For more than 3,000 years, the Kennebec and Québec’s Chaudière Rivers have been the primary routes for trade and migration between Canada’s St. Lawrence River and the Gulf of Maine, between Québec City and the sea. People and goods have moved through history along this corridor: farmers migrating north, hoping to profit from the Québec market; French, Irish, and British families moving south in search of opportunity; escaping slaves following the Underground Railroad north; economic opportunists smuggling alcohol south during prohibition. The most famous traveler was Benedict Arnold, who followed the route on foot and in bateaux with a band of Colonial militia in 1775 in his ill-fated attempt to capture Québec City from the British.
The river wends its way through Somerset and Kennebec Counties from Indian Pond through The Forks, Bingham, Skowhegan, Waterville, Augusta, and Richmond, and then on toward the sea at Bath. Augusta, the state’s capital, is rich in historical sights and balanced by the shops and restaurants in Hallowell. Waterville is home to Colby College, alone worth a visit for its Museum of Art. The region’s lovely lakes districts—Belgrade Lakes, China Lakes, and Winthrop Lakes—have been favorite summer destinations for generations upon generations. On the outskirts are rural farming communities such as Unity, home to an Amish colony and an annual organic-foods fair that’s a draw for urbanites and back-to-the-landers alike.
Many towns along the Kennebec had wood or textile mills. Locals called the rotten-egg stench emitted from the papermaking smokestacks “the smell of money.” The region’s mill-driven economy is dying, and dependent communities take a big hit with each closure or cutback. Many are finding new hope for the future in renovating old mills into new housing and business complexes or in ecotourism, especially from Skowhegan north, where the wilderness lakes, forests, and mountains provide endless opportunities for outdoors-oriented folks. And on the culinary front, Skowhegan is now Maine’s bread center and Somerset County has the distinction of being the country’s top producer of maple syrup.
LOOK FOR M TO FIND RECOMMENDED SIGHTS, ACTIVITIES, DINING, AND LODGING.
M Maine State Museum: Spend a few hours immersed in Maine’s history and pick up all kinds of “Well, what do you know?” trivia (click here).
M Old Fort Western: The nation’s oldest stockaded fort hosted Benedict Arnold on his march to Québec (click here).
M Pownalborough Court House: President John Adams once handled a trial in this pre-Revolutionary riverside courthouse (click here).
M Colby College Museum of Art: American art is on display in this recently expanded campus museum (click here).
M L. C. Bates Museum: View all sorts of eccentric natural-history relics and then walk the trails in the forest (click here).
M South Solon Meetinghouse: From the exterior it looks like just another New England meetinghouse—inside, however, wow! (click here)
M Moxie Falls: It’s a short hike into one of New England’s tallest waterfalls (click here).
M Old Canada Road National Scenic Byway: Benedict Arnold marched his troops along a good stretch of this National Scenic Byway along the Kennebec River (click here).
M White-Water Rafting: For thrills, take a wild guided ride down the Kennebec River (click here).
Traditional outdoor sports such as hunting, fishing, hiking, camping, and boating were joined by white-water rafting in 1976. That’s the year timber companies stopped floating logs down the Kennebec to their lumber mills and gutsy outdoorsman Wayne Hockmeyer decided to take a rubber raft through the Kennebec Gorge. He survived, and since then, white-water rafting has mushroomed, focusing long-overdue attention on the beautiful Upper Kennebec Valley and creating a whole new crowd of enthusiasts for this region. Augmenting that is the Maine Huts Trail, which connects The Forks to Carrabassett Valley.
Depending on your interests, you can swim, canoe, raft, hike, mountain bike, snowmobile, or cross-country ski; tour museums and historic sites; take walking tours; shop; or blend it all into one rich excursion of history, heritage, culture, and adventure.
Getting around the region is easy: Route 201 parallels the Kennebec River from one end to the other. The downside is that Route 201 is also the major highway from Québec to the U.S. coast, and it may seem as if everyone else but you is simply trying to get from point A to point B in record time. Traffic generally isn’t heavy, but it can be disconcerting to have a big rig on your bumper on the narrow and winding stretches of the road. Once you’re above Skowhegan, moose also become a danger. Be wary, especially around dawn and dusk or in early spring, when moose often lick salt residue on roadsides.
Think of Route 201 as the region’s spine, and Routes 2, 3, 16, 17, and 27 as crucial vertebrae linking it to Maine’s Western Lakes and Mountains, Highlands, and Mid-Coast regions. There’s a good chance you’re going to pass through the region if you’re gallivanting around the state. From Norridgewock, Route 201A parallels the river on its western banks, passing through Madison and the Ansons and pretty farm country before rejoining Route 201 in Bingham.
Unless you’re a snowmobiler, May-October is the best time to appreciate this part of Maine. In May-June, blackflies are notorious and can make outdoor pleasures—with the exception of fishing—true misery. July-September, when both the air and water are warm, is the best time for white-water rafting, for recreation on the lakes, and for hiking. In late September-early October, when the foliage is at its peak, driving the northern stretch of Route 201, a National Scenic Byway, is glorious.
Outdoor enthusiasts will want to spend at least 2-3 days in and around The Forks or Jackman region, where rafting, canoeing, and hiking opportunities are plentiful. Plan on another 1-2 days to visit the cultural diversions clustered in Augusta and Waterville. If you want to loop out to Unity and Thorndike, add another half day or so (but don’t even consider doing so during the third weekend in September, unless you’re heading to the Maine Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association’s annual Common Ground Fair). Of course, generations of folk spend a week or longer every summer in the lakes regions surrounding Augusta, but you can dip your toes in for a sample in a day or two.
If you’re history-minded—or just interested in “heritage touring”—consider following the Kennebec-Chaudière International Corridor, a historic route that stretches from Bath, Maine, to Québec City. Native Americans used it on foot and by canoe; Benedict Arnold used it; and enterprising 19th-century traders found it invaluable for moving their wares between the United States and Canada. Along the route are museums, churches, dramatic scenery, and French and American cultural centers. The heritage, people, and landscape are brought to life on a CD, Deep Woods and River Roads, narrated by Nick Spitzer, folklorist and host of Public Radio International’s American Routes. It can be purchased at museums and visitors centers along the route.
As the state capital, Augusta (pop. 19,136) is where everything is supposed to happen. A lot does happen here, but don’t be surprised to find the imposing State House and lovely governor’s mansion the centerpieces of a relatively sleepy city. Augusta is the seventh-largest city in Maine and no megalopolis, but it is the heart of state government and central Maine.
Pilgrims first settled here on the banks of the Kennebec River in the 17th century, and Boston merchants established Fort Western in the mid-18th century. Augusta was named state capital in 1827.
The three best-known communities south of Augusta—Hallowell, Gardiner, and Richmond—all scale down hillsides to the river, making their settings especially attractive. In Hallowell (pop. 2,381), settled in 1762, the main thoroughfare still retains the air of its former days as a prosperous port and source of granite and ice. The entire downtown, with brick sidewalks and attractive shops and restaurants, is a National Historic District.
Maine’s capitol is in Augusta.
Six miles south of Augusta, Gardiner (pop. 5,800), the “Tilbury Town” of noted author Edwin Arlington Robinson, claims more buildings on the National Register of Historic Places than any of its neighbors. The Gardiner Historic District includes more than 45 downtown buildings. Main Street is a gem, and although still too many storefronts are empty, there’s a bit of a buzz here. Besides Robinson, another prominent Gardiner resident was Laura Howe Richards, author of Captain January and daughter of Julia Ward Howe, who wrote “The Battle Hymn of the Republic.” (The yellow Federal-style home where Richards and her husband raised seven children, at 3 Dennis Street, is not open to the public.) Most outstanding of Gardiner’s mansions (also not open to the public) is Oaklands, a Gothic Revival home built in 1836 by the grandson of founding father Dr. Sylvester Gardiner, a wealthy land speculator.
Just over the border in Sagadahoc County, Richmond (pop. 3,411), also flush with handsome buildings, was the site of a Russian émigré community in the 1950s. Here’s a town that awaits rediscovery. Just over the bridge is a pre-Revolutionary courthouse, and north of that, also on the river, is the starting point of Benedict Arnold’s march to Québec.
West of Augusta, amid the Winthrop Lakes region, the town of Monmouth (pop. 4,104) is the site of Cumston Hall, a dramatic turn-of-the-20th-century structure that now houses the Theater at Monmouth as well as the municipal offices and public library.
From almost every vantage point in Augusta, your eye catches the prominent dome of the Maine State House, centerpiece of the government complex on the west side of the Kennebec River. Occupying the corner of State and Capitol Streets, the State House dates originally from 1832, when it was completed to the design of famed Boston architect Charles Bulfinch, who modeled it on his Massachusetts State House design. Only a dozen years had passed since Maine had separated from Massachusetts; Augusta had become the state capital in 1827. Granite for the building came from quarries in nearby Hallowell; the total construction cost was $145,000. Atop the oxidized copper dome stands a gold-gilded sculpture, Lady Wisdom. In the early 20th century, space needs forced a major expansion of the building, leaving only the eight-columned front portico as the Bulfinch legacy.
Visitors are welcome to wander around the State House (after clearing entry screening), but check first to see whether the legislature is in session. If so, parking becomes scarce, the hallways become congested, and access may be restricted. The best place to enter the building is on the west side, facing the more modern state office building; the entrance is marked “Maine State House.” Pick up the useful brochure for a self-guided tour, or better still, take a free 45-60-minute guided tour, usually available 9am and 11am and noon weekdays. Call ahead (207/287-2301; tours are organized by the Maine State Museum) to arrange it, or ask at the kiosk.
On the Blaine House side of the State House is a replica of the Liberty Bell, with the same dimensions, weight, aged-oak yoke, iron straps, hand-forged bolts, and inscription. Only the crack is indicated, so this one can ring true. The bell was crafted in 1950, when the U.S. Department of the Treasury donated one to each state to promote the Savings Bond Independence Drive.
If the Smithsonian is the nation’s attic, welcome to Maine’s attic—and a well-organized one at that. At the Maine State Museum (State House Complex, Augusta, 207/287-2301, www.mainestatemuseum.org, 9am-5pm Tues.-Fri., 10am-4pm Sat., $2 adults, $1 ages 6-18 and seniors, $6 family), gears and tools spin and whir in the intriguing Made in Maine industrial exhibits, focusing on quarrying, ice harvesting, fishing, agriculture, lumbering, and shipbuilding. A spiraled archaeological exhibit covers the past 12 millennia of Maine’s history. Some displays are interactive, and all exhibits are wheelchair-accessible. Gallery guides are available in French, German, Spanish, Japanese, and Russian. During the winter, the museum sponsors a free lecture series, and special programs occur throughout the year. A small gift shop stocks historical publications and Maine-related gifts and toys. The museum is part of the state government complex that includes the State House and the Maine State Library. The museum and library share a building, separated by a parking lot from the State House.
In 1833, a year after the State House was ready for business, retired sea captain James Hall finished his elegant new home across the street. But it was not until 29 years later, when prominent politico James G. Blaine assumed ownership, that the house became the hotbed of state and national political ferment. No underachiever, Blaine was a Maine congressman and senator, Speaker of the U.S. House, U.S. secretary of state under two presidents, and Republican candidate for the presidency. Two decades after his death, Blaine’s widow donated the family home to the state of Maine; it has been the governor’s mansion ever since.
Free 25-minute guided tours of the ground-floor public areas of the Blaine House (State St. and Capitol St., Augusta, 207/287-2121, www.blainehouse.org) are given 2pm-4pm Tuesday-Thursday year-round. Reservations are required and a completed security form is required and must be submitted prior to tour date.
Built in 1754 for the French and Indian Wars and restored as recently as 1988, Old Fort Western (16 Cony St., Augusta, 207/626-2385, www.oldfortwestern.org, 1pm-4pm daily late May-early Sept., 1pm-4pm Sat.-Sun. early Sept.-mid-Oct., $6 adults, $4 ages 6-16), reputedly the nation’s oldest remaining stockaded fort, has witnessed British, French, and Native Americans squabbling over this Kennebec riverfront site. Benedict Arnold and his troops camped here during their 1775 march to Québec. Today, costumed interpreters help visitors travel through time to the 18th century; hands-on demonstrations—butter churning, musket drill, barrel building, weaving, even vinegar making—occur daily Fourth of July-Labor Day. The fort is also open 1pm-3pm on the first Sunday of the month November-January, and 1pm-3pm on Maple Syrup Day, the fourth Sunday in March. The museum is on the east bank of the Kennebec River in downtown Augusta, next to Augusta City Hall.
If you’re an architecture fan or a history buff, don’t miss the 1761 Pownalborough Court House (River Rd./Rte. 128, Dresden, 207/882-9628, www.lincolncountyhistory.org, 10am-4pm Tues.-Sat. and noon-4pm Sun. July-Aug., Sat.-Sun. only June and Sept.-mid-Oct., $5 ages 15 and older), a pre-Revolutionary riverfront courthouse listed in the National Register of Historic Places. President John Adams once handled a trial here—in this mid-18th-century frontier community (named Pownalborough) established by French and German settlers. During the 30-minute tour of the three-story courthouse, docents delight in pointing out the restored beams, paneling, and fireplaces, as well as the on-site tavern that catered to judges, lawyers, and travelers. Walk a few hundred feet south and you’ll find a cemetery with graves of Revolutionary, War of 1812, and Civil War veterans. Also here are maintained trails along the riverfront and in the woods. From Richmond, take Route 195, crossing the river, and then Route 128 north. From here, if you continue north on 128 and then north on Route 27, you’ll come to the Colburn House.
