The Classic Martini, this page
To help you find your way around gin, it’s helpful to understand the different styles you’ll find hanging around the shelves of your liquor store. Traditionally, gin is a neutral grain spirit flavored with juniper berries, but modern gin can include everything from orange peel to almonds. These plant, fruit, and herb add-ins are often referred to in booze circles as “botanicals.” In the beginning, it might be hard to smell and taste past the alcohol fumes, but once you get the hang of it, you’ll be able to identify lots of different aromas.
SPEAKEASY
The word gin comes from the Dutch word genever, meaning “juniper.”
Modern gins can include spices such as cardamom and nutmeg as well as any of these botanicals: juniper berries, almond, apple, black currant, lemon peel, orange, angelica, licorice, lavender, and cassia bark (cinnamon).
As with every spirit we’ll explore this year, there’s more than just one style of gin, and the only way to learn the difference is to taste them side by side. Like winemakers, distillers each put their own signature spin on their spirits, so there are always little differences from brand to brand. Here’s a guide to the most popular terms you may come across on labels while shopping:
London Dry Gin When you order a gin cocktail, expect to get London dry in your glass. “Dry” implies that it is not sweet. London dry is what’s considered the typical English style, where the botanicals are distilled right into the gin, not added later. This creates a light and aromatic flavor, making this the perfect pick for cocktails. One other note: Gin in this style can come from all over the world; it doesn’t have to come from London! When you’re out shopping, some popular brands you’ll find are: Beefeater, Bombay and Bombay Sapphire, Classic Tanqueray, Tanqueray 10, Van Gogh, Boodles, Gilbey’s, Old Raj, Citadelle, and Magellan.
Old Tom Gin This is known as old-style gin and tends to be a little sweet. Once wildly popular, this type of gin may be difficult to locate now, as dry gins tend to be more pleasing to our modern palates. Call ahead to your local store before going on a wild gin chase. Famous brands include Hayman’s and Ransom.
Plymouth Gin Just as Champagne can only legally come from Champagne, France, British law stipulates that Plymouth gin can only be produced in the city of Plymouth. Its flavors are similar to London dry gin, but amped up—Plymouth has more body, and more variety in aromas that can range from fruity to citrusy. It’s also very dry. The only brand is simply Plymouth Gin.
Holland Gin or Genever Known as Dutch style, this has an uber-junipery finish. Like England’s Old Tom gin, genever is distilled from malted grain, giving it a slight yellow tinge. While London dry is more similar to vodka, this style is more in line with a very light whiskey. In this category there are subcategories, including the jonge genever, which is a light-bodied young gin that contains more grain than malt wine, and korenwijn, which is wood aged.
Because genever, or Holland gins, are big on flavor, they’re best served neat or on ice, as their flavors can be tricky when mixed in cocktails. This type is harder to find, but brands like Bols, Bokma, De Kuyper, and Anchor Genevieve are available.
Modern or New Western Gins In order to compete with the vodka craze of the eighties and nineties, some gin distillers started to mimic that style of aroma-free, neutral spirits. As the cocktail culture continues to boom, new styles of “botanical” driven gins are reemerging. These gins tend to have a more subtle flavor profile with a balanced botanical palate of flavors like vanilla and lavender, as opposed to the classic heavily juniper-flavored pours. Still made from neutral spirits, these gins are not necessarily grain based, and can include an array of flavorings from the area in which they are distilled. For example, Greyling Modern Dry Gin from Michigan uses local lavender. Other examples include Beefeater Wet, which is pear flavored; Hendrick’s from Scotland, which features rose petals and cucumbers; and the creamy full-bodied American Aviation gin made with cardamom, lavender, Indian sarsaparilla, and anise.
What is Vermouth?
As you break into the world of cocktail making, you’ll quickly see that bottles of both sweet and dry vermouth (pronounced ver-Mooth) are must-haves for your home bar. Vermouth is a fortified (meaning an alcohol like cognac or brandy is added) red or white wine that is flavored with botanicals. There are two main types, sweet or dry, but new lesser-known types like bianco, amber, and rose have been popping up on drink menus lately. Vermouth, like wine, is perishable. It used to have a bad rap in the states because we really didn’t know what to do with it. Now we know that vermouth is surprisingly versatile, either sipped on its own as a delicate aperitif in the European style, or mixed up in cocktails.
Dry Vermouth is clear, bitter, and light-bodied, and is used to make the classic martini. Either the French brand Noilly Prat, considered the traditional pour, or the popular Italian Martini & Rossi are suitable for this drink. You may also find Gallo, Dolin, or Cinzano on the shelves.
Sweet Vermouth Typically a ruddy red color, this type of vermouth is full-bodied and sweetened with sugar syrup. You’d use this for cocktails like the Negroni or the Manhattan. The brands Noilly Prat, Dolin, and Martini & Rossi all make quality sweet vermouth.
NEW YEAR’S RESOLUTIONS
You’re already off to a great start by kicking off your cocktail club this year. In case you needed a few more resolutions to add to the list, here are some that will make this year of drinking with friends even more fun.
• Don’t judge a drink by its color. You may just find this year that you love bourbon instead of Cosmos.
• Be open-minded! Don’t let labels, price, or reputation prohibit you from finding out what you really love to sip.
• Keep it simple. Hosting cocktail club should be just as fun as attending, so no need to go overboard on décor or fancy food—remember it’s a club, not a competition.
Like most historical successes, the Martini’s start is much disputed, with multiple sources claiming to be responsible for its creation. Feel free to choose whichever incarnation you like best, as long, of course, as you are pondering this over a nice cold martini.
There is an English claim to the cocktail dating back to the late 1800s, which pins its name to the famous firearm favored by the royal navy, called a Martini-Henry rifle. One was likened to the other because, allegedly, they both had a kick (though even English friends of mine believe the Martini cocktail was created in America, and they take their gin seriously).
Stateside, we have a few tales, too. Some say it was invented in the town of Martinez, California, by a bartender named Richelieu. In another story, the famed San Francisco “Professor” Jerry Thomas of the Occidental Hotel claimed he had created it for a miner headed to the town of Martinez.
On the other side of the country, New York’s Knickerbocker hotel maintains that their bartender, Martini di Arma di Traggi, stirred it up in 1910 as a “Gin and French.” Martini’s method involved stirring his drink with lots of ice, straining it, and topping the whole thing with a lemon twist. It was his loyal bar patrons who are credited with changing the garnish to an olive, creating what we now consider the classic Martini cocktail.
Is That An Egg in Your Cocktail?
Maybe you’re more of an adventurous imbiber, but for most, the idea of using raw eggs in cocktails may be intimidating. Aside from the common eggnog, there are whole categories of drinks containing this lovely little protein. Along with the nogs there are fizzes—like this month’s Sloe Gin Fizz (this page)—sours, and flips. Sours and Fizzes can be made with or without the egg and typically they call for just the egg white. With Nogs and Flips, you get the whole egg or the egg yolk.
Including a whole raw egg, or even just the yolk or white, in your shaker creates a frothy top to your sip and a sultry feel as soon as it hits your mouth. If you like a creamy dreamy cocktail, you may just fall for an egg in your shaker.
SHAKEN OR STIRRED?
This simple sleight of hand has been cause for many a bar brawl. The Savoy Cocktail Book, considered a bible among drink fans, insists the Martini be shaken, although it was Bond, James Bond, whose famous “shaken, not stirred” line garnered attention for this team. On the flip side, Martini purists insist this drink be stirred, preventing the Martini from being overdiluted by melting ice, which is a direct result of being shaken.