Camagüey Province
Camagüey Province
%32 / Pop 782,500
Why Go?
Neither Occidente nor Oriente, Camagüey is Cuba's provincial contrarian, a region that likes to go its own way in political and cultural matters – and usually does – defying expectations in Havana and Santiago. These seeds were sown in the colonial era, when Camagüey's preference for cattle ranching over sugarcane meant less reliance on slave labor and more enthusiasm to eliminate the whole system.
Today Cuba's largest province is a mostly pancake-flat pastoral landscape of grazing cattle, lazy old sugar mill towns and, in the south, a few low-but-lovely hill ranges. It's flanked by Cuba's two largest archipelagos: Sabana-Camagüey in the north and Jardines de la Reina in the south, both almost virgin in places, though development is already underway in the cays to the north.
With its alluring architecture, illustrious citizens of note and cosmopolitan airs, the staunchly Catholic capital of Camagüey is the star attraction.
When to Go
AIn February, Camagüeyans celebrate the Jornada de la Cultura Camagüeyana (Days of Camagüeyan Culture) to mark the city's founding in 1514.
AFor outdoor enthusiasts, March is prime time for viewing migratory birds passing through the little-developed northern keys.
AAt Playa Santa Lucía, divers can watch the amazing underwater shark-feeding show held seasonally between the months of June and January, with the best beach weather from November on.
AHeld the first week of October, Camagüey showcases some more of its cultural prowess with the Festival Nacional de Teatro (National Theater Festival).
Best Places to Sleep
Camagüey Province Highlights
1 Sierra del Chorrillo Retreating into these verdant hills harboring rare birdlife and petrified forests.
2 Playa Los Cocos Swimming off the white-sand beach and soaking up the culture of the tiny village of La Boca.
3 Reserva Ecológica Limones Tuabaquey Checking out the caves, craters and natural gorge of one of Cuba's newest reserves.
4 Guáimaro Making a history stop in the city of emancipation, where Cuba's first constitution was signed.
5 Cayo Cruz Fly-fishing for tarpon and bonefish in the shallow flats off the key.
6 Camagüey heritage Walking the winding streets of the city to visit artist studios, explore intricate churches and soak up vibrant local life.
Camagüey
Pop 301,000
Cuba's third-largest city is easily the suavest and most sophisticated after Havana. The arts shine bright here and it's also the bastion of the Catholic Church on the island. Well known for going their own way in times of crisis, its resilient citizens are called agramontinos by other Cubans, after local First War of Independence hero Ignacio Agramonte, coauthor of the Guáimaro constitution and courageous leader of Cuba's finest cavalry brigade.
Camagüey's pastel colonials and warren-like streets are inspiring. Get lost for a day or two exploring hidden plazas, baroque churches, riveting galleries and congenial bars and restaurants. The flip side is that there is a higher-than-average number of jinteros (touts) who can dog you as you stroll.
In 2008, Camagüey's well-preserved historical center was made Cuba's ninth Unesco World Heritage Site and in 2014 the city celebrated its quincentennial.
History
Founded in February 1514 as one of Diego Velázquez' hallowed seven 'villas,' Santa María del Puerto Príncipe was originally established on the coast near present-day Nuevitas. A series of bloody rebellions by the local Taíno people caused the site of the city to be moved twice in the early 16th century. It established in its present spot in 1528. Its name was changed to Camagüey in 1903, in honor of the camagua tree from which all life is descended, according to an indigenous legend.
Despite continued attacks by corsairs, Camagüey developed quickly in the 1600s with an economy based on sugar production and cattle-rearing. Acute water shortages in the area forced the townsfolk to make tinajones (clay pots) to collect rainwater. Even today Camagüey is known as the city of tinajones – the pots now ornamental.
Besides swashbuckling independence hero Ignacio Agramonte, Camagüey has produced several personalities of note, including poet and patriot Nicolás Guillén and eminent doctor Carlos J Finlay, the man largely responsible for discovering the causes of yellow fever. In 1959 the prosperous citizens quickly fell foul of the Castro revolutionaries when local military commander Huber Matos (Fidel's one-time ally) accused El Líder Máximo of burying the revolution. He was duly arrested and later thrown in prison.
Loyally Catholic, Camagüey welcomed Pope John Paul II in 1998 and in 2008 hosted the beatification of Cuba's first saint, 'Father of the Poor' Fray José Olallo, who aided the wounded of both sides in the 1868–78 War of Independence. In 2014 the city was comprehensively renovated (and given four new hotels) in honor of its quincentennial.
Camagüey
1Top Sights
1Sights
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
3Entertainment
7Shopping
1Sights
Camagüey's peculiar street pattern was designed to confuse pillaging invaders and provide cover for its long-suffering residents (or so legend has it). As a result, Camagüey's sinuous streets and narrow, winding alleys are more reminiscent of a Moroccan medina than the geometric grids of Lima or Mexico City.
City Center
oCasa de Arte JoverGALLERY
(
MAP
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; %32-29-23-05; Martí No 154, btwn Independencia & Cisneros; 
h9am-noon & 3-5pm Mon-Sat)
F
Camagüey is home to two of Cuba's most creative and prodigious contemporary painters, Joel Jover and his wife Ileana Sánchez. Their magnificent home in Plaza Agramonte functions as a gallery and piece of art in its own right, with a slew of original pieces, resident chihuahuas and delightfully kitschy antiques on show. Guests can browse and purchase high-quality original art.
The artists also keep a studio and showroom, the Estudio-Galería Jover (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Calle Ramón Pinto 109; h9am-noon & 3-5pm Mon-Sat), in Plaza San Juan de Dios.
Museo Casa Natal de Ignacio AgramonteMUSEUM
(
MAP
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; %32-28-24-25; Av Agramonte No 459; CUC$2; h9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat, to 1pm Sun)
The birthplace of independence hero Ignacio Agramonte (1841–73), the cattle rancher who led the Camagüey area's revolt against Spain. The house – an elegant colonial building in its own right – tells of the oft-overlooked role of Camagüey and Agramonte in the First War of Independence. The hero's gun is one of his few personal possessions displayed.
In July 1869, rebel forces under Agramonte bombarded Camagüey. Four years later he was killed in action at the young age of 32. Cuban folk singer Silvio Rodríguez lionized this hero, nicknamed 'El Mayor' (the major), on his album Días y flores. It's opposite Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Merced, on the corner of Independencia.
Plaza San Juan de DiosSQUARE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Hurtado & Calle Ramón Pinto)
Looking more Mexican than Cuban (Mexico was capital of New Spain so the colonial architecture was often superior), Plaza San Juan de Dios is Camagüey's most picturesque and beautifully preserved corner. Its eastern aspect is dominated by the Museo de San Juan de Dios, formerly a hospital. Behind the square's arresting blue, yellow and pink building facades lurk worthwhile restaurants.
Parque Ignacio AgramonteSQUARE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Martí & Independencia)
Camagüey's most dazzling square in the heart of the city invites relaxation with rings of marble benches and an equestrian statue (c 1950) of Camagüey's precocious War of Independence hero, Agramonte.
