South from the Peak of the Crown
Welcome to the Crown of Maine. When Mainers refer to “The County,” they’re referring to Aroostook, a Micmac Indian word meaning “bright” or “shining.” At 6,453 square miles, Maine’s largest county—the largest east of the Mississippi—is bigger than Connecticut and Rhode Island combined, but its population numbers fewer than 72,000 residents (that’s 11.1 per square mile), and fully a quarter of them live in only two smallish cities, Presque Isle and Caribou. People may be scarce, but Aroostook has the largest density of moose and black bear in the Lower 48.
This is Maine’s big sky country, an awesome place to view the Northern Lights. In places, it seems to go on forever. Neat farmhouses and huge, half-buried potato-storage barns anchor vast undulating patches of potatoes, broccoli, and barley. Potato fields define The County—bright green in spring, pink and white in summer, dirt-brown and gold just before the autumn harvest.
Aroostook County, like the rest of Maine, has its share of hills, forests, and waterways, but the most significant hills here—Quaggy Jo, Mars, Debouillie, Haystack, Number Nine—are startling. Almost accidental, they appear out of nowhere—chunks the glaciers seem to have overlooked. Thanks to them, you’ll find authentic vertical hiking, although Aroostook’s trails are more often horizontal, through marshlands and woodlands and along abandoned rail beds.
Winters are long, snowy, and cold. Snowmobiling is a big deal here. Legions of snowmobilers (often called “sledders”) crisscross The County every winter, exploring hundreds of miles of the incredible Interconnecting Trail System (ITS). More recently, Aroostook has embraced a return to its cross-country skiing heritage, thanks to the Maine Winter Sports Center’s mission and properties. It’s home to an Olympic biathlon training center and hosts World Cup Nordic skiing events.
LOOK FOR M TO FIND RECOMMENDED SIGHTS, ACTIVITIES, DINING, AND LODGING.
M Maine Solar System Model: Stretching 40 miles between Houlton to Presque Isle is a three-dimensional scale model of the solar system (click here).
M Aroostook County Historical and Art Museum: There are plenty of treasures for history buffs, including military artifacts dating from the Civil War (click here).
M Golden Ridge: Route 2, between Sherman Mills and Houlton, passes along the ridge top, with panoramic views from Katahdin to distant lakes (click here).
M Salmon Brook Historical Society: Learn about the traditional potato-farm lifestyle at this National Historic Register property and museum (click here).
M Maine’s Swedish Colony: It’s an authentic touch of Sweden, and the best time to visit is during the annual June Midsommar Festival (click here).
M Aroostook State Park: Maine’s first state park has opportunities for hiking, swimming, and boating (click here).
M Woodland Bog Preserve: In early summer, schedule a walk with Nature Conservancy steward Richard Clark to learn about the flora and fauna and see rare orchids (click here).
M Acadian Village: Delve into Maine’s Acadian history and heritage on a guided tour of 16 antique and replica buildings (click here).
M St. David’s Historical Sites: Learn about Acadian heroine Tante Blanche, visit a typical homestead and school, and see where the Acadians first landed (click here).
M Fort Kent Blockhouse: A relic of the bloodless Aroostook War, the 1839 blockhouse is being restored to its original design (click here).
The County’s agricultural preeminence sets it apart from the rest of Maine, but so do its immigrant cultures. Acadian culture permeates the northernmost St. John Valley, where the French dialect is unlike anything you’ll ever hear in language classes (or in France). It leads to some wonderfully whimsical street and road names—for instance, Brise Culotte Road, roughly translated as “Torn Trousers Road.” Islands of Acadian or French culture exist in other parts of Maine, but it’s in “the Valley” that you’ll be tempted to pile on the pounds with such regional specialties as poutine (French fries smothered with cheese and gravy), tourtière (pork pie), and tarte au saumon (salmon tart).
Swedish surnames are prevalent too, especially around New Sweden and environs, and more recently Amish families have moved here, drawn by The County’s rural farming traditions.
As often occurs with remote rural areas, The County sometimes gets a bum rap (never from the snowmobiling crowd) among downstaters and others who’ve never been here. But it deserves notice—for the scenery if nothing else. Admittedly, it’s a long haul—it’s about as far as you can get from the rockbound coast—but you’re guaranteed a totally different Maine experience. For many visitors, there’s a sensation of traveling back 20 or 30 years to an era when life was simpler, communities were small, and everyone greeted each other by name.
To truly appreciate The County, detour off Route 1 and explore the crossroads and often-gravel byways. Trust me, it’s worth it.
Covering such a large expanse of geography takes time. While you can loop around Aroostook’s periphery in 2-3 days, you’ll need 4-5 days to explore the region and tease out its many charms.
Snowmobilers and cross-country skiers come January-March, when The County measures its snow in feet, not inches.
In June, newly planted potato fields resemble Ireland in their vibrant greens, although the blackflies and mosquitoes can be annoying. Most museums and historical sites are open during the summer, so that’s the best time for history buffs to visit. Days are long and temperatures moderate, also making it ideal for hikers, cyclists, and paddlers. In mid-July, the potato fields blossom, a gorgeous sight.
Autumn comes early, with leaves beginning to turn color as early as late August in the northern parts of The County.
Get off Route 1 and Route 11 and mosey along some of the back roads that meander through the farmlands and by lakes and rivers. Doing so will let you experience Maine’s Big Sky Country, a landscape where endless fields meet expansive sky. And do make time to loop through the St. John Valley for a taste of Maine unlike any other. From Caribou or Presque Isle, you can drive up to the crown, visit Valley sites, and return in a long day.
Driving north on I-95, you find the interstate petering out at Houlton, about 120 miles northeast of Bangor. That sometimes makes this feel like the end of the earth, but it’s actually just the beginning of Aroostook County.
Southern Aroostook, centered on Houlton (pop. 6,123) is a narrow north-south corridor stretching from Sherman Mills on I-95 to the Canadian border, roughly straddling Route 1 from just north of Danforth to Presque Isle (pop. 9,692) Among its communities are Island Falls (pop. 837), Oakfield (pop. 737), Smyrna (pop. 442), Monticello (pop. 790) and Bridgewater (pop. 610) It’s in this region that the forests and mountains of the Maine Highlands begin to give way to the rolling farmlands characteristic of The County.
Hard by the New Brunswick border, Houlton has carved out its own niche as the shire town, and, according to the local historical society, “history’s hiding place.” Incorporated in 1834, Houlton is quiet and not often considered a destination, but the county courts and other government offices are all here, so there’s a fair amount of activity—at least during the week.
Housed in a 1910 Bangor and Aroostook Railroad station and run by the Oakfield Historical Society, the Oakfield Railroad Museum (Station St., Oakfield, 207/757-8575, www.oakfieldmuseum.org, 1pm-4pm Sat.-Sun. late May-early Sept., free) contains an impressive collection of iron-horse memorabilia. Tour the station, the adjacent reading room library, and the outbuildings, including a restored caboose. If you’re really lucky, a train might pass by on the tracks. Donations are welcome. The museum is 17 miles west of Houlton, off I-95 Exit 286.
Many folks think they’ve stepped back in time when visiting The County, but that feeling intensifies in Smyrna, where horse-drawn carriages signal the presence of the Smyrna Amish community. Seeking a quiet place to work, raise their families, practice their faith, and interact with outsiders, five Midwestern families established a community in this rural farming town about 15 miles west of Houlton in 1996. Since then, the community has grown steadily. In addition to farming, the Smyrna Amish operate a number of businesses, open to the public, all of which are clustered along a short stretch of Route 2, one mile west of I-95 Exit 295. These include Sturdi-Bilt, which builds wooden sheds and outbuildings; Kauffman Metals, which fabricates metal roofing and building; Northeastern Rustic Furniture; the Bicycle Shop; Cedar Meadows Harness Shop; and Pioneer Place, a wonderful little general store where you can purchase locally made goods and foods and just about everything else, from socks to knives. Most of the businesses are closed on weekends. While the Amish welcome visitors to their businesses, remember they’re not a tourist attraction. This is a living, breathing community that has opened a window to its lifestyle. Respect their personal and community property, and ask before taking photos of people.
Space travel is possible in Aroostook County, where the three-dimensional Maine Solar System Model (pages.umpi.edu/~nmms/solar/) stretches 40 miles along Route 1. The model comprises the sun, the planets, dwarf planets, and the moons for Earth, Saturn, Jupiter, and Pluto. All of the major planets are large enough to be seen while driving along Route 1, where one mile is equal to the distance between Earth and the sun, and the speed of light is 7 mph.
The 93-million-to-one scale model was masterminded by Dr. Kevin McCartney, a geology professor at the University of Maine at Presque Isle and director of the Northern Maine Museum of Science; implemented by hundreds of local volunteers, including service and school groups, businesses, and individuals; and accomplished without any formal sponsors or grants. Local students built the planets. It’s really quite a marvel of can-do grassroots community spirit.
Pluto, only 1 inch in diameter, is embedded in a wall in the lobby of the Visitor Information Center in Houlton, just off Route 1, north of the I-95 interchange. Other models are mounted on 10-foot-tall posts and dot parking lots and fields along the route. The project is detailed and mapped both in a brochure, available at the center, and on the Internet. If heading north, begin in Houlton and set your odometer to zero at the info center.
Plans call for expanding the model into New Brunswick and Quebec with the addition of other dwarf planets.
An arced pedestrian bridge across the Meduxnekeag River links Gateway Crossing, on Route 1, with Market Square’s 28 turn-of-the-20th-century buildings listed on the National Register of Historic Places (the architecture is lovely, but unfortunately more than a few storefronts are empty). Along the bridge and walkway (both wheelchair-accessible) are markers detailing Houlton’s downtown history. A walking guide is available at the Greater Houlton Area Chamber of Commerce (109 Main St., Houlton), two blocks up Main Street. On the Route 1 side, illustrated plaques detailing more history along with flora and fauna pepper an easy 0.2-mile round-trip riverside trail.
