Guantánamo Province

Guantanamo

South Coast

Punta de Maisi

Boca de Yumuri

Baracoa

Northwest of Baracoa

Parque Nacional Alejandro de Humboldt

Guantánamo Province

%21 / Pop 511,000

Why Go?

A fantasy land of crinkled mountains and exuberant foliage, the Cuban Guantánamo remains a galaxy away from modern America in ambience. That doesn't stop most people associating it with the United States Guantanamo Bay Naval Base, which continues in operation, though downsized. Off the base, the region’s isolated valleys and wild coastal microclimates (arid in the south, lush in the north) are Cuba at its most mysterious and esoteric. Herein lie primitive musical subgenres, little-known Afro-Cuban religious rites, and echoes of an indigenous Taíno culture supposedly wiped out by the Spanish centuries ago – or so you thought.

Though brutally battered by Hurricane Matthew in October, 2016, Baracoa and its rural surroundings remain the regional highlight, closely followed by the vibrant endemism of the semivirgin Parque Nacional Alejandro de Humboldt. Further west, the city of Guantánamo, perennially bypassed by most travelers, represents the Cuba rarely tasted by tourists.

When to Go

ABaracoa’s biggest festival, the Semana de la Cultura Baracoesa, takes place in late March/early April with an eruption of music, dance and cultural activities.

ANon-touristy Guantánamo lights a fire in mid-December for the sultry Festival Nacional de Changüí, the ancestor of the modern salsa.

AHurricanes and bad storms mar the months of September and October, making this period the best time to avoid Baracoa.

AGuantánamo’s climate varies hugely, but it’s dependent more on geography than the seasons, meaning mountain passes and lush parks stay wetter than the dry coastal areas.

Best Places to Eat

A Restaurante Las Terrazas Casa Nilson

A El Buen Sabor

A Sabor Melián

A Restaurante La Punta

Best Places to Sleep

A Villa Maguana

A Casa Colonial Ykira Mahiquez

A La Casona

Guantánamo Province Highlights

1 Parque Nacional Alejandro de Humboldt Searching for the world's smallest frog in the most diverse national park in the Caribbean.

2 Baracoa Sampling the exotic culinary delights of the city.

3 La Farola Cycling the ultra-scenic lighthouse road from Cajobabo to Baracoa.

4 Zoológico de Piedras Getting an eyeful of the homespun artistry of these stony statues.

5 El Yunque Ascending through tropical jungle to summit Baracoa's mysterious flat-topped mountain.

6 Guantánamo Uncovering multiple music genres belonging to this forgotten city.

7 Boca de Yumurí Jumping on board a local boat upstream from the river mouth to navigate through the jaws of a narrow river gorge.

Guantánamo

Pop 217,400

Famous for all the wrong reasons, Guantánamo is most often bypassed by travelers on the Santiago–Baracoa bus. The malnourished grid of crusty buildings might not look appealing, but employ some Sherlock Holmes–style sleuthing and a little faltering Spanish and you will find Cuban soul aplenty.

Guantánamo created its own indigenous music genre (changüi), claims one of Cuba’s three legendary Tumba Francesa (French-Haitian song and dance) troupes; supports an active West Indian social club; and exhibits a distinct subgenre of eclectic architecture spearheaded by the intricate work of Leticio Salcines.

'Discovered' by Columbus during his second voyage in 1494, the settlement wasn't built until 1819, when French plantation owners evicted from Haiti founded the town of Santa Catalina del Saltadero del Guaso. In 1843, the burgeoning city became Guantánamo. In 1903, the US Navy took up residence in the bay next door. Sparks have been flying ever since.

Guantánamo

1Sights

1Biblioteca Policarpo Pineda RustánC4

2Museo ProvincialA3

3Palacio SalcinesB3

4Parque MartíB3

5Parroquia de Santa Catalina de RiccisB3

2Activities, Courses & Tours

6Oficina de PatrimonioC4

4Sleeping

7Casa NorkaB2

8Hotel BrasilB4

9Hotel MartíB3

10Lissett Foster LaraB2

5Eating

11Bar-Restaurante OlimpiaB3

12Restaurante 1870B3

6Drinking & Nightlife

13Casa de las Promociones Musicales 'La Guantanamera'B4

14La RuinaB4

3Entertainment

15Casa de ChangüíD2

16Casa de la TrovaB3

17Casa del SonD2

18Tumba Francesa PompadourD2

1Sights

Guantánamo's geometric city grid is easy to navigate. Tree-lined Av Camilo Cienfuegos, a few blocks south of Bartolomé Masó, with its bizarre sculptures and central Rambla-style walkway, is the best place for a walk.

Parque MartíSQUARE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Anchored by the tiny Parroquia de Santa Catalina de Riccis (1863), the renovated Parque Martí features information boards and a clutch of interesting shops, restaurants and entertainment nooks strung along vibrant boulevards. Sitting timelessly amid the action is a seated statue of 'El Maestro', from whom the square takes its name.

Palacio SalcinesNOTABLE BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Pedro A Pérez & Prado; hhours vary)

Local architect Leticio Salcines (1888–1973) left a number of impressive works around Guantánamo, including his personal residence built in 1916, a lavish monument said to be the building most representative of the city. The palacio is now a museum of colorful frescoes, Japanese porcelain and the like. Opening times can be sporadic

On the palace's turret is La Fama, a sculpture designed by Italian artist Americo Chine that serves as the symbol of Guantánamo, her trumpet announcing good and evil.

Plaza Mariana GrajalesSQUARE

( GOOGLE MAP )

The huge, bombastic Monument to the Heroes, glorifying the Brigada Fronteriza 'that defends the forward trench of socialism on this continent,' dominates Plaza Mariana Grajales, 1km northwest of the train station and opposite Hotel Guantánamo. It's one of the more impressive 'revolution squares' on the island.

Biblioteca Policarpo Pineda RustánLIBRARY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-32-33-52; cnr Los Maceos & Emilio Giro; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat)

Another architectural gift from Leticio Salcines is this beautiful provincial library that was once the city hall (1934–51). Trials for Fulgencio Batista's thugs were held here in 1959, and a number were killed when they snatched a rifle and tried to escape.

Museo ProvincialMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-32-58-72; cnr José Martí & Prado; CUC$1; h8am-noon & 12:30-4:30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat)

Housed in an old jail guarded by two canons, the city museum has salas (rooms) dedicated to aboriginal culture, local nature, weapons (lots of Mambí swords) and decorative arts.

Parroquia de Santa Catalina de RiccisCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Parque Martí)

This unspectacular but noble church dates from 1863. In front is a statue of local hero, Mayor General Pedro A Pérez, erected in 1928, opposite a tulip fountain and diminutive glorieta (bandstand).

WORTH A TRIP

ZOOLóGICO DE PIEDRAS

Surreal even by Cuban standards, the Zoológico de Piedras ( GOOGLE MAP ; CUC$1; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat) is an animal sculpture park set amid thick foliage in the grounds of a mountain coffee farm, 20km northeast of Guantánamo. Carved quite literally out of the existing rock by sculptor Angel Iñigo Blanco, starting in the late 1970s, the sculptures now number more than 300 and range from hippos to giant serpents. Señor Blanco passed away in 2014, but the stone zoo continues in his memory.

