What we call sweet peppers are a nonspicy cultivar of the species Capsicum annuum (native to Central and South America, where they predominantly exist as hot chiles). They are often called bell peppers, owing to their shape, but are also known simply as capsicums in a number of English-speaking countries. The bell peppers we encounter now have no capsaicin (the stuff that gives hot chiles their bite), or very little; they are fleshy, juicy, and sweet, delicious raw, sautéed, or roasted. Bells come in assorted colors—you can find bright red, orange, and yellow ones at most supermarkets. Green (unripe) bell peppers have mostly crunch to offer, but some people enjoy them cooked. The supermarket hothouse peppers from Holland and elsewhere are usually waiting for you year-round; perfect specimens, yes, but with flavor a secondary consideration.
The true season for peppers is late summer, just as for tomatoes. They do best in a hot climate, standing up to the harsh sun, taking their time. Some of the best, sweetest peppers are harvested in August and September. All peppers are green in their infancy, turning red or orange as they begin to ripen. At the farmers’ market these days, other quite colorful varieties of sweet pepper are available—long Italian types like Corno di Toro, some with playful names like Gypsy, Lipstick, Orange Blaze, and Carmen. Some are the palest green, others are violet, brick-hued, or even dark as chocolate.
Sweet peppers in season are simply delightful—thinly sliced for salads and pastas, or stuffed and baked. It’s no trouble at all to roast and peel sweet peppers for antipasti, a worthwhile habit to acquire. A freshly roasted sweet pepper, simply paired with good fresh mozzarella or ricotta, is welcome and gorgeous.
Fire-Roasted Peppers
For perfect roasted peppers, use a clever tool like this asador, a stovetop grill, which fits over a gas burner.
Roasting peppers on a stovetop burner or over hot coals is easier than you might think, and a much fresher-tasting alternative to those from a can or jar. Get out your tongs and place your peppers straight on the flame (or over the coals) or on an asador, then cook, turning them, until the skin is completely blackened and blistered all over—it should take 10 minutes. Put them on a plate to cool. (Some recommend putting the blackened peppers in a bag or covered container to steam, but I never do, because the residual heat cooks them too much for my taste.) Once they are cool, cut them lengthwise in half, remove the stems, and scrape away the seeds with a paring knife; then flip them over and scrape away the skin. Don’t worry about a few charred flecks, and don’t even think about rinsing them: You’d lose all the tasty juices and smoky aroma, and have waterlogged peppers to boot. Once roasted, they will keep for a week, refrigerated, so you can slice them on demand for salads, antipasti, and pizzas.
Roasted Pepper Salad
For the simplest roasted pepper salad, cut the pepper flesh into strips and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Toss with a drizzle of fruity olive oil and a few drops of red wine vinegar. Add torn basil leaves and serve at room temperature.
Roasted Pepper and Walnut Spread
This is a rendition of the spicy Middle Eastern dip called muhammara, marrying roasted peppers with toasted walnuts and a touch of pomegranate molasses for its puckery sour flavor. I keep a little jar of the rust-colored stuff in the fridge, ready to spread on crisp grilled flatbread. Pair this spread with the equally savory Smoky Turkish Eggplant for a cocktail party.
2 medium red bell peppers, roasted, seeded, and peeled (see Fire-Roasted Peppers)
½ cup walnuts, lightly toasted
1 garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon pimentón
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
½ teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted and ground
½ teaspoon coriander seeds, toasted and ground
½ teaspoon salt, or to taste
⅛ teaspoon cayenne
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon walnut oil (optional)
1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses
Cut the peppers into long thin strips, then cut them crosswise into very small dice. Chop the pepper flesh with a large knife (as if chopping parsley) as fine as possible, almost to a puree. Transfer to a bowl.
Chop the walnuts as fine as possible and add to the peppers. Add the garlic, pimentón, paprika, cumin, coriander, salt, and cayenne. Whisk in the olive oil, walnut oil, if using, and pomegranate molasses and continue beating for a minute or so to meld the ingredients. (Or, if you’re in a hurry, put everything in a food processor and give it a whirl. Do keep the texture rough. The color won’t be as vibrant.) Leave to rest for a few minutes, then taste and adjust the seasoning. Makes 1½ cups
Note: To store, pack the mixture into a small jar and drizzle a film of olive oil over the top. It keeps refrigerated for up to a week.
