Holding out for regional produce may seem absurdly romantic, or even a little stubborn, but there’s no denying the thrill when, after months of potatoes, apples, and sturdy greens, suddenly asparagus appears in full force at the market. Finally, spring has arrived.
Anticipation is half the fun. Celebrating the return of a favorite food is a pleasure. In France, there’s a charming custom of drinking a toast to first-of-the-season produce, especially asparagus, after a long, cold winter.
I prefer to prepare the early crop as simply as possible: briefly boiled, quickly stir-fried, or even raw. Cooking time is crucial. Generally speaking, it’s better to err on the bright side of slightly undercooked than risk veering into the sad army-drab territory of several minutes too long. Grilling or roasting asparagus has become popular, but it’s not the method I use for early asparagus. Later, though, toward the end of the season, when the flavor of asparagus becomes a bit grassy, the slight char of the grill or roasting pan is welcome, as is more aggressive seasoning.
Perfectly Steamed Asparagus
When peeling asparagus, lay them flat and use a light touch.
Simmering asparagus briefly in well-salted water is the way for first-of-the-season asparagus. A stellar first course or a light lunch.
1½ pounds large or medium asparagus
1 small shallot, finely diced
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
4 soft-center hard-cooked eggs (see How to Boil an Egg), halved or quartered
1 tablespoon finely snipped chives
Snap off and discard the tough bottom ends of the asparagus spears. If using large asparagus, peel the lower ends with a vegetable peeler; medium asparagus does not need peeling.
To make the vinaigrette, put the shallot, vinegar, and a pinch of salt in a small bowl and let the shallot soften for 5 minutes. Stir in the mustard to dissolve, then whisk in the olive oil to make a thick dressing. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Bring 4 quarts well-salted water to a rolling boil in a large nonreactive pot. Add the asparagus and cook for 3 to 5 minutes, until just done. (Alternatively, cook the asparagus in a steamer.) Remove the asparagus with a large spider or tongs and spread out on a baking sheet lined with a clean kitchen towel. The asparagus can be served warm or at room temperature.
To serve, place the asparagus on a platter or individual plates. Spoon the vinaigrette over it, garnish with the halved or quartered eggs, and sprinkle with the chives. Makes 4 servings
Shaved Asparagus Salad
You can get asparagus from South America all winter long, and early spring asparagus from Mexico and Southern California. This is not a dish to make with those. You need sweet, just-picked asparagus, preferably from your local farmers’ market, for this simple salad of raw asparagus ribbons. Accompany with a platter of sliced prosciutto if desired.
½ pound large or medium asparagus
2 tablespoons lemon juice
3 tablespoons fruity extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
6 ounces arugula, washed and dried
A chunk of Parmesan, for shaving
Snap off and discard the tough bottom ends of the asparagus. Slice the asparagus lengthwise into paper-thin ribbons.
To make the dressing, whisk together the lemon juice and olive oil in a small bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Place the asparagus ribbons in a shallow salad bowl. Season lightly with salt and pepper, add half the dressing, and toss to coat. Add the arugula, tossing gently to distribute the asparagus. Drizzle with the remaining dressing. With a vegetable peeler, shave thin curls of Parmesan over the salad. Makes 4 servings
Shave asparagus with a mandoline, if you have one, or cut slices with a thin-bladed knife on a long diagonal.
Spicy Asparagus Stir-Fry
Asparagus doesn’t have to be treated as a delicate, fragile thing, napped only with butter or a creamy sauce, or served plain with olive oil and salt. That’s fine for the first few weeks of the season, but then it’s time to dial up the interest factor and add some spice. Asparagus actually stands up quite well to assertive flavors. A quick toss in a hot wok with garlic, ginger, and chiles doesn’t overwhelm it at all, at least if you don’t overcook the spears. Instead, the vegetable’s sweetness becomes accentuated by contrast.
1½ pounds medium or pencil asparagus
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 or 3 small dried red chile peppers
Salt and pepper
½ teaspoon fermented bean paste
1 teaspoon grated or minced garlic
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
½ teaspoon grated orange zest
1 jalapeño or serrano chile, finely chopped (seeds removed if desired)
2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
½ cup roughly chopped cilantro
3 scallions, slivered
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
Snap off and discard the bottom ends of the asparagus, then cut into 2-inch pieces (halve any thicker pieces lengthwise).
Set a wok or wide skillet over high heat and add the vegetable oil. Add the dried chiles and let sizzle for a moment or so, then add the asparagus, tossing well to coat. Season with salt and pepper and stir-fry for a minute or so, then add the bean paste, garlic, ginger, orange zest, and jalapeño and continue stir-frying for a minute, maybe less, until the asparagus is cooked but still firm and bright green. (It will continue cooking briefly off the heat.)
Mound the asparagus on a serving platter and drizzle with the sesame oil. Sprinkle the cilantro, scallions, and sesame seeds over the top. Makes 4 servings
White Asparagus with Savory Whipped Cream
White asparagus can be sublime. In Europe, they are highly prized as a springtime delicacy. Usually cigar-sized, they have a sweet flavor, tinged with a pleasant faint bitterness, and are most often served at room temperature with a rich, creamy sauce (termed sauce onctueuse on Parisian menus). On this side of the pond, white asparagus tends to be skinnier, and scarcer, but it is no less delicious. White asparagus spears always need peeling and take a little longer to become tender. So they really are rather different from the green. I serve mine with a garnish of light savory whipped cream. It’s like crème Chantilly, but for vegetables.
1 cup heavy cream
Salt and pepper
Pinch of cayenne
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard (or ½ teaspoon dry mustard)
2 teaspoons finely sliced chives, plus more for garnish
2 teaspoons chopped chervil, plus more for garnish
2 teaspoons chopped tarragon, plus more for garnish
1 pound white asparagus
4 slices prosciutto (optional)
To make the savory whipped cream, beat the cream in a bowl with a whisk or electric mixer only until it begins to thicken—keep it quite loose. Season with salt and pepper and the cayenne. Dilute the mustard with some of the cream in a small bowl, then fold the mustard mixture into the rest of the cream with a rubber spatula. Fold in the chives, chervil, and chopped tarragon. (Notice that the cream will thicken with each addition, so be careful not to agitate it too much. You want it not quite pourable, but nearly.)
Cut off the tough bottoms of the asparagus and discard. With a vegetable peeler, lightly peel each spear, beginning just under the tip.
Bring a deep wide nonreactive skillet of well-salted water to a boil. Add the asparagus and simmer until tender when pierced with a paring knife, 8 to 10 minutes. Lift the asparagus from the water with a spider or tongs and spread out on a towel-lined baking sheet to cool.
To serve, divide the asparagus among four plates. Spoon the savory whipped cream generously across the spears, leaving the tips exposed. Sprinkle with chives, chervil, and tarragon. Drape with the prosciutto if desired. Makes 4 servings
Savory Whipped Cream, Other Ways
When flavoring whipped cream, consider saffron and lemon zest, or a bright mixture of curry spices. Try savory whipped cream with other vegetables, or spoon on a dollop to garnish a bowl of pureed vegetable soup. It’s also very good with salmon (smoked, poached, or grilled).