Saturn, part of the Maine Solar System Model along Rte. 1 in Aroostook County
The 1903 White Memorial Building, the Colonial Revival residence that houses the chamber, is also home to the Aroostook County Historical & Art Museum containing a fine collection of photos, books, vintage clothing, antique tools, and housewares. You can wander through on your own, but a guide will bring the collection to life. Of particular interest are military artifacts from the Hancock Barracks, the Civil War, and the Camp Houlton POW internment camp. Also on view are the ventilator cowl from the battleship Maine, which sank in Havana Harbor, and a Confederate battle flag captured by a Houlton member of the First Calvary Maine. Call the chamber (207/532-4216) in advance for an appointment or stop by the chamber office and take a chance that a volunteer is available to come in and show you around. Donations are appreciated.
Museum staff can also provide information about and direct you to a number of local historical sites. Unfortunately most haven’t been maintained. I’ve watched them deteriorate and all but disappear over the years. There is not much to see at either of these, but they are worth mentioning for their places in history.
Garrison Park, site of the Hancock Barracks, was established in 1828 to protect American border settlements and garrisoned troops during the 1838-1839 Aroostook War. It provided frontier training for West Point graduates, and Gen. Robert E. Lee visited here. To find the overgrown, gated site, take Route 2 toward the airport and turn left onto Garrison Road, near the top of the hill.
The still functioning Houlton International Airport dates from the early 1940s. Neutrality laws prevented U.S.-built planes from flying directly from the United States to Britain, so during the months before Pearl Harbor, planes were known to land in Houlton and then be towed across the border to Canada for takeoff. That all changed when the U.S. Army took over the airport during World War II and turned it into an airbase and Maine’s largest German POW camp. About 4,000 prisoners lived here in barracks while laboring in lumber camps, canneries, potato farms, and paper mills. The original World War II airport control tower (one of the few surviving in the country), one POW camp building, a few foundations, and a small memorial are all that remain of the era. To find the site, take Route 2 east from downtown. At the T intersection, bear right and then right again on Aviation Road.
About six miles north of Houlton, amid typical Aroostook farmland in Littleton, stands Maine’s northernmost (yes, and easternmost) covered bridge, built in 1911 and last used in 1985. The wood-truss bridge, straddling a branch of the Meduxnekeag River, feels quite forlorn, a remnant of the past just sitting here unused (except, unfortunately, by graffiti artists). Maine once had 120 or so covered bridges; only nine remain, and this is the only one using the Howe truss system. For the prettiest route to the bridge from Houlton, take Foxcroft Road from Route 2 and continue 6.1 miles; turn left onto Carson Road. From Route 1 in Littleton, go right on Carson Road, which winds its way down to the river (bear left at the fork). The quicker route is to head north on Route 1 four miles from the I-95 interchange and then go right on Carson Road for 2.9 miles.
Plan in advance to tour the Aroostook County Historical & Art Museum.
Farming memorabilia fills the Southern Aroostook Agricultural Museum (1664 Rte. 1, Littleton, 207/538-9300, www.oldplow.org, 1pm-4pm Thurs.-Sat. June-late Sept., $5 adults, $3 under age 10), started as a retirement project for Cedric and Emily Shaw. The collection grew, and in 2001 the museum moved from the Shaws’ farm to the former Littleton Elementary School. Local support has allowed it to continue growing, adding a tool collection and a former one-room schoolhouse as well as building a model potato barn and a new barn.
The interstate is the fastest route to Houlton, but Route 2, from Sherman Mills through Oakfield and Smyrna, is the best choice for moseyers, and it really isn’t that much longer. The far-less-traveled route passes through gorgeous countryside dotted with farms, lakes, and small villages. The views from Golden Ridge, a section between Island Falls and Oakfield, reach to Katahdin and beyond. Watch for potato barns, a unique barn built into the ground for cold potato storage. Most have a gambrel roof topping the landscape.
South of Houlton and stretching eight miles along Route 1 between Danforth and Orient is an especially scenic drive that passes over Peekaboo Mountain and offers panoramic views over the Chiputneticook chain of lakes and to Katahdin. It’s also prime moose-watching country. There are two scenic pull-outs.
For canoeists and kayakers, the year’s biggest event is the eight-mile spring-runoff Meduxnekeag River Race, held on a Saturday in late April-early May. Beginning in New Limerick, west of town, the route includes a short stretch of Class III rapids. For more information, contact the Greater Houlton Chamber of Commerce (207/532-4216).
Check local listings and posters for the frequent outdoor concerts staged in local parks.
The annual Soapbox Derby, held in mid-June in Community Park, always attracts a big crowd.
The early July Houlton Fair includes a carnival, a pig scramble, truck pulling, pageants, entertainment, baking contests, and crafts and agricultural exhibits.
Near downtown Houlton, mystery surrounds the origins of Pierce Park’s quaint fountain with a centerpiece statue usually called The Boy with the Leaking Boot. Donated to the town in 1916, it’s one of two dozen or so similar statues in the United States and Europe. Legends have it coming from Germany or Belgium or Italy, but no record exists. Benches surround the fountain, and lower- and upper-level troughs provide fresh water for pets and their owners. The Houlton Garden Club maintains the flowers in the park—a popular local spot for photographs, picnics, and coffee breaks.
Just south of Houlton in Hodgdon, the Gordon Manuel Wildlife Management Area (no phone) covers 6,482 acres of fields, woods, and marshland along the Meduxnekeag River. From Route 1, turn right (west) onto Hodgdon Road and watch for a dairy bar (there’s a water access point adjacent to it). Take the first left after it onto the unpaved Horseback Road. Continue 1.7 miles and turn left at a narrow dirt road. Wind through the trees about 0.2 mile to a small parking area on the Meduxnekeag River. Watch for ospreys, green herons, even bald eagles. You can launch a canoe or kayak (no motors allowed) and explore the area. The setting is particularly gorgeous during the fall foliage season, but be forewarned that hunting is allowed here, so wear a hunter-orange vest and hat mid-October-November.
If you don’t have a canoe or kayak and just want to do some birding, this is a particularly relaxing bike ride, even from Houlton.
On a clear day, Baxter State Park’s Katahdin is visible from Va-Jo-Wa Golf Club (142-A Walker Settlement Rd., Island Falls, 207/463-2128, www.vajowa.com), a particularly scenic 18-hole, par-72 course named after Vaughn, John, and Warren Walker. Call for a starting time; this course is popular.
Southwest of Houlton is the nine-hole Houlton Community Golf Club (Drew’s Lake Rd., New Limerick, 207/532-2662, www.houltongolf.com), built on onetime potato fields in 1921. The setting is lovely, on the shores of Nickerson Lake; the lakefront clubhouse has a snack bar. Bring a swimsuit; a dip in the lake feels great after a round of golf.
Houlton is at the fringe of prime snowmobiling country. The crowds tend to head up the road to Presque Isle, Caribou, and the St. John Valley, but there are plenty of trails here. For information on snowmobiling in the Houlton area, contact the chamber of commerce or the Maine Snowmobile Association (207/622-6983, www.mesnow.com), which can put you in touch with local snowmobile clubs. When snowmobiling in the Houlton area, you’ll notice on trail maps that some routes cross into Canada. Carry a passport or passport card when you are near the border. The Houlton border crossing is open 24 hours.
Also lacing the region are cross-country ski trails.
Clean, well maintained, and regularly updated, M Ivey’s Motor Lodge (Rte. 1, Houlton, 207/532-4206 or 800/244-4206 in Maine, www.iveysmotorlodge.com, $86-125) wins folks over with good-size guest rooms, friendly service, and amenities unexpected in an older motel. All rooms have air-conditioning, TVs, DVD players, Wi-Fi, fridges, and microwaves; some have whirlpool tubs or efficiency kitchens. Rates include a hot-and-cold continental buffet. On the premises is a pub with big-screen TV. It’s on Route 1, on the north side of I-95 Exit 302.
The Shiretown Motor Inn (282 North Rd./Rte. 1, Houlton, 207/532-9421 or 800/441-9421, www.shiretownmotorinn.com, $109-139) has an indoor pool, a fitness room, and Wi-Fi, but it needs updating and TLC. Ask for a room in the new building and avoid staying in the pool building. Rates include continental breakfast.
About 28 miles south of Houlton First Settler’s Lodge (341 Rte. 1, Weston, 207/448-3000, www.firstsettlerslodge.com, $125-150) is an East Grand Lakes area spoiler with spectacular views. Four guest rooms, a loft with bunks, an efficiency apartment, and a luxury suite have Wi-Fi and satellite TV, and there’s a guest kitchen. Breakfast is included. The lodge is also open for dinner by reservation on Friday and Saturday nights.
Homemade doughnuts, cinnamon buns, and other treats emerge from the kitchen at Sadie’s Bakery (5 Water St., Houlton, 207/532-6650), a hole-in-the-wall that’s been in biz since 1948. Most of Maine’s farmers markets operate one or maybe two days a week; the Houlton Farmers Market sets up shop daily early May-mid-October next to McDonald’s on Route 1, just south of I-95 Exit 62.
Maple syrup and honey are produced at Spring Break (3315 Rte. 2, Smyrna Mills, 207/757-7373, www.mainemapleandhoney.com), a sugarhouse and Maine-made gift shop near the Amish colony.
For humongous portions (even by County standards), home cooking, good service, and local color, M Grammy’s Country Inn (1687 Bangor Rd., Linneus, 207/532-7808, 6am-9pm Mon.-Sat., 7am-9pm Sun.) is the choice. It’s nothing fancy, mind you, but where else might you find deep-fried lobster on the menu? Order conservatively, and even then, plan on having leftovers. Do save room for dessert, which includes two-fisted whoopie pies. The best part though is that nearly everything on the menu is less than $12.