Pepper Salad with Feta
A fine rustic snack is a good piece of sheep’s-milk feta cheese anointed with olive oil. There is something primal about the two combined flavors. Sometimes I make a little meal of it. Not much else is needed other than bread and wine. But in season, sliced ripe peppers, sweet onions, and cherry tomatoes are a welcome addition, seasoned aggressively with garlic, hot pepper, and oregano. That’s my idea of a simple Greek salad.
1 red bell pepper, very thinly sliced
1 yellow bell pepper, very thinly sliced
1 large red onion, very thinly sliced
A handful of cherry tomatoes, halved
2 garlic cloves, minced
Pinch of crushed red pepper
Salt and pepper
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon chopped basil
1 tablespoon chopped mint
3 ounces feta cheese, in rough chunks
Pinch of dried oregano, wild if possible
Put the bell peppers, onion, tomatoes, garlic, and crushed red pepper in a large salad bowl. Season generously with salt and black pepper. Add the olive oil and vinegar and toss well. Add the parsley, basil, and mint and toss again. Scatter the feta cheese over the top of the salad, sprinkle with the dried oregano, and serve. Makes 4 servings
Peperonata
Similar to eggplant caponata flavorwise, this is a savory stew of colorful sweet peppers and red onion, slowly cooked in olive oil, spiked with vinegar and capers. Usually served at room temperature, peperonata can be part of an antipasto, paired with fresh mozzarella or good canned tuna, but it can also be a perky accompaniment to just about any kind of fish, meat, or fowl.
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 red bell pepper, very thinly sliced
1 yellow bell pepper, very thinly sliced
1 large red onion, very thinly sliced
Salt and pepper
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 teaspoon capers, roughly chopped
Pinch of crushed red pepper
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon chopped basil
Pinch of dried oregano
A handful of good olives (optional)
Put the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the bell peppers and onion, season generously with salt and black pepper, and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 5 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic, capers, crushed red pepper, and vinegar and cook for 1 minute more. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
Transfer the peperonata to a serving platter and sprinkle with the parsley, basil, and dried oregano. Serve at room temperature, garnished with the olives if desired. Makes 4 to 6 servings
Note: It’s a good idea to make peperonata a day or two in advance of serving so the flavors can meld.
Baked Peppers with Feta and Bread Crumbs
Sweet peppers seem destined for stuffing, given their shape and hollow interior. Cooks around the globe fill them with cheese, meat, or rice. Some versions are highly seasoned and complex, while others are dull and stodgy—I was raised on the latter, sad to say. But now there are all kinds of delightful sweet peppers available, in every color and size. I found some diminutive, colorful Gypsy peppers at the market one day and came up with this dish, which actually qualifies as dainty and delicate. They’re especially nice served with Melted Spinach.
6 thick slices day-old French bread, crust removed
3 tablespoons olive oil
3 garlic cloves, grated or minced
3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 teaspoons chopped thyme
1 teaspoon chopped rosemary
1 ounce Parmesan, grated
Salt and pepper
6 very small sweet peppers (see headnote; about 1 pound)
6 ounces mild feta cheese, crumbled
Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Cut the bread into 1-inch cubes and pulse in a food processor in batches to make coarse, soft crumbs. (It should yield about 3 cups.)
Toss the crumbs with the olive oil and spread on a baking sheet. Bake, stirring often, until the crumbs are crisp and barely browned, about 15 minutes.
Put the baked crumbs in a bowl and add the garlic, parsley, thyme, rosemary, and Parmesan. Season with salt and black pepper and toss well. Set aside.
Cut the peppers lengthwise in half and remove the cores and seeds. Place skin side down in a shallow baking dish in one layer. Season lightly with salt. Fill each pepper half with about 3 tablespoons crumbled feta and press in the cheese with your fingers. With a spoon, divide the seasoned crumbs evenly among the pepper halves.
Bake for about 30 minutes, until the crumbs are golden and the cheese is softened. Serve warm from the baking dish. Makes 6 servings