Varadero & Matanzas Province
Varadero & Matanzas Province Highlights
Northern Matanzas
Varadero
Varadero to Matanzas
Matanzas
Cardenas
San Miguel de los Banos & Around
Peninsula de Zapata
Central Australia & Around
Boca de Guama
Gran Parque Natural Montemar
Playa Larga
Playa Giron
Varadero & Matanzas Province
%45 / Pop 692,536
Why Go?
With a name translating as 'massacres,' Matanzas Province conceals an appropriately tumultuous past beneath its modern-day reputation for glam all-inclusive holidays. In the 17th century pillaging pirates ravaged the region's prized north coast, while three centuries later, more invaders grappled ashore in the Bahía de Cochinos (Bay of Pigs) under the dreamy notion that they were about to liberate the nation.
The Bahía de Cochinos attracts more divers than mercenaries these days, while sunbathers rather than pirates invade the northern beaches of Varadero, the vast Caribbean resort and lucrative economic 'cash cow' that stretches 20km along the sandy Península de Hicacos.
Providing a weird juxtaposition is the scruffy city of Matanzas, the music-rich provincial capital that has gifted the world with rumba, danzón (ballroom dance), countless grand neoclassical buildings and Santería (the province is the veritable cradle of Afro-Cuban religion). Tourists may be scant here outside of Varadero but soulful, only-in-Cuba experiences are surprisingly abundant.
When to Go
ADecember through April the all-inclusive hotels in the tourist set-piece – Varadero – hike prices for the temporada alta (high season), the best time for beach-basking.
AHit Matanzas city around October 10 for the annual rumba festival, Festival del Bailador Rumbero.
ANovember to April are the best months for birdwatching in the Ciénaga de Zapata.
Best Places to Sleep
Varadero & Matanzas Province Highlights
1 Matanzas Unlocking the buried secrets of the long-neglected but slowly re-emerging 'Athens of Cuba.'
2 Playa Coral Indulging in a rare opportunity to dive and snorkel from the shore at this north coast beach.
3 Cuevas de Bellamar Delving into Cuba's deepest cave system just outside Matanzas.
4 Varadero Finding your own private nirvana on the sandy expanses of Cuba's longest beach.
5 San Miguel de los Baños Admiring forgotten grandeur in long abandoned bathhouses.
6 Ciénaga de Zapata Exploring the vast, varied vegetation zones in one of Cuba's last true wildernesses.
7 Playa Girón Discovering the plunging dropoffs and colorful coral walls of Cuba's most accessible dive zone.
Northern Matanzas
Home to Cuba's largest resort area (Varadero) and one of its biggest ports (Matanzas), the northern coastline is also Matanzas Province's main population center and a hub for industry and commerce. Despite this, the overriding feel is distinctly green, and most of the region is undulating farmland – think a cross between North American prairie and the UK's Norfolk Broads – occasionally rupturing into lush, dramatic valleys like the Valle de Yumurí, or sinking into enigmatic caves outside Matanzas.
Varadero
Pop 27,630
Varadero, located on the sinuous 20km-long Hicacos Peninsula, stands at the vanguard of Cuba’s most important industry – tourism. As the largest resort in the Caribbean, it guards a huge, unsubtle and constantly evolving stash of hotels (over 60), shops, water activities and poolside entertainment; though its trump card is its beach, an uninterrupted 20km stretch of blond sand that is undoubtedly one of the Caribbean's best. But, while this large, tourist-friendly mega-resort may be essential to the Cuban economy, it offers little in the way of unique Cuban experiences.
Most Varadero tourists buy their vacation packages overseas and are content to idle for a week or two enjoying the all-inclusiveness of their resort (and why not?). However, if you’re touring Cuba independently, and want to swap your backcountry rambling for some stress-free beach life, Varadero can provide a few nights of well-earned sloth after a dusty spell on the road.
Varadero Town – West
2Activities, Courses & Tours
1Sights
For art and history, Varadero is the wrong place; nevertheless, there are a few sights worth checking out if the beach life starts to bore you. Varadero town's two central squares, Parque de las 8000 Taquillas (sporting a small subterranean shopping center) and Parque Central are disappointingly bland, save for a somewhat out-of-place colonial-style church, Iglesia de Santa Elvira ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Av 1 & Calle 47), one block east.
Mansión XanadúNOTABLE BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Av las Américas & Autopista Sur)
Everything east of the small stone water tower (it looks like an old Spanish fort, but was built in the 1930s), next to the Restaurante Mesón del Quijote, once belonged to the Du Pont family. Here the millionaire American entrepreneur, Irenée, built the three-story Mansión Xanadú. It's now an upscale hotel atop Varadero's 18-hole golf course with a top-floor bar conducive for sipping sunset cocktails.
Marina GaviotaMARINA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
At the peninsula's eastern tip, Marina Gaviota's impressive marina built in the early 2010s encompasses a wide malecón (main street), luxury apartments and the ultra-posh Hotel Meliá Marina Varadero with designer shops and restaurants, and the popular Sala de la Música music venue. Cubans come from miles around to marvel: it's a little bit more of Florida that's found its way across the water and the only marina in Cuba worthy of international rating.
Parque JosonePARK
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Av 1 & Calle 58; 
h9am-midnight; 
c)
If you're set on sight-seeing in Varadero, ensconce yourself in this pretty green oasis. These landscaped gardens date back to 1940 and take their name from the former owners, José Fermín Iturrioz y Llaguno and his wife Onelia, who owned the Arechabala rum distillery in nearby Cárdenas and built a neoclassical mansion here: the Retiro Josone.
Expropriated after the revolution, the mansion became a guesthouse for visiting foreign dignitaries. The park is now a public space for the enjoyment of all – you may see Cuban girls celebrate their quinceañeras (15th-birthday celebrations) here. Josone's expansive, shady grounds feature a lake with rowboats (per person per hour CUC$0.50) and water-bikes (per hour CUC$5), atmospheric eateries, resident geese, myriad tree species and a minitrain (ride CUC$1). There's a public swimming pool (CUC$2) in the south of the park and the odd ostrich lurking nearby. Good music can be heard nightly.
