Las Tunas Province
Las Tunas Province
%31 / Pop 526,000
Why Go?
Most travelers say hello and goodbye to Las Tunas Province in the time that it takes to drive across it on the Carretera Central – one hour on a good day. But, hang on a second! With laid-back, leather-skinned cowboys and poetic country singers, the province is known for daredevil rodeos and Saturday-night street parties. Here barnstorming entertainment is served up at the drop of a sombrero.
Although historically associated with the Oriente, Las Tunas Province shares many attributes with Camagüey in the west. The flat grassy fields of the interior are punctuated with sugar mills and cattle ranches, while the eco-beaches on the north coast remain wild and lightly touristed by Varadero standards.
In this low-key land of the understated and underrated, accidental visitors can enjoy the small-town charms of the provincial capital, or head north to beaches off the old mill town Puerto Padre where serenity rules.
When to Go
AAvoid the wettest months of June and October, when more than 160mm of average precipitation inundates the streets.
ADuring the hottest months of July and August, locals take to the beaches for vacations; visitors usually prefer cooler months.
ALas Tunas has many festivals for a small city; the best is the Cuban country-music festival Jornada Cucalambeana in June.
ALa Festival Internacional de Magia Anfora, held in the provincial capital in November, draws pro magicians from around the world to demonstrate their craft.
AThe National Sculpture Exhibition, an event befitting the so-called ‘City of Sculptures,’ happens in February.
Best Places to Sleep
Las Tunas Province Highlights
1 Parque 26 de Julio Checking out the Cuban version of the lasso-wielding cowboy in this Las Tunas fairground hosting the city's celebrated rodeo twice a year.
2 Playa la Herradura Enjoying this unkempt village beach while nary a resort spoils its tranquil sands.
3 Puerto Padre Lingering awhile in this friendly, unpretentious and out-on-a-limb seaside town.
4 Jornada Cucalambeana Rolling into El Cornito in June to experience some country crooning at the music festival.
5 Las Tunas Enjoying some slick private enterprise in the capital's Italian restaurants.
6 Punta Covarrubias Diving in a dozen sites with largely undiscovered reefs off this pristine beach.
Las Tunas
Pop 163,500
La Victória de Las Tunas (as it's officially known) is a sleepy agricultural town anointed provincial capital. It has long held a sleazy reputation for being the Oriente's capital of sex tourism. But thanks to good private lodgings, welcoming locals and a handy location on Cuba's arterial Carretera Central, handfuls of road-weary travelers drop by and are pleasantly surprised. Missing here are the touts that exasperate tourists in other destinations. It's a window into real provincial life.
Referred to as the 'city of sculptures,' Las Tunas is certainly no Florence. But what it lacks in grandiosity it makes up for in small-town quirks. You can see an authentic country rodeo here, admire a statue of a two-headed Taíno chief, go wild at one of the city's riotous Saturday-night street parties or wax lyrical at the weird and witty Jornada Cucalambeana, Cuba's leading country-music festival.
Las Tunas
1Sights
3Entertainment
1Sights
Memorial a los Mártires de BarbadosMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Lucas Ortíz No 344; 
h10am-6pm Mon-Sat)
F
Las Tunas' most evocative sight is in the former home of Carlos Leyva González, an Olympic fencer killed in the nation's worst terrorist atrocity: the bombing of a Cubana airliner in 1976. Individual photos of victims of the attack line the museum walls, providing poignant reminders of the fated airplane.
On October 6, 1976, Cubana de Aviación Flight 455, on its way back to Havana from Guyana, took off after a stopover in Barbados' Seawell airport. Nine minutes after clearing the runway, two bombs went off in the cabin's rear toilet causing the plane to crash into the Atlantic Ocean. All 73 people on board – 57 of whom were Cuban – were killed. The toll included the entire Cuban fencing team fresh from a clean sweep of gold medals at the Central American Championships. At the time, the tragedy of Flight 455 was the worst ever terrorist attack in the western hemisphere.
Memorial Vicente GarcíaMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-34-51-64; Vicente García No 7; CUC$1; h9am-5pm Tue-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun)
A colonial-era structure near the eponymous park that commemorates Las Tunas' great War of Independence hero who captured the town from the Spanish in 1876, and torched it 21 years later when the colonizers sought to reclaim it. The building was once García's house, but only a small exposed section of floor tiles remains from the original structure. The museum's four rooms are best navigated with a guide who'll fill in the many historical gaps.