Another option for old-fashioned meals such as country-fried steak and liver and onions, a Friday night fish fry, and rave-worthy desserts is Elm Tree Diner (146 Bangor Rd., Houlton, 207/532-3777, www.elmtreediner.com, 5:30am-8pm Mon.-Thurs., 5:30am-9pm Fri.-Sat., 7am-8pm Sun., $4-18). Breakfast is served all day.
It’s easy to spot The Blue Moose (180 Rte. 1, Monticello, 207/538-0991, 11am-8pm, Tues.-Thurs., 11am-9pm Fri., 7am-9pm Sat., 7am-7pm Sun.): Just look for the, um, blue moose. Rather nondescript on the exterior, inside it’s warm, inviting, and lodge-like. The family-operated restaurant serves mighty fine home-style fare at better-than-reasonable prices, and there’s a children’s menu. As with most such restaurants in the region, the desserts are homemade and scrumptious.
Hidden in the back of the small downtown Fishman Mall and displaying the work of local artists, Joyce Transue’s The Courtyard Café (61 Main St., Houlton, 207/532-0787, www.thecourtyardcafe.biz, 11am-2pm Tues.-Fri. and 5pm-8pm Tues.-Thurs., 5pm-9pm Fri.-Sat.) is well worth finding. Dine either in the main restaurant or the more casual bar. The menu changes frequently, but dinner possibilities ($14-30) might include chicken Marsala or bourbon-glazed Alaskan sockeye salmon. Reservations are recommended. There’s often live music on Saturday nights.
Across the street, occupying a former bank, is The Vault (64 Main St., Houlton, 207/532-2222, 5pm-10pm Wed.-Sat., entrées $12-18). Entrées, such as fish tacos or veal with mushrooms, run $10-15. Be forewarned the space is small and tends to be noisy. Service is leisurely at best; don’t attempt to dine here if in a hurry. Reservations highly recommended.
The Horn (382 North St., Houlton, 207/532-2260, 11am-2:30pm and 4:30pm-8pm Wed.-Sat., $12-20) is the latest incarnation of former The Horn of Plenty, which closed in 2012. Ask locally about its current reputation.
The Greater Houlton Chamber of Commerce (109 Main St., Houlton, 207/532-4216, www.greaterhoulton.com) is in the same 1903 Colonial Revival building as the Aroostook Historical and Art Museum. Request the Walking Guide to Market Square Historic District.
Check out Cary Memorial Library (107 Main St., Houlton, 207/532-1302, www.cary.lib.me.us).
The Maine Visitor Information Center (28 Ludlow Rd., Houlton, 207/532-6346), with brochures and maps covering the entire state, is open 9am-5pm weekdays year-round, with weekend and extended weekday hours in summer. Restrooms are also available.
Aroostook County Tourism (888/216-2463, www.visitaroostook.com) has information on and links for the entire county.
Houlton is about 80 miles or 1.75 hours from Grand Lake Stream via Route 1 or about 120 miles or 1.75 hours from Bangor via I-95. It’s about 42 miles or 50 minutes to Presque Isle.
Ahh. Sighs of contentment are common in a region where folks know their neighbors, crime is rare, and the only traffic jams are caused by slow-moving farm equipment. In addition to road signs urging drivers to be wary of moose, there are others encouraging sharing the road with roller-skiers and Amish horse-and-buggies.
Most of the 60,000 acres planted with spuds in Maine are found in the “Potato Triangle,” the region framed by Presque Isle (pop. 9,692) to the south, Caribou (pop. 8,189) to the north, and Fort Fairfield (pop. 3,496) on the Canadian border, tied together by the zigzagging course of the Aroostook River. Farmhouses, potato barns, and rolling fields dominate the landscape—and when those fields bloom in mid-July, it’s one of the prettiest sights around. Northeast of Caribou is Limestone (pop 2,314); south of Presque Isle is Mars Hill (pop. 1,493). Each is a day’s stage ride from the others, about 13 miles, making it easy to explore the region from one base. South of Fort Fairfield is Easton, home to another Amish community.
The economic impact caused by the closing of Limestone’s Loring Air Force Base in the late 1990s devastated the region, and although the population erosion continues, the base is becoming a success story with the establishment of the Loring Commerce Centre and the creation of Aroostook National Wildlife Refuge.
Outdoor enthusiasts, especially, will find plenty: 904-acre Aroostook State Park, miles of multiuse trails, two small alpine areas, and impressive cross-country facilities that have hosted World Cup events. Cross-country skiing was introduced to Maine by settlers of the Swedish Colony, the region northwest of Caribou anchored by New Sweden (pop. 602) and Stockholm (pop. 253).
A handful of intriguing low-tech museums and heritage sites entertain history buffs. What you won’t find here is much in the way of interesting shopping.
Most historical sights in the area are run by volunteers, so hours change frequently. It’s wise to call before making a special trip.
Established in 1903 as the Aroostook State Normal School for training teachers, the University of Maine at Presque Isle (UMPI, 181 Main St./Rte. 1, Presque Isle, 207/768-9400, www.umpi.edu) has more than 1,500 two-year and four-year students on its 150-acre campus at the southern end of the city. The school is noted for its training in physical education and recreation.
In the Campus Center is the Reed Art Gallery, a one-room gallery that overflows into the hallway, where rotating exhibits spotlight Maine and Canadian artists. During the school year, the gallery is open 9am-4pm Monday-Saturday; the summer schedule tends to be less predictable.
Science wunderkind Kevin McCartney, a geology professor and the powerhouse behind the Maine Solar System scale model, also gets credit for the Northern Maine Museum of Science, in Folsom Hall. Hallways in the three-story science building have been turned into a free teaching museum, where you can take a test to see if you’re color blind, touch a real dinosaur bone, and take in all manner of scientific and mathematical exhibits explaining such hard-to-grasp concepts as DNA and the Fibonacci sequence and displays varying from bottle-nosed dolphins to fluorescent minerals. Also here is the sun, the epicenter of the Route 1 solar system model, as well as another scale model that extends the length of the second floor. Nothing is high-tech, but it’s enjoyable and well presented. Pick up a brochure that explains the exhibits—look for it on case tops. Also look for a guide to the West Campus Woods Nature Trail, protected by the museum. There are 10 interpretive stations that illustrate features of the northern forest.
Here’s a worthwhile two-for-one deal, with lots of charm and character: In tiny downtown Washburn, across from the First Baptist Church, the Salmon Brook Historical Society (1267 Main St./Rte. 164, Washburn, 207/455-4339) operates the Benjamin C. Wilder Homestead, an 1852 farmhouse on the National Register of Historic Places, and the Aroostook Agricultural Museum in the adjacent red barn. The well-restored 10-room house has period furnishings and displays; the barn contains old tools and antique cookware and pottery. The museums, on 2.5 acres, are open July 4-early September, call for current hours, and other times by appointment. Admission is free, but donations are welcome. Washburn is 11 miles northwest of Presque Isle and 10 miles southwest of Caribou.
If you were an eccentric self-educated geologist and needed a place to display and store everything you’d accumulated, you’d create a place like the Nylander Museum (393 Main St., Caribou, 207/493-4209, cariboumaine.org, 9am-5pm Fri.-Sat., donation). Swedish-born Olof Olssen Nylander traveled the world collecting specimens, settled in Caribou, and bequeathed his work, including 6,000 fossils and 40,000 shells, to the city. Since his 1943 death, the museum has acquired other collections: butterflies, mounted birds, and additional geological specimens. It’s all displayed in two small galleries.
Maine’s Swedish Colony (www.maineswedishcolony.info) comprises New Sweden, Stockholm, and Woodland, and spills over into neighboring towns, including Perham, Westmanland, Madawaska Lake, and Caribou.
New Sweden is eight miles northwest of downtown Caribou via Route 161. At the New Sweden Historical Museum (Capitol Hill Rd. and Station Rd., New Sweden, 207/896-5240), three floors of memorabilia reflect the rugged life in this frontier community. An exact replica of the colony’s “Kapitoleum” (capitol), the museum was built in 1971 after fire leveled the original structure. Check out the museum’s guestbook: Visitors have come from all over Scandinavia to see this cultural enclave. The museum, 0.5 mile north and east of Route 161, is open noon-4pm daily Memorial Day weekend-mid-September. Admission is free, but donations are welcome. Next door, in the Capitol Hill School, a gift shop carries Swedish items. Out back is a monument with the list of the original settlers.
Continuing east on Station Road, you’ll pass W. W. Thomas Memorial Park on the left, a great spot for a picnic, with a play area for kids and a dramatic vista over the rolling countryside. Concerts occur periodically in the band shell. About 0.2 mile farther are the circa-1870 Larsson/Ostlund Log Home, one of the colony’s oldest buildings, and the shingled Lars Noak Blacksmith and Woodworking Shop, another remnant of the early settlers. Volunteers aim to open these two properties Tuesday-Sunday during the summer.
More exhibits await at the Stockholm Historical Society Museum (280 Main St., Stockholm), which is usually open 1:30pm-4:30pm Saturday-Sunday, July-August, but hours for it aren’t formal. Ask at the post office across the street, nearby Anderson Store, or simply call one of the names listed on the front door for access. The Woodland Historical Society (http://woodlandhistorical.wix.com/museum) sometimes opens the Lagerstrom House Museum and the Snowman School Museum.
The New Sweden Historical Museum chronicles the history and heritage of Maine’s Swedish Colony.
A fun time to visit New Sweden is during the Midsommar Festival, on the closest weekend to Midsummer Day (June 21), when most sites are open for tours and residents don traditional Swedish costumes and celebrate the year’s longest day. Activities include decorating a maypole, Swedish dancing, a smorgasbord, concerts, and a prayer service. Non-Scandinavians are welcome to join in.
