Víazul Bus Departures from Havana
Check the most up-to-date departure times on www.viazul.com.
Destination | Cost (CUC$) | Duration (hr) | Departures |
---|---|---|---|
Bayamo | 44 | 13 | 12:30am, 6:30am, 3pm |
Camagüey | 33 | 9 | 12:30am, 6:30am, 9:30am, 3pm, 7:45pm |
Ciego de Ávila | 27 | 7 | 12:30am, 6:30am, 3pm, 7:45pm |
Cienfuegos | 20 | 4 | 7am, 10:45am, 2:15pm |
Holguín | 44 | 12 | 9:30am, 3pm, 7:45pm |
Las Tunas | 39 | 11½ | 12:30am, 6:30am, 9:30am, 3pm, 7:45pm |
Matanzas | 7 | 2 | 6am, 8am, 1pm, 5:30pm |
Pinar del Río | 11 | 3 | 8:40am, 11:25am, 2pm |
Sancti Spíritus | 23 | 5¾ | 12:30am, 6:30am, 3pm |
Santa Clara | 18 | 3¾ | 12:30am, 6:30am, 9:30am, 3pm, 7:45pm |
Santiago de Cuba | 51 | 15 | 12:30am, 6:30am, 3pm |
Trinidad | 25 | 5-6 | 7am, 10:45am, 2:15pm |
Varadero | 10 | 3 | 6am, 8am, 1pm, 5:30pm |
Viñales | 12 | 4 | 8:40am, 11:25am, 2pm |
Taxi
Full buses are the norm in Cuba these days, as public transportation hasn't yet caught up with the increase in tourist numbers. To counter the shortfall, many travelers are turning to colectivos (shared taxis). Taxis charge approximately CUC$0.50 to CUC$0.60 per kilometer. This translates as around CUC$90 to Varadero, CUC$90 to Viñales, CUC$150 to Santa Clara, CUC$120 to Cienfuegos and CUC$160 to Trinidad. A colectivo can take up to four people, meaning you can share the cost. Colectivos can usually be organized through your casa particular, at an Infotur office or by negotiating at a standard pick-up point. It's also usually pretty easy to arrange a colectivo at the Víazul bus terminal.
Train
Trains to most parts of Cuba depart from La Coubre station (
GOOGLE MAP
; Túnel de la Habana), while the Estación Central de Ferrocarriles (Central Train Station;
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-861-8540, 7-862-1920; cnr Av de Bélgica & Arsenal) is being refurbished until 2018 or later. La Coubre is on the southwestern side of Habana Vieja; from the main station, head down Calle Egido toward the harbor and turn right. The ticket office is located 100m down the road on the right-hand side. If it's closed, try the Lista de Espera office adjacent, which sells tickets for trains leaving immediately. Kids under 12 travel half-price.
At the time of research, Cuba's main train (No 11), the Tren Francés (still using its increasingly dilapidated French SNCF carriages), was running every fourth day between Havana and Santiago, stopping in Santa Clara and Camagüey. It leaves Havana at 6:13pm and arrives in Santiago the following morning at 10:05am. There are no sleeper cars or air-con. Tickets cost CUC$30 for 1st class (which is nothing like usual 1st class). Bring plenty of food, water and toilet paper (the toilets are legendary – for all the wrong reasons). The journey, without delays, takes 16 hours.
The other train services are the No 15 to Guantánamo (CUC$32) leaving every fourth day at 6:53pm; the No 13 to Bayamo (CUC$25.50) and Manzanillo (CUC$27.50) leaving every fourth day at 7:25pm; and the No 7 to Sancti Spíritus (CUC$15) leaving every other day at 9:21pm.
Trains to Cienfuegos (CUC$12) and Pinar del Río (CUC$7) leave from 19 de Noviembre station every other day.
The above information is only a rough approximation; services are routinely delayed or canceled. Always double-check scheduling and which terminal your train will leave from.
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
Public transportation from the airport into central Havana is practically nonexistent. A standard taxi will cost you approximately CUC$20 to CUC$25 (30 to 40 minutes).
Boat
Passenger ferries shuttle across the harbor to Regla and Casablanca, leaving every 15 or 20 minutes from the recently refurbished terminal Emboque de Luz ( GOOGLE MAP ), at the corner of San Pedro and Santa Clara, on the southeast side of Habana Vieja. The fare is a flat 10 centavos, but foreigners are often charged CUC$1. There's a quick bag search before you get on.
Cruise ships dock at the Terminal Sierra Maestra – Cruise Terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ), adjacent to Plaza de San Francisco de Asís on the cusp of Habana Vieja.
Bus
The handy hop-on, hop-off Habana Bus Tour ( GOOGLE MAP ) runs on two routes: T1 and T3 (route T2 had been suspended at the time of research). The main stop is in Parque Central opposite the Hotel Inglaterra. This is the pick-up point for bus T1, which runs from Habana Vieja via Centro Habana, the Malecón, Calle 23 and Plaza de la Revolución to La Cecilia at the west end of Playa; and bus T3, which runs from Centro Habana to Playas del Este (via Parque Histórico Militar Morro-Cabaña).
Bus T1 is an open-top double-decker. Bus T3 is an enclosed single-decker. All-day tickets for T1/T3 are CUC$10/5. Services run from 9am to 7pm and routes and stops are clearly marked on all bus stops. Beware: these bus routes and times have been known to change. Check the latest route maps at the bus stop in Parque Central.
Havana's metro bus service calls on a relatively modern fleet of Chinese-made 'bendy' buses and is far less dilapidated than it used to be. These buses run regularly along 17 different routes, connecting most parts of the city with the suburbs. Fares are 40 centavos (five centavos if you're using convertibles), which you deposit into a small slot in front of the driver when you enter. Cuban buses are crowded and little used by tourists. Guard your valuables closely.
All bus routes have the prefix P before their number:
AP-1 La Rosita–Playa (via Virgen del Camino, Vedado, Línea, Av 3)
AP-2 Alberro–Línea y G (via Vibora and Ciudad Deportiva)
AP-3 Alamar–Túnel de Línea (via Virgen del Camino and Vibora)
AP-4 San Agustín–Terminal de Trenes (via Playa, Calle 23, La Rampa)
AP-5 San Agustín–Terminal de Trenes (via Lisa, Av 31, Línea, Av de Puerto)
AP-6 Reparto Eléctrico–La Rampa (via Vibora)
AP-7 Alberro–Capitolio (via Virgen del Camino)
AP-8 Reparto Eléctrico–Villa Panamericano (via Vibora, Capitolio and harbor tunnel)
AP-9 Vibora–Hospital Militar (via Cuatro Caminos, La Rampa, Calle 23, Av 41)
AP-10 Vibora–Playa (via Altahabana and Calle 100)
AP-11 Alamar–Vedado (via harbor tunnel)
AP-12 Santiago de las Vegas–Capitolio (via Av Boyeros)
AP-13 Santiago de las Vegas–Vibora (via Calabazar)
AP-14 San Agustín–Capitolio (via Lisa and Av 51)
AP-15 Alamar/Guanabacoa–Capitolio (via Av Boyeros and Calle G)
AP-16 Santiago de las Vegas–Vedado (via Calle 100 and Lisa)
APC Hospital Naval–Playa (via Parque Lenin)
Infotur offices publish a free map of Havana metro bus routes called Por La Habana en P.
Car
There are lots of car-rental offices in Havana, so if you're told there are no cars or there isn't one in your price range, try another office or agency. All agencies have offices at Terminal 3 at Aeropuerto Internacional José Martí. Otherwise, there's a car-rental desk in any three-star (or higher) hotel. Prices vary depending on the make of car, rental period and season. The cheapest you'll get is around CUC$55 per day. An average medium-sized rental would be closer to CUC$75 per day.
ACubacar has desks at most of the big hotels, including Meliá Cohiba, Meliá Habana, Iberostar Parque Central, Habana Libre and Sevilla.
Rex Rent a Car (
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-836-7788; www.rex.cu; cnr Línea & Malecón, Vedado;
h9am-5pm) rents fancy cars for extortionate prices.
AServi-Cupet gas stations are in Vedado at Calles L and 17; Malecón and Calle 15; Malecón and Paseo near the Riviera and Meliá Cohiba hotels; and on Av de la Independencia (northbound lane) south of Plaza de la Revolución. All are open 24 hours a day.
Taxi
Taxis hang around outside all the major tourist hotels, outside the two main bus stations and at various city-center nexus points such as Parque Central and Parque de la Fraternidad. You're never far from a taxi in Havana.
The most common taxis are the yellow cabs of Cubataxi (
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-796-6666; Calle 478, btwn Av 7 & 7B). Other taxis might be Ladas, old American cars or modern Toyotas.
Always agree a fare before you get in. The cheapest official cabs charge around CUC$1 as the starting fare, then CUC$0.50 per kilometer.
Since 2011 legal private taxis have become more common, though they're often older yellow-and-black Ladas. You've got more chance haggling here, but agree on the fare before getting into the car. If you're non-Cuban you'll be expected to pay in convertibles (CUC$).
Shared Cuban taxis (usually old American cars) charge in moneda nacional and run on several well-established routes in Havana.
The small yellow egg-shaped 'Coco taxis' are a well-known tourist rip-off.
As economic standards nosedived during the early 1990s, the nation’s sporting prowess moved in the other direction, peaking at the 1992 Barcelona Olympics when Cuba (the world’s 106th-largest nation) came fifth in the overall medals table with 14 gold. The Cubans continue to excel in baseball, boxing, volleyball and high jump (Javier Sotomayor has held the world record since 1993). Soccer is a growing sport attracting an ever-expanding fan base, particularly since the 2014 FIFA World Cup. Havana’s main sporting stadiums are located in the peripheral municipalities of Playa, Cerro and Habana del Este. Going to a game is an experience. No bookings are required; just turn up, pay the nominal ticket price and find a (hard) seat.