Another must-stop for history buffs, the newly restored Major Reuben Colburn House (13 Arnold Rd., off Rte. 27, Pittston, www.maine.gov/colburnhouse, tours 1pm-5pm Sat.-Sun., July-Aug.) was the launching point for Benedict Arnold’s 1775 assault on Québec City. When Arnold and his expedition numbering more than 1,000 soldiers arrived here, they found 200 bateaux, built by Colburn upon orders of Gen. George Washington, to take them through Maine’s wilderness by following the Kennebec and Dead Rivers. It was Colburn who conceived the idea for the attack and sold it to Gen. Washington, and it was Colburn, with local workmen, who built the boats in a two-week time frame, without seasoned lumber and with a nail shortage. Among those who accompanied Arnold on his march were Aaron Burr and Henry Dearborn. Colburn financed much of the expedition, but was never reimbursed by the government, which later led to his financial ruin. The Colburn House also serves as the headquarters for the Arnold Expedition Historical Society (www.arnoldsmarch.com). Like the nearby Pownalborough Court House, the Colburn House is on the east side of the Kennebec.
Many of Hallowell’s distinctive homes have stories to tell. Stop by Hallowell City Hall (1 Winthrop St., 207/623-4021) to pick up a copy of the Museums in the Streets map or visit www.historichallowell.org to download a walking brochure.
Fans of poet Edgar Arlington Robinson will find a map of Gardiner-area (“Tilbury Town”) sites at www.earobinson.com.
The Gaslight Theater, a talented community-theater group, performs periodically throughout the year at the Hallowell City Hall Auditorium (Winthrop St., Hallowell, 207/626-3698, www.gaslighttheater.org).
Six miles south of Augusta, the 1864 Johnson Hall Performing Arts Center (280 Water St., Gardiner, 207/582-7144, www.johnsonhall.org) is the year-round site of just about anything anyone wants to present—plays, lectures, art camps, after-school programs, classes, concerts, and more.
Maine’s enduring Shakespearean theater is the Theater at Monmouth (796 Main St./Rte. 132, Monmouth, box office 207/933-9999 or 800/769-9698 in Maine, www.theateratmonmouth.org, $28), based in Monmouth’s architecturally astonishing Cumston Hall. Completed in 1900, the Romanesque Victorian structure has columns, cutout shingles, stained glass, and a huge square tower. The interior is equally stunning, with frescoes and a vaulted ceiling. The theater’s summer season, performed by professionals in rotating repertory, runs early July-August. Shakespeare usually gets the nod for one or two of the four plays. Tickets for the family show are $15 adults, $10 children.
During the school year, the University of Maine at Augusta campus schedules lectures, concerts, and other performances. Check with the school (student activities 207/621-3000, ext. 3442, or information center 877/862-1234, www.uma.edu) for current information.
Benedict Arnold’s march to Quebec began at the Major Reuben Colburn House.
The Augusta area seems to claim more country fairs than any other part of the state; don’t miss an opportunity to attend at least one. Each has a different flavor, but there are always lots of animals, games, and junk food, often a carnival, and sometimes harness racing.
In June, the Maine Alpaca Association sponsors the Maine Fiber Frolic (www.fiberfrolic.com), a celebration of fiber, fiber animals, and fiber arts at the Windsor Fairgrounds. Expect llamas, alpacas, angora rabbits, sheep, goats, and other livestock as well as demonstrations, workshops, and exhibits.
In mid-June, the annual Blistered Fingers Family Bluegrass Music Festival (www.blisteredfingers.com) takes place at the Litchfield Fairgrounds in Litchfield.
The small four-day Pittston Fair (www.pittstonfair.com) features agricultural exhibits, a carnival, and even a woodsman contest at the Pittston Fairgrounds, East Pittston, in mid-July. The third Saturday in July, Old Hallowell Day (www.oldhallowellday.org) includes a craft fair, a parade, food booths, and a road race in downtown Hallowell. The Monmouth Fair fills four days with agricultural exhibits, a carnival, and crafts in early August.
The last week of August, the Windsor Fairgrounds come alive with the weeklong Windsor Fair, with agricultural exhibits, harness racing, a demolition derby, a beauty pageant, and a carnival.
The three-day Litchfield Fair has farm exhibits, animal pulling, a carnival, and more the second weekend in September.
Two towns south of Augusta draw shoppers. Both Hallowell and Gardiner have boutiques, restaurants, specialty shops, and antiques stores.
Kennebec River Artisans (130 Water St., Hallowell, 207/623-2345) shows and sells the wares of more than three dozen craftspeople. The Harlow Gallery (160 Water St., Hallowell, 207/622-3813), headquarters for the Kennebec Valley Art Association, serves as a magnet not only for its member artists but also for friends of art. One of Maine’s best sources for vintage lighting is Brass and Friends Antiques (154 Water St., Hallowell, 207/626-3287).
The apt slogan at Merrill’s Bookshop (134 Water St., 2nd Fl., Hallowell, 207/623-2055) is “Good literature from Edward Abbey to Leane Zugsmith.” John Merrill has an eye for unusual rare and used books, so you may walk out with a personal treasure.
“Guns. Wedding Gowns. Cold Beer.” The sign outside Hussey’s General Store (510 Ridge Rd./Rte. 32 at Rte. 105, Windsor, 207/445-2511, www.husseysgeneralstore.com) says it all. With merchandise spread out on three floors, there isn’t much that Hussey’s doesn’t have, and that bridal department does a steady business. Its slogan: “If we don’t have it, you don’t need it.” From Augusta, take Route 105 about 11 miles east to Route 32; Hussey’s is on the corner. If you’re at the Windsor Fairgrounds, the store is only about two miles farther north on Route 32.
On the east side of State Street, between the State House and the river, is 10-acre Capitol Park, a great place for a picnic after visiting the Maine State Museum, the State House, and the Blaine House. In the park is the Maine Vietnam Veterans Memorial, a dramatic “you are there” walk-through monument erected in 1985.
On the east side of the Kennebec River, the Viles Arboretum (153 Hospital St./Rte. 9, Augusta, 207/621-0031, www.vilesarboretum.org, dawn-dusk daily) devotes 224 acres to more than 300 varieties of trees and shrubs. Bring a picnic (carry-in, carry-out) and wander the nearly six-mile trail network. If you’re a birder, bring binoculars; more than 150 species have been spotted here. Well-designed planting clusters include hosta and rhododendron collections, a rock garden, an antique apple orchard, and the Governors Grove, with a white pine dedicated to each Maine governor. Stop first at the Viles Visitor Center (8am-4pm Mon.-Fri.) to pick up a trail map. Leashed pets are allowed; smoking is not allowed on the grounds. During the winter, the trails are groomed for cross-country skiing. Admission is free; donations are appreciated.
Next to the arboretum parking lot is Cony Cemetery (also known as Knight Cemetery), one of Augusta’s oldest, with gravestones dating from the late 18th century. Old-cemetery buffs will want to check it out, but rubbings are not permitted.
Escape the shopping hubbub in this pocket of tranquility at the Augusta Civic Center. Designed in 1974 by Lyle Littlefield, a professor of horticulture at the University of Maine, it’s now maintained by club members. Within the two-acre park’s borders are a water-lily pond rimmed with cattails, two formal gardens, and trails edged by perennials. Nearby are children’s butterfly and hummingbird gardens and woodlands with wildflowers.
Maine’s Department of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife manages this 840-acre preserve with a 107-acre pond. The pond, stocked with brook trout and splake, appeals equally to anglers, birders, wildlife-watchers, and paddlers. Mapped trails weave through the surrounding woodlands. Access is from Outlet Road, just west of the Maple Hill Farm Inn in Hallowell.
Just steps from downtown Hallowell is this Hobbit-like landscape, with a babbling brook, pond, stone bridges, and a dam. Paths weave through the 166 acres, which are a joy to explore. The parking area is on the corner of Middle Street and Litchfield Road.
The Maine Department of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife (IF&W) has established a byzantine reservation system to limit visitors to its Steve Powell Wildlife Management Area (207/547-5322, www.state.me.us/ifw/education/swanisland) on 1,755-acre, four-mile-long Swan Island in the middle of the Kennebec River. Don’t be daunted; it’s worth the effort. The entire island is on the National Register of Historic Places. Well-marked trails are everywhere; one trail takes 30 minutes, another takes three hours and goes the length of the lovely wooded island. No license is needed for fishing, but even private boats need permission to land here (near the campground); small boats are not recommended because of 10-foot tidal variations. Bikes are permitted on the center main road only, and cars and pets are not allowed.
Getting here requires taking a small ferry the very short distance from a dock in Richmond, next to the town-owned Waterfront Park on Route 24. The boat operates May 1-Labor Day. Call for reservations. Day-use admission is $8 over age 3. Pack a picnic lunch; fireplaces at the campground are available for day use if no campers are using them, but bring tinfoil for cooking. Alcohol is not allowed on the island.
The island, settled in the early 1700s, once had as many as 95 resident farmers, fishermen, ice cutters, and shipbuilders. Now there are derelict antique houses, a herd of white-tailed deer, wild turkeys, nesting bald eagles, plenty of waterfowl and other birds, and the primitive campground.
Swan Island’s campground has 10 well-spaced lean-tos, each sleeping six, with picnic tables, fireplaces, and outhouses; firewood and potable water are provided. Cost is $14 over age 3, plus the state’s 7 percent lodging tax. There’s a two-night maximum. The policy is carry-in, carry-out, so bring trash bags. A rickety flatbed truck with benches meets campers at the island dock and transports them the 1.5 miles to the campground. The same truck does the island tour.
You can walk, bike, ski, or run the Kennebec River Rail Trail (KRRT), keeping an eye peeled for bald eagles, salmon, and just the general flow of the Kennebec. The Friends of KRRT (www.krrt.org) maintains the 6.5-mile riverside trail connecting Augusta’s Waterfront Park to Gardiner.
Ten miles north of Augusta and 12 miles south of Waterville, the Natanis Golf Club (Webber Pond Rd., Vassalboro, 207/622-3561, www.natanisgc.com) has been the site of many a Maine golf tournament. Named after a trusted Indian guide, the Natanis club has two separate 18-hole courses.
Take a look at a map of the region and you’ll find plenty of blue indicating lakes, ponds, rivers, and streams. Collins Boat Rentals (290 Rte. 135, Monmouth, 207/933-4782) rents canoes and kayaks for $20/eight-hour day or $100/week; reservations are required. Fishing boat rentals begin at $45/day for an open 14-foot aluminum boat with 6 hp motor.
For swimming, head 12 miles south of Augusta to Peacock Beach (Rte. 201, Richmond, 207/737-4305), a quiet 100-acre park on long, narrow Pleasant Pond.
Fish for stripers and blue fish on the Kennebec River with Gardiner-based Maine Experience Guide Service (207/215-3828, www.maineexperienceguideservice.com) with Master Maine Guide Jay Farris. Rates begin at $250 for four hours and cover up to three people. In autumn, Farris also offers a five-hour foliage tour down the Kennebec, including a shore lunch, for $175, covering up to two people.
Meriting a recreational category of its own—or maybe it should qualify as entertainment—the clothing-optional Richmond Corner Sauna (81 Dingley Rd., Richmond, 207/737-4752 or 800/400-5751, www.richmondsauna.com, $25 pp) is one of those funky places you either like or you don’t. But it has been here since 1976, and maybe you’ll like it. Finnish-American owner Richard Jarvi has built a loyal clientele for his authentic wood-heated sauna house with six private rooms and a group one. In between and afterward, there’s a pool and a hot tub. If nudity bothers you, don’t come. If you’re too relaxed to drive after the sauna, the casual, clothing-optional main house, built in 1831, has five B&B guest rooms ($85 d) with shared baths; room rates include sauna, pool, and hot tub access as well as a continental breakfast. The sauna is open 5pm-9pm Tuesday-Sunday in winter, 6pm-10pm Tuesday-Sunday in summer. From downtown Richmond, take Route 197 west about five miles and turn left (south) onto Route 138. Take an immediate left onto Dingley Road, where you’ll see the sign.
On the western side of the city, close to I-95 but convenient to downtown and the Capitol complex, is the Senator Inn and Spa (284 Western Ave., Augusta, 207/622-5804 or 877/772-2224, www.senatorinn.com, $110-280), with a decent restaurant, a full-service spa, and indoor and outdoor heated pools. Some rooms have fireplaces or whirlpool tubs. Pets are allowed in certain rooms for $12/night. Rates include a deluxe continental breakfast.
On a back road only 10 minutes from the State House, 130-acre M Maple Hill Farm Bed and Breakfast Inn and Conference Center (11 Inn Rd., off Outlet Rd., Hallowell, 207/622-2708 or 800/622-2708, www.maplebb.com, $115-209) provides a green, rural respite. Eight guest rooms (all with Wi-Fi, phones, cable TV, video players, air-conditioning, and individual heat control) in the informal renovated 1890s farmhouse overlook woods, fields, gardens, and even the Camden Hills. Some guest rooms have double whirlpool tubs, gas fireplaces, and private decks. Public areas include a living room, a hot tub, and a sauna. Breakfast is a custom-cooked affair from a menu and features the inn’s own fresh eggs as an option. Coffee, tea, and baked goodies are available anytime in the inn’s common guest kitchen. No pets are permitted because of the delightful farm animals, including llamas, cows, and goats. The eco-aware inn is a leader in the green movement. It has a wind-generating turbine, extensive solar panels, and other green initiatives. Maple Hill Farm is three miles west of downtown Hallowell, next to an 800-acre wildlife preserve with an extensive trail network and a wonderful pond.
About 10 miles southwest of Augusta but a world removed is A Rise and Shine B&B (19 Moose Run Dr./Rte. 135, Monmouth, 207/933-9876, www.riseandshinebb.com, $100-150), the former Woolworth family estate overlooking Lake Cobbosseeconte in Monmouth. Restoring the main house after it had been empty for five years has been ongoing for partners Lorette Comeau and Tom Crocker, but they’re turning it into a real prize, with Lorette’s hand-painted murals in a few of the eight guest rooms. The overall atmosphere is very inviting, with plenty of shared public rooms—a great room, a living room, a dining room, a huge patio, and a TV room—to spread out and relax. They welcome families and have even created a children’s garden as well as a giant checkerboard court (OK, adults love it too). Rates include a full breakfast; Wi-Fi and computer access are provided. Two first-floor rooms connect through a bath for a family suite. In the evenings, Tom, a professional singer, often entertains guests—a real treat. Also on the premises is a small rental cottage with two bedrooms and a full kitchen ($300). Here’s a twist on pets: The property previously was a racehorse farm, so horses can be accommodated by arrangement.