Casa de la DiversidadMUSEUM
(
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; %32-29-25-98; Cisneros No 150; CUC$1; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat, 8am-noon Sun)
Impossible to miss due to its eclectic facade (a mix of Moorish and neoclassical elements), this museum's best exhibit is the building itself. Four exhibition rooms dedicated to slavery, costumes, art and architecture are explored relatively quickly, but it's worth savoring the ornate lobby with soaring pillars. Pride of place, however, goes to the toilets (yes, toilets!) where intricate frescos have been uncovered. The ladies' is the most ornate.
Museo de San Juan de DiosMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Plaza San Juan de Dios; CUC$2; h9am-5pm Tue-Sat, to 1pm Sun)
Housed in a former hospital administered by Father José Olallo, the friar who became Cuba’s first saint, the museum chronicles Camagüey’s history and exhibits some local paintings. Its front cloister dates from 1728 and a unique triangular rear patio with Moorish touches was built in 1840. Ceasing to function as a hospital in 1902, it served as a teachers' college, a refuge during the 1932 cyclone and the Centro Provincial de Patrimonio responsible for restoring local monuments.
At the time of update, the museum was under renovation.
Centro de Interpretacion de la CiudadARCHITECTURE
(La Maqueta;
MAP
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; %32-22-12-35; Martí; CUC$1; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun)
Cuba loves its maquetas (scale models) and Camagüey is no exception. This one offers a good overview of the twisting streets of the city.
Casa Natal de Nicolás GuillénCULTURAL CENTER
(
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; Hermanos Agüero No 58; h9am-5pm)F
This modest house gives visitors a small insight into Cuba's late national poet and his books, and today doubles as the Instituto Superior de Arte, where local students come to study music. At the time of writing, this center was closed for renovation.
Casa FinlayMUSEUM
(
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; %32-29-67-45; Cristo, btwn Cisneros & Lugareño; CUC$1; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat)
Dr Carlos J Finlay (1833–1915), Camagüey's other hero, made medical breakthroughs in discovering how mosquitoes transmit yellow fever. Calling this place – his birth house – a museum is a stretch, but on a good day staff can enlighten you on his life story and scientific feats. There's a splendidly grizzled indoor patio.
CAMAGüEY'S CHURCHES
If Cuba has a Catholic soul, it undoubtedly resides in Camagüey, where ecclesial spires rise above the narrow tangle of streets.
The Cathedral
Any exploration of Camagüey's religious history should begin at the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Cisneros 168), rebuilt in the 19th century on the site of an earlier chapel dating from 1530. The cathedral, which is named for the city's patron saint, was fully restored with funds raised from Pope John Paul II's 1998 visit. While not Camagüey's most eye-catching church, it is noted for its noble Christ statue that sits atop a craning bell tower. You can climb the tower for CUC$1.
The Eclectic
The Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Merced ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Plaza de los Trabajadores), dating from 1748, is arguably Camagüey's most impressive colonial church. Local myth tells of a miraculous figure that floated from the watery depths here in 1601; it's been a place of worship ever since. The active convent in the attached cloister is distinguished by its two-level arched interior, spooky catacombs and the dazzling Santo Sepulcro, a solid-silver coffin.
The Baroque
Gleaming after a much-lauded 2007 renovation, Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr República & Av Agramonte) is a massive baroque structure dating from 1779. Its picturesque cream-and-terracotta tower predates the rest of the church and is an attention-grabbing landmark on the city skyline. Inside there are ornate baroque frescoes and the hallowed font where Ignacio Agramonte was baptized in 1841.
The Neo-Gothic
One of Cuba’s rare neo-Gothic churches beautifies Parque Martí, a few blocks east of Parque Ignacio Agramonte. The triple-spired Iglesia de Nuestra Corazón de Sagrado Jesús ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr República & Luaces) is technically from an architectural subgenre called Catalan Gothic and dazzles with its ornate stained glass, decorative ironwork and pointed arches.
The Twin Towers
The Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Plaza del Carmen), a twin-towered baroque beauty dating from 1825, is another church that shares digs with a former convent. The Monasterio de las Ursalinas is a sturdy arched colonial building with a pretty, cloistered courtyard that once provided shelter for victims of the furious 1932 hurricane. Today it is the City Historian's offices.
The San Lázaro
The Iglesia de San Lazaro ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Carretera Central Oeste & Calle Cupey) is a beautiful (if diminutive), cream-colored church dating from 1700, although as interesting is the nearby cloistered hospital constructed a century later by virtuous Franciscan monk Padre Valencia to nurse leprosy victims. It's 2km west of the center.
The Diminutive
The Iglesia de San Cristo del Buen Viaje ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Plaza del Cristo), next door to the necropolis and overlooking a quiet square, is one of the least visited of Camagüey's ecclesial octet, but it is worth a peek if you're exploring the Necropolis de Camagüey (behind). An original chapel was raised here in 1723, but the current structure is of mainly 19th-century vintage.
West of the City Center
oPlaza del CarmenSQUARE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Hermanos Agüero, btwn Honda & Carmen)
Around 600m west of the frenzy of República sits another sublimely beautiful square, one less-visited than the central plazas. It's backed on the eastern side by the masterful Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen, one of the prettiest city churches.
Little more than a decade ago Plaza del Carmen was a ruin, but it's now restored to a state better than the original. The cobbled central space has been infused with giant tinajones (clay pots), atmospheric street lamps and unique life-sized sculptures of camagüeyanos going about their daily business (reading newspapers and gossiping, mostly).
oMartha Jiménez PérezGALLERY
(
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; %32-25-75-59; Martí 282, btwn Carmen & Onda; h8am-8pm)F
In Cuba's ceramics capital, the studio-gallery of Martha Jiménez Pérez shows the work of one of Cuba's greatest living artists. See everything from pots to paintings being produced here. The studio overlooks Pérez' magnum opus, Plaza del Carmen''s alfresco statue of three gossiping women entitled Chismosas (gossipers). The chismosas also feature in many of her paintings inside.
Necropolis de CamagüeyCEMETERY
(
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; Plaza del Cristo; h7am-6pm)F
This sea of elaborate, lop-sided, bleached-white Gothic tombs makes up Cuba's most underrated cemetery, secreting the resting place of Camagüey-born independence hero Ignacio Agramonte, among others. It might not quite have the clout of Havana's Cementerio Colón but isn't too far behind in its roll call of famous incumbents.
Agramonte lies halfway down the second avenue on the left after the entrance (the blue-painted tomb). Harder to find are the tombs of Camagüey freedom-fighters Tomás Betancourt or Salvador Cisneros Betancourt (one-time President of Cuba); show up for tours which depart from the entrance behind Iglesia de San Cristo de Buen Viaje (early to mid-morning is best).
North of the City Center
oMuseo Provincial Ignacio AgramonteMUSEUM
(
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; %32-28-24-25; Av de los Mártires No 2; CUC$2; h9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat, to 1pm Sun)
Named (like half of Camagüey) after the exalted local War of Independence hero, this cavernous museum, just north of the train station, is in a Spanish cavalry barracks dating from 1848. There's some impressive artwork upstairs, including much by Camagüey natives, as well as antique furniture and old family heirlooms.
The art collection features both 19th- and early 20th-century art such as the haunting work of camagüeyano Fidelio Ponce, and artes plasticos (modern art) by nationally renowned figures like Alfredo Sosabravo.