To get here you'll need your own wheels or a taxi. Head east out of town and fork left toward Jamaica and Honduras. The 'zoo' is in the settlement of Boquerón.

TTours

Oficina de PatrimonioWALKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-35-14-37; Los Maceos, btwn Emilio Giro & Flor Crombet; h8:30am-4:30pm Mon-Fri)

For a fuller exposé of Guantánamo's interesting architectural heritage, ask here about walking tours. There are various offered, including 'In the Footsteps of José Lecticio Salcines' (the architect).

zFestivals & Events

Festival Nacional de ChangüíMUSIC

(hmid-Dec)

Mid-December celebration of changüí music, a regional style considered a predecessor of son montuno and modern salsa that employs African rhythms and Spanish guitar.

Noches GuantanamerasFIESTA

( GOOGLE MAP ; h8pm Sat)

Saturday night is reserved for this local coming together, when Calle Pedro A Pérez closes to traffic and stalls are set up in the street: come and enjoy whole roast pig, belting music and copious amounts of rum.

GITMO – THE STORY SO FAR

Procured in the aftermath of the Spanish-Cuban-American War via the infamous Platt Amendment in 1903, US naval base in Guantánamo Bay (dubbed Gitmo by US Marines) was first established primarily to protect the eastern approach to the strategically important Panama Canal.

In 1934, an upgrade of the original treaty reaffirmed the lease terms and agreed to honor them indefinitely unless both governments accorded otherwise. It also set an annual rent of US$4085, a sum that the US continues to cough up, but which the Cubans won't bank on the grounds that the occupation is illegal (Fidel Castro allegedly stored the checks in the top drawer of his office desk).

The US naval base sits at the jaws of Guantánamo Bay with military installations on both sides and the interior of the bay actually inside Cuban territory. Facilities include a dozen beaches, a water desalination plant, two airstrips and Cuba's only McDonald's, KFC and Starbucks. Approximately 9500 military personnel have been based here.

The facility's recent history is notorious. In the early '90s, it held thousands of Haitian migrants and Cuban balseros (rafters) picked up by the US Coast Guard while trying to reach Florida.

Since 2002 the US has held more than 770 prisoners with suspected Al-Qaeda or Taliban links at Camp Delta in Guantánamo Bay without pressing criminal charges. Denied legal counsel and family contact while facing rigorous interrogations, the detainees mounted hunger strikes. Several committed suicide. In 2004, Amnesty International and the UN called to close the base down amidst Red Cross reports that aspects of the camp regime were tantamount to torture. The US released 420 prisoners, charging just three of them.

In January 2009, President Barack Obama promised to shut down Guantánamo's detention camps, ending what he termed 'a sad chapter in US history.' Bipartisan opposition in Congress prevented the shutdown. International condemnation of the force-feeding of some 100 inmates on hunger strike in May 2013 renewed pressure, yet Congress successively blocked all further attempts to move prisoners to the US for trial.

As of late 2016, 60 prisoners remained in Guantánamo. At least half of them are cleared to leave but, so far, the authorities have struggled to find a country to take them. Meanwhile, the Trump administration has announced plans to reinstate the base as a detainment center.

4Sleeping

The upside of Guantánamo having little tourism means that hotels come cheap here, though casas particulares are probably the best option.

Casa NorkaCASA PARTICULAR$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-35-45-12; Calixto García No 766, btwn Prado & Jesús del Sol; r CUC$25; as)

With just enough quirk to keep you interested (hello, Beyoncé and JLo posters). Rooms are large and well-kept and there's a very nice inner patio with plants and tiny pool.

Lissett Foster LaraCASA PARTICULAR$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-32-59-70; Pedro A Pérez No 761, btwn Prado & Jesús del Sol; r CUC$25; a)

Like many guantanameras, Lissett speaks perfect English and her house is polished, comfortable and decked out with the kind of plush fittings that wouldn't look amiss in a North American suburb. There are three rooms, including a delightful one on the substantial roof terrace.

Hotel BrasilHOTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-32-43-32; Calixto García btw Miro & Crombet; s/d CUC$13/20; a)

At these prices, how much can you expect? The 35 economical, clean rooms smell only slightly musty, a pleasant surprise given the dark reception area blaring reggaeton. In case you wondered, staff is indifferent.

Hotel GuantánamoHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-38-10-15; Calle 13 Norte, btwn Ahogados & 2 de Octubre; s/d incl breakfast CUC$54/64; paWs)

Hotel Guantánamo is something approaching comfortable. The generic rooms are clean, the pool has water in it, and there's a good lobby bar-cafe mixing up tempting mojitos and serving coffee. It's 1km northwest of the train station.

Hotel MartíHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-32-95-00; magdalaine.borges@hotelmarti.tur.cu; cnr Aguilera & Calixto García; s/d CUC$74/85; aW)

Overlooking Parque Martí, this somewhat refurbished colonial exudes some elegance, but buyer beware: check your room carefully for potential leaks (note water stains on the walls). Entertainment-wise, there's the rooftop-terrace restaurant with deafening music and the street-level bar circled by jinteras (female touts). Islazul sells discounted rooms through agencies.

5Eating

oSabor MeliánCARIBBEAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-32-44-22; Camilo Cienfuegos No 407; meals CUC$3-7; hnoon-midnight)

With a discreet entrance on a busy avenue, this locals' favorite features good service and quality Caribbean chow. Don't fear going face-to-face with the whole fried snapper – under crisp skin the meat is incredibly moist. Less inspiring is the dark, air-conditioned interior with original art and reggaeton videos.

Restaurante 1870CUBAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-32-05-40; Flor Crombet; meals CUC$2-5; h7am-9am, noon-3pm & 6-11pm)

If not for this place opposite Parque Martí, Guantánamo's colonial heyday would go unnoticed. Climb a sweeping marble staircase to the plush balcony-bar gazing down on the main eating area. Prices are more than reasonable and the ropa vieja (shredded beef in a tangy sauce) is not bad. Dress code is no shorts or tank tops.

Restaurante GirasolesCARIBBEAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-38-41-78; Calle 15 Norte, cnr Ahogados; meals CUC$1-5; h10am-10pm)

A nude statue rather than a girasol (sunflower) marks the entrance to what is, by process of elimination, one of Guantánamo's best restaurants. Behind the Hotel Guantánamo, Girasoles serves up (albeit at a snail's pace) chicken and fish, occasionally in interesting sauces. The terrace is popular for an afternoon drink.

Bar-Restaurante OlimpiaBURGERS$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Calixto García & Aguilera; mains CUC$2; h9am-midnight)

A celebration of Guantánamo's remarkable Olympic Games performances, this bar-restaurant displays baseball shirts, athletics memorabilia and the boxing vest of three-time Olympic gold medalist Félix Savón (a local boy). Inside there's a small open patio and a mezzanine bar where you can enjoy beers and Cuban-style burgers, all with a vista of adjacent Parque Martí.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Casa de las Promociones Musicales 'La Guantanamera'CLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-32-72-66; Calixto García, btwn Flor Crombet & Emilio Giro; hhours vary)

Another well-maintained concert-orientated venue, with Thursday rap peñas (performances) and Sunday trova (traditional poetic singing) matinees.

La RuinaBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-32-95-65; cnr Calixto García & Emilio Giro; h9:30am-midnight)

This shell of a ruined colonial building has 9m ceilings and there are plenty of benches to prop you up after you've downed your nth beer. There's a popular karaoke scene for those with reality-TV ambitions. The bar menu's good for a snack lunch.

3Entertainment

Guantánamo bleeds music. The city's own distinctive musical culture is enshrined in a subgenre of son known as changüí.

oTumba Francesa PompadourLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Serafín Sánchez No 715; h9:30am-1pm, from 7pm 2nd & 4th Tue)

One of only three Tumba Francesa societies left in Cuba, this house, situated four blocks east of the train station, specializes in a unique form of Haitian-style dancing. Programs include mi tumba baile (dance) on Tuesdays, encuentro tradicional (traditional get-together) and peña campesina (country music). If closed, consult showtimes at the Casa de Changüí opposite.

Casa de ChangüíLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-32-41-78; Serafín Sánchez No 710, btwn N López & Jesús del Sol; h9am-noon, 2-6pm & 7pm-midnight Tue-Sun)

As primary pulpit for Guantánamo's indigenous music, this is the place to experience changüí and is a shrine to its main exponent, local timbalero (percussionist) Elio Revé. There's a small Sala de Historia museum onsite.

Casa Sandunga (ARTex)LIVE MUSIC

( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-35-54-99; Máximo Gómez No 1062; CUC$1; h8pm-1am Tue-Sun)

Housed in a royal-blue building on a quiet street, this spot for variety shows and humor is openly referred to as 'the place.'

Casa del SonLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-32-41-78; cnr Serafin Sánchez & Prado; h5pm-midnight)

A new venue for old music, this casa shares lovingly restored digs with the Casa de Changüí in Calle Serafin Sánchez, the city's boisterous 'music street.'

Casa de la TrovaLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Pedro Pérez & Flor Crombet; CUC$1; h9am-noon, 2-6pm & 7pm-midnight)

It's hard not to love this scene: a traditional music house with old men in Panama hats casting aside their arthritis to dance athletically.

Estadio Van TroiSPECTATOR SPORT

( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-32-71-13)

Baseball games are played from October to April at this stadium in Reparto San Justo, 1.5km south of the Servi-Cupet gas station. Despite a strong sporting tradition, Guantánamo – nicknamed Los Indios – are perennial underachievers who seldom make the play-offs.

8Information

Intenet Access

There's wi-fi in Parque Martí and on the surrounding pedestrian-only blocks.

Etecsa TelepuntoTELEPHONE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-32-78-78; cnr Aguilera & Los Maceos; internet per hour CUC$1.50; h8:30am-7:30pm)

Four computers plus hardly any tourists equals no queues. Sells wi-fi scratchcards.

Medical Services

Hospital Agostinho NetoHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-35-54-50; Carretera de El Salvador Km 1; h24hr)

This hospital at the west end of Plaza Mariana Grajales near Hotel Guantánamo will help foreigners in emergencies.

Farmacia InternacionalMEDICAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-35-11-29; Flor Crombet No 305, btwn Calixto García & Los Maceos; h9am-5pm)

Pharmacy on the northeast corner of Parque Martí.

Money

Banco de Crédito y ComercioBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-32-73-21; Calixto García, btwn Emilio Giro & Bartolomé Masó; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri)

One of two branches on this block, with ATM.

CadecaEXCHANGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-35-59-09; cnr Calixto García & Prado; h8am-4pm)

Money changing.

Post

Post OfficePOST

( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-38-20-11; Pedro A Pérez; h8am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Sat)

On the west side of Parque Martí.

Tourist Information

InfoturTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-35-19-93; infotur@guantanamo.infotur.tur.cu; Calixto García btwn Flor Crombet & Emilio Giro; h8:30am-5pm Mon-Sat)

Helpful tourist information office, closes for an (unspecified) hour for lunch.

Travel Agencies

HavanaturTRAVEL AGENCY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-32-63-65; Aguilera, btwn Calixto García & Los Maceos; h8am-noon & 1:30-4:30pm Mon-Fri, 8:30-11:30am Sat)

Travel agency.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Cubana ( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-35-54-53; Calixto García No 817) flies four times a week (CUC$159 one way, 2½ hours) from Havana to Mariana Grajales Airport (also known as Los Canos Airport). There are no international flights.

Bus

The rather inconveniently placed Terminal de Ómnibus (bus station) is 5km west of the center on the old road to Santiago (a continuation of Av Camilo Cienfuegos). A taxi from the Hotel Guantánamo should cost CUC$3 to CUC$4.

There are two daily Víazul ( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-32-96-40; www.viazul.com; bus terminal) buses to Baracoa (CUC$10, three hours, 3:30am and 9:30am) and one to Santiago de Cuba (CUC$6, 1¾ hours, 11:30pm).

Car

The Autopista Nacional to Santiago de Cuba ends near Embalse la Yaya, 25km west of Guantánamo, where the road joins the Carretera Central (work to extend this road continues). To drive to Guantánamo from Santiago de Cuba, follow the Autopista Nacional north about 12km to the top of the grade, then take the first turn to the right. Signposts are sporadic and vague, so take a good map and keep alert.

Train

The train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-32-55-18; Pedro A Pérez; trains to Havana CUC$32), several blocks north of Parque Martí, has one departure for Havana (CUC$32, 19 hours) every fourth day via Camagüey, Ciego de Ávila, Santa Clara and Matanzas. Purchase tickets in the morning of the day the train departs at the office on Pedro A Pérez.

Truck

Trucks to Santiago de Cuba and Baracoa leave from the Terminal de Ómnibus and allow you to disembark in the smaller towns in between.

Trucks for Moa park on the road to El Salvador north of town near the entrance to the Autopista.

Cost for any trip is generally CUC$1 or less.

8Getting Around

Taxis hang out around Parque Martí. Bus 48 (20 centavos) runs between the center and the Hotel Guantánamo every 40 minutes or so. There are also plenty of bici-taxis ( GOOGLE MAP ; around CUC$2).

South Coast

The long, dry coastal road from Guantánamo to the island's eastern extremity, Punta de Maisí, is Cuba's spectacular semidesert region, where cacti nestle on rocky ocean terraces and prickly aloe vera pokes out from the scrub. Several little stone beaches between Playa Yacabo and Cajobabo make refreshing pit stops for those with time to linger, while the diverse roadside scenery – punctuated at intervals by rugged purple mountains and impossibly verdant riverside oases – impresses throughout.

1Sights

Playita de CajobaboBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

Cajobabo's main beach is stony and flanked by dramatic cliffs, but nonetheless makes a good snorkeling spot. Follow the road at its far end over a headland and the asphalt deadends at another beach. Walk east along this beach for 400m and you'll come to a boat-shaped monument commemorating the spot where José Martí landed in 1895 to launch the Second War of Independence.

Martí and Gómez arrived in a rowing boat with four others at 10pm on the night of April 11. The disembarkation served as inspiration for Fidel Castro's subsequent landing in Granma 61 years later.

Museo de 11 AbrilMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-88-63-15; h8am-noon & 1:30-5:30pm)F

Set in a tiny casa on the approach road to Cajobabo beach is the former home of Salustiano Leyva who, at the age of 11 in 1895, helped the freshly landed José Martí and Máximo Gómez to rest and plan their subsequent march west. The museum charts the events with maps and mementos. Leyva lived into the 1970s and was one of the few people to have met both Martí and Castro.