It’s a short walk to downtown shops and restaurants from the colonial-style Second Street Bed & Breakfast (68 Second St., Hallowell, 207/622-2213, www.secondstbandb.com, $150-175). Each of the five guest rooms has individually controlled heat. There’s Wi-Fi, and a full breakfast is included.
Almost everything on the menu is made in-house at the Downtown Diner (204 Water St., Augusta, 207/623-9695, 5am-2pm Mon.-Fri., 6am-2pm Sat., 7am-1pm Sun.), a reliable spot for inexpensive good home cookin’ in the spot once occupied by Hersey’s Shoe Store, which the marquee still advertises.
Expanding from its original Belfast store to a location near the State House, Bay Wrap (1 Hichborn St., Augusta, 207/620-9727, www.thebaywrap.com, 11am-7pm Mon.-Fri., 11am-4pm Sat.) fills tortillas with all kinds of concoctions. The Samurai Salmon is divine.
Great sandwiches, soups, salads, breads, delish cookies, and other treats come from Slates Deli (165 Water St., Hallowell, 207/622-4104, 7:30am-3pm Mon.-Fri., 7:30am-2pm Sat.).
Peruse used books while waiting for your order at Lisa’s Legit Burritos (242 Water St., Gardiner, 207/203-2013, 11am-7pm Mon.-Thurs., 11am-8pm Fri.-Sat.). It’s an order-at-the-counter place, decorated with artsy touches.
If you’re wandering around the back roads and make it as far as Readfield Center, duck into the Readfield Emporium (1146 Main St., Readfield, 207/685-7348, 5pm-10pm Wed.-Sun.) for a casual dinner. Pizza is the big draw, but with options such as pizza spanakopita or pizza piccata, it’s no ordinary pie shop. Other choices include Thai-grilled chicken breast and homemade grilled wine sausage; most run $8-18. The space doubles as an art gallery and wine bar, and there’s often live entertainment. And here’s a cool piece of trivia: Noted contemporary designer Alexis Bittar’s parents own the place.
For homemade soups, sandwiches, and baked goods, tuck into The Flaky Tart (130 Main St., Winthrop, 207/377-8278, 8:30am-4pm Tues.-Fri., 9am-2pm Sat.). Fixed-price dinners (around $35) are offered once a month.
Put your lights on for service at Fast Eddies (1308 Rte. 202, Winthrop, 207/377-5550, www.fasteddiesdrivein.com, 11am-9pm daily mid-Apr.-mid-Sept.), but even if you opt for carhop service, make it a point to visit the dining room, where James Dean, Elvis, Marilyn Monroe, and Betty Boop preside over a cool collection of 1950s memorabilia. Burgers, shakes, fried foods, and homemade ice cream are the draws. Wednesday night draws antique car buffs.
Pastries, hearty breakfasts, and fat sandwiches are the lures to Annabella’s Bakery & Café (2 Front St./Rte. 24, Richmond, 207/737-7165, www.annabellas.me, 6:30am-2:30pm Tues.-Sat., 6:30am-1pm Sun.). Take it to go and enjoy your meal in the riverside park across the street.
The yummy aromas of Old World-style baking are reason enough to venture off the beaten path to find Black Crow Bakery (232 Plains Rd., Litchfield, 207/268-9927, www.blackcrowbread.com, 7am-7pm Tues.-Sat.), where the specialty, a Tuscan loaf, is as pretty as it is tasty. Almost all the breads baked in the brick oven are sourdough-based, and every day features a different loaf, perhaps Sicilian, olive herb, focaccia, the fantastic apricot almond, or Greek cheese. A modern mixer is Mark and Tinker Mickalide’s only high-tech tool; they operate a very traditional bakery in their 1810 farmhouse’s former summer kitchen, even grinding their own grains on Maine granite. The shop, which operates on the honor system, is across from the Legion Hall, between I-495 and the Litchfield Fairgrounds.
This region is blessed with excellent homemade ice cream. Worth the trip are: Webber’s (Rte. 201, Farmingdale); Hamilton’s (Water St./Rte. 201, downtown Hallowell); Tubby’s (Main St., Wayne, 207/685-8181, and 41 Main St., Winthrop, 207/377-3340), which makes outrageous flavors from scratch; and Old Colony Ice Cream (28 Bowdoin St., Winthrop, 207/377-7788), just a couple of blocks from a lakeside park.
The Augusta Farmers Market operates 10am-1pm Wednesday and Saturday at the Turnpike Mall on Western Avenue. There’s also Farmers Market at Mill Park at the old Edwards Mill site on the north end of Water Street, operating 2pm-6pm Tuesday. West of Augusta, the Winthrop Farmers Market is set up in the municipal building parking lot (Main St. in Winthrop) 9am-1pm Tuesday and Saturday.
When you have a hankering for finger-lickin’ Memphis-style barbecue, Riverfront Barbeque and Grill (300 Water St., Augusta, 207/622-8899, www.riverfrontbbq.com, 11am-9pm Mon.-Wed., 11am-10pm Thurs.-Sat., noon-9pm Sun., $9-24) delivers, serving big portions of slow-smoked goodness—and a few surprises, such as veggie risotto—at affordable prices. Everything’s prepared from scratch using local ingredients, whenever possible. There’s a kids’ menu too.
Don’t let the location inside a hotel deter you from Cloud 9 (Senator Inn and Spa, 284 Western Ave., Augusta, 207/622-5804, 6:30am-9pm daily, $12-30). The chefs are committed to using local ingredients and take great care in preparing the fare. Choices vary from wood-oven pizzas to handmade pastas, burgers and fries to filet mignon. The brunch buffet, served 11am-2pm Sunday, brings them in from points far and wide.
Chowders, lobster stew, and fried seafood are the specialties at Hattie’s Chowder House (103 Water St., Hallowell, 207/621-4114, 11am-9pm Mon.-Sat., 11am-8pm Sun., $7-24), but the menu has a bit of everything.
Downriver from Augusta, the Railway Café (64 Main St., Richmond, 207/737-2277, 6:30am-8pm Mon.-Thurs., 6:30am-9pm Fri.-Sat., 7am-4pm Sun., dinner entrées $6-20) has been the favorite local gathering spot since 1984. Looking at the original 19th-century woodwork and tin ceiling, who’d guess it had once been a funeral parlor? Dinner entrées include steak, seafood, grilled chicken, and pizza. The café is open year-round for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
Ask anyone where to eat in the Augusta area and chances are high that the answer will be M Slates (167 Water St., Hallowell, 207/622-9575, 11am-9pm Tues.-Fri., 10am-9:30pm Sat., 10am-2pm Sun., 4:30pm-9pm Mon.), the Energizer Bunny of local restaurants. Founded in 1979, it just keeps improving. Destroyed by fire in early 2007, it rose from the ashes revitalized. Dinner options range from pizza and crepes to osso bucco and blackened haddock; most are in the $10-28 range. The weekend brunches are fabulous: grilled fish and meats, unique omelets and Benedicts, huevos rancheros, stuffed croissants, homemade granola, and salads. Vegetarian fare is available.
It’s the 20-ounce pint glass, not politics, that helped christen The Liberal Cup (115 Water St., Hallowell, 207/623-2739, 11:30am-9pm daily, $7-14), a brewpub and restaurant where owner Geoffrey Houghton, who studied in Britain, brews great ales. Homemade is true of the food too; the place is packed with diners sampling the salads, salmon, steak, fish-and-chips, and shepherd’s pie. Even the salad dressings are made on the premises.
The first-rate M A-1 Diner (3 Bridge St., Gardiner, 207/582-4804, 7am-8pm Mon.-Sat., 8am-1pm Sun., $8-16) is the real thing, a genuine classic diner with moderate prices and some added attractions, such as air-conditioning. The menu, however, goes well beyond diner fare. How about tilapia with pesto, Transylvania eggplant casserole, or Turkish lamb tagine? The soups are great too. There’s also a regular diner menu, and Sunday brunch draws a big crowd.
Café de Bangkok (272 Water St., Hallowell, 207/622-2638, www.cafedebangkokme.com, 11am-9:30pm Mon.-Thurs., 11am-10pm Fri.-Sat., 4pm-9:30pm Sun., $11-23) deserves its rep as one of Maine’s best Thai restaurants. Not only is the food excellent—with great sushi—but also the setting on the Kennebec River is lovely.
If you’re feeding bottomless-stomach teens, Lucky Garden (222 Water St., Hallowell, 207/622-3465, 11am-9pm daily, $8-26) is a great choice. The restaurant, with a nice dining room overlooking the river, is locally known for its sesame chicken. The all-you-can-eat buffets ($7.95 lunch 11am-2:30pm daily, $11.95 dinner 5pm-8:30pm Fri.-Sat.) are ideal for those with big appetites.
Local information is available from the Kennebec Valley Chamber of Commerce (207/623-4559, www.augustamaine.com), the Hallowell Board of Trade (207/620-7477, www.hallowell.org), and the Kennebec Valley Tourism Council (207/623-4884, www.kennebecvalley.org).
The Romanesque Revival Lithgow Public Library (Winthrop St. and State St., Augusta, 207/626-2415, www.lithgow.lib.me.us), one of Maine’s handsomest libraries, was built in 1896 of Maine granite. Do not miss the gorgeous reading room, with a Tiffany clock, stained-glass windows, and French-inspired decor.
The Maine State Library (Maine State Cultural Building, Augusta, 207/287-5600, www.maine.gov/msl), in the State House complex, includes the Maine State Museum and the State Archives (207/287-5790) within its walls.
Cape Air Airlines (866/227-3247, www.capeair.com) operates flights year-round between Boston’s Logan Airport and the Augusta State Airport (AUG, 75 Airport Rd., Augusta, 207/626-2306).
Concord Coachlines (Augusta Transportation Center, 9 Industrial Dr., Augusta, 800/639-3317, www.concordcoachlines.com) operates bus service among Portland, Augusta, and Bangor, connecting with the Maine Coast, Boston, and points south.
By car, Augusta is roughly 60 miles or 55 minutes from Portland via I-295 and I-95. It’s roughly 34 miles or 1 hour from Belfast via Route 3, and roughly 75 miles or just over an hour from Bangor via I-95. It’s roughly 17 miles or 30 minutes to Belgrade Lakes via Route 27.
The Belgrade Lakes area is one of those Proustian memories-of-childhood places where multigenerational family groups return year after year for idyllic summer visits full of nothing but playing, going for hikes or swims, fishing, listening for the loons, watching sunsets, and dreading the return to civilization. It was the inspiration for On Golden Pond—playwright Ernest Thompson spent his childhood summers here. Today’s parents, recalling carefree days at one of the many Belgrade-area summer camps, now send their own kids to camp here, or they rent lakefront cottages and devote their energies to re-creating those youthful days.
Water, water everywhere: Mosey along the back roads and it seems as if there’s yet another body of water around every other bend. Belgrade’s chain of lakes is seven major lakes and ponds: Long Pond, North Pond, Great Pond, East Pond, Salmon Pond, McGrath Pond, and Messalonskee Lake (also known as Snow Pond), as well as numerous smaller ones; as you continue south, so do the lakes and ponds. Camps and cottages are sprinkled around their shores—you might even spot Elizabeth Arden’s once-famed Maine Chance Farm. Roadside put-ins and boat-launch ramps, from which you can put in a canoe, kayak, or powerboat, can be found on every lake. This is a great area just to strap a canoe or kayak on the car and wander, stopping wherever seems interesting for a paddle. Incidentally, the village of Belgrade Lakes, heart of the region, has its own post office but is part of the towns of Belgrade (pop. 3,189) and Rome (pop. 1,010).
Since the Belgrade Lakes area is tucked in between Waterville and Augusta, those cities serve as the easily accessible commercial and cultural hubs for Belgrade visitors.
Directly west of Belgrade Lakes village is the charming, out-of-the-way hamlet of Mount Vernon (pop. 1,640), founded in 1792 and worth a visit by car or bike. North of that is Vienna (VI-enna, pop. 570); south is lovely Kents Hill, home to a prep school and part of the town of Readfield (pop. 2,598).
Lions and tigers and bears, oh, my! And monkeys, camels, wallabies, ostriches, a binturong, a hyena, and, well, the list goes on. Allow at least an hour to visit the 42-acre D. E. W. (domestic, exotic, wild) Animal Kingdom (9918 Pond Rd./Rte. 41, Mount Vernon, 207/293-2837, www.dewanimalkingdom.com, 10am-5pm Tues.-Sun. Apr.-mid-Sept., $15 ages 13-64, $10 ages 4-12 and 65-99), west of Belgrade Lakes village. Kids love the hands-on stuff at Julie and Bob Miner’s innovative nonprofit zoo, where they raise and rehabilitate exotic and other animals, enhancing rare and endangered breeds, and educate visitors about them. Bob, a disabled Vietnam vet, has rescued animals from zoos and shows and even New York City apartments. Julie and Bob have hand-raised and bottle-fed many of these animals from infancy, and they enter every cage. Bob kisses the bears and the lions, and Julie nuzzles the panther, but visitors watch from behind a double fence; trust me, it’s plenty close enough, especially when you learn such facts as that the hyena has the strongest jaw pressure of any land mammal. Tours are offered at 11am and 2pm. The zoo is midway between Mount Vernon village and Kents Hill. Note: Whining children are strongly discouraged.
The Belgrade Lakes region was the inspiration for the film On Golden Pond.
