Holguín Province
Holguín Province
%24 / Pop 1,037,600
Why Go?
In this beautiful hill-studded hinterland, Cuba’s contradictions are magnified. For the visitor, there's rich landscapes ranging from the pine-scented mountains of the Sierra Cristal to the palm-fringed beaches around Guardalavaca. Holguín's beauty was first spied by Christopher Columbus who, by most accounts, docked near Gibara in October 1492 where he was met by a group of curious Taíno natives. The Taínos didn’t survive the ensuing Spanish colonization, though fragments of their legacy can be reconstructed in Holguín Province, which contains more pre-Columbian archaeological sites than anywhere else in Cuba.
Perhaps something in the water breeds extremes. Fulgencio Batista, and his ideological opposite, Fidel Castro, were both reared in this province, as were dissident writers Reinaldo Arenas and Guillermo Infante. There's plenty of contrast in settings as well: the inherent Cuban-ness of Gibara contrasts sharply with the tourist swank of resort-complex Guardalavaca.
When to Go
AGuardalavaca and Playa Pesquero resorts are at their best during the prime tourist season from December until early March.
ALatin music fans should hit Holguín in late October for the Fiesta de la Cultura Iberoamericana
AIn April movie aficionados take over the sleepy town of Gibara for the offbeat Festival Internacional de Cine Pobre.
AThe city of Holguín shows off its religious spirit during the Romerías de Mayo in early May, culminating with a procession up the steep Loma de la Cruz.
ATo avoid the peak storm period, don't travel during the hurricane season from July to mid-November.
Best Places to Sleep
Holguín Province Highlights
1 Loma de la Cruz Seeing Holguín spread out like a map beneath you from the heights of this city peak.
2 Playa Pesquero Reveling in luxuriant beach time at one of several plush resorts.
3 Banes Pedaling leisurely through bucolic villages to this quintessential holguiñero town.
4 Museo Chorro de Maita Discovering Taíno treasures in one of Cuba's most important archaeological sites in Guardalavaca.
5 Gibara Relaxing in gorgeous colonial accommodations in this enigmatic seaside town.
6 Museo Conjunto Histórico de Birán Peeping behind the scenes of the Castro family compound while touring Fidel's childhood home.
7 Salto del Guayabo Gazing upon a spectacular waterfall in Cuba's little Switzerland.
Holguín
Pop 288,400
The nation’s fourth-largest city serves up authentic provincial Cuba without the wrapping paper. Though the city of San Isidoro de Holguín barely features in Cuba’s tourist master plan, there’s magic and mystery here for a certain type of traveler. There's an overabundance of shiny vintage Chevys, plazas filled with uniformed school children sharing wi-fi and interactions not marred by rushing or selling. Use it as a window to life in the interior: from the religious solemnity of the annual procession climbing Loma de la Cruz to the exuberant cheers pouring forth from the oversized baseball stadium.
Although Guardalavaca is nearby, there's little focus on tourism in the provincial capital. You won’t find tour groups milling the streets in migratory herds, but you will find an easy authenticity. Think eager-to-please casas particulares, cheap food in pioneering restaurants and a city that loves – and brews – its own beer.
Holguín
6Drinking & Nightlife
3Entertainment
1Sights
Base yourself around the city's four central squares and you'll see most of what's on offer. However, no walk is complete without a climb up the emblematic Loma de la Cruz – a little off the grid, but well worth the detour.
oMuseo de Historia ProvincialMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-46-33-95; Frexes No 198; CUC$1; 
h8am-4:30pm Tue-Sat, 8am-noon Sun)
Now a national monument, the building on the northern side of Parque Calixto García was constructed between 1860 and 1868 and was used as a Spanish army barracks during the independence wars. It was nicknamed La Periquera (Parrot Cage) for the red, yellow and green uniforms of the Spanish soldiers who stood guard.
The prize exhibit is an old axe-head carved in the likeness of a man, known as the Hacha de Holguín (Holguín Axe), thought to have been made by indigenous inhabitants in the early 1400s and discovered in 1860. Looking even sharper in its polished glass case is a sword that once belonged to national hero and poet, José Martí.
oLa Loma de la CruzLANDMARK
( GOOGLE MAP )
At the northern end of Maceo, a stairway built in 1950 ascends 465 steps to top a hill (275m) with panoramic views, a restaurant and a 24-hour bar. It's a 20-minute walk from the center or go via bici-taxi (CUC$1) to the base. This walk is best tackled early in the morning when the light is pristine and temperature cooler.
A cross was raised here in 1790 in the hope of relieving a drought. During Romerías de Mayo, devotees climb to the summit on May 3 where a special Mass is held.
oCatedral de San IsidoroCATHEDRAL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Manduley)
Dazzling white and characterized by its twin domed towers, the Catedral de San Isidoro, one of the town’s original constructions, dates from 1720. Added over the years, the towers are of 20th-century vintage. A hyper-realistic statue of Pope John Paul II stands right of the main doors. If it's open, take a peek inside at the relatively austere interior.
Parque CéspedesPARK
(Parque San José; MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Holguín's youngest park is also its shadiest. Named for 'Father of the Motherland' Carlos Manuel de Céspedes – his statue stands center stage next to a monument honoring the heroes of the War of Independence – the cobbled central square is dominated by the Iglesia de San José.
The church, with its distinctive mezzanine floor, dome and belltower, was once used by the Independistas as a lookout tower. Locals still refer to the park by its old name, San José.
Parque PeraltaSQUARE
(Parque de las Flores; MAP GOOGLE MAP )
This square is named for General Julio Grave de Peralta (1834–72), who led an uprising against Spain in Holguín in October 1868. His marble statue (1916) faces the imposing Catedral de San Isidoro. On the western side of the park is the Mural de Origen, depicting the development of Holguín and of Cuba from indigenous times to the end of slavery.
Fábrica de ÓrganosFACTORY
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Carretera de Gibara No 301; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri)
Visitors can tour the only mechanical music-organ factory in Cuba. This small factory produces about six organs a year, as well as guitars and other instruments. A good organ costs between US$10,000 and US$28,000. Eight professional organ groups exist in Holguín (including the Familia Cuayo, based at the factory): if you're lucky, you can hear one playing on Parque Céspedes on Thursday afternoon or Sunday morning.
Plaza de la MarquetaSQUARE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Laid out in 1848, rebuilt in 1918 and renovated only recently, this gleaming square is dominated by bronze busts and an impressive covered marketplace housing a cafe and artisan stalls. Running along the north and south sides of the plaza are myriad shops selling music, crafts and cigars.
Parque Calixto GarcíaSQUARE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
This wide, expansive square is more about atmosphere than architecture. It was laid out in 1719 as the original Plaza de Armas and served for many years as the town's meeting point and marketplace. The centerpiece today is a 1912 statue of General Calixto García, where you'll find a mixture of old sages, baseball naysayers and teenagers on the prowl.
In the southwestern corner of Parque Calixto García is the Centro de Arte (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-42-23-92; Maceo No 180; h9am-4pm Mon-Sat), a gallery for temporary exhibitions that shares space with Biblioteca Alex Urquiola (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-46-25-62; Maceo No 178; h8am-9pm Mon-Sat), named after a local revolutionary and housing Holguín's biggest book collection.
Casa Natal de Calixto GarcíaMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-42-56-10; Miró No 147; CUC$1; h9am-5pm Tue-Sat)
To learn more about the militaristic deeds of Holguín's local hero, head to this house situated two blocks east of the namesake park. The hugely underestimated García – who stole the cities of Las Tunas, Holguín and Bayamo from Spanish control between 1896 and 1898 – was born here in 1839.
This small collection gives a reasonable overview of his life: military maps, old uniforms and even a spoon he ate with on the campaign trail in 1885.
Plaza de la RevoluciónSQUARE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Holguín is a city most fiel (faithful) and its bombastic revolutionary plaza, east of the center, is a huge monument to the heroes of Cuban independence, bearing quotations from José Martí and Fidel Castro. Massive rallies are held here every May 1 (Labor Day). The tomb of Calixto García ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Plaza de l Revolución), containing his ashes, is also here, as is as a smaller monument to García's mother.
Iglesia de San JoséCHURCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Manduley No 116)
In Parque Céspedes, the Iglesia de San José features a distinctive dome with a bell tower (1842), once used by the Independistas as a lookout.
Central Holguín
1Sights
4Sleeping
6Drinking & Nightlife
7Shopping
zFestivals & Events
oFiesta de la Cultura IberoamericanaMUSIC
(www.casadeiberoamerica.cult.cu; hlate Oct)
Musicians from all over Latin America and beyond take over the city for a week of concerts (many free) in venues throughout the city. Some big Cuban acts play, too. Forty countries and diverse genres are represented. There are also workshops for musicians and a nod to the arts and dance.
