Herbs: From the Garden
to Your Belly
As you delve further into growing herbs, you’ll be naturally enticed to try more exotic varieties and plants that you’ve never even heard of. There are so many herbs, countless flavors, and nearly limitless, divergent ways to prepare, alter, and subvert them—the possibilities are pretty near endless.
As you develop a relationship with the herbs you grow, don’t forget to take a new look at the old standbys now and again. Remove them from the same old context and find inspiration in other countries that use them to different effect. Sprinkle rosemary on something other than potatoes. Put fresh basil into ice cream instead of pasta. Pound, macerate, tear, or grind your favorite herb rather than chopping it. Char its leaves, taste its flowers, batter and fry it, or brew it into tea. Serve big sprigs of fresh herbs by the handful as a salad or an appetizer alongside salty cheese and warm bread where they can be appreciated as they are, as more than just a flavoring.
However you use your herbs, as a grower you’ve always got a leg up because fresh herbs are at their very best directly after picking. Even the average, everyday herb used in an average, everyday way is going to be a million times better than anything bought in a store.
The pages that follow include some of my favorite seasonal treats that are best made throughout the growing season with freshly picked herbs and flowers from the garden. I’ve also included a few less-than-usual delicacies that I hope will inspire you to try old flavors in new ways and new flavors in place of everyday staples.
Use these images of mint at various stages of preparation as a guide to chopping up herbs for recipes in this book. Clockwise from top left: one sprig; whole leaves; roughly chopped; chopped.
Wash leafy herbs that you are about to use and cook immediately or freeze, but don’t wash foliage that you plan to dry for long-term storage. No matter how good your drying efforts, wetting the leaves makes them dry brown and will only increase your chances of growing mold.
Rinse the caked-on mud from around knobby roots. Scrub gently with a brush to get inside the nooks and crannies. I don’t bother with little bits of dirt because it’s easy enough to flake or rub off once dried. Don’t wash garlic or onion bulbs, because moisture inhibits the curing/drying process.
After washing, dry individual leaves and small sprigs in a salad spinner and pat them between two layers of kitchen towel. In lieu of a salad spinner, or when drying off large stems, pile the herbs into one end of a clean, dry kitchen towel and roll it into a tube. Bring the ends together, twist, and shake vigorously so that the towel can soak up the moisture.
How to Remove Leaves
Sorrel, cilantro, dill, lovage, parsley, ‘Bronze’ fennel, and chervil have soft stems nearer to the top or outer edges of the plant that are best for using fresh. Hard and woody stems hold flavor, but picking wiry strands of oregano out of your teeth can really sour a meal. To test for tenderness, try to break a stem with your fingers. Anything that puts up a fight needs to be separated from the delectable bits before you add it to your meal.
The fastest way to defoliate a stem of oregano, tarragon, rosemary, or other small-leaved herbs is to strip the leaves off against the grain of their growth. Hold the top end of the stem with the index finger and thumb of one hand and pull down on the leaves with the finger and thumb of the other. The leaves should just slide off. Pinch and pluck large leaves off their stems using your fingers, or chop them off with a knife or a pair of scissors.
The tough, defoliated stems of basil, sage, oregano, savory, lemon balm, and fennel (to name a few) are full of flavor; it’s a shame to throw them away. Extract a little extra mileage from your hard work by tossing them into soup stock. Use them to line the bottom of a roasting pan when cooking duck, chicken, or other meats. The stems create a reservoir for drippings and infuse the meat with flavor. This will work with potatoes and vegetables, too, but you may need to add some liquid to keep them from drying out.
Making Smaller Bits
There are about a hundred ways to Sunday to break down fresh leaves, roots, bulbs, seeds, and fruit into smaller pieces.
Smashing and pounding: Lightly pound or crush garlic cloves, ginger, lemongrass, dried leaves, hard seeds, and woody stems with a heavy rolling pin, a cast-iron pan, or a mortar and pestle to release their flavor. I like this technique when I want to infuse a meal with an intense flavor such as garlic or bay, and then remove the herb partway through cooking.