South & East of the City Center
El Lago de los SueñosPARK
( GOOGLE MAP )
The so-called 'lake of dreams' is as an out-of-town escape from Camagüey's urban maze. It uses the same inventive (if slightly kitschy) methodology employed by a similar venture in Ciego de Ávila. The bizarro pièce de résistance is an ice-cream parlor encased in the fuselage of an old Soviet plane. Runner up is the antediluvian train-carriage-turned-restaurant.
Elsewhere, you can enjoy the lake, go for a boat ride or even stroll along a specially constructed malecón (main street). There are copious places to eat.
Mercado Agropecuario HatibonicoMARKET
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Carretera Central; h7am-6pm)
If you visit just one market in Cuba, make it this muddy one. Beside the murky Río Hatibonico just off the Carretera Central, and characterized by its pregones (singsong, often comic, offering of wares) ringing through the stalls, this is a classic example of Cuban-style free enterprise juxtaposed with cheaper but lower-quality government stalls.
The best section to visit is the herberos (purveyors of herbs, potions and secret elixirs); also visit the plant nursery where Cubans can buy dwarf mango trees and various ornamental plants. Keep a tight hold on your money belt.
Casino CampestrePARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Carretera Central)
Cuba's largest urban park sits across the Río Hatibonico from the old town, and was laid out in 1860. There's shaded benches, a baseball stadium, concerts and activities. On a traffic island near the park entrance, there's a monument dedicated to Mariano Barberán and Joaquín Collar, Spaniards who made the first nonstop flight between Seville, Spain and Camagüey, Cuba, in 1933.
The pair made the crossing in their plane Cuatro Vientos, but tragically the plane disappeared when flying to Mexico a week later. Ubiquitous bici-taxis are on hand to pedal you around.
TTours
oCamaguax ToursTOURS
(
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; %32-28-73-64, 58-64-23-28; www.camaguax.com/en; República 155 No 7; h8:30am-5:30pm)
A private agency with English- and French-speaking guides and myriad quality offerings throughout the province with a cultural or adventure focus. Hits include a city tour, sugarcane farm visits, hiking and caving. There's excursions to Sierra del Chorrillo, Reserva Nacional Limones Tuabaquey and Río Máximo. Uses 4WD vehicles for rough roads and has overnight options.
EcoturTOURS
(
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; %32-24-49-57; República No 278; h8am-noon & 1-4:30pm Mon-Sat)
Can arrange excursions to the Hacienda la Belén in the Sierra del Chorrillo and Reserva Ecológica Limones Tuabaquey. Read the fine print as you book since some outings don't include transport. The office is inside the Complejo Turístico Bambú.
zFestivals & Events
Festival Nacional de TeatroPERFORMING ARTS
(www.festivalteatro.pprincipe.cult.cu; hlate Sept-early Oct)
Camagüey showcases the best Cuban theater has to offer at the Festival Nacional de Teatro (National Theater Festival).
San Juan CamagüeyanoCARNIVAL
(hJun 24-29)
The annual carnival, known as the San Juan Camagüeyano, runs from June 24 to 29 and includes dancers, floats and African roots music.
4Sleeping
The city is undergoing a boom in boutique-hotel accommodations, with two more planned to open in the near future.
oLos VitralesCASA PARTICULAR$
(Emma Barreto & Rafael Requejo;
MAP
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; %32-29-58-66, 52-94-25-22; requejobarreto@gmail.com; Avellaneda No 3, btwn General Gómez & Martí; r CUC$30; 
p
a)
A former convent, this enormous, painstakingly restored colonial house sports broad arches, high ceilings and dozens of antiques. The helpful owner Rafael is an architect and it shows. Three rooms with good water pressure are arranged around a shady patio draped in lush gardens that are a highlight. There's over-the-top breakfasts and dinners with special orders available (vegetarians welcome).
Touts often lead guests astray to another 'Vitrales' – be sure to call ahead for taxi pickup and confirm your reservation a day ahead.
La China HouseCASA PARTICULAR$
(
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; %32-28-30-28, 54-65-92-40; houselachina@gmail.com; Padre Valencia No 57; r $25; a)
In front of the Teatro Principal, this impeccably kept 2nd-story apartment features modern art and colonial style. There are two rooms with leather headboards, TV and electric showers. Friendly host Misleydi offers dinner and can arrange massage, salsa and guitar classes. With some English.
Natural CaribeCASA PARTICULAR$
(
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; %32-29-14-17, mobile 52-76-75-98; requejoarias@nauta.cu; Avellaneda No 8; r CUC$30; a)
S
Tropical minimalism sets the tone for this sleek renovated colonial. Cleverly designed by a local architect, it wouldn't look out of place in a New York loft, albeit one with a tropical courtyard strewn with ferns. Breakfasts are large. The roof terrace is undergoing renovations to add a barbecue and lounge area.
Two rooms and a terrace integrate light, space, water and sustainable building materials.
Casa LáncaraCASA PARTICULAR$
(
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; %32-28-31-87; aledino@nauta.cu; Avellaneda No 160; r CUC$30; a
W)
A dose of Seville with beautiful blue-and-yellow azulejos (tiles), this welcoming colonial is overseen by Andalusian fanatic Alejandro and his wife, Dinorah. The two rooms are hung with original local art and there's a roof terrace all within spitting distance of the Soledad church. They are in the process of building a gorgeous lodging across the street.
Maria Eugenia RequejoCASA PARTICULAR$
(
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; %32-25-86-70; Avellaneda No 3-A; r CUC$30; aW)
An offshoot of Los Vitrales run by the daughter of the owner, this ultramodern apartment is good for families or those who want some privacy.
Casa los HelechosCASA PARTICULAR$
(
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; %32-29-48-68, 52-31-18-97; v.manuel@nauta.cu; República No 68; r CUC$30; a)
Helechos means 'ferns' and plenty occupy the long interior patio of this pleasant colonial house. There's a sizeable room with two beds and its own private kitchen, perfect for families.
Casa YanevaCASA PARTICULAR$
(
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; %32-29-79-31; www.casayaneva.com; San Martin No 763; CUC$30; aW)
A gleaming option that's a bit of a walk from the center, perhaps best for those with a rental car. Eva knows tourism and provides three very clean and secure rooms, though they are small, with safe and refrigerator. There's also an interior patio.
Casa AngelitoCASA PARTICULAR$
(
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; %32-29-82-71; Maceo No 62 (altos); CUC$25; pa)
Angelito jokes that he's the cozier, cheaper alternative to the Gran Hotel in front. Climb the stairs to this 2nd-floor accommodation with small, modest rooms off a large terrace. Hang out sipping a cocktail or take breakfast among the plants. It's an affable family home and very central.
Alba FerrazCASA PARTICULAR$
(
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; %32-28-30-81; jose.collot5477@gmail.com; Ramón Guerrero No 106; r CUC$25-30; a)
A home with lovely, multigenerational hosts. Two rooms open onto a rather grand colonial courtyard bedecked with plants. There's a roof terrace and your host, Alba, can arrange dance and guitar lessons for guests. Alba can also arrange a taxi pickup from the bus station or airport.
oEl MarquésBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(
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; %32-24-49-37; ventas@ehoteles.cmg.tur.cu; Cisneros No 222; s/d incl breakfast CUC$120/160; a
iW)
Simply lovely, this six-room colonial is a treasure trove of character. Rooms shoot off a central courtyard with rod-iron furniture, each door guarded by a Martha Jiménez Pérez sculpture on a pedestal. Bedrooms feature satellite TV, safe and air-conditioning. There's period furniture and quiet throughout. Also features a small bar with 24-hour service and hot tub.