Romerías de MayoRELIGIOUS
(hMay)
Holguín's big annual pilgrimage is held the first week of May: devotees climb Loma de la Cruz for a special mass. The whole city turns out to follow the procession from the Catedral de San Isidro, a custom dating back to the 1790s. In recent times the parade has become livelier with arty contributions from the Hermanos Saíz youth organization.
4Sleeping
La Palma Casa EnriqueCASA PARTICULAR$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-42-46-83; lapalmaenrique@nauta.cu; Maceo No 52a, btwn Calles 16 & 18, El Llano; r CUC$25; 
a)
Resembling a little piece of Florida, this smart, detached neocolonial with requisite palm tree dates from 1945. It sits in the shadow of the Loma de la Cruz, a calm location worth the minor inconvenience. Two spacious guest rooms occupy their own wing of the house, offering ample privacy. Enrique is a thoughtful and helpful host.
Check out the skilled artwork of Enrique's son: a terra-cotta bust of Che Guevara in the living room next to an unusual 3m-long canvas copy of Da Vinci's The Last Supper with St John as a woman. There's wi-fi in a plaza one block away.
Villa LibaCASA PARTICULAR$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-42-38-23, 52-89-69-31; Maceo No 46, cnr Calle 18; s/d CUC$25/30; a)
The alma (soul) bubbles over at this smart, soulful bungalow invoking a 1950s North American suburb. At the center are welcoming hosts: Jorge is a modern-day Pablo Neruda with whimsical anecdotes aplenty on Holguín life; and Mariela is an accomplished massage and Reiki specialist offering on-site treatment (CUC$25). It's worth dining in. Meals (CUC$4 to CUC$8), including vegetarian fare, have a Lebanese flair.
Villa JanethCASA PARTICULAR$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-42-93-31, mobile 53-14-03-13; filihlg@infomed.sld.cu; Cables No 105; CUC$20-25; a)
With great spaces, Janeth's clean, spacious house is a solid choice. Guests have the run of a full floor with balcony. There's classic Cuban style: one princess pink room and another featuring a king-sized bed with a leather headboard. There's kitchen use, TV and electric showers. She's also a welcoming host.
Villa Mirador de MayabeHOTEL$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-42-21-60; director@mayabe.islazul.tur.cu; Alturas de Mayabe Km8; s/d/ste CUC$69/81/102; 
pa
W
s)
Cresting the Loma de Mayabe, 10km southeast of Holguín, this large hilltop compound includes adorable bungalows tucked into lush grounds. The views, taking in vast mango plantations, are especially good from the pool. For families, it's a welcome retreat. Pastel bungalows are small but pleasant, but the thatched restaurant is unremarkable.
Hotel PernikHOTEL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-48-10-11; cnr Avs Jorge Dimitrov & XX Aniversario; s/d incl breakfast CUC$40/65; pa
iWs)
The nearest decent hotel to the city center is another dose of Soviet-inspired '70s nostalgia. Its dour reputation is partially offset by edgy art by local artists. The breakfast buffet is plentiful and there's an information office, Cadeca (money exchange) and internet cafe. However, the hotel suffers from the usual foibles of interminable renovations and blaring late-night music.
oHotel CaballerizaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-42-91-91; www.hotelescubanacan.com; Calle Miró No 203; s/d incl breakfast CUC$100/130; aW)
A renovated 1846 mansion that's seen it all. After the original owner went bankrupt it was turned into stables. Now it sports contemporary interiors with a grand colonial facade. The grand entrance features a lobby bar and restaurant. Branching off a central courtyard, big rooms have 19th-century decor and flat-screen TVs.
There's 24-hour reception, attentive service and money changing services.
It's part of the elite Encanto hotel line represented by Cubanacán.
5Eating
The 2011 relaxing of restrictions on private restaurants benefited Holguín more than most cities: there's a stash of reasonable private restaurants here more frequented by locals than tourists.
Restaurante-Bar San JoséCUBAN$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-42-48-77; Agramonte No 188; meals CUC$3-7; hnoon-11pm)
A hub of locals slap-bang in the central square (Parque Céspedes) with mismatched paint and uniformed servers. The menu is nothing fancy, but this is where you come for comida criolla (Creole food) not duck á l'orange.
Cremería GuamáICE CREAM$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-46-26-22; cnr Luz Caballero & Manduley; ice cream CUC$1; h10am-10:45pm)
Havana's famous ice-cream parlor. Lose an hour underneath the striped red-and-white awning overlooking pedestrianized Calle Manduley and enjoy peso treats alfresco.
o1910 Restaurante & BarINTERNATIONAL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-42-39-94; www.1910restaurantebar.com; Mártires No 143, btwn Aricochea & Cables; meals CUC$8-11; hnoon-midnight)
Among Cuba's best offerings, count this elegant wood-trimmed colonial in. Guests tuck into thick steaks as if it were their last day on earth. There's also tender grilled octopus with garlic sauce, lovely chocolate torta (cake) and an extensive wine and liquor menu. Courteous service to boot. The restaurant is filled with locals and travelers alike. Come early or reserve.
Restaurante MaragatoCUBAN$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %mobile 52-46-68-02; Calle Carbo, btwn Garayalde & Agramonte; mains CUC$4-11)
Worth getting off the beaten path for, this easygoing restaurant does comida criolla (Creole food) with style. It also has the best cocktail bar in town, thanks to the barman owner. Dine on grilled meats, tender lamb shanks, yams and fresh salad. It's in front of the Hospital Lenin on a breezy 3rd-floor terrace.
Ranchón Los AlmendrosPARRILLA$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-42-96-52; José A Cardet No 68, btwn Calles 12 & 14; mains CUC$10-12; h10am-11pm)
With excellent smoked meats with copious trimmings, tostones (fried plantain) and huge stuffed peppers filled with ropa vieja (shredded beef), this restaurant is worth the little bit extra it costs. Located near the Loma de la Cruz, it doesn't look much from the outside but rest assured – inside is a different story.
Salón 1720CARIBBEAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-46-81-50; Frexes No 190, cnr Miró; meals CUC$6-9; hnoon-10:30pm)
A painstakingly restored wedding cake mansion with a full, social atmosphere. Tuck into paella or chicken stuffed with vegetables and cheese; there's even complimentary crackers. In the same colonial-style complex there's a cigar shop, bar, boutique, car rental and a terrace with nighttime music. Check out the wall plaques that give interesting insights into Holguín's history.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Welcome to beer city. The local bars aren't too flash, but you can cobble together a decent pub crawl here.
Casa de la MúsicaCLUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-42-95-61; cnr Frexes & Manduley; hTue-Sun)
There's a young, trendy vibe at this place on Parque Calixto García. If you can't dance, stay static sinking beers on the adjacent Terraza Bucanero (entry via Calle Manduley).
Bar TerrazaBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Frexes, btwn Manduley & Miró; h8pm-1am)
Perched above Salón 1720, this is the city's poshest spot. Cocktails are in order as you drink in the views over Parque Calixto García while listening to live music.
Terraza del PernikCLUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-48-10-11; Hotel Pernik, cnr Avs Jorge Dimitrov & XX Aniversario; guest/nonguest CUC$2/4; h10pm-2am Tue-Sun)
Holguín's premier disco at Hotel Pernik. If you're staying there, the music will visit you – in your room – like it or not, until 1am.
Disco CristalCLUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-42-10-41; 3rd fl, Edificio Pico de Cristal, Manduley No 199; CUC$1; h9pm-2am Tue-Thu)
A nexus for Holguín's skilled dancers (most of whom are young, cool and determined to have a good time), this place is insanely popular at weekends when you'll find lots of inspiration for the salsa/rap/reggaeton (Cuban hip-hop) repertoire.
El NocturnoCLUB
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-42-93-45; Av Cajígal; CUC$8; h10pm-2am)
This is a Tropicana-style cabaret club beyond the Servi-Cupet gas station, 3km out on the road to Las Tunas.
Las 3 LucíasCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-45-18-72; cnr Mártires & Frexes; h7am-11pm)
Decorated in Cuban film memorabilia, this fancy cafe evokes a classy atmosphere of yesteryear – save for the big wall-mounted TV. It's known locally as a cheap outing. The cocktails are good, the coffee's alright and the atmosphere is pretty unique.
Lucía was a 1968 classic Cuban film about the lives of three women, each named Lucía, in different periods: the War of Independence, the 1930s and the 1960s.
Taberna MayabeBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Manduley, btwn Aguilera & Frexes; hnoon-6pm & 8-11pm Tue-Sun)
A grotty tavern on pedestrian-only Manduley, where wooden tables and ceramic mugs create a hearty olden days atmosphere. Solo travelers elicit more than one sideways glance. Best for pairs or groups. The eponymous local brew is served.
