Kyūshū

Why Go?

Japan's southern- and westernmost main island is arguably its warmest, friendliest and most beautiful, with active volcanic peaks, rocky, lush and near-tropical coastlines, and great onsen virtually everywhere. Much Japanese history was made in Kyūshū (九州). Jōmon ruins, Shintō's sun goddess, wealthy trading ports, cloistered foreigners, samurai rebels and one of the earth's greatest wartime tragedies all loom large.

Today, burgeoning Fukuoka is a multicultural metropolis. In sweet, picturesque Nagasaki, tragedy contrasts with a colourful trading history. Kumamoto's castle is one of Japan's finest, and the volcanic Aso caldera is the world's largest (note that both were heavily damaged in earthquakes in 2016). Saga Prefecture boasts three legendary pottery centres. Steam pours from the earth in Beppu, Miyazaki's Nichinan coast boasts vistas, monkeys and Japan's best surfing, while Kagoshima, heart of the Meiji Restoration, smoulders – literally – with active volcanoes. Peppered throughout are relaxing hot-spring towns, trekking trails and family-friendly fun.

When to Go

AApr–May Temperate weather and blooming azaleas on the volcanic slopes.

AJul–Aug Beat the night-time heat at delicious yatai (food stalls) in Fukuoka.

AOct–Nov Pleasant temperatures bring energetic festivals, such as Nagasaki’s Kunchi Matsuri.

Best Places to Eat

A Tōsenkyō Sōmen Nagashi

A Kawashima Tōfu

A Shippoku Hamakatsu

A Takamori Dengaku-no-Sato

A Gyōza Kogetsu

Best Places to Sleep

A Yōyōkaku

A Hotel Nampuro

A Hostel Akari

A Yufu-no-Oyado Hotaru

A ANA Holiday Inn Resort Miyazaki

Kyūshū Highlights

1 Fukuoka Joining the night owls for beer and yakitori (skewers) at a yatai (food stall).

2 Hirado Being moved – and charmed – by the unique history of this secluded island.

3 Ibusuki Getting buried in warm volcanic sand in this hot-spring resort.

4 Kurokawa Onsen Recharging in a tranquil riverside rotemburo (outdoor bath).

5 Hashima Touring the eerie, deserted 'ghost island' (aka Gunkan-jima).

6 Pottery Towns Marvelling at Japan's unique ceramics traditions in Arita, Imari and Karatsu.

7 Takachiho Gorge Rowing the gorge amid waterfalls (and hungry ducks).

8 Kumamoto-jō Seeing where the last samurai made their final stand, at this earthquake-damaged, yet still impressive, castle.

9 Nichinan Coast Surfing local breaks along the coast.

a Kagoshima Sipping sweet-potato shōchū as the Sakurajima volcano billows ash across the bay.

History

Excavations dating to around 10,000 BC indicate that southern Kyūshū was the likely entry point of the Jōmon culture, which gradually crept north.

Japan's trade with China and Korea began in Kyūshū, and the arrival of Portuguese ships in 1543 initiated Japan's at-times-thorny relationship with the West and brought on the beginning of its 'Christian Century' (1549–1650). With Christianity, the Portuguese also brought gunpowder weaponry, heralding the ultimate decline of the samurai tradition.

In 1868 rebels from Kyūshū were instrumental in carrying through the Meiji Restoration, which ended the military shogunate's policy of isolation, marking the birth of modern Japan. During the ensuing Meiji era (1868–1912), rapid industrialisation caused profound social, political and environmental change.

Sadly, this historically rich region is best known for one event – the 9 August 1945 atomic bombing of Nagasaki.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Fukuoka Airport is Japan's fourth busiest, servicing destinations in Asia and Japan. In addition to domestic connections, Ōita (the closest airport to Beppu), Kagoshima, Kumamoto, Miyazaki and Nagasaki airports all have flights to Seoul, and Kagoshima and Nagasaki airports serve Shanghai directly. Miyazaki serves Taipei, but not always daily. Many airlines offer space-available 'Visit Japan' discount fares for foreign visitors, connecting many Kyūshū airports to Tokyo and Naha (Okinawa).

