.513.
31. Hallam, ‘Aboriginal women as providers’, pp.38, 43–51.
32. Cronon, Changes in the Land; Shawcross, ‘Fern-root and the total scheme of eighteenth century Maori food production in agricultural areas’.
33. Wilk, Home Cooking in the Global Village, pp.63–4.
34. Hall, ‘And the Nights were more terrible than the days’, Ch. X, p.32.
35. Ibid.
36. Collingham, Imperial Bodies, pp.57, 186.
37. Wilk, Home Cooking in the Global Village, pp.80–2, 94.
38. Ibid., p.91.
39. Tandon, Beyond Punjab 1937–1960, p.67.
40. Collingham, Around India’s First Table, pp.93, 127.
41. Sellick, The Imperial African Cookery Book, p.11.
42. Cusack, ‘African cuisines’, p.210.
43. Richards, Land, Labour and Diet in Northern Rhodesia, p.61.
44. Ibid., p.3.
1. Terry Roopnaraine in conversation with the author, August 2016.
2. Pagrach-Chandra, ‘Damra bound’, pp.177–8.
3. Terry Roopnaraine in conversation with the author, August 2016; Bahadur, Coolie Woman, pp.5–6.
4. Bayly, The Birth of the Modern World, 1780–1914, pp.300–1.
5. Cain, ‘Economics and empire’, pp.38–40.
6. Shineberg, They Came for Sandalwood, p.3.
7. Rodney, History of the Guyanese Working People, p.61–2.
8. Lai, Indentured Labor, Caribbean Sugar, pp.5–9.
9. Allen, ‘Slaves, convicts, abolitionism and the global origins of the post-emancipation indentured labor system’, p.334.
10. Ibid., p.332.
11. St John, The Making of the Raj, pp.72–3.
12. Ramdin, Arising from Bondage, p.12; Sharma, ‘“Lazy” natives, coolie labour and the Assam tea industry’, p.1311.
13. Carter, Voices from Indenture, pp.65–6; Lai, Indentured Labor, Caribbean Sugar, pp.20–3.
14. Havinden and Meredith, Colonialism and Development, p.41; Tomlinson, ‘Economics and empire’, p.61; Osterhammel, The Transformation of the World, p.159.
15. Lai, Indentured Labor, Caribbean Sugar, p.12.
16. Carter, Voices from Indenture, p.21.
17. Havinden and Meredith, Colonialism and Development, p.42.
18. Carter, Voices from Indenture, p.94.
19. Ibid.; Eltis and Richardson, Atlas of the Transatlantic Slave Trade, pp.167–8.
20. Carter, Voices from Indenture, p.103.
21. Graves, ‘Colonialism and indentured labour migration in the Western Pacific, 1840–1915’, p.225.
22. Pagrach-Chandra, ‘Damra bound’, p.173.
23. Osterhammel, The Transformation of the World, p.159.
24. Pagrach-Chandra, ‘Damra bound’, p.174; Pillai, ‘Food culture of Indo Caribbean’, p.2.
25. Pillai, ‘Food culture of Indo Caribbean’, p.5.
26. Pagrach-Chandra, ‘Damra bound’, p.176.
27. Dods, The Cook and Housewife’s Manual, p.192.
28. Pagrach-Chandra, ‘Damra bound’, pp.176–7; Pillai, ‘Food culture of Indo Caribbean’, pp.4–5.
29. Adapted from The Inner Gourmet with thanks to Terry Roopnaraine for his grandmother’s recipe.
30. Rodney, History of the Guyanese Working People, p. 99.
31. Wills, ‘European consumption and Asian production in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries’, p.145.
32. Antrobus, A History of the Assam Tea Company, 1839–1953, p.22; Liu, ‘The birth of a noble tea country’, pp.77, 80.
33. Antrobus, A History of the Assam Tea Company, 1839–1953, p. 30.
34. Liu, ‘The birth of a noble tea country’, p.82.
35. Collingham, Curry, p.194.
36. Antrobus, A History of the Assam Tea Company, 1839–1953, p.99.
37. Gardella, Harvesting Mountains, p.46.
38. Sharma, ‘“Lazy” natives, coolie labour and the Assam tea industry’, p.1308.
39. Ibid., pp.1303–8; Macfarlane and Macfarlane, Green Gold, pp.215–16.
40. Collingham, Imperial Bodies, pp.143–4.
41. Allen, ‘Slaves, convicts, abolitionism and the global origins of the post-emancipation indentured labor system’, p.328.