Cueva de AmbrosioCAVE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Autopista Sur; CUC$5; h9am-4:30pm)
For something completely different in Varadero's tourist circus, decamp to this large cave 500m beyond the Club Amigo Varadero on the Autopista Sur. It's known for its 47 pre-Columbian drawings, discovered in a recess in 1961 and thought to be around 2000 years old. The black-and-red drawings feature the same concentric circles seen in similar paintings on the Isla de la Juventud, perhaps a form of solar calendar. You'll be given a torch at the entrance and told to mind the bats!
Museo Municipal de VaraderoMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Calle 57; CUC$1; h10am-7pm)
Walking up Calle 57 from Av 1, you'll see many typical wooden beach-houses with elegant wraparound porches. The most attractive of the bunch, Varadero's Museo Municipal, has been turned into a balconied chalet displaying period furniture and a snapshot of the resort's history. It's more interesting than you'd think.
Varadero Town – East
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
7Shopping
2Activities
Diving & Snorkeling
Varadero has several excellent dive centers, although, this being tourist-ville, the prices are double those in the Bahía de Cochinos on Matanzas Province's south coast. Additionally, all of the 21 dive sites around the Península de Hicacos require a boat transfer of approximately one hour. Highlights include reefs, caverns and a Russian patrol boat sunk for diving purposes in 1997. The nearest shore diving is 20km west at Playa Coral. The centers also offer day excursions to superior sites at the Bahía de Cochinos (one/two immersions with transfer CUC$50/70) – or you could bus it there yourself and dive unrushed with local instructors, including an overnight stay at a local casa for just a fraction more.
Note that when the weather is inclement on the north coast, divers are often bussed over to more sheltered Bahía de Cochinos in the south.
Barracuda Scuba Diving CenterDIVING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-61-34-81; Av Kawama, btwn Calle 2 & Calle 3; h8am-7pm)
Varadero's top scuba facility is the mega-friendly, multilingual Barracuda Scuba Diving Center. Diving costs CUC$50 per dive with equipment, cave diving is CUC$80 and night diving costs CUC$65. Packages of multiple dives work out cheaper. Barracuda conducts introductory resort courses for CUC$70, and American Canadian Underwater Certificate (ACUC) courses starting at CUC$250, plus many advanced courses. Snorkeling at Playa Coral with guide is CUC$36.
When a north wind is blowing and diving isn't possible in the Atlantic, you can be transferred to the Caribbean coast in a minibus (90-minute drive); this costs a total of CUC$55/75 for one/two dives. Other popular trips include Cueva de Saturno for cave diving and Playa Coral for snorkeling.
Golf
Varadero Golf ClubGOLF
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-77-88; www.varaderogolfclub.com; Mansión Xanadú; green fees 18-holes CUC$100; h7am-7pm)
While it's no Pebble Beach, golfers can have a swinging session at this uncrowded and well-landscaped club: Cuba's first and only fully fledged 18-hole course (par 72). The original nine holes created by the Du Ponts are between Hotel Bella Costa and Du Pont's Mansión Xanadú; another nine holes added in 1998 flank the southern side of the three Meliá resorts.
Bookings for the course are made through the pro shop next to the Mansión Xanadú (now a cozy hotel with free, unlimited tee time). Bizarrely, golf carts (CUC$30 per person) are mandatory.
Kitesurfing
Ke Bola Kiteboarding SchoolKITESURFING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %52-64-43-76; Varadero Beach; kite rent per hour/day CUC$35/190; hnoon-6pm)
Kiteboarding school and equipment rental based on the beach between Hotels Laguna Azul and La Ocean El Patriarca. Beginners courses are offered from CUC$55 per hour. The beach here is ample with stiff winds.
Skydiving
Centro Internacional de ParacaidismoSKYDIVING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-28-28; http://skydivingvaradero.com; Carretera Vía Blanca Km 1.5; skydive per person CUC$190)
For those with a head for heights, Varadero's greatest thrill has to be skydiving at this base at the old airport just west of Varadero. The terminal is 1km up a dirt road, opposite Marina Acua. Skydivers take off in an Antonov AN-2 biplane and jump from 3000m using a two-harness parachute with an instructor strapped in tandem on your back.
After 35 seconds of free fall the parachute opens and you float tranquilly for 10 minutes down onto Varadero's white sandy beach. The center also offers less spectacular (but equally thrilling) ultralight flights at various points on the beach. Prices for skydiving are CUC$190 per person with CUC$80 extra for video. If you are already a qualified skydiver, solo jumps (CUC$60) are also available on production of the relevant certification.
A day's notice is usually required for skydiving (which many hotels can book on your behalf), and jumps are (obviously) weather dependent. Since opening in 1993 the center has reported no fatalities.
Find out more at the Cubatur office.
Other Activites
There are sailboards available for rent at various points along the public beach (per hour CUC$10), as are small catamarans, banana boats, sea kayaks etc. The upmarket resorts usually include these water toys in the all-inclusive price.
CCourses
ABC Academia de Arte y CulturaDANCING, LANGUAGE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-61-25-06; cnr Av 1 & Calle 34; h9am-6:30pm)
Organized through Paradiso, a state-run cultural agency, this center offers lessons in dance, Spanish language, painting and percussion. One-off two-hour classes cost CUC$15 or you can organize packages of up to 12 lessons.
Varadero Hotel Zone
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
6Drinking & Nightlife
7Shopping
TTours
Tour desks at all the main hotels churn out a regular diet of nautical or sporting activities and arrange organized sightseeing excursions from Varadero. They are perennially popular with the all-inclusive set.
Standard days trips include sunset cruises, a 4WD safari to the Valle de Yumurí, boat trips on the Río Canímar and a whole range of bus tours to places as far away as Santa Clara, Trinidad, Viñales and, of course, Havana.
Boat AdventureBOATING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-84-40; per person CUC$41; h9am-4pm)
This two-hour guided trip, leaving from a separate dock next to the Marlin Marina Chapelín, is a speedy sortie through the adjacent mangroves on two-person motorboats to view myriad forms of wildlife, including curious crocs. Bookings for all these watery excursions can also be made at most of the big hotels.