Boat

There are sea connections to Kyūshū from Osaka and Okinawa. High-speed ferries shuttle between Fukuoka and Busan, in South Korea.

Train

The shinkansen (bullet train) links Shin-Osaka to Kagoshima, via Hakata Station (Fukuoka) and Kumamoto.

8Getting Around

Bus

Kyūshū's extensive highway bus system is often the most efficient and cheapest way around the island. See www.atbus-de.com for routes and reservations.

DISCOUNT BUS PASSES

There are discounted all-you-can-ride passes on JR Kyūshū and Kyūshū buses, from ¥8000/10,000 for three days in northern Kyūshū/all of Kyūshū, or a four-day all-Kyūshū Pass for ¥14,000. For further information visit www.sunqpass.jp.

Car & Motorcycle

Outside the cities, car rental is the best way to reach many of the best-preserved and least-known landscapes, particularly in rural southern and northeastern Kyūshū and around Aso-san. Car-rental agencies are conveniently located all over Kyūshū.

Train

Kyūshū shinkansen lines run north–south through western Kyūshū between Hakata and Kagoshima, and other major Kyūshū cities are connected by tokkyū (limited express) train services.

There's even an ultra-luxury Seven Stars (www.cruisetrain-sevenstars.jp; s/d 1 night from ¥480,000/600,000, 3 nights ¥950,000/1,260,000) sleeper train, with two-day/one-night or four-day/three-night trips available.

Fukuoka & Around

Fukuoka, on the northwest coast, is Kyūshū at its most urbane – and a rollicking good time. From there, to the west, the land breaks apart into numerous fingers and inlets. Here are the pottery towns of Karatsu, Imari and Arita. All the way to the west is Hirado, a small island that's big on history.

Fukuoka

%092 / Pop 1,530,000

Fukuoka (福岡) is Kyūshū's largest city (and Japan's sixth-largest) and still growing. It's made up of two former towns, the Fukuoka castle town on the west bank of the Naka-gawa and Hakata on the east. The two towns merged in 1889 as Fukuoka, though the name Hakata is still widely in use (for instance, it's Fukuoka Airport but Hakata Station).

Hakata traces its trading history back some 2000 years, which continues today with visitors from Seoul and Shanghai. Among Japanese, the city is famed for its SoftBank Hawks baseball team and hearty Hakata ramen (egg noodles).

Fukuoka's warmth and friendliness make it a great gateway to Kyūshū, and warm weather and contemporary attractions – art, architecture, shopping and cuisine – make it a good base for regional excursions.

