Maine has two major airports, two major bus networks, a toll highway, limited Amtrak service, and some ad hoc local transportation systems that fill in the gaps.
Maine’s primary airline gateway is Portland International Jetport (PWM, 207/774-7301, www.portlandjetport.org), although visitors headed farther north sometimes prefer Bangor International Airport (BGR, 207/947-0384, www.flybangor.com). The “international” in their names is a bit misleading. Military and charter flights from Europe often stop at Bangor for refueling and customs clearance, and Portland has a few flights connecting to Canada, but Boston’s Logan Airport is the nearest airport with direct flights from worldwide destinations.
Portland’s airport is small and easy to navigate. Food options are few, but you won’t starve. Visitor information is dispensed from a desk (not always staffed, unfortunately) between the gates and the baggage-claim area. Note: Since Portland is the terminus of most flights, baggage service isn’t a priority; expect to hang around for a while. If you have an emergency, contact the airport manager (207/773-8462).
Ground Transportation: The Greater Portland Transportation District’s Metro (207/774-0351, www.gpmetrobus.com) bus route 5 connects the airport with downtown Portland Monday through Saturday. Taxis are available outside baggage claim.
Mid-Coast Limo (207/236-2424 or 800/937-2424) provides car service, by reservation, between Portland and the Mid-Coast and Penobscot Bay regions. Mermaid Transportation Co. (800/696-2463, www.gomermaid.com) services Greater Portland and the Kennebunks.
Car rentals at the airport include Alamo (207/775-0855 or 877/222-9075, www.alamo.com), Avis (207/874-7500 or 800/230-4898, www.avis.com), Budget (207/874-7500 or 800/527-0700, www.drivebudget.com), Hertz (207/774-4544 or 800/654-3131, www.hertz.com), and National (207/773-0036 or 877/222-9058, www.nationalcar.com).
Bangor’s airport has scaled-down versions of Portland’s facilities but all the necessary amenities. If you need help, contact the airport manager (207/947-0384).
Ground Transportation: Bangor Area Transportation (BAT, 207/992-4670, www.bgrme.org) buses connect the airport to downtown Bangor. Buses run Monday-Saturday. West’s Coastal Connection (207/546-2823 or 800/596-2823, www.westbusservice.com) has scheduled service along Route 1 to Calais, with stops en route. Taxis are available outside baggage claim.
Bar Harbor-Bangor Shuttle (207/479-5911, www.barharborbangorshuttle.com) operates between the airport, Greyhound and Concord Coachlines bus terminals, the Bangor Mall, Hollywood Slots, and Bar Harbor.
Car rentals at the airport include Alamo (207/947-0158 or 800/462-5266, www.alamo.com), Avis (207/947-8383 or 800/831-2847, www.avis.com), Budget (207/945-9429 or 800/527-0700, www.drivebudget.com), Hertz (207/942-5519 or 800/654-3131, www.hertz.com), and National (207/947-0158 or 800/227-7368, www.nationalcar.com).
JetBlue partner Cape Air (866/227-3247, www.flycapeair.com) flies from Boston to Hancock County Airport (BHB, 207/667-7329, www.bhbairport.com) near Bar Harbor, Knox County Regional Airport (RKD, 207/594-4131, www.knoxcountymaine.gov) at Owls Head, near Rockland and Camden, and Augusta State Airport (AUG, 207/626-2306, www.augustaairport.org). Alaska Air partner PenAir (800/448-4226, www.penair.com) provides summer service to Bar Harbor from Boston and year-round service to and from Northern Maine Regional Airport (PQI, 207/764-2550, www.flypresqueisle.com), in Presque Isle. Hancock County Airport has rental-car offices for Hertz and Enterprise and is also serviced by the Island Explorer bus late June-Columbus Day. Knox County has car rentals from Budget and Enterprise. Augusta has Hertz rentals. Northern Maine has Avis and Budget.
If you fly into Boston (BOS), you easily can get to Maine via rental car (all major rental companies at the airport, but it’s not pleasant to navigate Logan in a rental car) and Concord Coachlines bus (easiest and least-expensive option). You’ll need to connect to North Station to take Amtrak’s Downeaster train.