Marlin Marina Chapelín (Aquaworld)BOAT TOUR, WATER SPORTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-75-50; Autopista Sur Km 12; h8am-4pm)
Aquaworld Marina Chapelín organizes Varadero's nautical highlight in the popularity stakes: the Seafari Cayo Blanco, a seven-hour sojourn (CUC$109) from Marina Chapelín to nearby Cayo Blanco and its idyllic beach. The trip includes an open bar, lobster lunch, two snorkeling stops, live music and hotel transfers.
There's also five hours of deep-sea fishing: CUC$310 for four people (price includes hotel transfers, open bar and licenses; nonfishing companions pay CUC$30).
4Sleeping
Varadero Town
oBeny's HouseCASA PARTICULAR$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-61-17-00; www.benyhouse.com; Calle 55, btwn Av 1 & Av 2; r incl breakfast CUC$35; 
p
a)
Why would you want to blow hundreds of dollars on an all-inclusive when you can pay CUC$35 a night to stay at Beny's house? It's within spitting distance of the beach and you can converse with one of Varadero's great characters.
There's everything you need here: landscaped garden, patio, three smart rooms with queen-size beds and flatscreen TVs, restaurant specializing in fish, and – best of all – Beny himself.
Casa Mary y ÁngelCASA PARTICULAR$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-61-23-83; marisabelcarrillo@yahoo.com; Calle 43 No 4309, btwn Av 1 & Av 2; d/tr CUC$35/40; a)
The array of shady terraces at this leading private accommodation option will have hotels hereabouts looking enviously over their shoulders – as will the three gleaming, well-appointed rooms. Breakfast will run to several courses, and to several hours if the rich, strong coffee has anything to do with it. Best of all are the hosts – warm, welcoming and full of local info.
Casa Marlén y JavierCASA PARTICULAR$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-61-32-86; Av 2, btwn Calles 46 & 47; r CUC$30-35; a)
A superb house with three rooms on a quiet back street, with hosts that are among Varadero's favorites with travelers. There is a ranchón- (rustic, open-sided restaurant) style rooftop terrace where meals are served. English spoken.
Papo's HouseCASA PARTICULAR$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-61-26-40; papomoreno89@yahoo.es; Calle 55 No 114, btwn Av 1 & Av 2; r CUC$35; pa)
You're in for a treat. Papo's is one of the few houses in Cuba decorated with antique Louis XV furniture, at least in some of the rooms, meaning it has a strong following among French travelers. It's right next to Parque Josone and, like everywhere in Varadero, close to the beach. There's a wi-fi hotspot on the adjacent street.
Hostal Sol RyACASA PARTICULAR$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-61-29-25; rafael.g@nauta.cu; Calle 36 No 117, btwn Av 1 & Autopista; CUC$35-40; a)
Handy little homestay right next to the Víazul bus station with one independent apartment (with bunk beds and ideal for families) and another normal double room. Rooms have all mod cons and there's plenty of local information on hand.
Casa MenocalCASA PARTICULAR$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-60-31-64; Calle 14 No 1, cnr Callejón del Mar; s/d/tr CUC$35/45/50; a)
Traditional grey-stone Varadero house right on a dreamy slice of beach. Five rooms with roof beams and traditional 1940s feel. Book ahead.
Villa SunsetCASA PARTICULAR$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %52-39-45-42; adrylopfer@yahoo.es; Calle 13, btwn Av 1 & Av Camino del Mar; r incl breakfast CUC$45; a)
The sedate four-room Villa Sunset comes with a large well-appointed kitchen and the absence of on-site owners (not uncommon in Varadero casas particulares) means it sits somewhere between fancy boutique hostel and self-catering apartment. A good option for families, with a garden at the rear.
Starfish Las PalmasHOTEL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-70-40; www.starfishresorts.com; Calle 62, btwn Av 1 & Av 2; s/d with breakfast CUC$90/120; pa
W)
Varadero introduced a welcome new concept in November 2016 with the opening of this new Starfish hotel. It's not an all-inclusive, it's not a casa particular; rather it's a kind of mid-range, boutique, standard hotel spread over several buildings in the eastern part of town.
Rooms are fresh and clean with earthy tones and mini-balconies and you can procure a CUC$20 day-pass for the Starfish Cuatro Palmas (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-70-40; Av 1, btwn Calles 60 & 62; s/d all-inclusive CUC$135/220; pa
iW
s) across the road. The hotel is stretched across several street blocks with the reception on Calle 62.
Hotel los DelfinesRESORT$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-77-20; www.islazul.cu; cnr Av de la Playa & Calle 39; s/d all-inclusive from CUC$110/125; ais)
The Delfines is unusual for Varadero in that it's a cheap all-inclusive that inhabits the town itself rather than the spread-out hotel zone to the east. If you're used to Meliá-style luxury, then this 103-room resort probably isn't your bag, but, if you don't mind sharing a cozier more modest hotel with both foreign and Cuban guests, it could cut ice.
The hotel abuts a lovely scoop of wide protected beach and there are plenty of shops and restaurants around should you tire of the all-inclusive package.
Hotel AcuazulHOTEL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-71-32; Av 1, btwn Calle 13 & Calle 14; s/d all-inclusive CUC$102/124; aiWs)
Not fussy? Then head for this cheap-ish all-inclusive at the west end of the peninsula, whose architecture is a little Russian and where the ambience is more Cuban than international. If the buffet gets boring (and it will), there are plenty of private restaurants nearby.
Hotel Club KawamaRESORT$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-61-44-16; www.gran-caribe.cu; cnr Av 1 & Calle 1; s/d all-inclusive from CUC$124/170; pais)
A venerable old 1930s hacienda-style building, the sprawling Kawama was the first of the 60-plus hotels to inhabit this once-deserted peninsula more than 70 years ago. The service struggles here and facilities are a bit haggard despite recent renovations, but optimists will still detect some silver linings in the 235 colorful rooms which blend artfully into the sliver of beach that's Varadero's western extremity.
All-inclusive prices include everything from tennis to aquabike usage.
VARADERO'S HOTELS IN A NUTSHELL
Varadero’s confusingly large hotel zone can, for simplicity's sake, be broken into four broad segments.