Central Fukuoka

1Top Sights

1Fukuoka Asian Art MuseumD1

2Hakata Machiya Furusato-kanE2

1Sights

3Akarenga Bunka-kanC2

4Former Prefectural Hall & Official Guest HouseD2

5Hakata Local History MuseumE2

6Kushida-jinjaE2

7RakusuienF4

8Shōfuku-jiF1

9Tenjin Chūō-kōenC3

10Tōchō-jiF1

4Sleeping

11Dormy Inn PremiumE2

12Hotel New SimpleG2

13Kashima HonkanF1

14Nishitetsu Hotel Croom HakataG2

15Plaza Hotel PremierB3

16With the StyleG4

5Eating

17Fish ManC4

18Henry & CowellC4

19IchiranD2

20IppudōG3

21MurataE2

22Rāmen JinanbōF2

23Rāmen StadiumE3

24Tenjin NobunagaB3

25ZauoA2

6Drinking & Nightlife

26CC CafeB2

27Morris' Black SheepB3

7Shopping

28Canal CityE3

29DaimaruC3

30Hakata-ori no Sennen KōbōD1

31IMS BuildingC3

32MandarakeA3

33MaruzenG2

34mina tenjinC2

35MitsukoshiC3

36ShōgetsudōD2

37Solaria PlazaC3

38Tenjin ChikagaiB2

39Tenjin CoreC2

8Information

40ACROS FukuokaC2

41Hakata Station General Information CenterG3

42HIS TravelF3

43JR Kyūshū Travel AgencyG3

44Nishitetsu Tenjin Bus Center Tourist InformationC3

Rainbow PlazaC3

Transport

45Fukuoka Kōtsū CentreG2

46JR Hakata StationG3

47Nishitetsu Tenjin Bus TerminalC3

1Sights

For visitors, Fukuoka can be divided into three main districts. Hakata, the old shitamachi (downtown), is now dominated by Fukuoka's shinkansen stop, the busy JR Hakata Station. Three subway stops away and across the Naka-gawa is Fukuoka's beating heart, the Tenjin district, bursting with department stores, boutiques, eateries and nightlife. Above ground, Tenjin centres on Watanabe-dōri, paralleled underground by Tenjin Chikagai, a long shopping arcade with mood lighting and cast-ironwork ceilings that make it a cool refuge from the summer heat. West of Tenjin is trendy Daimyō, Fukuoka's homage to Tokyo's Harajuku, minus the crowds, heading toward Fukuoka's former castle grounds.

The coastal neighbourhoods, best reached by bus or taxi, have many attractive sights, restaurants and hotels.

Hakata

oFukuoka Asian Art MuseumMUSEUM

(福岡アジア美術館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-263-1100; http://faam.city.fukuoka.lg.jp; 7th & 8th fl, Riverain Centre Bldg, 3-1 Shimo-Kawabata-machi; adult/student ¥200/150; h10am-8pm Thu-Tue; dNakasu-Kawabata)

On the upper floors of the Hakata Riverain Centre (博多リバレイン), this large museum houses the world-renowned Asia Gallery, and additional galleries for special exhibits (admission fee varies) and artists in residence. Changing exhibits cover contemporary works from 23 countries, from East Asia to Pakistan.

oHakata Machiya Furusato-kanMUSEUM

(博多町家ふるさと館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-281-7761; www.hakatamachiya.com; 6-10 Reisen-machi; ¥200; h10am-6pm; dGion)

Spread over three machiya (traditional Japanese townhouses), this folk museum re-creates a Hakata nagare (neighbourhood unit) from the late Meiji era. The replica buildings house historical photos and displays of traditional Hakata culture, festivals, crafts and performing arts, as well as recordings (more like lessons) of impenetrable Hakata-ben (dialect). Artisans are frequently on hand offering demonstrations.

Kushida-jinjaSHINTO SHRINE

(櫛田神社 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-291-2951; 1-41 Kami-kawabata; h8am-6pm; dGion or Nakasu-Kawabata)F

The intimate Kushida-jinja, municipal Shintō shrine of Hakata, traces its history to AD 757 and sponsors the Hakata Gion Yamakasa Matsuri, in which storeys-high floats make their way through the streets. The shrine has displays of Hakata festival floats on the grounds, and there's one float visible outside for those just wanting to gawk before moving on. A one-room local history museum (博多歴史館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1-41 Kami-kawabata; ¥300; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; dGion or Nakasu-Kawabata) covers the festival, plus displays swords, ancient pottery and more.

Shōfuku-jiBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(聖福寺 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 6-1 Gokushō-machi; h24hr; dGion)

Shōfuku-ji is a Zen temple founded in 1195 by Eisai, who introduced Zen and tea to Japan; the nation's first tea plants are said to have been planted here. Note: its buildings are closed to the public, but tree-lined stone paths make a nice ramble.

Tōchō-jiBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(東長寺 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2-4 Gokushō-machi; h24hr; dGion)

Tōchō-ji has Japan's largest wooden Buddha (10.8m high, 30 tonnes, created in 1992) and some impressively carved Kannon (goddess of mercy) statues. The temple is said to date from AD 806 and to have been founded by Kūkai, founder of the Shingon school of Buddhism.