Take off from the water and cruise by air over the lakes with Airlink (Great Pond Marina, 207/859-0109, www.airlinkconnection.com), with flights starting at $75 pp for 20 minutes.
The big entertainment here is shared family time on the lakes, but there are a few nearby venues worth exploring.
Late June-mid-August, free concerts by students and faculty are offered at the New England Music Camp (Lake Messalonskee, Sidney, 207/465-3025, www.nemusiccamp.com). Call or check the website for current schedule. Weekend concerts are at the outdoor “Bowl-in-the-Pines” (bring a blanket or folding chair); midweek performances take place in Alumni Hall.
Mosey and poke around the back roads and you’ll be rewarded with a handful of galleries and whatnot shops.
Cars and canoes are about the only things you can’t buy at Day’s Store (Main St./Rte. 27, Belgrade Lakes, 207/495-2205 or 800/993-9500, www.go2days.com), a legendary institution since 1960. From firewater to fishing tackle, sandwiches (including the Long Pond Grinder) to souvenirs, and more than a dozen kinds of homemade fudge, it’s a general store par excellence. Don’t expect fancy; the local flavor provides its character. Long Pond is at its back door, providing access by boat or car. Day’s is in the center of the village; you can’t miss it.
A few doors south of the Village Inn in Belgrade Lakes is the seasonal branch of Waterville’s Maine Made and More Shop (Main St./Rte. 27, Belgrade Lakes, 207/495-2274), a summer landmark since 1980. Here’s the place to stock up on tasteful gifts and crafts: jams and maple syrup, cards and guidebooks, T-shirts and sweatshirts, stuffed moose, and even shoes.
Delivering what its name promises, Maine Bone Carving (Rte. 41, Mount Vernon, 877/562-6637, www.mainebonecarving.com) sells hand-carved moose bone and also sells the works of Maine and New Zealand artisans. Open by chance or by appointment.
The talented duo of potter Mark Hutton and weaver Hillary Hutton sell their gorgeous handcrafted works from their home-based Hutton Studios (277 Tower Rd., Vienna, 207/293-3686, www.huttonstudios.com), open by chance or by appointment.
Just north of Day’s Store in Belgrade Lakes village is a cute little picnic area on Long Pond, Belgrade Peninsula Park (5:30am-10:30pm), next to an old dam. Late in the day it’s a great spot for sunset-watching and fishing; no camping or fires are permitted. The Belgrade Lakes Conservation Corps restored it in 1996, and there is space for five carefully parked cars.
Another scenic standout, with a super photo op of Long Pond and Belgrade Lakes village, is the state-maintained overlook at Blueberry Hill on the west side of Long Pond. From Route 27, just south of Belgrade Lakes village, take Castle Island Road west about three miles to Watson Pond Road. Turn right (north) and continue about 1.5 miles. (Another 2.8 miles north of Blueberry Hill is the trailhead for French’s Mountain.)
Golf has taken center stage here ever since the opening of the splendid Belgrade Lakes Golf Club (West Rd., Belgrade Lakes, 207/495-4653, www.belgradelakesgolf.com) in 1998. Designed by noted British expert Clive Clark, the course is an 18-hole standout, and the view from the elegant clubhouse is dazzling.
Proactive in protecting much of the region’s beautiful land for hiking and responsible enjoyment, the Belgrade Regional Conservation Alliance (BRCA, 207/495-6039, www.belgradelakes.org) has a terrific trail map and hiking guide to the Kennebec Highlands—although it doesn’t show every protected acre, since the alliance is managing to protect land faster than it can print maps.
The two good hikes listed here are included on the map, which can also be obtained at local general stores such as Day’s. Both hikes are just north of Belgrade Lakes village in the town of Rome. Neither is particularly high, but their summits are isolated enough to provide panoramic vistas.
For lots of gain, little pain, and a good family hike, head for French Mountain, on the west side of Long Pond. To reach the trailhead from Route 27, go about 4.2 miles north of Belgrade Lakes village and turn left onto Watson Pond Road, continue for less than a mile; the trail (signposted) begins on the left. Allow about 20 minutes to reach the summit, with fantastic views of Long Pond, the village, and Great Pond. Take a picnic (and a litter bag) and stretch out on the ledges. It’s less than a mile round-trip.
A marginally tougher yet still-easy hike is Mount Phillips, a 755-footer with summit views of Great Pond. Allow about 20 minutes to reach the top via the 1.4-mile blue-blazed loop trail from the Route 225 trailhead. Take Route 225 from Rome Corner (Logan’s Country Antiques is at the fork). Continue 1.5 miles to the trailhead (on the left), across from a Hemlock Trail sign. Park as far off the road as possible.
Good places for swimming are Long Pond Public Beach on Lakeshore Drive in Belgrade Lakes village (near Sunset Grille) and at the Belgrade Community Center, on Route 27 just south of the village. In addition to the lakefront, the center also has a pool open to nonresidents for $2 during community swim hours.
Fishing is a big deal here, particularly in May-June and September (the season runs Apr. 1-Oct. 1). Among the 20 species in the seven major lakes and ponds are landlocked salmon, brown trout, black bass, pickerel, white perch, and eastern brook trout. You’ll have to stick to bag, weight, and length limits. Pick up tackle and nonresident fishing licenses at Day’s Store (Main St., Belgrade Lakes, 207/495-2205 or 800/993-9500).
Cast a line for northern pike with Maine Wilderness Tours (207/465-4333, www.mainewildernesstours.com). Trips include rod, reel, tackle, and bait, with rates beginning at $175 for four hours for up to two anglers.
Great Pond Marina (25 Marina Dr., Belgrade Lakes, 207/495-2213, www.greatpondmarina.com) rents fishing boats ($67/day), runabouts (from $164/day), pontoon boats (from $246/day), kayaks ($30/day s, $50 d), and paddleboards ($50/day). A security deposit is required.
Here’s a throwback: When the windows are open, it feels as if you could dive out into the water at Sunbeam Roller Rink (Rte. 8, Smithfield, 207/362-4951), an old-fashioned roller-skating rink edging North Pond. It’s open 7pm-10pm Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday evenings in summer.
Belgrade’s spiffy recreation center (Rte. 27, Belgrade, 207/495-3481, www.belgrademaine.com) fronts on Great Pond and has a beach as well as an outdoor pool. Inside are the town library and a full-size basketball court. Everything’s open to visitors, although if you want to borrow a book or two, you’ll have to join the library as a nonresident for $10 (well worth it if the weather isn’t cooperating and you’re in a camp or cottage for the week). The center offers a full range of programs, from pickup basketball and volleyball to a summer kids’ camp to a knitting and crafts club.
Practically hidden on a hillside just steps from downtown Belgrade Lakes is the M Wings Hill Inn and Restaurant (Rte. 27, Belgrade Lakes, 866/495-2400, www.wingshillinn.com, $155-195). Built around the turn of the 18th century, the rambling farmhouse-turned-inn houses six guest rooms and the area’s best fine-dining restaurant, thanks to hands-on chef-owners Christopher and Tracey Anderson. The downstairs Sage Suite sleeps three and has a private entrance, a TV with a DVD player, and a small fridge. All of the second-floor rooms have balconies, some shared. The best guest room is Moonlight, a spacious room with a large private deck and lake views. Relax on the screened wraparound porch or snag an Adirondack-style chair on the lawn or a patio seat or, in winter, a place inside by the fire. A TV and a guest phone are in the living room; Wi-Fi is available throughout. Rates include a full breakfast and fresh-baked treats with afternoon tea.
On the eastern side of Great Pond is the aptly named Among the Lakes Bed and Breakfast (58 Smithfield Rd., Belgrade, 207/465-5900, www.amongthelakes.com, $125-145). Although it doesn’t have a lake view, Great Pond is about a one-mile stroll down a private lane. Each of the five guest rooms has air-conditioning; some share baths. Rates include a full breakfast.
Just west of Waterville on the eastern edge of the Belgrade Lakes region is The Pressey House Lakeside Bed and Breakfast (32 Belgrade Rd., Oakland, 207/465-3500, www.presseyhouse.com, $140-235), a mid-19th-century octagonal house with an ell and a barn at the head of nine-mile-long Messalonskee Lake (also known as Snow Pond). There are five good-size suites, most with kitchens; one has a balcony overlooking the lake, another has a fireplace; all have Wi-Fi. Rates include a full breakfast. The inn is family-friendly, and suites sleep as many as five. Relax in the Gallery great room, which has a huge brick fireplace dividing it in two, or on the patio. You can borrow the canoe, kayaks, or a paddleboat to explore the lake. The Pressey House, a five-minute drive from I-95 Exit 127, is open year-round.
You can almost dive into Lake Minnehonk from the back porch of the Lakeside Loft (386 Pond Rd./Rte. 41, Mount Vernon, 207/293-4855, www.thelakesideloft.com, $101-196). Three self-catering units with cooking facilities face the lake, and guests have access to the living room as well as a kayak, canoes, backpacks, and in winter, snowshoes. There’s also Wi-Fi and a video library.
Distant from most of Maine’s sporting camps, these classic Belgrade-area operations nonetheless retain the flavor of those much farther north. And it’s a heck of a lot easier to reach when driving from the south.
Established in 1910 and still operated by the same family, Bear Spring Camps (60 Jamaica Point Rd., Rome, www.bearspringcamps.com, mid-May-early Oct.) is one of the state’s largest sporting camps, with 32 rustic cottages on 400 wooded acres. All have baths and Franklin stoves and overlook the North Bay of nine-mile-long Great Pond. Each cottage has its own dock; rental motorboats, kayaks, canoes, and even a pontoon boat are available. Other facilities include a sandy beach, a tennis court, and hiking trails. Cottages have 1-4 bedrooms with rates from $1,045 d per week, including all meals, served in the main lodge. In traditional style, lunch (called “dinner”) is the main meal of the day, while supper is lighter fare. The staff will cook the fish you catch. Cabins are available only by the week mid-June-Labor Day, and reservations are tough to come by; off-season, when they’re available, daily rates are available. Some guests stay for a month, and they book a year ahead. Pets are not allowed. Bear Spring Camps is 0.25 mile off Route 225, four miles east of Route 27.
Founded in 1909, Alden Camps (3 Alden Camps Cove, Oakland, 207/465-7703, www.aldencamps.com, mid-May-late Sept.) has an incredibly loyal following that includes fourth-generation guests, which makes getting reservations tough but not impossible. The 18 rustic cottages face great sunrises across three-mile-long East Pond (a.k.a. East Lake). Most guests spend a week. Each no-frills cottage has a screened porch, electricity, a bath, a fridge, and daily maid service. The crew of college kids aims to please, and former staffers now show up as guests. Meals are hearty and surprisingly creative with about a dozen or so entrée choices nightly (limited reservations for nonguests, entrées $20, including a salad course). The Friday night lobster bake or clam bake—open to nonguests, call for reservations—is a longstanding tradition. BYOB. The 40-acre spread on Route 137 has a clay tennis court, a sandy beach, a waterskiing boat, boat rentals, and a kids’ play area. Rates, which include all meals, vary with cottage size and occupancy, beginning around $130 pp per night or $780 pp per week for a one-room cottage. Children under age 13 are $21-81/day or $126-486/week, depending on age. Spring and late summer rates are lower. After the Labor Day-late September season, cottages are available without meals for $93-183/day or $558-1,098/week. Rates do not include gratuities. Low-season midweek specials are a real steal. Pets are grudgingly allowed for $30/day. Boat rentals are $20/day or $120/week; canoes and kayaks are free. Alden Camps is seven miles off I-95 Exit 127.
Occupying all of tiny Castle Island, a blip on the causeway-bridge dividing Long Lake, is Castle Island Camps (Castle Island Rd., Belgrade Lakes, 207/495-3312 or winter 207/293-2266, www.castleislandcamps.com, May 1-Sept. 30, no credit cards). What a location! The 12 rustic cabins are geared to anglers, but they’re popular with families in summer who want a simple old-fashioned lake-based holiday. Each cabin fronts on the lake, and home-style meals, served in the lodge, are included in the rates ($92 s, $164 d per night; $615 s; kids’ rates begin at $40 under age 3 and increase with age). Rental boats ($60/day with gas) and kayaks ($30/day, $20 half day) are available. Other amenities are Wi-Fi, a swimming dock, and a games room.
Seasonal rentals are the preferred lodging in the Belgrade Lakes area. For possibilities, call Belgrade Reservation Center (207/495-2104, www.belgraderental.com).
If you’re looking for picnic fare or a quick bite, stop in at Day’s Store (Main St./Rte. 27, Belgrade Lakes, 207/495-2205 or 800/993-9500, www.go2days.com) and pick up pizza, sandwiches, and baked goodies.
Detour down by the old millstream to The Olde Post Office Café (366 Pond Rd., Village Center, Mount Vernon, 207/293-4978, www.oldepostofficecafe.com, 7am-2:30pm Wed.-Sun.). Sandwiches, salads, panini, and wraps fill the menu along with baked goodies. Grab a seat inside or on the screened porch overlooking the stream or lake. Don’t miss the old wheel-driven mill across the street. The café also is open occasionally for Saturday night dinners with music.
Reliability is the biggest selling point for the Sunset Grille (4 West Rd., Belgrade Lakes, 207/495-2439, 7am-10pm Sun.-Thurs., 7am-midnight Fri.-Sat.). The local grub and gossip spot is open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and it has a full bar. Stick to the basics and the chili, and don’t be in a rush.
Pete’s Pig (81 Main St./Rte. 27, Belgrade Lakes, 207/495-4095, www.petespig.com, 11am-7pm daily) is just the ticket if you’ve got a hankering for slow-roasted and smoked Southern barbeque.