3Entertainment
oUneacTHEATER, MUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-47-40-66; Manduley, btwn Luz Caballero & Martí)
There's at least one National Union of Cuban Writers and Artists per province in Cuba, but if you visit only one, make it here. Situated in the lovingly restored Casa de las Moyúas (1845) on car-free Calle Manduley, this friendly establishment offers literary evenings with famous authors, music nights, patio theater (including Lorca) and cultural reviews.
There's an intermittent bar on a gorgeous central patio and an on-site art gallery/studio called La Cochera.
oTeatro Comandante Eddy SuñolTHEATER
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-42-79-94; Martí No 111; 
c)
Holguín's premier theater is an art deco treat from 1939 on Parque Calixto García. It hosts both the Teatro Lírico Rodrigo Prats and the Ballet Nacional de Cuba, and is renowned both nationally and internationally for its operettas, dance performances and Spanish musicals.
Check here for details of performances by the famous children's theater Alas Buenas and the Orquesta Sinfónica de Holguín (Holguín Symphony Orchestra).
oCasa de la TrovaLIVE MUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-45-31-04; Maceo No 174; hTue-Sun)
Old guys in Panama hats croon under the rafters, musicians in guayaberas (Caribbean dress shirts) blast on trumpets, while ancient couples in their Sunday best map out a perfect danzón (traditional Cuban ballroom dance). So timeless, so Holguín.
Salón Benny MoréLIVE MUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-42-35-18; cnr Luz Caballero & Maceo; hshow 10:30pm)
Holguín's impressive outdoor music venue is the best place to round off a bar crawl with some live music and dancing.
Estadio General Calixto GarcíaSPECTATOR SPORT
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-42-26-14; off Av de los Libertadores; CUC$1-2)
Mosey on down to this stadium to see Holguín's baseball team, former giant-killers the Perros (dogs) who snatched the national championship from under the noses of the 'big two' in 2002, but haven't barked much since. The stadium also houses a small but interesting sport museum.
7Shopping
Fondo de Bienes CulturalesARTS & CRAFTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-42-37-82; Frexes No 196; h10am-3pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat)
This state-run shop on Parque Calixto García sells small, affordable paintings and similar handicrafts to the private vendor market a few blocks away.
Bazar – Proyecto de Desarollo LocalMARKET
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Manduley, btwn Aguilera & Arias; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat)
The local private market as opposed to the nearby government-run affair. This Bazar sells a similar stash of trinkets, Afro-Cuban masks and clothing, but the money goes directly into the pockets of the vendors. Capitalismo or socialismo – take your pick.
PentagramaMUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-45-31-35; cnr Maceo & Martí; h8am-noon & 12:30-4:30pm)
Official outlet of the Cuban state record company Egrem, selling a small but decent stash of CDs.
El JigueBOOKS, SOUVENIRS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %26-46-85-21; cnr Martí & Mártires; h9am-5pm)
Well-stocked bookstore and souvenir outlet adjacent to Plaza de la Marqueta.
8Information
Internet Access
There is a wi-fi hotspot in Parque Calixto García.
Etecsa TelepuntoINTERNET
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-47-40-67; Calle Martí No 122, btwn Martires & Máximo Gómez; internet per hr CUC$1.50; h8:30am-7:30pm)
Branch of Cuban phone company selling wi-fi scratchcards.
Medical Services
Farmacia Turno EspecialMEDICAL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-42-57-90; Maceo No 170; h8am-10pm Mon-Sat)
Pharmacy on Parque Calixto García.
Hospital LeninHOSPITAL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-42-53-02; Av VI Lenin)
Will treat foreigners in an emergency.
Money
Banco de Crédito y ComercioBANK
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-46-73-89; Arias; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri)
Bank on Parque Céspedes with ATM.
Banco Financiero InternacionalBANK
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-46-85-02; Manduley No 167, btwn Frexes & Aguilera; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri)
Has an ATM.
CadecaEXCHANGE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-46-86-63; Manduley No 205, btwn Martí & Luz Caballero)
Money-changing.
Post
Tourist Information
A number of agencies near the main plaza offer similar services for reservations, tickets and tours.
InfoturTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-42-50-13; 1st fl, Edificio Pico de Cristal, cnr Manduley & Martí; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri & alternate Sat)
Tourist information on the 2nd floor above Cafetería Cristal.
Travel Agencies
CubaturTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; Edificio Pico de Cristal, cnr Manduley & Martí)
Travel agent bivouacked inside the Cafetería Begonias at a guest table. Useful for Viazul tickets.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Frank País AirportAIRPORT
(HOG;
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-47-46-30)
There are frequent international flights into Holguín’s well-organized airport, 13km south of the city, including from Amsterdam, Düsseldorf, London, Montreal and Toronto. Almost all arrivals bus directly to Guardalavaca.
Bus
A daily bus, run by Transtur, connects to the Guardalavaca resorts (round-trip CUC$15). It departs from outside the Museo de Historia Provincial daily at 1pm, returning from Guardalavaca at 8am.
Interprovincial Bus StationBUS
( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Carretera Central & Independencia)
West of the center near Hospital Lenin, this station houses Víazul (www.viazul.com).
Víazul Bus Departures from Holguín
| Destination | Cost (CUC$) | Duration (HR) | Daily Departures |
|---|---|---|---|
| Havana | 44 | 12 | 7:45am, 10:10am, 8:20pm, 9:15pm |
| Santiago | 11 | 3.5 | 3:55am, 9:50am, 4:45pm |
| Trinidad | 26 | 7¾ | 11:15pm |
| Varadero | 38 | 11¼ | 11:45pm |
Car
Colectivos (shared cars) run to Gibara (CUC$4) and Puerto Padre in Las Tunas Province from Av Cajígal. Those going to Guardalavaca (CUC$5) leave from outside Estadio General Calixto García.
Train
For starters, no one recommends the train. The only service that operates with any regularity is the train to Havana. The service to Santiago de Cuba is rather irregular. Research beforehand.
For Havana, change trains at the Santiago–Havana mainline junction in Cacocum, 17km south of Holguín. Theoretically, there's one daily morning train to Las Tunas (CUC$3, two hours), an 8am train every three days to Guantánamo, three daily trains to Santiago de Cuba (CUC$5, 3½ hours) and two daily trains (10:19pm and 5:28am) to Havana (CUC$26, 15 hours). This train stops in Camagüey (CUC$6.50), Ciego de Ávila (CUC$10.50), Santa Clara (CUC$15.50) and Matanzas (CUC$22.50).
Train StationTRAIN STATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-42-23-31; Calle V Pita 3)
The train station is on the southern side of town.
Truck
Terminal Dagoberto Sanfield GuillénTRUCK
( GOOGLE MAP ; Av de los Libertadores)
Opposite Estadio General Calixto García, this area has at least two daily trucks to Gibara, Banes and Moa.
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
Airport Bus StopBUS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; General Rodríguez No 84; hdeparts 2pm)
The public bus to the airport leaves from the airport bus stop on Parque Martí near the train station.
Bici-Taxi
Definitely worth a try, the sidecar bici-taxi, resembling a bike with a wheelchair fused on, was invented here. Holguín's ubiquitous bici-taxis charge CUC$1 for a short trip, CUC$2 for a long one.
Car
You can rent or return a car at Cubacar, with branches at Hotel Pernik (
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-46-84-14; Av Jorge Dimitrov, Hotel Pernik; h8am-9pm), Aeropuerto Frank País (
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-46-84-14; Aeropuerto Frank País) and Cafetería Cristal (
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-46-85-59; cnr Manduley & Martí; h8am-9pm).
A Servi-Cupet gas station (
GOOGLE MAP
; Av Cajigal s/n; h24hr) is 3km out of town toward Las Tunas; another station is just outside town on the road to Gibara. An Oro Negro gas station (
GOOGLE MAP
; Carretera Central) is on the southern edge of town. The road to Gibara is north on Av Cajígal; also take this road and fork left after 5km to reach Playa la Herradura.
Taxi
A Cubataxi (
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-47-35-35; Máximo Gómez cnr Martí) to Guardalavaca (54km) costs around CUC$35. To Gibara one way should cost no more than CUC$20.
Gibara
Pop 73,000
Matched only by Baracoa for its wild coastal setting, half-forgotten Gibara, with its faded pastel facades and surging ocean rollers, conspires to seduce you. Close to Holguín, there's a cultural life here that seems big for a small town. In 2008, Hurricane Ike almost wiped the town off the map. Luckily, it did not.
Situated 33km from Holguín via a scenic road that undulates through villages, Gibara is a small, intimate place receiving a lift from much-needed investment. Unlike nearby Guardalavaca, development here is low-key and focused on renovating the town's beautiful but dilapidated architecture. The saddle-shaped Silla de Gibara that so captivated Columbus creates a wild, scenic backdrop. Nearby is the site of one of Cuba's first wind farms.
Each April Gibara hosts the Festival Internacional de Cine Pobre, which draws films and filmmakers from all over the world.