Chopping: Always use a sharp knife to avoid bruising the herbs and accidentally removing your own body parts. You don’t need anything too fancy; just a pair of scissors or a big knife of decent quality and a flat cutting board. See this photo for my interpretation of the varying grades of chopped herb sizes used in this book.
Chiffonade: This French technique is a way to chop basil, sorrel, sage, and other large-leaved herbs into impressive, elegant ribbons. Stack the leaves into small piles, roll them up into a tube, and, using a sharp knife, quickly slice across into thin strips.
Recipe
Serves 5
These crispy little fritters are a tasty way to make use of a spring borage invasion. The fried leaves have a mild cucumbery taste—cooking removes all trace of their scratchy prickles. Come late summer when the big boys start to look scraggly, I pick off the youngest, greenest growth and make fritters again. The rest goes into the compost heap.
Ingredients
1 cup flour
¼ teaspoon sea salt, plus more to taste
2 eggs, separated
1 tablespoon olive oil
¾ cup sparkling water, chilled
1½ cups roughly chopped fresh borage leaves
¼ cup grated hard Italian cheese (Parmesan or Pecorino)
Canola oil for frying
Lemon juice (optional)
Crème fraîche or yogurt
1. In a large bowl, sift the flour with the salt. Add the egg yolks, oil, and sparkling water and whisk until you have a smooth batter.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk the egg whites until soft peaks are formed, and fold them into the batter. Gently stir in the borage leaves and grated cheese.
3. Heat ¼ inch oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Slide tablespoons of batter into the hot oil and fry until both sides are crispy and golden brown, about 3 minutes. Turn halfway through when just the portion poking above the oil is raw.
4. Remove from the oil with a slotted spoon and set on a plate or platter lined with paper towels.
5. Sprinkle with salt and a squeeze of lemon juice, and serve warm with a dollop of crème fraîche.
Recipe
Makes 10 flowers (about 5 servings)
Squash blossoms stuffed with cheese and herbs and fried in batter are a summer delicacy I eagerly await from the moment the seeds go into the soil. Unfortunately squash blossoms do not travel or keep well, making this a truly seasonal food that comes around for only a short time once a year. Get it while you can!
You can substitute squash blossoms with Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) or hollyhocks (Alcea rosea), but to be honest, it’s just not the same.
Ingredients
½ cup ricotta cheese
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan or Pecorino cheese
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh basil leaves
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh chives
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh oregano leaves
Pinch of sea salt, plus more to taste
Milk (optional)
1 cup sparkling water
1 cup flour
10 zucchini blossoms
Canola oil for frying
1. Mash the ricotta, Parmesan, herbs, and salt together in a medium-sized bowl using a fork or the back of a wooden spoon and set aside. The consistency of the mix should turn out like a paste; add a light splash of milk to thin out very dry ricotta, if needed, or squeeze the mixture through a piece of cheesecloth if it is runny.
2. In a second bowl, whip the sparkling water and flour.
3. Gently pry apart the flower petals and spoon or pipe about 1 teaspoon of the cheese mix into the open cavity. Use your fingers to push it in around the pistil; some recipes omit this step for space, but I like the crunchiness of it. Twist the petals to close.
4. Heat ¼ inch oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Holding the stem, gently dip and twist a flower in the batter until it is completely coated. Hold it over the bowl for a moment to allow some of the excess batter to run off before delicately sliding it into the hot oil.
5. Fry several blossoms at a time for about 3 minutes, or until all sides are crispy and golden brown.
6. Transfer individually to a pile of paper towels to soak up excess oil. Season to taste and serve.
Recipe
Herb-Encrusted Goat Cheese
Serves 3–4
You can buy shrink-wrapped
herb-encrusted goat cheese in stores, but you’ll pay a premium if the herbs are fresh because they don’t last long on the shelf. Making your own takes a few minutes tops, and it tastes better than packaged. Serve it on a cheese plate with slices of fresh baguette, crostini, crackers, or
Flowerpot Cornbread and a spoonful of
herb-infused honey. Simple, yet fancy.