The accommodations in the spread-out Cuban town (Varadero town) at the west end of the peninsula consist of older budget hotels wedged in among the shops, banks, bars and vintage beach-houses. Since 2011, town residents have been able to legally rent out rooms to foreigners and over 20 casas particulares have now taken root.
The section from Calle 64 northeast to the golf course is punctuated by a thin strip of hodgepodge architecture, from kitschy Holiday Camp to bloc-style Soviet-esque. Selling cheap packages to mainly foreign tourists, many of these hotels are already looking dated after only three or four decades in operation.
East of the Mansión Xanadú is a cluster of large single-structure hotels with impressive lobbies and multiple stories, built mostly in the early 1990s. The tallest is the spectacular 14-story Blau Varadero, designed to resemble an Aztec pyramid.
The nearer you get to the east end of the peninsula, the more it starts to look like a Florida suburb. Contemporary Cuban all-inclusive resorts favor detached one-to-three story blocks that are laid out like mini-towns and spread over multiple acres. Most of these sprawling resorts have been built since 2000 and it is here that you’ll find Varadero’s largest (the 1025-room Memories Varadero) and most exclusive (Blau Marina Palace's Planta Real) accommodations, although every year brings tidings of new resorts opening with new never-seen-before attributes.
Varadero Hotel Zone
oRoyalton Hicacos ResortRESORT$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-88-51, 45-66-88-44; www.royaltonresorts.com; Punta Hicacos; ste all-inclusive CUC$420; pais)
Having a more understated look (and more personable service) than many of its neighbors has made Royalton Hicacos one of the most appealing resorts on the end-point of the peninsula, with vast ranchón-style public areas and babbling water features lending a mellifluous air. Bedrooms, done up in sunny yellows and oranges, have king beds and huge bathrooms. No kids.
Paradisus Princesa del MarRESORT$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-72-00; www.meliacuba.com; Carretera las Morlas Km 19.5; s/d CUC$389/555; paiWs)
With a big asking price, you going to have high expectations of this adults-only Meliá resort. Despite its size (630 rooms), it's certainly heavy on the romantic theme with luxury beds around the pool, a big spa complex, loungers scattered under the palm trees and plenty of honeymooners strolling around contentedly hand-in-hand. It's certainly paradise – or 'paradisus' – for some.
Paradisus VaraderoRESORT$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-87-00; www.meliacuba.com; Autopista Sur; s/d CUC$372/585; paiWs)
More five-star Meliá luxury, this Paradisus is open to kids and slightly smaller than the 'Princesa del Mar.' The whole place is open-plan and characterized by its slim columns that direct views toward a wide beach backed by perfectly manicured lawns shaded by palms. Decor is funky-modern and the musical backing often classical.
Blau Marina PalaceRESORT$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-99-66; Autopista Sur Final; all-inclusive s/d CUC$211/338, Planta Real s/d/ste CUC$279/448/848; paiWs)
The last stop on the peninsula before Florida and looking a lot like it, Blau Marina follows the modern Varadero resort trend, ie spread-out low-rise units, lush spacious grounds and exemplary service. There’s an imitation lighthouse with fine views over the beach and marina, acres of swimming pools and a fine adjacent beach.
For added luxury (and irony) you can plump for the 'royal' upgrade on the Planta Real part of the complex on a small adjoining island, Cayo Libertad, connected by a bridge where butlers cater for your every need. Ah….socialismo!
Blau VaraderoRESORT$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-75-45; Carretera de las Morlas Km 15; all-inclusive s/d CUC$228/375; paiWs)
Suspend your judgment on Varadero’s tallest and most architecturally unsubtle resort. Trying hard to imitate an Aztec pyramid from the outside (why?), the interior is nothing short of spectacular; a 14-story enclosed courtyard embellished by hundreds of hanging plants, some falling for over 80m. Huge rooms are surgically clean and the higher ones have the best views in Varadero.
Downstairs, you’re in resort land, so expect loquacious poolside entertainers, beer in plastic cups and iffy Michael Jackson theme nights.
Mansión XanadúRESORT$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-73-88; www.varaderogolfclub.com; cnr Av las Américas & Autopista Sur; s/d all-inclusive CUC$198/264; paiW)
Varadero's most intriguing, intimate lodging is in the grand former residence of US chemical-entrepreneur Irenée Du Pont, where eight lavish rooms tempt guests. The first large-scale building on the peninsula's eastern end and an outstanding jewel in a bland architectural desert, Mansión Xanadú still displays the millions of dollars' worth of Cuban marble and furnishings commissioned by Du Pont in the 1930s.
Rates here include unlimited tee time at the adjoining golf club.
Meliá Las AméricasRESORT$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-76-00; Autopista Sur Km 7; all-inclusive s/d CUC$274/395; pais)
The smaller, more grown-up alternative to the Meliá Marina Varadero next door, Las Américas has a no-kids policy, a nice slice of palm-tree-embellished beach and fancy chandeliers. With 225 rooms, it’s too large to be intimate, though there’s a more refined ambience here than in the other resort giants nearby.
Sol PalmerasRESORT$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-70-09; www.meliacuba.com; Carretera de las Morlas; s/d all-inclusive CUC$230/338; paiWs)
For a Meliá this is quite an old hotel (1980s) and the architecture doesn't exactly take your breath away. However, the hotel was in the midst of a bit-by-bit renovation at last visit, with the revamped family bungalows looking rather handsome inside. Repeat visitors (and there are many) regularly applaud the excellent service here.
La Ocean Varadero El PatriarcaRESORT$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-81-66; www.oceanvaradero.com; Autopista Sur Km 18; s/d CUC$222/359; paiWs)
Named for a nearby giant cactus that the hotel developers mercifully didn't bulldoze, the Patriarca has a few worthy quirks. The room units are wooden rather than concrete, there's a lovely intimate almost Moorish patio beside the lobby, and poolside 'entertainers' keep a lower profile than elsewhere. Then there's the beach – pure bliss!