Museo Provincial General Vicente GarcíaMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-34-51-64; cnr Francisco Varona & Ángel de la Guardia; CUC$1; h8am-4:30pm Tue-Sun)
Housed in the royal-blue town hall with a clock mounted on the front facade, the provincial museum documents local tunero history. A member of staff will happily lead you through the exhibits.
El CornitoFOREST
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Carretera Central Km 8; h9am-5pm)
The bamboo woods around Motel el Cornito, about 6km outside town, offer a welcome, shady diversion from the scorching city bustle. You'll find ranchón-style restaurants (favoring the usual booming reggaeton music), the site of the old farmhouse of great Las Tunas poet Juan Cristóbal Nápoles Fajardo (aka El Cucalambé) and a reservoir.
Back toward the main road, there's a zoo, a fun park and a motocross circuit. A taxi here costs CUC$5 to CUC$7 return.
SCULPTURE VULTURES
It might not be Florence, but Las Tunas has an eclectic, sometimes eccentric collection of urban sculptures, more than 150 of them in fact, dating back to a pioneering sculpture expo that was held in the city in 1974. For a small but precocious precis of the town’s new young talent, check out the Galería Taller Escultura Rita Longa, while true sculpture vultures should visit in February (even-numbered years) for the Bienal de Escultura Rita Longa – a celebration of all things sculpted.
Las Tunas’ most important and emblematic statue is Rita Longa's La Fuente de Las Antilles ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ). First unveiled in 1977, it was elemental in reviving Cuba’s sculpturing traditions and making Las Tunas its HQ. The sculpture comprises a huge fountain filled with elaborate interwoven figures symbolizing the emergence of the Greater Antilles' indigenous peoples from the Caribbean Sea. Cuba is represented by an India dormida (sleeping Taíno woman). The work reawakened interest in indigenous-themed art in Cuba and has spawned other complex sculptures, such as Mestizaje ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), a multifaced representation of Cuba’s mixed races in the Parque de la India near the bus station.
In the central hub of Plaza Martí is another Longa work, an inventive bronze statue ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) of the 'apostle of Cuban independence,' José Martí, which doubles as a solar clock. It was opened in 1995 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of Martí's death.
Elsewhere in town you'll find sculptures with revolutionary themes. The 8m-high abstract Monumento al Trabajo ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Carretera Central & Martí) by José Peláez pays cubist homage to Cuban workers, while the pencil-like Monumento a Alfabetización ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Lucas Ortíz) marks the 1961 act passed in Las Tunas to stamp out illiteracy.
Further afield, the Janus-inspired Cacique Maniabo y Jibacoa ( GOOGLE MAP ) is a two-headed Taíno chief looking in opposite directions, which dominates the surroundings at the rustic Motel el Cornito 6km west of town. Also at El Cornito is the Columna Taina, a kind of native totem pole, along with Las Tunas’ newest sculpture, the Cornito al Toro (2013), a legendary bull made out of metal and cement that guards the approach road to the complex looking down from a giant pedestal.
zFestivals & Events
Bienal de Escultura Rita LongaSCULPTURE
(hFeb)
Held in February in even-numbered years in this so-called ‘City of Sculptures.'
Jornada CucalambeanaMUSIC
(hJun)
Cuba’s biggest celebration of country music, where local lyricists impress each other with their 10-line décima verses. It happens in June, just outside Las Tunas, by Motel el Cornito.
4Sleeping
oHostal MelinaCASA PARTICULAR$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-34-35-03; Av Frank País 55; r CUC$25; 
p
a)
With a warm welcome, this 1970s home sparkles with care. Gape at the gold lamé bed covers. Two guest rooms behind the house offer ample privacy and space, with flat-screen TVs and refrigerators. There's also a private covered patio and roof deck, and breakfasts are huge.
oMayra Busto MéndezCASA PARTICULAR$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-34-42-05, mobile 52-71-30-84; mayra.busto@nauta.cu; Hirán Durañona No 16, btwn Frank País & Lucas Ortíz; r CUC$25; pa)
A very helpful and secure casa particular with personalized attention. The sheen coming off the furnishings in this immaculate bungalow might dazzle you. There are two guest rooms, one enormous, and renovations underway to update the bathrooms. To find it, let the taxi know that it's a dead-end street (calle sin salida).