History
Columbus first arrived in the area in 1492 and called it Río de Mares (River of Seas) for the Ríos Cacoyugüín and Yabazón that drain into the Bahía de Gibara. The current name comes from jiba, the indigenous word for a bush that still grows along the shore.
Refounded in 1817, Gibara prospered in the 19th century as the sugar industry expanded and the trade rolled in. To protect the settlement from pirates, barracks and a 2km wall were constructed around the town in the early 1800s, making Gibara Cuba's second walled city (after Havana). The once sparkling-white facades earned Gibara its nickname, La Villa Blanca.
Holguín's outlet to the sea was once an important sugar-export town that was linked to the provincial capital via a railway. With the construction of the Carretera Central in the 1920s, Gibara lost its mercantile importance and, after the last train service was axed in 1958, the town fell into a sleepy slumber from which it has yet to fully awaken.
1Sights
Gibara has seen a small renaissance with government investment aimed at restoring and renovating the city's architecture. Though the specific attractions are few, rather like Baracoa, this is more a town to stroll the streets and absorb the local flavor. There are a couple of decent beaches within striking distance of Gibara, however.
In Town
El CañonazoMUSEUM
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MAP
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; %53-81-26-72; elpatriotaflores@gmail.com; hhours vary)
There's nothing else quite like this in Cuba. Known as the patriot, Miguel Flores has a quirky collection of homemade satire memorabilia featuring the Pope, Obama, 1950s movie stars and others. He is even considering a parody slave auction targeting Cuba's history. Refusing to take sides in politics, he calls all art 'a statement for peace.'
Iglesia de San FulgencioCHURCH
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; h8am-noon & 2-4:30pm Tue-Sun)
Built in 1850, this church was recently the recipient of a gleaming renovation.
Parque Calixto GarcíaSQUARE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
A central plaza lined with weird robles africanos, African oaks with large pods. The Statue of Liberty in front commemorates the Spanish-Cuban-American War.
Spanish FortsFORT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
At the top of Calle Cabada, this crumbling brick Spanish fort with graceful arches provides stunning town and bay views. Continue on this street for 200m to Restaurante el Mirador for an even better vantage point. You'll see remnants of the old fortresses here and at the Fuerte Fernando VII, on the point beyond Parque de las Madres, a block over from Parque Calixto García. There's also a sentinel tower at the entrance to the town, coming in from Holguín.
Museo de Historia NaturalMUSEUM
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; Luz Caballero No 23; CUC$1; h8am-noon & 1-5pm Tue-Sat, 1-4pm Mon)
Housed in a worn colonial palace (more interesting than the stuffed stuff it collects), is the Museo de Historia Natural. Through barred windows you can watch women rolling cheroots in the cigar factory across the square.
Outside Town
Playa CaletonesBEACH
( GOOGLE MAP )
A lovely little beach 17km west of Gibara. The apostrophe-shaped stretch of white sand and azure sea here is a favorite of Holguín vacationers. The town is ramshackle, with no services except a rustic restaurant. Ask here about freshwater pozas (pools) where you can go swimming. Get here by bike, taxi (round-trip with wait CUC$25) or rental car.
Guided cenote diving (CUC$10), 5km further along, purportedly visits some of Cuba's best cave diving sites. You'll need your own equipment. With crystalline waters, the cave system goes back some 3000m, with water depth about 15m.
On the beachfront road, Restaurante La Proa serves up some of Cuba's most delectable fresh seafood on an upstairs terrace overlooking the water.
Caverna de PanaderosCAVE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Independencia; excursion CUC$5)
This complex cave system with 19 galleries and a lengthy underground trail is close to town at the top end of Calle Independencia. Guides are required as there are no installations or signs here. Go with a qualified local guide who can offer helmets and headlamps. The walk to the cave is 1km. Those who are not too claustrophobic can squeeze into an inner chamber with a lake where you can swim. Reserve at least two hours for the excursion.
Locals have been working arduously to clean up this trail and remove an improvised trash dump from near the entrance, but it's still a work in progress, particularly before and near the entrance.
Playa BlancaBEACH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Located across the bay, this small sandy beach begs for bathers. From the Gibara dock, take a local lancha (open boat ferry; CUC$2) across the Bahía de Gibara to Juan Antonio, from where it's 400m on to Playa Blanca. There's a casa particular but no services so bring your own picnic.
2Activities
Silla de GibaraCLIMBING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Silla de Gibara, the saddle-shaped limestone crag 35km southeast of Gibara, has around 20 'mapped' climbing routes on its shadowy north face, best tackled in the cooler months between November and February. With little government support, climbing here is similar to Viñales. Bring your own gear and use a guide.
TTours
Jose CorellaTOURS
(%mobile 53-97-90-96; joselin54@nauta.cu; city tour CUC$5)
Professional and friendly, Gibara's resident historian also guides tours on weekends to Caverna de Panaderos and guides dives to the cave system near Playa Caletones. He also offers short historic city tours.
Alexis Silva GarcíaTOURS
(%24-84-44-58)
Local guide for Gibara-based climbing and caving excursions. Find him at the Museo de Historia Natural.
zFestivals & Events
oFestival Internacional de Cine PobreFILM
(International Low-Budget Film Festival; www.cinepobre.com; hApr)
Open to independent filmmakers of limited means, this festival in Gibara takes place in April. Despite limited advertising, it attracts up to US$100,000 in prize money.
DON'T MISS
THE POOR PERSON'S FILM FESTIVAL
There's no red carpet, no paparazzi and no Hollywood stars, but what the Festival Internacional de Cine Pobre lacks in glitz it makes up for in raw, undiscovered talent. Then there's the setting – ethereal Gibara, Cuba's crumbling Villa Blanca, a perfect antidote to the opulence of Hollywood and Cannes.
Inaugurated in 2003, the Cine Pobre was the brainchild of late Cuban director Humberto Solás, who fell in love with this quintessential fisherman's town after shooting his seminal movie Lucía here in 1968.
Open to independent filmmakers of limited means, the festival takes place in April and, despite limited advertising, attracts up to US$100,000 in prize money. Lasting for seven days, proceedings kick off with a gala in the Cine Jiba followed by film showings, art exhibitions and nightly music concerts. The competition is friendly but hotly contested, with prizes used to reward and recognize an eclectic cache of digital movie guerrillas drawn from countries as varied as Iran and the US.
4Sleeping
Hotel offerings are slowly improving in Gibara, while casas particulares have solid offerings.
oHostal Sol y MarCASA PARTICULAR$
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; %52-40-21-64; J Peralta No 59; r CUC$25; a)
With wonderful sea breezes and romantic sea views, this big yellow waterfront home beats all competition on ambience. The multiple terraces are conducive to privacy. Five rooms are well-equipped and modern with electric showers. The young host, who can speak French, English, Dutch and German, will make your stay a pleasant one. There's a self-catering kitchen.
oHostal El PatioCASA PARTICULAR$
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; %24-84-42-69; oceanomg@nauta.cu; J Mora No 19, btwn Cuba & J Agüero; r CUC$30; a)
Tucked away behind this high-walled patio are Gibara's coziest digs: a lovely, partially covered, plant-strewn patio leading to airy renovated rooms. Think updated '50's style, white with bright accents. There's also a rooftop terrace. Mealtimes are magical in this little getaway and the family is very helpful with local information.
BayviewCASA PARTICULAR$
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; %52-24-55-70; Playa Blanca; r CUC$25-30; a)
Location, location, location. With boat access only, this small house is 900m from Playa Blanca, a comma of white sand blissfully free of development. There are hammocks and the possibility of home-cooked meals. To get here, take the 10-minute ferry from Gibara. It's not to be confused with the Playa Blanca near Guardalavaca. Reservations only – call Jimmy.
La Luz del NorteCASA PARTICULAR$
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; %58-60-64-49; anabeatriziberia@nauta.cu; Donato Marmol No 69; r CUC$25; aW)
Crafted for the millennial crowd, this cool refurbished home maintains its plank wooden floors with sparse furnishings and trompe I'oeil murals showing vivid sunsets or a Magritte-worthy wall of clouds surrounding an open window. There's five rooms and ample living space, a bit uphill from the action. The host Ana speaks English and has hotel experience.
Hotel ArsenitaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
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; %24-84-44-00; reservas.arsenita@cubanacan.gibara.tur.cu; s/d incl breakfast CUC$80/110; ai)
This brand-new colonial remodel infuses old-time glamour into staid old Parque Calixto García. There's an adorable three-seat lobby bar with a bow-tied barman mixing daiquiris, a gorgeous wall mural in the vaulted entry and 12 modern rooms with flat-screen TVs. In truth, it's the second-best hotel in town but we like its can-do spirit.
oHotel OrdoñoHOTEL$$$
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; %24-84-44-48; recepcion@hotelordono.tur.cu; J Peralta, cnr Donato Mámol & Independencia; s/d/ste incl breakfast CUC$100/130/160; ai)
Once a general store, this majestic three-story colonial oozes character. Renovated recently with designs by young architects, it has maintained enormous rooms, particularly on the 3rd floor, some with details like filigree pillars. There's 27 in total plus a lovely roof terrace. Run by Cubanacán.