Goughan’s Farm (872 Fort Fairfield Rd./Rte. 161, Caribou, 207/498-6565, 8am-5pm Mon.-Sat., noon-5pm Sun., Mar.-mid-Dec.) has a bit of everything, depending on when you show up. Don’t miss the farm-fresh ice cream or the strawberry shortcake or fruit pies in season. Goughan’s (pronounced GAWNS) has maple syrup in spring; pick-your-own strawberries, raspberries, string beans, and peas in summer; apples and choose-your-own pumpkins in fall; and Christmas wreaths and trees in winter. There’s also a late summer corn maze.
Fort Fairfield’s historical society maintains a number of local properties, but few are open except during the annual Potato Festival in July. The Fort Fairfield Blockhouse Museum (Main St.) is a 1976 replica of the original, and it’s filled with local memorabilia. The Friends Church Museum (Rte. 1A), built in 1858 as a Quaker meetinghouse, is believed to have served as a station on the Underground Railroad during the Civil War. The Railroad Museum (Depot St., off Brown St.) comprises locomotives and cars and an 1875 Canadian-Pacific Railroad station. Also on the railroad site is the restored Black/McIntosh One-Room School House, built in 1848.
Just beyond the state park access road is a tiny park (140 Spragueville Rd., Presque Isle) commemorating the launch of the Double Eagle II, the first manned helium balloon to cross the Atlantic. A replica honors the August 1978 flight, when a crew of three made the Presque Isle-Miseray, France, passage in approximately 137 hours. (The first solo transatlantic balloon flight, six years later, took off from Caribou.)
A Gam 77 hound dog air-to-ground missile stands outside the Loring Military Heritage Center (131 Cupp Rd., 11am-3pm Sat., noon-3pm Sun.), located on the grounds of the Loring Commerce Centre. The small, volunteer-run museum is dedicated to the history of the former air force base (1953-1994) named after Charles J. Loring, USAF, Medal of Honor winner from Maine. If you previously were stationed here or want more info, try Bill Ossenfort (207/227-5265) or Cuppy Johndro (207/551-3439) to set up an appointment.
With so much open space in The County, particularly in the Potato Triangle, drivers and bicyclists can enjoy great long vistas. One route, a favorite of Senator Susan Collins, who ought to know, is Route 164 between Caribou and Presque Isle, half of it along the Aroostook River. (Locals call it the Back Presque Isle Road; it’s also the Washburn Road and the Caribou Road—just to make things totally confusing.) On the way, you can check out the museums in Washburn, detour on the multiuse trail, or loop out on Route 228 and visit the Woods Edge Gallery in Perham.
Another scenic drive is Route 167, between Presque Isle and Fort Fairfield; the 12-mile stretch is especially dramatic in mid-July when the rolling fields are draped with pink and white potato blossoms and Fort Fairfield puts on its annual Potato Blossom Festival.
If you’re even a bit adventurous and have a trustworthy vehicle, explore the back roads in this region. Although many are quite hilly, they’re worth the effort for cyclists too. Be forewarned that many have gravel sections, but they’re usually well maintained. Don’t be surprised to come across roller-skiers or Amish buggies. Expect to find big views from hilltop ridges and honor stands for potatoes and other fresh produce. Good choices are the roads east of Route 1 in the Easton area and the Tangle Ridge Road, in Woodland.
The Presque Isle Historical Society (207/762-1151, www.pihistory.org) offers a wide range of ways to experience the city, including two-hour guided walking tours, one-hour tours of the Vera Estey House Museum, guided walking tours of the historic Fairmount Cemetery, and three-hour narrated city tours and foliage tours aboard Molly the Trolley. Fees range from free to $10.
Aroostook State Park (State Park Rd., Presque Isle, 207/768-8341, www.parksandlands.com, $3 nonresident adults, $2 Maine resident adults, $1 ages 5-11 and nonresident seniors) has the distinction of being Maine’s first state park, created in 1939, when inspired citizens of Presque Isle donated 100 acres of land to the state. The park has grown significantly since then; it now comprises nearly 800 acres, encompassing Quaggy Jo Mountain and Echo Lake and providing plentiful opportunities for hiking, water sports, snow sports, camping, and more. Quaggy Jo comes from the Micmac word quaquajo, which translates as “twin-peaked.” Allow 2-3 hours for the moderate (with steep sections) three-mile hike (clockwise) via the North Peak, North-South Peak Ridge, and South Peak Trails to take in both summits; the views, especially from North Peak, are superb. After hiking, have a lakeside picnic and then cool off with a swim or fish for brook trout. Public boat access is available. Call it a night at one of 30 campsites ($12 Maine residents, $20 non-residents). The park is equally inviting in winter, when a selection of trails are open for cross-country skiing. These range from the one-mile Novice Trail to the four-mile Quaggy Jo Mountain Trail, which is best for advanced skiers. Groomed snowmobile trails also pass through the park. The park is open daily mid-May-mid-October. The gate is 1.5 miles west of Route 1, five miles south of downtown Presque Isle.
More than 5,250 acres encompassing grasslands, forests, 10 ponds, three brooks, and one stream of the Cold War-era Loring Air Force Base have found new life as Aroostook National Wildlife Refuge (97 Refuge Rd., Limestone, 207/454-7161, www.fws.gov/northeast/aroostook). Established in 1998, the refuge is still actively restoring habitat by removing buildings, railroad tracks, and fencing as well as restoring wetlands. Seven trails, ranging 0.12-1.9 miles, provide excellent wildlife viewing, especially early in the morning or late in the evening. Trails are divided on two parcels, half near the visitor center and the rest near Chapman Pond. According to the Friends of Aroostook National Wildlife Refuge (www.friendsofaroostooknwr.org), Aroostook County supports the largest density of moose and black bears in the Lower 48, and sightings of each are a daily occurrence on the refuge. Migratory songbirds nest here in spring and summer, and various ducks, Canada geese, woodcocks, and ruffled grouse are also frequently sighted. Stop at the FOANWR’s volunteer-staffed Nature Store (207/328-4634, usually open 1pm-4pm Tues.-Thurs. and 11am-3pm Sat.) for information and maps as well as nature-related gifts. The refuge is off Route 89, eight miles east of Caribou, five miles west of Limestone. Trails are open sunrise-sunset daily.
About six miles west of Caribou, Woodland Bog Preserve, a 265-acre Nature Conservancy property, is home to several rare orchid species and 80 bird species (nearly 90 have been banded here). On weekday mornings and Sunday afternoons, mid-May-mid-July, Perham resident Richard Clark—the Nature Conservancy’s on-site steward—leads fascinating free walks through this bog (technically, a calcareous fen surrounded by a cedar swamp) as well as the conservancy’s 200-acre Perham Bog Preserve. Clark also leads walks in Salmon Brook Lake Bog, a 1,857-acre northern white cedar bog bought by the state under the Land for Maine’s Future program. To set up a time, call Richard Clark directly (207/455-8359 days or 207/455-8060 evenings and Mon.). Wear waterproof shoes and insect repellent. Dedicated environmentalists, Richard and his wife, Susan, have donated an easement on a 135-acre parcel that connects two sections of the state’s land.
Swim, fish, hike, bike, boat, picnic, camp, and play at 85-acre Trafton Lake Recreation Area (Ward Rd., Limestone, 207/325-4707), maintained by the town of Limestone.
In downtown Caribou, a 1.5-mile loop circles around Collins Pond, an old millpond and waterfall downtown. Walk or bike the path through a town park, with a picnic area, beside ball fields, and along city sidewalks. It passes through wetlands populated by muskrat, moose, red-winged blackbirds, and other species; bring binoculars and head out in the early morning or before sunset for the best wildlife spotting.
Led by the Caribou Recreation Department, several volunteer groups have worked to open up nearly 90 miles of abandoned railroad beds for year-round use by bikers, hikers, snowmobilers, all-terrain vehicles, and cross-country skiers. The two trail systems intersect in Washburn. The trails are mostly packed gravel, so you’ll want a mountain bike. The prettiest and most rural section of this impressive network is the section of the trail between Washburn and Stockholm (40 miles one-way), including a short stretch through the Woodland Bog. Park in downtown Washburn, and carry plenty of water. From Caribou, you can go to Stockholm and on to Van Buren (29 miles one-way). Or begin in Carson (just west of Caribou) and go to New Sweden (9 miles one-way).
Check out the 18-hole Presque Isle Country Club (Rte. 205/Parkhurst Siding Rd., Presque Isle, 207/764-0430 or 207/769-7431, www.picountryclub.com). Another easy-on-the budget choice is the 18-hole Mars Hill Country Club (75 Country Club Rd., Mars Hill, 207/425-4802, www.golfmhcc.com).
Twenty miles of professionally designed world-class mountain-biking and cross-country skiing trails are available free at the Maine Nordic Heritage Center (Nordic Heritage Access Rd., off Rte. 167, Presque Isle, 207/492-1444, www.nordicheritagecenter.org), part of the Maine Winter Sports Center. The center is considered one of the world’s best internationally licensed cross-country facilities, and it has hosted international biathlon and cross-country races. The facilities include 20.5 miles of Nordic trails, a 30-point biathlon range, 0.6-mile paved and lighted roller-ski loop, 1.5-mile lighted trail, and visitors center with equipment rentals. Afterward, finish up with a sauna in the lodge. Best of all, the trails are free. The facility also has 20 miles of marked mountain bike trails.
If alpine skiing is your preference, the Maine Winter Sports Center also operates the family-oriented Quaggy Joe Ski Area (Rte. 167, Presque Isle, 207/764-3016), adjacent to the Nordic Heritage Center, and the Big Rock Ski Area (37 Graves Rd., Mars Hill, 207/425-6711, www.bigrockmaine.com). Quaggy Joe is tiny, with only a T-bar serving its 218-foot vertical range, but it’s very inexpensive. Big Rock is a good-size community ski area with three lifts (a triple chair, a double chair, and a Magic Carpet) and 35 trails and glades on a 980-foot vertical range. Although the area averages 160 inches of snow, 80 percent of the terrain is covered by snowmaking. About 55 percent is open for night skiing. Unfortunately the area’s future is in jeopardy as the foundation that’s been supporting it is no longer doing so.