Ingredients
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh lemon thyme
140-gram log (5 ounces) chèvre (soft unripened goat’s milk cheese)
1. In a small bowl, combine the herbs thoroughly.
2. Divide the log into three equally sized pieces and roll each piece in your hands to make small balls.
3. Roll the balls in the fresh herb mix, pressing to set the herbs into the cheese.
Recipe
Makes 3 loaves
These little cornbread loaves are simple but make a big impression on the table. For individually sized loaves, use smaller pots and fill to within an inch or two of the top with batter.
Ingredients
1½ cups cornmeal
1 cup flour
½ teaspoon sea salt
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh sage leaves
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh chives
1 large egg
1 cup buttermilk
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese (optional)
3 whole fresh sage leaves (optional)
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Combine the cornmeal, flour, salt, baking powder, sage, and chives in a large mixing bowl. Make a well in the center.
2. In a medium bowl, beat the egg, buttermilk, and butter together, then pour into the dry ingredients and mix well until combined.
3. Coat the insides of the terra-cotta pots with olive oil, then center a 2 × 13-inch strip of parchment paper inside each pot so that it covers the hole. Hang the excess length over the sides and use as handles to remove the loaf later.
4. Divide the batter among all three pots. Sprinkle each loaf with an equal portion of Parmesan and garnish with a fresh sage leaf, if desired. Bake until golden brown or until a wooden skewer inserted into the center of the loaf comes out dry, 30–40 minutes. Set aside to cool for 5–10 minutes, then run a knife around the inside edge of the pot to loosen the loaf and pull on the parchment handles to help remove it.
VARIATIONS
A variety of herb combinations taste great in cornbread—don’t be afraid to use whatever is in season or on hand, including green garlic, garlic scapes, marjoram, thyme, parsley, garlic chives, or lovage. Save prep time by adding a dollop of premade pesto in place of chopped herbs.
Combine chili flakes, garlic, and onion greens for a Mexican-inspired loaf.
NOTE: Serve warm with Herbed Butters or Herb-Encrusted Goat Cheese.
PREPARING THE POTS: You’ll need to season or temper your terra-cotta before use. Seasoning creates a natural nonstick surface that makes it easy to remove the bread after baking. It’s a time-consuming but essential process, and seasoned pots can be wiped clean and reused again and again.
• Wash three brand new, all-natural terra-cotta pots (4" tall × 4" at the top) in warm and soapy water and set aside to drip-dry.
• Thoroughly coat the inside of each pot with olive oil, making sure to get into all of the nooks and crannies.
• Place the pots in a cold oven and heat at 375°F for 20 minutes.
• Repeat steps 2 and 3 a few more times, allowing the pots to cool down in between.
Recipe
Serves 4
My version of this Eastern European favorite has a tangy sorrel bite that is preserved by adding the leaves in during the last few minutes of cooking. Serve it hot or cold like vichyssoise—don’t leave out the yogurt!
Ingredients
1 small onion, chopped
2 leeks (white and light green parts), thinly sliced
2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 pound potatoes (peeled or unpeeled), diced
4 cups vegetable or chicken broth or water
4 cups roughly chopped fresh sorrel leaves
1 cup milk
Sea salt and pepper to taste
½ cup thick, plain yogurt (optional)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives (optional)
1 tuberous begonia flower (optional)
1. In a large saucepan over medium-low heat, slowly sweat the onion and leeks in the butter and oil until soft and translucent, about 10 minutes.
2. Add the potatoes and broth. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer with the lid on until the potatoes are very soft, about 20 minutes.
3. Add the sorrel leaves and cook for another minute or so until they are thoroughly wilted.
4. Turn the heat off and purée the soup with an immersion blender. Raise the heat to medium-low and stir in the milk.
5. Season to taste. Serve with a dollop of yogurt, chopped chives, and a few colorful tuberous begonia petals as garnish in each bowl, if desired.
Recipe
Serves 4
These individually sized frittatas make a simple yet impressive weekend brunch. Leave out the squash flowers in the off-season or substitute thin zucchini slices instead.
