Granma Province
Bayamo
Gran Parque Nacional Sierra Maestra
Manzanillo
Niquero
Parque Nacional Desembarco del Granma
Marea del Portillo
Granma Province
%23 / Pop 836,000
Why Go?
Few parts of the world get named after yachts, which helps explain why in Granma (christened for the boat that delivered Fidel Castro and his bedraggled revolutionaries ashore to kick-start a guerrilla war in 1956) Cuba's viva la Revolución spirit burns most fiercely. This is the land where José Martí died and where Granma native Carlos Manuel de Céspedes freed his slaves and formally declared Cuban independence for the first time in 1868.
The alluringly isolated countryside helped the revolutionary cause. Road-scarce Granma is one of Cuba's remotest regions, with lofty tropical mountains dense enough to harbor fugitive Fidel Castro for over two years in the 1950s.
Its isolation has bred a special brand of Cuban identity. Granma's settlements are esoteric places enlivened with weekly street parties (with outdoor barbecues and archaic hand-operated street organs), and provincial capital Bayamo is among the most tranquil and cleanest places in the archipelago.
When to Go
APockets of Granma already have a balmy climate, but from January to February the beach area of Marea del Portillo becomes the warmest place in Cuba.
ATo see provincial traditions at their finest, don't miss Bayamo's biggest celebration, the Incendio de Bayamo on January 12.
AIn the far wetter Sierra Maestra mountains, March and April are the driest times for hiking the trails, with bearable nighttime temperatures.
ADecember 2 is the anniversary of the historic Granma landing, which put the Revolution in motion; it's celebrated with festivities and a ceremony at Las Coloradas.
Granma Province Highlights
1 Marea del Portillo Enjoying one of Cuba's balmiest microclimates in this secluded beach resort.
2 Comandancia de la Plata Trekking up to Fidel's wartime headquarters in Gran Parque Nacional Sierra Maestra.
3 Parque Nacional Desembarco del Granma Exploring marine terraces and archaeological remains.
4 Santo Domingo Getting a dose of fresh mountain air at the bucolic entrance to Gran Parque Nacional Sierra Maestra with horseback riding through the hills or a stroll to a swimming hole.
5 Fiesta de la Cubanía Immersing yourself in the inimitable Bayamo party spirit with pork roast, street organs and a chess game.
6 Museo Histórico la Demajagua Visiting the site where the Cubans uttered their first cry of independence.
History
Stone petroglyphs and remnants of Taíno pottery unearthed in Parque Nacional Desembarco del Granma suggest the existence of native cultures in the Granma region long before the Spanish arrived.
Columbus, during his second voyage, was the first European to explore the area, taking shelter from a storm in the Golfo de Guacanayabo. All other early development schemes came to nothing, and by the 17th century Granma's untamed coast had become the preserve of pirates and corsairs.
Granma's real nemesis didn't come until October 10, 1868, when sugar-plantation owner Carlos Manuel de Céspedes called for the abolition of slavery from his Demajagua sugar mill near Manzanillo, freed his own slaves by example and incited the First War of Independence.
Drama unfolded again in 1895 when the founder of the Cuban Revolutionary Party, José Martí, was killed in Dos Ríos just a month and a half after landing with Máximo Gómez off the coast of Guantánamo to ignite the Spanish-Cuban-American War.
Then on December 2, 1956, Fidel Castro and 81 rebel soldiers disembarked from the yacht Granma off the province's coast at Playa las Coloradas (ironically, the boat that literally launched the Revolution – and later gave the province its present name – was purchased from an American, who had named it in honor of his grandmother). Routed by Batista's troops shortly after landing in a sugarcane field at Alegría del Pío, 15 or so survivors managed to escape into the Sierra Maestra, establishing headquarters at Comandancia de la Plata. From there they coordinated the armed struggle, broadcasting their progress and consolidating their support among sympathizers nationwide. After two years of harsh conditions and unprecedented beard growth, the forces of the M-26-7 (July 26 Movement) triumphed in 1959.
Bayamo
Pop 157,400
Elegant and old, this relatively hush city spells oasis to the traveler weary of confrontation. Predating both Havana and Santiago, it has been cast for time immemorial as the city that kick-started Cuban independence. Yet self-important it isn't. The ciudad de los coches (city of horsecarts) is an easygoing, slow-paced, trapped-in-time place, where you're more likely to be quoted literature than sold trinkets. Cuba's balmiest provincial capital, it resounds to the clip-clop of hooves; nearly half the population use horses for daily travel.
Bayamo has played a sacrificial role in Cuba's convoluted historical development. 'Como España quemó a Sagunto, así Cuba quemó a Bayamo,' (As the Spanish burnt Sagunto, the Cubans burnt Bayamo) wrote José Martí in the 1890s. While an 1869 arson blaze destroyed many of the city's classic colonial buildings, there's still plenty left. Neither did it undermine Bayamo's intransigent spirit or its long-standing traditions.
1Sights
In Town
oPlaza de la RevoluciónSQUARE
(Parque Céspedes; MAP GOOGLE MAP )
One of Cuba's leafiest squares, Bayamo's central meeting point is surrounded by pedestrian-only streets, making it a rare and peaceful spot. Despite its friendly airs and secondary role as the city's best outdoor music venue (orchestras regularly play here), the square is loaded with historical significance.
In 1868 Céspedes proclaimed Cuba's independence for the first time in front of the columned Ayuntamiento (City Hall; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; General García s/n). The square is surrounded by grand monuments and big trees loaded with bird life at dusk. Facing each other in the center are a bronze statue of Carlos Manuel de Céspedes, hero of the First War of Independence, and a marble bust of Perucho Figueredo, with the lyrics of the Cuban national anthem (which he wrote), carved upon it.
oCasa Natal de Carlos Manuel de CéspedesMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Maceo No 57; CUC$1; 
h9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 9am-5pm & 8-10pm Sat, 10am-1:30pm Sun)
Birthplace of the 'father of the motherland,' this museum is where Céspedes was born (on April 18, 1819) and spent his first 12 years. Inside, Céspedes memorabilia is complemented by a collection of period furniture. It's notable architecturally as Bayamo's only remaining two-story colonial house: one of the few buildings to survive the 1869 fire.
Paseo BayamésAREA
(Calle General García; MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Bayamo's main shopping street was pedestrianized in the 1990s and reconfigured with benches and funky artwork. Here you'll find wax museum Museo de Cera (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-54-21; General García No 261; CUC$2; h9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-1pm & 7-10pm Sat, 9am-noon Sun), various public utilities and plenty of Cuban-style commerce, including food stalls at night.
Plaza de la PatriaPLAZA
( GOOGLE MAP ; Av Felino Figueredo)
This square is where Fidel Castro gave his final, rousing public speech in July 2006 before being taken ill and stepping down as president. The monument to the Cuban greats here features Manuel de Céspedes, Antonio Maceo, Máximo Gomez, Perucho Figueredo and, subtly placed left of center, Fidel: it's the only monument he appears on in Cuba.
It's six blocks northeast of the bus station.
Parque ChapuzónPARK
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Av Amado Estevez; 
c)
Greenery beckons not a kilometer from Bayamo's center where the Bayamo River has carved a lush belt through the urban grid. Locals come to this blissful spot to water their horses or have a family barbecue. Footpaths and gazebo-shaped stalls selling food and drink embellish the banks, but never detract from the all-pervading mood of tranquility.
Oficina de ArqueologíaMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-15-91; General García No 252; CUC$1; h9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 9am-noon & 6-10pm Sat, 9am-1pm Sun)
Features Pre-Colombian stone tools and objects such as shells, bones and ceramics.
Catedral de San Salvador de BayamoCHURCH
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-25-14; Jose Joaquin Palma No 130)
There's been a church on this site since 1514. The current edifice dates from 1740 but got devastated in the 1869 fire, so much of what you see results from building work in 1919. One original section surviving the fire is the Capilla de la Dolorosa (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; J Palma s/n; donations accepted; h9am-noon & 3-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) with its gilded wooden altar.
A highlight of the main church is the central arch, which exhibits a mural depicting the blessing of the Cuban flag in front of the revolutionary army on October 20, 1868. Outside, Plaza del Himno Nacional is where the Cuban national anthem, 'La Bayamesa,' was sung for the first time in 1868.