2Activities

oLa FarolaSCENIC DRIVE

( GOOGLE MAP )

One of the seven modern engineering marvels of modern Cuba, the so-called 'Lighthouse road' runs 55km from Cajobabo all the way to Baracoa, connecting cacti-sprinkled semidesert with lush rain forest. There are soaring pines and a lookout at its highest point, Alto de Cotilla.

4Sleeping

Campismo CajobaboCABIN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-88-63-04; CUC$12)

These rustic cabins at Cajobabo beach are reserved through Cubamar (Campismo Popular; GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-27-76; comercial.baracoa@campismopopular.cu; Martí No 225) in Baracoa

8Getting There & Away

Buses between Guantanamo and Baracoa ply this road twice daily; otherwise you can get here via bicycle, private transportation or a taxi.

Punta de Maisí

From Cajobabo, the coastal road continues 51km northeast to La Máquina. As far as Jauco, the road is good; thereafter less so. Coming from Baracoa to La Máquina (55km), it's a good road as far as Sabana, then rough in places from Sabana to La Máquina. Either way, La Máquina is the starting point of the very rough, 13km track down to Punta de Maisí. It's best covered in a 4WD but also popular with cyclists.

This is Cuba's easternmost point and there's a lighthouse (1862) and a small, fine white-sand beach. You can see Haiti 70km away on a clear day.

After a long time as an off-limits military zone, the Maisí region has opened up to travelers with day tours to the lighthouse, camping and a new hotel in 2017.

Jeep safaris (CUC$64 per person, two-person minimum) are run by Infotur in Baracoa.

For somewhere to stay, the new Islazul hotel, Faro de Maisí (%21-68-96-20; adrian.rivas@hotelgtmo.tur.cu; La Asunción s/n; r incl breakfast $40-60; aW), with an onsite restaurant is a decent choice in an outstanding location. Modern rooms feature generic graphic images, TVs and phones. Superior rooms have mini fridges with refreshments.

8Getting There & Away

Visitors can come on a day tour from Baracoa or by private 4WD transportation.

Boca de Yumurí

Five kilometers south of Baracoa a road branches east off La Farola and travels 28km along the coast to Boca de Yumurí at the mouth of Río Yumurí. Near the bridge over the river is the Túnel de los Alemanes (German Tunnel), an amazing natural arch of trees and foliage. Though lovely, the dark-sand beach here has become the day trip from Baracoa. Hustlers hard-sell fried-fish meals, while other people peddle colorful land snails called polymitas. They are endangered as a result of their wholesale harvesting for tourists, so refuse all offers.

2Activities

Boca de Yumurí makes a superb bike jaunt from Baracoa (56km round-trip): hot but smooth and flat with great views and many potential stopovers (try Playa Bariguá at Km 25). You can arrange bikes in Baracoa – ask at your casa particular.

Boat TaxisBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; CUC$3)

From beneath the bridge at the mouth of Río Yumurí, boat taxis head 400m upstream where the steep river banks narrow into a haunting natural gorge. You can arrange to be dropped off here for a picnic on an island in the river delta.

Playa CajuajoHIKING

( GOOGLE MAP )

Near Boca de Yumurí, this little-visited sandy expanse is accessible via a 5km trail from the Río Mata through biologically diverse woodland. Ecotur in Baracoa runs trips here.

5Eating

Restaurant TatoSEAFOOD$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; mains CUC$5-9; h8am-midnight)

On delightful little Playa Mangalito, this beach-abutting restaurant will prepare you fresh octopus caught in the shallows just yards from your plate.

8Getting There & Away

Visitors can access this area via rental car or taxi from Baracoa, though taxis usually cost more than a tour. Organize an excursion either privately or with Cubatur (CUC$22).

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

KIRIBá & NENGóN: THE ROOTS OF SON

Those on a mission to unravel the complex family tree of Cuban music shouldn't skip the tiny village of Güirito, 18km southeast of Baracoa. Herein lie two of the primitive precursors to Cuba’s national music, son. While son and its rhythmic cousin, salsa, got exported around the world, the orphic genres of kiribá and nengón never got much further than Güirito.

So what exactly are these rugged and rootsy musical forms? Both kiribá and nengón are rustic antecedents of son (rather than variants) passed down orally from generation to generation since the First Independence War in the mid-19th century. Thanks to a local revival in 1982, kiribá and nengón are still widely practiced in Güirito by a 21-person music and dance group who have meticulously safeguarded the old traditions.

Kiribá’s fast beat and relatively free choreography incorporates a couples’ dance in which partners move together in broad circular steps. Nengón is a slower dance with a distinctive foot-dragging motion said to imitate erstwhile farm-workers who stamped their feet on dried coffee and cacao beans to grind them.

The accompanying music is invariably played by a septet consisting of tres (Cuban-style guitar), güiro (a ridged, hollowed-out gourd), claves, marimbula, bongos, maracas and voice. Nengón has 22 registered songs but in kiribá singers make up the words as they go along. The costumes worn at musical gatherings are equally distinctive. Women wear white blouses and long flower-patterned skirts. Men wear guayabera (Caribbean dress) shirts and straw yarey hats, and carry handkerchiefs.

On most Saturday afternoons the group gets together in Güirito for a traditional fiesta, an informal affair with a wide interchange of Baracoan food. There’s bacán (crab and plantain tamales), frangollo (dried banana mixed with sugar and wrapped in a banana leaf) and rice cooked inside the stomach of a whole roasted pig. Fuelled by rum drawn from oak barrels, the dancing can go on until the small hours. Anyone is welcome.

Baracoa

Pop 82,000

Beguiling, outlandish and surreal, Baracoa's essence is addictive. On the wet and windy side of the Cuchillos del Toa mountains, Cuba’s oldest and most isolated town exudes original atmosphere.

Feast your eyes upon deep green foliage that's wonderfully abundant after the stark aridity of Guantánamo’s south coast. Delve into fantastical legends, and acquaint yourself with an unorthodox cast of local characters. There’s Cayamba, the self-styled ‘Guerrilla troubadour’ who once claimed he was ‘the man with the ugliest voice in the world;’ La Rusa, an aristocratic Russian émigré who inspired a novel by magic-realist author Alejo Carpentier; and Enriqueta Faber, a French woman who passed herself off as a man to practice as a doctor and marry a local heiress in Baracoa’s cathedral in 1819 – likely Cuba’s first same-sex marriage. Baracoa – what would Cuba be without you?

While 2016's Hurricane Matthew hit Baracoa hard, the town is already on the rebound.