42. Rappaport, ‘Packaging China’, pp.125–35.
43. Gardella, Harvesting Mountains, p.110; Collingham, Curry, p.194.
44. Mintz, Sweetness and Power, p.71.
45. The four counties were Taishan, Kaiping, Xinhui, Enping: Li, The Chinese in Canada, p.20; Hsu, Dreaming of Gold, Dreaming of Home, p.28.
46. Hsu, Dreaming of Gold, Dreaming of Home, p.30.
47. Ibid., p.29.
48. Friday, Organizing Asian American Labour, p.25.
49. Hsu, Dreaming of Gold, Dreaming of Home, p.35.
50. Ross, ‘Factors influencing the dining habits of Japanese and Chinese migrants at a British Columbia salmon cannery’, p.71.
51. Graves, ‘Colonialism and indentured labour migration in the Western Pacific, 1840–1915’, pp.243–54; Graves, Cane and Labour, pp.74–101.
52. Brooks, ‘Peanuts and colonialism’, pp.43–6.
53. Ibid., p.41.
54. Clarence-Smith, Cocoa and Chocolate, 1765–1914, pp.158–9; Iliffe, Africans, p.203.
55. Cited in Mintz, Sweetness and Power, p.42.
1. Gaskell, Mary Barton, pp.1–17.
2. Broomfield, Food and Cooking in Victorian England, pp.78–9.
3. Osterhammel, The Transformation of the World, pp.245–9, 259.
4. Engels, The Condition of the Working Class in England, pp.18–20.
5. Burnett, Plenty and Want, pp.56–7.
6. Bell, At the Works, p.47.
7. The worst recessions were in 1816, 1826–7, 1841–3, 1848–9 and 1861.
8. Burnett, Plenty and Want, p.41; Oddy, ‘Urban famine in nineteenth-century Britain’, p.74.
9. Foster, ‘Introduction’, p.x.
10. Engels, The Condition of the Working Class in England, p.17.
11. Dickens, ‘Hard Times’, p.5.
12. Zylberberg, ‘Fuel prices, regional diets and cooking habits in the English industrial revolution (1750–1830)’, p.106.
13. Burnett, Plenty and Want, pp.56–7.
14. Engels, The Condition of the Working Class in England, p.84.
15. Thompson, The Empire Strikes Back?, p.267.
16. Bell, At the Works, p.62.
17. Oddy, ‘A nutritional analysis of historical evidence’, p.225.
18. Oddy, ‘Urban famine in nineteenth-century Britain’, p.80.
19. Sharpe, ‘Explaining the short stature of the poor’, pp.1477–9.
20. Ibid., pp.1475–6.
21. Szreter and Mooney, ‘Urbanization, mortality, and the standard of living debate’, pp.88, 96.
22. Gaskell, Mary Barton, pp.10–11.
23. Engels, The Condition of the Working Class in England, p.31.
24. McLean and Bustani, ‘Irish potatoes and British politics’, p.819.
25. Ibid., p.820.
26. Nally, ‘“That coming storm”’, p.728.
27. McLean and Bustani, ‘Irish potatoes and British politics’, pp.822–5.
28. Vugt, ‘Running from ruin?’, p.418.
29. Belich, Replenishing the Earth, p.343.
30. Ibid., p.344.
31. Ibid., p.340; Cronon, Nature’s Metropolis, pp.102–3, 110.
32. Ibid., p.113–14; Sharp and Weisdorf, ‘Globalization revisited’, p.90.
33. Paul, ‘The wheat trade between California and the United Kingdom’, pp.391–3.
34. Ibid., p.397.
35. West, ‘Grain kings, rubber dreams and stock exchanges’, p.110.
36. Paul, ‘The wheat trade between California and the United Kingdom,’ p.411.
37. Ibid., p.399.
38. Fremdling, ‘European foreign trade policies, freight rates and the world markets of grain and coal during the nineteenth century’, p.91.