It's part of the exclusive E hotel brand managed by Cubanacán.
oHotel Camino de HierroBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(
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; %32-28-42-64; ventas@ehoteles.cmg.tur.cu; Plaza de la Solidaridad; s/d CUC$115/140; ai)
Among the best of Camagüey's boutique hotels, it occupies an attractive city center building that was once an office for the Cuban ferrocarril (railway). So goes the railway theme. There's also lovely colonial furniture and romantic balconies. Guests enjoy a 24-hour bar and a pleasant patio privy to all the downtown action.
It's part of the exclusive E hotel brand managed by Cubanacán.
Hotel AvellanadaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(
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; %32-24-49-58; ventas@ehoteles.cmg.tur.cu; República No 226; s/d CUC$115/140; ai)
Named for a notable 19th-century, Cuban woman writer, this ground-floor hotel emanates class. The colonial has a large interior patio lined with columns, patterned tiles and a portrait of Gertrudis herself, famed for her stories of love, feminist stance and antislavery messages. Rooms feature a safe, minibar, TV and big windows. If you want to splurge, book the fabulous minisuite.
It's part of the exclusive E hotel brand managed by Cubanacán.
Hotel SevillanaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(
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; %32-24-49-37; Calle Cisneros, btwn Hermanos Agüero & Martí; s/d CUC$120/160; ai)
In a gorgeous 1920's mansion decked with stained glass and chandeliers. Great spaces include a huge courtyard with a spurting fountain and a rooftop terrace with hot tubs. Compared to all this, rooms are less impressive, though adequate. There's a small on-site restaurant too.
It's part of the exclusive E hotel brand managed by Cubanacán.
Hotel Santa MaríaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(
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; Ignacio Agramonte, cnr República; s/d incl breakfast CUC$120/160; aiW)
An attractive boutique hotel with elegant common areas depicting scenes of Camagüey and sculptures by Martha Jiménez Pérez. The 31 rooms come equipped with safe, TV and minibar and suites feature claw-foot tubs. The roof garden restaurant has good views outdoors. There's one room with wheelchair access.
Gran HotelHOTEL$$$
(
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; %32-29-20-93; Maceo No 67, btwn Av Agramonte & General Gómez; s/d incl breakfast CUC$132/152; ai
s)
This time-warped, city center hotel classic dates from 1939. A haughty prerevolutionary atmosphere stalks the 72 clean rooms reached by a marble staircase or ancient lift replete with cap-doffing attendants. There are bird's-eye, citywide views from the 5th-floor restaurant or gorgeous rooftop bar. A piano bar is accessed through the lobby and an elegant renaissance-style swimming pool shimmers out back.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
REFUGIO DE FAUNA SILVESTRE RíO MáXIMO
These little known and hard to reach wetlands sit between the Ríos Máximo and Cagüey on the northern coast of Camagüey Province. There are flamingos, migratory water fowl, American crocodiles and a healthy population of West Indian manatees. It has been protected since 1998 as a refugio de fauna silvestre (wildlife refuge) and, more recently, as a Ramsar Convention Site.
Yet the Río Máximo delta faces a precarious future due to human and agricultural contamination coupled with occasional droughts. Once the largest flamingo nesting ground in the world, the population has been largely depleted due to contamination.
The area is roadless and hard to reach, but trips in can sometimes be organized via Ecotur or Camaguax Tours in Camagüey.
5Eating
Restaurante CarmenCUBAN$
(
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; %32-28-79-02; Maceo No 6; mains CUC$2-12; h11am-11pm; a)
With a Siberian chill thanks to hyperactive air-conditioning, this popular restaurant on the pedestrian stretch of Maceo brims with locals at midday. Most come for the cheap lunch specials – get yours early because they usually run out. It's consistent, with a diverse menu that ranges from sandwiches to stewed meat with rice.
Mercado Agropecuario HatibonicoMARKET$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Carretera Central; h7am-6pm)S
Located alongside the fetid Río Hatibonico, this is a classic example of a Cuban market where government (lower quality, but cheaper price) and private (vice versa) produce is sold side by side. Chew on peso sandwiches and fresh batidos (fruit shakes, sold in jam jars) and buy fruit and vegetables grown within 500m of where you stand.
There's a good herb section and the market also sells an excellent selection of fruit and vegetables. Watch out for pickpockets.
Café CiudadCAFE$
(
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; %32-25-84-12; Plaza Agramonte, cnr Martí & Cisneros; snacks CUC$2-5; h10am-10pm; W)
Camagüey has made Agramonte-like efforts to carve culinary quality into its historical inheritance. This lovely plaza-hugging colonial cafe melds grandiosity with great service, emulating anything in Havana Vieja. Try the jamón serrano (cured ham) or savor a superb café con leche under the louvers. The picture occupying one wall shows the exact continuation of the old street.
Restaurante Italiano Santa TeresaITALIAN$
(
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; %32-29-71-08; Av de la Victoria No 12, btwn Padre Carmelo & Freyre; meals CUC$3-7; hnoon-midnight)
An Italian feast-in-waiting. Divine pizza, great ice cream and more-than-passable espresso on the patio definitely make this a spot to savor.
Café CubanitasCAFE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Independencia & Av Agramonte; snacks CUC$1-3; h24h)
Just off Plaza de los Trabajadores, Cubanitas is alfresco and lively. And it really does stay open all hours, offering cold beer and 3am ropa vieja (shredded beef and vegetables in a tomato salsa).
Gran Hotel Snack BarFAST FOOD$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Maceo No 67, btwn Av Agramonte & General Gómez; snacks CUC$1-4; h9am-11pm)
Has coffee, sandwiches, chicken and ice cream. The hamburgers (when available) are good and the atmosphere is 1950s retro.
oCasa AustriaEUROPEAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-28-55-80; Lugareño No 121, btwn San Rafael & San Clemente; meals CUC$5-14; h7:30am-11:30pm; a)
Locals line up for strudel and decadent cakes at this Austrian-run cafe. After so much comida criolla (creole food), travelers embrace the international menu featuring chicken cordon bleu, schnitzel and garbanzos stewed in tomato sauce with bacon. It's all good. The setting, stuffed with heavy colonial furniture, is a bit claustrophobic, but there's patio dining as well.
oEl PasoINTERNATIONAL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-27-43-21; Hermanos Agüero No 261, btwn Carmen & Honda; meals CUC$5-10; h9am-11pm)
Finally, a private restaurant with all-day hours, plus a funky interior and an enviable Plaza del Carmen location. There's flavorful ropa vieja (spiced shredded beef), heaping bowls of arroz con pollo a la chorrillana (chicken, rice prunes and peppers in a ceramic bowl). Try pan patato for dessert – consisting of cassava and coconut.
The restaurant has a lovely patio and 2nd-floor terrace seating. It also has a full wine and cocktail menu.