Estadio Latinoamericano ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Zequiera No 312, Cerro; tickets CUC$2) The largest stadium in the country holds 55,000 and was built before the revolution in 1946. It’s the home of Havana’s Los Industriales baseball team. Entrance to games costs small change. The season is from late October to April with playoffs running until May.
Estadio Pedro Marrero ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Av 41 & Calle 46, Kohly) This slightly down-at-heel Playa stadium holds 28,000 spectators and is home to FC Ciudad de La Habana, the city’s main soccer team, who have won the Campeonato Nacional de Fútbol six times.
Estadio Panamericano ( GOOGLE MAP ) The shabby Estadio Panamericano was built for the 1991 Pan American Games. It was fitted with a new athletics track in 2008 but still looks neglected and unloved. It’s used mainly for athletics and soccer.
Coliseo de la Ciudad Deportiva ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Av de la Independencia & Vía Blanca, Cerro) This multiuse 15,000-capacity indoor sports arena opened in 1958. It's the headquarters of the national men’s volleyball team, and in 2016 the surrounding grounds hosted the Rolling Stones' first Cuban rock concert.
Beyond its jaunty downtown, Havana supports another 12 municipalities. Most visitors with time to spare hit the diplomatic and convention quarter of Playa in the west or head to the sandy beaches of Playas del Este in the east. Less frequented are the historic but undone neighborhoods of Guanabacoa and Regla, and the unkempt greenery of Parque Lenin near the airport.
Playa, west of Vedado across the Río Almendares, is a large, complex municipality. For the sake of clarity, it can be split into several contrasting sub-neighborhoods. Gracious Miramar is a leafy diplomatic quarter of broad avenues, weeping laurel trees and fine private restaurants; Cubanacán, further west, plays host to scientific fairs, business conventions, and biotechnological and pharmaceutical research institutes; Jaimanitas, hugging the shoreline, broadcasts the street-art extravaganza Fusterlandia; while Santa Fé is anchored by the Marina Hemingway, Havana's premier, if slightly decrepit, boat marina. The separate municipality of Marianao is south of Playa.
Playa & Marianao
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
3Entertainment
7Shopping
1Sights
oFusterlandiaPUBLIC ART
(
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Calle 226 & Av 3)F
Where does art go after Gaudí? For a hint, head west from central Havana to the seemingly low-key district of Jaimanitas, where Cuban artist José Fuster has turned his home neighborhood into a masterpiece of intricate tilework and kaleidoscopic colors – a street-art extravaganza that makes Barcelona’s Park Güell look positively sedate. Imagine Gaudí on steroids relocated to a tropical setting.
The result is what is unofficially known as Fusterlandia, an ongoing project first hatched around 20 years ago that has covered several suburban blocks with whimsical but highly stylized public art. The centerpiece is Fuster’s own house, Taller-Estudio José Fuster (
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Calle 226 & Av 3; h9am-4pm Wed-Sun), a sizable residence decorated from roof to foundations by art, sculpture and – above all – mosaic tiles of every color and description. The overall impression defies written description (just go!), a fantastical mishmash of spiraling walkways, rippling pools and sunburst fountains. The work mixes homages to Picasso and Gaudí with snippets of Gauguin and Wifredo Lam, elements of magic realism, strong maritime influences, Santería, the curvaceous lines of modernisme, plus a large dose of Fuster’s own Cubanness, which runs through almost everything. Look for the Cuban flags, a mural of the Granma yacht, and the words 'Viva Cuba' emblazoned across eight chimney pots.
Fusterlandia stretches way beyond Fuster’s own residence. Over half the neighborhood has been given similar artistic treatment, from street signs to bus stops to the local doctor’s house. Wandering around its quiet streets is a surreal and psychedelic experience.
Jaimanitas is located just off Quinta Avenida (Av 5) in the far west of Playa, sandwiched between Club Havana and Marina Hemingway. A taxi from central Havana will cost CUC$12 to CUC$15.
Iglesia Jesús de MiramarCHURCH
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Av 5 & Calle 82; h9am-noon & 4-6pm)
Despite its modernity, Playa cradles Cuba's second-largest church, an aesthetically pleasing neo-Romanesque structure topped by a giant dome. Built in 1948, it protects Cuba's largest pipe organ and – best of all – a set of truly amazing stations of the cross painted directly onto the walls by Spaniard Cesareo Hombrados Oñativia in the 1950s.
La Casa de las Tejas VerdesHISTORIC BUILDING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-212-5282; Calle 2 No 308, btwn Avs 3 & 5;
hby appointment)
F
Emerging from the tunnel under the Río Almendares, your first glimpse of Miramar is the so-called 'house of the green tiles,' a subtle hint of the eclecticism to come: this is the only example of Queen Anne architecture in Cuba. The house was built in 1926, and, for most of its existence, was the home of a semifamous Havana socialite, Luisa Rodríguez Faxas, who lived here from 1943 to 1999.
After Faxas' death the house was passed to the Cuban government who restored and opened it as an architectural study center in 2010. It's not strictly a museum, but management runs free tours by appointment on selective days; phone ahead.
Marina HemingwayMARINA
( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Av 5 & Calle 248)
Havana’s premier marina was constructed in 1953 in the small coastal community of Santa Fé. After the revolution it was nationalized and named after Castro’s favorite Yanqui. The marina has four 800m-long channels, a dive center, a motley collection of shops and restaurants, and two hotels (one currently disused), so it's only worth visiting if you’re docking your boat or utilizing the water-sports facilities.
Like much of Cuba’s infrastructure, the place retains a strangely abandoned air and is crying out for a renovation.
Club HabanaHISTORIC BUILDING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-204-5700; Av 5, btwn Calles 188 & 192; day pass CUC$20;
h9am-7pm)
This fabulously eclectic 1928 mansion in Flores once housed the Havana Biltmore Yacht & Country Club. These days the establishment seems to have swung full circle and it is again a popular hangout for foreign correspondents and diplomats. The club has its own beach, swimming pool, tennis courts, bar, boutiques and health club. Annual membership is costly, but should you wish to hobnob spontaneously with the high and mighty, you can get a daily pass for CUC$20.
In the 1950s the establishment gained brief notoriety when it famously denied entry to Cuban president Fulgencio Batista on the grounds that he was ‘black.’ Castro had better luck when he dropped by for dinner some 30 years later and the club remains one of the few places where he dined in public.
Parque AlmendaresPARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Running along the banks of the Río Almendares, below the bridge on Calle 23, is this welcome oasis of greenery and fresh air in the heart of the chaotic city. Parque Almendares might not be the Bois de Boulogne (witness the stray dogs and half-wrecked toilets), but it is a work in progress and far healthier than it was a decade ago. Benches now line the river promenade and plants grow profusely, though the river water is far from crystal clear.
The park has a stash of so-so facilities, including an antiquated miniature golf course, the Anfiteatro Parque Almendares (a small outdoor performance space), a playground and a dinosaur park containing stone reproductions of the monstrous reptiles.
Museo de la AlfabetizaciónMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Av 29e & Calle 76; h8am-noon & 1-3pm Tue-Fri, 8am-noon Sat)
F
The former Cuartel Colombia military airfield at Marianao is now a school complex called Ciudad Libertad. Pass through the gate to visit this inspiring museum, which describes the 1961 literacy campaign, when 100,000 youths aged 12 to 18 spread out across Cuba to teach reading and writing to farmers, workers and seniors.
In the center of the traffic circle, opposite the entrance to the complex, is a tower in the form of a syringe in memory of Carlos Juan Finlay, who discovered the cause of yellow fever in 1881.
Fundación Naturaleza y El HombreMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-209-2885; Av 5b No 6611, btwn Calles 66 & 70; CUC$2;
h8:30am-3pm Mon-Fri)
This tiny museum seems to confirm the old adage that 'small is beautiful,' displaying artifacts from a 17,422km canoe trip from the Amazon source to the sea, led by Cuban intellectual and anthropologist António Núñez Jiménez in 1987. Exhibits in this astounding array of items include one of Cuba's largest photography collections, books written by the prolific Núñez Jiménez, his beloved canoe, and a famous portrait of Fidel by Ecuadorian painter Oswaldo Guayasamín.
The museum is part of a nonprofit foundation and one of Havana's most rewarding.
Acuario NacionalAQUARIUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-202-5872; cnr Av 3 & Calle 62; adult/child CUC$10/7;
h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
Founded in 1960, the national aquarium is a Havana institution that gets legions of annual visitors. Despite its rather scruffy appearance, this place leaves most other Cuban acuarios (aquatic centers) in the shade (which isn't saying much). Saltwater fish are the specialty, but there are also sea lions and dolphins, including hourly dolphin shows. Note, however, that dolphin performances are widely criticized by animal welfare groups who claim the captivity of such complex marine mammals is debilitating and stressful for the animals.
La Maqueta de la CapitalMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Calle 28 No 113, btwn Avs 1 & 3; CUC$3; h9:30am-5pm Mon-Fri)
Havana itself is somewhat dilapidated in parts and so, ironically, is this huge 1:1000 scale model of the city that looks like it could do with a good dusting. The model was originally created for urban-planning purposes, but is now a tourist attraction. It is going through a protracted renovation, but can usually still be viewed.
Nearby, the two parks on Av 5, between Calles 24 and 26, with their immense banyan trees and shady lanes, are an atmospheric pocket.
Isla del CocoAMUSEMENT PARK
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Av 5 & Calle 112, Playa; CUC$5; hnoon-8pm Fri-Sun)
A huge Chinese-built amusement park in western Playa with big wheels, bumper cars, roller coasters, the works.