Who’d a thunk a sporting camp would serve fare such as rack of lamb or wild mushroom ravioli? You’ll have to call in advance to book one of the few seats on the porch available to nonguests at Alden Camps (3 Alden Camps Cove, Oakland, 207/465-7703, www.aldencamps.com, dinner daily late May-early Sept.). Even though you’ll hear the passing whiz of traffic, the experience is worth it. Entrées are in the $20s, and that includes a loaf of fresh-baked bread and a salad with homemade dressing choice. BYOB. On Friday nights, it’s an outdoor lobster and seafood bake—a very popular choice.
Fortunately for diners at the inn, innkeepers Tracey and Christopher Anderson of the M Wings Hill Inn and Restaurant (Rte. 27, Belgrade Lakes, 866/495-2400, www.wingshillinn.com) met while attending culinary school. The five-course fixed-price menu (seatings at 6pm and 8pm Thurs.-Sun. Sept.-June, 6pm and 8pm Wed.-Sun. July-Aug., $65), changes weekly and includes appetizer, choices of soup, a salad, and main course such as grilled pork or slow-roasted Cornish hen. In the off-season, a three-course menu may be available for $43. BYOB. Reservations are strongly recommended.
Local information is available from The Belgrade Lakes Region Business Group (www.belgradelakesmaine.com) and Kennebec Valley Tourism Council (207/623-4884, www.kennebecvalley.org).
Summertime in the Lakes, a free tabloid with ads, features, and calendar listings, is an especially helpful local publication that appears weekly during the summer. Copies are available at the information center and at most of the restaurants and shops in the region.
Check out the Belgrade Public Library (Belgrade Community Center, Rte. 27, Belgrade, 207/495-3481, www.belgrademaine.com).
By car, Belgrade Lakes is roughly 17 miles or 30 minutes from Augusta via Route 27. It’s roughly 18 miles or 30 minutes to Waterville via Routes 27 and 11. It’s roughly 20 miles or 30 minutes to Farmington.
Most visitors come to Waterville (pop. 15,722) drawn by Colby College, an elite liberal arts institution whose students and faculty give a college-town flavor to this former mill town, incorporated in 1802. The school’s Museum of Art is reason enough to visit this small city. Other draws include a fabulous film festival and the oldest blockhouse in the nation, in nearby Winslow (pop. 7,794).
As early as 1653, Europeans set up a trading entrepôt here, calling it Teconnet—the earlier version of today’s Ticonic Falls, on the Kennebec River—and commerce with Native Americans thrived until the onset of the Indian Wars two decades later. In the late 19th century a contingent of Lebanese immigrants arrived, finding employment in the town’s mills, and many of their descendants have become prominent community members. Best known of these is favorite son and former U.S. Senate Majority Leader George J. Mitchell, who still returns to spend time with his many relatives here.
Venture east to the rolling farmlands of Unity (pop. 2,099) to find Maine’s organic farming center as well as Unity College and an Amish community.
Crowning Mayflower Hill, two miles from downtown Waterville, is Colby College (Mayflower Hill, Waterville, 207/872-3000, www.colby.edu). Colby’s 1,800 students attend a huge variety of liberal arts programs on a 713-acre campus noted for its handsome Georgian buildings. Founded by Baptists in 1813 as the all-male Maine Literary and Theological Institution, Colby received its current name in 1867 and went coed in 1871. Campus tours are available through the Admissions Office (207/859-4828 or 800/723-3032, 8am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-noon Sat.).
With the 2013 opening of the 26,000-foot Alfond-Lunder Family Pavillion, Colby’s Museum of Art (207/859-5600, 10am-4:30pm Tues.-Sat., noon-4:30pm Sun., free), in the Bixler Art and Music Center, became the state’s largest art museum in terms of gallery space. Over the years, it’s earned an especially distinguished reputation for its remarkable permanent collection of 18th-20th-century American art, which was cemented with the donation of the Lunder Collection, valued at $100 million and comprising more than 500 objects, including works by Winslow Homer, Sol LeWitt, John Singer Sargent, and Georgia O’Keeffe, to name just a few, as well as 300 works by James McNeill Whistler.
The new galleries are just the latest in the museum’s growth. In 1996, it opened its $1.5 million Paul J. Schupf Wing to house 415 paintings and sculptures created by artist Alex Katz during a 50-year period. In July 1999, the architecturally stunning $1.3 million Lunder Wing opened, expanding the museum’s exhibit space to 28,000 square feet. Other significant holdings include works by Gilbert Stuart, Winslow Homer, and John Marin; special solo and group shows are mounted throughout the year. And don’t miss the tasteful gift shop. The museum is on the east side of the campus’s main quadrangle, just north of Mayflower Hill Drive.
Also on the campus is the 128-acre Perkins Arboretum and Bird Sanctuary, with three nature trails. Bring a picnic and blanket and stretch out next to Johnson Pond. In winter there’s ice skating on the pond.
The two-story Fort Halifax (Bay St., Winslow) stands sentinel where the Sebasticook River meets the Kennebec River. The oldest blockhouse in the nation, it was built in 1754 of doweled logs during the French and Indian Wars. In 1987, after rampaging Kennebec floodwaters swept the building away, more than three dozen of the giant timbers were retrieved downstream. Energetic fundraising allowed the blockhouse to be meticulously restored. The surrounding park is a great place for a picnic, with tables dotting shaded grassy lawns rolling to the river’s edge.
Spanning the Kennebec from Benton Avenue in Winslow to Front Street in Waterville (walk down Temple St. in Waterville), the 700-foot-long Two-Cent Bridge (officially the Ticonic Footbridge) was built in 1903 for pedestrian commuters to the Scott Paper mill in Winslow, who paid $0.02 to cross. Closed in 1973, the bridge was recently reopened and is the forerunner of a Head of Falls waterfront redevelopment effort. Possibly the only toll pedestrian bridge left in the United States, its replica tollbooth now simply an object of curiosity. A stroll over the bridge gives good views of Ticonic Falls, the waterfall that likely inspired author Richard Russo’s Pulitzer prize-winning novel Empire Falls.
Home of the Waterville Historical Society, the Redington Museum and Apothecary (62 Silver St., Waterville, 207/872-9439, www.redingtonmuseum.org, 10am-3pm Tues.-Sat. Memorial Day weekend-Labor Day, closed holidays, tours 10am, 11am, 1pm, 2pm, $3 adults, $2 under age 12) has a particularly intriguing replica 19th-century pharmacy filled with authentic pharmaceutical antiquities. The Federal-style Redington House was built in 1814 by early settler Asa Redington for his son, William.
Sometimes you really do have to see it to believe it. That’s the case with the Bryant Stove and Music/Doll Circus (27 Stovepipe Alley, Thorndike, 207/568-3665, www.bryantstove.com, $4), a labor of love collected, created, repaired, and assembled by Joe and Bea Bryant. Begin with the Doll Circus. Flip a switch and the room comes alive with dolls dancing, marching, swinging, turning, and twisting to music. Airplanes fly, a Ferris wheel turns, stuffed animals swing. There’s a Barbie doll fashion show, a hula show, and a line of Barbies and Kens marching to the altar. No matter which way you look, dolls and stuffed animals are actively positioned in creative scenes. It’s a jaw-dropping marriage of lights and music and movement. And that’s just the first room. Beyond it are a small engine room with miniature working steam engines; a music section with player pianos, nickelodeons, jukeboxes, organs, barrel pianos, hurdy-gurdies, and more. The museum is very hands-on, and visitors are encouraged to push buttons, play the instruments, and learn about the mechanisms. If that’s not enough, there are also antique stoves and automobiles that Joe lovingly repaired. A separate part of the business specializes in antique stoves; quite a few celebrities have bought the restored beauties here. To find this gem, about 22 miles east of Waterville, follow Route 201 to Route 139.
The Two-Cent Bridge spans the Kennebec River in Waterville.
Above City Hall is the refurbished turn-of-the-20th-century Waterville Opera House (93 Main St., 207/873-5381, tickets 207/873-7000, www.operahouse.com). Once the haunt of vaudevillians, the renovated Opera House is now the site of plays, dance performances, and concerts throughout the year.
About 20 minutes northeast in rural Unity is Unity Centre for the Performing Arts (42 Depot St., Unity, 207/948-7469, http://uccpa.unity.edu), a 200-seat theater built by Bert and Coral Clifford and donated to Unity College in 2007.
One of Maine’s premier art-film houses, the two-screen Railroad Square Cinema (17 Railroad Sq., Waterville, 207/873-6526, www.railroadsquarecinema.com) is the home of the Maine International Film Festival (MIFF, 207/873-7000, www.miff.org), which has brought such luminaries as Sissy Spacek and Peter Fonda to town to receive Mid-Life Achievement Awards. The 10-day summer festival screens about 100 films representing about 50 filmmakers.
A gathering of New England’s best fiddlers, the East Benton Fiddlers’ Convention (207/453-2017, www.eastbentonfiddlers.com) draws close to 2,000 enthusiasts to open-air performances at the Littlefield farm in East Benton. The convention happens noon-dusk the last Sunday in July.
Downtown Waterville is the site of mid-summer Taste of Greater Waterville. The food-focused one-day festival is usually held on a Wednesday. There’s alfresco dining along with music for kids and adults.
During the third weekend in September, sleepy Unity comes alive with the Common Ground Fair, a celebration of organic foods and country life sponsored by the Maine Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association.
During the academic year, and less often in summer, Colby College (207/859-4353, www.colby.edu/news) is the venue for exhibits, lectures, concerts, performances, and other events.
Unlike so many former mill towns, Waterville’s downtown has life, with shops and restaurants and plenty of free parking in The Concourse, the triangle framed by Elm, Main, and Spring Streets.
Conveniently situated downtown and facing the square, Re-Books (Main St., Waterville, 207/877-2484) is a basement-level shop with a fairly extensive selection of hardcovers and paperbacks. Directly above it, despite the name, and facing Main Street is the Children’s Book Cellar (207/872-4543), a very kid-friendly space with a great selection of books and toys.
If you’re a gardener, farmer, horticulturalist, or just plain curious, take a 15-minute drive east of Waterville to visit the research farm of Johnny’s Selected Seeds (Foss Hill Rd., Albion). Pick up a map and then take a self-guided tour of the 40 acres of trial gardens 9am-4pm Monday-Friday July-August. Or visit the store (207/861-3999) and headquarters (955 Benton Ave., Winslow, 207/861-3900, www.johnnyseeds.com). The eponymous seed source has a national reputation. More than 2,000 varieties of herbs, veggies, and flowers are grown in the trial gardens, which were started in 1973. Known for high-quality seeds and service, the company makes good on anything that doesn’t sprout.
Kennebec Messalonskee Trails (207/873-6443, www.kmtrails.org) has constructed a number of trails in the region, which are mapped and detailed on its website.
Chains dominate the lodging in this region, but The Pressey House, in the Belgrade Lakes area, is convenient to Waterville.
Guests at 84 The Pleasant Street Inn (84 Pleasant St., Waterville, 207/680-2515, www.84pleasantstreet.com, $65-99) have access to a full kitchen, a dining area, and a living room, making it easy to feel at home. Five guest rooms have full baths, one has a half bath, and one has a shared bath; all have Wi-Fi and air-conditioning. It’s clean and cozy, and rates include a self-serve continental breakfast. One caveat: You’ll be on your own and it’s unlikely you’ll meet the innkeeper.
About 20 minutes northeast of Waterville is The Copper Heron (130 Main St., Unity, 207/948-9003, www.copperheron.com, $95), with four guest rooms in an in-town Greek Revival house built in 1842. Common areas include a library with a TV and video player as well as a dining room where full breakfasts (and dinners by arrangement) are served. You can walk to the Unity Centre for the Performing Arts, Unity College, and lovely Unity Pond (there’s a boat put-in, but you’ll want to drive to that). Unity is also home to the Maine Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association and its annual Common Ground Fair in September. Children are welcome.
In a local twist on the traditional Maine public suppers—thanks to Waterville’s substantial Lebanese community—St. Joseph Maronite Church (3 Appleton St., Waterville, 207/872-8515) puts on a Lebanese supper at least once a year (the second Sunday after Easter). If you enjoy Eastern Mediterranean home cooking, be there. Call the church for details.
Jorgensen’s Café (103 Main St., Waterville, 207/872-8711, 7am-6pm Mon.-Sat., 7am-4pm Sun.) is a downtown institution where you might hear French spoken. Bagels, muffins, breakfast sandwiches, and more than 25 varieties of coffee brewed daily attract morning crowds; lunch comprises specialty sandwiches, with every kind of deli meat available, plus quiche, salads, and soups. It’s also the local outlet for Kennebec Chocolates.
Nothing’s finer on a hot summer day than a banana or peanut butter-chocolate chip ice cream from North Street Dairy Cone (127 North St., Waterville, 207/873-0977).
Prepared foods, fresh foods, and daily vegan, vegetarian, and/or gluten-free lunch specials make it easy to assemble a picnic lunch at Barrels Community Market (74 Main St., Waterville, 207/660-4844, www.barrelsmarket.com, 10am-6pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-4pm Sat.).
An extremely popular hangout, Big G’s Deli (Benton Ave., Winslow, 207/873-7808, www.big-g-s-deli.com, 6am-7pm daily, no credit cards) began as a sandwich shop in 1986 and now seats 200. It’s renowned for enormous “name” sandwiches such as the Miles Standwich (nearly a whole turkey dinner), all on thick slices of homemade bread (half sandwiches are available). In fact, all breads and pastries are house-made. You can enjoy breakfast until 1pm. Order at the counter and try for a seat; or get it to go for the mother of all picnics. On the east side of the Kennebec River, Big G’s is about a mile north of the Route 201 bridge to Waterville.
The Grand Central Café (10 Railroad Sq., 207/872-9135, 5pm-8pm Mon.-Wed., 11am-8pm Thurs., 11am-9pm Fri.-Sat., 11am-2pm Sun.) is a local favorite for fancy brick-oven pizza.