Mesón del PríncipeCUBAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %52-40-45-98; Astilleros No 7; meals CUC$4-12; hnoon-midnight)
Elegant restaurant that offers an affordable fine-dining experience in a typically refined Camagüeyan residence. It is places like this that have put Camagüey at the cutting edge of Cuba's new culinary revolution – a notch above Santiago.
Restaurante la IsabellaITALIAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-24-29-25; cnr Av Agramonte & Independencia; mains CUC$5-12; h11am-4pm & 6:30-10pm)
This hip restaurant was opened during a visit by delegates from Gibara's iconic film festival, Festival Internacional del Cine Pobre, in 2008. Blending Italian food (pizza, lasagna, fettuccine) with a maverick movie-themed decor and director-style seats, the restaurant occupies the site of Camagüey's first ever cinema.
Restaurante de los Tres ReyesCARIBBEAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-28-68-12; Plaza San Juan de Dios No 18; meals CUC$8-12; h10am-10pm)
A handsome, state-run place set in beautiful colonial digs on Plaza San Juan de Dios that sells mainly chicken dishes. Ruminate on Camagüey life by one of the giant iron-grilled windows out front or enjoy greater privacy on a plant-bedecked interior patio.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
RESERVA ECOLóGICA LIMONES TUABAQUEY
One of Cuba’s newest reserves, these heavily wooded uplands ( GOOGLE MAP ; CUC$6) occupy the Sierra de Cubitas in northern Camagüey Province. The star attraction is Cuba's most important indigenous art: pre-Columbian cave paintings at Cueva Pichardo and Cueva María Teresa. Its Hoyo de Bonet is a unique 300m-wide, 90m-deep natural karstic depression covered in vegetation with a cool, humid microclimate replete with trippy giant ferns. The rich birdlife includes an abundance of toccorros and cartacubas known to produce a symphony of birdsong.
Paths fan out to caves, craters and a narrow natural gorge called the Paso de los Paredones, with sheer 40m-high walls. Historical infamy is recalled nearby: a post marks the spot where, in February 1869, a group of mambises (19th-century Cuban independence fighters) successfully saw off a Spanish attack.
Walking on the trails is permitted with a guide only. Guided tours of the reserve can be arranged at Ecotur or with private agencies in Camagüey. There is a visitor center and accommodation in cabins.
The reserve lies approximately 35km north of the city of Camagüey on the main (bumpy) road between Morón and Nuevitas. The turnoff is near the village of Cubitas.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Maybe it's the pirate past, but Camagüey has great tavern-style drinking houses.
Gran Hotel Bar TerrazaBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Maceo No 67, btwn Av Agramonte & General Gómez; h1pm-2am)
The aesthete's choice. At the top of the Gran Hotel, its cocktail maestro will prepare you mojitos and daiquiris while you gaze at the city's premier vista – all Camagüey laid bare before you. Duck below to the swimming pool for the bizarrely addictive water ballet shows, happening several times weekly at 9:15pm.
Bodegón Don CayetanoBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-29-19-61; República No 79; hnoon-11pm)
This casual Spanish-style taverna, nestled beneath Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, is best used as a drinking option. There's a decent wine collection but better food elsewhere. Tables spill into the adjacent alley.
Bar YesterdayBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-24-49-43; República No 222; hnoon-midnight Mon-Fri, to 1am Sat & Sun)
This Beatles-themed bar has a large inner patio and life-sized bronze sculptures of the fab four. Locals come for snacks and chilly brews.
Bar El CambioBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Independencia & Martí; h7am-late)
The Hunter S Thompson choice. A dive bar with graffiti-splattered walls and interestingly named cocktails, this place consists of one room, four tables and bags of atmosphere.
Taberna BucaneroBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-25-34-13; cnr República & Fidel Céspedes; h24hr)
The beer drinker's choice. Fake pirate figures and Bucanero beer on tap characterize this swashbuckling tavern, faintly reminiscent of a British pub.
3Entertainment
oTeatro PrincipalTHEATER
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-29-30-48; Padre Valencia No 64; tickets CUC$5-10; hshows 8:30pm Fri & Sat, 5pm Sun)
If a show's on, GO! Second only to Havana in its ballet credentials, the Camagüey Ballet Company, founded in 1971 by Fernando Alonso (ex-husband of number-one Cuban dancing diva, Alicia Alonso), is internationally renowned and performances are the talk of the town. Also of interest is the wonderful theater building of 1850 vintage, bedizened with majestic chandeliers and stained glass.
Casa de la Trova Patricio BallagasLIVE MUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-29-13-57; Cisneros No 171, btwn Martí & Cristo; CUC$3; h7pm-1am)
An ornate entrance hall gives way to an atmospheric patio where old crooners sing and young couples chachachá. One of Cuba's best trova (traditional poetic singing) houses, where regular tourist traffic doesn't detract from the old-world authenticity. Tuesday's a good night for traditional music. Cover includes one drink.
Centro Cultural CaribeCABARET
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-29-81-12; cnr Narciso Montreal (Calle 1) & Freyre; tickets CUC$3-6; h10pm-2am, to 4am Fri & Sat)
Some say it's the best cabaret outside Havana and, at this price, who's arguing? Book your seat (from the box office on the same day) and pull up a pew for an eyeful of feathers and a few frocks. There's a trousers-and-shirt dress code.
Estadio Cándido GonzálezSPECTATOR SPORT
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-29-31-40; Av Tarafa; h7:15pm games Oct-Apr)
Baseball games are held at this stadium alongside Casino Campestre. Team Camagüey, known as the Alfareros (the Ceramicists), have long been underdogs but recent seasons have seen them winning more games.
Sala Teatro José Luis TasendeTHEATER
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-29-21-64; Ramón Guerrero No 51; hshows 8:30pm Sat & Sun)
For serious live theater, head to this venue, which has quality Spanish-language performances.
Cine CasablancaCINEMA
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-29-22-44; Av Agramonte No 428)
A 1940s-era cinema reopened as a multiplex.
Cine el CircuitoCINEMA
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-25-65-43; Av Agramonte)
Former cinema reincarnated in 2014 as a fount of video-art, with a 3D room. The on-site Galería Pixel shows revolving documentary films.
7Shopping
Calle Maceo is Camagüey's top shopping street, with a number of souvenir shops, bookstores and department stores on an attractive pedestrian boulevard.
Fondo Cubano Bienes CulturalesARTS & CRAFTS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Av de la Libertad No 112; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Sells all kinds of artifacts in a pleasantly nontouristy setting, just north of the train station.
ARTex SouvenirGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; República No 381; h9am-5pm)
Che T-shirts, mini-tinajones, Che key rings, CDs, Che mugs. Get the picture?
8Information
Dangers & Annoyances
Camagüey's hardworking jinteros (touts) are experts at making a buck off tourists. Many travelers have been offered help finding their casa particular, only to later realize they have been led to a different house (usually with less-desirable facilities). Or someone outside your reserved house will tell you it's under renovation or closed. Ring the bell to be sure.
Try to book accommodation in advance, ideally arranging a pickup from the station or airport. Particularly at these places, be wary of strangers approaching and offering 'services' (eg to be your guide). Bici-taxis at the bus station can be particularly predatory.