Snowmobile rentals are available at The Sled Shop (108 Main St., Presque Isle, 207/764-2900, www.thesledshopinc.com). Rates begin at $200/day. Links to local snowmobile clubs are on its website.
Inside Caroline D. Gentile Hall (University of Maine at Presque Isle campus, 207/768-9772, www.umpi.edu) are a walking and running track, a gym, a 37-foot rock wall and bouldering wall, strength machines and free weights, cardio trainers, and a pool. A day pass is $7 adults, $4 under age 14.
Mojo (730 North St., Presque Isle, 207/760-9500, www.mojooutdoorsports.com) rents bikes ($25/day), kayaks ($25/day), skis/boots/poles ($25/day), and river tubes ($15/day). It also organizes weekly ride groups.
Perception of Aroostook (9 Caribou Rd./Rte. 1, Presque Isle, 207/764-5506, www.perceptionofaroostook.com) rents canoes and kayaks and will provide shuttles for the easy-going, 10-mile calm-water paddle on the Aroostook River from Washburn to Presque Isle.
In early June, the Aroostook State Park Birding Festival features guided bird walks, bird-banding demonstrations, and educational programs.
One of The County’s biggest wingdings is the Maine Potato Blossom Festival held in Fort Fairfield in mid-July. Pageantry, potatoes, crafts, potatoes, entertainment, potatoes, fireworks, and potatoes.
Agriculture exhibits, harness racing, live entertainment, and fireworks are all part of Presque Isle’s Northern Maine Fair (www.northernmainefairgrounds.com), the biggest country fair in this part of Maine, the first full week of August.
About 11 miles west of Caribou, the Woods Edge Gallery (High Meadow Rd., Perham, 207/455-8359, 1pm-5pm Tues.-Sat. year-round) devotes almost 1,000 feet of exhibit space to watercolor and acrylic landscapes, plus photography—mostly by Aroostook County artists. The gallery doubles as owner Richard Clark’s working studio. The gallery is 1.25 miles west of Route 228. Clark, steward for the Nature Conservancy’s nearby Woodland Bog, also leads seasonal nature tours there.
Monica’s Scandinavian Imports (176 Sweden St., Caribou, 207/493-4600) is chock-full of imported goods, from linens to clothing, cheese, and jewelry.
Lodging choices are few, so it’s smart to have advance reservations.
Within walking distance of downtown Caribou sights and restaurants, the M Old Iron Inn B&B (155 High St., Caribou, 207/492-4766, www.oldironinn.com, $79-99) comes by its name honestly. Hundreds of antique irons are displayed through the in-town 1913 arts and crafts-style house, and geology professor Kevin McCartney can recount the background of each one. Three guest rooms are comfortably furnished with quilts and oak antiques. A small entertainment room has a fridge, a TV, and microwave; Wi-Fi is available. Settle into the living room with a choice from the extensive magazine selections or choose a good read—plenty of mysteries, along with Lincoln and aviation libraries—from the well-stocked bookcases. Known for her culinary talent, Kate McCartney serves a delicious breakfast in the Victorian dining room. Ask Kevin about the Maine Solar System or the Science Museum at UMPI, both of which he developed—a clever and industrious fellow he.
Patronized primarily for its convenient downtown site, the clean but dated Northeastland Hotel (436 Main St., Presque Isle, 207/768-5321 or 800/244-5321 in Maine, www.northeastlandhotel.com, $110-125), dating from 1934, has 50 very spacious guest rooms with air-conditioning, TVs, Wi-Fi, and phones. Pets are not allowed; children 12 and under stay free.
The 148-room Presque Isle Inn and Convention Center (Rte. 1, Presque Isle, 207/764-3321 or 800/533-3971, www.presqueisleinn.com, $89-150) is a bit tired, but it’s the area’s best full-service lodging. Amenities include a restaurant, a health club, an indoor pool, an on-site coin laundry, Wi-Fi, and cable TV. The bar is a popular local rendezvous spot, and there’s live entertainment on weekends in the lounge. Some rooms have kitchenettes. In winter, when the parking lot has more snowmobiles than cars, don’t even think about arriving sans reservation. Pets are welcome.
Just south of town, the two-story Caribou Inn and Convention Center (Rte. 1, Caribou, 207/498-3733, www.caribouinn.com, $110-155), a sister property of the Presque Isle Inn, has 72 large, comfortable guest rooms and suites with air-conditioning, cable TV, Wi-Fi, and refrigerators (suites have kitchenettes). Facilities include an indoor pool, a health club, a restaurant, and a coin-op laundry. (Request a room away from the pool area.) Kids under age 13 stay free. Pet-friendly rooms are available for a small fee.
Russell’s Motel (357 Main St., Caribou, 207/498-2567, www.russellsmotel.com, $65) is a vintage motel that provides a lot of bang for the buck. The paneled rooms have TVs, air-conditioning, fridges, microwaves, and Wi-Fi. Long distance calls are free, and kids under age 12 stay free.
A bit out of the way, but ideal for snowmobilers, is the Aroostook Hospitality Inn (23 Langille St., Washburn, 207/455-8567, www.aroostookhospitalityinn.com, $65-90), where rates include a continental breakfast and Wi-Fi.
Campsites at Aroostook State Park (State Park Rd., Presque Isle, 207/768-8341, parksandlands.com) are $20 for nonresidents, $12 for Maine residents. Sites are wooded and close to Echo Lake. Campers have a shower house with free hot showers and a cookhouse with a cookstove, a sink for washing dishes, picnic tables, and a cabinet of games. To be sure of a campsite on summer weekends, make reservations online (www.campwithme.com) or by phone (207/624-9950 out of state or 800/332-1501 in Maine; MasterCard or Visa required) at least two weeks ahead; there is a two-night minimum for reservations.
The 34 lakefront RV campsites at Trafton Lake Campground (Ward Rd., Limestone, 207/325-4704, late May-early Sept.) have full hookups and are $20/day, $110/week. The 10 tent sites are $10/day, $60/week. The campground is 2.5 miles off Route 89.
As with other parts of Maine, Aroostook County has frequent public suppers throughout the summer. Visitors are welcome, even encouraged (most suppers benefit a good cause), so check the papers, line up early, and enjoy the local food and color.
For a guaranteed dose of local color—and decent food besides—pull up at Al’s Diner (87 Main St./Rte. 1, Mars Hill, 207/429-8186, 5am-8pm Mon.-Thurs., 5am-9pm Fri.-Sat., 6am-9pm Sun., $6-18), a friendly village restaurant that started as an ice cream shop in 1937. The third generation is now running the place. For breakfast, try the Aroostook omelet, made with potatoes, of course.
Just south of Mars Hill, The Country Bakery (Rte. 1, 207/425-4140, 5:30am-5pm Tues.-Fri., 5:30am-4pm Sat.) is an Amish-run spot with a smattering of tables. Stop in for inexpensive breakfasts and freshly made sandwiches, pizzas, and occasionally barbecue, along with delicious doughnuts and other treats.
Despite its name, the Riverside Inn Restaurant (399 Main St., Presque Isle, 207/764-1447, 5am-3pm Mon.-Wed., 5am-7pm Thurs. and Sat., 5am-8pm Fri., 6am-3pm Sun., $5-12) doesn’t have a river view. It’s a cozy neighborhood place with perhaps a dozen booths, a four-stool counter, and a glass case filled with home-baked goodies, including doughnuts and cookies. Breakfast is served all day along with the usual home-style fare. It’s in downtown Presque Isle close to Riverside Park and set back from the street.
Pop into Star City Coffee (483 Main St., 207/554-4222, 6:30am-2pm Mon.-Tues., to 8pm Wed.-Sat.) for The County’s best coffees, along with soups and sandwiches.
Stock up on picnic goodies at the Presque Isle Farmers Market (9am-1pm Sat. mid-May-mid-Oct.), held in the Sears parking lot at the Aroostook Center Mall.
The Whole Potato Café & Commons (428 Main St., 207/554-4258, 11am-3pm Tues., 11am-8pm Wed.-Sat., 10am-2pm Sun.) is a community-oriented spot, with a gallery, performance space, and a kitchen serving sandwiches, wraps, potato skillets, and similar fare, with as much as possible drawn from local farmers. Maine brews and wines are also available. There’s an inside children’s play area too.
Corned beef and cabbage, shepherd’s pie, bangers and mash, and fish-and-chips are nightly dinner specials at the Irish Setter Pub (710 Main St., 207/764-5400, 11am-9pm Mon.-Wed., 11am-11pm Thurs.-Sat. $10-20), a congenial and popular spot just north of downtown.
Here’s a welcome change to the usual deep-fried and family fare: M Café Sorpreso (415 Main St., Presque Isle, 207/764-1854, 11am-2pm and 5pm-8pm Tues.-Sat., $17-28) is an inviting, contemporary downtown restaurant with a menu that changes biweekly and emphasizes fresh and, when possible, local Maine foods.
Farms Bakery & Coffee Shop (118 Bennett Dr., 207/493-4508, 6am-2pm Tues.-Sat.) is the place to go for scratch-made croissants, delicious pastries, and light lunches. On Friday and Saturday go early for the to-die-for pecan rolls.
Here’s a classic and a deal: Burger Boy (344 Sweden St., 207/498-2329, 10:30am-9pm Mon.-Sat., 11am-9pm Sun.) has been serving fresh ground burgers, house-made fries, and decent shakes since the 1940s. There’s a drive-through, but for the real flavor of the joint, eat in the dining area amid table jukeboxes (sorry, none work), 45 records, and other vintage decor. Burgers start at $2.22.