Museo ProvincialMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-41-25; Maceo No 55; CUC$5; h8am-5pm Tue-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, 9am-1pm Sun)
Directly next door to Céspedes' ex-home, this provincial museum completes Bayamo's historical trajectory with a yellowing city document dating from 1567 and a rare photo of Bayamo immediately after the fire.
Torre de San Juan EvangelistaRUINS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr José Martí & Amado Estévez)
A church dating from Bayamo's earliest years stood at this busy intersection until it was destroyed in the great fire of 1869. Later, the church's tower served as the entrance to the first cemetery in Cuba, closed in 1919. The cemetery was demolished in 1940 but the tower survived.
A monument to local poet José Joaquín Palma (1844–1911) stands in the park diagonally across the street from the tower, and beside the tower is a bronze statue of Francisco Vicente Aguilera (1821–77), who led the independence struggle in Bayamo.
Ventana de Luz VázquezLANDMARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Céspedes, btwn Figueredo & Luz Vázquez)
A forerunner of the national anthem, cowritten by Céspedes (and, confusingly, also called 'La Bayamesa') was first sung from here on March 27, 1851. A memorial plaque has been emblazoned onto the wall next to the wood-barred colonial window.
Casa de Estrada PalmaCULTURAL CENTER
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Céspedes No 158)
Cuba's first postindependence president, Tomás Estrada Palma, was born here in 1835. One-time friend of José Martí, Estrada Palma was disgraced post-Revolution for his perceived complicity with the US over the Platt Amendment. His birth house is now the seat of Uneac (Unión Nacional de Escritores y Artistas de Cuba; National Union of Cuban Writers and Artists).
You'll find little about the famous former occupant inside, but the courtyard contains a palm (dating from 1837) that would (probably) have come into contact with Palma.
Museo Ñico LópezMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-31-81; Abihail González; CUC$1; h9am-noon & 1:30-5:30pm Tue-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun)
This museum is in the former officers' club of the Carlos Manuel de Céspedes military barracks, 1km southeast of Parque Céspedes. On July 26, 1953, this garrison was attacked by 25 revolutionaries led by Ñico López in tandem with the assault on Moncada Barracks in Santiago de Cuba in order to prevent reinforcements from being sent.
López escaped to Guatemala and was the first Cuban to befriend Ernesto 'Che' Guevara, but was killed shortly after the Granma landed in 1956.
Fabrica de los CochesFACTORY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-41-16-44; Prolongacion General García No 530; CUC$1 donation; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri & every 2nd Sat)
It's worth the jaunt to observe the goings-on at Cuba's only handcrafted coche (horse cart) production line. Most horse carts you'll see in Cuba are metal, but these are fashioned in wood and take far longer (up to three months per cart) to produce.
You'll see horse carts in various stages of completion, meet the workers and be able to buy Bayamo's best souvenir: miniature model horse carts with incredible attention to detail. The big ones cost about 8000 pesos (CUC$325) and don't fit quite so well into a suitcase.
Outside Town
Jardín Botánico de CupaynicuGARDENS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Carretera de Guisa, Km 10; CUC$2; h8am-4:30pm Tue-Sun)
For a floral appreciation of Bayamo's evergreen hinterland, head to this botanic garden about 16km outside the city off the Guisa road. It's on very few itineraries, so you can have the serene, serendipitous 104 hectares more or less to yourself. There are 74 types of palms, scores of cacti, blooming orchids and sections for endangered and medicinal plants.
The guided tour (Spanish only) gains you access to greenhouses, notable for the showy ornamentals. To get here, take the road to Santiago de Cuba for 6km and turn left at the signposted junction for Guisa. After 10km you'll see the botanic garden sign on the right. From Bayamo, trucks (MN$10) heading in this direction leave from the intermunicipal bus station in front of the train station.
2Activities
Academia de AjedrezCHESS SCHOOL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; José A Saco No 63, btwn General García & Céspedes; h9am-noon, 2pm-3:30pm & 8-10pm Mon-Fri)
Catering to adorable students in school uniforms, the Academia de Ajedrez is the place to go to improve your pawn-king-four technique. Pictures of Cuban heroes emblazoned onto the walls of this cerebral institution offer plenty of inspiration.
TTours
Anley Rosales BenitezTOURS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %52-92-22-09; www.bayamotravelagent.com; Carretera Central No 478)
Anley coordinates trips to the Sierra Maestra, which can be difficult to find transport for on your own. Since he doesn't make all trips personally, confirm bilingual guide services ahead. The highlight tour takes in the revolutionary sites of the 1956–58 years when the rebels were holed up hereabouts, such as the village where Fidel famously played baseball with locals.
Services include everything from day trips to the Jardín Botánico Cupaynicu to Bayamo airport pick-up and all-inclusive Comandancia de la Plata excursions (two people CUC$115).
zFestivals & Events
Incendio de BayamoCULTURAL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; hJan 12)
The biggest annual event is the Incendio de Bayamo, on January 12, remembering the city's 1869 burning with live music and theatrical performances in Parque Céspedes, and culminating in fireworks launched from nearby buildings.
AND THEN THERE WERE THREE...
It seemed like an ignominious defeat. Three days after landing in a crippled leisure yacht on Cuba's southeastern coast, Castro's expeditionary force of 82 soldiers had been decimated by Batista's superior army. Some of the rebels had fled, others had been captured and killed. Escaping from the ambush, Castro found himself cowering in a sugarcane field along with two ragged companions: his 'bodyguard,' Universo Sánchez, and diminutive Havana doctor, Faustino Pérez. 'There was a moment when I was commander-in-chief of myself and two others,' said the man who would one day go on to overthrow the Cuban government, thwart a US-sponsored invasion, incite a nuclear standoff and become one of the most enduring political figures of the 20th century.
Hunted by ground troops and bombed from the air by military planes, the trio lay trapped in the cane field for four days and three nights. The hapless Pérez had inadvertently discarded his weapon; Sánchez, meanwhile, had lost his shoes. Wracked by fatigue and plagued by hunger, Fidel continued to do what he always did best. He whispered incessantly to his beleaguered colleagues – about the Revolution, about the philosophies of José Martí. Buoyantly he pontificated about how 'all the glory of the world would fit inside a grain of maize.' Sánchez, not unwisely, concluded that his delirious leader had gone crazy and that their grisly fate was sealed – it was just a matter of time.
At night, Fidel – determined not to be caught alive – slept with his rifle cocked against his throat, the safety catch released. One squeeze of the finger and it would have been over. No Cuban Revolution, no Bay of Pigs, no Cuban Missile Crisis.
Fatefully, the moment didn't arrive. With the army concluding that the rebels had been wiped out, the search was called off. Choosing their moment, Fidel and his two companions crept stealthily northeast toward the safety of the Sierra Maestra, sucking on stalks of sugarcane for nutrition.
It was a desperate fight for survival. For a further eight days the rebel army remained a bedraggled trio as the fugitive soldiers dodged army patrols, crawled through sewers and drank their own urine. It wasn't until December 13 that they met up with Guillermo García, a campesino sympathetic to the rebel cause, and a corner was turned.
On December 15 at a safe meeting house, Fidel's brother, Raúl, materialized out of the jungle with three men and four weapons. Castro was ecstatic. Three days later a third exhausted band of eight soldiers – including Che Guevara and Camilo Cienfuegos – turned up, swelling the rebel army to an abject 15.
'We can win this war,' proclaimed an ebullient Fidel to his small band of not-so-merry men. 'We have just begun the fight.'
4Sleeping
Bayamo has a good mix of hotel and private lodgings, with the long-awaited addition of Hotel Telegrafo set to reopen in 2017.
oVilla La PazCASA PARTICULAR$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %52-77-34-59, 23-42-39-49; anyoleg2005@yahoo.es; Coronel J Estrada No 32, btwn William Soler & Av Milanés; r CUC$20-25; 
a
i
W)
Any visitor to Cuba would consider this spotless modern home with attractive renovated rooms great value. Guests have flat-screen TVs, wi-fi and their own separate dining area. While the house is short on outdoor spaces, the indoor ones are extra pleasant, as are the hosts, who speak English and Russian.