Throw in exemplary service and an ethereal Gibara setting and you'll feel like Louis XIV kicking back in Versailles (without the guilty conscience). Best hotel in Cuba? Definitely a contender.
5Eating
At the speed of a Cadillac on a potholed track, things are modernizing. Some enterprising casas particulares operate as private restaurants.
oLa CuevaPARRILLA$
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; %24-84-53-33; Calle 2da, cnr Carretera & Playa Caletones; dishes CUC$6; hnoon-midnight Tue-Sun)
Gibara's eating scene becomes imaginative with this private place that grows its own herbs to garnish those grilled meats. It even has a small farm. There's a ranchón-style part and a more formal restaurant area above. It's at the northern end of town; you can get there by horse cart (CUC$2).
La Perla del NorteSEAFOOD$
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; Céspedes; mains $3-11; h11am-11pm)
For above average seafood fare, this 2nd-story restaurant is a godsend. Go for the crab, camarones enchilados (shrimp in garlicky-tomato sauce), tasty fried rice and crisp plantain chips. There's a bit of outdoor seating or a chilly dining room. It's ultra-clean.
La Casa de Los AmigosSEAFOOD$$
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; %24-84-41-15; Céspedes 15, btwn J Peralta & Luz Caballero; meals CUC$5-10)
Both casa and private restaurant, this place has an amazing interior patio with frescoes, a gazebo and hand-painted Gibara doors. It rents rooms, but the dining is more notable – a profusion of local fish dishes with ample trimmings.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Bar La LojaBAR
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; %24-84-44-85; Calle J Agüero; h9am-midnight Wed-Sun, 4pm-midnight Mon-Tue; W)
Another quiver in Gibara's freshly renovated bow, this bar next to the Casa de la Cultura hosts live music on Friday and Sunday nights, but is always a good place to hang with the locals. They also feature a wine cave and a huge interior patio.
3Entertainment
As in most Cuban seaside towns, the local 'yoof' hang around in the vicinity of the Malecón on weekend evenings. Spontaneous outbreaks of music are likely at any time in and around Parque Calixto García and Parque Colón.
Siglo XXCULTURAL CENTER
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; %24-84-54-75; Calle Martí; h8am-5pm Mon-Tue, 8am-11pm Wed-Sun)
A fine cultural center in the main square that hosts live traditional music on a Saturday night and provides the taped stuff at other times. The courtyard is a good place to chill with an icy refresco on a hot afternoon.
Cine JibaCINEMA
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-84-46-89; Parque Calixto García)
Cuba's improbable poor person's film festival hosts most of its cutting-edge movies (some in English) in this small but quirky cinema covered with distinctive art-house movie posters. If you're going to go to the cinema anywhere in Cuba, it should be in Gibara – it's a local rite of passage.
8Information
Money
Change money in nearby Holguín.
BandecBANK
(
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; %24-84-41-01; cnr Independencia & J Peralta; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri)
Also changes traveler's checks.
Post
8Getting There & Away
There are no Víazul buses to Gibara. Travelers can tackle the route with Cuban transport on a truck or shared colectivo taxi (CUC$5) from Holguín. The bus station is 1km out on the road to Holguín. There are two daily buses (CUC$1) in each direction. It's possible to taxi to Holguín airport (CUC$40) or Guardalavaca (CUC$40).
For drivers heading toward Guardalavaca, the link road from the junction at Floro Pérez is hell at first, but improves just outside Rafael Freyre. There's an Oro Negro gas station at the entrance to town.
To get to Playa Blanca, take the ferry (CUC$2) to Juan Antonio and the beach is 400m further. It leaves the dock at 6:30am, 8:30am, 10:10am, 1pm, 3:40pm and 5pm.
Playa Pesquero & Around
With a luxury Caribbean sheen missing elsewhere on the island, these lesser-known beaches make for one serious getaway. The beach is sublime, with golden sand, shallow, warm water and great opportunities for snorkeling. You won't find a lot of action: besides a small shopping center, there is little to do beyond lounging. Of Holguín's three northern resort areas, Playa Pesquero (Fisher's Beach) is the most high-end. There are four tourist colossi here, including the five-star Hotel Playa Pesquero.
Nearby Playa Esmeralda occupies the middle ground between Guardalavaca's economy and Playa Pesquero's opulence. Two megaresorts line this superior stretch of beach, 6km to the west of Guardalavaca and accessed by a spur just east of the Cayo Naranjo boat launch.
1Sights
Bioparque Rocazul, Parque Nacional Monumento Bariay and Las Guanas at Playa Esmeralda are part of the Parque Natural Cristóbal Colón.
oBioparque RocazulNATURE RESERVE
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; %115 24-43-33-10; ejecutivo.comercial@pncolon.co.cu; Playa Esmeralda; h9am-5:30pm; c)
Located just off the link road that joins Playa Turquesa with the other Pesquero resorts, this protected park in Parque Natural Cristóbal Colón offers the usual hand-holding array of outdoor activities under the supervision of a nonnegotiable government guide. It's a commendable environmental effort in a major resort area, but the limitations can be a little stifling (and costly).
There's leisurely walking excursions (first hour CUC$8, per extra hour CUC$2), horseback riding (per hour CUC$16) and reef fishing (CUC$49). If you plan to stay the whole day, opt for the 'day in the country' (package CUC$40). The park is extensive with hills, trails, a minizoo aimed at kids and ocean access. You can also overnight in a cabin ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Bioparque Rocaazul; r incl 3 meals CUC$59). There's a friendly bar at the entrance to the park where you can weigh up the options.
Parque Nacional Monumento BariayHISTORIC SITE
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; %24-43-07-66; Playa Blanca; CUC$8; h9am-5pm)
Ten kilometers west of Playa Pesquero and 3km west of Villa Don Lino is Playa Blanca. Columbus landed somewhere near here in 1492. The meeting of two cultures is commemorated with a goofy reenactment and through varied sights including an impressive Hellenic-style monument designed by Holguín artist Caridad Ramos for the 500th anniversary of the landing in 1992.
Other points of interest include an information center, the remains of a 19th-century Spanish fort, three reconstructed Taíno Indian huts and an archaeological museum. It makes a pleasant afternoon's sojourn.
Las Guanas Eco-Archaeological TrailNATURE RESERVE
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; CUC$3; h8am-4:30pm)
At the end of the Playa Esmeralda road is this self-guided hike, which at CUC$3 for 1km, is quite possibly Cuba's (and one of the world's) most expensive trail. Walk slowly to get your money's worth! The marked route (with several more kilometers of bushwhacking on fire trails leading to a picturesque bluff with a lighthouse) apparently boasts 14 endemic plant species. Inauthentic sculptures of indigenous Taíno guard the route.
The bluff was originally touted for hotel development, but was saved from the bulldozers by government intervention. A model at the start shows what the hotel would have looked like.
4Sleeping
Playa Pesquero
Campismo Silla de GibaraCABIN$
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; %24-42-28-81; Rafael Freyre; s/d CUC$18/36; ps)
Recently renovated, this campismo (cheap rustic accommodation) sits on sloping ground beneath Gibara's signature saddle-shaped hill. Reached via a rough road between Floro Pérez and Rafael Freyre, it's 35km southeast of Gibara itself and 1.5km off the main road. There are 42 rooms sleeping two, four or six people, but come for the views, not the comfort.
There's also a cave you can hike to, 1.5km up the hill, and horses for rent. It's best to make reservations with Cubamar rather than just turn up.
Villa Don LinoCABIN$$
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; %24-43-03-08; director@donlino.co.cu; Rafael Freyre; s/d from CUC$49/78; pas)
The bargain alternative to Playa Pesquero's 'big four,' Don Lino's refurbished wooden cabañas are planted right on a diminutive white beach. It makes for a romantic retreat. There's a small pool, nighttime entertainment and an element of Cuban-ness missing in the bigger resorts. Villa Don Lino is 8.5km north of Rafael Freyre along a spur road.
oHotel Playa PesqueroRESORT$$$
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; %24-43-35-30; Playa Pesquero; all-inclusive s/d CUC$175/280, premium CUC$430; paiWs)
Among Cuba's biggest hotels, Playa Pesquero has 933 rooms, prime real estate on a beautiful beach. It was opened by Fidel Castro in 2003, and his speech is displayed in the reception area. Beautifully landscaped grounds over 30 hectares include Italianate fountains, fancy shops, seven restaurants, a spa, floodlit tennis courts and acres of swimming pool space – all linked by zippy golf carts.
It has recently added a premium area that's adult only, with 56 luxury rooms with outdoor showers, spa tubs, free wi-fi in rooms and iPhone docks.