Baracoa

1Sights

1Bust of HatueyC2

2Casa del CacaoB2

3Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la AsunciónC3

El Castillo de SeborucoA2

2Activities, Courses & Tours

4EcoturC3

4Sleeping

5Casa Colonial LucyC3

6Casa Colonial Ykira MahiquezC3

7Casa YamicelC2

8Hostal 1511B3

9Hostal la HabaneraB2

10Hostal NilsonC2

11Hotel El CastilloA2

12Hotel la RusaD2

13Hotel Río MielD2

14Isabel Castro VilatoA2

15La CasonaC3

5Eating

16Cafetería el ParqueC2

17Dorado CaféC3

18El Buen SaborB4

Restaurante Las Terrazas Casa NilsonC2

6Drinking & Nightlife

19El RanchónA5

3Entertainment

20Casa de la CulturaB2

21Casa de la Trova Victorino RodríguezC2

7Shopping

22ARTexD3

23Taller MirateB2

1Sights

In Town

oMuseo Arqueológico 'La Cueva del Paraíso'MUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; Moncada; CUC$3; h8am-5pm)

Baracoa's most impressive museum, Las Cuevas del Paraíso is a series of caves that were once Taíno burial chambers. Among nearly 2000 authentic Taíno pieces are unearthed skeletons, ceramics, 3000-year-old petroglyphs and a replica of the Ídolo de Tabaco, a sculpture found in Maisí in 1903 and considered to be one of the most important Taíno finds in the Caribbean.

One of the staff will enthusiastically show you around. The museum is 800m southeast of Hotel El Castillo. Tickets can be purchased at Ecotur.

Casa del CacaoMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-21-25; Antonio Maceo, btwn Maraví & Frank País; h7am-11pm)F

Baracoa, you will quickly ascertain (via your nose), is the center of Cuba's chocolate industry; cocoa is grown hereabouts and subsequently chocolate-ized in a local factory. Thus this museum with cafe chronicles the history of cacao and its importance in eastern Cuba as well as offering cups full of the pure, thick stuff (hot or cold) in a pleasant indoor cafe. It also sells bars of dark, agreeably bitter Baracoan chocolate.

Fuerte MatachínFORT

(Museo Municipal; GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-21-22; cnr José Martí & Malecón; CUC$1; h8am-noon & 2-6pm)

Baracoa is protected by a trio of muscular Spanish forts. This one, built in 1802 at the southern entrance to town, houses the Museo Municipal. The small but beautiful building showcases an engaging chronology of Cuba's oldest settlement including polymita snail shells, the story of Che Guevara and the chocolate factory, and the particular strand of music Baracoa gave birth to: kiribá, a forefather of son.

There are also exhibits relating to Magdalena Menasse (née Rovieskuya, 'La Rusa'), after whom Alejo Carpentier based his famous book, La Consagración de la Primavera (The Rite of Spring).

El Castillo de SeborucoFORT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Loma del Paraíso)

Baracoa's highest fort was begun by the Spanish in 1739 and finished by the Americans in 1900. Barely recognizable as a fort these days, it serves as Hotel El Castillo. There's an excellent view of El Yunque's flat top over the shimmering swimming pool. A steep stairway at the southwest end of Calle Frank País climbs directly up.

Bust of HatueySTATUE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Antonio Maceo)

Facing the cathedral is the Bust of Hatuey, a rebellious Indian cacique (chief) who was burned at the stake near Baracoa in 1512 after refusing to convert to Catholicism.

Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la AsunciónCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-30-05; Antonio Maceo No 152; h7-11am & 4-9pm Tue-Sun)

After years of neglect, Baracoa's hurricane-battered historic cathedral has been lovingly restored using primarily Italian funding. There's been a building on this site since the 16th century, though this present, much-altered, incarnation dates from 1833.

The church's most famous artifact is the priceless Cruz de la Parra, the only survivor of 29 wooden crosses erected by Columbus in Cuba on his first voyage in 1492. Carbon dating has authenticated the age of the cross (it dates from the late 1400s), but has indicated it was originally made out of indigenous Cuban wood, thus disproving the legend that Columbus brought the cross from Europe.

Fuerte de la PuntaFORT

( GOOGLE MAP )

This Spanish fort has watched over the harbor entrance at the northwestern end of town since 1803. The super-thick, hurricane-resistant walls now hide a restaurant.

Outside Town

Parque Natural MajayaraPARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; CUC$2, lookout CUC$5)S

Southeast of town in the Parque Natural Majayara are a couple of magical hikes and swimming opportunities plus an archaeological trail in the grounds of a lush family farm. It's a very low-key, DIY diversion. Alternatively, Ecotur leads trips here (CUC$20).

Passing the Fuerte Matachín, hike southeast past the baseball stadium and along the dark-sand beach for 20 minutes to the Río Miel, where a long low bridge crosses the river.

On the other side, bear left following a track up through a cluster of rustic houses to another junction. A guard-post here is sometimes staffed by a park official collecting entry fees. Turn left again and continue along the vehicle track until the houses clear and you see a signposted, single-track path leading off left to Playa Blanca, an idyllic spot for a picnic.

Staying straight on the track, you'll come to a trio of wooden homesteads. The third of these houses belongs to the Fuentes family. For a donation, Señor Fuentes will lead you on a hike to his family finca, where you can stop for coffee and tropical fruit. Further on he'll show you the Cueva de Aguas, a cave with a sparkling, freshwater swimming hole inside. Tracking back up the hillside you'll come to an archaeological trail with more caves and marvelous ocean views.

Playa DuabaBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

Heading north on the Moa road, take the Hotel Porto Santo/airport turnoff and continue for 2km past the airport runway to a black-sand beach at the river mouth where Antonio Maceo, Flor Crombet and others landed in 1895 to start the Second War of Independence. There's a campismo (cheap rustic accommodation), memorial monument and close-up views of El Yunque, though the beach itself isn't sunbathing territory.

TTours

Organized tours are a good way to view Baracoa's hard-to-reach outlying sights, and the Cubatur ( GOOGLE MAP ; %61-32-83-42; Antonio Maceo No 181; h8am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) and Ecotur ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-24-78; Antonio Maceo s/n; h8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Sat) offices on Plaza Independencia can book excursions, including to El Yunque (CUC$16 to CUC$20), Parque Nacional Alejandro de Humboldt (CUC$22 to CUC$25) and Boca de Yumurí (CUC$22).

oJosé Ángel Delfino PérezTOURS

(%21-64-13-67, 54-25-58-19; joseguia@nauta.cu; day tours CUC$25-27)

Walking plant encyclopedia and enthusiastic geological expert, José has to be Baracoa's best private guide. His professional tours visit El Yunque, Punta de Maisí, Humboldt and – best of all – Boca de Yumurí, a trip that takes in cacao plantations, chocolate tastings and visits to isolated beaches. Per-person prices drop for larger groups.

Ask to see José's ID, as he has some unwelcome local impersonators. You can contact him by phone, email or at the casa particular of Nilson Abad Guilaré.

zFestivals & Events

oSemana de la Cultura BaracoesaCULTURAL

(hlate Mar)

Locals hit the streets to celebrate the 1895 landing of Antonio Maceo. There are feasts and fairs featuring genuine traditions: musical styles and dancing influenced by both indigenous and modern rhythms. It ends with an April 1st pilgrimage.

4Sleeping

oCasa Colonial Ykira MahiquezCASA PARTICULAR$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-38-81; ykiram@nauta.cu; Antonio Maceo No 168A, btwn Ciro Frías & Céspedes; r CUC$25; a)

Welcoming and hospitable, Ykira is Baracoa's premier hostess. She also serves a mean dinner made with homegrown herbs. With a lovely mural lining the entrance walk, there are two rooms set in the bosom of family life but with plenty of personal space. Guests enjoy terraces and a mirador (viewpoint) with sea views.

oLa CasonaCASA PARTICULAR$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-21-33; Félix Ruenes No 1 Altos; r CUC$20-25; a)

Rarely is a city's most central casa among its best, but thus have the young hosts made this place: two spotless 2nd-floor rooms and a knockout terrace where you can enjoy a cocktail or two.