Meliá Marina VaraderoRESORT$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-73-30; www.meliacuba.com; Autopista Sur Final; s/d all-inclusive from CUC$347/496; paiWs)
No, that's not a beached cruise liner, but a brand-new Meliá! Part of the plushly redeveloped Marina Gaviota, this has several key advantages over its competitors up at this eastern end of the peninsula: gleaming marina views, plus access to a host of eateries and shops within the marina complex that makes the stay that little bit more varied than at the other all-inclusives.
There's no beach here (a walkway over the road connects you to one however) and reports on the rooms vary, but, if you can't make it to Miami, this is as close as you'll get in Cuba. The hotel also offers some non-all-inclusive apartments.
Meliá VaraderoRESORT$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-70-13; Carretera las Morlas; all-inclusive s/d CUC$180-240/340-400; paiWs)
Twice as big as its sister hotel Meliá Las Américas, and happy to cater to families, the 490-room Meliá Varadero immediately impresses with its cylindrical vine-draped lobby. Perched on a small rocky promontory, the beach is set to one side and offers plenty of shade. Unlike many of its Varadero brethren it offers guests free bike use.
And psst: the restaurants here are superior to its supposedly more illustrious sister; the Japanese restaurant Sakura is first-class.
Memories VaraderoRESORT$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-70-09; www.memoriesresorts.com; Autopista Sur Km 18; all-inclusive s/d CUC$208/340; pais)
By the time you reach the end of the peninsula all of the strung-out resorts appear to merge into one – this one. The Memories (opened 2008, changed its name 2012) is a kind of identikit of a modern beach hotel: 1025 rooms, international cuisine, wall-to-wall entertainment, and lots of sunburned Europeans whizzing around on golf-carts.
Hotel TuxpánRESORT$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-75-60; www.cubanacan.cu; Av las Américas Km 2; s/d all-inclusive from CUC$87/140; paiWs)
Concrete-block architecture and palm-fringed beaches make jarring bedfellows that are all too common in Varadero. But the Tuxpán is famous for other reasons, such as its disco, La Bamba, purportedly one of the resort's hottest. For those not enamored with Soviet architectonics, the beautiful beach is never far away, and the hotel is cheap!
Be Live Experience VaraderoRESORT$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-82-80; www.belivehotels.com; Av las Américas Km 2; all-inclusive 2-/3-/4-/5-/6-bed villas CUC$176/249/314/395/447; pais)
The recently re-branded Villa Cuba looks suspiciously like an airport (right down to the observation tower), but, inside, feels more like a 1970s holiday camp. The advantage here is the multitude of room sizes; villas range from two to six bedrooms, although the color scheme might have been thrown together by a hyperactive five-year-old let loose with Lego bricks.
5Eating
Varadero Town
La RampaCUBAN$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-60-24-14; Calle 43, btwn Av 1 & Av de la Playa; mains CUC$4.50-10.50; hnoon-11pm)
A modest private place that's family-run and rightly lauded for its thoroughly decent food. Seating is half inside and half out. The lobster tails are recommended (and amazingly cheap).
oSalsa SuárezINTERNATIONAL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-61-41-94; Calle 31 No 103, btwn Av 1 & Av 3; mains CUC$8-12; h10:30am-11pm; 
v)
With possibly the most all-encompassing menu of Varadero's new private restaurants, Salsa Suárez impresses with its salubrious greenery-covered patio and ultra-professional never-miss-a-beat service. Food influences are all over the map (tapas, quesadillas, risotto, sushi and good old Cuban fare), but it's consistently good, right down to the details – complementary bread baskets and excellent Italian-style coffee.
Restaurante La BarbacoaSTEAK$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-77-95; cnr Calle 64 & Av 1; steaks CUC$11-15; hnoon-11pm)
Varadero's best state-run restaurant is a steakhouse that serves ridiculously cheap steak and lobster in an old-world decor (stag's heads, horsey paraphernalia) staffed by very straight-faced waiters.
Paladar Nonna TinaITALIAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-61-24-50; www.paladar-nonnatina.it; Calle 38, btwn Av 1 & Av de la Playa; pizza & pasta CUC$6-10; hnoon-11pm; vc)
Veteran Cuba visitors will remember an era when the word 'pasta' was a euphemism for ‘mush.' But, times have changed and, thanks to inspired new restaurants such as Italian-owned Nonna Tina, the term ‘al dente’ is no longer an untranslatable foreign term. You’ll find proof in this restaurant’s pretty front garden where traveling Italophiles enjoy wood-fired thin-crust pizza, pesto linguine and proper cappuccini.
La Vaca RosadaSEAFOOD$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-61-23-07; Calle 21, btwn Av 1 & Av 2; mains CUC$7.50-23; h6:30-11pm Tue-Sun)
If it's not raining, the 'pink cow' is worth an evening of your time. The place is set on an atmospheric rooftop terrace and serves surf and turf dishes, with a cameo appearance from good old thin-crust pizza.
La FondueSWISS$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Av 1 & Calle 62; mains CUC$7-13; hnoon-midnight)
Locals rate this fondue-focused restaurant as one of the best state-run joints in town and, while it's a welcome change from rice and beans, is not quite up to Swiss standards in the melted-cheese stakes. Nonetheless, the little hot cauldrons can make a worthwhile away-day from the hotel buffet.
Restaurante MallorcaSPANISH$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Av 1, btwn Calle 61 & Calle 62; mains CUC$10; hnoon-midnight)
This is an intimate venue with a bias toward Spanish cuisine (chorizo, garbanzos, etc) that's renowned for its paella. It's surprisingly spacious inside, with a well-stocked bar (with a good South American wine selection) and generous servings and service.
DanteITALIAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-77-38; Parque Josone; pizza CUC$7.50; hnoon-10:45pm)
Going strong since 1993, Dante takes its name from an entrepreneurial chef who continues to rustle up delectable Italian fare to complement the serene lakeside setting in Parque Josone. Antipasto starts at CUC$6; Varadero's most impressive wine stash also awaits. It's living proof that some state-run restaurants in Cuba can still compete.
Restaurante Esquina CubaCUBAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Av 1 & Calle 36; mains CUC$8-13; hnoon-11pm)
This place was one-time favorite of Buena Vista Social Club luminary Compay Segundo, and the man obviously had taste. It's worth it for the pork special (CUC$13) with lashings of beans, rice and plantain chips under the gaze of the great Cuban ephemera that line the walls – and the resident American car.