39. Perren, Agriculture in Depression, 1870–1914, pp.2–3.
40. Burnett, Plenty and Want, p.116; Hobsbawm, The Age of Capital 1848–1875, p.175.
41. Perren, Agriculture in Depression, 1870–1914, pp.6, 17.
42. Spring, ‘Land and politics in Edwardian England’, pp.18–20.
43. Ibid., pp.21–6; Cain and Hopkins, British Imperialism 1688–2000, pp.109–10. See also Blackwell, ‘“An undoubted jewel”’.
44. Rothstein, ‘Rivalry for the British wheat market, 1860–1914’, p.402.
45. Ibid., p.407.
46. Ibid., p.415.
47. Andrabi and Kuehlwein, ‘Railways and price convergence in British India’, pp.354–74.
48. Osterhammel, The Transformation of the World, pp.199, 207.
49. Srivastava, The History of Indian Famines and Development of Famine Policy 1858–1918, pp.331–2.
50. Sweeney, ‘Indian railways and famine 1875–1914’, p.146. Famine struck in 1860–1, 1865–7, 1868–70, 1873–4, 1876–9, 1899–1900, 1907–8, 1913–14 and 1918–19.
51. Cosgrove et al., ‘Colonialism, international trade and the nation-state’, p.234.
52. Hall-Matthews, Peasants, Famine and the State in Colonial Western India, p.8.
53. St John, The Making of the Raj, p.64.
54. Belich, Replenishing the Earth, pp.364–5.
55. Solberg, The Prairies and the Pampas, p.28.
56. Ibid., p.1.
57. Asteris, ‘The rise and decline of South Wales coal exports, 1870–1930’, p.40.
58. Jones, Empire of Dust, p.88.
59. Weaver, The Great Land Rush and the Making of the Modern World, 1650–1900, p.267; Solberg, The Prairies and the Pampas, pp.39, 56, 79.
60. Smith, The People’s Health, 1830–1910, pp.209–10.
61. Thompson, The Empire Strikes Back?, p.46.
62. Perren, Agriculture in Depression, 1870–1914, p.13.
63. Ibid., p.14; Hobsbawm, The Age of Empire 1875–1914, p.36; Thirsk, Alternative Agriculture, p.177.
64. Hoffmann, British Industry 1700–1950, pp.204–5; Torode, ‘Trends in fruit consumption’, p.123. The Caribbean sugar planters survived by amalgamating their plantations and diverting their sugar to America and Canada: Heuman, ‘The British West Indies’, p.490–1.
65. Paterson, Across the Bridges, or, Life by the South London River-side, p.36.
66. Burnett, Plenty and Want, p.115.
67. Smith, The People’s Health, 1830–1910, pp.214–15.
68. Szreter and Mooney, ‘Urbanization, mortality, and the standard of living debate’, p.88.
1. Tandon, Punjabi Century 1857–1947, p.214.
2. Ibid.
3. Ibid., pp.214–15.
4. Ibid.
5. The pancreas and the testicles: ibid., p.205.
6. Ibid., p.211.
7. Perren, Taste, Trade and Technology, pp.8–9.
8. Ibid., p.40.
9. Smith, Practical Dietary for Families, Schools, and the Labouring Classes, pp.79–80.
10. Belich, Replenishing the Earth, p.449.
11. Smith, Practical Dietary for Families, Schools, and the Labouring Classes, p.269.
12. Ibid., pp.268–9.
13. Ibid., pp.79–80.
14. Wynter, Our Social Bees, p.204.
15. Plummer, New British Industries in the Twentieth Century, p.229; Farrer, A Settlement Amply Supplied, pp.69, 76.
16. Farrer, A Settlement Amply Supplied, pp.134–5.
17. Ibid., p.139.
18. Ibid., pp.145–6.
19. Knightley, The Rise and Fall of the House of Vestey, p.10.
20. Wade, Chicago’s Pride, p.103.
21. Goody, ‘Industrial food’, p.347; Farrer, A Settlement Amply Supplied, p.152; Thompson, The Empire Strikes Back?, p.43.
22. Perren, Taste, Trade and Technology, pp.45, 60; Farrer, A Settlement Amply Supplied, p.149; Burnett, Plenty and Want, pp.116–17.