Isabel Castro VilatoCASA PARTICULAR$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %53-55-36-34, 21-64-22-67; rosellocastro@gmail.com; Mariana Grajales No 35; r CUC$25; pa)

You can't tell from the busy street outside, but this elegant green clapboard-and-stone house has lovely country style and a tranquil atmosphere. There are four massive rooms with minibars and a beautiful backyard garden growing breakfast provisions for your table. The hosts are helpful and wonderful. Unusually for Baracoa, there's a secure garage/car parking space.

Casa YamicelCASA PARTICULAR$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-11-18; ncc.gtm@infomed.sld.cu; Martí No 145A, btwn Pelayo & Ciro Frias; r CUC$25, mains CUC$6-12; a)

Doctor-proprietors that make killer mojitos? You'd better believe it. This colonial house offers four pleasant rooms with gorgeous wooden window bars (the best are on the top floor). There's wonderful hospitality, good meals (mains CUC$6 to CUC$12) and a roof terrace with reviving sea breezes.

Casa DorkisCASA PARTICULAR$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-34-51, 52-38-53-16; dorkistd72@yahoo.es; Flor Crombet #58 Altos; r CUC$25; a)

Though a bit of a walk from the plaza, this is one of your best bets for lodging. This quiet 2nd-story apartment has clean rooms with lovely decor flooded with natural light. There's an azulejo-tiled terrace with Atlantic views – ideal for a couple of days of lazy relaxation.

Casa Colonial LucyCASA PARTICULAR$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-35-48; astralsol36@gmail.com; Céspedes No 29, btwn Rubert López & Antonio Maceo; r CUC$20; a)

This welcoming 1840 home effuses character with patios, porches and flowering begonias, though cleanliness could score a little higher. There are two rooms here as well as terraces on different levels, and the atmosphere is quiet and secluded. Lucy's son speaks four languages and offers salsa lessons.

Hostal NilsonCASA PARTICULAR$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-31-23, 52-71-85-56; www.hostalnilson.baracoa.co; Flor Crombet No 143, btwn Ciro Frías & Pelayo Cuervo; d CUC$20-25, ste CUC$35-50; a)

A super clean house with three quirky rooms stacked on several floors. Ideal for close groups or families, a spacious, very private suite features a bathroom with two showers and two toilets, face-to-face. No waiting at the door here! Above the restaurant there's a roof terrace with sea views.

Hostal 1511HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-57-00; reservas@gavbcoa.co.cu; Ciro Frías, btwn Rubert López & Maceo; s/d CUC$59/64; aW)

The year 1511 is Baracoa's foundation date, and this diminutive place is a landmark, too, for offering dead-central accommodations with an abundant colonial vibe. The model ship in the lobby sets the tone for an overtly nautical decor that works best in the more charming upstairs rooms.

Hostal la HabaneraHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-52-73; Antonio Maceo No 126; s/d CUC$59/64; aW)

Atmospheric and inviting in a way only Baracoa can muster, La Habanera sits in a restored and regularly repainted colonial mansion. The four front bedrooms share a street-facing balcony replete with tiled floor and rocking chairs: perfect for imbibing that quintessential Baracoa ambience (street-hawkers, hip-gyrating music, and seafood a-frying in the restaurants).

The downstairs lobby has a bar, a restaurant and a handy Gaviota tour desk.

Hotel El CastilloHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-52-24; reservas@gavbcoa.co.cu; Loma del Paraíso; s/d CUC$59/80; paWs)

Recline like a colonial-era conquistador in this historic fort-turned-hotel in the hilltop Castillo de Seboruco. Choose your room well: there's some wear and tear, though conquistadors never boasted the privilege of a swimming pool or housekeeping fashioning towels into ships and swans. The 28 newer rooms in a separate block offer jaw-dropping El Yunque views.

Hotel Río MielHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-12-07; reservas@gavbcoa.co.cu; Ave Malecón, cnr Ciro Frias; s/d CUC$59/64; aW)

Stylish and sturdy, this hotel withstood Hurricane Matthew with honors. It's on the Malecón where it faces some of the most inclement weather in Cuba. Run by Gaviota, the service can be slack, but there are remodeled rooms with large safes that fit a laptop.

Hotel Porto SantoHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-51-06; ejecutivo.comercial@gavbcoa.co.cu; Carretera del Aeropuerto; s/d CUC$59/80; paWs)

On the bay where Columbus allegedly planted his first cross is this peaceful, well-integrated low-rise hotel. Situated 4km from the town center and 200m from the airport, there are 36 more-than-adequate rooms all within earshot of the sea. A steep stairway leads down to a tiny, wave-lashed beach. Unfortunately, Hurricane Matthew downed most of the palms shading it.

Hotel la RusaHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-30-11; reservas@gavbcoa.co.cu; Máximo Gómez No 161; s/d CUC$46/55; aW)

Russian émigré Magdalena Rovieskuya once posted aid to Castro's rebels up in the Sierra Maestra. La Rusa hit Baracoa in the 1930s, built a seafront hotel and welcomed guests like Errol Flynn, Che Guevara and Fidel Castro. After her death in 1978, it became a more modest government-run joint with sad little single beds and a rundown lobby.

5Eating

Dorado CaféCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %52-38-53-16; Martí No 171; snacks CUC$3; h10am-2pm & 6-10pm)

Small private cafe in the center of Baracoa that sells pizza, sandwiches and the like.

Cafetería el ParqueFAST FOOD$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-12-06; Antonio Maceo No 142; snacks CUC$1-3; h24hr; W)

The favored meeting place of just about everyone in town, you're bound to end up at this open terrace at some point, if only to crack open a Bucanero beer and tune into the wi-fi.

oRestaurante Las Terrazas Casa NilsonCUBAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-31-23; Flor Crombet No 143, btwn Ciro Frías & Pelayo Cuervo; meals CUC$6-15; hnoon-3pm & 6:30-11pm)

Up above his house on a spectacular two-level terrace decorated in quirky Afro-Caribbean style, owner Nilson serves some of the best authentic Baracoan food in town, and hence Cuba. You can't miss with wonderfully rich pescado con leche de coco (fish fillet in coconut milk) or the melt-in-your-mouth octopus with basil ink with homemade patacon guisado, a plantain dish. Unforgettable!

Reserve ahead to ensure a table.

oEl Buen SaborCUBAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-14-00; Calixto García No 134 Altos; meals CUC$6-15; hnoon-midnight)

Served on a spotless and breezy upstairs terrace, meals come with salad, soup and side included. You can expect the best of Baracoan cuisine at this private restaurant, including swordfish in a coconut sauce, bacán (raw green plantain melded with crabmeat and wrapped in a banana leaf) and chocolate-y deserts. Service is attentive.

oRestaurante la PuntaCARIBBEAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-14-80; Fuerte de la Punta; meals CUC$5-12; h10am-11pm)

Cooled by Atlantic breezes (and the occasional full-on gale), the Gaviota-run La Punta aims to impress with well-prepared, garnished food in the lovely historical surrounds of the La Punta fort. Go on a Saturday night for live music.