Blau Costa VerdeRESORT$$$
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; %24-43-35-10; www.blauhotels.com; Playa Pesquero; all-inclusive s/d CUC$107/184)
With blocky architecture, this smaller offering turns out to be decent value, especially for divers who can take advantage of the on-site dive center. Beyond attractive tile rooms, there's decent amenities, including wi-fi.
Hotel Playa Costa VerdeRESORT$$$
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; %24-43-05-20; reservationsmanager@playacostaverde.co.cu; Playa Pesquero; all-inclusive s/d CUC$130/210; paiWs)
Despite the faux veneer, the Costa Verde has top-notch facilities including a Japanese restaurant, a gym, colorful gardens and a lagoon you cross to get to the beach. Run by hotel group Gaviota, the atmosphere is ticky-tacky but far more subdued than the hotels in Guardalavaca proper.
Playa Esmeralda
oParadisus Río de OroRESORT$$$
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; %24-43-00-90; www.melia.com; Playa Esmeralda; all-inclusive s/d CUC$431/615, day pass CUC$115; paiWs)
You may need a wallet of gold to access the river of gold resort by Meliá. Oft touted as Cuba's best resort, this 356-room resort shines with five-star pedigree. There's cliffside massage, a Japanese restaurant floating on a koi pond, and garden villas with private pools. Palm groves and thick foliage keep the property protected and private. Adults only.
While it is promoted as an ecoresort, its only sustainable distinction is keeping the property forested. High rollers should bid for the newer luxury area within the compound, featuring only several hundred rooms.
Sol Río Luna Mares ResortRESORT$$$
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; %24-43-00-30; Playa Esmeralda; all-inclusive s/d CUC$182/280; paiWs)
This two-in-one hotel is an amalgamation of two resorts. Without a required reservation, its presentation is a bit stale. There's nearly 500 large rooms featuring a few extras such as coffee machines. Its main advantages over Guardalavaca are the superior food at the on-site French and Italian restaurants and the truly sublime beach, with beach toys included in the price.
7Shopping
Centro Comercial Playa PesqueroMALL
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MAP
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; Playa Pesquero entry; h9am-11pm Sun-Thu, 24hr Fri & Sat)
A new mall with fast food, money exchange and shops.
8Getting There & Away
The four resorts of Playa Pesquero are accessible from the main Holguín–Guardalavaca road via a spur road 12km west of Guardalavaca proper. Playa Esmeralda and its two resorts lie at the end of a short spur road 4km west of Guardalavaca. Hotels rent mopeds and bicycles.
A shuttle bus (CUC$5) run by Transtur links Playa Pesquero with Playa Esmeralda and Guardalavaca. Departures and returns are spaced two hours apart. There's also a trolley making the rounds of hotel grounds and Guardalavaca.
Taxis (to Guardalavaca CUC$10), including classic cars and horse carriages, wait outside the resorts.
Guardalavaca
Guardalavaca is a string of megaresorts draped along a succession of idyllic beaches backed by verdant hills, 54km northeast of Holguín. Before the rows of sunloungers and poolside bingo, Columbus described this stretch of coast as the most beautiful place he ever laid eyes on.
There are also sheltered turquoise coral reefs teeming with aquatic action. More spread out than Varadero and less isolated than Cayo Coco, it has enduring popularity. There’s also long been beach access for Cubans, which helps provide a more local atmosphere.
In the early 20th century, this region was a rural village and important cattle-rearing area (Guardalavaca means 'shelter the cow'). The tourism boom moved into first gear in the late 1970s when local holguiñero Fidel Castro inaugurated Guardalavaca's first resort – the sprawling Atlántico – with a quick dip in the hotel pool. The local economy hasn't looked back since.
Guardalavaca
1Sights
4Sleeping
6Drinking & Nightlife
7Shopping
1Sights
The resort area is split into three separate enclaves: Playa Pesquero, Playa Esmeralda and, 4km to the east, Guardalavaca proper, the original hotel strip that is already starting to peel around the edges.
Museo Chorro de MaitaMUSEUM
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; %24-43-02-01; CUC$2; h9am-5pm Tue-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun)
S
This archaeological-site-based museum protects the remains of an excavated Indian village and cemetery, including the well-preserved remains of 62 human skeletons and the bones of a barkless dog. The village dates from the early 16th century and is one of nearly 100 archaeological sites in the area. New evidence suggests indigenous peoples were living here many decades after Columbus' arrival.
Across from the museum is a reconstructed Aldea Taína (Taíno village;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-43-02-01; CUC$5; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun; c) that features life-sized models of native dwellings in a replicated indigenous village. Native dance rituals are staged here and there's also a restaurant.
2Activities
You can arrange horseback riding in Playa Esmeralda or privately: CUC$10 per hour is the going rate.
You can rent mopeds at all the hotels for up to CUC$27 per day. Some all-inclusive resorts include bicycle use, but the bikes are fairly basic (no gears). The road between Guardalavaca and Playa Esmeralda, and on to Playa Pesquero, is flat and quiet and makes an excellent day excursion. For a bit more sweat you can make it to Banes and back (66km round-trip).
Diving
Guardalavaca has some excellent diving (better than Varadero and up there with Cayo Coco). The reef is 200m out and there are 32 dive sites, most of which are accessed by boat. Highlights include caves, wrecks, walls and La Corona, a giant coral formation said to resemble a crown.
Eagle Ray Marlin Dive CenterDIVING
(Cubanacán Náutica;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-43-03-16; dives from CUC$45; h8:30am-4:30pm Mon-Sat)
Guardalavaca beach's one dive center abuts the sand about 300m west of the Club Amigo Atlántico–Guardalavaca. There are open-water certification courses for CUC$365 and two-hour Discover courses for CUC$70. Immersions start at CUC$45, with discounts for multiple dives. They do not offer snorkel tours.
Kitesurfing
Luís RiveronKITESURFING
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MAP
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; %53-78-48-57; luiskitesurf@nauta.cu; kitesurfing lessons per hour CUC$50, rental per hour CUC$30)
Cuba's newest sport has sprouted a private Guardalavaca operator that offers private lessons (discounts for more participants) and board rental. His perch is on the beach of Brisas Guardalavaca.
Boat Trips
Many water-based excursions leave from the Marina Internacional Puerto de Vita (Marina Gaviota;
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-43-04-75) and can be booked through the hotels. There's another newer, but smaller marina at Boca de Samá (
GOOGLE MAP
), 9km east of Guardalavaca and run by Cubanacán.
Aside from the ubiquitous sunset cruise possibilities (CUC$60), you can organize deep-sea fishing (up to six people CUC$360), and occasional catamaran trips across Bahía de Vita with snorkeling and open bar.
4Sleeping
Guardalavaca now offers private rooms, so you are not obliged to shell out for the all-inclusives. There are dozens of apartments to rent in Guardalavaca village opposite the entrance to the all-inclusive zone. A new five-star hotel – the Albatros – is in the process of being built.
oVilla BelyCASA PARTICULAR$
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MAP
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; %52-61-41-92; www.villabely.orgfree.com; entrance to Guardalavaca; r CUC$25-30; pa)
The resort alternative, this casa has a top-floor apartment that's bigger and better than your average hotel room. It works for small families, with a tiny balcony and a lovely sleeping area raised on a dais. There are two smaller rooms below. It's just opposite the last highway exit from the all-inclusive zone.
Also offers snorkeling equipment and arranges guided horseback riding.
Brisas GuardalavacaRESORT$$$
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MAP
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; %24-43-02-18; Playa Guardalavaca; all-inclusive s/d CUC$110/160; paiWs)
Attracting Canadians and trans-Atlantic snowbirds, this 437-room resort is a package-tour paradise stirring memories of 1970s British holiday camps. Bonuses are huge rooms, floodlit tennis courts and general lack of pretension. The setup is a bit reminiscent of a retirement home, with the kitsch never far from the surface, but it's quieter than nearby offerings and has a decent beach.
Club Amigo Atlántico – GuardalavacaRESORT$$$
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MAP
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; %24-43-01-21; Playa Guardalavaca; all-inclusive s/d CUC$90/140; paiWs)
As cheap getaways go, this is Guardalavaca's bargain offering, but it's not for particular guests. Cleanliness is not always paramount in this 600-room village, a bog-standard mishmash of villas, bungalows and standard rooms. An extensive kids activities program makes it popular with families. There's more rocky inlets here than further down the beach and inland rooms are quieter.
This hard-to-fathom resort fused the former Guardalavaca and Atlántico hotels. The latter was Guardalavaca's oldest resort, completed in 1976 and christened by Fidel Castro with a swim in the pool.
5Eating
There are a handful of options outside of the all-inclusive resorts, mainly in Guardalavaca itself.
oEl AnclaSEAFOOD$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-43-03-81; meals CUC$4-20; hnoon-9:30pm)
On a rocky promontory of land at the far western end of Guardalavaca beach, this glass-walled restaurant is a fine spot to spend a few hours dining and sea gazing. The 180-degree view is outrageous. Somehow it didn't get blown away by Hurricane Ike in 2008. Come here for excellent lobster served on white linens and decent service.
El UveroCUBAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %52-39-35-71; Carretera Guardalavaca-Banes; meals $10-18; hnoon-11pm)
Four kilometers and a short taxi ride east of Guardalavaca's main resort strip, this modest-looking local house in the village of Cuatro Caminos is well worth the small effort to get here. Pride of the menu is the tres hermanos (three brothers) consisting of prawns, lobster and white fish.
The place is guarded by an uvero (sea grape tree) as the name implies.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Bar PirataBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Playa Guardalavaca; h9am-9pm)
Right on the sand at Guardalavaca's liveliest strip of beach, Pirata is your standard beach shack with beer, music and enough ingredients to muster up a sand-free sandwich lunch. It's accessed via the flea market just west of Club Amigo Atlántico.
7Shopping
BoulevardGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; entrance Playa Guardalavaca; h7am-5pm)
This touristy, open-air handicraft market caters to resort clients from the surrounding area. It flogs crafts, postcards, cheap clothing and Che Guevara – there's nothing much outside the knickknack box.
8Information
Emergencies
AsisturTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-43-01-48; Centro Comercial; h8:30am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)
Provides insurance, medical assistance, repatriation and financial help for traveler emergencies.
Medical Services
The Clinica Internacional is a 24-hour pharmacy. Resorts have drugstores and offer medical services.
Money
Euros are accepted in all the Guardalavaca, Playa Esmeralda and Pesquero resorts. Additionally, all the big hotels have money-changing facilities.
Banco Financiero InternacionalBANK
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-43-02-17; Centro Comercial los Flamboyanes; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri)
In the shopping complex just west of Club Amigo Atlántico – Guardalavaca. Has no ATM.
Tourist Information
Infotur is adding a desk at the Centro Comercial los Flamboyantes in the Club Amigo complex. Resorts have tour desks offering information.
8Getting There & Away
Transtur (%24-43-04-90; comercialhlg@transtur.cu; round-trip CUC$15) runs a tourist bus from Guardalavaca to Holguín via Playa Esmeralda and Playa Pesquero once a day.
You can also take a taxi from Guardalavaca to Holguín (one way CUC$20). For radio taxis, call Cubataxi (%24-43-01-39) or Transgaviota (%24-43-49-66). Shared colectivos or maquinas – often classic cars – run from Guardalavaca village to Holguín for CUC$5.
8Getting Around
A Transtur shuttle bus (day pass CUC$5) in Guardalavaca links the three beach areas and the Aldea Taína. Theoretically it runs three times a day in either direction, but check at your hotel to see if there are any glitches. Drop-offs include Parque Rocazul, Playa Pesquero, Playa Costa Verde, Playa Esmeralda hotels, Club Amigo Atlántico – Guardalavaca and the Aldea Taína.
Coches de caballo (horse carriages) run between Playas Esmeralda and Guardalavaca, or you can rent a moped (per day CUC$25) or bicycle (free at all-inclusives) at the resorts. You can also taxi to Playa Esmeralda or Playa Pesqueros (CUC$10).
For car rental, try Cubacar (
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-43-03-89; Club Amigo Atlántico – Guardalavaca). A Servi-Cupet gas station (
GOOGLE MAP
; h24hr) is situated between Guardalavaca and Playa Esmeralda.
Banes
Pop 81,300
Former sugar town, Banes is the site of one of Cuba's oddest historical moments. Cuban president Fulgencio Batista was born here in 1901. Some 47 years later, Fidel Castro and Birta Díaz Balart tied the knot in the local clapboard church of Nuestra Señora de la Caridad. Generous, and surely unsuspecting the groom would one day overthrow him, Batista gave the couple a honeymoon present of US$500.
Founded in 1887, this effervescent company town was a virtual fiefdom of the US-run United Fruit Company until the 1950s. Many of the old American company houses still remain. These days, the sun-streaked streets and squares feature cigar-smoking cronies slamming dominoes and mums carrying meter-long loaves of bread; in short, everything Cuban that is missing from the all-inclusive resorts.
Thanks to its Taíno museum and the various indigenous sites nestled in the surrounding countryside, Banes is known as the archaeological capital of Cuba.
1Sights
If you're coming from the resorts, Banes' biggest attraction may be enjoying the street life provided by a stroll through town. Don't miss the fine old company houses that once provided homes for the fat cats of United Fruit. If you're fit and adventurous, getting here from Guardalavaca by bicycle is a rare treat through undulating, bucolic terrain.
oMuseo Indocubano BaniMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; General Marrero No 305; CUC$1; h9am-5pm Tue-Sat, 8am-noon Sun)
This museum's small but rich collection of indigenous artifacts is one of the best on the island. Don't miss the tiny golden fertility idol unearthed near Banes (one of only 20 gold artifacts ever found in Cuba). Excellent guides will enthusiastically show you round. La Plaza Aborigen outside has replicas of local cave paintings.
The museum's resident expert, Luis Quiñones García (%24-80-26-91; luisq1962@nauta.cu; tours CUC$2), will fill you in on every facet of indigenous culture and local archaeology. He also offers tours of the town.
Playa de MoralesBEACH
( GOOGLE MAP )
One day in the not-too-distant future (after its been Cancun-ized), we'll all wax nostalgic about this precious strip of sand situated 13km east of Banes along the paved continuation of Tráfico. For the time being enjoy this fishing village, whiling away an afternoon dining with locals and watching the men mend their nets. A few kilometers to the north is the even quieter Playa Puerto Rico.
Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la CaridadCHURCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Parque Martí)
On October 12, 1948, Fidel Castro Ruz and Birta Díaz Balart were married in this unusual art deco church on Parque Martí in the center of Banes. After their divorce in 1954, Birta remarried and moved to Spain. Through their only child, Fidelito, Fidel has several grandchildren.
4Sleeping
There are no hotels in the town proper, but Banes has some superfriendly private renters.
Villa LaoCASA PARTICULAR$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-80-30-49; Bayamo No 78, btwn José M Heredia & Augo Blanco; r CUC$25; a)
Shimmering clean, professionally run house with two rooms; grab the upstairs one with its kitchen and plant-laden terrace if possible. It's got the front porch rocker thing going on, too, overlooking the central park.
Villa GilmaCASA PARTICULAR$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-80-22-04; Calle H No 15266, btwn Veguitas & Francisco Franco; r CUC$25; a)
This classic colonial abode stands guard at the entrance to the town center and has one huge room (those ceilings must be 7m high) with private bath and fridge.
Casa 'Las Delicias'CASA PARTICULAR$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-80-29-05; Augo Blanca No 1107, btwn Bruno Merino & Bayamo; r CUC$25; a)
One spick-and-span room, a private entrance, friendly owners and decent food in the downstairs private restaurant – what more could you ask from tranquil Banes?
5Eating
Restaurante Don CarlosCUBAN$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-80-21-76; Veguitas No 1702, cnr Calle H; meals CUC$3-8; hnoon-10pm)
Salt-of-the-earth, meet-the-locals private restaurant where you can discover the other side of Cuba over some pretty decent seafood. Not 30 minutes from Guardalavaca's gigantic resorts.
Restaurant el LatinoCARIBBEAN$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; General Marrero No 710; mains CUC$5-8; h11am-11pm)
A long-standing Banes favorite, this state-run place has all the usual Creole dishes delivered with a little extra flair and charm. Service is good and the accompanying musicians unusually talented and discreet.
3Entertainment
Cafe CantanteLIVE MUSIC
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-80-46-58; General Marrero No 320)
This gregarious, music-filled patio is the top spot in Banes, with honking municipal band rehearsals, discos, son septets and Zen-inducing jazz jams. It's colloquially known as the Casa de la Trova.
8Getting There & Away
From the bus station (cnr Tráfico & Los Ángeles), there are two daily buses (MN$1) to Holguín (72km). There are no timetables; check the chalkboards. Trucks (MN$5) leave Banes for Holguín more frequently.
A taxi from Guardalavaca (33km) will cost around CUC$25 one way. Or tackle it with a moped (easy) or bicycle (not so easy) in a fantastic DIY day trip from Guardalavaca.
CUBA'S ARCHAEOLOGICAL CAPITAL
Cuba's pre-Columbian history can be traced back over 8000 years, yet it rarely receives more than a passing mention in contemporary history books. Those interested in padding out the details should come to Holguín Province where the region around Banes has the highest concentration of pre-Columbian archaeological sites in the country.
Most archaeological remains unearthed so far in Cuba date from around 1050 to the early 1500s. The Taínos were the third wave of immigrants to reach the isles, in the footsteps of the less sophisticated Guanahatabeys and Siboneys with whom they ultimately coexisted. Primarily peace-loving, they were skilled farmers, weavers, ceramicists and boat-builders, and their complex society exhibited an organized system of participatory government that was overseen by a series of local caciques (chiefs).