Sumiyoshi-jinjaSHINTO SHRINE

(住吉神社 GOOGLE MAP ; 2-10-7 Sumiyoshi; h24hr)

Sumiyoshi-jinja is said to be the original taisha (grand shrine) of Shintō's Sumiyoshi sect. On its north side is Rakusuien (楽水園 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.rakusuien.net; admission/tea ¥100/300; h9am-5pm Wed-Mon), a pretty garden and teahouse built by a Meiji-era merchant, which offers an outdoor tea ceremony.

WORTH A TRIP

MOJIKō & YAHATA

Kitakyūshū is at the island's far north. Its two enclaves can be a good day trip.

Mojikō (門司港) has been a port since 1889, and its harbour-side 'Retro Town' is a trove of Meiji- and Taishō-period architecture, handsome brick buildings that once housed shipping companies and customs houses, and a drawbridge for pedestrians. Check www.mojiko.info for sightseeing tips. You can walk under the Kanmon Strait via the tunnel to Shimonoseki on Honshū. A row of shops along the waterfront serves Mojikō's signature dish, yaki-curry (curry rice broiled with melted cheese on top).

Yahata (八幡) is a one-time industrial town that has cleaned up its act with inspirational results. Kitakyūshū Kankyō Museum (北九州市環境ミュージアム, Kitakyūshū Environment Museum %093-663-6751; www.eco-museum.com; 2-2-6 Higashida Yahata; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun; c) has 'radioramas' (with sound available in English) that tell of the environmental degradation of Kyūshū in the early industrial period (including the notorious Minamata disease that struck near Kumamoto in the 1950s, a poisoning caused by mercury released into Minamata Bay by a chemical factory which polluted, knowingly, for more than three decades, according to a 1968 government ruling). Interactive exhibits illustrate the effects of pollution. Steps away, the futuristic Kitakyūshū Innovation Gallery & Studio (北九州イノベーションギャラリー %093-663-5411; www.kigs.jp; 2-2-11 Higashida Yahata; h9am-7pm Tue-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun; c) offers changing special exhibits (entry fees vary, often ¥500) and an excellent chronology of technological innovation. Across the road is a towering steel foundry from 1901, now cleaned up and a great place for a bentō (boxed meal) picnic.

From Hakata, transfer at Kokura (shinkansen ¥3390, 16 minutes; tokkyū ¥1320, 40 minutes). From Kokura local trains cost ¥280 to either Mojikō (13 minutes) or Space World Station (for Yahata, 10 minutes).

Tenjin

Fukuoka-jō & Ōhori-kōenHISTORIC SITE

(福岡城・大濠公園 GOOGLE MAP ; dŌhori-kōen)

Only the walls of Fukuoka-jō (Fukuoka Castle) remain, but the castle's hilltop site (Maizuru-kōen) provides good panoramas of the city and great views of aircraft landing at nearby Fukuoka airport.

Ōhori-kōen, an expansive park and pond (once part of the castle's moat system), is adjacent to the castle grounds, and has the traditionally styled Nihon-teien (日本庭園, Japanese Garden GOOGLE MAP ; %092-741-8377; 1-7 Ōhori-kōen; adult/child ¥240/120; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun Jun-Aug, to 5pm Sep-May; dŌhori-kōen). It's a more recent construction (1984) around a pond with stone gardens and a teahouse.

Tenjin Chūō-kōenPARK

(天神中央公園 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; dNakasu-Kawabata or Tenjin)

Some attractive historic Western architecture populates this park by City Hall, most notably the French Renaissance–styled Former Prefectural Hall & Official Guest House (旧福岡県公会堂貴賓館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 6-29 Nishi-nakasu; ¥240; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun), dating from 1910 and including a cafe. A couple of blocks north, the copper-turreted Akarenga Bunka-kan (福岡市赤煉瓦文化館, Red Brick Cultural Centre MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-722-4666; 1-15-30 Tenjin; h9am-9pm Tue-Sun) was built in 1909 by the same architect who designed Tokyo Station, and now hosts simple historical exhibits.

Coastal Fukuoka

Fukuoka's northwest coast is a modern mix of corporate headquarters, hotels, large shopping and entertainment venues, and apartment blocks, easiest reached by bus from Tenjin or Hakata.