Lai-LaiCHINESE$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Av 1 & Calle 18; mains CUC$6-10; hnoon-11pm)
An old stalwart set in a two-story mansion on the beach, Lai-Lai has traditional Chinese set menus. Food gets mixed reports but, well, if you've been craving that wonton soup…
oVaradero 60INTERNATIONAL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-61-39-86; www.varadero60.com; cnr Calle 60 & Av 3; mains CUC$9-19; hnoon-midnight)
Upping the ante considerably in Varadero's new private-restaurant scene is this fine-dining establishment that exudes an aura of refinement not seen since Benny Moré last cleared his throat and shouted ‘Dilo’! Lobster and solomillo (steak) are the house specialties, best washed down with some excellent Chilean and Spanish wine and rounded off with one of the quality cigars or rums on offer.
In almost a decade of repeat visits to Cuba, we’ve rarely seen such impeccable service. There’s double meaning in the name – it’s on Calle 60 and its theme is 1960s advertisements, which adorn the walls of the elegant interior.
Waco's ClubINTERNATIONAL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %52-97-14-08, 45-61-21-26; Av 3, btwn Calle 58 & Calle 59; mains CUC$12-28; hnoon-11pm; c)
Travelers rate this sequestered-away spot, which was once Varadero's Club Náutico. The restaurant is clearly aiming high with its impressive international menu (nothing as wacko as you might think with a name like this, but all well-presented and flavorsome) and refined upstairs dining terrace. The specialty is the lobster done numerous ways, including langosta Varadero (flambéed in rum).
Varadero Hotel Zone
Kike-KchoSEAFOOD$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-41-15; Autopista Sur y Final; mains CUC$15-30; hnoon-11pm)
A posh 'floating' restaurant in the Marina Gaviota, Kike-Kcho pushes its lobster, which is caught locally and stored on-site meaning it's ultra-fresh. It's backed up by all number of other fish species – cod, tuna, hake, eels, you name it. It's a great location, but food somehow lacks the 'soul' of Varadero's privately-run places.
Restaurante Mesón del QuijoteSPANISH$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Reparto la Torre; mains CUC$8-16.50; hnoon-midnight; c)
Next to a statue of Cervantes' famous Don who seems to be making off rather keenly toward the all-inclusive resorts, this restaurant is one of the eastern peninsula's only nonresort options. Perched on a grassy knoll above Av las Américas next to an old tower good to let the kids loose at, its Spanish-tinged menu (delicious paella) makes a refreshing change from the all-you-can-eat buffet.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oCafeccinoCAFE, BAKERY
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Circuito Norte, btwn Calle J & Calle I, Santa Marta; h24hr)
The best coffee in Cuba outside Havana is ignored by 99% of Varadero's tourists simply because they don't know about it. The reason: this open-all-hours cafe-bakery is in Santa Marta, the small settlement at the southwest end of the peninsula. Cafeccino is also notable for its cakes. The tres leches is better than any cake they serve in the five-star hotels hereabouts.
oBar Mirador Casa BlancaBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Mansión Xanadú, Av las Américas; CUC$2; h11am-midnight)
On the top floor of Mansión Xanadú, Bar Mirador Casa Blanca is Varadero's ultimate romantic hangout where happy hour conveniently coincides with sunset cocktails.
La Bodeguita del MedioBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Av de la Playa, btwn Calle 40 & Calle 41; h10:30am-11:30pm)
Varadero seems to have sprouted a copy of Hemingway's favorite Havana dive bar, aka La Bodeguita del Medio, a cool place where musicians strum on the courtyard and punters add graffiti to the walls inside while sipping afternoon mojitos. The question is – can you really successfully make a boho dive-bar into a chain?
There's decent comida criolla (Creole food) should you be hungry.
La Isabelica Casa del CaféCOFFEE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Marina Gaviota, Autopista Sur Final; snacks/sweets from CUC$2; h9am-11pm)
In the Miami-esque Marina Gaviota at the eastern end of the peninsula, you get a Miami-esque cafe. The Isabelica tries to impress Starbucks-starved tourists with its Ikea-like sofas and coffee-growing scenes on the walls, but the coffee is pretty average.
Palacio de la RumbaCLUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Av las Américas Km 2; CUC$10; h10pm-3am)
Overall, the most banging night out on the peninsula if you like a drink or six. There's live salsa music at weekends and a good mix of Cubans and tourists. Admission includes your drinks. It's located by the Hotel Bella Costa.
Calle 62BAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Av 1 & Calle 62; h8am-2am)
Set in the transition zone between old and new Varadero, this simple snack bar attracts clientele from both ends. It's good for a cheese sandwich during the day, and the ambience becomes feistier after dark with live salsa-music going on until midnight.
Discoteca la BambaCLUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Hotel Tuxpán, Av las Américas Km 2; CUC$10; h10pm-4am)
Varadero's most modern video disco is at Hotel Tuxpán, in eastern Varadero. It plays mostly Latin music and is considered 'hot.'
3Entertainment
oBeatles Bar-RestaurantLIVE MUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Av 1 & Calle 59; h1pm-1am)
A roquero’s delight on the edge of Parque Josone, honoring the previously banned Beatles in a bar that evokes the swinging spirit of the decidedly un-Cuban 1960s. Simple food and beer are served but the real draw is the live rock ’n’ roll kicking off alfresco at 10pm Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Varadero's best night out!
Count on energetic covers of Led Zep, the Stones, Pink Floyd and you-know-who.
Sala de la Música la MarinaLIVE MUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Marina Gaviota, Autopista Sur Final; CUC$10-15; h10pm-late)
A new-ish place at the Marina Gaviota complex that's (obviously) heavy with tourists. Most nights it's a disco with a live DJ. On Saturdays it usually has a live band playing Buena Vista Social Club music. It's pleasantly modern with white lounge sofas and an upstairs terrace with marina views.