Internet Access
There's public wi-fi (with scratchcard-code access) at Parque Ignacio Agramonte and between Plaza los Trabajadores and Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad.
Etecsa TelepuntoINTERNET
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-25-15-59; República, btwn San Martín & José Ramón Silva; internet per hr CUC$1.50; h8:30am-7pm)
Camagüey is light on wi-fi, so grab one of the dozen terminals here. Visitors can buy a scratch card for wi-fi.
Medical Services
Policlínico Integral Rodolfo Ramirez EsquivalMEDICAL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-28-14-81; cnr Ignacio Sánchez & Joaquín de Agüero)
North of the level crossing from the Hotel Plaza; it will treat foreigners in an emergency.
Policlínico José MartíHOSPITAL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-29-78-10; Luaces No 1; h24hr)
A centrally located hospital.
Money
Banco de Crédito y ComercioBANK
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-29-25-31; cnr Av Agramonte & Cisneros; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri)
Has an ATM.
Banco Financiero InternacionalBANK
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-29-48-46; Independencia, btwn Hermanos Agüero & Martí; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri)
With an ATM.
CadecaEXCHANGE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-29-52-20; República No 84, btwn Oscar Primelles & El Solitario; h8:30am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm Sun)
Money changing.
Post
Post OfficePOST
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-29-39-58; Av Agramonte No 461, btwn Independencia & Cisneros; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Tourist Information
InfoturINFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-25-67-94; www.facebook.com/camaguey.travel; Ignacio Agramonte; h8:30am-5:30pm)
Very helpful information office hidden in a gallery near Casablanca cinema.
Travel Agencies
CubanacánTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-28-78-79; Maceo No 67, Gran Hotel)
The best place for information in the city center.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Air connections to the United States continue to grow. Air Transat (www.airtransat.com) and Sunwing (www.sunwing.ca) fly in the all-inclusive crowd from Toronto, who are hastily bussed off to Playa Santa Lucía.
Bus & Truck
The Estacion Ferro Omnibus (regional bus station; GOOGLE MAP ) near the train station, has trucks to regional destinations (CUC$2) including Playa Santa Lucía, paid in Cuban pesos. Arrive at 5am to be ensured a spot for beach-bound trucks.
Long-distance Víazul (
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-27-03-96; www.viazul.com; Carretera Central Este, at Calle Peru) buses depart from the Estacion Interprovincial (Bus Station;
GOOGLE MAP
; Carretera Central), 3km southeast of the center. There's also one daily departure to Playa Santa Lucía at 2:45pm (CUC$8, 1¾ hours).
Passenger trucks (charging tourists around CUC$1) to Las Tunas, Ciego de Ávila and nearby towns also leave from this station. Arriving before 9am will greatly increase your chances of having a spot.
Víazul Bus Departures from Camagüey
| Destination | Cost (CUC$) | Duration (hr) | Daily Departures |
|---|---|---|---|
| Havana | 33 | 9 | 12:35am, 6:30am, 11:05am, 2:25pm, 11:45pm |
| Holguín | 11 | 3 | 12:30am, 4:30am, 6:25am, 1:20pm, 6:40pm |
| Santiago de Cuba | 18 | 6 | 12:30am, 6:25am, 9:30am, 1:20pm, 4pm |
| Trinidad | 15 | 4½ | 2:45am |
| Varadero | 24 | 8¼ | 3:10am |
Car
A taxi to Playa Santa Lucía should cost around CUC$60 to CUC$70 one way: bargain hard.
Train
The train station (
GOOGLE MAP
; %tickets 32-28-47-66; cnr Avellaneda & Av Carlos J Finlay; to Santiago/Havana CUC$11/19) is more conveniently located than the bus station – though its service isn't as convenient. Every fourth day the Tren Francés leaves for Santiago at around 3:19am and for Havana, stopping in Santa Clara, at around 1:47am.
Schedules change frequently: check at the station a couple of days before you intend to travel. Slower coche motor (cross-island) trains also serve the Havana–Santiago route, stopping at places such as Matanzas and Ciego de Ávila.
Going east there are daily services to Las Tunas, Manzanillo and Bayamo. Heading north there are (theoretically) four daily trains to Nuevitas and four to Morón.
8Getting Around
Bici-Taxis
Bicycle taxis are found around most of the city's squares, with the main contingent in Plaza de los Trabajadores. They should cost five pesos, but drivers will probably ask for payment in convertibles.
Car
Car-rental prices start around CUC$70 a day plus gas, depending on the make of car and hire duration. Try Cubacar (
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-29-74-72; www.transturcarrental.com; Casino Campestre).
Guarded parking (CUC$2 for 24 hours) is available for those brave enough to attempt Camagüey's maze in a car. Ask at your hotel or casa particular for details.
There are two Servi-Cupet gas stations (
GOOGLE MAP
; Carretera Central; h24hr) near Av de la Libertad. Driving in Camagüey's narrow one-way streets is a sport akin to base-jumping. Experts only!
Horse Carts
Horse carts shuttle along a fixed route (CUC$1) between the regional bus station and the train station. You may have to change carts at Casino Campestre, near the river.
WORTH A TRIP
GUáIMARO: THE CITY OF EMANCIPATION
Guáimaro would be just another nameless Cuban town if it wasn't for the famous Guáimaro Assembly of April 1869, which approved the first Cuban constitution and called for the emancipation of slaves. The assembly elected Carlos Manuel de Céspedes as president.
If you are a history buff, stop here. The events of 1869 are commemorated by a large monument erected in 1940 in Parque Constitución (
GOOGLE MAP
; Guáimaro). Around the base of the monument are bronze plaques with likenesses of José Martí, Máximo Gómez, Carlos Manuel de Céspedes, Ignacio Agramonte, Calixto García and Antonio Maceo, the stars of Cuban independence. The park also contains the mausoleum of Cuba's first – and possibly greatest – heroine, Ana Betancourt (1832–1901) from Camagüey, who fought for women's emancipation alongside the abolition of slavery during the First War of Independence. Also be sure to stop at the Museo Histórico (Constitución 85 btwn Libertad & Máximo Gómez, Guáimaro; admission CUC$1; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri), with a couple of rooms given over to art and history.
Guáimaro is on the Carretera Central between Camagüey and Las Tunas. A number of Víazul (www.viazul.com) buses pass through daily. Speak to the driver if you want to get off.
Florida
Pop 73,600
A million metaphoric miles from Miami, the hard-working sugar-mill town of Florida, 46km northwest of Camagüey on the Ciego de Ávila road, is a viable overnighter if you're driving around central Cuba and are too tired to negotiate the labyrinthine streets of Camagüey after dark (a bad idea, whatever your physical or mental state). There's a working rodeo and an Etecsa telephone office.
The one hotel here is worthwhile in a pinch: Hotel Florida (
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-51-46-70; Carretera Central, Km 534; s/d CUC$23/36; pas) is a two-story hotel, 2km west of the center of town that has 74 adequate rooms, some partially renovated. The entry drive is potholed, which sort of sets the tone for the place, but the staff are friendly and the price comparable to a casa particular. Inside there's a thatched restaurant serving criolla-style food.