2Activities
Marlin NáuticaWATER SPORTS
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nauticamarlin.tur.cu; Av 5 & Calle 248, Marina Hemingway, Barlovento)
There are several water activities available at Marina Hemingway in Barlovento, 20km west of central Havana. Marlin Náutica runs fishing trips for four anglers and four hours of deep-sea fishing for around CUC$310, including tackle and an open bar; marlin season is June to October. Catamaran tours of Havana's littoral (CUC$60) are also available (four-person minimum).
It's usually easier to book with a tour agency in the city center.
La Aguja Marlin Diving CenterDIVING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-209-3377; Av 5 & Calle 248, Marina Hemingway, Barlovento)
Between Marlin Náutica and the shopping center at Marina Hemingway, this center offers scuba diving for CUC$40 per dive. Initiation courses are CUC$25. Departures are at 9am daily. A diving excursion to Playa Girón where the diving's much better can also be arranged.
In 1816 the reformist bishop of Havana, Juan Diaz de Espada, invited a French neoclassical painter named Jean Baptiste Vermay to Cuba with instructions to restore several important works of art in Havana’s cathedral (legend has it that Espada originally asked romantic master Goya, but the Spaniard was otherwise engaged and thus got a French friend to recommend Vermay instead). Vermay arrived, carried out his work diligently and, after striking up a friendship with the Cuban poet José María Heredia, elected to stay. It was a fortuitous decision. In 1818, Vermay, with the help of Bishop Espada, inauspiciously opened the Academia Nacional de Bellas Artes 'San Alejandro' ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Av 31 & Calle 100, Marianao), Cuba’s first art academy, a body that continues to operate to this day, making it the oldest artistic institution in Latin America.
Installed initially in Habana Vieja with Vermay as its first director, the San Alejandro moved to Centro Habana in the 1850s. Despite only welcoming whites in its early days, it quickly became a fertile breeding ground for Cuban painters.
Numerous illustrious names had soon passed through its doors, including José Martí, Victor Manuel Valdés, sculptor Rita Longa, pop artist Raúl Martínez and future rebel commander Camilo Cienfuegos. However, by the 1920s the academy and the climate it fostered had become increasingly staid and bogged down with copying European landscapes. Several former alumni traveled to France where they had their eyes opened by Picasso and Gauguin, and subsequently came together in the Vanguardia, a movement that served as a sharp slap to the creeping orthodoxy of the San Alejandro.
The academy subsequently reevaluated itself and adapted. In 1962 the campus was moved to Marianao, where it still resides in a monumental building at the entrance to the Ciudad Libertad (a former military barracks converted into educational establishments after the revolution). While no longer the only art school in Havana, the San Alejandro remains its most storied artistic institution and today runs various exchange projects with schools abroad.
4Sleeping
Playa's hotels are the preserve of diplomats, the convention crowd and people whose flights have been bumped. There are a couple of good ones amongst the dross, but the general location is detached from Havana's main sights and you'll need taxis or strong legs to get around.
Casa Guevara AlbaCASA PARTICULAR$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-202-6515; mt_alba@yahoo.es; Av 5f No 9611, btwn Calles 96 & 98; r CUC$35;
p
a)
A welcome homestay close to Playa's main hotel zone that outsmarts most of the other hotels when it comes to price, service and comfort. On offer are two apartments with bedrooms, sitting rooms, use of kitchen, outdoor terraces and bathrooms. It's modern for Cuba, but still has plenty of character.
Complejo Cultural La VitrolaHOTEL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-202-7922; Calle 18 No 103, btwn Avs 1 & 3; r CUC$30;
a)
Imagine staying at London's Abbey Road recording studios. Well, this is the Cuban equivalent. The Egrem studios – working space for Cuba's top musical artists – now has a lovely on-site hotel with five rooms that have bright interiors and song lyrics painted on the walls. Hang around in the downstairs Bar Bilongo and you might even bump into Silvio Rodríguez.
Villa TeresaCASA PARTICULAR$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-202-2799; marlene7667@yahoo.es; Ave 1 No 4401, cnr Calle 44; r incl breakfast CUC$100;
p
a
W)
A new private rental opposite the Hotel Copacabana in a conspicuously modern lily-white house that looks as if it's just been towed in from the Florida Keys. The four tastefully decorated rooms are boutique-hotel-worthy with good art, large beds and fully stocked minibars. Breakfast in the open-plan dining area and lounge is included.
Hotel Club AcuarioHOTEL$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-204-6336; Aviota & Calle 248; s/d CUC$80/119 all-inclusive;
p
a
i)
Don't come to Marina Hemingway for the hotels. With El Viejo y el Mar perennially on hiatus, the only real option is the strung-out Acuario, Havana's only all-inclusive option outside Playas del Este, splayed between two harbor channels and infested with cheap out-of-date furnishings. If you're booked for an early-morning dive, it might just qualify; otherwise stay in Havana and commute.
Hotel CopacabanaHOTEL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-204-1037; Av 1, btwn Calles 44 & 46; s/d CUC$100/140;
p
a
i
W
s)
Slightly better than some of its tired Playa competitors thanks to a 2010 refurbishment, though there's still an inherent dankness about the Copacabana, despite its fine oceanside location. Best feature? There are two pools – one of them a saltwater affair that drains into the sea.
oHotel Meliá HabanaHOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-204-8500; www.meliacuba.com; Av 3, btwn Calles 76 & 80; s/d CUC$527/600;
p
a
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W
s)
Ugly outside but beautiful within, Miramar's gorgeous Hotel Meliá Habana is one of the city's best-run and best-equipped accommodation options. The 409 rooms (some of which are wheelchair-accessible) are positioned around a salubrious lobby with abundant hanging vines, marble statues and gushing water features. Outside, Cuba's largest and most beautiful swimming pool lies next to a desolate, rocky shore.
Throw in polite service, an excellent buffet restaurant and the occasional room discount, and you could be swayed. But the price…?
H10 Habana PanoramaHOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-204-0100; www.h10hotels.com; cnr Av 3 & Calle 70; s/d CUC$260/320;
p
a
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s)
This flashy 'glass cathedral' on Playa's rapidly developing hotel strip opened in 2003. The rather strange aesthetics – acres of blue-tinted glass – improve once you step inside the monumental lobby where space-age elevators whisk you promptly up to one of 317 bright rooms, offering great views over Miramar and beyond.
Extra facilities include a business center, a photo shop, numerous restaurants and a spacious and shapely swimming pool. But the Panorama is almost too big: its scale makes you feel small and gives the place a rather deserted and antiseptic feel.
Memories MiramarHOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-204-3583/4; www.memoriesresorts.com; cnr Av 5 & Calle 74; s/d CUC$250/350;
p
a
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W
s)
This hotel is now onto its third name change. The facilities at this 427-room giant built in 2000 are fair enough: big rooms, decent breakfasts, serviceable business facilities and a large attractive pool area. Where it falls down is in the nitty-gritty. With better attention to ongoing maintenance and more of a desire to go above and beyond for service issues, it might justify its four stars.
There are plenty of sporty extras if the isolated location starts to grate, including tennis courts, said swimming pool, sauna, gym and games room.
Hotel el BosqueHOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-204-9232; www.hotelelbosquehabana.com; Calle 28a, btwn Calles 49a & 49c, Kohly; s/d CUC$142/225;
a
i
W)
El Bosque is one arm of the Gaviota-run Kohly-Bosque complejo (complex). Clean and friendly, it lies on the banks of the Río Almendares surrounded by the Bosque de La Habana – the city's green lungs. The decor is a little behind the fashion curve and, like most Havana hotels it's hugely overpriced, although the wooded grounds deaden the blow a little.
Hotel KohlyHOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-204-0240; www.hotelkohly.com; cnr Calles 49a & 36, Kohly; s/d CUC$117/189;
p
a
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W
s)
The Kohly, in western Playa, makes up for its utilitarian exterior with a few handy extras including a swimming pool, bowling alley, gym and on-site pizzeria.
Four Points HabanaHOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-214-1470; www.fourpointshavana.com; Av 5, btwn Calles 76 & 80; r incl breakfast CUC$400-600;
p
a
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W
s)
Four Points completes a trio of expensive accommodations behind the Miramar Trade Center. While there are plenty of facilities, including large rooms, gym, pool, restaurants and a business center, the lack of maintenance, patchy service and weirdly un-Cuban personality struggle to justify the price. It's recently been taken over by the Sheraton group, so hopefully the new owners will turn the page.
Starfish MontehabanaHOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-206-9595; www.starfishresorts.com; Calle 70, btwn Avs 5a & 7; r from CUC$225;
p
a
i
W
s)
This Miramar giant opened in 2005 with the promise of something a little different. However, with its overbearing concrete stairways and boxy Lego-land architecture, it was something of an ugly duckling from the start. Lack of maintenance in the ensuing years hasn't brightened its allure. It's an apart-hotel with 101 apartments with living rooms and fully equipped kitchens.
If you're not up to cooking, the restaurant does an OK breakfast and dinner buffet (both extra). Elsewhere the facilities, rather like the service, are a bit moldy. A bonus – guests share the gym, pool and tennis courts with the four-star Memories Miramar next door.
5Eating
Playa has been a bastion of some of Cuba's best private restaurants since the 1990s and many of the old stalwarts continue to impress despite an abundance of new competition. There are also some surprisingly good state-run restaurants, many of them developed to satisfy the taste buds of the diplomatic crowd. It's worth the taxi fare of CUC$5 to CUC$10 from the city center to eat out here.
La Casa del GelatoICE CREAM$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %52-42-08-70; Av 1 No 4215, btwn Calles 42 & 44; ice cream CUC$2-4;
h11am-11pm)
Miramar has always seemed to be one step ahead of the rest of Havana in the culinary stakes, sporting posh dining options when the rest of the city was still on iron rations. Now they've moved the goalposts again with this fabulous ice-cream parlor that smells of waffles, sells multiple flavors and even has a Nespresso coffee machine.