23. Freidberg, Fresh, p.56; Whitten and Whitten, The Birth of Big Business in the United States, 1860–1914, p.168.
24. Shannon, The Farmer’s Last Frontier, p.194.
25. Dale, Frontier Ways, pp.14–16; Cronon, Nature’s Metropolis, pp.219–21.
26. Perren, Taste, Trade and Technology, pp.68–9; Freidberg, Fresh, pp.68–9.
27. Whitten and Whitten, The Birth of Big Business in the United States, 1860–1914, pp.170–1; Cronon, Nature’s Metropolis, pp.212–13.
28. Belich, Replenishing the Earth, pp.344–5; Perren, Taste, Trade and Technology, pp.1, 68, 73.
29. Perren, ‘The North American beef and cattle trade with Great Britain, 1870–1914’, p.432; Dale, Frontier Ways, p.14.
30. Woods, ‘Breed, culture, and economy’, p.295.
31. Moore, ‘National identity and Victorian Christmas foods’, p.149.
32. Farrer, A Settlement Amply Supplied, p.189.
33. Ibid., pp.192–3.
34. Ibid., p.196.
35. Ibid., p.192.
36. Woods, ‘Breed, culture and economy,’ p.297.
37. Ibid., p.288.
38. Farrer, A Settlement Amply Supplied, pp.192–4; Perren, Taste, Trade and Technology, p.49.
39. Critchell and Raymond, A History of the Frozen Meat Trade, pp.285–6.
40. Ibid., pp.33, 76.
41. Ibid., pp.65, 78.
42. Ibid., p.78; Solberg, The Prairies and the Pampas, p.5.
43. Smith, Practical Dietary for Families, Schools, and the Labouring Classes, pp.79–80.
44. Perren, Taste, Trade and Technology, p.49.
45. Freidberg, Fresh, p.75; Dingle, ‘Drink and working-class living standards in Britain, 1870–1914’, p.129.
46. Burnett, Plenty and Want, p.155.
47. Cited by Keating, Into Unknown England, 1866–1913, pp.130–1.
48. Othick, ‘The cocoa and chocolate industry in the 19th century’, pp.81–2.
49. Clarence-Smith, Cocoa and Chocolate, 1765–1914, p.24.
50. Ibid., p.27; Othick, ‘The cocoa and chocolate industry in the 19th century’, p.86.
51. Othick, ‘The cocoa and chocolate industry in the 19th century’, p.84; Clarence-Smith, Cocoa and Chocolate, pp.71–4.
52. Cited by Steinitz, ‘The tales they told’.
53. Ibid.
54. Goody, ‘Industrial food,’ p.343; den Hartog, ‘The discovery of vitamins and its impact on the food industry’, pp.131–4.
55. Steel, ‘New Zealand is butterland’, p.182.
56. Whitten and Whitten, The Birth of Big Business in the United States, 1860–1914, p.169.
57. Perren, Taste, Trade and Technology, pp.72, 76.
58. Winstanley, The Shopkeeper’s World 1830–1914, p.38.
59. Steel, ‘New Zealand is butterland’, p.185.
60. Blackman, ‘The corner shop: the development of the grocery and general provisions trade’, p.154.
61. Mathias, Retailing Revolution, p.175.
62. Ibid., pp.107–9.
63. Mathias, ‘The British tea trade in the nineteenth century’, p.96.
64. Ibid., p.97.
65. Dingle, ‘Drink and working-class living standards in Britain, 1870–1914’, p.128; Kennedy, The Merchant Princes, p.211.
66. Corley, ‘Nutrition, technology and the growth of the British biscuit industry 1820–1900’, p.24; Corley, Quaker Enterprise in Biscuits, pp.137, 256.