Casa OlgaCASA PARTICULAR$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-38-59, mobile 54-95-59-54; olgacr@nauta.cu; Parada No 16, cnr Martí; r CUC$25; aW)
With a balcony gazing out on the plaza, these three 2nd-floor rooms couldn't be more central. Olga is a welcoming host who prepares substantial breakfasts. Open your window and suave sounds from the Casa de la Trova (situated opposite) waft in.
Casa de la AmistadCASA PARTICULAR$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-57-69; gabytellez2003@gmail.com; Pío Rosado No 60, btwn Ramíriez & N López; r CUC$25; 
paiW)
Gabriel and Rosa let out two spacious apartments on the upper floor of their pastel-shaded house. Guests have a private entrance, kitchen, sitting area, bedroom and bathroom. They are fine and helpful hosts who speak excellent English, and there's even wi-fi.
Villa Pupi & Villa AméricaCASA PARTICULAR$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-30-29; yuri21504@gmail.com; Coronel J Estrada No 76-78; r CUC$20-25; a)
This family-run enterprise in two adjacent homes offers three rooms – the better ones flank a spacious 2nd-floor terrace where good local cooking is served (mains CUC$5 to CUC$10). Be warned, reservations are not always respected.
Villa BayamoHOTEL$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-31-02; s/d CUC$58/64; pa
s)
This out-of-town option (it's 3km southwest of the center on the road to Manzanillo) offers a definitive rural feel and a pleasant swimming pool overlooking fields at the back. With well-appointed rooms and a reasonable restaurant.
Hotel Sierra MaestraHOTEL$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-79-70; Carretera Central; s/d CUC$56/64; paWs)
With a ring of the Soviet '70s about it, the Sierra Maestra hardly merits its three stars, although rooms have had some much-needed attention. Three kilometers from the town center, it's OK for an overnighter. Let the mojitos at the bar be your consolation.
oHotel RoyaltonHOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-22-90; Maceo No 53; s/d CUC$120/135; aW)
Bayamo's best hotel has 33 rooms upgraded to boutique standard with power showers and flat-screen TVs; there's also a roof terrace. Downstairs an attractive bar complements the reception area with seats spilling out onto a sidewalk terrace overlooking Parque Céspedes. The on-site restaurant is a good eating option.
5Eating
There's some unique street food in Bayamo, sold from Calle Saco and Parque Céspedes. Otherwise you're dealing with mainly local restaurants with prices in Cuban pesos.
El PolinesioCUBAN$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-24-49; Parada No 125, btwn Pío Rosado & Cisnero; meals CUC$6-8; hnoon-11pm)
This longtime staple debuted in the days when private restaurants could only seat 12 people and serve pork and chicken. Today's menu ventures into seafood with wine sauce and chicken with vegetables.
What hasn't changed is the venue – upstairs in an open-fronted family dining room with five or six tables – and the service. Big smiles all round.
La SevillanaSPANISH$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-14-72; General García, btwn General Lora & Perucho Figueredo; mains CUC$1-4; hnoon-2pm & 6-10pm)
Come and see Cuban chefs attempt Spanish cuisine – paella and garbanzos (chickpeas). This is a new kind of peso restaurant, with a dress code (no shorts), a doorman in a suit, and a reservations policy. Press your trousers, brush up on your Spanish, but don't expect sevillano creativity.
Cuadro Gastronómica de Luz VázquezFAST FOOD$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; off General García, btwn Figueredo & General Lora; dishes from MN$10; hhours vary)
Along this short lane are parked at least a dozen clean-looking food carts selling bayamés street snacks (pay in Cuban pesos). Bank on hot dogs, croquettes, ice cream, sardines and empanadas.
oRestaurante San Salvador de BayamoCARIBBEAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-69-42; Maceo No 107; mains CUC$3-9; hnoon-11pm)
Who isn't in the mood to be serenaded by violins in a splendid colonial place? Thanks to the knowledgeable owner, dishes avoid the obvious to tap into indigenous/bucaneer influences on regional cuisine. Try tortilla with cassava and local cheese or shrimp in garlic sauce – also try the cerveza mambisa, jagua juice fermented in a sugarcane stalk.
There's a cheaper menu in moneda national (MN$; Cuban pesos) or set meals in pesos convertibles.
oMeson La CuchipapaCUBAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %52-39-89-05; lacuchipapa@gmail.com; Parada btw Marmol & Martí; mains CUC$6-10; h11am-midnight)
Real comida Cubana (Cuban food) fashioned on reviving traditions rarely known to visitors. At wooden picnic benches, try cassava bread originally consumed by native Taínos, fragrant bean stews and big portions of regular fare such as smoked pork chops. You can also brave frutanga, a cocktail starring the local firewater sweetened with sugarcane crushed by your own hand on an old handcrank mill.
Restaurante PlazaCUBAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-22-90; Maceo No 53, Hotel Royalton; mains CUC$6-10; h7:30am-10:30pm)
Bayamo's finest hotel (the Royalton) also hosts one of its best restaurants; nothing legendary mind you, but with an excellent setting including the option to sit outside overlooking one of Cuba's most pleasant squares. Food is generously labeled 'international' with a strong meat, rice and beans bias. Service is officious on a bad day, quietly polite on a good one.
La BodegaCARIBBEAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-10-11; Plaza del Himno Nacional No 34; meals CUC$5-15, cover after 9pm CUC$3; h11am-1am)
On Bayamo's main square, head to the rear terrace overlooking Río Bayamo, fringed by a bucolic backdrop worthy of an isolated country villa. Set menus offer pork or vaca frita (a kind of shredded beef) with sides and dessert. Try the beef and taste the coffee, or simply relax before the tour groups arrive. Has live music on some afternoons.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Café Literario Ventana SurBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Figueredo No 62; h10am-midnight)
Join the town's poets, artists and musicians imbibing strong coffee and swapping ideas. You'll see them at the alfresco tables strumming their guitars before launching into spontaneous outbreaks of music – Silvio Rodríguez meets Radiohead.
Bar la EsquinaBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-17-31; cnr Donato Marmol & Maceo; h12pm-12am)
International cocktails are served in this tiny corner bar replete with plenty of local atmosphere.
Piano BarBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-40-27; Bartholomé Masó btw General García & Barranca de la Luz; MN$10; h12pm-12am Mon-Fri, 2pm-2am Sat & Sun)
Ice-cold air-con, starched tablecloths, stern waiters, good live music from piano recitals to trovadores (folk singers) and crooners of musica romantica. So plush it's sometimes invite-only. Music is daily, except for Mondays.
La TabernaBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; General García, btwn Saco & Figueredo; h10am-10pm)
This busy local place on the main shopping street has beer on tap in ceramic mugs and a constant buzz of conversation. Pay in Cuban pesos.
3Entertainment
Teatro BayamoTHEATER
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-51-06; Reparto Jesús Menéndez)
Six blocks northeast of the bus station, opposite Plaza de la Patria, lies one of the Oriente's most impressive theaters. Constructed in 1982, the theater was converted into its current function only in 2007. The vitrales (stained glass windows) in the lobby are sensational. Performances are usually Wednesday, Saturday or Sunday.
Casa de la Trova la BayamesaTRADITIONAL MUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-56-73; Maceo No 111; CUC$1; h10am-1am)
One of Cuba's best trova houses, in a lovely colonial building on Maceo. Pictures on the wall display the famous '70s afro of Bayamo-born trova king Pablo Milanés. There's an ARTex gift shop onsite.
UneacARTS CENTER
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-36--70; Céspedes No 158; hvary)
You can catch heartfelt boleros on the flowery patio here in the former home of disgraced first president Tomás Estrada Palma, the man invariably blamed for handing Guantánamo to the yanquis (Yankees).
Centro Cultural Los BeatlesLIVE MUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-17-99; Zenea, btwn Figueredo & Saco; CUC$1; h6am-midnight Tue-Sun)
Just as the rest of the world fell for the exoticism of the Buena Vista Social Club, Cubans fell for the downright brilliance of the Fab Four. This quirky place hosts Beatles tribute bands (in Spanish) every weekend. Unmissable!