Club MamboLIVE MUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Av las Américas; CUC$10; h11pm-2am Mon-Fri, to 5am Sat & Sun)
Cuba's 1950s mambo craze lives on at this quality live-music venue – arguably one of Varadero's hippest and best. Situated next to Club Amigo Varadero in the eastern part of town, the CUC$10 entry includes all your drinks. A DJ spins when the band takes a break, but this place is all about live music.
There's a pool table if you don't feel like dancing.
Cabaret Cueva del PirataCABARET
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-77-51; Autopista Sur; CUC$10; h10:30pm-3am Mon-Sat)
A kilometer east of the Hotel Sol Elite Palmeras, Cabaret Cueva del Pirata presents scantily clad dancers in a Cuban-style floor show with a buccaneer twist (eye patches, swashbuckling moves). This cabaret is inside a natural cave and once the show is over, the disco begins. It's a popular place, attracting a young crowd. Monday's the best night. Book through your hotel.
Casa de la MúsicaLIVE MUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Av de la Playa & Calle 42; CUC$10; h10:30pm-3am Wed-Sun)
Aping its two popular Havana namesakes, this place has some quality live acts and a definitive Cuban feel. It's in town and attracts a local crowd who pay in pesos. Non-Cubans pay in convertibles.
Centro Cultural ComparsitaCULTURAL CENTER
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Calle 60, btwn Av 2 & Av 3; CUC$1-5; h10pm-3am)
An ARTex cultural center on the edge of Varadero town, offering concerts, shows, dancing, karaoke and plenty of local flavor. Check the current schedule taped on the door.
7Shopping
Casa del RonALCOHOL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Av 1 & Calle 62; h9am-9pm)
The best selection of rum in Varadero as well as tasting opportunities in a venerable old building. It gives a through-the-ages look at Cuba's spirited relationship with the drink, including a scale model of Matanzas' Santa Elena distillery to admire as you sup.
Casa del HabanoCIGARS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Av de la Playa, btwn Calle 31 & Calle 32; h9am-6pm)
The place for cigars: it has top-quality merchandise from humidors to perfume, and helpful service. There's also a small bar-tasting room abutting a quiet slice of beach. This branch is in the center of Varadero town.
Casa de las AméricasBOOKS, MUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Av 1 & Calle 59; h9am-7pm)
A retail outlet of the famous Havana cultural institution, this place sells CDs, books and art.
Gran Parque de la ArtesaníaMARKET
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Av 1, btwn Calle 15 & Calle 16; h9am-7pm)
Open-air artisans market with private vendors selling mainly Cuba-themed crafts.
Casa del HabanoCIGARS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-78-43; cnr Av 1 & Calle 63; h9am-9pm)
Your quintessential cigar stop: it has top-quality goods from humidors to perfume and helpful service. It serves a wicked cup of coffee in the upstairs cafe. This shop is at the east end of Varadero town, closer to the resort strip.
Galería de Arte VaraderoART
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Av 1, btwn Calle 59 & Calle 60; h9am-7pm)
Antique jewelry, museum-quality silver and glass, paintings and other heirlooms from Varadero's bygone bourgeois days are sold here. As most items are of patrimonial importance, everything is already conveniently tagged with export permission.
Taller de Cerámica ArtísticaARTS & CRAFTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Av 1, btwn Calle 59 & Calle 60; h9am-7pm)
Next door to Galería de Arte Varadero and Casa de las Américas, you can buy fine artistic pottery that's made on the premises. Most items are in the CUC$200 to CUC$250 range.
ARTexGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Av 1, btwn Calle 46 & Calle 47; h9am-8pm)
Showcases CDs, T-shirts, musical instruments and more.
Centro Comercial HicacosSHOPPING CENTER
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Parque de las 8000 Taquillas; h10am-10pm)
Varadero town's modern subterranean mall in Parque de las 8000 Taquillas is small by American standards, but serves the basics including souvenirs, cigars, a spa/gym and a small market.
Plaza AméricaSHOPPING CENTER
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Autopista Sur Km 7; h10am-8:30pm)
Built in 1997, but already looking dated, Cuba’s first bona fide shopping mall is one of Varadero’s less-inspired architectural creations, though it serves its purpose. Useful outlets include a pharmacy, bank, a music store, fashion stores, restaurants and various souvenir shops.
Librería HanoiBOOKS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Av 1 & Calle 44; h9am-8:30pm)
Books in English, from poetry to politics.
8Information
Dangers & Annoyances
Crime-wise, Varadero's dangers are minimal. Aside from getting drunk at the all-inclusive bar and tripping over your bath mat on the way to the toilet, you haven't got too much to worry about. Watch out for mismatched electrical outlets in hotels. In some rooms, a 110V socket might sit right next to a 220V one. They should be labeled, but aren't always.
Out on the beach, a red flag means no swimming allowed, due to the undertow or some other danger. A blue jellyfish known as the Portuguese man-of-war, most common in summer, can produce a bad reaction if you come in contact with its long tentacles. Wash the stung area with vinegar and seek medical help if the pain becomes intense or you have difficulty breathing. Theft of unguarded shoes, sunglasses and towels is routine along this beach.
Emergencies
Asistur (
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-72-77; Av 1 No 103, cnr Calle 30; h9am-4:30pm Mon-Fri) Tourist-oriented emergency assistance in Central Varadero.
Internet Access
Most Varadero hotels have internet access, so buy your internet card at reception or at the Etecsa Telepunto (
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Av 1 & Calle 30; h8:30am-7pm).
There's a wi-fi hotspot on Calle 54.
Medical Services
Many large hotels have infirmaries that can provide free, basic first aid.
Clínica Internacional Servimed (
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-77-11; cnr Av 1 & Calle 60; h24hr) Also has a pharmacy.
Farmacia Internacional (
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-80-42; Plaza América, Autopista Sur Km 7; h9am-9pm) In the Plaza América.
Farmacia Internacional (
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-61-44-70; Av Kawama, cnr Calle 4; h9am-9pm) At the west end of the peninsula near Hotel Club Kawama.
Money
In Varadero, European visitors can pay for hotels and meals in euros. If you change money at your hotel front desk, you'll sacrifice 1% more than at a bank.