67. Aucamp, ‘The establishment and development of the Cape fresh fruit industry 1886–1910’, pp.86–7.
68. Torode, ‘Trends in fruit consumption’, p.118.
69. Hawkins, ‘The pineapple canning industry during the world depression of the 1930s’, pp.49, 55.
70. Tandon, Punjabi Century 1857–1947, p.215; Imperial Economic Committee, ‘Canned and dried fruit notes’.
71. Offer, ‘The working classes, British naval plans and the coming of the Great War’, p.206.
72. Empire Marketing Board Posters.
73. Perren, Agriculture in Depression, 1870–1914, p.61.
74. Ibid.
75. Hobsbawm, The Age of Empire 1875–1914, p.39.
1. Sellick, The Imperial African Cookery Book, pp.253–4.
2. Robertson, ‘Black, white, and red all over’, p.269.
3. Ibid., pp.267–8.
4. Ibid., p.269.
5. Brantley, ‘Kikuyu-Maasai nutrition and colonial science’, pp.55–7.
6. Ibid., p.49.
7. Burnett, Plenty and Want, p.281; Orr, As I Recall, p.115; Mayhew, ‘The 1930s nutrition controversy’, pp.457–8.
8. Brantley, ‘Kikuyu-Maasai nutrition and colonial science’, pp.57–66.
9. Robertson, ‘Black, white, and red all over’, pp.264–6.
10. Ibid., p.270.
11. Richards, Land, Labour and Diet in Northern Rhodesia, p.52.
12. Brantley, ‘Kikuyu-Maasai nutrition and colonial science’, p.74.
13. Ibid.
14. Ibid.
15. Ibid., p.51.
16. Ibid., pp.83–4.
17. Fourshey, ‘“The remedy for hunger is bending the back”’, p.236.
18. Robertson, ‘Black, white, and red all over’, pp.274–9.
19. Fourshey, ‘“The remedy for hunger is bending the back”’, p.238.
20. Cited by Robertson, ‘Black, white, and red all over’, p.286.
21. Ibid., pp.286–8.
22. Ibid., p.281.
23. Fourshey, ‘“The remedy for hunger is bending the back”’, p.257.
24. Ibid., pp.250–1.
25. Robertson, ‘Black, white, and red all over’, pp.270–4.
26. Fourshey, ‘“The remedy for hunger is bending the back”’, p.225.
27. Ibid.
28. Worboys, ‘The discovery of colonial malnutrition between the wars’, pp.217–19.
29. Brantley, Feeding Families, p.150.
30. Havinden and Meredith, Colonialism and Development, p.284.
31. Ibid., p.292.
32. Ibid., p.283.
33. Destombes, ‘From long-term patterns of seasonal hunger to changing experiences of everyday poverty’, p.202.
34. Havinden and Meredith, Colonialism and Development, p.289.
35. Robertson, ‘Black, white, and red all over,’ pp.291–2; see also Freidberg, ‘Freshness from afar’; Freidberg, ‘Postcolonial paradoxes’.
36. ‘Vous ne savez pas où est l’imperialisme? … Regardez dans votre assiette!’ Cited by Cusack, ‘African cuisines’, p.207.