Cine CéspedesCINEMA
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-42-67; Libertad No 4; MN$5)
This cinema is on the western side of Parque Céspedes by the post office. It offers everything from Gutiérrez Alea to the latest Hollywood blockbuster (occasional English-language films with Spanish subtitles).
Casa de la CulturaARTS CENTER
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-59-17; General García No 15)
Wide-ranging cultural events, including art expos, on the east side of Parque Céspedes.
Estadio Mártires de BarbadosSPECTATOR SPORT
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-57-47; Av Granma)
From October to April there are baseball games at this stadium, approximately 2km east of the center.
Cabaret BayamCABARET
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-48-16-98; Carretera Central, Km 2; h7pm-midnight Tue-Sun)
Bayamo's glittery nightclub/cabaret opposite the Hotel Sierra Maestra draws out the locals on weekends in their equally glittery attire. It's the largest indoor cabaret in Cuba.
DON'T MISS
FIESTA DE LA CUBANíA
Bayamo's quintessential nighttime attraction is an ebullient and unique street party, the likes of which you'll find nowhere else in Cuba. It includes the locally famous pipe organs, whole roast pig, an eye-watering oyster drink called ostiones and – incongruously in the middle of it all – rows of tables laid out diligently with chess sets. Dancing is, of course, de rigueur. The action kicks off at 8pm-ish on Saturday. Traditionally the fiesta has been held in Calle Saco close to the main square but, to the chagrin of many locals, it has been moved to a site just outside the center in Plaza de la Fiesta. Check its current status at Infotur.
7Shopping
Paseo Bayamés is the main pedestrian shopping street but, with few tourists, stores are mainly aimed at locals.
ARTexGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-48-79-56; General García No 7; h9am-4:30pm Mon-Sat)
The usual mix of Che Guevara T-shirts and bogus Santería dolls in Parque Céspedes.
8Information
Internet Access
There is wi-fi in the Plaza de la Revolucion and the small park in front of the Casa de la Trova.
Etecsa TelepuntoINTERNET
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-83-53; General García, btwn Saco & Figueredo; internet per hr CUC$1.50; h8:30am-7pm)
Buy Internet scratch cards here or use the internet terminals; it's rarely busy.
Medical Services
Farmacia InternacionalMEDICAL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-95-96; General García, btwn Figueredo & Lora; h8am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Sat)
Pharmacy.
Hospital Carlos Manuel de CéspedesHOSPITAL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-50-12; Carretera Central, Km 1)
For medical emergencies.
Money
There are plenty of ATMs.
Banco de Crédito y ComercioBANK
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-63-40; cnr General García & Saco; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-11am Sat)
Bank with ATM.
Post
Post office (
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-32-72; cnr Maceo & Parque Céspedes; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat)
Tourist Information
CubanacánTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Maceo s/n; h9am-noon, 1pm-4:30pm Mon-Sat)
Arranges hikes to Pico Turquino and Parque Nacional Desembarco del Granma, among other places.
EcoturTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-48-70-06 ext 639; Hotel Sierra Maestra)
Helpful office booking excursions to Pico Turquino and Parque Nacional Desembarco de Granma. Ask about the Ruta de la Revolución hike.
InfoturTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-34-68; Plaza del Himno Nacional, cnr Joaquín Palma; h8:30am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri)
Take advantage of this courteous, helpful information office – a rare find. It offers bilingual city tours by bicycle taxi (CUC$4) and sells the same tours as Ecotour and Cubanacán. Use hashtags #Infotur #Bayamo on Facebook site to find city events.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Bayamo's Carlos Manuel de Céspedes Airport (airport code BYM) is about 4km northeast of town, on the road to Holguín. There are no international flights to or from Bayamo.
Bus & Truck
The provincial bus station (
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Carretera Central & Av Jesús Rabí) has Víazul (
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-74-82; www.viazul.com; cnr Carretera Central & Av Jesús Rabí) buses to several destinations.
Buses heading west also stop at Las Tunas (CUC$6), Camagüey (CUC$11), Ciego de Ávila (CUC$17), Sancti Spíritus (CUC$21) and Santa Clara (CUC$26).
Passenger trucks leave from an adjacent terminal for Santiago de Cuba, Holguín, Manzanillo, Pilón and Niquero several times per day. You can truck it to Bartolomé Masó, as close as you can get on public transport to the Sierra Maestra trailhead. Trucks leave when full and you pay as you board.
The intermunicipal bus station (
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-40-40; cnr Saco & Línea), opposite the train station, receives mostly local buses of little use to travelers, although trucks to Guisa leave from here.
Taxi
State taxis can be procured for hard-to-reach destinations such as Manzanillo (CUC$30), Pilón (CUC$75) and Niquero (CUC$80). Prices are estimates and will depend on the current price of petrol. Nonetheless, it is usually cheaper to reach all these places by taxi than by rental car.
Train
The train station (
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-30-56; cnr Saco & Línea; train to Havana CUC$25) is 1km east of the center. There are three local trains a day to Manzanillo (via Yara). Other daily trains serve Santiago and Camagüey. The long-distance Havana–Manzanillo train passes through Bayamo every fourth day.
8Getting Around
Cubataxi (
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-43-13) can supply a taxi to Bayamo airport for CUC$5 or to Aeropuerto Frank País in Holguín for CUC$35. A taxi to Villa Santo Domingo (setting-off point for the Alto del Naranjo trailhead for Sierra Maestra hikes) or Comandancia la Plata will cost approximately CUC$35 one way. There's a taxi stand in the south of town near Museo Ñico López.
Cubacar (
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-59-70-05; Carretera Central) rents cars at the Hotel Sierra Maestra.
The Servi-Cupet gas station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Carretera Central) is between Hotel Sierra Maestra and the bus terminal as you arrive from Santiago de Cuba.
The main horse-cart route (MN$1) runs between the train station and the hospital, via the bus station. Bici-taxis ( GOOGLE MAP ) (a few pesos a ride) are also useful for getting around town. There's a stand near the train station.
Gran Parque Nacional Sierra Maestra
Comprising a sublime mountainscape of verdant peaks and humid cloud forest, and home to honest, hardworking campesinos (country folk), Gran Parque Nacional Sierra Maestra (
GOOGLE MAP
; CUC$15; hcloses at 4pm) is an alluring natural sanctuary that still echoes with the gunshots of Castro's guerrilla campaign of the late 1950s. Situated 40km south of Yara, up a very steep 24km concrete road from Bartolomé Masó, this precipitous, little-trammeled region contains the country's highest peak, Pico Turquino (1972m; just over the border in Santiago de Cuba province), unlimited birdlife and flora, and the rebels' one-time wartime headquarters, Comandancia la Plata.
1Sights
oComandancia de la PlataLANDMARK
( GOOGLE MAP )
Topping a crenellated mountain ridge amid thick cloud forest, this pioneering camp was established by Fidel Castro in 1958 after a year on the run in the Sierra Maestra. Well camouflaged and remote, the rebel HQ was chosen for its inaccessibility and it served its purpose well – Batista's soldiers never found it.
Today it remains much as it was left in the '50s, with 16 simple wooden buildings providing an evocative reminder of one of the most successful guerrilla campaigns in history. It's easy to appreciate the site's strategic location. The main site, culminating in the Casa de Fidel (Fidel's House) is approached via an open space, then a climb through thick trees.
Highlights include the small museum, near the beginning of the complex, the masterfully designed Casa de Fidel with its seven concealed escape routes in case the Revolution's leaders got discovered, and the steep climb up Radio Rebelde to the radio-communications buildings where the rebel's early broadcasts were aired. The hospital buildings, a wake-up call to the brutality of guerilla medical care, lie far below along a separate path (positioned here so the injured wouldn't give the camp location away in their agony).
Comandancia de la Plata is controlled by the Centro de Información de Flora y Fauna in Santo Domingo. Aspiring guerrilla-watchers must first hire a guide at the park headquarters, then get transport (or walk) 5km up to Alto del Naranjo and then proceed on foot along a muddy track for the final 4km. The guided excursion costs CUC$33 including transport, water and a snack (CUC$5 extra for cameras). You can organize it at the Ecotur office in Villa Santo Domingo.
oSanto DomingoVILLAGE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; museum admission CUC$1; hmuseum hours vary)
This tiny village nestles in a deep green valley beside the deliciously clean Río Yara. Communally it provides a wonderful slice of peaceful Cuban campesino life that has carried on pretty much unchanged since Fidel and Che prowled these shadowy mountains in the 1950s. If you decide to stick around, you can get a taste of rural socialism at the local school and medical clinic, or ask at Villa Santo Domingo about the tiny village museum.