If not here, the many options of Camagüey are less than an hour away.
8Getting There & Away
Florida is 46km from Camagüey. If you are stopping here, chances are that you have your own rental car. But you can find passenger trucks going between Florida and Camagüey.
For drivers there's a Servi-Cupet gas station in the center of town on Carretera Central.
Sierra del Chorrillo
This protected area 36km southeast of Camagüey contains three low hill ranges: the Sierra del Chorrillo, the Sierra del Najasa and the Guaicanámar (highest point: 324m). Visitors access the area through Hacienda la Belén, a ranch turned nature reserve with a zoo, petrified forest and excellent bird-=watching.
1Sights
Hacienda la BelénRANCH
( GOOGLE MAP ; entry CUC$6; Sendero las Aves hike CUC$7)
Nestled in grassy uplands, this handsome country ranch was built by a Peruvian architect during WWII. It is now run as a nature reserve by Ecotur. It's one of the best places in Cuba to view rare bird species such as the Cuban parakeet, the giant kingbird and the Antillean palm swift. Another curiosity is a three-million-year-old petrified forest spread over 1 hectare. There's also nonindigenous exotic animals such as zebras, deer, bulls and horses.
Visitors can hike Sendero las Aves for a fee. To find the petrified forest, drive several kilometers past the hacienda entrance to the road junction and bear right to reach a dead end at a factory. There's also a far-larger fossilized tree nearby.
4Sleeping
Motel la BelénMOTEL$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %reservations 32-24-49-57; s/d CUC$13/20, full board CUC$29/40; as)
Simple and countrified in that spartan, semiabandoned Cuban way, Motel la Belén reclines within the hacienda grounds and is equipped with a swimming pool, restaurant, TV room and clean, air-conditioned rooms. Glorious landscapes are within stone-chucking distance. Reserve via Ecotur in Camagüey.
8Getting There & Away
Tours from Camagüey visit the area. Otherwise, you can come by rental car. Drive 24km east of Camagüey on Carretera Central, then 30km southeast following signs to Najasa. If approaching from Las Tunas, another potholed road to Najasa branches south off the Carretera Central in Sibanicú. The hacienda is 8km beyond Najasa along a rutted road. Alternatively, negotiate a rate with a taxi in Camagüey.
Cayo Sabinal
Though slated for development, Cayo Sabinal, 22km to the north of Nuevitas, is still virgin territory in part. The 30km-long coral key with marshes is favored by flamingos and iguanas. The land cover is mainly flat and characterized by marshland and lagoons. The fauna consists of tree rats, wild boar and a large variety of butterflies. It's astoundingly beautiful.
1Sights
Fuerte San HilarioFORT
( GOOGLE MAP )
Cayo Sabinal has quite some history for a wilderness area. Following repeated pirate attacks in the 17th and 18th centuries, the Spanish built a fort here (1831) to keep marauding corsairs at bay. The fort later became a prison and, in 1875, witnessed the only Carlist uprising (a counter-revolutionary movement in Spain that opposed the reigning monarchy) in Cuba – ever.
Faro ColónLIGHTHOUSE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Punta Maternillo)
Erected in 1848, Faro Colón is one of the oldest lighthouses still operating on the Cuban archipelago. As a result of various naval battles fought in the area during the colonial era, a couple of Spanish shipwrecks – Nuestra Señora de Alta Gracia and the Pizarro – rest in shallow waters nearby, providing great fodder for divers.
2Activities
Playa BonitaBEACH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; day tour adult/child CUC$59/36)
Of Cayo Sabinal's 30km of beaches, this one has top billing. It's frequented by daily catamaran excursions from Playa Santa Lucía offering lunch at a rustic ranchón (ranch).
8Getting There & Away
There is a dirt road to the cay, but a security checkpoint is currently curtailing access while the island is under construction. The 2km causeway linking the key to the mainland was the first of its kind constructed in Cuba and the most environmentally destructive.
Access Cayo Sabinal via a catamaran tour from Playa Santa Lucía that visits Playa Bonita. Trips run most days and include transfers and lunch. Book through the Playa Santa Lucía hotels.
Currently, the only access to the island is via a catamaran tour from Playa Santa Lucía.
CAYOS & CAUSEWAYS
In any other country, the necklace of beach-embellished cayos (keys) that lies between Cayo Coco and Playa Santa Lucía would have been requisitioned by the biggest, richest hotel chains. But in Cuba, due to a mix of economic austerity and nitpicking government bureaucracy, they are largely untouched, though hotels are in the works for several cays.
In-the-know fishers ply the waters out as far as Cayo Cruz. The flats, lagoons and estuaries off Camagüey's north coast are fly-fishing heaven (bonefish, permit and tarpon are concentrated in a designated fishing area of just under 350 sq km that's invariably deserted). The fishing season runs from November to August and no commercial fishing is allowed.
Rough causeways and roads were built across Camagüey's cayos in the late 1980s in preparation for Cuba's next big tourist project – a plan that, due to the Special Period economic meltdown, never got off the ground. Instead, the islands and their unblemished waters have remained the preserve of in-the-know fisherfolk, resolute birdwatchers and those in search of splendid solitude. Running west to east are Cayo Paredón Grande, home to the checkered lighthouse Faro Diego Velázquez, a sultry beach and bevies of day-trippers from Cayo Coco; Cayo Romano, Cuba's third-largest island and a haven for flamingos, mangroves and blood-thirsty mosquitoes; Cayo Guajaba, an untouched roadless wilderness; and Cayo Sabinal, which has a rough road and a trio of unblemished beaches, plus an old Spanish fort and lighthouse. Tucked away to the north is 800m-long Cayo Confites, where a 21-year-old Fidel Castro hid out in 1947 in preparation for an abortive plot to overthrow the dictatorial regime of Rafael Trujillo in the Dominican Republic (Fidel jumped ship in the Bay of Nipe and swam 15km to shore carrying his weapon).
You'll need a sturdy car or a bike to penetrate these potholed northern wildernesses. Entry points to Cayo Romano are from Cayo Coco, or Brasil in northwestern Camagüey Province. Cayo Cruz is accessed via a causeway from Cayo Romano. Cayo Sabinal is linked to the mainland by a small causeway northwest of Nuevitas. There are police checkpoints, so you'll need your passport.
Playa Santa Lucía
With 20 km of golden sand, this beach, 112km northeast of Camagüey, competes with Varadero as Cuba's longest. Travelers generally come here to dive the north coast's best and most accessible coral reef, lying just a few kilometers offshore. Another highlight is the beach itself – a tropical idyll, most of it still deserted – though it collects seaweed even in the radius of the hotels. This isolated resort strip has seen better days, with many hotels sporting a cheap holiday-camp feel.
The swimming, snorkeling and diving are exceptional, however, and the four all-inclusive resorts are well-priced for snowbirds. In peak season, the clientele is primarily Canadian. The flat surroundings feature flamingos, scrubby bushes and the odd grazing cow. Backed by wetlands, mosquitoes can be a huge annoyance, particularly at dusk. Prepare accordingly.
Playa Santa Lucía
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
3Entertainment
2Activities
Playa Santa Lucía is a diving destination extraordinaire and the world's second-longest coral reef after Australia's Great Barrier Reef.