Sixty percent of the crops still grown in Cuba today were pioneered by Taíno farmers, who planted cotton to use in hammocks, fishing nets and bags. Adults practiced a form of artificial cranial deformation by flattening the soft skulls of their young children, and groups lived together in villages characterized by their thatched bohios (living huts) and bateys (communal 'plazas'). A reconstructed Taíno village can be seen at the Aldea Taína near Guardalavaca. Next door in Chorro de Maita, Cuba’s most extensive archaeological site, some of the exhumed skeletons exhibit cranial deformation.
Columbus described the Taíno with terms such as 'gentle,' 'sweet,' 'always laughing' and 'without knowledge of what is evil,' which makes the genocide that he inadvertently unleashed even more horrendous. Estimates vary wildly as to Cuba's indigenous population pre-Columbus, though 100,000 is a good consensus figure. Within 30 years, 90% of the Taínos had been wiped out.
As Taíno villages were built of wood and mud they left no great towns or temples. Instead, the most important and emblematic artifacts unearthed are of cemis or idols, small figurines depicting Taíno deities. Cemis were cult objects that represented social status, political power or fertility.
The hacha del Holguín, a 600-year-old god-like figure made of peridotite rock, is on display in Holguín’s Museo de Historia Provincial. The ídolo del oro, a rare 10-carat gold fertility symbol from the 13th century or earlier, is in Banes' Museo Indocubano Bani. The oldest cemi found to date in Cuba was discovered near Maisí in Guantánamo Province in the 1910s. Called the Ídolo de Tabaco, it dates from the 10th century and is made of Cuban hardwood. It is currently on display at the Museo Antropológico Montané in Havana University.
Sierra del Cristal
Cuba's own 'Little Switzerland' is a rugged amalgam of the Sierra del Cristal and the Altiplanicie de Nipe, with two important national parks. Parque Nacional Sierra Cristal, Cuba's oldest, was founded in 1930 and harbors 1213m Pico de Cristal, the province's highest summit. Of more interest to travelers, the piney 53-sq-km Parque Nacional la Mensura, 30km south of Mayarí, protects the island's highest waterfall. Notable for its cool alpine microclimate and 100 or more species of endemic plants, La Mensura offers hiking and horseback riding and accommodation in a Gaviota-run ecolodge. It also hosts a mountain research center run by Academia de Ciencias de Cuba.
Flanking the Sierra del Cristal, the landscape inspired Buena Vista Social Club's hit 'Chan Chan'. Now frequented by aficionados of lead singer Compay Segundo, the route is often dubbed Ruta de Chan Chan.
1Sights
oSalto del GuayaboWATERFALL
( GOOGLE MAP ; entry CUC$5)
At just over 100m in height, Guayabo (15km from the Villa Pinares del Mayarí) is considered the highest waterfall in Cuba. There's a spectacular overlook and the guided 1.2km hike to its base through fecund tropical forest includes swimming in a natural pool.
Salto de CapiroWATERFALL
( GOOGLE MAP )
A short 2km trail from Villa Pinares del Mayarí brings you to this hidden waterfall in lush forest.
2Activities
Most activities can be organized at Villa Pinares del Mayarí or via 4WD excursions from Guardalavaca's or Santiago de Cuba's hotels.
Sendero la SabinaHIKING
( GOOGLE MAP ; entry CUC$3)
A short interpretive trail at the Centro Investigaciones para la Montaña, located 1km from Villa Pinares del Mayarí. Check out the vegetation of eight different ecosystems, including a 150-year-old tree – the 'Ocuje Colorado' – and rare orchids.
Hacienda la MensuraHORSEBACK RIDING
( GOOGLE MAP )
Eight kilometers from Villa Pinares del Mayarí is this breeding center for exotic animals such as antelope. Horseback riding can be arranged here.
4Sleeping
oVilla Pinares del MayaríHOTEL$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-45-56-28; s/d CUC$25/35; pas)S
Ensconced in one of Cuba's largest pine forests, Pinares del Mayarí stands between the Altiplanicie de Nipe and Sierra del Cristal at 600m. Part chalet resort, part mountain retreat, this isolated alpine-style rural hideaway features two- and three-bedroom cabins with hot showers and comfortable beds. There's a large restaurant (mains CUC$4 to CUC$9), bar, sports court, gym and sublime pool.
El Cupey, a small natural lake, sits 300m away. It's great for an early morning dip. The compound, 30km south of Mayarí on a rough dirt road, is run by Gaviota.
8Getting There & Away
The only way to get to Villa Pinares del Mayarí and Parque Nacional la Mensura outside an organized tour is via car, taxi (from Holguín CUC$50) or bicycle (if you're adventurous and it's not a Cuban one).
The access road is mostly a rough collection of holes with the odd bit of asphalt thrown in, but it's passable in a hire car if driven with care. You'll need at least 1½ hours to cover the 30km.
Cayo Saetía
East of Mayarí the road becomes increasingly potholed and the dusty rural surroundings are progressively more remote. The culmination of this rustic drive is lovely Cayo Saetía, a small, flat, wooded island in the Bahía de Nipe that's connected to the mainland by a small bridge. During the 1970s and '80s this was a favored hunting ground for communist apparatchiks who enjoyed spraying lead into the local wildlife. Now Cayo Saetía is a protected wildlife park with 19 species of exotic animals, including camels, zebras, antelopes, ostriches and deer.
Bisected by grassy meadows and adorned by hidden coves and beaches, it's the closet Cuba gets to an African wildlife reserve. However, it's also still run by the military and not overly friendly to visitors – particularly those just out to explore. The gorgeous beach is often commandeered by organized catamaran groups from Guardalavaca.
WORTH A TRIP
FIDEL'S CHILDHOOD HOME
Fidel Castro Ruz was born on August 13, 1926, at the Finca las Manacas near the village of Birán, south of Cueto. The sprawling ranch, bought by Fidel's father Ángel in 1915, includes its own workers village (a cluster of small thatched huts for the mainly Haitian laborers), a cockfighting ring, butcher's shop, post office, store and telegraph. The several large, yellow wooden houses surrounded by lush cedars housed the Castro family.
The farm opened as Museo Conjunto Histórico de Birán (
GOOGLE MAP
; admission/camera/video CUC$10/10/10; h9am-3:30pm Tue-Sat, 9am-noon Sun) in 2002, its unassuming name intending to downplay any Castro 'personality cult.' This gaggle of attractive wooden buildings on expansive grounds constitutes a pueblito (small town) and makes a fascinating excursion. It appears as a backwater today, but once sat on the camino real, Cuba's main east–west road in colonial times. Tours are thorough and very worthwhile.
Around the various houses, you can see more than a hundred photos, assorted clothes, Fidel's childhood bed and his father's 1918 Ford motorcar. Perhaps most interesting is the schoolhouse where Fidel first studied before moving on to Santiago as an outstanding pupil. Fidel sat in the middle of the front row. There are pictures of young Fidel and Raúl and Fidel's birth certificate, made out in the name of Fidel Casano Castro Ruz.
A cemetery contains the grave of Fidel and Raúl's father, Ángel, and siblings. The site illustrates, if nothing else, the extent of the inheritance that this hot-headed ex-lawyer gave up when he absconded to the Sierra Maestra for two years, surviving on a diet of crushed crabs and raw horse meat. Finca Las Manacas was the first property to be appropriated by the government after the revolution.
4Sleeping
Villa Cayo SaetíaRESORT$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %24-51-69-00; s/d incl breakfast CUC$43/62; a)
This rustic cay resort, on a 42-sq-km island at the entrance to the Bahía de Nipe, is small, remote and more upmarket than the price suggests. The 12 rooms are split into rustic and standard cabañas with a minimal price differential. You'll feel as if you're 1000 miles from anywhere.
The in-house restaurant (mains CUC$5 to CUC$12), La Güira sits decked out Hemingway-style with hunting trophies mounted on the wall like gory art. It's fully in tune with the exotic meats, such as antelope, on the menu.
8Getting There & Away
Road conditions are poor in the final 20km approaching the key (separated by a bridge). Those arriving by car hit a control post 15km off the main road at the bridge; every visitor must pay CUC$7 here for access. It's another 8km along a rough, unpaved road to the resort.
If it hasn't been raining, a rental car will make it with care. Don't attempt the drive in rain as the clay surface becomes impossibly slippery. Be warned that without reservations you will be in for a world of harassment by the guards.
From Guardalavaca there are catamaran day tours (per person CUC$120), arranged through travel agencies and resorts.
8Getting Around
There are three ways to explore Cayo Saetía, aside from the obvious two-legged sorties from the villa itself. A one-hour, 4WD safari costs CUC$9 per person, while there are also excursions by horse and boat, arranged directly through the resort.