Napoli’s Italian Restaurant and Pizzeria (6 Center St., 207/493-1446, 11am-8pm, Mon.-Wed., to 9pm Thurs.-Sat., $6-20) has a solid reputation for excellent salads, large portions, good pizzas, and traditional Italian fare. There’s a kids’ menu available. Dine in the lounge, where you can catch the game on the big-screen TV or in the dining room.
Inexpensive home cooking is the draw for Frederick’s Restaurant (507 Main St., 207/498-3464, 11am-8pm Tues.-Sat., noon-7pm Sun.).
Check out the golf simulator or the 10 TVs while waiting for your dinner at the Par & Grill (118 Bennett Dr., Caribou, 207/492-0988, from 11:30am daily) sports bar. Entrées range from burritos to porterhouse steak, with most ranging $5-14; children’s menu available.
Wander well off the beaten path for an enchanted evening at M Canterbury Royale (182 Sam Everett Rd., 207/472-4910), a destination-dining experience. Guests are immersed in an Old World European setting for elegant seven-course diners Tuesday-Sunday featuring haute French cuisine served in a private dining room. You’re provided a menu in advance, from which you choose the entrée from among nearly 20 choices, and then half-sisters and classically trained chefs Barbara Boucher and Renee O’Neill choose the other courses. The setting, presentation, and food are sublime. Tables are set with crystal, silver, elaborate candelabras, and marble accents. Some furnishings and the elaborate, decorative woodwork were hand-carved by Renee. Cost varies with menu choices, ranging $37-100 pp, plus tax, tip, and wine. Plan far in advance, as only two parties are seated each evening. Reservations are required, and jeans, T-shirts, shorts, or sneakers are not allowed. The restaurant also offers European-style five-course brunches for $25 pp.
Good food at a fair price keeps locals returning to Boondock’s Grille (294 Main St., 207/472-6074, 11am-7pm Wed.-Thurs., to 9pm Fri.-Sat., to 3pm Sun.), with prices in the $6-18 range.
Time a visit to the Swedish Colony to enjoy a meal at Eureka Hall Restaurant and Tavern (5 School St., Stockholm, 207/896-3196, noon-11pm Thurs.-Sat., noon-9pm Sun., $6-18), serving American fare in a sit-down setting upstairs and pizza and subs downstairs. There’s often live music. Do call, as hours change frequently.
Local info is available from the Central Aroostook Chamber of Commerce (207/764-6561, www.pichamber.com) and the Caribou Chamber of Commerce (207/498-6156 or 800/722-7648, www.cariboumaine.net). Also check out Caribou Public Library (30 High St., Caribou, 207/493-4214, www.caribou-public.lib.me.us) and the Mark & Emily Turner Memorial Library (39 Second St., Presque Isle, 207/764-1572, www.presqueisle.lib.me.us).
Aroostook County Tourism (888/216-2463, www.visitaroostook.com) and Aroostook Outdoors (www.goaroostookoutdoors.com) have information and Web links for the entire county.
Presque Isle is about 42 miles or 50 minutes via Route 1 from Houlton. It’s about 56 miles or 1.25 hours to Fort Kent via Route 1.
PenAir operates daily nonstop flights between Boston’s Logan Airport and Northern Maine Regional Airport in Presque Isle (PQI, 650 Airport Dr., 207/764-2550, www.flypresqueisle.com). While at the airport, check out the Presque Isle Air Museum (207/764-2542), which displays historical photos and memorabilia from Presque Isle’s impressive aviation history in two corridors.
Settled by Acadians in 1785, the St. John Valley isn’t quite sure whether it should be the 51st state or Canada’s 11th province. Valley hallmarks are huge Roman Catholic churches, small riverside communities, tidy homes, an eclectic French patois, and a handful of unique culinary specialties—all thanks to a twist of fate.
Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s immortal epic poem Evangeline relates a saga of le grand dérangement, when more than 10,000 French-speaking Acadians tragically lost their lease on Nova Scotia after the British expelled them for disloyalty in 1755—a date engraved ever since in the minds of their thousands of descendants now living on the American and Canadian sides of the St. John River. (Thousands more of their kin ended up in Louisiana, where Acadian-Cajun traditions also remain strong.)
In this part of Maine, Smiths and Joneses are few—countless residents bear such names as Cyr, Daigle, Gagnon, Michaud, Ouellette, Pelletier, Sirois, and Thibodeau. In Van Buren (pop. 2,171), Grand Isle (pop. 467), Madawaska (pop. 4,035), St. Agatha (pop. 747), and Frenchville (pop. 1,087), French is the mother tongue for 97 percent of the residents, who refer to the Upper St. John Valley as chez nous (“our place”), their homeland. Many roadside and shop signs are bilingual—even the name board for the University of Maine branch in Fort Kent.
Religion is as pervasive an influence as language. When a Madawaska beauty represented Maine in the Miss America contest in 1995, the local St. John Valley Times admonished its readers: “Keep your fingers crossed and your rosaries hot.”
Since the 1970s, renewed local interest in and appreciation for Acadian culture has spurred cultural projects, celebrations, and genealogical research throughout the valley, with the eventual goal of a National Park Service Acadian culture center. “Valley French,” a unique archaic patois long stigmatized in Maine schools, has undergone a revival. Since the 1970s, several valley schools have established bilingual programs, and a 1991 survey estimated that 40 percent of valley schoolchildren speak both English and French. The 2014 Acadian World Congress celebrated the valley’s roots.
Controversy erupts periodically over whose lineage is “true” Acadian (as opposed to Québécois—although many Acadians also fled to Québec), but valley residents all turn out en masse for the summer highlight: Madawaska’s multiday Acadian Festival in mid-August. It’s a local festival unlike any other in Maine. If you plan to visit then, make lodging plans far in advance. Thousands of far-flung descendants of whichever founding family is being honored each year book every room on both sides of the border.
Between Madawaska and Fort Kent, detour off Route 1, via Route 162, into the lovely lake district, locally known as the “back settlements,” through the town of St. Agatha (usually pronounced the French way: “Saint a-GAHT”) and the village of Sinclair. T-shaped Long Lake is the northernmost of the Fish River Chain of Lakes, extending southwest to Eagle Lake.
West of Fort Kent are the tiny and tinier riverside communities of St. John (pop. 267), St. Francis (pop. 485), Allagash (pop. 239), and Dickey, the latter two serving as endpoints for two of Maine’s most popular long-distance canoe routes: the St. John River and the Allagash Wilderness Waterway.
An excellent companion when touring the St. John Valley is Voici the Valley Cultureway, a guidebook and CD, that highlights the heritage and sights. It can be purchased locally ($15) or ordered in advance from the Maine Acadian Heritage Council (207/728-6826, www.voicithevalley.org).
The St. John River serves as the border between the United States and Canada at the tip of Aroostook County.
In the hamlet of Keegan, about two miles northwest of downtown Van Buren, is a prominent reminder of the heritage in this valley. Begun as a small-scale bicentennial project in 1976, the Acadian Village (Rte. 1, Van Buren, 207/868-5042, www.connectmaine.com/acadianvillage, $6 adults, $3 children, noon-5pm daily June 15-Sept. 15) is a 2.5-acre open-air museum comprising 17 antique and replica buildings in an A-shaped layout. Included are a country store, a forge, a schoolhouse, a chapel, and several residences. This isn’t a sophisticated museum, but it does convey the region’s heritage. Tours by attentive guides vividly convey the daily struggles of 18th-19th-century Acadians in the valley. Kids particularly enjoy the schoolhouse and the barbershop; outside, there’s plenty of letting-off-steam room.
As with the other religion-dominated communities in the valley, the most prominent landmark in the Lille village of Grand Isle (pop. 467) is the former Catholic church, a Baroque, twin golden-domed building undergoing long-term restoration as a nonprofit bilingual museum and cultural center. Built in 1910, Our Lady of Mount Carmel Church had its first mass on New Year’s Day 1910 and its last in 1978. Since historian, preservationist, and renaissance man Don Cyr took over the wooden church in 1984, he has organized concerts and other events under the aegis of the nonprofit Mount Carmel Cultural and Historic Association (207/895-3339, www.museeculturel.org). He also shares his collection of Acadian antiques and artifacts. The church is usually open noon-4pm Sunday and Tuesday-Thursday mid-June-early September for docent-led tours. It also hosts concerts and lectures. While here, walk 100 yards or so down Route 1 to the gallery, showing contemporary and traditional art, in the former Lawrence Parent General Store.
As you reach the eastern edge of Madawaska, you can’t help but notice the bell tower of the imposing brick neo-Gothic St. David Catholic Church, established in 1871. The building, on the National Register of Historic Places, is usually open and has a high arched ceiling, a domed altar, and stained-glass windows.
Just to the right (east) of St. David’s is the one-room Tante Blanche Museum (Rte. 1, St. David Parish, Madawaska, 207/728-4518, free), containing Acadian artifacts. Run by the Madawaska Historical Society (www.madawaskahistorical.org), the log museum commemorates Marguerite Blanche Thibodeau Cyr (“Tante Blanche”), an Acadian heroine during a 1797 famine. The museum is usually open 11am-4pm Wednesday-Sunday mid-June-early September; on-site volunteers answer questions and provide guidance. The museum’s campus also includes the 1870 School House No. 1 and the circa 1840 Albert House.
Continue down the 0.5-mile gravel road to the riverfront, where a 14-foot-high marble Acadian Cross marks the reputed 1785 landing spot of Acadians expelled by the British from Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. During the annual Acadian Festival, the landing is reenacted.