The major highway access to Maine from the south is I-95, which roughly parallels the coast until Bangor, before shooting up to Houlton. Other busy access points are Route 1, also from New Hampshire, departing the coast in Calais at the New Brunswick province border; Route 302, from North Conway, New Hampshire, entering Maine at Fryeburg; Route 2, from Gorham, New Hampshire, to Bethel; Route 201, entering from Québec province, just north of Jackman, and a couple of crossing points from New Brunswick into Aroostook and Washington Counties in northeastern Maine.
Concord Coachlines (800/639-3317, www.concordcoachlines.com) departs downtown Boston (South Station Transportation Center) and Logan Airport for Portland almost hourly from the wee hours of the morning until late at night, making pickups at all Logan airline terminals (lower level). Most of the buses continue directly to Bangor; three daily nonexpress buses continue along the coast, stopping in Brunswick, Bath, Wiscasset, Damariscotta, Waldoboro, Rockland, Camden, Belfast, and Searsport, before turning inland to Bangor. The Portland bus terminal is the Portland Transportation Center, Thompson Point Road, just west of I-295. Buses are clean, movies are shown, and there’s free Wi-Fi on most.
Also servicing Coastal Maine but with far less frequent service is Greyhound (800/231-2222, www.greyhound.com).
Once-a-day buses to and from Calais coordinate with the Bangor bus schedules. The Calais line, stopping in Ellsworth, Gouldsboro, Machias, and Perry (near Eastport), is operated by West’s Coastal Connection (207/546-2823 or 800/596-2823, www.westbusservice.com). Flag stops along the route are permitted.
Portland and South Portland have city bus service, with some wheelchair-accessible vehicles. A number of smaller communities have established local shuttle vans or trolley-buses, but most of the latter are seasonal. Trolley-buses operate (for a fee) in Ogunquit, Wells, the Kennebunks, Portland, Bath, and Boothbay. Mount Desert Island and the Schoodic Peninsula have the Island Explorer, an excellent free bus service operating late June-early October.
It’s now possible to travel by train from Boston to Rockland. Amtrak’s Downeaster (800/872-7245, www.amtrakdowneaster.com) makes daily round-trip runs between Boston’s North Station and Brunswick, with stops in Wells, Saco, seasonally in Old Orchard Beach (May 1 to October 31), and the Portland Transportation Center. From Brunswick, take the Maine Eastern Railway (866/637-2457, www.maineeasternrailroad.com), a seasonal excursion train between Brunswick and Rockland with stops in Bath and Wiscasset. From the Portland station, Portland’s Metro municipal bus service will take you gratis to downtown Portland; just show your Amtrak ticket stub.
In 2014, Nova Star Cruises (888/216-9018 U.S., 888/762-4058 Canada, www.novastarcruises.com) launched a new international cruise-car-ferry service between Ocean Gateway Terminal, in Portland, Maine, and Yarmouth International Ferry Terminal, in Yarmouth, Nova Scotia. The 528-foot Nova Star provides daily round-trip ferry service from early May through early November. The nine-hour overnight crossing departs Portland at 8pm EST and arrives in Yarmouth 7am AST. The day cruise departs Yarmouth at 9am AST and arrives in Portland at 5pm EST. Ferry amenities include restaurants, casino, live entertainment, theater, art gallery, fitness center, spa, children’s area, and duty-free shopping. One-way fares range $79-129 adults and $39-64 kids ages 5-12. Add $19-39 for an assigned recliner chair, $49-89 for a cabin, $129-179 for cars; $49-89 for motorcycles, and $16 -22 for bicycles.
The Maine Department of Transportation (800/877-9171) operates the Explore Maine site (www.exploremaine.org), which has information on all forms of transportation in Maine.
No matter how much time and resourcefulness you summon, you’ll never really be able to appreciate Maine without a car. Down every little peninsula jutting into the Atlantic lies a picturesque village or park or ocean view.