The 35 scuba sites take in six Poseidon ridges, the Cueva Honda dive site, shipwrecks, and the abundant marine life, including several types of rays at the entrance to the Bahía de Nuevitas. A much-promoted highlight is the hand-feeding of 3m-long bull sharks from June to January.
The hotels can organize other water activities, including kayaking, deep-sea fishing and kitesurfing (the last from November to April).
oCatamaran to Playa BonitaBOATING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child CUC$59/36)
Fulfill your deserted-island fantasy traveling on a 14-passenger catamaran to remote Playa Bonita on Cayo Sabinal. Included is a 45-minute snorkel session and lunch with an open bar. It departs Playa Santa Lucía at 9:30am and returns at 4:20pm. Bring plenty of sunscreen.
Book the trip through Marlin, which has aquatic activity centers in every hotel.
Centro Internacional de Buceo Shark's FriendsDIVING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-36-51-82; www.nauticamarlin.com; Av Tararaco; shark feeds CUC$69, dives from CUC$30)
Shark's Friends is a professional outfit with dive masters speaking English, Italian and German. The center, on the beach between Brisas Santa Lucía and Gran Club Santa Lucía, offers dives, open-water certification and shark feeds.
November through January is the best time for the shark feeding or dive boats go out every two hours between 9am and 3pm daily (though the last dive is contingent on demand). The open-water course costs CUC$315; a resort course is CUC$74. It also has snorkeling excursions.
4Sleeping
The small hotel strip begins 6km northwest of the roundabout at the entrance to Santa Lucía. The four big ones are Cubanacán resorts whose star ratings and quality decrease as you head northwest. Due to Playa Santa Lucía's size and isolation, it's good to book a room beforehand.
Casas particulares may be found in the village located southeast of the hotels where beach access is inferior.
Islazul TararacoHOTEL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-33-63-10; s/d CUC$33/36; a)
Bargain hunters can thank Changó for the Tararaco, the strip's oldest hotel (it actually predates the revolution). Every room has a TV and a little patio, and is within stone-chucking distance of the beach. Víazul buses to Camagüey arrive and depart from the driveway.
Brisas Santa LucíaRESORT$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-33-63-17; s/d/tr all-inclusive CUC$143/190/193; paiWs)
With 412 rooms in several three-story buildings, Brisas covers a monstrous 11 hectares. It boasts the strip's top rating – a hugely flattering four stars. That comes with an overly jaunty holiday camp atmosphere of mic-happy pool entertainers and a show where everything is repeated in three languages: not for everyone. There's special kids programming.
Club Brava CaracolRESORT$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-33-63-02; s/d all-inclusive CUC$89/139; paiWs)
Sleek remodeled rooms with comfortable beds and Caribbean colors give style points to this resort. The kids program makes it the beach's family favorite. Choose your room wisely: shows and taped music on the central stage could keep you up unwillingly and not all in-room safes work. Ocean-view rooms are more expensive.
Gran Club Santa LucíaRESORT$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %32-33-61-09; s/d all-inclusive CUC$86/133; paiWs)
Gran Club is one of the better strip options, with 249 colorfully painted rooms in well-maintained two-story blocks. There's also prettily landscaped grounds and poolside action. Discoteca la Jungla is the not-overly-inspiring nightclub that offers an evening music/comedy show (which tries way too hard to be funny).
5Eating
Aside from the hotel buffets, your choices are limited. There's an El Rápido on the roundabout at the western end of the hotel strip that serves cheap (for a reason) fast food.
Restaurante Luna MarSEAFOOD$$
(
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; Playa Santa Lucía; mains CUC$7-20; hnoon-9pm)
This place, flush up against the beach and wedged between Gran Club Santa Lucía and Club Amigo Caracol, offers a seafood menu in an easy-to-reach setting.
3Entertainment
Resort entertainment dominates the nightlife here. If you aren't interested definitely bring earplugs.
Mar Verde Centro CulturalCULTURAL CENTER
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; %32-33-62-05; Mar Verde Centro Commercial; CUC$1; h10pm-3am)
The Mar Verde Centro Cultural has a pleasant patio bar and a cabaret with live music nightly.
8Information
Medical Services
Clínica Internacional de Santa LucíaMEDICAL
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GOOGLE MAP
; %32-33-63-60; Ignacio Residencial No 14)
A well-equipped Cubanacán clinic for emergencies and medical issues. There’s also a pharmacy here.
Money
Tourist Information
For tour agencies, Cubanacán, which owns four of the five hotels here, is well represented with a desk in each hotel. There's a good Cubatur office just outside Gran Club Santa Lucía.
8Getting There & Away
AVíazul (www.viazul.com) travels to Camagüey daily at 11am (CUC$9, 1¾ hours) from the entrance of Hotel Tararaco.
You can also taxi between Camagüey and Playa Santa Lucía (approximately CUC$70 one way).
The Servi-Cupet gas station is at the southeastern end of the strip, near the access road from Camagüey. Another large Servi-Cupet station, with a snack bar, is just south of Brisas Santa Lucía.
Rent cars or mopeds via Cubacar, with desks in all the hotels.
Playa los Cocos
This comma of beach at the end of 20km-long Playa Santa Lucía, 7km from the hotels at the mouth of the Bahía de Nuevitas, is a stunner, with yellow-white sand and iridescent jade water. Sometimes flocks of pink flamingos are visible in Laguna el Real, behind this beach. The small Cuban settlement here is known as La Boca. This is a fine swimming spot, with views of the Faro Colón (lighthouse) on Cayo Sabinal, but beware of tidal currents further out. Avoid swimming on the ocean-facing beaches where there are sea urchins.
4Sleeping & Eating
oThe Point of PilotsCASA PARTICULAR$
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; %mobile 53-41-46-60, mobile 55-44-88-21; La Boca No 16; r CUC$25)
A stone's throw from the water, this freshly painted, marine-blue house on a sandy alley has the world's nicest hosts. There's three ship-shape rooms, one very small. Owners will also provide seafood meals if you arrange ahead.
Casa BettyCASA PARTICULAR$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; La Boca No 38; r CUC$25)
Basic but well-located, this seafront cottage has just two rooms. The savory smells wafting from the tiny kitchen reveal its secondary purpose – as a paladar (privately owned restaurant). You can get seafood, grilled or deep-fried (mains CUC$5 to CUC$10), at all hours here, not such a good sign for lodgers but great for hungry beachgoers.
There's dining at two restaurants here. Meals are also available at casas particulares.
oEl BucaneroSEAFOOD$$
(
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; %32-36-52-26; Playa los Cocos; meals CUC$8-12; h10am-10pm)
With a prime beach setting, this thatched seafood hut is in its own class. Call it simple and fresh. The house special of lobster and prawns is enhanced immeasurably by the setting. There's also deck chairs for rent, and with fresh coconut juice and cold beer at the ready, it's not a bad spot to hunker down.
8Getting There & Away
A horse and carriage from the Santa Lucía hotels to Playa los Cocos is CUC$20 round-trip plus the wait.
You can also walk it, jog it or bike it (free gearless-but-adequate bikes are available at all the resorts). It's 12km by road and 8km by the coast (impassable to cars, with a five-minute sandy section that horse carts and cyclists must walk).