Casa Karen & RogerCASA PARTICULAR$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-34-28-73; kyl@itu.sld.cu; Lico Cruz No 93; r CUC$25; a)
With sleek, modern design that's a rare find in Cuba, this second-story home with two spacious rooms is a welcome addition. There's original art on the walls, bold colors and an excellent roof terrace. The family has young children and a small dog.
Hotel CadillacHOTEL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-37-27-91; cnr Ángel de la Guardia & Francisco Vega; s/d incl breakfast CUC$72/86; a)
A Las Tunas hotel that doesn't give you flashbacks to the Khrushchev and Brezhnev years. Opened in 2009, this rehabilitated, centrally located 1940s building features eight rooms, including a lovely corner suite, with safe and minibar. There are flat-screen TVs, up-to-the-minute bathrooms and a dash of old-fashioned prerevolutionary class. Out front is the lively Cadillac Snack Bar.
5Eating
Los HermanosITALIAN$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %mobile 54-86-45-14; Varona No 284; mains CUC$2-6)
Cheap and good, this is the locals' choice for Italian fare such as garlicky pesto. Skip the underwhelming dessert.
CachéINTERNATIONAL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-99-55-57; Francisco Varona, btwn Nicolás Heredia & Joaquin Agüera; sandwiches & burgers CUC$2-5; hnoon-2am)
Proof that things are changing in Cuba, this swanky cocktail bar/cafe/restaurant attempts to bring the taste of Miami to Las Tunas – of all places! The dimly lit, air-conditioned interior is dressed to impress with leather seats, dexterous cocktail waiters and a menu heavy with deluxe burgers and club sandwiches. Locals favor the tasty fried croquetas.
La PatronaCUBAN$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-34-05-11; Custodio Orive No 94; meals CUC$3-4; h11am-11pm)
A largely local place with highly reasonable prices and equally reasonable food. The mains are primarily comida criollla (Creole food), but it also does eggs and pasta for cheap.
Restaurante la BodeguitaCARIBBEAN$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-37-15-36; Francisco Varona No 293; meals CUC$5; hnoon-11pm)
A Palmares state-run joint, meaning that it's a better bet than the usual peso parlors. You'll get checkered tablecloths, a limited wine list and what the Cuban government calls 'international cuisine' – read spaghetti and pizza. Try the chicken breast with mushroom sauce.
oLa NegraCUBAN$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-39-81-48, mobile 52-71-30-72; www.restaurantelanegra.com; Israel Santos 41; mains CUC$5-12; h11am-11pm)
Among provincial Cuba's best eats, this private home with a leafy courtyard serves up stunning Cuban classics. Crisp plantain shavings, fragrant pork stir-fry (fajita de cerdo) and shrimp criollo, served with a creamy tomato sauce, do not disappoint. Chef Vladimir works wonders with subtle sauces, olive oil and fresh ingredients. It's a short taxi ride from downtown.
oRistorante La RomanaITALIAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-34-77-55; Francisco Varona No 331; meals CUC$6-9; h12:45-11pm)
Drop by this new Roman abode on the main boulevard where the olive oil's extra virgin, the pasta's homemade and the coffee's Lavazza. The food – including the starter bruschettas – is molta ottima, according to Las Tunas' Italian visitors. There's also a cheaper menu with Cuban specialties. Great atmosphere.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Cadillac Snack BarCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Ángel de la Guardia & Francisco Vega; h9am-11pm)
This offshoot of the Hotel Cadillac has tables on a terrace overlooking the Plaza Martí action and serves decent cappuccinos.
Casa del Vino Don JuanBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Francisco Varona & Joaquín Agüera; h9am-midnight)
Wine-tasting in Las Tunas probably sounds about as credible as food rationing in Beverley Hills, yet here it is; only 7 pesos for a shot of the local poison, a sickly sweet red called Puerto Príncipe. Go just to say you've been there.
3Entertainment
oParque 26 de JulioFAIRGROUND
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Av Vicente García; h9am-6pm Sat & Sun)F
Located in Parque 26 de Julio where Vicente García bends into Av 1 de Mayo. It kicks off every weekend with a market, music, food stalls and kids' activities.
Teatro TunasTHEATER
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-34-50-10; cnr Francisco Varona & Joaquín Agüera)
This recently revitalized theater shows quality movies and some of Cuba's best touring entertainment including flamenco, ballet and plays.