Two lanes wide from Kittery in the south to Fort Kent at the top, U.S. Route 1 is the state’s most congested road, particularly July-August. Mileage distances can be extremely deceptive, since it will take you much longer than anticipated to get from point A to point B. If you ask anyone about distances, chances are good that you’ll receive an answer in hours rather than miles. If you’re trying to make time, it’s best to take the Maine Turnpike or I-95; if you want to see Maine, take U.S. 1 and lots of little offshoots. That said, bear in mind that even I-95 becomes megacongested on summer weekends, and especially summer holiday weekends.
Note that the interstate can be a bit confusing to motorists. Between York and Augusta, I-95 is the same as the Maine Turnpike, a toll highway regulated by the Maine Turnpike Authority (877/682-9433 or 800/675-7453 travel conditions, www.maineturnpike.com). All exit numbers along I-95 reflect distance in miles from the New Hampshire border. I-295 splits from I-95 in Portland and follows the coast to Brunswick before veering inland and rejoining I-95 in Gardiner. Exits on I-295 reflect distance from where it splits from I-95 just south of Portland at Exit 44.
For real-time information on road conditions, weather, construction, and major delays, dial 511 in Maine, 866/282-7578 from out of state, or visit www.511maine.gov. Information is available in both English and French.
Seat belts are mandatory in Maine. Unless posted otherwise, Maine allows right turns at red lights after you stop and check for oncoming traffic. Never pass a stopped school bus in either direction. Maine law also requires drivers to turn on their car’s headlights any time the windshield wipers are operating.
Since Maine is enslaved to the automobile, it’s not a bad idea for vacationers to carry membership in AAA in case of breakdowns, flat tires, and other car crises. Contact your nearest AAA office or AAA Northern New England (425 Marginal Way, Portland 04101, 207/780-6800 or 800/482-7497, www.northernnewengland.aaa.com). The emergency road service number is 800/222-4357.
Weather can be unpredictable in Maine, with fog, rain, and temperatures ranging from the low 30s on a cold spring day to the 90s on a hot summer one. But even summer sees days when a fleece pullover or jacket and a lightweight, weatherproof jacket are quite welcome. A hat and mittens are a plus when venturing far off shore on a windjammer or whale-watching boat or climbing inland peaks in spring or fall. Other handy items are binoculars; a small backpack for day trips or light hiking; and a small or collapsible cooler for picnics or storing food.
Unless you’re dining at the White Barn Inn or Arrows, you won’t need fancy clothing. Resort casual is the dress code in most good restaurants and in downtown Portland, with nice T-shirts and shorts being acceptable almost everywhere in beach communities.
In winter and spring, add warm waterproof boots, gloves, hat, and winter-weight clothing to your list.
Since 9/11, security has been excruciatingly tight for foreign visitors, with customs procedures in flux. For current rules, visit www.usa.gov/visitors/arriving.shtml. It’s wise to make two sets of copies of all paperwork, one to carry separately on your trip and another left with a trusted friend or relative at home.
Maine now has laws banning smoking in restaurants, bars, and lounges as well as enclosed areas of public places, such as shopping malls. Few accommodations permit smoking, and if they do, it’s only in limited areas or rooms. Many have instituted high fines for smoking in a nonsmoking room. If you’re a smoker, motels with direct outdoor access make it easiest to satisfy a craving.
For all accommodation listings, rates are quoted for peak season, which is usually July-August but may extend through foliage (mid-October). Rates drop, often dramatically, in the shoulder and off-season at accommodations that remain open. Especially during peak season, many accommodations require a two- or three-night minimum.
For the best rates, check Internet specials and ask about packages. Many accommodations also provide discounts for members of travel clubs such as AAA, for seniors and for members of the military, and other such groups.
Unless otherwise noted, accommodations listed have private baths.
Days and hours of operation listed for places serving food are for peak season. These do change often, sometimes even within a season, and it’s not uncommon for a restaurant to close early on a quiet night. To avoid disappointment, call before making a special trip.
As in the rest of the country, Maine’s minimum drinking age is 21 years—and bar owners, bartenders, and serving staff can be held legally accountable for serving underage imbibers. If your blood alcohol level is 0.08 percent or higher, you are legally considered to be operating under the influence.