Locals also offer horseback riding (CUC$10 per hour), pedicure treatments, hikes to natural swimming pools and some classic old first-hand tales from the annals of revolutionary history.
The park closes at 4pm but rangers won't let you pass after mid-morning, so set off early to maximize your visit.
Alto del NaranjoLANDMARK
( GOOGLE MAP )
All trips into the park begin at the end of the near-vertical, corrugated-concrete access road at Alto del Naranjo (after Villa Santo Domingo the road gains 750 vertical meters in less than 5km). To get there, it's an arduous two-hour walk or zippy ride in a 4WD. There's a wondrous view of the plains of Granma from this 950m-high lookout, otherwise it's a launching pad for La Plata (3km) and Pico Turquino (13km).
WORTH A TRIP
CLIMBING PICO TURQUINO
Towering 1972m above the calm Caribbean, Pico Turquino – so named for the turquoise hue that colors its steep upper slopes – is Cuba's highest and most regularly climbed mountain.
Carpeted in lush cloud forest and protected in a 140-sq-km national park, the peak's lofty summit is embellished by a bronze bust of national hero José Martí. In a patriotic test of endurance, the statue was dragged to the top in 1953 by a young Celia Sánchez and her father, Manuel Sánchez Silveira, to mark the centennial of the apostle's birth.
Four years later, Sánchez visited the summit again, this time with a rifle-wielding Fidel Castro in tow to record an interview with American news network CBS. Not long afterwards, the rebel army pitched their permanent headquarters in the mountain's imposing shadow, atop a tree-protected ridge near La Plata.
Best tackled as a through trek from the Santo Domingo side, the rugged, two- to three-day grind up Turquino starts from Alto del Naranjo above Santo Domingo and ends at Las Cuevas on the Caribbean coast (an out-and-back Alto del Naranjo–Pico Turquino hike is also possible). Guides are mandatory and can be arranged through Flora y Fauna employees at Villa Santo Domingo or at the small hut at Las Cuevas. The cost varies, depending on how many days you take. If you organize it through Ecotur/Cubanacán in Bayamo, bank on CUC$68 per person for two days. You'll also need to stock up on food (dinner/breakfast at the overnight shelters are included but nothing in-between), warm clothing, candles and some kind of sleeping roll or sheet. Even in August it gets cold at the shelters, so be prepared. Water is available along the trail, but is scarce: carry reserves.
The trail through the mountains from Alto del Naranjo passes the village of La Platica (water), Palma Mocha (campsite), Lima (campsite), Campismo Joachín (shelter and water), El Cojo (shelter), Pico Joachín, Paso de los Monos, Loma Redonda, Pico Turquino (1972m), Pico Cuba (1872m; with shelter/water at 1650m), Pico Cardero (1265m) and La Esmajagua (600m; with basic refreshments) before dropping down to Las Cuevas on the coast. The first two days are spent on the 13km section to Pico Turquino (normally overnighting at the Campismo Joachín and/or Pico Cuba shelters), where a prearranged guide takes over and leads you down to Las Cuevas. As with all guide services, tips are in order. Prearranging the second leg from Pico Cuba to Las Cuevas is straightforward and handled by park staff.
These hikes are well coordinated and the guides efficient. The sanest way to begin is by overnighting at Villa Santo Domingo and setting out in the morning (you should enter the park gate by 10am). Transport from Las Cuevas along the coast is sparse, with one scheduled truck on alternate days. Arrange onward transport from Las Cuevas in advance. Approaching from Santo Domingo, you will not (officially) be able to do the Comandancia de la Plata and Pico Turquino hikes the same day, but must stay overnight in the village then begin the Pico Turquino hike the following day.
4Sleeping
Casa Sierra MaestraCASA PARTICULAR$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-56-44-91; Santo Domingo; r CUC$15-40; a)
Rustic heaven! Across the river from the park entrance in Santo Domingo (cross on the stepping stones), this place has four perfectly decent rooms (two in separate cabins) and an atmospheric ranchón-style bar-restaurant (mains CUC$4 to CUC$8). Chickens cluck, and rural bliss descends.
oVilla Santo DomingoHOTEL$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-56-55-68, 23-56-58-34; s/d CUC$38/50, bungalow CUC$63; pa)
This villa, 24km south of Bartolomé Masó, flanks the gateway to Gran Parque Nacional Sierra Maestra. There are 40 cabins (20 cheaper concrete ones and 20 newer ones in smart wooden buildings) next to the Río Yara. The setting, among cascading mountains and campesino huts, is idyllic and the best jumping-off point for Comandancia de la Plata and Pico Turquino.
You can also test your lungs by going for a challenging early-morning hike up a painfully steep road to Alto del Naranjo (5km; 750m of ascent). Other attractions include horseback riding, river swimming and traditional music in the villa's restaurant. Fidel stayed here on various occasions (in hut 6) and Raúl dropped by in 2001 after scaling Pico Turquino at the ripe old age of 70. Breakfast is included.
Villa Balcón de la SierraHOTEL$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-56-55-13; s/d incl breakfast CUC$62/72; pas)
One kilometer south of Bartolomé Masó and 16km north of Santo Domingo, this simple hotel is nestled in the mountain foothills somewhat far for easy park access. A swimming pool and restaurant are perched on a small hill with killer mountain views, while 20 air-conditioned cabins are scattered below. Lovely natural ambience juxtaposed with the usual basic-but-functional Islazul furnishings.
8Information
Ecotur (
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-56-58-34; h8am-noon, 2-5pm) maintains a very handy desk at Villa Santo Domingo. If you want to book in advance try Ecotur in Bayamo or Santiago.
The park closes at 4pm, but rangers won't let you pass after mid-morning, so set off early to maximize your visit.
8Getting There & Away
There's no public transport from Bartolomé Masó to Alto del Naranjo (and trucks to Bartolomé Masó from Bayamo are infrequent and uncomfortable). A taxi from Bayamo to Villa Santo Domingo should cost around CUC$35 one way. Ensure it can take you all the way; the last 7km before Villa Santo Domingo is extremely steep but passable in a (decent) normal car. Returning, the hotel should be able to arrange onward transport for you to Bartolomé Masó, Bayamo or Manzanillo.
A 4WD vehicle with good brakes is necessary to drive the last 5km from Santo Domingo to Alto del Naranjo; it's the steepest road in Cuba with 45% gradients near the top. Powerful 4WDs pass regularly, usually for adventurous tour groups, and you may be able to find a space on board for approximately CUC$5 (ask at Villa Santo Domingo). Alternatively, it's a tough but rewarding 5km hike (or a gut-wrenching morning run!).
WORTH A TRIP
MEDIA LUNA
One of a handful of small towns punctuating the swaying sugar fields between Manzanillo and Cabo Cruz, Media Luna is worth a pit stop on the basis of its Celia Sánchez connections. The revolution's 'first lady' was born here in 1920 in a small clapboard house that is now the fastidiously curated Celia Sánchez Museum. (
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-59-34-66; Raúl Podio No 111, Media Luna; admission CUC$1; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 8am-noon Sun)
If you have time, take a stroll around this quintessential Cuban sugar town dominated by a tall soot-stained mill (now disused) and characteristic clapboard houses decorated with gingerbread embellishments. There is also a lovely glorieta (gazebo), almost as outlandish as Manzanillo's. The main park is the place to get a take on the local street theater while supping on quick-melting ice cream.
A signposted road from Media Luna leads 28km to Cinco Palmas.
Manzanillo
Pop 131,000
Bayside Manzanillo isn't exactly pretty but it does find its way under your skin. Hang out in the semiruined central park with its old-fashioned street organs and distinctive neo-Moorish architecture. With bare-bones transport links, few travelers make it here. Off the standard guidebook trail, you can see how Cubans have learned to live with decades of austerity.