Banco de Ahorro (
GOOGLE MAP
; Calle 36, btwn Av 1 & Autopista Sur; h8:30am-4pm Mon-Fri) Popular ATM.
Banco de Crédito y Comercio (
GOOGLE MAP
; Av 1, btwn Calle 35 & 36; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun) ATM.
Banco Financiero Internacional (
GOOGLE MAP
; Autopista Sur Km 7; h9am-noon & 1-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun) Money exchange in Plaza América in the Hotel Zone.
Cadeca (
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Av de la Playa & Calle 41; h8:30am-6pm Mon-Sat, to noon Sun)
Post
Many of the larger Varadero hotels have branch post offices.
Post Office (
GOOGLE MAP
; Av 1, btwn Calles 43 & 44; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Tourist Information
Every all-inclusive hotel in Varadero has a tourist-info desk.
Cubatur (
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-72-16; cnr Av 1 & Calle 33; h8:30am-6pm) Reserves hotel rooms nationally; organizes bus transfers to Havana hotels and excursions to Península de Zapata and other destinations. Can act as a general information point, too.
Infotur (
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-29-61; cnr Av 1 & Calle 13; h8:30am-4pm) Main office is next to Hotel Acuazul, but they have a desk in most large resorts.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Juan Gualberto Gómez International Airport (
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-61-30-16, 45-24-70-15) is 20km from central Varadero toward Matanzas and another 6km off the main highway. Airlines here include Thomson Airways from London; Cubana from Buenos Aires and Toronto; Air Berlin from Düsseldorf, American Airlines from Miami; TUI Airlines from Amsterdam; and Air Transat and WestJet from various Canadian cities.
Bus
All five daily Havana buses stop at Matanzas (CUC$6, one hour) and Juan Gualberto Gómez International Airport (CUC$6, 25 minutes).
The Trinidad bus stops in Cienfuegos (CUC$16, 4½ hours).
The Santiago bus also stops in Santa Clara (CUC$11, 3¼ hours), Sancti Spíritus (CUC$17, five hours), Ciego de Ávila (CUC$19, 6¼ hours), Camagüey (CUC$25, eight hours), Las Tunas (CUC$33, 10 hours), Holguín (CUC$38, 11¼ hours) and Bayamo (CUC$41, 13 hours).
For Cárdenas, you can go on local bus 236 (CUC$1), which departs every hour or so from next to a small tunnel marked Ómnibus de Cárdenas outside Varadero's Terminal de Ómnibus. Don't rely on being able to buy tickets for non-Víazul buses from Varadero to destinations in Matanzas Province and beyond: the official line is tourists can't take them, and tourists in Varadero are generally recognizable from Cubans. With decent Spanish you could get lucky.
Cubanacán's Conectando runs a handy bus service between hotels in Varadero and hotels in Havana (bookable through hotel receptions). There's also a daily service between Varadero and Trinidad via Cienfuegos. Prices are similar to Víazul. Book tickets at least a day in advance through Infotur.
Buses from Varadero
The Terminal de Ómnibus ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Calle 36 & Autopista Sur) has daily air-con Víazul buses (www.viazul.com) to a few destinations. Warning: they fill up fast. Book ahead!
| Destination | Cost (CUC$) | Duration (hr) | Departure time |
|---|---|---|---|
| Havana | 10 | 3 | 8am, 12pm, 2pm, 4pm, 6pm |
| Santa Clara | 11 | 3 | 7:25am, 9pm |
| Santiago de Cuba | 49 | 15¼ | 9pm |
| Trinidad | 20 | 6¼ | 7:25am |
| Viñales | 22 | 7¼ | 8am |
Car
You can hire a car from practically every hotel in Varadero, and prices are pretty generic between different makes and models. Once you've factored in fuel and insurance, a standard car will cost you approximately CUC$70 to CUC$80 a day.
Aside from the hotel reps, you can try the Cubacar (
GOOGLE MAP
; %45-66-81-96; cnr Av 1, btwn Calle 21 & 22; h9am-5pm) office in town or car rental offices at the airport.
There's a Servi-Cupet gas station on the Autopista Sur at Calle 17 (
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Autopista Sur & Calle 17; h24hr), and another at Calle 54 (
GOOGLE MAP
; Autopista Sur & Calle 54).
If heading to Havana, you'll have to pay the CUC$2 toll at the booth on Vía Blanca upon leaving.
Taxi
With Víazul buses in high demand, colectivo (shared) taxis are picking up the slack. You can book one directly by phoning Cuba Taxi (%45-61-05-55), asking at your casa particular, or hanging around at the Víazul bus station. There are usually other passengers seeking lifts when fully booked buses are due to leave, so you can club together.
8Getting Around
Bicycle
Bikes are an excellent way of getting off the Hicacos Peninsula and discovering a little of the Cuba outside. Rentals are available at most of the all-inclusive resorts, and bikes are usually lent as part of the package. Some casas particulares will be able to rent (or lend) you basic bicycles. Ask around.
Bus
Varadero Beach Tour (all-day tickets CUC$5; h9am-9pm) is a handy open-top double-decker tourist bus with 45 hop-on/hop-off stops linking all the resorts and shopping malls along the entire length of the peninsula. It utilizes well-marked stops with route and distance information. Buy tickets on the bus itself.
A gimmicky toy train connects the three large Meliá resorts.
Local buses 47 and 48 run from Calle 64 to Santa Marta, south of Varadero on the Autopista Sur; bus 220 runs from Santa Marta to the far eastern end of the peninsula. There are no fixed schedules. Fares are small change. You can also utilize bus 236 to and from Cárdenas, which runs the length of the peninsula.
Horse Carts
A state-owned horse-and-cart trip around Varadero costs around CUC$10 for a full two-hour tour – plenty of time to see the sights.
Taxi
Metered tourist taxis in Varadero charge a CUC$1 starting fee plus CUC$1 per kilometer (same tariff day and night). Coco-taxis (coquitos or huevitos in Spanish) charge less with no starting fee. A taxi to Cárdenas/Havana (15 minutes/2¼ hours) will be about CUC$20/85 one way. Taxis hang around all the main hotels and the bus station, or you can phone Cuba Taxi.