Built in 1839 during the decades-long U.S.-Canada border dispute known as the Aroostook War, the Fort Kent Blockhouse (Blockhouse Rd., Fort Kent, 9am-5pm daily late May-early Sept., free), a National Historic Landmark, is the only remnant of a complex that once included barracks, a hospital, and an ammunition hoard. On the second floor are historic artifacts plus information about the curious “bloodless” border skirmish over timber rights. Bring a picnic and commandeer a table in the pretty little riverside park just below the fort (tent camping is allowed, $4 pp or $10/carload). Early in the summer, before the river dwindles, you can also launch a canoe or kayak here. The Fort Kent Eagle Scouts maintain and staff the blockhouse and the nearby log-cabin gift shop.
The station, on the National Register of Historic Places, was in service 1902-1979 and was part of the Bangor and Aroostook Railroad’s Fish River division. It’s now the home of the Fort Kent Historical Society and Gardens (207/834-5354, noon-4pm Tues.-Fri. late June-mid-Aug.)
The bridge to Canada marks the northern end of Historic U.S. Route 1, with Key West, Florida, anchoring the southern end. You are 318 miles north of Portland, 368 miles north of the New Hampshire border at Kittery, and 2,209 miles north of Key West.
Wow! This tiny town (pop. 747), has one heck of a museum: the St. Agatha Historical House and Preservation Center (433 Main St., St. Agatha, 207/543-6911, 1pm-4pm Tues.-Sun. mid-June-early Sept., donation). Volunteers assist guests touring both the oldest house in town and the museum, which is chock-full of interesting artifacts and exhibits (carvings, textiles, farm equipment, religious and school goods, and much more). It’s easy to while away an hour or so here.
Founded in 1878 as a teacher-training school, the University of Maine at Fort Kent (UMFK, 25 Pleasant St., Fort Kent, 207/834-7500, www.umfk.maine.edu) still prides itself on the quality of its teacher-education program. Because of its location in the Upper St. John Valley, UMFK also offers a BS degree in bilingual and bicultural studies, and the school’s Acadian Archives (207/834-7535, www.umfk.maine.edu/archives) are the state’s best resource on Maine’s Acadian heritage.
Few people visit Allagash, sited where the famed Allagash Wilderness Waterway flows into the St. John River. Contemporary author Cathie Pelletier, who grew up here, called the town “Mattagash” in her entertaining novels of life in northern Maine. One doesn’t visit here for the sights—there really aren’t any. Or the shopping: Less than a handful of businesses cater to paddlers, hunters, anglers, and snowmobilers. One comes to Allagash for a taste of frontier life, to experience a way of life that’s disappeared from most of America. Visit Allagash, and you’ll feel as if you’ve arrived not only at the end of the road, but also at the end of the world, and in some ways you have.
Unlike the rest of the St. John Valley, Maine’s largest town in terms of total land mass was settled by Irish and English immigrants, so it’s not unusual to find lots of Irish surnames, such as McBrearity and Kelly. These days moose and bear far outnumber people.
As long as you’re not squeamish about hunting, step into Two Rivers Lunch (75 Dickey Rd., Allagash, 207/398-3393, 7am-3pm daily), a down-home place decorated with animal trophies and hunting pics. Tylor and Leitha Kelly opened it as a hot dog stand in 1976, and Leitha is still at the stove. The menu tops out at around $8. Order a grilled cheese, some coleslaw, and the house-made mixed fries, and then strike up a conversation with the locals.
An idyllic setting for a picnic, Fish River Falls, a Class IV rapid, is a bit of a local secret, since finding it isn’t easy. Take Route 162 south, and when you see Bouchard Family Farms (which grows acres of buckwheat for ployes, a traditional Acadian pancake), bear right on Strip Road; watch for Airport Road on the right. There’s a small sign noting falls access. Once you get to the parking area, the falls are a 10-minute stroll slightly downhill. Carry a picnic and sit on the rocks, which have potholes formed by grinding boulders and likely dating back to the glacier age.
Wildlife-watchers, hikers, anglers, campers, snowmobilers, and pretty much anyone who enjoys the great outdoors will appreciate the 21,871-acre Deboullie Public Reserve Lands (207/435-7963, www.parksandlands.com). Wildlife-watching is excellent throughout the reserve thanks to varied habitats that include ponds, streams, marshes, and woodlands. Watch for deer and moose, beavers and snowshoe hares, loons and bald eagles. While the northern three-quarters of the preserve is gently rolling forested ridges, the southern quarter has mountains to climb and ponds for boating and fishing. Brook trout are abundant in most of the ponds; landlocked salmon can be hooked in Togue Pond. Hike Deboullie Mountain to the inactive fire station at the top for panoramic views of the region. Along the route, keep an eye out for ice caves, deep crevices in the rocks where ice can remain year-round. Allow at least four hours for the six-mile hike. Primitive waterfront campsites dot the preserve, but for those who prefer a roof over their heads, Red River Camps (www.redrivercamps.com) is a traditional sporting camp on Island Pond. Debouillie gives meaning to the word remote. It’s about 30 rugged miles southwest of Fort Kent. Access is via the North Maine Woods (www.northmainewoods.org) checkpoint in St. Francis. The name Deboullie, by the way, is derived from a French term meaning “tumble down,” referring to rock slides.
The 17-mile crushed-stone Saint John Valley Heritage Trail edges the south bank of the St. John River between Fort Kent and St. Francis and connects with area ATV and snowmobile trails. It’s also part of the National Park Service’s Acadian interpretation efforts.
The St. John, the longest free-flowing river east of the Mississippi, doubles as the international border. Public boat access points are plentiful, but land only on the U.S. shoreline. A good resource is Northern Forest Canoe Trail (www.northernforestcanoetrail.org).
The Bangor and Aroostook Railroad line runs right through the first and ninth holes at the Fort Kent Golf Club (St. John Rd./Rte. 161, Fort Kent, 207/834-3149). The nine-hole hilly course has dynamite views of the St. John River. The attractive clubhouse has a bar and light meals.
The ninth hole at the nine-hole Birch Point Country Club (Birch Point Rd., St. David, 207/895-6957) has the distinction of being New England’s northernmost golfing hole. The clubhouse has a bar and a basic food menu; cart rentals are available.
Birch Point Beach (Chapel Rd., St. David, on the east side of Long Lake; turnoff to the beach at St. Michael’s Chapel) has a small grassy area with picnic tables; the lake views are fantastic.
A lovely picnic and recreation area (Rte. 162, St. Agatha) on the western shore of Long Lake has a boat launch, a beach, grills, and restrooms.
One of the top cross-country skiing facilities in the world, The 10th Mountain Center (Paradise Circle Rd., Fort Kent, 207/834-6203, www.10thmtskiclub.org, free) has hosted World Cup Biathlon events. Another of the successful Maine Winter Sports Center facilities, this one has a biathlon and cross-country facility, with 7.5 miles of biathlon trails, plus an additional 18 miles of cross-country trails, a lighted roller-ski loop, a wax building, a stadium, and a full biathlon range with 30 shooting stations. Snowshoes and pets are permitted on 1.4-mile Volunteer’s Way, also known as the Pet Loop. The lodge, with a sauna and a fireplace, is a comfy place to relax after a day on the trails. The center’s access road is 1.6 miles south of downtown Fort Kent off Route 1.
Just a couple of blocks off Main Street is Lonesome Pine Trails (Forest Ave., Fort Kent, 207/834-5202, www.lonesomepines.org), a volunteer-run community hill with a 500-foot vertical drop served by two tows; there is also night skiing. Adult tickets are $20 full day, $15 half day.
This is prime sledding country. The best resource for trail info is Fort Kent SnoRiders (www.fortkentsnoriders.com). At Top of Maine Rentals (379 Aroostook Rd./Rte. 11, Fort Kent, 207/834-3095) expect to pay around $200 for a one-day rental.
Spectators crowd the snowy streets to watch Fort Kent’s five-day March Can Am Crown International Sled Dog Races (www.can-am-crown.net). Special locations offer vantage points for watching teams competing in races for 30, 60, and 250 miles. A mushers’ award ceremony is the finale.
Madawaska hosts the Franco-American Acadian Festival (www.acadianfestival.com) with a historical reenactment, tournaments, a fishing derby, Acadian food, music and dancing, a parade, and a featured-family reunion in mid-August.
Lodging options are slim on this side of the border.
The circa 1969 Aroostook Hospitality Inn (95 Main St., Van Buren, 207/455-8567, www.aroostookhospitalityinn.com, from $70) was renovated in 2009 and now welcomes guests with new furnishings and fixtures. Rates include a nice continental breakfast. Guests have access to a huge gathering room with a fireplace—nice for a winter’s eve. Guest rooms have refrigerators, air-conditioning, and Wi-Fi. It’s walking distance to downtown shops and restaurants.
Just across the road from the lake, the Long Lake Motor Inn (596 Main St./Rte. 162, St. Agatha, 207/543-5006, www.stagatha.com/longlake, $67-72) has 18 spacious guest rooms with phones, flat-screen TVs, refrigerators, and microwaves; 11 with lake views (and great sunrises) and two two-bedroom lakefront units with kitchenettes. Continental breakfast is included, and there’s a lounge on the premises.
The Lakeview Camping Resort (9 Lakeview Dr., St. Agatha, 207/543-6331, www.lakeviewrestaurant.biz) has 80 mostly wooded sites, with areas for RVs ($26-42) and tents ($21 d). Also on-site are a convenience store, a shower house, and a restaurant.
New in 2013, the M Inn of Acadia (384 St. Thomas St., 207/728-3402, www.innofacadia.com, $89-149), a boutique inn, was created out of a former convent. This is The County’s finest lodging, with 15 air-conditioned rooms and four suites decorated in a sleek, contemporary style and furnished with Wi-Fi, flat-screen TVs, and mini-fridges. Also here are a café, lounge, fitness studio, and guest laundry. Rates include a continental breakfast. Light fare may be offered in the lounge, where there’s acoustical music on Friday and Saturday evenings. Airport shuttles are available.