Cafetería Betty BoomFAST FOOD$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %53-92-94-12; cnr Av 3 & Calle 60; snacks CUC$2.50-5;
h11am-2:30am)
Inhabiting the space once occupied by 'El Garage,' Betty Boom offers a similar concept: cheap but good fast food (hot dogs, sandwiches, shakes and salads) in a retro 1950s diner interior where the waitresses dress like 1930s cartoon character Betty Boop. Opening hours are generous, as are the portions. There's a small outdoor terrace.
Pan.comFAST FOOD$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-204-4232; cnr Av 7 & Calle 26; snacks CUC$1-4;
h10am-midnight)
Not an internet cafe but a haven of Havana comfort food, with hearty sandwiches, cheap burgers and ice-cream milk shakes to die for. Join the diplomats under the breezy front canopy.
oEspaciosTAPAS, INTERNATIONAL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-202-2921; Calle 10 No 513, btwn Avs 5 & 7; tapas CUC$3-6;
hnoon-6am)
A fabulously chilled tapas bar that occupies an unsignposted house in Miramar where hip people come to consume cocktails and art. Select from an internationally inspired menu while mingling with Havana's brainy and beautiful, a healthy mix of in-the-know expats and Cubans with artistic sensibilities.
The house is filled with interesting nooks and an attractive patio. The interior walls act as a de facto art gallery hung with avant-garde paintings.
El AljibeCARIBBEAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-204-1583/4; Av 7, btwn Calles 24 & 26; mains CUC$12-15;
hnoon-midnight)
On paper a humble state-run restaurant, but in reality a rip-roaring culinary extravaganza, El Aljibe has been delighting both Cuban and foreign diplomats' taste buds for years. The furore surrounds the gastronomic mysteries of just one dish: the obligatory pollo asado (roast chicken), which is served up with as-much-as-you-can-eat helpings of white rice, black beans, fried plantain, french fries and salad.
The accompanying bitter orange sauce is said to be a state secret.
Paladar Vista MarSEAFOOD$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-203-8328; www.restaurantevistamar.com; Av 1 No 2206, btwn Calles 22 & 24; mains CUC$8-15;
hnoon-midnight Mon-Sat)
The Vista Mar has been around for eons in paladar years (since 1996). It inhabits the 2nd-floor family room turned restaurant of a private residence, which faces the sea. The seaside ambience is embellished by a beautiful swimming pool that spills its water into the ocean. If enjoying delicious seafood dishes overlooking the crashing ocean sounds enticing, read no more, and book a table!
Casa PilarSPANISH$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.facebook.com/casapilarhabana; Calle 36 No 103, btwn Avs 1 & 3; mains CUC$10-20; hnoon-2am)
Tapas bar and Spanish restaurant in one, Casa Pilar serves up dishes that have the true taste of a Spanish kitchen with a slight Cuban flare. Try the garbanzos (chickpeas) with ropa vieja (shredded beef). The gin and tonics are among the best in Havana, and the restaurant’s terrace on the 2nd floor is the ideal place to enjoy them.
Club Su MiramarKOREAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-206-3443; Calle 40a No 1115, btwn Avs 1 & 3; mains CUC$9-14;
hnoon-3am)
Havana's restaurant scene in the last few years has been an exciting potluck of 'what's next?' We've already had Cuba's first Russian, Iranian and Indian restaurants. Now we have its first Korean place. You're halfway to Seoul in Club Su with the decor – a fragrant garden and tranquil terrace with sliding doors into an Asian-minimalist domain. The food's not far behind.
The smoked salmon makes a good away-day from normal Cuban cuisine and the gimbab is suitably exotic, while the aromatic rice is imported from Korea.
El CucalambeCUBAN$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Calle 226; mains CUC$5-9; hnoon-11pm)
Jaimanitas, aka Fusterlandia, has recently sprouted a pretty good restaurant to serve the regular deluge of visitors. It's decorated, not surprisingly, with cutting-edge art and named (perhaps more surprisingly) for an erstwhile Las Tunas poet. The food, headlined by spit-roasted pork, also has a Las Tunas bent. Tables with ceramic eating utensils are set around a pleasant outdoor patio.
La CarboncitaITALIAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Av 3 No 3804, btwn Calles 38 & 40; pasta & pizza CUC$7-8; hnoon-midnight)
The food appears mysteriously from the garage of this Miramar house turned Italian restaurant with both indoor and outdoor front porch seating, but there’s nothing mechanical about the flavors. On the contrary, the pasta is homemade by the Italian owner and you can choose from a multitude of authentic sauces including pesto. The thin-crust pizzas are good too.
Casa EspañolaSPANISH$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-206-9644; cnr Calle 26 & Av 7; meals CUC$8-14;
hnoon-11pm)
A medieval parody built in the Batista-era by the silly-rich Gustavo Gutiérrez y Sánchez, this crenellated castle in Miramar has found new life as a Spanish-themed restaurant cashing in on the Don Quixote legend. The ambience is rather fine, if you don't mind suits of armor watching you as you tuck into paella, Spanish omelet or lanja cerdo al Jerez (pork fillet).
Papa's Complejo TurísticoCARIBBEAN, CHINESE$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Av 5 & Calle 248; meals CUC$5-10; hnoon-3am)
There's all sorts of stuff going on at this joint in the Marina Hemingway, from beer-swilling boatmen to warbling American Idol wannabes hogging the karaoke machine. The eating options are equally varied, with a posh Chinese place (with dress code) and an outdoor ranchón (rustic, open-sided restaurant). Good fun if there's enough people.
Dos GardeniasCARIBBEAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Av 7 & Calle 28; mains CUC$7-10; hnoon-11pm)
You can choose from a grill or a pasta restaurant in this complex, which is famous as a bolero (ballad) music hot spot. Stick around to hear the singers belting out ballads later on.
Restaurante la CovaITALIAN$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-209-7289; cnr Av 5 & Calle 248; meals CUC$8;
hnoon-midnight)
Part of the Pizza Nova chain, this place, like much of the Marina Hemingway, has seen better days. It's OK if you're short on options (which you will be). There's an affiliated cafe next door.
oLa FontanaBARBECUE$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-202-8337; www.lafontanahavana.info; Av 3a No 305; mains CUC$20-28;
hnoon-midnight)
La Fontana, encased in a hard-to-find but beautiful house in Playa, is one of the best restaurants in Havana, a position it has enjoyed pretty much since its inception in 1995 (back in Cuba's culinary Stone Age). The secret: the restaurant has progressed with the times, adding space, dishes and multiple quirks like fish ponds and live jazz.
These days there are four separate areas to drink and dine in, each with a different ambience, including a new lounge bar and the ever-popular fern-filled terrace.
Fontana is famed for its barbecue or, more to the point, its full-on charcoal grill. Huge portions of meat and fish are served up so go easy on the starters, which include lobster ceviche, tuna tartar, and beef carpaccio with rocket.
La Corte del PríncipeITALIAN$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %52-55-90-91; cnr Av 9 & Calle 74; mains CUC$15-20;
hnoon-3pm & 7pm-midnight Tue-Sun)
Possibly the most Italian of Italian restaurants in Havana is this lovely semi-alfresco nook run by an expat Italian who plies the best of his country's famous cuisine. The menu's a potluck inscribed on a blackboard, but there are regular appearances from eggplant parmigiano and vitello tonnato (veal in tuna sauce). Shiny fresh vegetables in display baskets add to the allure.
It's a little out of the way, but the word is out. Book ahead.
La Cocina de LilliamFUSION$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-209-6514; www.lacocinadelilliam.com; Calle 48 No 1311, btwn Avs 13 & 15; meals CUC$15-30;
hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sat)
A legend long before Cuban food became legendary, Lilliam's was once one of Havana's only posh private restaurants – the long-standing diplomat's choice. These days it has more competition, but maintains its prominence with classy service, secluded ambience and freshly cooked food to die for.
The experience is as much about the surroundings as the food. The restaurant is set in an illustrious villa in Miramar and you are served in a garden with trickling fountains and lush tropical plants. The menu changes regularly, but there's usually good steak, octopus and pork options.
La EsperanzaINTERNATIONAL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-202-4361; Calle 16 No 105, btwn Avs 1 & 3; meals CUC$8-17;
h7-11pm Mon-Sat)
The unassuming Esperanza was being gastronomically creative long before the 2011 reforms made life for chefs a lot easier. The interior of this vine-covered house is a riot of quirky antiques, old portraits and refined 1940s furnishings, while the food from the family kitchen includes such exquisite dishes as pollo luna de miel (chicken flambéed in rum) and lamb brochettes.
Doctor CaféCUBAN$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-203-4718; Calle 28, btwn Avs 1 & 3; mains CUC$12-20;
hnoon-midnight)
Exotic dishes such as ceviche, red snapper and grilled octopus are served in either a fern-filled patio or cooler indoor dining area; this doctor is obviously getting the treatment spot on. The menu is from all over the globe, although the fish off the grill is the highlight. Unusually for Cuba it often has good desserts, including key lime pie!
El TocororoCARIBBEAN$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-202-4530; Calle 18 No 302; meals CUC$12-35;
hnoon-11:45pm)
Once considered – along with El Aljibe – to be one of Havana's finest government-run restaurants, El Tocororo has lost ground to its competitors in recent years and is often criticized for being overpriced. Nonetheless the candlelit tables and grandiose interior are still worth a visit, while the menu, with such luxuries as lobster's tail and (occasionally) ostrich, still has the ability to surprise.