Several pretty islands are a quick ferry ride from the mainland and offer a nice day-trip diversion for those with extra time.

Fukuoka City MuseumMUSEUM

(福岡市博物館 GOOGLE MAP ; http://museum.city.fukuoka.jp; 3-1-1 Momochi-hama; ¥200; h9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun)

This smart museum displays artefacts from local history and culture. The pride of the collection is an ancient 2.3-sq-cm, 108g golden seal with an inscription proving Japan's historic ties to China.

Fukuoka TowerOBSERVATORY

(福岡タワー GOOGLE MAP ; www.fukuokatower.co.jp; 2-3-26 Momochi-hama; adult/student ¥800/500; h9.30am-10pm)

Standing above the Momochi district is the 234m-tall Fukuoka Tower, a symbol of the city and mostly hollow (its main purpose is as a broadcast tower). There's an observation deck at 123m and a cafe for soaking up the views, especially at dusk. Ask for the foreigner discount. While you're in the area, drop into Robosquare nearby.

Fukuoka Yafuoku! DomeSTADIUM

(福岡ヤフオク！ドーム GOOGLE MAP ; %092-847-1006; www.softbankhawks.co.jp/stadium; 2-2-2 Jigyohama)

This monolithic, retractable-roof stadium is the home field of Fukuoka's much-loved SoftBank Hawks baseball team. Tours (in Japanese) are offered and there's a museum of the life of Oh Sadaharu, the world's all-time home-run king (best for die-hard fans).

NokonoshimaISLAND

(能古島 GOOGLE MAP )

A 15-minute ferry ride from Fukuoka, pretty Nokonoshima mixes natural and artificial parks. The latter, popular Island Park (アイランドパーク GOOGLE MAP ; www.nokonoshima.com; adult/child ¥1000/500), has a swimming beach, seasonal wildflower fields, huts selling crafts, and sweeping ocean views. Bicycle rental (¥300/1000 per hour/day) and English maps are available at Noko Market (のこの市) by the ferry dock. Buses 300 and 301 depart frequently from Nishitetsu Tenjin bus terminal (¥360, 20 minutes) for Meinohama Municipal Ferry Port (not to be confused with Meinohama on the subway line).

ShikanoshimaISLAND

(志賀島 GOOGLE MAP )

Delightfully rural, this island has fresh seafood restaurants that line the harbour-side streets. Ferries depart hourly (¥670, 33 minutes) from Bayside Place, along with seasonal sightseeing cruises around Hakata Bay. Shikanoshima also has a fishing shrine (志賀海神社), decorated with deer antlers, and a popular beach about 5km east of the shrine. Note that the shrine requests that those in mourning, pregnant, menstruating, or with a baby 100 days old or less refrain from visiting.

zFestivals & Events

Hakata Gion Yamakasa MatsuriCULTURAL

(h1-15 Jul)

The city's main festival is held in July, climaxing at 4.59am on the 15th, when seven groups of men converge at Kushida-jinja to race along a 5km-long course carrying huge portable shrines called yamakasa. According to legend, the festival originated after a 13th-century Buddhist priest was carried aloft, sprinkling holy water over victims of a plague.

Hakata Dontaku Minato MatsuriCULTURAL

(h3-4 May)

Tracing its roots to the port festival, Fukuoka's Meiji-dōri vibrates to the percussive shock of shamoji (wooden serving spoons) being banged together like castanets, with shamisen (three-stringed banjo) accompaniment.

4Sleeping

Fukuoka is a destination for both business and pleasure, with plenty of quality accommodation at all budget levels. Stay near JR Hakata Station for convenience if railing around, although Tenjin is a better bet if you plan to spend a few days shopping and bar-hopping.

Hotel New SimpleHOTEL¥

(ホテルニューシンプル MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-411-4311; www.hotel-newsimple.jp; 1-23-11 Hakata-ekimae; dm/s/tw from ¥3900/5000/9900; aW; bGion, dHakata)

This boxy, inexpensive yet modern lodging has neat and clean dorms that sleep six people (comfortably) to 12 (tightly), while single and twin rooms have private bath. 'Family' rooms sleep up to five people at ¥3900 per person. Guests in single and twin rooms get a simple Japanese breakfast. Enter from the street across from Family Mart.