Founded in 1784 as a small fishing port, Manzanillo's early history was dominated by smugglers and pirates trading in contraband. The subterfuge continued into the late 1950s, when the city's proximity to the Sierra Maestra made it an important supply center for arms and men joining Castro's revolutionaries in their secret mountaintop headquarters.
Manzanillo's famous hand-operated street organs were first imported from France in the early 20th century. The city's musical legacy was solidified further in 1972 with a government-sponsored nueva trova festival that culminated in a solidarity march to Playa las Coloradas.
1Sights
In Town
Manzanillo is well known for its striking architecture, a psychedelic mélange of wooden beach shacks, Andalusian-style town houses and intricate neo-Moorish facades. Check out the ramshackle wooden abodes around Perucho Figueredo, between Merchán and JM Gómez.
Parque CéspedesPARK
( GOOGLE MAP )
Manzanillo's central square is notable for its priceless glorieta (gazebo/bandstand), an imitation of the Patio de los Leones in Spain's Alhambra, where Moorish mosaics, a scalloped cupola and arabesque columns set off a theme that's replicated elsewhere. Nearby, a permanent statue of Carlos Puebla, Manzanillo's famous homegrown troubadour, sits contemplatively on a bench.
On the eastern side of Parque Céspedes, is Manzanillo's Museo Histórico Municipal whilst the Iglesia de la Purisma Concepción is a neoclassical beauty from 1805, with an impressive gilded altarpiece.
Celia Sánchez MonumentMONUMENT
( GOOGLE MAP )
About eight blocks southwest of the park lies Manzanillo's most evocative sight. Built in 1990, this terra-cotta-tiled staircase embellished with colorful ceramic murals runs up Calle Caridad between Martí and Luz Caballero. The birds and flowers on the reliefs represent Sánchez, lynchpin of the M-26-7 (July 26 Movement) and longtime aid to Castro, whose visage appears on the central mural near the top of the stairs. It's a moving memorial with excellent views out over the city and bay.
City Bank of NY BuildingNOTABLE BUILDING
( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Merchán & Dr Codina)
For an example of the city's striking architecture, check out the old City Bank of NY building, dating from 1913.
Museo Histórico MunicipalMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-57-20-53; Martí No 226; h8am-noon & 2-6pm Tue-Fri, 8am-noon & 6-10pm Sat & Sun)
F
On the eastern side of Parque Céspedes, Manzanillo's Museo Histórico Municipal gives the usual local history lesson with a revolutionary twist
Outside Town
oMuseo Histórico la DemajaguaMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %52-19-40-80; CUC$1; h8am-5pm Tue-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun)
Ten kilometers south of Manzanillo is the moving sight of the sugar estate of Carlos Manuel de Céspedes, whose outcry, known as 'Grito de Yara', and the subsequent freeing of his slaves on October 10, 1868, marked the opening of Cuba's independence wars. There's a small museum and the Demajagua bell that Céspedes tolled to announce Cuba's (then unofficial) independence.
In 1947 an as-yet-unknown Fidel Castro 'kidnapped' the bell and took it to Havana in a publicity stunt to protest against the corrupt Cuban government.
Also at La Demajagua are the remains of Céspedes' original ingenio (sugar mill) and a poignant monument (with a quote from Castro). To get here, travel south 10km from the Servi-Cupet gas station in Manzanillo, in the direction of Media Luna, and then another 2.5km off the main road, towards the sea.
Criadero de CocodrilosWILDLIFE RESERVE
(Crocodile Farm;
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-53-22-11; CUC$5; h7am-6pm Mon-Fri, 7-11am Sat)
The nearby Cauto River delta is home to a growing number of wild crocodiles, so it's no surprise to encounter one of Cuba's half dozen or so crocodile farms here. There are close to 1000 crocs at this breeding farm, although they're all of the less-endangered 'American' variety. The farm is 9km south of Manzanillo on the road to Media Luna.
The farm can be reached by taxi (CUC$10) from Manzanillo.
4Sleeping
Manzanillo – thank heavens – has great quality casas particulares, as there's not much happening on the hotel scene.
oAdrián & ToniaCASA PARTICULAR$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-57-30-28; ato700714@gmail.com; Mártires de Vietnam No 49; r CUC$20-25; pas)
This fabulous casa would stand out in any city, let alone Manzanillo. The position, on the terra-cotta staircase to the Celia Sánchez monument, obviously helps. But Adrián and Tonia have gone beyond the call of duty with a vista-laden terrace, plunge pool and five separate suites, including one with private entrance and kitchen facilities.
La RocaCASA PARTICULAR$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %58-15-18-21, 23-57-79-80; mercyandraca@nauta.cu; Martires de Vietnam No 68; r CUC$25; aW)
Climb the Celia Sánchez staircase to this smart multistory home with two guest rooms. Rooms are ample and bright and there are great city views. The recommended onsite restaurant (mains CUC$5 to CUC$10) is for guests only. You can catch wi-fi from the balcony.
Casa PeñaCASA PARTICULAR$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %52-46-61-51, 23-57-26-28; mherrerar@grannet.sld.cu; Maceo No 189 cnr Loma; r CUC$25)
A pleasant casa run by Dolli. The public areas resemble a refined museum and the one ample room and quiet plant-filled terrace don't disappoint.
Hotel GuacanayaboHOTEL$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-57-40-12; Circunvalación Camilo Cienfuegos; s/d CUC$25/40; pas)
The austere Islazul-run Guacanayabo resembles a tropical reincarnation of a Gulag camp. Stay if you must. It's 3km from the center.
5Eating
The city's renowned for its fish, including the delicious liseta, but overall restaurant choices are dire: if in doubt eat at your casa particular or drop in on the weekend Sábado en la Calle when the locals cook up traditional whole roast pig.
Paladar Rancho LunaCUBAN$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-57-38-58; José Miguel Gómez No 169; meals CUC$3-5; hnoon-11pm)
A passable restaurant blaring reggaetón, it's nonetheless your best option for reasonably priced fare. A decorative, typically Manzanillan facade sets the tone. The food, though never legendary, is perfectly OK as long as you stick to the local specialty – prawns.
Cayo ConfiteSEAFOOD$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Malecón; mains CUC$8; h9am-9pm)
Utter simplicity – sit on this shady deck facing the waterfront for whole fried fish served with plantain chips. It's on the edge of town at the far end of the Malecón (boardwalk).
Complejo Costa AzulPARRILLA$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; mains MN$15-30; hfood noon-9:30pm daily, cabaret 8pm-midnight Tue-Sun)
Down by the bay is this grillhouse and cabaret thrown into one. It's highly likely neither amenity will blow your mind but, nevertheless, the eating/entertainment are nigh on as good as it gets here. Pay in pesos.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Bodegón PinillaBAR
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Martí No 212; h9am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)
A new two-level place on the peatonal (pedestrianized section) and a good bet for a beer.
3Entertainment
Manzanillo's best 'gig' takes place on Saturday evening in the famed Sábado en la Calle, a riot of piping organs, roasted pigs, throat-burning rum and, of course, dancing locals. Don't miss it! The local 'yoof' prefer the Malecón.
Teatro ManzanilloTHEATER
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-57-25-39; Villuendas, btwn Maceo & Saco; hshows 8pm Fri-Sun)
Touring companies such as the Ballet de Camagüey and Danza Contemporánea de Cuba perform at this lovingly restored venue. Built in 1856 and restored in 1926 and again in 2002, this 430-seat beauty is packed with oil paintings, stained glass and original detail.
Casa de la TrovaTRADITIONAL MUSIC
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-57-54-23; Merchán No 213; MN$1)
In the spiritual home of nueva trova (traditional singing), a renovation of the local trova house was long overdue. Pay a visit to this hallowed and freshly painted musical shrine where Carlos Puebla once plucked his strings.
8Information
Internet Access
There's a wi-fi signal on the plaza. Purchase wi-fi scratchcards at Etecsa (
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-57-88-91; cnr Gomez & Codina; internet per hour CUC$1.50; h8:30am-7pm).
Money
Banks are plentiful, with ATMs.
Banco de Crédito y ComercioBANK
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-57-71-25; cnr Merchán & Saco; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri)
Has an ATM.
CadecaBANK
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-57-74-67; Martí No 188)
Two blocks from the main square. With few places accepting convertibles here, you'll need some Cuban pesos.