La FerminiaSTEAK$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-273-6786; Av 5 No 18207, Flores; meals from CUC$15;
hnoon-midnight)
The out-of-the-way Ferminia is old-school Havana posh. During rougher economic times it drew in diplomats and famous visitors in spades (Fidel Castro ate here), but today it struggles to emulate the raft of newer, cooler competition. The semi-elegant interior has seen better days, while the food revolves around steak done Argentinian-style.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Playa is spread out and thus doesn't really encourage bar crawls. Many of the neighborhood's famously plush restaurants also have excellent bars – of note are Espacios and La Fontana. You can also down a few rums or cervezas at Club Habana or Marina Hemingway.
oCafé Fortuna JoeBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %54-13-37-06; cnr Calle 24 & Av 1, Miramar;
h9am-midnight)
There are a lot of seriously weird (in a good way) places to drink coffee in Havana, but Café Fortuna Joe takes some beating, mainly because of its original seating. Forget the mismatched chairs so beloved by hipsters elsewhere. Fortuna's seating arrangements include a horse carriage, an old car, a bed and a cushioned toilet. We kid you not.
The coffee and service here are excellent, and it also serves food.
There's another smaller Cafe Fortuna nearby at Av 3 and Calle 28.
3Entertainment
El Salón ChévereDANCE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %52-64-96-92; cnr Calles 49 & 28; CUC$6-10;
h11pm-3am)
Go into the woods at Parque Almendares to find one of Havana's most popular open-air discos, where a mix of Cubans and non-Cubans come to dance salsa. You can also take salsa lessons here through Club Salseando Chévere.
Tropicana NightclubCABARET
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-267-1871; Calle 72 No 4504, Marianao; tickets from CUC$75;
hfrom 10pm)
A city institution since its 1939 opening, the world-famous Tropicana was one of the few bastions of Havana's Las Vegas–style nightlife to survive the revolution. Immortalized in Graham Greene's 1958 classic Our Man in Havana, the open-air cabaret show here has changed little since its 1950s heyday, with scantily clad señoritas descending from palm trees to dance Latin salsa amid bright lights.
It's easily Havana's most popular cabaret and de rigueur on the bus tour circuit (read: lots of tourists), none of which takes away from the magnificence of the spectacle.
You'll need a taxi to get here. Book tickets in advance through Infotur or any top-end hotel.
Café MiramarLIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Av 5 No 9401, cnr Calle 94; cover CUC$2)
Miramar's slick new jazz club wouldn’t cut ice with bebop-era jazz greats who would smirk at the sanitized air and no-smoking rule, but it doesn’t seem to bother today’s young innovators. The club is encased in the Cine Teatro Miramar and belongs to government agency ARTex. Things usually get jamming at 10pm-ish and there’s cheap food.
Salón Rosado Benny MoréLIVE MUSIC
(El Tropical;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-206-1281; cnr Av 41 & Calle 46, Kohly;
h9pm-late)
If you're looking for something inherently Cuban, tag along with the local habaneros for some very caliente action at this outdoor venue known colloquially as El Tropical. The long-standing club hosts live music and has changed its spots over the years – these days it's less Benny Moré and more Pupy y Los Que Son Son with occasional reggaeton thrown in.
Dancing is de rigueur, unless you can escape to one of the balconies for a drink. Entry prices and show nights vary – check the local grapevine first.
Casa de la MúsicaLIVE MUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-202-6147; Calle 20 No 3308, cnr Av 35, Miramar; CUC$5-20;
hfrom 10pm Tue-Sat)
Launched with a concert by renowned jazz pianist Chucho Valdés in 1994, this Miramar favorite is run by national Cuban recording company Egrem, and the programs are generally a lot more authentic than the cabaret entertainment you'll see at the hotels.
Platinum players such as NG la Banda, Los Van Van and Aldaberto Álvarez y Su Son play here regularly; you'll rarely pay more than CUC$20. It has a more relaxed atmosphere than its Centro Habana namesake.
Teatro Karl MarxLIVE MUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-209-1991; cnr Av 1 & Calle 10, Miramar)
Size-wise the Karl Marx puts other Havana theaters in the shade, with a seating capacity of 5500 in a single auditorium. The very biggest events happen here, such as the closing galas for the jazz and film festivals, and rare concerts by trovadores like Silvio Rodríguez.
Don CangrejoLIVE MUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Av 1 No 1606, btwn Calles 16 & 18, Miramar; cover CUC$5; h11pm-3am)
The daytime restaurant of the Cuban fisheries becomes party central particularly on Friday night, with alfresco live music (big-name acts) and an atmosphere akin to an undergraduate fresher’s ball. It's crowded and there are queues.
La CeciliaLIVE MUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-204-1562; Av 5 No 11010, btwn Calles 110 & 112;
hnoon-midnight)
This place has long been a staple with the diplomatic crowd, but better than the food (meals CUC$12 to CUC$20) is the big-band music, which blasts out on weekend nights inside its large but atmospheric courtyard.
Circo TrompolocoCIRCUS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.circonacionaldecuba.cu; cnr Av 5 & Calle 112, Playa; CUC$5-10; h7pm Fri, 4pm & 7pm Sat & Sun;
c)
Havana's permanent 'Big Top' with a weekend matinee features strongmen, contortionists and acrobats.
7Shopping
oLa Casa del Habano QuintaCIGARS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-214-4737; cnr Av 5 & Calle 16, Miramar;
h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun)
Arguably Havana's top cigar store – and there are many contenders. The primary reasons: it's well stocked, with well-informed staff, a comfy smoking lounge, a decent on-site restaurant and a welcome lack of tourist traffic.
Alma ShopARTS & CRAFTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %53-5-264-0660; www.almacubashop.com; Calle 18 No 314, btwn Avs 3 & 5;
h10am-4pm Mon-Sat)
Whether you're searching for jewelry, embroidered cushions or a vintage cigar humidor, this is a great place to pick up a high-quality gift or souvenir. Owner Alex Oppmann has traveled across Cuba to carefully select pieces made by local artisans; each item is unique and handmade using natural or recycled materials.
La MaisonCLOTHING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Calle 16 No 701, Miramar; h9am-5pm)
The Cuban fashion fascination is in high gear at this large boutique selling designer clothing, shoes, handbags, jewelry, cosmetics and souvenirs. It also holds regular fashion shows.
Miramar Trade CenterSHOPPING CENTER
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Av 3, btwn Calles 76 & 80, Miramar; hhours vary)
Cuba's largest and most modern shopping and business center houses myriad stores, airline offices and embassies.
Egrem Tienda de MúsicaMUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Calle 18 No 103, Miramar; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat)
There's a small CD outlet hidden here in leafy Miramar at the site of Havana's most celebrated recording studios.
8Information
Medical Services
Clínica Central Cira GarcíaMEDICAL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-204-4300; Calle 20 No 4101;
h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, emergencies 24hr)
Emergency, dental and medical consultations for foreigners.
Farmacia Internacional MiramarPHARMACY
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-204-4350; cnr Calles 20 & 41, Playa;
h9am-5:45pm)
Across the road from Clínica Central Cira García.
Money
Banco Financiero InternacionalBANK
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Sierra Maestra Bldg, cnr Av 1 & Calle 0, Miramar; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri)
Has an ATM.
CadecaBANK
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-204-9087; cnr Av 3 & Calle 70, Playa;
h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon Sun)
A handy money exchange with small queues.
CadecaBANK
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Av 5a, btwn Calles 40 & 42, Miramar; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon Sun)
Handy money exchange with minimal queues.
Post
DHLPOST
(
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Av 1 & Calle 26, Miramar; h8:30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat)
For important mail it's best to use DHL.
Post OfficePOST
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Calle 42 No 112, btwn Avs 1 & 3, Miramar; h8-11:30am & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 8-11:30am Sat)
Tourist Information
InfoturTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Av 5 & Calle 112, Playa; h8:30am-noon & 12:30-5pm Mon-Sat)
Oddly located but highly informative Infotur office.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
The best way to get to Playa from Centro Habana and Vedado is on the Habana Bus Tour T1, which plies most of the neighborhood's highlights all the way to La Cecilia on Av 5 in Cubanacán (CUC$10 for an all-day ticket). Plenty of metro buses also make the trip, though they often detour around the residential neighborhoods; P-1 and P-10 buses are the most useful.
Car
Cubacar has offices at the Hotel Meliá Habana (
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-204-3236;
h9am-5pm) and Marina Hemingway (
GOOGLE MAP
;
%7-835-0000; Marina Hemingway;
h9am-5pm). Rental costs depend on the type of car and duration of rent – take CUC$70 per day as an average. Vía Rent a Car (
GOOGLE MAP
;
%7-204-3606; cnr Avs 47 & 36, Kohly;
h9am-5pm) has an office opposite the Hotel el Bosque.
Regla and Guanabacoa are two small towns on the eastern side of Havana harbor that got swallowed up during Havana's urban growth. Slow-paced and little visited by tourists, the municipalities retain an independent-minded and culturally distinct spirit. There are other spirits here too. Guanabacoa is sometimes called el pueblo embrujado ('the bewitched town') for its strong Santería traditions, while Regla – another Santería hotbed – was known as the Sierra Chiquita (Little Sierra, after the Sierra Maestra) in the 1950s for its bolshie revolutionary politics.
1Sights
oIglesia de Nuestra Señora de ReglaCHURCH
(
GOOGLE MAP
; h7:30am-6pm)
As important as it is diminutive, Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Regla, which sits close to the boat dock in Regla, has a long and colorful history. Inside on the main altar you'll find La Santísima Virgen de Regla.
The virgin, represented by a black Madonna, is venerated in the Catholic faith and associated in the Santería religion with Yemayá, the orisha of the ocean and the patron of sailors (always represented in blue). Legend claims that this image was carved by St Augustine 'The African' in the 5th century, and that in AD 453 a disciple brought the statue to Spain to safeguard it from barbarians. The small vessel in which the image was traveling survived a storm in the Strait of Gibraltar, so the figure was recognized as the patron of sailors. In more recent times, rafters attempting to reach the US have also evoked the protection of the Black Virgin.