1. Crimp, The Diary of a Desert Rat, p.23.
2. Ibid., p.24.
3. Ibid., pp.20–1.
4. Ibid., p.21.
5. Bayly, ‘Spunyarns’, p.33.
6. Crimp, The Diary of a Desert Rat, pp.20–1.
7. Ibid., p.22.
8. Ibid., p.30.
9. Ibid., pp.38–9.
10. Tonkin, ‘No Tunnels – No Wooden Horses’, pp.37, 48–9.
11. Collingham, The Taste of War, p.67–8.
12. Overy, Why the Allies Won, p.31.
13. Jackson, The British Empire and the Second World War, p.2.
14. Ibid., p.4.
15. Ibid., p.44.
16. Adams, Farm Problems in Meeting Food Needs, p.12; Smith, Conflict over Convoys, pp.45–6.
17. MacRae, God Speed the Plough, p.8.
18. Martin, ‘The structural transformation of British agriculture’, p.34.
19. Collingham, The Taste of War, pp.96–100.
20. Swinton, I Remember, p.97.
21. Collingham, The Taste of War, p.140.
22. Ibid., p.141.
23. Crimp, The Diary of a Desert Rat, p.11.
24. Wilmington, The Middle East Supply Centre, p.50.
25. Ibid., pp.43–50.
26. Crimp, The Diary of a Desert Rat, p.30.
27. Collingham, The Taste of War, p.125.
28. Tunzelmann, Indian Summer, p.138.
29. The Production of Food Crops in Mauritius during the War.
30. Maxon,‘“Fantastic prices” in the midst of an “acute food shortage”’, pp.36–9.
31. Smith, Conflict Over Convoys, p.159.
32. Ibid.
33. Sen, Poverty and Famines, pp.71–2.
34. Greenough, Prosperity and Misery in Modern Bengal, p.168.
35. Ibid.
36. Stephens, Monsoon Morning, pp.169–70.
37. Ibid., pp.185–7.
38. Greenough, Prosperity and Misery in Modern Bengal, pp.136–7.
39. Stevenson, Bengal Tiger and British Lion, pp.153–4.
40. Greenough, Prosperity and Misery in Modern Bengal, p.140; Ellis, The World War II Databook, p.255.
41. Collingham, The Taste of War, p.151.
42. Sarkar, Modern India 1885–1947, p.406.
43. Smith, Conflict Over Convoys, p.152.
44. Ibid., p.156.
45. Mackay, Half the Battle, p.201.
46. Collingham, The Taste of War, pp.387–9.
47. Oddy, From Plain Fare to Fusion Food, p.134.
48. Ibid., pp.165, 209.
49. Jackson, Botswana 1939–1945, p.156; Wright, The World and a Very Small Place in Africa, p.195.
50. Collingham, The Taste of War, p.126.
1. ‘A Christmas pudding’, pp.300–301.
2. Ibid., p.301.
3. Ibid., p.302.
4. Ibid., p.302–3.
5. Ibid., p.303.
6. Ibid., p.303–4.
7. ‘A Christmas pudding’, p.301.
8. Hervey, The Book of Christmas, pp.106–7.
9. Ibid., p.277.
10. ‘A Christmas pudding’, p.301.
11. Moore, Victorian Christmas in Print, pp.66–7.
12. Mintz, ‘The changing roles of food’, pp.267, 271–2.
13. Breen, ‘Empire of goods’, pp. 491–6.
14. Oddy, From Plain Fare to Fusion Food, p.134.
15. Mintz, ‘Time, sugar and sweetness’, p.366.
16. ‘A Christmas pudding’, p.301.
17. Cited by Weaver, The Great Land Rush and the Making of the Modern World, 1650–1900, p.4.
18. Ibid., p.5.
19. O’Brien and Engerman, ‘Exports and the growth of the British economy from the Glorious Revolution to the Peace of Amiens’, p.179; Hobsbawm, The Age of Extremes, p.289.
20. Cosgrove et al., ‘Colonialism, international trade and the nation-state’, p.234.
21. Bayly, The Birth of the Modern World, 1780–1914, p.418.
22. Higgs, Cocoa, Slavery and Colonial Africa, p.3.
23. Higgs, ‘Happiness and work’, pp.58, 68.
24. Trentmann, ‘Coping with shortage’, p.17.
25. Ibid., pp.20–1.
26. Spiekermann, ‘Vollkorn für die Führer’, p.95.
27. Hall, ‘The food supply of the Empire’, p.5.
28. Ibid., pp.20, 30.
29. Day, ‘One family and Empire Christmas pudding’.
30. Ibid.; O’Connor, ‘The King’s Christmas pudding’, p.146.
31. O’Connor, ‘The King’s Christmas pudding’, p.127.
32. Spiekermann, ‘Brown bread for victory’, pp.144–9.
33. Tooze, The Wages of Destruction, p.469.
34. Carey, ‘John Derricke’s Image of Irelande’, p.306; Madajzyk, ‘Vom “Generalplan Ost” zum “Generalsiedlungsplan”’, p.16; Roth, ‘“Generalplan Ost” – “Gesamtplan Ost”’, pp.40–1.
35. Food Statistics Pocket Book 2014, p.26.
36. MacRae, God Speed the Plough, p.9.
37. Tye, ‘“A poor man’s meal”’, p.344.
38. Ibid., p.335.
39. Goucher, Congotay! Congotay!, p.129; McWilliams, A Revolution in Eating, pp.45–7.
40. McCann, Maize and Grace, p.viii.
41. Peters, ‘National preferences and colonial cuisine’, pp.152–3.
42. Ichijo and Ranta, Food, National Identity and Nationalism, pp.9–10.
43. Kirkpatrick, ‘A uniquely American holiday’ (accessed 23 March 2017).
44. Moore, Victorian Christmas in Print, p.142.
45. O’Connor, ‘The King’s Christmas pudding’, p.133.
46. ‘The turkey at Christmas’ (accessed 17 March 2017).
47. Fielding, Bridget Jones’s Diary, pp.8−9, 13.
48. Ibid., p.7.
49. Ibid., p.13.
50. With thanks to Ruth Goodall for supplying me with her post-Christmas turkey curry recipe.