Note that the 'dorm'-style rooms are not for strangers, they're for families or groups who already know each other.

Fukuoka Backpacker's HostelHOSTEL¥

( GOOGLE MAP ; %092-404-6035; www.fukuoka-hostel.com; 11-34 Hiemachi; dm/s/tw from ¥2600/3900/5900; niW; dHakata)

This 19-room hostel offers bare-bones accommodation and a communal TV and DVDs, plus a roof deck for meeting other travellers. From Hakata Station, head down Chikushi-dōri and turn left at Hotto Motto bentō shop.

oKashima HonkanRYOKAN¥¥

(鹿島本館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-291-0746; 3-11 Reisen-machi; s/d Sun-Thu ¥3700/7000, Fri & Sat ¥4000/8000; pnaW; dGion)

This charmingly creaky, unpretentious Taishō-era ryokan is a historic landmark, pleasantly faded and focused on a small garden with a stone lantern. Oozing atmosphere, it's a great place to sample traditional Japan. The friendly owners communicate well in English. No private bathrooms, but Japanese/Western breakfasts are available for ¥865. Parking is ¥1000.

Dormy Inn PremiumBUSINESS HOTEL¥¥

(ドーミーインPremium MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-272-5489; www.hotespa.net; 9-1 Gionmachi; s/d Sun-Thu from ¥11,990/13,990, Fri & Sat from ¥21,000/22,000; pnaiW)

Rates are not the cheapest in town and rooms are pretty cramped, but that doesn't tell the whole story. The Dormy Inn has a natural onsen (hot spring) in addition to in-room showers, and rates include nightly bowls of ramen. Plus, the location next to Canal City is hard to beat. Rates rise substantially on weekends.

Plaza Hotel PremierHOTEL¥¥

(プラザホテルプルミエ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-734-7600; www.plaza-hotel.net; 1-14-13 Daimyō; s/d/tw from ¥8700/14,200/16,150; pnaiW; dTenjin or Akasaka)

Location, location and location are the main reasons to stay here in trendy Daimyō, yet business-hotel-size rooms rival far pricier properties. The night vibe on the street outside is ubercool and the ground-floor trattoria, AW Kitchen, looks like it belongs on a fashionable Tokyo side street. Check online for discount coupons.

oWith the StyleHOTEL¥¥¥

(ウィズザスタイル福岡 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-433-3900; www.withthestyle.com; 1-9-18 Hakataeki-minami; r from ¥45,200; naiW; dHakata)

We don't know what the name means, but 'style' is indeed the byword at this sleek designer hotel. You could easily imagine yourself poolside in Hollywood around the fountain courtyard. Each of the 16 rooms exude rock-star cool, all include breakfast, minibar and welcome drinks, and guests can reserve complimentary private use of the rooftop spa or penthouse bar.

Hilton Fukuoka Sea HawkHOTEL¥¥¥

(ヒルトン福岡シーホーク GOOGLE MAP ; %092-844-8111; www.hilton.com; 2-2-3 Jigyohama; s/d from ¥17,000/20,000; pnaiWs)

If you want to make an impression, you can hardly do better anywhere in Japan. The lobby restaurant of this César Pelli–designed hotel soars like its namesake bird, and at 1052 rooms, it's Asia's largest Hilton.

Nishitetsu Hotel Croom HakataHOTEL¥¥¥

(西鉄ホテルクルーム博多 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-413-5454; www.croomhakata.com; 1-17-6 Hakata-ekimae; s/d/tw from ¥12,000/19,000/24,000; naiW; dHakata)

Across from the station, this shiny, spotless 503-room hotel has decent-sized rooms but really scores points for its common baths and sauna (in addition to en-suite facilities). Visit the baths in a spiffy waffle-pattern yukata (light cotton kimono). Female-only floors are available.