Tea lovers take refuge in Selah Tea Café (177 Main St., Waterville 207/660-9181, www.selahteacafe.com, 8am-6:30pm daily), a cozy spot serving breakfast, sandwiches, soups, and salads in addition to fine teas.
Breakfast fans shouldn’t miss Bonnie’s Diner (972 Benton Ave., Winslow, 207/872-7712, 5:30am-2pm Mon.-Sat., 7am-2pm Sun.), a cheap-eats palace hugging the roadside.
The Downtown Waterville Farmers Market (2pm-6pm Thurs.) sets up in the concourse along Appleton Street downtown.
Fresh, flavorful cuisine with varied ethnic inspirations makes dining at The Last Unicorn (98 Silver St./Rte. 201, Waterville, 207/873-6378, 11am-9pm daily, dinner entrées $18-25) a delicious adventure. Creative appetizers, an extensive wine and cocktail list, and weekend brunch are other pluses of this friendly place, which has patio dining in summer. Soups, salads, spreads, and desserts are made on the premises.
The Riverside Farm Market (291 Fairfield St., Oakland, 207/465-4439, www.riversidefarmmarket.com, 11am-6pm Tues.-Fri., 10am-4pm Sat.) doubles as a casual café (11am-3pm Tues.-Sat., 5:30pm-8:30pm Thurs.-Sat., 11am-2pm Sun.) serves fabulous sandwiches, soups, and salads with a Mediterranean bent, scrumptious baked goods, and designer coffees. You also can pick up baked goods or lunch—soups, salads, quiche, and sandwiches—at the deli and baked goods counter. The dinner menu ($20-26) changes might include saltimbocca or lobster.
The emphasis is on seafood at 18 Below Raw Bar (18 Silver St., Waterville, 855/242-1665, www.18belowrawbar.com, 4pm-9pm Tues.-Sun., $12-28), but landlubbers and vegetarians will find a few options. The lounge is open to 1am.
Linked like a conjoined twin to the Railroad Square Cinema, Buen Apetito (4 Chaplin St., Railroad Sq., Waterville, 207/861-4649, www.buenapetitorestaurant.com, 5pm-8pm Sun.-Mon., 4pm-8pm Tues.-Thurs., 11am-9pm Fri.-Sat., $8-15) serves Southwestern fare accented by fresh salsas and homemade tortillas.
It doesn’t look like much from the outside—or on the inside, for that matter—but the little Lebanese Cuisine (34 Temple St., Waterville, 207/873-7813, 9am-4pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-1pm Sat.) delivers on its name, with authentic dishes including stuffed grape leaves, spinach and feta pastries, and a divine baklava.
For terrific Thai, seek out Pad Thai too (400 Memorial Dr., Waterville, 207/859-8900, www.padthaitoo.me, 4pm-8pm daily and 11am-2pm Tues.-Fri., $9-15), a family-owned and -operated restaurant that caters to vegetarians and vegans (although meat and seafood dishes are available) by using a gluten-free soy sauce instead of fish sauce. Every dish is prepared to order in a small kitchen, so expect a leisurely meal.
The area has numerous Asian restaurants, and one that has stood the test of time is Asian Café (53 Bay St., Winslow, 207/877-6688, 11am-9pm daily, $9-15), serving Japanese, Korean, Thai, and Vietnamese cuisine. Portions are generous, and service is friendly and efficient. A gluten-free menu is available.
The best sources of local information are the Mid-Maine Chamber of Commerce (207/873-3315, www.midmainechamber.com), Waterville Main Street (207/680-2055, www.watervillemainstreet.org), and Kennebec Valley Tourism Council (207/623-4884, www.kennebecvalley.org).
Check out Waterville Public Library (73 Elm St., Waterville, 207/872-5433, www.waterville.lib.me.us). Miller Library (Colby College, Waterville, 207/859-5100) has a huge Irish literature collection and a room dedicated to poet Edwin Arlington Robinson.
By car, Waterville is roughly 23 miles or 28 minutes from Augusta via I-95 and roughly 18 miles or 30 minutes from Belgrade Lakes via Routes 27 and 11. It’s roughly 20 miles or 25 minutes to Skowhegan via I-95 and Route 201.
The Wabanaki named Skowhegan (skow-HE-gun, pop. 8,589), meaning “the place to watch for fish,” because that’s just what the early Native Americans did at the Kennebec River’s twin waterfalls. Their spears were ready when lunch came leaping up the river. The island between the falls later formed the core for European settlement of Skowhegan, the largest town and county seat of Somerset County. Named for England’s Somerset, the county was incorporated in 1823 and covers 3,633 square miles.
Favorite daughter Margaret Chase Smith, one of Maine’s preeminent politicians, put Skowhegan on the map, and even since her 1995 death, admirers and historians have made pilgrimages to her former home. During her years in the U.S. House and Senate, “The Lady from Maine” would return to her constituents—and she was never too busy to autograph place mats at her favorite local restaurant or to wave from her chair in her house’s street-side solarium. Older local residents still recall the day President Dwight D. Eisenhower and his entourage visited Mrs. Smith in 1955, when “Ike” spoke to an enthusiastic crowd at the Skowhegan Fairgrounds.
Another local institution is the nationally and internationally renowned Skowhegan School of Painting and Sculpture, founded in 1946 as a summer residency program. One of the few art schools in the United States offering workshops in fresco painting, Skowhegan provides 65 artists with a bucolic 300-acre lakeside setting for honing their skills and interacting with peers and prominent visiting artists. Gaining admission is highly competitive for the nine-week program. Skowhegan’s annual summer lecture series, featuring big names in the art world, is open to the public.
These days, Skowhegan is earning fame as the state’s bread-making center, thanks to the presence of Maine Grains at the Somerset Grist Mill, which is turning out flours from stone-milled local grains, and the annual Kneading Conference and companion Artisan Bread Fair in late July.
In the early 18th century, the town of Norridgewock (NORE-ridge-wok, pop. 3,367) was a French and Indian stronghold against the British. A century earlier, French Jesuit missionaries had moved in among the Norridgewock Indians at their settlement here and converted them to Catholicism. Best known of these was Father Sébastien Râle, beloved of his Indian parishioners. In 1724, taking revenge for Indian forays against them, a British militia detachment marched in and massacred the priest and his followers, a major milestone during what was known as Dummer’s War. Today, a granite monument to Father Râle stands at the scene, Old Point, along the Kennebec River about two miles south of downtown Madison, close to the Madison-Norridgewock town boundary.
Meaning “smooth water between rapids,” Norridgewock was the last bit of civilization for Benedict Arnold and his men before they headed into the Upper Kennebec wilderness on their march to Québec in 1775. Stopping for almost a week, they spent most of their time caulking their leaky bateaux. Today the town has a slew of handsome 18th- and 19th-century homes.
More recently, some of the scenes in the 2005 movie Empire Falls were shot in Skowhegan. That was one of the bright spots in a town that’s fighting for its economic survival. It recently received grants to spruce up its architecturally rich main street, which unfortunately doubles as Route 201, the major thoroughfare between Québec and the U.S. coast. Take care crossing the street.
Beautifully sited on Neil Hill, high above the Kennebec River, the Margaret Chase Smith Library (56 Norridgewock Ave., Skowhegan, 207/474-7133, www.mcslibrary.org, 10am-4pm Mon.-Fri., donation) bulges with fascinating memorabilia from the life and times of one of Maine’s best-known politicians, who spent 32 years in the U.S. House and Senate and died in 1995. Over the entrance door is her signature red rose; inside is a 20-minute video describing her career. In 2000, the library held a special commemoration of the 50th anniversary of Senator Smith’s “declaration of conscience” speech, in which she courageously castigated Senator Joseph McCarthy for his “Red Scare” witch-hunting tactics. Ask if a staff member is available to show you Senator Smith’s house, connected to the library on the 15-acre estate. (She was born at 81 North Ave. in Skowhegan.) The library is closed the week between Christmas and New Year’s Day. The complex is 0.5 mile west of Route 201 (Madison Ave.).
When you enter the handsome red-brick Skowhegan History House (66 Elm St., Skowhegan, 207/474-6632, www.skowheganhistoryhouse.org, $2 adults, $1 children and seniors), with only half a dozen rooms, you’ll find it hard to believe that blacksmith Aaron Spear built it in 1839 for his family of 10 children. It must have been mighty cozy sleeping. Skowhegan treasures—antique clocks, china, and other furnishings—now fill the two-story structure, which has a commanding view over the Kennebec River and lovely gardens. The house, located just west of Route 201 at the junction of Elm and Pleasant Streets, is staffed by volunteers and open late May to mid-October; call for hours.
Rising 62 feet above its pedestal and weighing 24,000 pounds, the giant wooden Skowhegan Indian statue was carved in 1969 by Maine sculptor Bernard Langlais, a Skowhegan School of Painting alum who died in 1977. Known nationally for his work, Langlais dedicated the monument to the Native Americans who first settled this area. One hand holds a spear, the other holds a stylized fishing weir. The sculpture is in need of some repair work, but it’s still a standout and fundraising is under way for restoration. It’s just off Route 201, tucked in the back corner of a parking lot behind a Cumberland Farms at the intersection with High Street.
Bounded roughly by Water and Russell Streets and Madison Avenue, the Skowhegan Historic District, close to the Kennebec River, contains 38 turn-of-the-20th-century buildings from the town’s heyday as a commercial center. After trains arrived in 1856, the wireless telegraph in 1862, and telephones in 1883, Skowhegan saw incredible prosperity. It’s worth a walkabout to admire the architectural details of a bygone era, although sad to say, many of the buildings need maintenance.
Offbeat doesn’t begin to describe this treasure chest. In a Romanesque building, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, on the Good Will-Hinckley School campus, which was established in 1889 as a school for disadvantaged children, the L. C. Bates Museum (Rte. 201, Hinckley, 207/238-4250, www.gwh.org, 10am-4:30pm Wed.-Sat., 1pm-4:30pm Sun. Apr. 1-mid-Nov., 10am-4:30pm Wed.-Sat. mid-Nov.-Mar. or by appointment, $3 adults, $1 under age 17) is a way-cool, way-retro museum, with a broadly eclectic collection focusing on natural history. Among the treasures in the dozen or so rooms are hundreds of mounted rare birds, priceless Native American artifacts, and a trophy marlin caught by Ernest Hemingway. Dress warmly if you visit in winter; it’s not heated.
Behind the museum, visit the arboretum and nature trails, open dawn-dusk. Forest Walking Trails maps are available in the museum. Alongside the trails are monuments to prominent conservationists. The turreted brick-and-granite building is five miles north of I-95 Exit 133, between Fairfield and Skowhegan, and is visible from Route 201 at the southern end of the campus.
Spanning the South Channel of the Kennebec River, the Swinging Bridge connects Skowhegan Island (from behind the ice cream stand) to Alder Street, off West Front Street. First built in 1883, floods in 1888, 1901, 1936, and 1987 damaged or destroyed the wire footbridge. Its latest incarnation was unveiled in 2006, when the town completely renovated it. The views are terrific, and the island park is a jewel.
The Skowhegan Walking Bridge spans the river about a block below the dam, opposite where Route 201 North and Route 2 split downtown. This one traces its history back to 1856, when it was constructed for the Somerset and Kennebec Railroad. The following year it was carried away by floodwaters. A wooden bridge followed, and then a steel one, also destroyed by floodwaters. The current bridge was built in 1988. Like the Swinging Bridge, it’s worth a stroll just for the views.
For a dose of nostalgia, plan to catch a flick at the 350-car Skowhegan Drive-In (Waterville Rd./Rte. 201, Skowhegan, 207/474-9277, www.skowhegandrivein.com), a landmark since 1954. Nightly double features start at dusk or whenever the sun disappears. Gates open at 7:30pm.
Built in 1901, the Lakewood Theater (Rte. 201, Madison, 207/474-7176, www.lakewoodtheater.org), on the shores of Lake Wesserunsett six miles north of Skowhegan, has had a roller-coaster history, but it’s now in a decidedly “up” phase. Maine’s oldest summer theater presents nine musicals, comedies, and light dramas each season. Performances are at 8pm Thursday-Saturday and at 4pm every other Sunday, plus matinees at 2pm every other Wednesday late May-mid-September. On matinee Wednesday, there is also a 7pm evening performance. Tickets are $19-37 adults and about $18 ages 4-17.
Performing arts events are sometimes scheduled in Skowhegan’s Opera House inside the circa-1909 City Hall, where Booker T. Washington spoke in 1912.
Mid-June-early August, the evening Barbara Fish Lee Lecture Series draws nationally and internationally noted artists to participate in its lecture and presentation series at the Old Dominion Fresco Barn at the Skowhegan School of Painting and Sculpture (207/474-9345, www.skowheganart.org).
Lakewood Theater is Maine’s oldest summer theater.
A concert series is held at Skowhegan’s Coburn Park at 5pm Sunday during July-August.
Mega-size omelets made in the world’s largest omelet pan, a parade, a crafts fair, live entertainment, a carnival, and fireworks are among the features of the Central Maine Egg Festival. The biggest day is Saturday. It’s held at Manson Park in Pittsfield mid-late July.
Artisan bread bakers and those interested in learning about growing and milling grains converge in Skowhegan for the annual late August Kneading Conference and its companion Artisan Bread Fair.
Billed as the oldest country fair in the United States, dating back more than 175 years, and also Maine’s largest outdoor event, the Skowhegan State Fair is a 10-day extravaganza with agricultural exhibits galore, live entertainment, harness racing, food booths, a carnival, and a demolition derby at the Skowhegan Fairgrounds (Rte. 201, Skowhegan) early-mid-August.
Discounts of up to 50 percent are typical for athletic-shoe seconds at the New Balance Factory Store (12 Walnut St., Skowhegan, 207/474-6231). The store also carries sportswear, socks, sports bags, and such. The outlet is just off Route 201 (W. Front St.) south of the Kennebec. The turn is next to Skowhegan Savings Bank.