Ingredients
Small pat unsalted butter for ramekins
1 tablespoon flour
6 large eggs
2 tablespoons milk or cream
1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh French tarragon leaves
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh chives
Sea salt and black pepper to taste
4 squash flowers
½ cup ricotta cheese
Generous handful of arugula, washed and patted dry (optional)
1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Lightly butter and flour four small ramekins.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs and milk. Add the chopped herbs, season with salt and pepper, and stir to combine.
3. Divide the mixture among the ramekins and gently place one squash flower on top of each, along with a generous dollop of ricotta.
4. Bake for about 20 minutes, or until the frittatas are golden brown and the sides pull away with gentle coaxing.
5. Remove the frittatas and serve warm on a bed of arugula, if desired, with a spoonful of
Mixed-Herb Coulis.
VARIATIONS
Substitute the fresh tarragon with other herbs you happen to have on hand. Basil, chive flowers, garlic chives, parsley, chervil, and Mexican tarragon are good options. You may need to reduce the quantity of sage, thyme, marjoram, Cuban oregano, or other strongly flavored herbs.
Both potted and in-ground gardens are brimming with seasonal salad fixings that are ready for harvest in the very early spring and continuing right through the winter in temperate climates. Choices range from the usual suspects—mild leafy greens, colorful lettuces, and arugula—to weeds like orache, chickweed, and purslane that may have been right under your feet all along.
Combining Herbs
1. For a balanced salad, use mild leaves to make up the bulk and accent with a smaller portion of the weird and wild possibilities that are so often overlooked in commercially prepared salad mixes. Tear a few basil, cress, sorrel, or nasturtium leaves into the mix or punctuate with colorful (but relatively tasteless) sweet violets, pansies, violas, and sunflower petals.
2. On the other hand, some flowers have very distinctive, strong flavors and should be used sparingly to avoid overpowering the salad. These include calendula, chives, French marigold, tuberous begonia, and bee balm. Nasturtium, borage, basil, and clove pinks lie somewhere in between, with distinctive, sometimes spicy flavors that can work in larger quantities and even as the main attraction. ‘Scarlet Runner’ bean flowers are one of my favorite examples of this. Their delicate, hint-of-bean taste and vibrant color make them an excellent flavor accent when you don’t want to eat a pile of beans.
Angelica (young leaves)
Arugula
Basil
Bloody dock
Borage (young leaves and sprouts)
Bronze fennel
Calendula (young leaves)
Chervil
Chives
Cilantro
Claytonia, aka miner’s lettuce
Cress
Dandelion (young leaves)
Dill
Fennel
Garlic chives
Green garlic (young leaves)
Lemon balm
Marjoram
Mint
Mustard greens
Nasturtium (leaves)
Orache
Oregano
Parsley
Purslane
Salad burnet
Savory (summer and winter)
Scallions (greens)
Sorrel
Tarragon
Violets (young leaves)
Watercress
Salad Flowers
Arugula
Basil
Bee balm
Borage
Broccoli
Calendula
Chamomile
Chives
Dandelion
Dianthus, aka clove pinks
Dill
Fennel
French marigold
Fruit sage
Gem Series marigolds
Mustard
Nasturtium
Pansy
Primrose
Radish
Roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa)
Rose petals
Runner beans
Sage
Scented geranium
Signet marigold
Tuberous begonia
Viola
Violet
Recipe
Makes 32 cookies
When it comes to herbal shortbreads, lavender is a classic—and for good reason! Try this recipe first and then skip to the end and take a stab at some unusual herbal variations. If you have some on hand, use ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon
Lavender Blossom Sugar in place of the sugar and fresh lavender blossoms.
Ingredients
½ cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon fresh lavender blossoms
1 cup cold unsalted butter
2 cups flour
1. Chop the sugar and lavender blossoms together in a food processor until they are finely ground.
2. In a mixing bowl, combine the lavender sugar and the butter until smooth.
3. Add the flour and mix to form a dough ball.
4. Divide the dough in half and press into two roughly shaped squares, about 1 inch thick. Cover each square in plastic wrap (clean, used plastic bags work well, too) and place the dough in the fridge to chill for 30 minutes.