All of Maine is in the eastern time zone—the same as New York, Washington DC, Philadelphia, and Orlando. Eastern standard time (EST) runs from the last Sunday in October to the first Sunday in April; eastern daylight time (EDT), one hour later, prevails otherwise. Surprising to many first-time visitors is how early the sun rises in the morning and how early it sets at night.
If your itinerary also includes Canada, remember that the provinces of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia are on Atlantic time—one hour later than eastern—so if it’s noon in Maine, it’s 1pm in these provinces.
There’s too much to do in Maine, and too much to see, to spend even a few hours laid low by illness or mishap. Be sensible—be sure to get enough sleep, wear sunscreen and appropriate clothing, know your limits and don’t take foolhardy risks, heed weather and warning signs, carry water and snacks while hiking, don’t overindulge in food or alcohol, always tell someone where you’re going, and watch your step. If you’re traveling with children, you should quadruple your caution.
In an emergency, dial 911.
York Hospital (15 Hospital Dr., York, emergency 207/351-2157); York Hospital in Wells (112/114 Sanford Rd., Wells, 207/646-5211, 8am-7pm daily); Southern Maine Medical Center (Rte. 111, Biddeford, 207/283-7000, emergency 207/294-5000).
Maine Medical Center (22 Bramhall St., Portland, 207/662-0111, emergency 207/662-2381); Mercy Hospital (144 State St., Portland, 207/879-3000, emergency 207/879-3265).
Mid Coast Hospital (Bath Rd., Cooks Corner, Brunswick, 207/729-0181); Parkview Hospital (329 Main St., a mile south of Bowdoin College, Brunswick, 207/373-2000); St. Andrews Hospital and Healthcare Center (3 St. Andrews Ln., Boothbay Harbor, 207/633-2121); Miles Memorial Hospital (Bristol Rd., Rte. 130, Damariscotta, 207/563-1234).
Penobscot Bay Medical Center (Rte. 1, Rockport, 207/596-8000, emergency 207/596-8315); Waldo County General Hospital (118 Northport Ave., Belfast, 207/338-2500 or 800/649-2536).
The hospital in this region is Blue Hill Memorial Hospital (57 Water St., Blue Hill, 207/374-3400, emergency 207/374-2836).
Hospitals are Maine Coast Memorial Hospital (50 Union St., Ellsworth, 207/664-5311 or 888/645-8829, emergency 207/664-5340) and Mount Desert Island Hospital (10 Wayman Ln., Bar Harbor, 207/288-5081).
Down East Community Hospital (Upper Court St., Rte. 1A, Machias, 207/255-3356); Regional Medical Center at Lubec (43 S. Lubec Rd., Lubec, 207/733-5541); Eastport Health Care (Boynton St., Eastport, 207/853-6001); Calais Regional Hospital (50 Franklin St., Calais, 207/454-7521).
Houlton Regional Hospital (20 Hartford St., Houlton, 207/532-2900); Aroostook Medical Center (140 Academy St./Rte. 10, Presque Isle, 207/768-4100); Cary Medical Center (163 Van Buren Rd., Caribou, 207/498-3111); Northern Maine Medical Center (194 E. Main St./Rte. 1, Fort Kent, 207/834-3155).
Millinocket Regional Hospital (200 Somerset St., Millinocket, 207/723-5161); Charles A. Dean Memorial Hospital (364 Pritham Ave., Greenville, 207/695-5200); Mayo Regional Hospital (43 Dwelley St., Dover-Foxcroft, 207/564-8401); Eastern Maine Medical Center (489 State St., Bangor, 207/973-7000); St. Joseph Hospital (360 Broadway, Bangor, 207/907-1000).
Maine General Alfond Center for Health Care (Olde Belgrade Rd. at I-95 Exit 113, Augusta, 207/626-1000); Redington-Fairview General Hospital (Fairview Ave./Rte. 104, Skowhegan, 207/474-5121); Jackman Region Health Center (376 Main St./Rte. 201, Jackman, 207/668-4300).