5Eating

Fukuokans and non-Fukuokans alike salivate at the mention of Hakata ramen. The distinctive local version of these ubiquitous noodles is called tonkotsu rāmen, served in a hearty broth made from pork bones.

And if for some reason Hakata-style ramen doesn't satisfy you, in Canal City there's Rāmen Stadium (ラーメンスタジアム MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-282-2525; 5th fl, Canal City; ramen ¥550-1290; h11am-11pm), an entire floor of eight ramen vendors imported from the length and breadth of Japan.

oIchiranRAMEN¥

(一蘭 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-262-0433; www.ichiran.co.jp; 5-3-2 Nakasu; ramen ¥790-1200; h24hr; E; dTenjin)

Ichiran has been serving noodles for 39 years. Customers eat at individual cubicles, and fill out forms requesting precisely how they want their noodles prepared. Flavour strength, fat content, noodle tenderness, amount of special sauce and garlic content can all be regulated. An English-language request form is also available.

The corporate office/main location in Nakasu has two storeys: the upper floor has the signature individual booths the chain is known for, the ground floor is more traditional, with sit-down tables and a bar. Look for the bright green and red awning.

Rāmen JinanbōRAMEN¥

(ラーメン二男坊 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-473-5558; 2-16-4 Hakata Eki-mae; ramen ¥700-1100; h11am-midnight Mon-Sat, to 9pm Sun; dHakata)

Cosy ramen restaurant-pub that's just a few minutes from Hakata's Higashi-guchi. No frills, just thick, Fukuoka-style broth, noodles and draughts, with most of the seating at the bar. Also has a branch in Rāmen Stadium.

IppudōRAMEN¥

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-413-5088; 10th fl, JR Hakata City, 1-1 Hakata-eki-chūō-gai; ramen ¥700-800; h11am-midnight; dHakata)

This ramen chain has workmanlike and always bustling branches in Tenjin, serving the best-selling Akamaru Modern (with black sesame oil and a fragrant umami-dama, or flavour ball), Shiromaru Classic (with thin noodles) and Karaka (spicy ramen). This branch is in the JR Hakata City shopping centre.

MurataNOODLES¥

(信州そばむらた MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-291-0894; 2-9-1 Reisen-machi; soba ¥650-1100; h11.30am-9pm, closed 2nd Sun of the month; vE; dGion)

Down the street from the Hakata Machiya Furusato-kan, this lovely eatery makes homemade soba (buckwheat noodles) from the Shinshū area of central Japan (around Nagano), prepared in a variety of ways including kake-soba (in hot broth), zaru-soba (cold with dipping sauce) and oroshi-soba (cold, topped with grated daikon).

oZauoSEAFOOD¥¥

(ざうお MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-716-9988; www.zauo.com; 1-4-15 Nagahama; catch your own fish ¥3600-4000; h5-11pm Mon-Fri, 11.30am-11pm Sat & Sun; pc; dAkasaka)

Staff equip you with fishing rods, bait and nets to fish your own tai (sea bream), hirame (flounder) and more, from tanks surrounding tables on boat-shaped platforms. When you catch something, they'll bang drums before taking the fish away to prepare to your taste: sashimi, grilled, fried etc. Kitschy, but fun. There are other izakaya-style dishes if fish isn't your thing.

oFish ManIZAKAYA¥¥

(魚男フィッシュマン, Sakana Otoko MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-717-3571; 1-4-23 Imaizumi; set meals ¥680-1500; h11.30am-3pm & 5.30pm-1am; dTenjin-minami)

Fish Man's post-industrial vibe has lacquered plywood and big windows, which show off the unconventional presentations of seafood fresh from the Nagahama market across town: kaidan-zushi (sushi served on a wooden spiral staircase), tsubotai no misoyaki (miso-grilled snapper) or a maguro hamburger served on a steel plate.

There's no English menu, but English-speaking staff can help explain. Look for the banner outside reading 'No Fish, No Life'.

Afterwards, stop for dessert at Fish Man's adorable affiliated cake shop Henry & Cowell ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-741-7888; 1-3-11 Imaizumi; cakes ¥945-1260; h11am-9pm), just down the street. It also has a small selection of takeaway foods.