5. Preheat the oven to 300°F and line a baking sheet with a silicone baking mat or parchment paper.
6. Unwrap the first square of dough and turn it onto an unfloured work surface. Press and roll the dough to form a 6 × 6-inch square (about ¼–½ inch thick). Divide with a sharp knife into 1½ × 1½-inch squares (four across and four down). Make three marks with a fork on each cookie and space the cookies evenly on the baking sheet.
7. Repeat with the second square of dough and place the cookies back in the fridge to chill until the oven is heated.
8. Bake for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the shortbreads are golden brown.
VARIATIONS
Because butter goes with everything, why not try a range of fresh and dried herbs in place of the lavender? Substitute 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh lemon verbena, chamomile, rose geranium flowers, anise hyssop blossoms, or bee balm. Create sweet and savory cookies using 2 teaspoons sage, rosemary, or lemon thyme.
Salted Rosemary and Orange Shortbread
Substitute 1½ teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary and 1 teaspoon orange zest for the lavender. Sprinkle the tops of the cookies sparingly with coarse sea salt and serve alongside a scoop of Orange Rosemary and Honey Ice Cream.
Recipe
Orange Rosemary and Honey Ice Cream
Serves 4–6
Ice cream is quite easy to make at home, even without a special machine. It’s worth the effort, because chances are great you won’t find a flavor like this one in your grocer’s freezer.
I suggest serving a scoop alongside sliced or grilled peaches—the combination is delicious. If you prefer, you can also try stirring a cup of cooked or puréed fruit right into the custard before freezing.
Ingredients
1¼ cups milk
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary leaves
1 teaspoon orange zest
4 egg yolks
¼ cup honey
Juice of 1 orange
½ cup whipping cream
1. Heat the milk over medium-low heat until just before the boiling point. You’ll start to see a bit of frothing along the edges. Reduce the heat to low.
2. Stir the rosemary and orange zest into the milk and let it simmer for another minute.
3. Take the pan off the heat and let the flavors infuse into the milk for about 1 hour.
4. Lightly beat the eggs and honey together in a large bowl. Strain the infused milk into the egg-honey mixture, pressing down on the herbs with a wooden spoon to get every last drop of flavor out. Stir to combine.
5. Set the bowl over a pot of simmering water to create a double boiler. Stir the mixture constantly with a wooden spoon. You’ll know it’s ready when you can coat the back of the spoon with the custard and draw a line through it with your finger. This usually takes about 10 minutes.
6. Remove the bowl from the pan and allow it to cool down thoroughly. Keep stirring while it is hot to prevent curdling.
7. Lightly beat the orange juice and whipping cream together before mixing it into the custard. Pour the contents into an ice cream machine. If you don’t have one, pour into a plastic bowl and freeze for about 1 hour. Stir it up and return it to the freezer. Keep checking and stirring every hour until it is completely frozen.
VARIATIONS
‘Cinnamon’ Basil Ice Cream: Substitute the herbs with 1 cup ‘Cinnamon’ basil or another variety such as ‘Thai’, ‘Lemon’, or even regular ‘Genovese’. Omit the citrus to make the basil the star.
Rose petal, rose geranium, lavender blossoms, fennel, tarragon, and thyme are fun and delicious flavors to explore.
Switch Up the Sweetener
Switch out the honey for an equal measure of herbed sugar. (See here for recipes). For a more intense flavor, infuse the honey with rosemary leaves or flowers a few days before making the ice cream.
Recipe
Homegrown Bloody Mary Mix
Serves 4
Of course you can make this drink by substituting commercially produced tomato juice, but do yourself a favor and give it a whirl using fresh tomatoes when they’re in season. It turns out so sweet and yummy you will run your finger along the inside of the glass to scoop up those last vestiges of flavor. I do!
Ingredients
1 pound ripe medium tomatoes
Small handful of fresh basil leaves
Sea salt and cracked black pepper to taste
2 thick stalks fresh lovage
Cucumber slices and/or cherry tomatoes for garnish (optional)
1½ tablespoons lemon juice
1½ tablespoons lime juice
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce, or to taste
Ice
1. For the tomato juice base: Purée the tomatoes and basil in a food processor or blender and press through a sieve to remove the skins and solids. Alternatively, press through a food mill or an old-fashioned chinois.