BARACOA'S UNIQUE FOOD CULTURE

Unlike more complex cuisines, Cuban cooking doesn't really have a strong regional identity, at least not until you arrive in Baracoa. Here everything – including the food – is different. Home to the country's most fickle weather, Baracoa has used its wet microclimate and geographic isolation to jazz up notoriously unambitious Cuban cuisine with spices, sugar, exotic fruits and coconut. Fish anchors most menus yet even the seafood can pull some surprises. Count on tasting tiny tadpole-like teti fish drawn from the Río Toa between July to January during a waning moon.

The biggest taste explosion is a locally concocted coconut sauce known as lechita, a mixture of coconut milk, tomato sauce, garlic and a medley of spices best served over prawns, aguja (swordfish) or dorado. Other main-course accompaniments include bacán, raw green plantain melded with crabmeat and wrapped in a banana leaf, or frangollo, a similar concoction where the ground bananas are mixed with sugar.

Sweets are another Baracoa tour de force thanks largely to the ubiquity of the cocoa plant and the presence of the famous Che Guevara chocolate factory. Baracoan chocolate is sold all over the island, but the local Casa del Cacao is an obvious sampling point. You're likely to get it for breakfast in your casa particular, stirred into a local hot-chocolate drink made with banana powder known as chorote.

Baracoa's most unique culinary invention is undoubtedly cucurucho, a delicate mix of dried coconut, sugar, honey, papaya, guayaba, mandarin and nuts (no concoction is ever quite alike) that is wrapped in an ecologically friendly palm frond. The best stuff is sold by the campesinos on La Farola coming into town from Guantánamo, a stop usually made by buses.

6Drinking & Nightlife

El RanchónCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-23-64; CUC$1; hfrom 9pm)

Atop a long flight of stairs at the western end of Coroneles Galano, popular El Ranchón mixes an exhilarating hilltop setting with taped disco and salsa music and legions of resident jinteras (female touts). Watch your step on the way down – it's a scary 146-step drunken tumble.

3Entertainment

oCasa de la Trova Victorino RodríguezTRADITIONAL MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Antonio Maceo No 149A; CUC$1; hmatinee 5:30pm, 9pm-midnight)

Cuba's smallest, zaniest, wildest and most atmospheric casa de la trova (trova house) rocks nightly to the voodoo-like rhythms of changüí-son. One night the average age of the band is 85, the next it's 22. The common denominator? It's all good. Matinees are usually free. Order a mojito in a jam jar and join in the show.

Casa de la CulturaCULTURAL CENTER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-23-64; Antonio Maceo No 124, btwn Frank País & Maraví)

This venue does a wide variety of shows including some good rumba incorporating the textbook Cuban styles of guaguancó, yambú and columbia (subgenres of rumba). Go prepared for mucho audience participation. There's a good spectaculo (show) on the terrace, La Terraza, every Saturday at 11pm: expect rumba, Benny Moré, and the local hairdresser singing Omara Portuondo.

Estadio Manuel Fuentes BorgesBASEBALL

( GOOGLE MAP )

Pummeled by Hurricane Matthew, the stadium, now mostly a ruin, may or may not host baseball games from October to April. Literally on the beach, it's possibly the only ground in Cuba where players come in to bat with the taste of fresh sea spray on their lips.

7Shopping

Interesting art is easy to find in Baracoa and, like most things in this whimsical seaside town, it has its own distinctive flavor.

Taller MirateART

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Antonio Maceo; h10am-8pm)

An artist's co-op where you'll always find one of the young creative painters sitting at a palette in the window. The very local painting style is best described as Gauguin meets Van Gogh in the pages of a Gabriel García Márquez novel.

ARTexGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-53-73; José Martí No 197; h9am-4:30pm Mon-Sat)

For the usual tourist trinkets, check out this place.

8Information

Internet Access

There's wi-fi access on the Plaza Independencia.

Etecsa TelepuntoINTERNET

( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-31-82; Antonio Maceo No 182; internet per hr CUC$1.50; h9am-7pm)

Sells wi-fi internet scratchcards and offers internet on computer terminals. Little to no line.

Medical Services

Clínica InternacionalMEDICAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-10-37; cnr José Martí & Roberto Reyes; h8am-8pm)

A newish place that treats foreigners; there's also a hospital 2km out of town on the road to Guantánamo.

Money

CadecaBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-53-45; José Martí No 241; h8:15am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8:15am-11:30am Sat & Sun)

Short queues for currency exchange.

Banco Popular de AhorroBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-52-09; José Martí No 166; h8-11:30am & 2-4:30pm Mon-Fri)

Has an ATM.

Banco de Crédito y ComercioBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; Antonio Maceo No 99; h8am-2:30pm Mon-Fri)

Has an ATM.

Post

The post office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-24-15; Antonio Maceo No 136; h8am-8pm) is located near the main plaza.

Tourist Information

Tour destinations and roads may have been affected by Hurricane Matthew, so ask ahead before traveling further afield.

InfoturTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-17-81; Antonio Maceo No 129a, btwn Frank País & Maraví; h8:30am-noon & 1-4:45pm Mon-Sat)

Very helpful.

Travel Agencies

Gaviota ToursTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-51-64; Cafeteria El Parque; h8am-noon, 2-6pm Mon-Sat)

Helpful in arranging stays at Gaviota properties, airline tickets and general tours.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Gustavo Rizo Airport (airport code BCA) is 4km northwest of the town, just behind the Hotel Porto Santo. Book flights to Havana with one of the travel agencies.

The planes (and buses) out of Baracoa can be fully booked, so don't arrive on a tight schedule without outbound reservations.

Bus

The National Bus Station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-38-80; cnr Av Los Mártires & José Martí) has service with Víazul ( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-38-80) to Guantánamo and Santiago de Cuba. Reserve your tickets a day in advance (more in high season).

The bus departs for Santiago (CUC$15, five hours) at 8:15am, stopping in Guántanamo. A later bus at 2pm goes to Guantánamo (CUC$10, three hours) only.

Truck

Trucks to Moa (departures from 6am) leave from the National Bus Station, traveling along the very bumpy road northwest.

8Getting Around

The best way to get to and from the airport is by taxi (CUC$8 to CUC$10), or bici-taxi (CUC$5) if you're traveling light.

There's a helpful Via Gaviota ( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-16-65) car-rental office at the airport. The Servi-Cupet gas station ( GOOGLE MAP ; José Martí; h24hr) is at the entrance to town 4km from the center, on the road to Guantánamo. If you're driving to Havana, note that the northern route through Moa and Holguín is the most direct but the road disintegrates rapidly after Playa Maguana – for this reason taxi prices can be astronomical. Most locals prefer the La Farola route.

Bici-taxis around Baracoa charge foreigners CUC$2 to CUC$5.

Most casas particulares will be able to procure you a bicycle (CUC$5 per day). The ultimate bike ride is the 20km ramble down to Playa Maguana, one of the most scenic roads in Cuba. Or rent mopeds for CUC$25 at either Gaviota or Hotel El Castillo.

Northwest of Baracoa

The rutted road heading out of town toward Moa is a green paradise flecked with palm groves, rustic farmsteads and serendipitous glimpses of the ocean. There's windswept beaches, coffee farms and rain forest. In 2016, Hurricane Matthew hit this area hard, knocking a principle bridge out, but access has been restored.