Casa de la CulturaCULTURAL CENTER
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-34-35-00; Vicente García No 8)
The best place for the traditional stuff with concerts, poetry and dance. The action spills out into the street on weekend nights.
Cabaret el TaínoTHEATER
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-34-38-23; cnr Vicente García & A Cabrera; per couple CUC$1; h9pm-2am Tue-Sun)
This large thatched venue at the west entrance to town has the standard feathers, salsa and pasties show on Saturdays and Sundays.
Estadio Julio Antonio MellaSPECTATOR SPORT
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-34-84-03; Frank Pais)
October to April is baseball season. Las Tunas plays at this stadium near the train station. Los Magos (the Wizards) haven't produced much magic of late and usually compete with the likes of Ciego de Ávila for bottom place in the East League.
7Shopping
Galería Taller Escultura Rita LongaART
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-34-29-69; cnr Av 2 de Diciembre & Lucas Ortíz; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat)
The small gallery pulls together some fine local work for perusal or purchase.
Fondo Cubano de Bienes CulturalesARTS & CRAFTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-34-69-83; cnr Ángel de la Guardia & Francisco Varona; h9am-noon & 1:30-5pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-noon Sat)
This store sells fine artwork, ceramics and embroidered items opposite the main square.
8Information
Medical Services
Casas particulares can help visitors get home doctor visits.
Hospital Che Guevara (
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-34-50-12; cnr Avs CJ Finlay & 2 de Diciembre) A kilometer from the highway exit toward Holguín.
Money
ATMs are easy to find.
Banco Financiero Internacional (
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-34-62-02; cnr Vicente García & 24 de Febrero; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri)
Cadeca (
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-34-63-82; Colón No 141) Money changing.
Post
Post Office (
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-34-38-63; Vicente García No 6; h8am-8pm) In the center.
Tourist Information
Infotur (
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-37-27-17; infotur@tunas.infotur.tur.cu; Francisco Varona No 298; h8:15am-4:15pm Mon-Fri & alternate Sat) Provides good information on local attractions.
Travel Agencies
Ecotur (
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-34-20-73; Av 2 de Diciembre, Hotel Las Tunas; h9am-4:30pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) Books visits to Monte Cabaniguan (CUC$20), though you will also need a separate 4WD transfer.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
The main bus station (
GOOGLE MAP
; Francisco Varona) is 1km southeast of the main square. Víazul (
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-37-42-95; www.viazul.com) buses have daily departures; tickets are sold by the jefe de turno (shift manager). Get tickets one hour early or days before during high season.
Havana-bound buses stop at Camagüey (CUC$7, 2½ hours), Ciego de Ávila (CUC$13, 4¼ hours), Sancti Spíritus (CUC$17, 5½ to six hours), Santa Clara (CUC$22, seven hours) and Entronque de Jagüey (CUC$26, 9¼ hours). Service to Holguín (CUC$6, 70 minutes) leaves at 2:40am, 6:35am, 8:30am and 3:30pm.
Santiago buses stop at Bayamo (CUC$6, 1¼ hours). To get to Guantánamo or Baracoa, you have to connect through Santiago de Cuba.
Train
The train station (
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-34-81-46; Terry Alomá, btwn Lucas Ortíz & Ángel de la Guardia) is near Estadio Julio Antonio Mella on the northeast side of town.
8Getting Around
Taxis hang around outside the bus station, Hotel Las Tunas and the main square. Horse carts run along Frank País near the baseball stadium to the town center; they cost 10 pesos.
For car and scooter rentals try Cubacar (
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-34-68-99; cnr Angel de la Guardia & Maceo; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) at Hotel Las Tunas. An Oro Negro gas station (
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Francisco Varona & Lora) is a block west of the bus station. The Servi-Cupet gas station (
GOOGLE MAP
; Carretera Central; h24hr) is at the exit from Las Tunas toward Camagüey.
THE BALCONY OF THE ORIENTE
Thanks to the nature of its colonization and the vast array of outside influences that have washed up intermittently on its shores, Cuba exhibits distinct regional differences. The most marked are those between the west (Occidente) and east (Oriente), demarcated by a line that runs roughly through Las Tunas, a province popularly known as El Balcón del Oriente (the Balcony of the Oriente).
Prior to 1976, Las Tunas and the four provinces to the east (Guantánamo, Santiago de Cuba, Granma and Holguín) were encased in a single culturally distinct province known simply as ‘Oriente.’ Although the political barriers were removed in the 1976 provincial shake-up, regional identity remains strong, especially among the traditional ‘underdogs’ from the east.