2. Season with sea salt and black pepper and set in the fridge to chill for 30–60 minutes.
3. For the Bloody Marys: Snip the leaves off the stalks of lovage and cut each stalk into two approximately 6-inch edible straws. Prepare four toothpicks or wooden skewers with two cherry tomatoes and a cucumber slice each, if desired.
4. In a pitcher, mix together the seasoned tomato juice, vodka, lemon juice, lime juice, and Worcestershire sauce.
5. To serve, fill each glass with ice and Bloody Mary mix. Garnish with the tomato⁄cucumber skewers, if using, and an edible lovage straw. You’ll taste a hint of lovage as you sip through it. Cheers!
VARIATIONS
Before filling individual glasses with ice, wet the rims with a piece of lemon and dip into a mix of dried basil and sea salt.
Recipe
Serves 5–6
A tall, icy glass of lemonade or limeade is a nice way to cool down on a scorching hot day. Infusing fresh or dried herbs into these classic summer drinks adds depth and character and surely increases their monetary value at the sidewalk lemonade stand.
Makes 5–6 cups
Ingredients
1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh lemon verbena leaves
2 tablespoons lavender blossoms
2 hibiscus flowers (optional)
½ cup honey, or to taste
1 cup lemon juice
1. In a mug or small teapot, steep the herbs and hibiscus flowers in 1½ cups hot water for 5–10 minutes. Hibiscus flowers are optional, as they amplify the bright pink color and only add a hint of flavor.
2. Strain out the herbs and dissolve the honey while the brew is still warm.
3. Add the lemon juice to a large pitcher along with the sweetened herbal tea.
4. Stir in 4 cups cold, filtered water and serve with lots of crushed or cubed ice.
5. Garnish with fresh herbs and sliced citrus.
NOTE: When using dried herbs in place of fresh, reduce the quantity by half.
Mint Limeade
Makes 5–6 cups
1 cup (packed) fresh mint
½ cup lime juice (from about 4 limes)
1. Repeat the directions for making Pink Lemonade (above), using fresh mint in place of the listed herbs and lime juice instead of lemon juice. Omit the hibiscus flowers.
2. Garnish with fresh mint flowers or leaves and sliced limes.
VARIATIONS
Turn these into herbal citrus sodas by replacing the flat water with sparkling, bottled water.
Sweeten with your choice of granulated sugar (try one of these herbed sugars, maple syrup, or agave syrup.
Citrus Cocktails
In a freezer-safe container, mix Mint Limeade with several shots of tequila and pop it in the freezer for an instant frozen margarita mix.
Recipe
Makes 4–5 cups
Latin Americans refer to this beverage as agua de Jamaica and West Indians call it sorrel, although it is made with vibrantly colored hibiscus flowers and has no relation to the hardy French herb.
Whatever you choose to call it, this drink is remarkably thirst-quenching on a scorching day. Spike it with a shot of
Hibiscus Bush Rum and enjoy a cheery holiday punch, Caribbean style.
Ingredients
1 cup hibiscus calyces (dried or fresh)
1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh ginger
One 3-inch cinnamon stick
1 tablespoon cane sugar, honey, or agave syrup (optional)
1. Steep the hibiscus calyces, ginger, cinnamon stick, and sweetener (if using) in 4 cups hot water for several hours.
2. Once cooled, place in the fridge and continue to steep for as little or as long as you prefer. Taste it as you go—I like mine at the end of two days.
3. Strain and serve with a heap of crushed or cubed ice.
VARIATIONS
For a healthier version, cut the sweetener completely. This is how we make it at home—adding the cinnamon stick (a secret I gleaned by drinking countless glasses in the West Indies) brightens and even sweetens the taste naturally.
Create your own riffs on this recipe by substituting some of the water with sparkling water (we love this) or adding orange zest, ‘Cinnamon’ basil, cloves, stevia, or lime juice.