Franklin Memorial Hospital (111 Franklin Health Commons, Farmington, 207/778-6031); Rangeley Region Health Center (25 Dallas Hill Rd., Rangeley, 207/864-3303); The Bethel Family Health Center (32 Railroad St., Bethel, 207/824-2193); Rumford Hospital (420 Franklin St., Rumford, 207/369-1000); Stephens Memorial Hospital (181 Main St., Norway, 207/743-5933); Bridgton Hospital (S. High St., Bridgton, 207/647-6000); Central Maine Medical Center (300 Main St., Lewiston, 207/795-0111); St. Mary’s Regional Medical Center (93 Campus Ave., Lewiston, 207/777-8100).
If you plan to spend any time outdoors in Maine April-November, take precautions, especially when hiking, to avoid annoying insect bites and especially the diseases carried by tiny deer ticks (not the larger dog ticks; they don’t carry it): Lyme disease, anaplasmosis, and babesiosis. Mosquito-borne Eastern Equine Encephalitis has been found in mosquitoes in Southern Maine, but as of 2013 had not yet been diagnosed in humans.
Wear a long-sleeved shirt and long pants, and tuck pant legs into your socks. Light-colored clothing makes ticks easier to spot. Buy insect repellent with DEET at a supermarket or convenience store and use it liberally; apply permethrin to clothing. Not much daunts the blackflies of spring and early summer, but you can lower your appeal by not using perfume, aftershave lotion, or scented shampoo and by wearing light-colored clothing.
After any hike or prolonged time outdoors in the woods, thick grass, overgrown bushes, or piles of brush or leaves, check for ticks—especially behind the knees and in the armpits, navel, and groin. If you find one, there’s a good chance the tick was infected with Lyme disease, a bacterial infection that causes fever, head and body aches, and fatigue and can lead to joint pain and neurological and heart problems. It usually takes 24-48 hours before an attached tick begins to transmit the disease. About 80 percent of Lyme patients get a bull’s-eye rash that appears within a month of being bit. Anaplasmosis and babesiosis also exhibit flu-like symptoms. Anaplasmosis can, in rare circumstances, lead to enecephalitis/meningitis; babesiosis can cause anemia and dark urine and is especially problematic for those with weakened immune systems or who have had their spleen removed.
If bitten by a tick, wash the area thoroughly with soap and water and apply an antiseptic, mark the date on a calendar, then monitor your health. If you suspect any of these diseases, see a doctor to be diagnosed and treated immediately; don’t put it off. For more information, contact the Maine Center for Disease Control (800/821-5821, www.mainepublichealth.gov).
If you’re bitten by any animal, especially one acting suspiciously, head for the nearest hospital emergency room. For statewide information about rabies, contact the Maine Center for Disease Control (800/821-5821, www.mainepublichealth.gov).
If your medical history includes extreme allergies to shellfish or bee stings, you know the risks of eating a lobster or wandering around a wildflower meadow. However, if you come from a landlocked area and are new to crustaceans, you might not be aware of the potential hazard. Statistics indicate that less than 2 percent of adults have a severe shellfish allergy, but for those victims, the reaction can set in quickly. Immediate treatment is needed to keep the airways open. If you have a history of severe allergic reactions to anything, be prepared when you come to the Maine coast dreaming of lobster feasts. Ask your doctor for a prescription for EpiPen (epinephrine), a preloaded, single-use syringe containing 0.3 mg of the drug—enough to tide you over until you can get to a hospital.
If you’re planning to do any boating in Maine—particularly sailing—you’ll want to be prepared. (Being prepared may in fact keep you from succumbing, since fear of seasickness just about guarantees you’ll get it.) Talk to a pharmacist or doctor about your options.
Wind and weather can shift dramatically in Maine, especially at higher elevations, creating prime conditions for contracting hypothermia and frostbite. At risk are hikers, swimmers, canoeists, kayakers, sailors, skiers, even cyclists.
To prevent hypothermia and frostbite, dress in layers and remove or add them as needed. Wool, waterproof fabrics (such as Gore-Tex), and synthetic fleece (such as Polartec) are the best fabrics for repelling dampness. Polyester fleece lining wicks excess moisture away from your body. Especially in winter, always cover your head, since body heat escapes quickly through the head; a ski mask will protect ears and nose. Wear wool- or fleece-lined gloves and wool socks.