The Fairfield Antiques Mall (382 Rte. 201, Fairfield, 207/453-4100) boasts that it’s the state’s largest antiques group shop. Judge for yourself; it’s 2.5 miles north of the I-95 interchange.
In downtown Skowhegan, Hilltop Antiques (48 Water St., 207/474-0055) has 27 rooms brimming with finds spread out on three floors.
About 20 talented area artists show their works at the cooperatively owned River Roads Artisans Gallery (75 Water St., Skowhegan).
Donated to the town by Abner Coburn, 13-acre Coburn Park, a wonderful riverside oasis, has a lily pond, memorial gardens (including a hospice garden and a Margaret Chase Smith rose garden), a summer concert series at the gazebo, pagodas, and more than 100 species of trees and shrubs. Bring a picnic, grab a table, and enjoy. The park is on Water Street (Rte. 2) at the eastern edge of town.
Lake George Regional Park (off Rte. 2, Skowhegan and Canaan, 207/474-1292, $5 adults, $1 ages 5-11) has boating, swimming, two sandy beaches, hiking and walking trails, playing fields, and picnicking in two sections framing Lake George.
About three miles north of Solon, close to the Solon-Bingham town line and just north of the area known as Arnold’s Landing, is Arnold’s Way Rest Area, with covered picnic tables, grills, and an outhouse. Interpretive panels here mark the first of two dozen panels along the Old Canada Road Scenic Byway at Moscow, The Forks, Parlin Pond, and Attean, helping motorists get a feel for area history and activities such as logging.
The 18-hole Lakewood Golf Course (Rte. 201, Madison, 207/474-5955, www.lakewoodgolfmaine.com), five miles north of Skowhegan, dates from 1925.
Helen Lamphere and her daughter Charlene run Helen’s Bed and Breakfast (165 Madison Ave./Rte. 201, Skowhegan, 207/474-0066, www.helensbandb.com, Apr.-Dec., $75-105), a handsome 19th-century brick Victorian with four air-conditioned rooms. Antiques, country pieces, and Helen’s hand-braided rugs create a comfy retreat. Helen also sells her rugs. Guests share the large deck and yard.
Sleep where the stars slept at The Colony House Inn Bed and Breakfast (79 Beach Rd., Madison, 888/268-2853, www.colonyhouseinn.com, $45 pp), a lovely—if tired—lakefront historical B&B adjacent to the Lakeside Theater. The 1929 John Calvin Stevens-designed Shingle-style inn is wrapped in old-style elegance, with comfy public rooms, a nice screened porch, and a many-windowed dining room where a full breakfast is served. The prices reflect the old-fashioned baths and the overall need for some TLC. One guest room has a private bath, two lake-facing guest rooms are connected by a bath, and two other guest rooms share a bath. Also on the premises are two cottages ($550-650/week or $100 d per night), one lakefront, the other facing the lake. Within walking distance are the theater, golf course, and a spiritualist camp that has been running for more than 125 years. Rent a boat, or simply settle into one of the Adirondack chairs on the lawn and gaze out at Lake Wesserunsett; it’s heaven.
Convenient to downtown, the Towne Motel (172 Madison Ave./Rte. 201 N., Skowhegan, 207/474-5151 or 800/843-4405, www.townemotel.com, $98-128 July-mid-Oct.) has 33 guest rooms, all with phones, air-conditioning, cable TV, and high-speed Internet access; some have kitchenettes. Continental breakfast is included. The large outdoor pool is great for kids. Pets are welcome in some guest rooms ($10).
For a cheap sleep, check in to the quaint but vintage Breezy Acres Motel (315 Waterville Rd./Rte. 201, Skowhegan, 207/474-2703, www.breezyacresmotel.com, $58-78), owned by Dennis and Nancy Willete since 1979. On the grounds are a picnic area, a trout pond with paddleboating, an outdoor pool, and even a nine-hole golf course.
Just south of downtown, the Snack Shack (100 Waterville Rd./Rte. 201, Skowhegan, 207/474-0550, 11am-8pm Mon.-Sat.) never disappoints for fried foods or sandwiches. It has a few tables, but most folks get takeout.
It doesn’t get much more local than The Pickup Café (42 Court St., Skowhegan, 207/474-0708, www.thepickupcsa.com), located at the Somerset Grist Mill. The café is an offshoot of a community-supported agriculture (CSA) pickup point, and the food for the farm dinners (4pm-9pm Fri.-Sat.), coffeehouse brunches (7am-2pm, Sat.-Sun.), and wood-fired pizza day (3pm-6pm Wed.) comes from local farms.
An 1864 bank now houses The Bankery (87 Water St., Skowhegan, 207/474-2253, www.thebankery.com, 7:30am-6pm Mon.-Sat.), a fine source for made-from-scratch baked goods that include soups, chowders, flatbreads, quiches, breads, cookies, cakes, pies, and other treats. You can even watch the bakers at work.
More than two dozen fat sandwiches, as well as flatbread pizzas, salads, and a soup of the day, draw locals into Kel-Matt Café (112 Madison Ave./Rte. 201, Skowhegan, 207/474-0200, www.kelmatcafe.com, 11am-3pm Mon.-Fri., 11am- 2pm Sat.), in a Victorian house just north of downtown across from Bangor Savings Bank. Service is friendly and efficient. Be careful to park only in the restaurant’s designated lot and not in that of the insurance agency next door.
I scream, you scream, and in Maine everyone screams for Gifford’s Ice Cream (307 Madison Ave./Rte. 1, Skowhegan, no phone). At this roadside institution, you can lick whoopie pie, Maine tracks, Denali peanut butter Iditarod, or Maine wild blueberry flavors while playing a game of miniature golf.
The Skowhegan Farmers Market sets up at the Somerset Grist Mill, at the corner of Court and High Streets, 9am-1pm Saturday May-October.
The parking lot’s always busy at Ken’s Family Restaurant (414 Madison Ave./Rte. 201, Skowhegan, 207/474-3120, www.kensfamilyrestaurant.com, 10:30am-8pm Mon.-Thurs., 7am-9pm Fri.-Sat., 7am-8pm Sun., $7-18), in its second generation of Dionne family ownership. Seafood is the specialty, and seconds are on the house when you order the jumbo fish fry. The Italian menu is equally popular; select a pasta and pair it with a sauce for $8.50. Families know they can count on good home cooking, and there’s always the all-you-care-to-eat breakfast, served weekends. The children’s menu lists about 10 choices for $3.99, and of course there’s the kid-pleasing dirt pudding.
Two doors from the Towne Motel, in a renovated 19th-century home, the M Heritage House Restaurant (182 Madison Ave., Skowhegan, 207/474-5100, www.hhrestaurant.com, lunch buffet 11:30am-2pm Tues.-Fri., dinner 5pm-9pm daily year-round, entrées $16-25) is Skowhegan’s favorite special occasion restaurant. Apricot mustard chicken breast is a specialty. Reservations are advisable on weekends.
Pair a show at the Lakewood Theatre with a meal at the Lakewood Inn Restaurant (76 Theatre Rd., Madison, 207/858-4403, www.lakewoodtheater.org, 5pm-9pm Thurs.-Sat., 11am-2pm and 4:30pm-8pm Wed. and Sun., $13-24). The menu changes regularly, but may include beef tenderloin or Maine haddock.
The Skowhegan Area Chamber of Commerce (23 Commercial St., Skowhegan, 207/474-3621 or 888/772-4392, www.skowheganchamber.com) has info, as does the town’s website (www.skowhegan.org). More information is available from Kennebec Valley Tourism Council (207/623-4884, www.kennebecvalley.org).
Check out Skowhegan Free Public Library (9 Elm St., Skowhegan, 207/474-9072, www.skowhegan.lib.me.us).
By car, Skowhegan is roughly 20 miles or 25 minutes from Waterville via I-95 and Route 201. It’s roughly 45 miles or one hour to Bingham via Route 201.
Route 201, from Solon (pop. 1,053) north to Jackman (pop. 862), is a National Scenic Byway threading through the rural towns of Bingham (pop. 922), Moscow (pop. 512), and The Forks (pop. 37). Until the arrival of white-water rafting in the late 1970s, the Upper Kennebec Valley was best known to anglers, hunters, timber truckers, and families who’d been summering here for generations. And long before that, before dams changed the river’s flow patterns, Native Americans used the Kennebec as a convenient chute from the interior’s dense forests to summer encampments on the coast. In 1775, Col. Benedict Arnold led more than 1,000 men up this river in a futile campaign to storm the ramparts of Québec City.
Midway between Skowhegan and The Forks, 23 miles in each direction, Bingham is also right on the 45th parallel and thus equidistant between the North Pole and the equator (3,107 miles in each direction). This quiet valley town with attractive, manicured homes is a stopping point for many white-water rafters en route to Caratunk and The Forks. The town was named for William Bingham, an influential Colonial-era banker and land speculator who made a fortune in privateering. Roscoe Vernon (“Gadabout”) Gaddis, TV’s pioneering Flying Fisherman, built Bingham’s funky grass airfield, the Gadabout Gaddis Airport, site of an annual September fly-in with plane rides and aerobatics.
Just north of Bingham is Moscow, home of the 155-foot-high Wyman Dam, harnessing the Kennebec River for hydroelectric power. Backed up behind the dam is gorgeous Wyman Lake, lined with birches, evergreens, frequent pullouts (great for shutterbugs), and a small lakeside picnic area on the west side of Route 201.
Appropriately named, The Forks stands at the confluence of the Kennebec and Dead Rivers. Although neither looks particularly menacing from the Route 201 bridge, both draw legions of white-water rafters and kayakers for the class III-IV rapids on the dam-controlled waters.
Surrounded by mountains, Jackman is the valley’s frontier town, the last outpost before the Québec border, 16 miles northward. Founded as a railway stop for lumber trains, it’s now a linchpin in the international snowmobile trail system. Wander into local businesses and you’ll likely hear a French lilt to conversation.
From Bingham to Jackman, Route 201 is better known as “Moose Alley.” Even though state transportation officials have built rumble strips into the road and littered the roadsides with flashing yellow lights and cautionary Moose Crossing signs, drivers still barrel along, and every year fatalities occur. Those who drive carefully, though, have a treat in store: Moose sightings are relatively frequent, especially early and late in the day. If you notice a car or two pulled off the road, it’s likely someone has spotted a moose. (Another Moose Alley in this area—a pretty sure bet for spotting one of the behemoths—is Route 6/15 from Jackman east to Rockwood.)
The South Solon Meeting House (www.southsolonmeetinghouse.org), a serene white clapboard, traditional circa-1842 New England meetinghouse now listed on the National Register of Historic Places, sits at a crossroads in the hamlet of South Solon. The exterior hints at the eye candy inside. One of the founders of the Skowhegan School of Painting and Sculpture rescued the church from ruin in the 1930s; in the 1950s fresco artists selected in a stiff competition were given a free hand to paint the place. The riot of color followed until every square inch of wall and ceiling was frescoed with interdenominational religious scenes. (A fresco program still continues at the Skowhegan School.) The local caretaker is Andy Davis (207/643-2555). The meetinghouse is on the corner of South Solon Road and Meetinghouse Road, north of Route 43 and east of Route 201.
Here’s a big reward for little effort: One of New England’s highest waterfalls, Moxie Falls, with drops of as much as 100 feet, is one of the easiest to reach. From Route 201, just south of the Kennebec River bridge in The Forks, drive 1.8 miles east on Lake Moxie Road to the signposted parking area. From here, via an easy wide trail, plus steps and a boardwalk, it’s 0.6 mile to the falls in Moxie Stream. Allow a relaxed hour for the round-trip; if it’s hot, cool off in the stepped pools. Avoid the falls in June, when blackflies will have you for lunch.
The simple exterior of the South Solon Meetinghouse gives no clue as to the riot of color within.
High on everyone’s list of the best roads to drive in fall is Route 201, the 78-mile officially designated Old Canada Road Scenic Byway (www.fhwa.dot.gov/byways) between Lakewood and the Canadian border. Every curve in the winding two-lane road reveals a red, gold, and green palette any artist would die for. But truly, it’s gorgeous in any season.
It’s also a historic route. Benedict Arnold marched his troops along the Kennebec River to the north of Moscow before crossing the river and turning inland. Rest stops along the route have interpretative signage and picnic tables. Two of the prettiest are Wyman Lake Rest Area, about midway between Bingham and The Forks, and Attean View Rest Area, just south of Jackman (climb the Owl’s Head Trail for an even more spectacular view). The rest area in The Forks, just before the bridge, is a great place to watch rafts float by at the end of their thrilling trip down the Kennebec River. Detour into the neat little hamlet of Caratunk, a smidgen east of Route 201 on the way to Pleasant Pond.
For a glimpse into the region’s glorious past, visit the Old Canada Road Historical Society (16 Sidney St., Bingham, www.oldcanadaroad.org, 1pm-4pm Fri., 11am-4pm Sat.).
Recreation is the big focus in this part of Maine. Among the opportunities in the Upper Kennebec Valley are hiking, canoeing, kayaking, bicycling, fishing, and snowmobiling—just for a start—but the big business is white-water rafting, based in and around The Forks.
Carefully regulated by the state, the rafting companies have come a long way since the sport really took off in the early 1980s. Most have sprawling base complexes and have diversified year-round into other adventure sports such as mountain biking, canoeing, kayaking, camping, rock climbing, horseback riding, snowmobiling, and cross-country skiing. The state strictly monitors the number of rafts allowed on the rivers; on midsummer weekends there’s a near-capacity crowd.
The focus of white-water rafting in this region is the East Branch of the Kennebec River, a 12-mile run from the Hydro Harris Station hydroelectric dam, below Indian Pond, to The Forks. The dam’s controlled water releases produce waves of up to eight feet, and the trip begins with a bang in the Alleyway. The highlight is Magic Falls, a Class IV drop that appears as nothing more than a horizon line when approaching it but that has the punch to flip rafts. The excitement is concentrated in the first half of the trip; by the end of it you’re just floating along, but that provides opportunities for swimming, water fights between rafts, and perhaps kayaking. Some companies also break for a riverside lunch. Kennebec trips operate early May-mid-October.