Post
Post office (
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-57-29-21; cnr Martí & Codina; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat) One block from Parque Céspedes.
Tourist Information
InfoturTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-57-44-12; Maceo btwn Maran & Gomez; h8am-5:30pm Mon-Fri)
Helpful information desk facing the plaza. If you are interested in espiritismo (rituals with Taíno roots that integrate Catholic saints), they can help arrange a visit to the largest espiritismo center in Cuba called Centro la Ville.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Manzanillo's Sierra Maestra Airport (airport code MZO) is on the road to Cayo Espino, 8km south of the Servi-Cupet gas station in Manzanillo. In winter, Sunwing (www.sunwing.ca) flies direct from Toronto and Montreal and Silver Airways (www.silverairways.com) flies from Fort Lauderdale, USA.
A taxi between the airport and the center of town should cost approximately CUC$10, though may be more if you have ordered a taxi from your lodging to wait for your flight.
Bus & Truck
The bus station (
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-57-27-27; Av Rosales) is 2km northeast of the city center. There are no Víazul services. This narrows your options down to guaguas (local Cuban buses, MN$3 for regional destinations) or trucks (no reliable schedules and long queues; MN$10 to MN$15 for regional destinations).
Services run several times a day to Yara (20 minutes) and Bayamo (two hours) in the east and Pilón (two hours) and Niquero (1¾ hours) in the south. For the latter destinations you can also board at the crossroads near the Servi-Cupet gas station and the hospital, which is also where you'll find the amarillos (transport officials).
Car
Cubacar (
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-57-77-36; Hotel Guacanayabo) has an office at the Hotel Guacanayabo. There's a sturdy road running through Corralito up into Holguín, making this the quickest exit from Manzanillo toward points north and east.
Train
All services from the train station on the north side of town are via Yara and Bayamo. All are painfully slow.
8Getting Around
Horse carts (MN$2) to the bus station leave from Dr Codina between Plácido and Luz Caballero. Horse carts to the shipyard leave from the bottom of Saco (MN$6).
WORTH A TRIP
CINCO PALMAS
At the hamlet of Cinco Palmas, pristine natural landscapes are doused in poignant revolutionary history. This is where Castro’s rebels regrouped on December 18, 1956, after their baptism of fire at Alegrio de Pio, 28km away. A bronze monument of three campesinos who helped the beleaguered rebel army, then down to a dozen men, was erected in 2008. The monument guards the finca of Ramón ‘Mongo’ Pérez where Castro and others sought shelter. There’s also a small, free museum with a 3D map of the hilly terrain.
Cinco Palmas lies 28km southeast of the town of Media Luna along a rough but passable dirt road. Trails from the site lead west to Alegria de Pio and east to Comendancia La Plata. Ask about guided hikes at Ecotur in Bayamo.
Niquero
Pop 41,252
A good launchpad to Parque Nacional Desembarco del Granma, Niquero is a small fishing port and sugar town in the isolated southwest corner of Granma. It's dominated by the Roberto Ramírez Delgado sugar mill. Built in 1905 and nationalized in 1960, it is one of the few regional mills still in operation. Like many Granma settlements, Niquero is characterized by its distinctive clapboard houses.
Ostensibly, there isn't much to do in Niquero, but you can explore the town park, where there's a cinema, and visit a small museum. Look out for the monument commemorating the oft-forgotten victims of the Granma landing, who were hunted down and killed by Batista's troops in December 1956.
There are two Servi-Cupet petrol stations and a bank.
But here's a surprise, and a far-from-unpleasant one. Nestled in Niquero's center, is Hotel Niquero (
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-59-23-68; Esquina Martí; s/d CUC$25/28; paW), a low-key, out-on-a-limb hotel situated opposite the local sugar factory with substantially sized, amenable rooms, and little balconies overlooking the street. The affordable on-site restaurant can rustle up a reasonable beef steak with sauce.
8Getting There & Away
There are buses to Manzanillo several times per day, but no Viazul services.
Parque Nacional Desembarco del Granma
Mixing unique environmental diversity with heavy historical significance, the Parque Nacional Desembarco del Granma ( GOOGLE MAP ; CUC$5) consists of 275 sq km of forest, peculiar karst topography and uplifted marine terraces. A shrine to the Cuban Revolution, Castro's stricken leisure yacht Granma limped ashore here in December 1956.
This Unesco World Heritage Site protects some of the Americas' most pristine coastal cliffs. Of 512 plant species identified thus far, about 60% are endemic, with a dozen found only here. Fauna is equally rich, with 25 species of mollusk, seven species of amphibian, 44 types of reptile, 110 bird species and 13 types of mammal.
In El Guafe, archaeologists have uncovered Cuba's second-most important community of ancient agriculturists and ceramic-makers. Thousand-year-old artifacts include altars, carved stones and earthen vessels along with idols guarding a water goddess inside a ceremonial cave.
There's two main access points: Las Coloradas and the village of Alegrio de Pio.
1Sights
Alegría de PíoHISTORIC SITE
( GOOGLE MAP ; CUC$5)
Considered hallowed revolutionary ground, this is the spot where Castro's shipwrecked rebels were intercepted by Batista's army in 1956 and forced to split up and flee. It's also the official finishing point for the 18km hike from Las Coloradas following the rebels' route in December 1956. There's guided hiking, birdwatching and exploration of a fascinating cave system. It's accessed via 28km of potholed purgatory from a turn-off in Niquero. Bring plenty of drinking water.
There's a monument in the sugar cane field where the rebels were surprised. It's emblazoned with the names of the fallen and the words 'Nadie se rinde aqui, cojone!' (No one surrenders here, bollocks!), supposedly shouted by Camilo Cienfuegos and repeated by Juan Almeida as all hell broke loose. A guide will show you around the site, which includes various graves, billboards and a cave where Che Guevara and Juan Almeida hid for two days.
The highlight for outdoors enthusiasts will be the cave system. Morlotte-Fustete is a 2km trail that traverses the spectacular marine terraces (sometimes using wooden ladders) and takes in the Cueva del Fustete – a 5km-long cavern replete with stalagmites and stalactites – and the Hoyo de Morlotte, a 77m deep karstic hole caused by water corrosion. El Samuel is a 1.3km trail to the Cueva Espelunca, another cave thought to have been used by indigenous people for religious ceremonies. Boca de Toro is a 6km trail to high cliffs overlooking a river valley and takes in the Farallón de Blanquizal, a beautiful natural lookout.
From here the rebel trail from Las Coloradas continues east to Cinco Palmas and, ultimately, Comendancia La Plata.
Cabo CruzVILLAGE
( GOOGLE MAP )
Three kilometers beyond the El Guafe trailhead is a tiny fishing community with skiffs bobbing offshore and sinewy men gutting their catch on the golden beach. The 33m-tall Vargas lighthouse here (erected 1871) now belongs to the Cuban military. There are plans to install a diving center to take advantage of incredible diving opportunities nearby.
There's good swimming and shore snorkeling east of the lighthouse; bring your own gear as there are no facilities.
Museo las ColoradasMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; CUC$5; h8am-6pm)
A large monument just beyond the park gate marks the Granma's landing spot. A small museum outlines the routes taken by Castro, Guevara and the others into the Sierra Maestra, and there's a full-scale replica of the Granma, which – if you're lucky – a machete-wielding guard will let you climb inside to wonder how 82 men ever made it.
The entry ticket includes a visit to the simple reconstructed hut of the first campesino (a poor charcoal-burner) to help Fidel after the landing. An enthusiastic guide will also accompany you along a 1.3km path through dense mangroves to the ocean and the spot where the Granma ran aground, 70m off-shore.
2Activities
Sendero Arqueológico Natural el GuafeHIKING
( GOOGLE MAP ; CUC$5)
About 8km southwest of Las Coloradas is this well-signposted, 2km-long trail, the park's headline nature/archaeological hike. An underground river here has created 20 large caverns, one of which contains the famous ĺdolo del Agua, carved from stalagmites by pre-Columbian Indians; there's also a 500-year-old cactus, butterflies, 170 different species of birds (including the tiny colibrí) and multiple orchids.
Guides are required but included in the entry cost. You should allow two hours for the stroll in order to take in everything. There are hundreds of flies here. Bring repellent.