To shelter a copy of the image, a hut was first built on this site in 1687 by a pilgrim named Manuel Antonio. But this structure was destroyed during a 1692 hurricane. A few years later a Spaniard named Juan de Conyedo built a stronger chapel, and in 1714 Nuestra Señora de Regla was proclaimed patron of the Bahía de la Habana. In 1957 the image was crowned by the Cuban Cardinal in Havana cathedral. Every year on September 7 thousands of pilgrims descend on Regla to celebrate the saint's day, and the image is taken out for a procession through the streets.
The current church dates from the early 19th century and is always busy with devotees from both religions stooping in silent prayer before the images of the saints that fill the alcoves. In Havana, there is probably no better (public) place to see the layering and transference between Catholic beliefs and African traditions.
Museo Municipal de ReglaMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Martí No 158; CUC$2; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon Sun)
If you've come across to see Regla's church, you should also check out this important museum. Don't be put off by its superficial dinginess – there's some valuable relics inside. Located a few blocks up the main street from the ferry, it records Regla's history and Afro-Cuban religions. Don't miss the Palo Monte ngangas (cauldrons) and the masked Abakuá dancing figurines.
There's also an interesting, small exhibit on Remigio Herrero, first babalawo (priest) of Regla, and a bizarre statue of Napoleon with his nose missing.
Estatua de CristoMONUMENT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Casablanca)
This impossible-to-miss statue on a rise on the harbor's eastern side was created by Jilma Madera in 1958. It was promised to President Batista by his wife after the US-backed leader survived an attempt on his life in the Presidential Palace in March 1957, and was (ironically) unveiled on Christmas Day 1958, one week before the dictator fled the country. As you disembark the Casablanca ferry, follow the road uphill for about 10 minutes until you reach the monument.
Colina LeninMONUMENT
( GOOGLE MAP ; Regla)
From Regla's boat dock, head straight (south) on Martí past Parque Guaicanamar, and turn left on Albuquerque and right on 24 de Febrero, the road to Guanabacoa. About 1.5km from the ferry you'll see a high metal stairway that gives access to Colina Lenin, one of two Havana monuments to Vladimir Ilyich Ulyanov (better known to his friends and enemies as Lenin).
The monument was conceived in 1924 by the socialist mayor of Regla, Antonio Bosch, to honor Lenin's death (in the same year). Above a monolithic image of the man is an olive tree planted by Bosch, surrounded by seven lithe figures. There are fine harbor views from the hilltop.
Ermita de PotosíCHURCH
(
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Calzada Vieja Guanabacoa & Potosí; h8am-5pm)
Inexplicably, barely anyone visits this, the oldest church in Cuba still standing in its original perch. The existing structure dates from around 1675 and is a simple mudéjar design with a single belltower and a wooden ceiling. It sits in an eerie graveyard atop a hill in Guanabacoa and is in remarkably good condition following a 21st-century restoration.
Museo Municipal de GuanabacoaMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Martí No 108; CUC$2; h9am-5:30pm Tue-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun)
Guanabacoa's main museum, like Regla's, is an important shrine to Santería, though you'll need to see past the rundown facilities and impassive 'guides' to appreciate it. The collection is small but concise; rooms are dedicated to the various Santería deities with a particular focus on the orisha Elegguá. Equally fascinating are rare artifacts from the Palo Monte and Abakuá religions.
The museum has another arm further west along Calle Martí in the Museo de Mártires (
GOOGLE MAP
; Martí No 320; h10am-6pm Tue-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun), which displays historical material relevant to the revolution and its local 'martyrs.'
Iglesia de GuanabacoaCHURCH
(
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Pepe Antonio & Adolfo del Castillo Cadenas; hparochial office 8-11am & 2-5pm Mon-Fri)
This church, in Parque Martí in the center of Guanabacoa, is also known as the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, and was designed by Lorenzo Camacho and built between 1721 and 1748 with a Moorish-influenced wooden ceiling.
5Eating
La BrisillaCUBAN$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Cruz Verde, btwn Santa Ana & Segui; mains CUC$6-10; hnoon-midnight)
Unsignposted, hard to find and, consequently, almost 100% local, this is a rare private restaurant in Guanabacoa, where the food culture doesn't seem to have moved on much since the not-so-tasty '90s. You'll have to ask the way in Spanish to get here, but when and if you make it, the rabbit in red wine and succulent lobster will leave you feeling as pleased as you'll be surprised.
In Calle Cruz Verde, La Brisilla is the pleasant stone-fronted house with two lions on a parapet.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Centro Cultural Recreativo los OrishasBAR
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-794-7878; Martí No 175, btwn Lamas & Cruz Verde;
h10am-2am)
Situated in the hotbed of Havana's Santería community in Guanabacoa, this bar-restaurant used to host live rumba music on weekends, including regular visits from the Conjunto Folklórico Nacional, though it seemed to have limited its program at last visit. The walled garden bar is surrounded by Afro-Cuban sculptures of various Santería deities.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
Metro bus P-15 from the Parque de la Fraternidad in Centro Habana goes to Regla and Guanabacoa, stopping at the main train terminal in Habana Vieja on the way.
Ferry
Regla is easily accessible on the passenger ferry that departs every 20 minutes (CUC$0.25) from the Emboque de Luz at the intersection of San Pedro and Santa Clara in Habana Vieja. Bicycles are readily accepted via a separate line that boards first.
Foot
You can walk uphill from Regla where the Havana ferry docks to Guanabacoa (or vice versa) in about 45 minutes, passing the Colina Lenin monument on the way.
Spread out like a fan on three sides of downtown, Havana's little-visited suburban municipalities hide a handful of disparate sights that can make interesting half-day and day trips from the city center. Santiago de las Vegas and Santa María del Rosario are former rural settlements that have been incorporated into the larger metropolis without losing their soporific airs; San Francisco de Paula trades off its association with famous former resident, Ernest Hemingway; Arroyo Naranjo encircles the city's largest green space, Parque Lenin, and hosts Havana's expansive botanical gardens.
1Sights
oMuseo HemingwayMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-692-0176; cnr Vígia & Singer; CUC$5;
h10am-4:30pm Mon-Sat)
In 1940, American novelist Ernest Hemingway bought the Finca la Vigía, a villa on a hill in San Francisco de Paula, 15km southeast of Havana, where he lived continuously for 20 years. When he departed, tired and depressed, for the US in 1960 soon after the Castro revolution, he generously donated his house to the 'Cuban people.' It is now a museum and almost unchanged since the day he left.
To prevent the pilfering of objects, visitors are not allowed inside the house (La Casona), but there are enough open doors and windows to allow a proper glimpse into Papa's universe. Inside the house there are books everywhere (including beside the toilet), a large Victrola and record collection, and a disturbing array of trophy animal heads.
A three-story tower next to the main house contains a tiny typewriter, a telescope and a comfortable lounger, and offers suitably inspiring views north toward the distant city. In the heavily wooded grounds below you'll encounter the swimming pool where Ava Gardner once swam naked, a cockfighting ring and Hemingway's beloved fishing boat, Pilar, grounded on what was once his tennis court.
To reach San Francisco de Paula, take metro bus P-7 (Alberro) from Parque de la Fraternidad in Centro Habana. Tell the driver you're going to the museum. You get off in San Miguel del Padrón; the house entrance is on Calle Vigía, 200m east of the main road, Calzada de Guines.
Jardín Botánico NacionalGARDENS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Carretera del Rocio; CUC$4; h10am-5pm Wed-Sun)
Havana's curiously under-visited 600-hectare botanical garden suffers from an out-of-town location and poor transport links (get a taxi). It opened in 1984 after 16 years of development and is hailed for its collection of 250 species of palm trees, ethno-botanical crop displays and tranquil Japanese Garden (1992). Multilingual guided tours are conducted on a mini-train (not as tacky as it sounds), or in your own vehicle should you have one (the guide will come with you).
Between November and February, the garden is an excellent spot for observing migratory birds. It is also known for its vegetarian Restaurante el Bambú, which serves a meat-free buffet daily. There's a separate ranchón (rustic, open-sided restaurant) serving à la carte meat dishes for carnivores.
Santuario de San LázaroCHURCH
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Carretera San Antonio de los Baños; h7am-6pm)
You can make your own journey to the site of Cuba's biggest annual pilgrimage, tucked away in the village-like Havana suburb of Rincón. The saint inside the church is San Lázaro (represented by the orisha Babalú Ayé in the Santería religion), the patron saint of healing and the sick. Hundreds come to light candles and lay flowers daily. Thousands come on December 17 to pray for respite from illnesses or to give thanks for cures.
There's a small museum displaying a raft of previous offerings to San Lázaro in a chapel next door.
Parque LeninPARK
(
GOOGLE MAP
; hhours vary)
F
Parque Lenin, in Arroyo Naranjo municipality, 20km south of central Havana, is the city's largest recreational area. Constructed between 1969 and 1972 on the orders of Celia Sánchez, a long-time associate of Fidel Castro, it is one of the few developments in Havana from this era. The 670 hectares of green parkland and beautiful old trees surround an artificial lake, the Embalse Paso Sequito, just west of the much larger Embalse Ejército Rebelde, which was formed by damming the Río Almendares.
Although the park itself is attractive enough, its mishmash of facilities has fallen on hard times since the 1990s. Taxi drivers complain it's muy abandonado and wax nostalgic about when 'Lenin' was an idyllic weekend getaway for scores of pleasure-seeking Havana families. These days the place retains a neglected and surreal air. Help has long been promised, though words tend to be louder than actions. To date, some Chinese investment has filtered through, but it's a big job that's still a long way from completion. Around 95% of the current visitors are Cubans who come here mainly at weekends.
Most of the park's attractions are open 9am to 5pm Tuesday to Sunday, and admission to the park itself is free. You can sometimes rent a rowboat on the Embalse Paso Sequito. Horse-riding is also popular, but hire your mounts from the Centro Ecuestre rather than the army of hustlers who hang around outside the entrance and who often ride maltreated horses.