Clean, comfortable, and inexpensive, the downtown Northern Door Inn (356 W. Main St., Fort Kent, 207/834-3133 or 866/834-3133, www.northerndoorinn.com, $84) has a nice gathering area in the lobby, where a meager continental breakfast is served. Rooms have air-conditioning, phones, refrigerators, TVs, and Wi-Fi. There’s a guest laundry. Don’t look for fancy; this place is old and due for a major updating. Kids 12 and under are free; pets are $5 each per night.
The fanciest lodging in the region is the M Four Seasons Inn of Soldier Pond (13 Church St., Wallagrass, 207/834-4722, www.fourseasonsinnofsoldierpond.com, $99-149), a renovated merchant’s house overlooking the Fishkill River about 15 minutes south of Fort Kent. A lot of thought went into the renovations; every room has air conditioning, Wi-Fi, plush bedding, robes, and flat-screen TVs; some have jetted tubs and river views. Public spaces include a formal parlor, a comfy library, a guest pantry, and a gazebo by the river. Rates include a continental breakfast. The innkeeper doesn’t live on the premises.
Check local papers and bulletin boards for notices about public suppers, an inexpensive way to break bread with the locals.
Here’s a nice surprise: Robin’s Restaurant (44 Main St., Van Buren, 207/868-3044, 10am-8pm Mon.-Sat., 8am-7pm Sun., $3-14), an unfussy, welcoming family-owned and operated downtown spot, has a menu that ranges from burgers and pizzas to pork chops and lobster Alfredo.
Roughly 11 miles west of Madawaska, on Route 1 North, you’ll find Frenchville. If you arrive in time for lunch or dinner, stop in at Rosette’s Restaurant (240 Main St./Rte. 1, Frenchville, 207/543-7759, 10:30am-8pm Tues.-Thurs., 7am-9pm Fri.-Sat., 7am-8pm Sun., $3-20), a valley favorite. Almost everything’s homemade, prices are very reasonable, and the color is local; expect to hear a mix of French and English.
Ask anyone in the valley: When it comes to ployes (buckwheat pancakes), creton (a meat spread), and chicken stew, no one does it better than M Dolly’s (Rte. 1, Frenchville, 207/728-7050, 7am-8pm Wed.-Mon., 7am-8:30pm Fri.-Sat., $4-18), a Valley institution since 1988. Go early for the chicken stew as it always sells out.
When it’s time for a meal, head up the hill for the best panorama in town at The Lakeview Restaurant (9 Lakeview Dr., St. Agatha, 207/543-6331, www.lakeviewrestaurant.biz, 7am-9pm, $8-26). An awning-covered deck has sweeping views over Long Lake; indoor booths and tables have plenty of visibility. The wide-ranging menu has a choice and price for every taste and budget. Lakeview doesn’t take reservations.
Purchase potatoes, ployes mix, farm fresh produce, and local crafts at Bouchard’s Country Store.
The best view in the village of Sinclair, about six miles down the road from St. Agatha, is at the M Long Lake Sporting Club Resort (Rte. 162, Sinclair, 207/543-7584 or 800/431-7584, www.longlakesportingclub.com 5pm-9pm Mon.-Sat., noon-8pm Sun.). Seemingly in the middle of nowhere, this informal place is almost always crowded. In summer, guests come by boat or car, occasionally by floatplane; in winter, they arrive by snowmobile. The deck and dining room have fabulous views over Long Lake. Huge steaks and giant lobsters are specialties, and all meals come with ployes, Acadian buckwheat pancakes typically served with an artery-clogging pâté called creton. Most entrées are in the $20s.
Purchase ployes mix, farm-fresh produce, and local crafts at Bouchard’s Country Store (Rte. 161, 207/843-3237).
Prime rib is the specialty at The Swamp Buck (250 W. Main St./Rte. 1, Fort Kent, 207/834-3055, 11am-9pm Mon.-Sat., 9am-9pm Sun., $10-24), but the menu ranges from decent burgers to blackened haddock, and there’s a kids’ menu too.
Dining options expand beyond the usual burgers, fried food, and family fare at The Custom Cake Cafe (142 W. Main St./Rte. 1, Fort Kent, 207/834-1140, www.customcakecafe.com, 7am-3pm Mon.-Sat. and 5pm-9pm Wed.-Sat., $14-26). Sample entrées such as duck breast and filet mignon. Nightly dinners often have themes, such as Mexican, pub, or gourmet.
Walk into Doris’s Cafe (345 Market St./Rte. 161, Fort Kent Mills, 207/834-6262, 5am-2pm Mon.-Fri., to noon Sat.), and conversation ceases as every head in the place turns to see the stranger. Not to worry; chatter quickly resumes—and you can catch all the local gossip. Expect specials such as American chop suey. If you’ve never had poutine (French fries smothered with gravy and cheese), you can order it here.
Try to snag a window table overlooking the Fish River at the Mill Bridge Restaurant (271 Market St., 207/834-9117, 10:30am-9pm Mon.-Sat., 8:30am-9pm Sun., $4-18), a bright spot with a menu ranging from pizza and pastas to fried seafood and steak, along with beer and wine. Kid-friendly options are $5.
For local information, check with the Greater Madawaska Chamber of Commerce (356 Main St./Rte. 1, Madawaska, 207/728-7000, www.greatermadawaskachamber.com) and the Greater Fort Kent Area Chamber of Commerce (76 W. Main St./Rte. 1, Fort Kent, 207/834-5354 or 800/733-3563, www.fortkentchamber.com), which serves as a clearinghouse for much of the Upper St. John Valley.
Aroostook County Tourism (888/216-2463, www.visitaroostook.com) has information and Web links for the entire county.
The 1994 National Park Service publication Acadian Culture in Maine is available online at http://acim.umfk.maine.edu.
Fort Kent is about 56 miles or 1.25 hours from Presque Isle via Route 1. It’s about 96 miles or 2.25 hours to Patten via Route 11.
If you’re planning to pass through one of the three U.S.-Canada border stations, have the proper identification and paperwork. For crossings into the United States, see www.cbp.gov. For crossings into Canada, see www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca. Remember that New Brunswick is on Atlantic time, an hour later than eastern time.
The U.S. Customs office maintains offices in Van Buren (207/868-3391), Madawaska (207/728-4376), and Fort Kent (207/834-5255). All are open 24 hours daily.
The rolling farmlands of northern Aroostook give way to forests and mountains as you drive south on Route 11 from Fort Kent. If you took a poll among those who know, especially photographers, the stretch from Fort Kent through Eagle Lake to Portage would probably rank near the top as a favorite fall foliage drive. What’s so appealing along this 37-mile Scenic Highway? Brilliant colors roll down hills, dapple open vistas, and reflect in the smattering of lakes and ponds.
Through the years, Eagle Lake (pop. 864) has benefited heavily from being the hometown of John Martin, one of Maine’s most influential politicians, who served an unprecedented 10 terms as speaker of Maine’s House of Representatives. The town really looks as though someone has been paying attention. The official rest area, overlooking the lake, has picnic tables and plenty of parking. Many a photo has been snapped here. Eighteen-mile-long L-shaped Eagle Lake is a key link in the Fish River Chain of Lakes, starting at Long Lake in St. Agatha. In winter, the lake supports wall-to-wall ice-fishing shacks.
Portage (pop. 391) is particularly popular as a summer playground, and many county residents have built or rented camps on the shores of Portage Lake.
Considered the “Gateway to the North Maine Woods,” Ashland (pop. 1,302) is the home of North Maine Woods (207/435-6213, www.northmainewoods.org), a private organization charged with managing recreational use of more than three million acres of northern Maine’s working timberlands. Visit the website to download maps and a detailed brochure or for information on where to go, how to get there, what to do, and where to sleep.
Route 11 continues southward and out of Aroostook County to Patten, Medway, and Millinocket. One note: Don’t expect to be alone with the moose and other wildlife out here; logging trucks legally own the road, and they know it, so give them a wide berth.
There’s not much to see at the open-air Ashland Logging Museum (Garfield Rd., Ashland), which has six buildings containing a blacksmith shop, old woods rigs, and other gear, as well as a fire tower, but it’s worth a quick look-see. For a more in-depth look, make an appointment (AshlandLoggingMuseum@gmail.com). Just before Ashland, when Route 11 takes a sharp left, turn right onto Garfield Road and go a little less than a mile.
About eight miles south of Eagle Lake is the wooded Hedgehog Mountain Rest Area, trailhead for the 1.5-mile round-trip Hedgehog Mountain. It’s not the most exciting climb, and the summit view is so-so, but it’s fairly steep, so it’s a good little workout.
About 10 miles east of Ashland on Route 163 (Presque Isle Rd.) is the trailhead (on the left) for Haystack Mountain, a quarter-mile climb. It begins with an easy hike through the woods then steepens near the fairly bald summit; keep left at the trail split to avoid the steepest section. Pack a picnic so you can enjoy the almost 360-degree view.
Eagle Lake’s town park, down at lake level, has shorefront picnic tables and grills. The wind kicks up wildly at times, but on a calm day, this is a fine place to launch a canoe. From Route 11, turn at Old Main Street and go 0.6 mile; there’s plenty of parking.
From Route 11, turn west at West Cottage Road and go 0.5 mile to reach the Portage town beach. The view is fabulous, and parking is ample; there are picnic tables, a grill, and a grassy “beach.”
Roughly midway between Ashland and Masardis, in the town of Masardis, is an access road to the boat landing for Squa Pan Lake, probably the oddest-shaped lake in the state.
Detour out to Made in Aroostook (685 Oxbow Rd., Oxbow, 207/435-6171) for a selection of fine and folk crafts, from jewelry to quilts, all locally made.
Patten is about 96 miles or 2.25 hours from Fort Kent via Route 11. It’s 40 miles or 50 minutes to Millinocket via I-95 and Route 157 or 90 miles or 1.5 hours to Bangor.