During Maine’s fall hunting season (October-Thanksgiving weekend)—and especially during the November deer season—walk or hike only in wooded areas marked No Hunting, No Trespassing, or Posted. And even if an area is closed to hunters, don’t decide to explore the woods during deer or moose season without wearing a “hunter orange” (read: eye-poppingly fluorescent) jacket or vest. If you take your dog along, be sure it, too, wears an orange vest. Hunting is illegal on Sunday.
If you need to exchange foreign currency—other than Canadian dollars—do it at or near border crossings or in Portland. In small communities, such transactions are more complicated; you may end up spending more time and money than necessary.
Typical banking hours are 9am-3pm weekdays, occasionally with later hours on Friday. Drive-up windows at many banks tend to open as much as an hour earlier and stay open an hour or so after lobbies close. Some banks also maintain Saturday morning hours. Automated teller machines (ATMs) are abundant along coastal Maine.
Bank credit cards have become so preferred and so prevalent that it’s nearly impossible to rent a car or check into a hotel without one. MasterCard and Visa are most widely accepted in Maine, and Discover and American Express are next most popular; Carte Blanche, Diners Club, and EnRoute (Canadian) lag far behind. Be aware, however, that small restaurants (including lobster pounds), shops, and bed-and-breakfasts off the beaten track might not accept credit cards or nonlocal personal checks; you may need to settle your account with cash or travelers check.
Maine charges a 5.5 percent sales tax on general purchases and services; 8 percent on prepared foods, candy, and lodging/camping; and 10 percent on auto rentals.
Tip 15-20 percent of the pretax bill in restaurants.
Taxi drivers expect a 15 percent tip; airport porters expect at least $1 per bag, depending on the difficulty of the job.
The usual tip for housekeeping services in accommodations is $1-4 per person, per night, depending upon the level of service.
Some accommodations add a 10-15 percent service fee to rates.
The Maine Office of Tourism has established an excellent website: www.visitmaine.com. You’ll find chamber of commerce addresses, articles, photos, information on lodgings, and access to a variety of Maine tourism businesses. The state’s toll-free information hotline is 888/MAINE-45 (888/624-6345). The state also operates Information Centers in Calais, Fryeburg (May-October), Hampden, Houlton, Kittery, and Yarmouth. These are excellent places to visit to stock up on brochures, pick up a map, ask for advice, and use restrooms. All, except Hamden, offer free Wi-Fi.
The Maine Tourism Association (207/623-0363, www.mainetourism.com) also has information and publishes Maine Invites You and a free state map.
Peek in any Mainer’s car, and you’re likely to see a copy of The Maine Atlas and Gazetteer, published by DeLorme Mapping Company in Yarmouth. Despite an oversize format inconvenient for hiking and kayaking, this 96-page paperbound book just about guarantees that you won’t get lost (and if you’re good at map reading, it can get you out of a lot of traffic jams). Scaled at one-half inch to the mile, it’s meticulously compiled from aerial photographs, satellite images, U.S. Geological Survey maps, GPS readings, and timber-company maps, and it is revised annually. It details back roads and dirt roads and shows elevation, boat ramps, public lands, campgrounds and picnic areas, and trailheads. DeLorme products are available nationwide in book and map stores, but you can also order direct (800/452-5931, www.delorme.com). The atlas is $19.95 and shipping is $4 (Maine residents need to add 5 percent sales tax).
Maine still has only one telephone area code, 207. For directory assistance, dial 411.
Cell phone towers are now sprinkled pretty much throughout Maine; only a few pockets—mostly down peninsulas and in remote valleys and hollows—are out of cell-phone range. Of course, reception also varies by carrier and getting reception often requires doing the cell-phone hokey pokey—putting your left arm out, your right leg in, and so on to find the strongest signal.
Internet access is widely available at libraries and coffeehouses. Most hotels and many inns and bed-and-breakfasts also offer Internet access.