To get to the park, the P-13 will get you close, but to catch it you have to first get to Vibora. The best way to do this is to get on the P-9 at Calles 23 and L in Vedado.
Mausoleo de Antonio MaceoMONUMENT
(
GOOGLE MAP
)F
On a hilltop at El Cacahual, 8km south of Aeropuerto Internacional José Martí via Santiago de las Vegas, is the little-visited mausoleum of the hero of Cuban independence, General Antonio Maceo, who was killed in the Battle of San Pedro near Bauta on December 7, 1896. An open-air pavilion next to the mausoleum shelters a historical exhibit.
2Activities
Centro EcuestreHORSE RIDING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Parque Lenin; h9am-5pm)
The stables in the northwestern corner of Parque Lenin are run by environmental agency Flora y Fauna. They generally offer horse-riding for around CUC$12 per hour from their equestrian center. If you'd like to ride in the park, go with these guys, not the touts at the park entrance who often ride maltreated horses.
Club de Golf la HabanaGOLF
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Carretera de Venta, Km 8 Reparto Capdevila, Boyeros; h8am-8pm, bowling alley noon-11pm)
A curiosity as much as a place to swing a nine-iron, this golf club lies between Vedado and the airport and is one of only two in Cuba. There are nine holes on the rough-and-rutted par-35 course. Green fees are CUC$20 for nine holes; clubs, cart and caddie cost extra. The club also has tennis courts and a bowling alley
Originally called the Rover's Athletic Club, it was established by a group of British diplomats in the 1920s, and the diplomatic corps is largely the clientele today. Fidel and Che Guevara played a round here once as a publicity stunt soon after the Cuban missile crisis in 1962. The photos of the event are still popular. Che – an ex-caddy – apparently won.
Poor signposting makes the club hard to find and most taxi drivers get lost looking: ask locals for directions to the golfito or Dilpo Golf Club.
Santa María del Rosario, 19km southeast of central Havana, is an old colonial town founded in 1732. Unlike most other towns from that period, it has not become engulfed by modern suburbs, but stands alone in the countryside. The charms of this area were recognized by one of Cuba's greatest living painters, Manuel Mendive, who selected it for his personal residence. You can also see the local countryside in Tomás Gutiérrez Alea's film La última cena, a metaphorical critique of slavery.
Also called the Catedral de los Campos de Cuba, the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Rosario (
GOOGLE MAP
; Calle 24, btwn 31 & 33, Santa María del Rosario; h8am-6pm Tue-Sun), on Santa María del Rosario's old town square, was built in 1760 in classic baroque style. It's known for its gleaming gold interior made up of a gilded mahogany altar and some equally sumptuous side altars fashioned in the churrigueresque style. It is one of suburban Havana's most attractive secrets.
From the Capitolio in Centro Habana take metro bus P-7 to Cotorro and then bus 97, which runs from Guanabacoa to Santa María del Rosario.
5Eating
La CeibaPARRILLA$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Av San Francisco & Primer Anillo de la Habana; mains MN$75-150; h11:30am-9:45pm)
La Ceiba is a thatched ranchón at the northern entrance to Parque Lenin close to where the galloping horse hustlers congregate. Come here for the parrillada (giant barbecue) and watch as selective meats send up aromatic plumes of smoke while you sit nursing a cold beer. Cheap, simple and very Cuban.
Casa 1740CUBAN$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; María Capote, Parque Lenin; mains MN$50-70; h9am-5pm Wed-Sun)
One of Parque Lenin's quieter eating options is set in a small house south of the lake and is air-conditioned to replicate a chilly day in Canada. Food is straight up comida criolla (traditional Cuban). You can't go wrong with the ropa vieja (shredded beef) at MN$60 (CUC$2.40).
Restaurante el BambúVEGETARIAN$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Jardín Botánico Nacional; buffet CUC$12; h1-3pm;
v)
This was once the only example of vegetarian dining in Havana, and has long been a leading advocate for the benefits of a meatless diet (a tough call in the challenging economy of Cuba). The all-you-can-eat lunch buffet is served alfresco, deep in the botanical gardens, with the natural setting paralleling the wholesome tastiness of the food.
Gorge on soups and salads, root vegetables, tamales and eggplant caviar.
Las RuinasCARIBBEAN$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Cortina de la Presa, Parque Lenin; mains CUC$6-10; h11am-midnight Tue-Sun)
Once celebrated for its architecture (a modernist structure incorporating the ruins of a sugar mill), Las Ruinas had become a ruin itself by the 2010s. Work was in progress at the time of research to spruce it up and restore the eye-catching stained glass by Cuban artist René Portocarrero, as well as the food.
3Entertainment
Rodeo NacionalRODEO
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-643-8089; Parque Lenin;
h4pm Sun)
In an arena in Parque Lenin, Rodeo Nacional, the biggest rodeo in Cuba, is held on Sundays (but not every Sunday, so check ahead). Rodeos in Cuba attract few tourists but are classic Cuban affairs and a great insight into rural culture. The big 'un held here every March is the Boyeros Cattlemen's International Fair.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
Metro bus P-12 from Parque de la Fraternidad or bus P-16 from outside Hospital Nacional Hermanos Ameijeiras just off the Malecón go to Santiago de las Vegas. To reach San Francisco de Paula (for Museo Hemingway), take metro bus P-7 (Alberro) from the Parque de la Fraternidad in Centro Habana. Tell the driver you’re going to the museum. You get off in San Miguel del Padrón. For Parque Lenin, the P-13 will get you close, but to catch it you have to first get to Vibora. The best way to do this is to get on the P-9 at Calles 23 and L in Vedado.
Taxi
Cars to Havana's outer regions charge anywhere between CUC$15 and CUC$25 depending on the destination.
Habana del Este is home to Playas del Este, a multiflavored if slightly unkempt beach strip situated 18km east of Habana Vieja. While the beaches here are sublime, the accompanying resorts aren't exactly luxurious. Rather, Playas del Este has a timeworn and slightly abandoned air, and aspiring beach loungers might find the ugly Soviet-style hotel piles more than a little incongruous. But for those who dislike modern tourist development or are keen to see how Cubans get out and enjoy themselves, Playas del Este is a breath of fresh air.
Playas del Este
4Sleeping
1Sights
Eastern Havana doesn't have much in the way of specific sights: the multiflavored beaches provide the main draw. Stretching from west to east in an almost unbroken 15km strip are Bacuranao, Tarará, El Mégano, Santa María del Mar, Boca Ciega and Guanabo.
Situated 10km east of Havana is the little port town of Cojímar, famous for harboring Ernest Hemingway's fishing boat El Pilar in the 1940s and 1950s. These days it's an obligatory stop on any 'Hemingway-wos-'ere' tour, with groups arriving primarily to visit the historic if mediocre Restaurante la Terraza where Ernesto once sank daiquiris.
Torreón de CojímarFORT
( GOOGLE MAP )
Overlooking the harbor is an old Spanish fort (1649) presently occupied by the Cuban Coast Guard. It was the first fortification taken by the British when they attacked Havana from the rear in 1762. Next to this tower and framed by a neoclassical archway is a gilded bust of Ernest Hemingway, erected by the residents of Cojímar in 1962.
East across the river from Cojímar is a large housing estate of prefabricated apartment blocks built from 1971 by micro brigadas (small armies of workers who built post-revolution housing), called Alamar ( GOOGLE MAP ). This is the birthplace of Cuban rap, and the annual hip-hop festival is still centered here. It is also the home of one of Cuba's largest and most successful urban agricultural gardens, the Organopónico Vivero Alamar.
2Activities
Havana Kiteboarding ClubKITESURFING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %58-04-96-56; www.havanakite.com; Plaza Cobre, btwn 12 & 14, Tarará)
At Tarará, where conditions for kiteboarding are excellent, this Italian-run operator offers lessons (CUC$155 for two hours) and board rental (CUC$60 per hour), and can organize accommodation packages in the adjacent Villa Tarará.
Marlin Náutica TararáWATER SPORTS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-796-0240; cnr Av 8 & Calle 17, Tarará)
Yacht charters, deep-sea fishing and scuba diving are offered at the Marina Tarará, 22km east of Havana. It's generally easier to organize activities at a hotel tour desk in Havana before heading out. Prices are similar to those at Marina Hemingway.
Much of the romance of the Cuban revolution stems from the documentary photographs that told its story. Go into any souvenir shop in Havana and you’ll see an attractive selection of black-and-white prints recreated on posters and postcards. There’s Fidel Castro jumping from a tank in the Bay of Pigs, Che Guevara puffing coolly on a cigar, and Fidel and Hemingway tête-à-tête at a Havana fishing tournament. These evocative but propaganda-heavy images were the work of a quartet of great Cuban photographers, all of them close confidantes of Fidel Castro.
The most renowned was Alberto Korda, whose international fame rests on one image: his enigmatic and much copied 1960 photo of Che Guevara clad in bomber jacket and beret looking angrily into the distance. The photo, taken at the funeral for victims of a bomb attack in Havana harbor (hence Guevara’s angry expression), seemed to embody Cuba’s nascent revolutionary spirit and was quickly adopted by leftists the world over. It went on to become one of the most enduring images of the 20th century.
In the late 1950s, Korda formed a close friendship with Fidel Castro and followed him everywhere, including to the US in 1959. Another photographer on that trip was Raúl Corrales, an avowed communist whose artistic shots, though not as famous as Korda’s, were more subtle and spontaneous. A third member of this group of Cuban photographers was Osvaldo Salas, who was impressed by the young firebrand and moved back to Cuba after the 1959 revolution. Along with his son Roberto, he became one of the Cuban government’s official photographers.