Geographically closer to Haiti than Havana, Cuba’s Oriente has often looked east rather than west in its bid to cement an alternative Cuban identity, absorbing myriad influences from Jamaica, the Lesser Antilles and, in particular, French Haiti. It is this soul-searching, in part, which accounts for the region's rich ethnic diversity and long-standing penchant for rebellion.
It's no accident that all of Cuba's revolutionary movements have been ignited in the Oriente, inspired by such fiery easterners as Carlos Manuel de Céspedes (from Bayamo), Antonio Maceo (from Santiago) and Fidel Castro (from Birán near Holguín). The region has also been a standard-bearer for the lion's share of Cuba's hybrid musical genres, from son and changüí to nueva trova. Cuban hip-hop might have had its genesis in Alamar, a suburb of Havana, but most of its instigators were eastern migrants from Santiago de Cuba.
Today, Cuba's east–west rivals continue to trade humorous insults on all number of topics. Listen carefully and you’ll notice that people from the Oriente have a strong 'singsong' accent. They are also generally less well-off economically, resulting in the long-standing trend for easterners to migrate west for work. More subtle are the musical and religious nuances. The Oriente hides copious Afro-Haitian traditions left over from the era of slavery. These are most clearly manifested in Santiago’s folkloric dance troupes and its manic July carnival.
Puerto Padre
Pop 93,700
Languishing in a half-forgotten corner of Cuba's least spectacular province, it's hard to believe that Puerto Padre – or the 'city of mills' as it is locally known – was once the largest sugar port on the planet. But for die-hard travelers the wanton abandonment inspires a wistful sense of curiosity. Blessed with a Las Ramblas–style boulevard, a miniature Malecón, and a scrawny, forlorn statue of Don Quixote beneath a weathered windmill that has registered one too many hurricanes, the town is the sort of place where you stop to ask the way at lunchtime and end up, a couple of hours later, tucking into fresh lobster at a bayside restaurant.
1Sights
Fuerte de la LomaFORT
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-51-52-24; Av Libertad; CUC$1; h9am-4pm Tue-Sat)
This fort at the top of the sloping Av Libertad, also known as the Salcedo Castle, is testimony to Puerto Padre's former strategic importance. There's a small military museum with temperamental opening hours.
Museo Fernando García Grave de PeraltaMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-51-53-08; Yara 45, btwn Av Libertad & Maceo; CUC$1; h9am-4pm Tue-Sat)
Lashed regularly by hurricanes, the municipal museum – when it's not being renovated – contains the usual round of fallen revolutionaries, stuffed animals and antiques. Look out for the antique record players.
CCourses
Silverio Cuevas VargasDANCING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %mobile 53-26-66-39; silcuevas@nauta.cu; Martires de la Herradura No 109; per hour CUC$10)
Salsa, rumba and popular Cuban dances: years of rigid Teutonic form will limber up under Silverio's warm tutelage. Classes are usually one-on-one and can even be held in Las Tunas. His house is across from the taxi area.
4Sleeping & Eating
Roberto Lío Montes de OcaCASA PARTICULAR$
(Los Chinos;
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-51-57-22; Francisco V Aguilera No 2, btwn Jesús Menéndez & Conrrado Benítez; r CUC$25; a)
This bright coral facade shines amid the ubiquitous dilapidation and portends cozy digs inside. There's a sweets shop downstairs and two prettily decorated bedrooms in the second-story home of a young couple. Breakfast and dinner are available. Street signs don't exist. It's one block from Parque Martin and three blocks from the boardwalk.
El Bodegón de PoloCUBAN$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-51-23-57; Lenin No 54; meals CUC$2-5; h11am-11pm)
Keen-to-please local restaurant serving delicacies such as crab, octopus and swordfish on a breezy upstairs terrace. The best deal in town and friendly to boot.
La SiciliaITALIAN$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %mobile 54-40-91-66; Paco Cabrera No 47; mains CUC$5-10; h6:30pm-midnight Mon-Sat)
It's hard to beat the ambience of this restored seafront mansion. The owner Lili spent time in Italy and offers hearty fare such as baked fish, spicy chicken and lasagna with white sauce or rich tomato ragu. The restaurant is on the 2nd floor with glorious water views.