The park is flecked with other trails, the best of which is the 30km trek to Alegria del Pio, replicating the journey of the 82 rebels who landed here in 1956. Due to its length and lack of suitable signage, this rarely tackled trail is best done with a guide (the trail actually runs on a further 70km into the Sierra Maestra, if you're feeling energetic). Inquire at Ecotur in Bayamo beforehand. You'll need to arrange for transport to meet you at Alegria del Pio.
4Sleeping
Campismo las ColoradosCAMPISMO$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Carretera de Niquero Km 17; s/d CUC$8/12; a)
A Category 3 campismo with 28 duplex cabins standing on 500m of murky beach, 5km southwest of Belic, just outside the park. All cabins have air-con and baths and there's a restaurant, a games hall and watersport rental on-site. You can book through Campismo Popular (
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-42-24-25; General García No 112; h8am-5pm) in Bayamo.
5Eating
Restaurante el CaboSEAFOOD$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Cabo Cruz; meals CUC$3; h7am-9pm Tue-Sun)
The cheapest seafood in Cuba comes straight out of the Caribbean behind this restaurant that lies in the shadow of the Vargas lighthouse. Expect fresh fillets of snapper and swordfish, and prices in Cuban pesos.
Ranchón las ColoradosCARIBBEAN$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Los Colorados; meals CUC$2-4; hnoon-7pm)
A traditional thatched-roof restaurant selling fairly basic comida criolla (Creole cooking) just before the park gates. This place does the business if you're hungry after a long drive.
8Getting There & Away
Ten kilometers southwest of Media Luna the road divides, with Pilón 30km to the southeast and Niquero 10km to the southwest. Belic is 16km southwest of Niquero. It's another 6km from Belic to the national park entry gate. The turn-off for Alegria de Pio is just after the Servicentro in Niguero.
If you don't have your own transport, getting here is tough. Irregular buses go as far as the Campismo las Coloradas daily and there are equally infrequent trucks from Belic. As a last resort, you can try the amarillos (transport officials) in Niquero. The closest gas station is in Niquero.
WORTH A TRIP
PILóN
Pilón is a small, isolated settlement wedged between the Marea del Portillo resorts and the Parque Nacional Desembarco del Granma. With the sugar mill shut down, its reason for being is the Casa Museo Celia Sánchez Manduley (Pilon; CUC$1; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat), a museum in honour of the revolution's 'first lady' who briefly lived at this address in Pilón.
If you happen here on a Saturday, attend the lively Sábado de Rumba, a weekly street party with whole roast pig, shots of rum and plenty of live music. This is your best chance of seeing the popular Cuban dance called the pilón (named after the town), which imitates the rhythms of pounding sugar.
The hotels at Marea del Portillo 11km away run a weekly Saturday evening transfer bus to Pilón for CUC$5 return. Getting here otherwise will involve a car, long-distance bike or winging it with the amarillos (transport officials).
Marea del Portillo
There's something infectious about Marea del Portillo, a tiny south-coast village bordered by two low-key all-inclusive resorts. Wedged into a narrow strip of dry land between the glistening Caribbean and the cascading Sierra Maestra, it occupies a spot of great natural beauty – and great history.
The problem for independent travelers is getting here. There is no regular public transport, which means that you may, for the first time, have to take a long distance taxi or brave sporadic truck transport. Another issue for beach lovers is the sand, which is of a light gray color and may disappoint those more attuned to the brilliant whites of Cayo Coco.
The resorts themselves are affordable and well-maintained but isolated; the nearest town of any size is lackluster Manzanillo 100km to the north. Real rustic Cuba, however, is right outside the hotel gates.
2Activities
There's plenty to do here, despite the area's apparent isolation. Horseback riding to El Salto, village tours to Sevilla, Pilón and Mota or jeep tours to El Macio River can be arranged. You can also visit Parque Nacional Desembarco del Granma from here. Book trips at Cubanacán desks in Hotel Marea del Portillo and Hotel Farallón del Caribe.
Hiking
El SaltoHIKING
( GOOGLE MAP )
This wondrous DIY 20km out-and-back hike takes you through fields and valleys, a small village, past a lake, across a river and, finally, to El Salto, where there's a small waterfall, a shady thatched shelter and an inviting swimming hole.
Starting right outside the hotel complex, turn right onto the coast road and then, after approximately 400m, hang left onto an unpaved track just before a bridge. The track eventually joins a road and traverses a dusty, scattered settlement. On the far side of the village a dam rises above you. Rather than take the paved road up the embankment to the left, branch right and, after 200m, pick up a clear path that rises steeply up above the dam and into view of the lake behind. This beautiful path tracks alongside the lake before crossing one of its river feeds on a wooden bridge. Go straight on and uphill here and, when the path forks on the crest, bear right. Heading down into a verdant tranquil valley, pass a casa de campesino (the friendly owners keep bees and will give you honey, coffee and a geographical reorientation), cross the river (Río Cilantro) and then follow it upstream to El Salto.
Salto de GuayabitoHIKING
( GOOGLE MAP )
Starting in the village of Mata Dos about 20km east of Marea, this hike is normally done as part of an organized trip from the hotels. Groups – who often embark on horseback – follow the Río Motas 7km upstream to an enchanting waterfall surrounded by rocky cliffs, ferns, cacti and orchids. It's a leisurely day trip.
Diving
Centro Internacional de Buceo Marea del PortilloDIVING, FISHING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-59-71-39; Hotel Marea del Portillo)
Adjacent to Hotel Marea del Portillo, this Cubanacán-run dive center offers affordable scuba diving. For real excitement, dive to the Cristóbal Colón wreck (sunk in the 1898 Spanish-Cuban-American War). The open-sea fishing excursion includes bar and lunch. There have been complaints about reliability (the excursions will not leave if the center doesn't have fuel for the boats).
Other water excursions include a seafari (with snorkeling), a sunset cruise and a trip to uninhabited Cayo Blanco.
4Sleeping
New casas particulares are an interesting alternative to all-inclusive resorts.
Casa Particular Barbara MendezCASA PARTICULAR$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-59-71-62; Marea del Portillo No 14; r CUC$30)
For a private option, Barbara lets out two rooms in her apartment that's 200m from the beach.
Hotel Marea del PortilloHOTEL$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-59-70-08; all-inclusive s/d/tr CUC$40/80/90; pais)
It's not Cayo Coco, but it barely seems to matter here. In fact, Marea's all-round functionalism and lack of big-resort pretension seem to work well in this traditional corner of Cuba. The 74 rooms are perfectly adequate, the food buffet does a good job and the dark sandy arc of beach is within baseball-pitching distance of your balcony/patio.
Servicing loyal repeat-visit Canadians and some Cuban families means there is a mix of people here, plus interesting excursions to some of the island's less-heralded sights.
oHotel Farallón del CaribeHOTEL$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-59-70-82; all-inclusive s/d CUC$95/120, day pass CUC$25; hNov-Apr; paiWs)
Perched on a low hill with the Caribbean on one side and the Sierra Maestra on the other, the modern Farallón is the most impressive option in Marea de Portillo. Three-star, all-inclusive facilities are complemented by five-star surroundings. The food is superior to the competition's and views are great, though it is the furthest resort from the actual beach.
The resort is popular with snow-fleeing Canadians bused in from Manzanillo and is only open seasonally (November to April).
8Getting There & Away
The journey east to Santiago is one of Cuba's most spectacular, but the road quality is awful and regularly affected by the weather. Options are your own car (check ahead regarding road conditions), a taxi (bank on at least CUC$160 for Marea to Santiago de Cuba), bicycle (a two- to three-day view-loaded rollercoaster) or winging it with 'public transport' (possibly one of Cuba's greatest adventures, but only for the hardy who are not averse to long waits and some hitchhiking).
Warning: the road sees very little traffic and has virtually no facilities and no gas stations (the nearest is in Pilón). Travel with supplies.
8Getting Around
The hotels rent out scooters for approximately CUC$25 a day. Cubacar (
GOOGLE MAP
; %23-59-70-05; W) has a desk at Hotel Marea del Portillo, or you can join in an excursion with Cubanacán. The route to El Salto can be covered on foot.