Much of this region lies within the Cuchillas Toa Unesco Biosphere Reserve, an area of 2083 sq km that incorporates the Alejandro de Humboldt World Heritage Site. Here is Cuba's largest rain forest, with many precious hardwoods and a high number of endemic species.

1Sights

oEl YunqueMOUNTAIN

( GOOGLE MAP ; CUC$13)

Baracoa's rite of passage is the 8km (up and down) hike to the top of this moody, mysterious mountain. Views from the summit (575m) and the flora and birdlife along the way are stupendous. Bank on seeing tocororo (Cuba's national bird), zunzún (the world's smallest bird), butterflies and polymitas (colorful endangered snails). The hike is hot (bring 2L of water) and usually muddy. It starts from the campismo 3km past the Finca Duaba (4km from the Baracoa–Moa road).

All visits must be guided. Cubatur offers this tour almost daily (CUC$16 person, minimum four people). The fee covers admission, guide, transport and a sandwich. If you're not up to bagging the peak itself, ask Ecotur about the 7km Sendero Juncal-Rencontra that bisects fruit plantations and rain forest between the Duaba and Toa rivers.

Río ToaRIVER

( GOOGLE MAP )

Ten kilometers northwest of Baracoa, the Toa is the third-longest river on the north coast of Cuba and the country's most voluminous. It's also an important bird and plant habitat. Cocoa trees and ubiquitous coconut palms grow in the Valle de Toa.

A vast hydroelectric project on the Río Toa was abandoned after a persuasive campaign led by the Fundación de la Naturaleza y El Hombre convinced authorities it would do irreparable ecological damage; engineering and economic reasons also played a part.

Playa MaguanaBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

There's some magic in this relatively undeveloped Caribbean beach where fun-seeking Cubans roll up in their vintage American cars and haul their prized music boxes out of the boot. Beyond a food shack there's little infrastructure here and that's part of the attraction. Watch your valuables!

Finca DuabaFARM

( GOOGLE MAP ; CUC$2; h8am-7pm)S

Five kilometers out of Baracoa on the road to Moa and then 1km inland, Finca Duaba offers a fleeting taste of the Baracoan countryside. It's a verdant farm surrounded with profuse tropical plants and embellished with a short cacao (cocoa) trail that explains the history and characteristics of chocolate. There's also a good ranchón-style restaurant and the opportunity to swim in the Río Duaba. A bici-taxi can drop you at the road junction.

4Sleeping

Finca la EsperanzaFARMSTAY$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %52-18-07-35; r incl breakfast CUC$13, lunch CUC$8)

Located at Km 8 on the Baracoa–Moa road, this lovely farmstay also offers meals and excursions. There are boat rides (CUC$2) and walks on the Sendero Cayo los Chinos (CUC$5) trail.

Campismo DuabaCABIN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; CUC$18)

A recent addition with 10 lovely dollhouse cabins with bathrooms and air-conditioning. From Baracoa, it's on the road to Moa just before the Río Duaba.

Campismo el YunqueCABIN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-52-62; r CUC$12)

Simple Cuban-style campismo offering very basic cabins at the end of the Finca Duaba road, 9km outside of Baracoa. The El Yunque hike starts here.

oVilla MaguanaHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %21-64-12-04; Carretera a Moa Km 20; s/d CUC$86/103; pa)

Knocking the socks off any Cuban all-inclusive resort is this delightful place 22km north of Baracoa. Four rustic wooden villas house 16 rooms in total. Guarded by two rocky promontories, it clings precariously to Maguana's famously dreamy setting above a bite-sized scoop of sand. There's a restaurant and amenities such as satellite TV, fridge and air-con.

5Eating

Playa Maguana Snack BarCARIBBEAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; snacks CUC$2-5; h9am-5pm)

Right on the beach, this open-sided snack bar is good for cheese sandwiches, beer and rum.

Rancho ToaCUBAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; meals CUC$10-12, boat rides CUC$5-10)

A Palmares restaurant reached via a right-hand turnoff just before the Toa bridge. You can organize boat or kayak trips here and watch acrobatic Baracoans scale cocotero (coconut palms). A traditional Cuban feast of whole roast pig is available if you can rustle up enough people (eight, usually).

This attraction closed after Hurricane Matthew but should be operational again.

8Getting There & Away

A Moa-bound truck can drop you in this area or you can go via taxi to Playa Maguana (around CUC$25 round-trip), Campismo el Yunque (CUC$18 round-trip) and other destinations.

Parque Nacional Alejandro de Humboldt

These steep pine-clad mountains and creeping morning mists guard an astonishing ecosystem that's unmatched in the Caribbean. Cuba's most dramatic and diverse national park was named after German naturalist-explorer Alexander von Humboldt who first visited in 1801. It was designated a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2001 as 'one of the most biologically diverse tropical island sites on earth.'

Perched above Bahía de Taco, 40km northwest of Baracoa, lies 600-odd sq km of pristine forest and 2641 hectares of lagoon and mangroves. With 1000 flowering plant species and 145 ferns, it's the Caribbean's most diverse plant habitat. The toxic nature of the underlying rocks in the area has forced plants to survive by adaptation. As a result, 70% of the plants are endemic, as are nearly all 20 species of amphibians, 45% of the reptiles and many birds. Endangered bird species include Cuban Amazon parrots, hook-billed kites and ivory-billed woodpeckers.

2Activities

The park has a network of trails leading to waterfalls, a mirador (lookout) and a massive karst cave system around the Farallones de Moa. Four trails are currently open to the public, taking in only a tiny segment of the park's 594 sq km. Typically, you can't just wander around on your own.

Ecotur recently added 4WD and ATV excursions. The longest hike features an eight-hour reconnoiter deeper into the forest, featuring bird and orchid observation.

Each option is accompanied by a highly professional guide. If you're showing up independently, get to the visitor center before 10am to secure one. Prices range from CUC$5 to CUC$10, depending on the hike, but most people organize an excursion through Ecotur, Cubatur or Gaviota in Baracoa, which includes transport and a pit stop on Playa Maguana on the way back (CUC$24).

Hurricane Matthew passed through here, and as a result, some tour options might be curtailed for a period.

Balcón de IberiaHIKING

( GOOGLE MAP )

The park's most challenging loop (7km) bisects both agricultural land and pristine rain forest. It includes a swim in a natural pool near the Salto de Agua Maya waterfall.

Bahía de TacoHIKING

( GOOGLE MAP )

A circuit hike that incorporates a boat trip through the mangroves and the idyllic horseshoe-shaped bay, plus a 2km hike. Boats use a manatee-friendly motor developed by scientists here.

El RecreoWALKING

( GOOGLE MAP )

This trail is an easy 2km stroll around the bay.

8Information

Visitors CenterTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; Carretera a Moa; park entry CUC$10)

The small visitors center is staffed with biologists.

8Getting There & Away

The park visitors center is approximately halfway between Baracoa and Moa. You can arrange a tour through an agency in Baracoa or get here independently. The gorgeously scenic road is a collection of holes but passable in a hire car if driven with care. This road continues into Holguín province, improving just before Moa.

At present, a provisional bridge connects the park after hurricane damage, but this situation should improve.