Many of Cuba’s revolutionary photos were staged. A shot of a posse of bearded guerrillas on horseback by Corrales was a re-enactment of an 1895 Independence War battle. A series called ‘Fidel Returns to the Sierra Maestra’ was arranged by Castro and Alberto Korda in the 1960s for the Cuban newspaper Revolución. Nonetheless the graphic power of the images endures. Korda’s iconic Che image still appears on coins, banknotes and tourist T-shirts, while depictions of Fidel, Che and Camilo Cienfuegos have turned up on everything from revolutionary billboards to the pop art of Raúl Martínez.
4Sleeping
Gilberto & BlancaCASA PARTICULAR$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-796-2171; gilberto@nauta.cu; Av 5 No 47012, btwn Calles 470 & 472; s/d CUC$25/35;
a)
A friendly retired couple has this pleasant bungalow on Guanabo's main drag, with four rooms sharing two bathrooms. Ideal for families or groups of friends.
Hostal Las Terrazas de TeresaCASA PARTICULAR$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-796-6860; Calle 472 No 7B07, btwn Avs 7b & 9; apt CUC$35;
p
a)
The three rooms here are realistically mini-apartments with their own kitchens and eating areas. Teresa has put a lot of work into renovating her house and the gray stone brickwork lends the spacious rooms a handsome glow. The terraces on different levels are great for relaxing with a drink.
Hostal Elena MorinaCASA PARTICULAR$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-796-7975; Calle 472 No 7B11, btwn Avs 7b & 9; r CUC$30;
p
a)
Hay Perro reads the sign, but don't worry, the pit bull that resides here is friendly (really), as is the hostess Elena, who once lived in Italy. There's great coffee and five decent rooms with a leafy patio a few blocks back from the beach.
Villa TararáBUNGALOW$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-798-2072; Via Blanca Km 16; 1/2/3/4-bed bungalows CUC$62/71/98/108)
The Villa Tarará is part of a planned resort town conceived and built in the 1940s that has gone through various incarnations in the years since (Che Guevara once lived here). It's located 16km east of Havana on a pleasant scoop of beach next to a marina and consists of a huge stash of beach houses of varying sizes and quality.
Beware: this isn't a typical resort. There aren't any good restaurants, little entertainment and the place retains a soporific, vaguely abandoned air. However, it makes a decent base if you're here to kiteboard – nearby Havana Kiteboarding Club is on the beach and the winds and waves are perfect.
Hotel TropicocoRESORT$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-797-1371; cnr Av de las Terrazas & Av de las Banderas; s/d/tr CUC$79/122/163 all-inclusive;
p
a
i
s)
Run by Cubanacán and trying hard to impersonate a grounded ship, this big blue monster is an architectural disaster inside and out. Pity the poor travelers who book this online without looking at photos first! The main (only) benefit for the terribly unfussy is the price (cheap) and the location (you could hit a big home run onto the beach from here).
Bravo Club Hotel ArenalRESORT$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-797-1272; Laguna Boca Ciega; s/d/tr CUC$150/250/320 all-inclusive;
p
a
i
W
s)
Back after a six-year hiatus, the Arenal has re-established itself as Playas del Este's best hotel (although this isn't saying much). Situated aside a small lagoon with boardwalk access to a lovely slice of beach, it lacks the panache of Cuba's northern cayos (keys), though its slightly iffy architecture has, at least, received a welcome sprucing up. The clientele is primarily Italian.
Complejo Atlántico – Las TerrazasAPARTMENT, HOTEL$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-797-1494; Av de las Terrazas, btwn Calles 11 & 12; s/d/tr CUC$116/250/320 all-inclusive;
p
a
i
s)
An amalgamation of a beach hotel and an old aparthotel, this place offers 60 or so apartments (with kitchenettes) along with the fair-to-middling Atlántico hotel, one of only three all-inclusives in the city of Havana. Rooms are clean and the beach is lovely, but, take note, this isn't high-end Varadero. Manage your expectations.
5Eating
Restaurante la TerrazaSEAFOOD$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Calle 152 No 161, Cojímar; meals CUC$7-15; hnoon-11pm)
Another photo-adorned shrine to the ghost of Hemingway, Restaurante la Terraza specializes in seafood and does a roaring trade from the hordes of Papa fans who get bused in daily. The food is surprisingly mediocre, although the terrace dining room overlooking the bay is pleasant. More atmospheric is the old bar out front, where mojitos haven't yet reached El Floridita rates.
oIl PiccoloITALIAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-796-4300; cnr Av 5 & Calle 502; pizzas CUC$7-9;
hnoon-11pm)
This Guanabo old-school private restaurant has been around for eons and is a bit of an open secret among habaneros, some of whom consider its thin-crust wood-oven pizzas to be the best in Cuba. Out of the way and a little more expensive than Playas del Este's other numerous pizza joints, it's well worth the journey (take a horse and cart on Av 5).
Restaurante 421INTERNATIONAL, CUBAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %53-05-69-00; Calle 462 No 911, btwn Avs 9 & 11; mains CUC$5-12;
h9am-1am)
Ask a local about food preferences in Guanabo and they'll probably direct you up the steep hill behind the main roundabout to this newish perch that has a surprisingly wide selection of Cuban favorites mixed with international dishes, including paella and the inevitable pizza. Sit indoors or outside and enjoy attentive service amid a perfect fusion of food and people.
Chicken LittleINTERNATIONAL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-796-2351; Calle 504 No 5815, btwn Calles 5b & 5c; mains CUC$6-9;
hnoon-11pm)
Forgive them the kitschy name – Chicken Little could yet make it big. Defying Guanabo’s ramshackle image, this deluxe restaurant has polite waitstaff with welcome cocktails who’ll talk you through a menu of pesto chicken, chicken in orange and honey and – surprise – some jolly fine lobster.
El CubanoCUBAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-796-4061; Av 5, btwn Calles 456 & 458; mains CUC$6-9;
h11am-midnight)
This is a spick-and-span place on Guanabo's western Boca Ciega end, with a full wine rack (French and Californian), checkered tablecloths and a good version of chicken cordon bleu. There's a nightly disco at 10pm.
Mi CayitoCUBAN$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-797-1339; Av de las Terrazas, Itabo; mains CUC$4-8;
h10am-6pm)
A small bar-restaurant reached via a raised boardwalk that overlooks Laguna Itabo, a small lagoon abutting Playa Boca Ciega. It's a quiet spot surrounded by nature selling solid if unremarkable Cuban food.
Don PepeSEAFOOD$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Av de las Terrazas; mains CUC$5-7; h10am-11pm)
When the Guanabo pizza gets too much, head to this thatched-roof, beach-style restaurant about 50m from the sand. It specializes in seafood.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Bar LunaBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Av 5, btwn Calles 482 & 484; h8am-3am)
New and privately run, Bar Luna is also a restaurant, but with its luminously lit interior and open terrace overlooking the street it's probably best utilized for its drinks and nighttime action. This being Guanabo, you can expect to see plenty of foreign men of a certain age and their Cuban escorts.
Cabaret GuanimarCLUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Av 5 & Calle 468; h9pm-3am Tue-Sat)
This outdoor club in Guanabo is really just a disco with a dancing show (at 11pm) and a heavy assemblage of jinetero/as (touts). Don't expect the Tropicana. Entry per couple is CUC$10.
3Entertainment
Centro Cultural EnguayaberaARTS CENTER
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Calle 162, btwn Avs 7a & 7b, Alamar; h9am-11pm)
In an old shirt factory, abandoned in the 1990s when it became a rubbish dump and public urinal, is this new state-sponsored community arts project in lowly Alamar, inspired by the Fábrica de Arte Cubano in Vedado. It bivouacs numerous funky venues under its cultural umbrella, including three small cinemas, a literary cafe, a theater and a crafts outlet.
The place is a shot in the arm for oft-forgotten Alamar, the ugly collection of '70s apartment blocks that gave birth to Cuban hip-hop and can now concentrate on fostering plenty more urban creativity. The center offers free entry and a wi-fi zone.
8Information
Medical Services
PharmacyPHARMACY
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-796-7146; cnr Av 5, btwn Calles 472 & 474;
h9am-6pm Mon-Fri)
In Guanabo; basics only.
Money
Banco de Crédito y ComercioBANK
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Paseo Panamericano; h8:30am-3pm Mon-Fri, to 11am Sat)
Changes money and gives cash advances.
Banco Popular de AhorroBANK
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Av 5 No 47810, btwn Calles 478 & 480; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri)
In Guanabo; has an ATM.
Post
Tourist Information
InfoturTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Av de las Terrazas, Edificio los Corales, btwn Calles 10 & 11; h8:15am-4:15pm)
Helpful government tourist office just behind Playa Santa María del Mar.
InfoturTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Av 5, btwn Calles 468 & 470; h8:15am-4:15pm)
Helpful government tourist office on Guanabo's main drag.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
Habana Bus Tour's T3 bus runs a service every 40 minutes from Parque Central to Playa Santa María del Mar, stopping at Tarará, Club Mégano, Hotel Tropicoco and Club Atlántico. It doesn't go as far as Guanabo. All-day tickets cost CUC$5. Bus A40 ( GOOGLE MAP ) stops at the roundabout at Calle 462 and Av 5 in Guanabo before heading into Havana where it terminates near Habana Vieja's central train station. It's usually crowded but costs only CUC$0.05 and runs every 20 minutes.
Car
You can find Cubacar car-rental branches at Hotel Tropicoco (
GOOGLE MAP
; %7-797-1650; Hotel Tropicoco;
h9am-5pm) and in Guanabo (
GOOGLE MAP
;
%7-214-0090; cnr Calle 464 & Av 5;
h9am-5pm). Servi-Cupet gas stations are in Guanabo (
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Av 5 & Calle 464;
h24hr) and west of Bacuranao (
GOOGLE MAP
; Vía Blanca;
h24hr).
Taxi
A car from Centro Habana to Playas del Este costs between CUC$15 and CUC$20 depending on your bargaining skills.