Most of the rafting companies also organize trips on the more challenging and oddly named Dead River, but serious water releases occur only half a dozen times during the season, mostly on spring weekends. Competition is stiff for space on the infrequent Dead River trips, an exhilarating 16-mile run through Class III-V white water from below Grand Falls to The Forks. The biggest thrill is Poplar Hill Falls. In July-August, the Dead River lives up to its placid name, and outfitters organize moderately priced Sport-Yak and family rafting trips.
The cost of a one-day Kennebec River trip ranges $80-130 pp, depending on whether it’s a weekday, weekend, or midsummer. Prices include a hearty cookout or lunch either along the river or back at base camp. The cost of the one-day Dead River trip ranges $90-140 pp. Scads of economical package rates are available—covering lodging, meals, and other activities—especially early and late in the season. Be forewarned that all outfitters have age minimums, usually 10 on the upper Kennebec and 15 on the Dead. Some also impose a weight minimum.
If you want to make more than a day of it—definitely a good plan, since trips start early in the morning and you’ll be exhilarated but dog-tired at the end of the day—bookend the trip with nearby lodging. Most of the outfitters have accommodations and dining for every budget. The camaraderie is contagious when everyone around you is about to go rafting or has just done it.
About a dozen outfitters operate on the Kennebec and Dead Rivers. The oldest and biggest is Northern Outdoors (1771 Route 201, The Forks, 800/765-7238, www.northernoutdoors.com), with extensive base facilities including lodging, dining, rentals, and more. Five other companies operate under the umbrella of Raft Maine (www.raftmaine.com), which provides info and sends out brochures.
If you’re a neophyte canoeist, if you have never done a multiday trip, or if you want to go en famille, your baptismal expedition probably ought to be the three-day Moose River Bow Trip, an easy 45-mile loop (ergo “bow”) with mostly flat water. Of course, you can do this yourself, and you don’t even need to arrange a shuttle, but a guided trip has its advantages—not the least of which is that the guides provide the know-how for the beginners, they do the cooking and cleanup, and they’re a big help for portaging.
Experienced guides Andy and Leslie McKendry operate Cry of the Loon Kayak Adventures (207/668-7808, www.cryoftheloon.net), which does a three-day Moose River Bow ($425 pp, with only one portage). Maximum group size is eight and minimum four. Leslie’s gourmet meals are included in the cost. Andy and Leslie will also do one-day guided trips ($60 pp with lunch). If you want to be on your own, they rent kayaks and canoes for $25/day. Avoid June, when the blackflies descend; the water level can be a problem in August for the bow trip. Cry of the Loon’s base is 6.5 miles east of Jackman on Route 15.
The nonmotorized multiuse Maine Huts and Trails (www.mainehuts.org) network, which extends about 50 miles from Carrabassett Valley to The Forks, has a full-service hut sited about two miles below Grand Falls on the Dead River, making it easy to hike or bike the trail or even hike in, then paddle out. It’s also open to skiers and snowshoers.
The Appalachian Trail (AT), extending 2,158 miles from Springer Mountain, Georgia, to the summit of Maine’s Katahdin, crosses the Upper Kennebec Valley near Caratunk, just south of The Forks. The Appalachian Trail Guide to Maine provides details for reaching several sections of the white-blazed trail accessible to short-haul hikers. Crossing the 70-yard-wide Kennebec at this point would be a major obstacle were it not for the seasonal free ferry service operated for AT hikers by the Maine Appalachian Trail Club (www.matc.org). Check the website for the current schedule.
Other hikes abound, but access is often through a maze of logging roads or through territory where active logging may change landmarks. Ask locally for directions to the trailheads to Sally Mountain, Number 5 (topped with a fire tower), Coburn Falls, and Kibby Mountain (with an observation deck).
If you’re spending any time in the woods mid-October-November, do not go out without at least a hunter-orange cap to signal your presence to hunters; a hunter-orange vest is even better. Even though some properties are posted No Hunting, don’t take a chance; one scofflaw can make a life-and-death difference. If you’re skittish or don’t have the proper clothing, you can hike on Sunday, when hunting is banned.
Mountain biking is growing in popularity here, but be forewarned that this is logging country, and on the woods roads, logging trucks and equipment have the right of way; don’t mess with them. Best bet is the Maine Huts Trail.
The Kennebec Valley Trail is an easy 14.6-mile multiuse gravel trail that follows an old railroad bed (with no tracks) from between the Williams Dam public landing, alongside the Kennebec River in Solon, and Gaddis Airport, on the southern outskirts of Bingham. The route roughly shadows the river, and is especially gorgeous in autumn.
In the Jackman area, an easy-to-moderate 10-mile trip is the Sandy Bay Loop, beginning seven miles north of downtown Jackman. Jackman’s chamber office has a recreational map detailing this route and others in the area.
The region is a snowmobiling hotbed, with hundreds of miles of groomed snowmobile trails that connect east to the Moosehead Lake area, west to the Sugarloaf area, and north into Canada. Most double as ATV trails.
Escape into the winter wilderness with Northern Outdoors (1771 Rte. 201, The Forks, 800/765-7238, www.northernoutdoors.com). If you’re comfortable exploring the backwoods on your own, rental sleds begin at $235/single sled. Better yet, go with a guide; full-day tours begin at $300.
Most of the white-water rafting companies have lodging, and it’s convenient to stay where you play. But if you aren’t rafting, staying at these places can be a bit overwhelming, especially with the après-raft party atmosphere. If you’re planning to be in this area during snowmobiling season, especially in Jackman, book well in advance; the lodgings get chockablock with sledders.
The custom-designed post-and-beam Hawk’s Nest Lodge, Restaurant & Pub (2989 Rte. 201, West Forks, 207/663-2020, www.hawksnestlodge.com, $60 pp), built in 2004, is especially popular with rafters and sledders. The pine-paneled guest rooms are spacious and comfortably furnished with custom furnishings. All have Wi-Fi, TV, and mini-fridges; most have river views. One especially family-friendly, two-story suite was constructed on the site of a climbing wall, and the hand holds remain. Chain saw carvings by Maine Guide Jeff Samudosky accent the property.
M Attean Lake Lodge (Birch Island, Jackman, 207/668-3792, www.atteanlodge.com, Memorial Day-Sept.) has certain trappings of a traditional sporting camp, but it’s more like an upscale rustic cottage colony geared to families. Owned by the Holden family since 1900, it’s on Birch Island in the center of island- and rock-sprinkled Attean Lake (also called Attean Pond). Brad and Andrea Holden now make it all work—flawlessly. Fourteen well-maintained log cabins (some old, some new, 2-6 beds) have baths, fireplaces, gas or kerosene lamps, and porches with fantastic views of the lake and surrounding mountains. Guests tend to collect in the new main lodge, with its cathedral ceiling, stone fireplaces, and window-walled dining room. Kids love the sandy beach. Meals have plenty of creativity (swordfish with ginger sauce, for instance). Motorboats are $30/day; canoes, kayaks, paddleboats, and a sailboat are free. July-Labor Day, rates for two adults are $345/day, including three meals (wine and beer are available), but nobody stays just one night. Early and late in the season, rates are $280 d per day; children’s rates are much lower. Book well ahead; this is a popular getaway, and many families have been coming for years. Some guests barely leave the island the whole time they’re here, but be sure to paddle across the pond and climb Sally Mountain (about 1.5 miles round-trip) for views that stretch as far as Katahdin; in fall, the foliage vistas are fabulous. Access to the island is via the lodge launch, a five-minute run.
The nicest motel in town is Bishop’s Country Inn Motel (461 Main St., Jackman, 207/668-3231 or 888/991-7669, www.bishopsmotel.com, $105 d), a newish two-story building with free Wi-Fi and HBO, air-conditioning, and continental breakfast. All rooms also have a fridge, a microwave, and a coffeemaker, and there’s a coin-op laundry on the premises. It’s directly across Route 201 from Bishop’s Store, where you can get everything else you might possibly want or need.
Just south of downtown is Mountainview Resort (263 Main St., 207/668-7700), a somewhat dated timeshare resort with guest rooms and 1-3-bedroom cabins, all with woodsy decor and full kitchens. It’s sited on 40 acres with seemingly endless wilderness mountain views. The resort has indoor and outdoor pools, an exercise room, a sauna, and laundry facilities. The best lodging is the cabins. Rates vary by season and accommodation.
How often do you find a campground on the National Register of Historic Places? That’s the case at The Evergreens Campground and Restaurant (Rte. 201A, Solon, 207/643-2324, www.evergreenscampground.com), on a prehistoric site used by Native Americans about 4,000 years ago. Many stone tools and weapons excavated here are now in the Maine State Museum in Augusta; a small collection is displayed at the campground. The campground has mostly wooded sites (tent sites $15, RV sites $28, free under age 8), some right on the Kennebec River. Cabins are $45. Pets are allowed; rental canoes, kayaks, and tubes are available by the day; and shuttle service is available. There is a small launch fee for people bringing their own boats, and a guest fee. The restaurant, open 5pm-8:30pm Friday-Saturday for dinner and 8am-11am Saturday-Sunday for breakfast, has a bar and a riverfront deck. Directly across the river (technically in Embden) is a huge outcrop covered with ancient Indian petroglyphs; eagles can often be seen on this shore. The campground, a mile south of the center of Solon, is open all year, except mud season, and caters to snowmobilers in winter.
Indian Pond Campground (The Forks, 800/371-7774, mid-Apr.-mid-Oct., $14 for two adults, kids under age 14 stay free), next to Harris Station on the East Branch of the Kennebec, where Upper Kennebec rafting trips begin, has 27 tent and RV sites that have picnic tables and fire rings but no hookups. There also are 21 water-access primitive sites. Other facilities include showers, restrooms, RV dump station, laundry machines, and a boat launch. Leashed pets are allowed. You can hike from here to Magic Rock and watch Kennebec River rafters surging through Magic Falls. If hydroelectric plants pique your interest, ask at the gatehouse about a tour of Harris Station. To reach the campground from Route 201 in The Forks, take Lake Moxie Road (also called Moxie Pond Rd.) about five miles east; turn left (north) onto Harris Station Road and continue eight miles to the campground gatehouse.
On Heald Stream in Moose River, a mile east of downtown Jackman, the 24-acre Moose River Campground and Cabins (207/668-4400, www.mooserivercampground.org, mid-May-mid-Oct.) has 48 tent and RV sites close to a picturesque old dam site. Now crumbling from disuse, the dam was once part of a thriving turn-of-the-20th-century lumber mill that employed more than 700 workers to turn out 35 million board feet annually. Open and wooded campsites are $25-35. Housekeeping cabins are $30 pp. Canoe rentals are available. Facilities include a snack bar, a swimming pool, a trout pond, a laundry room, and a children’s play area. Also on-site are three year-round cabins.
Fine dining simply doesn’t exist in this region, but you’ll find good home cooking. It’s always wise to ask locally about current reputations, as they do seem to change with the wind as cooks blow in and out of town or head downriver. Most of the rafting companies also operate restaurants.
Thompson’s Restaurant (348 Main St./Rte. 201, Bingham, 207/672-3330, 7am-3pm Sun.-Wed., 7am-8pm Sat.-Sun.) has been around forever serving inexpensive, no-nonsense fare. It’s had its ups and downs, and is currently on an upswing.
Mama Bear’s in Jackman dishes out hearty portions.
Gas, food, clothing: You can get it at Berry’s Store (Rte. 201, The Forks, 207/663-4461), an institution in these parts. Gordon Berry provides everything the sports-minded person might want or need. Or you might just want to sit down a spell in one of the rockers by the register and catch up on the local gossip.
Pizzas are the drawing card to the Hawk’s Nest Lodge, Restaurant & Pub (2989 Rte. 201, West Forks, 207/663-2020, www.hawksnestlodge.com, $9-29), which also serves typical pub grub as well as some heftier entrées, such as mussels linguine and chicken parmesan.
Home cookin’ is also the specialty at M Mama Bear’s (420 Main St., Jackman, 207/668-4222, 4am-8pm Mon.-Thurs., 4am-9pm Fri.-Sat., 6am-8pm Sun.). Slide into a booth, check out the engraved table and the historical pics lining the walls. Most menu items run $6-12. There’s a full bar too. Interesting note: This tiny spot was Jackman’s original A&P store.
The Kennebec River Brew Pub (Rte. 201, The Forks, 800/765-7238, www.northernoutdoors.com), at Northern Waters, caters to the rafting and recreating crowd, but it’s one of the best bets around. The dinner menu ranges from burgers to filet tips ($10-20). It’s open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
Craving Q? Lake Parlin BBQ & Smokehouse (Rte. 201, Parlin Pond Township, 207/668-9060, www.lakeparlinlodge.com, from 11:30am Thurs.-Mon., $8-24) does the trick and serves it in a pine-walled, lakeview dining area accented with a stone fireplace and animal trophies.
Local information is available from the Upper Kennebec Valley Chamber of Commerce (207/672-4100), The Forks Area Chamber of Commerce (The Forks, 207/663-4430, www.forksarea.com), the Jackman/Moose River Region Chamber of Commerce (207/668-4171 or 888/633-5225, www.jackmanmaine.org), and Kennebec Valley Tourism Council (207/623-4884, www.kennebecvalley.org).
By car, Bingham is roughly 45 miles or one hour from Skowhegan via Route 201. It’s roughly 50 miles or one hour from Bingham to Jackman via Route 201. From Jackman, it’s roughly 50 miles or one hour to Greenville via Route 6/15, and it’s 110 miles or 2.25 hours to Québec City via Routes 201, 173, and 73.