3Entertainment
Casa de la CulturaCULTURAL CENTER
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-51-54-63; Parque de la Independencia)
Nighttime activities are held at the municipal culture house.
1913 BallroomDANCE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-51-68-97; Jesus Menendez, btwn 24 de Febrero & Av Ameijeres; hhours vary)
Have a drink or bite to eat and work up a sweat dancing at this downtown venue.
8Getting There & Away
The 52km between Las Tunas and Puerto Padre are well paved. Puerto Padre is best accessed by truck ($10 moneda nacional), leaving from Las Tunas train station, or with your own wheels. A taxi from the provincial capital should cost approximately CUC$30.
Punta Covarrubias
Situated 49 rutted kilometers northwest of Puerto Padre, Punta Covarrubias has a spotless sandy beach. It's a haven for scuba diving off the beaten path.
Las Tunas Province’s only all-inclusive resort, Brisas Covarrubias (
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-51-55-30; s/d CUC$41/82; pa
i
s), with 122 comfortable rooms in cabin blocks, with one for disabled guests, is also one of the island’s most isolated. Scuba diving at the coral reef 1.5km offshore is the highlight. Packages of two dives per day start at CUC$45 at the Marina Covarrubias. There are 12 dive sites here.
Self-sufficient travelers can turn in to the beach at the mirador (lookout), 200m before the hotel, or procure a hotel day pass for CUC$25.
8Getting There & Away
Almost all guests arrive on all-inclusive tours and are bused in from Frank País Airport in Holguín, 115km to the southeast. It’s very secluded.
The road from Puerto Padre to Playa Covarrubias is what Cuban taxi drivers call mas o menos (more or less) due to regular hotel traffic. West to Manatí and Playa Santa Lucía is an African-style hole-fest. Drive slowly and carefully!
You may find a taxi in Las Tunas (one-way CUC$45, plus CUC$10 per hour to wait).
Playas la Herradura, la Llanita & las Bocas
This wild string of northern beaches hugs the Atlantic coast 55km from Holguín. Come to read, relax and lose yourself in the vivid colors of traditional Cuban life.
From Puerto Padre it's 30km to the rustic Playa la Herradura. Enjoy this delicious scoop of golden sand with no resort in sight. In this attractive small town everyone knows everyone.
Continue west 11km to Playa la Llanita. The road was abused by Hurricane Matthew; drive with care. There's a long, straight beach and the water is somewhat shallow. The sand here is softer and whiter than in La Herradura, but the beach lies on an unprotected bend and there's sometimes a vicious chop.
Just 1km beyond, Playa las Bocas marks the end of the road with a few houses, a convenience store and open-air bar. You can usually catch a local ferry to El Socucho (CUC$1) to continue to Puerto Padre.
4Sleeping & Eating
oVilla CarolinaCASA PARTICULAR$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %mobile 52-38-72-72; Casa No 99, La Herradura; r CUC$20-25; a)
On the way into town look for this yellow two-story home. The rooms are all upstairs along a long shaded terrace with rockers and sea views. There are three rooms, all impeccable, with refrigerators and TV. Breakfast is CUC$2.50 extra.
Casa ReinoldCASA PARTICULAR$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %52-38-04-68; entrada Playa La Llanita, La Llanita; r CUC$25; a)
Let's be clear. There is little else to do here than dig your feet into the white sand and watch the lapping surf. For some, that will be enough. This beachfront electric-pink house has two average rooms for rent, electric showers and meals when you want them. There are two Adirondack chairs alongside a sea-grape tree and shallow waters.
The location is just at the entrance to La Llanita, to the right of a fork in the road.
Restaurante RobertoSEAFOOD$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %31-54-71-26; Las Bocas, Playa Las Bocas; mains CUC$3-12; a)
A coral wall surrounds this small home courtyard with a couple of open-air tables and friendly service. The shady patio is pleasant but there's no sea view. Seafood is offered at all hours, there are also a couple of dark rooms for rent.
8Getting There & Away
There are trucks ($3 moneda nacional) that can take you as far as Puerto Padre from Las Tunas. From Puerto Padre, other trucks ($2 moneda nacional) make the trip. It's much easier to get up this way from Holguín, changing at the town of Velasco.
Driving is the best shot, though after Puerto Padre the road can be in poor condition. Taxis from Puerto Padre cost CUC$20, or more due to road conditions. Taxis from Las Tunas to the beaches cost CUC$61 to CUC$66, depending on the distance.