Tenjin NobunagaYAKITORI¥¥

(天神信長 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-721-6940; 2-6-21 Tenjin; skewers ¥110-265; h5pm-1am Mon-Sun; dTenjin)

Nobunaga is raucous and rowdy, and that's just the chefs. There's no English menu, but it's easy to choose from the skewers behind the counter. Another house speciality is potato-mochiage (¥420), a fried dumpling of mashed potato, cheese and mochi (pounded rice). Look for the red lanterns just to the right of Big Echo karaoke hall.

No No BudoBUFFET¥¥

(野の葡萄 GOOGLE MAP ; %092-714-1441; IMS Bldg, 1-7-11 Tenjin; lunch/dinner ¥1680/2200; h11am-4pm & 5-11pm; dTenjin)

The IMS Building (天神イムズ) has prime skyline views from its 12th- and 13th-floor restaurants, including No No Budo. The busy self-serve gourmet buffet has good-for-you Japanese and Western fish and meat dishes, noodles, salads, soups and nice pastries. An extra ¥1300 buys all-you-can-drink beer, wine and cocktails.

Sushikō HontenSUSHI¥¥

(すし幸本店 GOOGLE MAP ; %092-761-1659; 2-11-18 Minatomachi; meals ¥1050-3150; h11am-10pm; dŌhori-kōen)

Sushi here can be two completely different experiences: elegant and dignified on the 2nd floor, or served together with other dishes in a rollicking upstairs beer garden that's open year-round for dinner only and covered in inclement weather (all you can eat and drink for women/men from ¥2500/3150).

DON'T MISS

FUKUOKA'S STREET FOOD

The Fukuoka way to eat is at yatai (屋台), mobile hawker-style food carts with simple counters and seats; Fukuoka claims about 150 yatai, more than in the rest of Japan combined! Let the aromas and chatty conversation lead you to the best cooking and the best companions. For a more local experience, try the yatai around Tenjin or Nagahama. Get there early as most seats are soon taken. (Note that if you talk too much without ordering enough you'll be asked to move on.)

6Drinking & Nightlife

The weekend starts on Thursday in multicultural, party-friendly Fukuoka. The streets of Tenjin and Daimyō are safe, easy to explore and great for people-watching. The main drag, Oyafuko-dōri, roughly translates to 'street of unruly children' because of the cram schools that once lined it. In a way, the cap still fits. Nakasu Island, while one of Japan's busiest entertainment districts, is often sleazy.

Morris' Black SheepBAR

(モーリスブラックシープ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-725-8773; 2-1-20 Daimyō; h5pm-1am)

This Morris bar is just down the street from its Red Fox cousin. It's often packed, loud and fun, and may open even later on Friday and Saturday nights, depending on numbers.

Morris' Red FoxPUB

(モーリスレッドフォックス GOOGLE MAP ; %092-771-4774; 7th fl, Stage 1 Nishidōri Bldg, 2-1-4 Daimyō; h5pm-1am; dTenjin)S

One of the better pub chains in Japan, this bar attracts a nice mix of Japanese and gaijin (foreigners). Begin your evening with happy-hour cocktails (¥250; 5pm to 7pm) on the awesome patio perched high above trendy Daimyō. There's a good beer selection and tasty pub food.

CC CafeBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-791-5444; www.cccafe.jimdo.com; 3-5-15 Tenjin; h7pm-3am)

This cosy pub hosts a friendly mix of English-interested locals and expats, and doubles in the day as an English-language learning centre, with classes and some international events.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

PUB CRAWLS

Hosted by the affable James Taylor (er, not the musician!), BPC Fukuoka (www.facebook.com/bpcfukuoka) runs pub crawls around the city's popular bars and clubs. They also host dinner parties. Visit the Facebook page for meeting locations for upcoming events.

3Entertainment

Kyūshū Bashō Sumo TournamentSPECTATOR SPORT

Held over two weeks at the Fukuoka Kokusai Centre during mid-November. Spectators start lining up at dawn for limited same-day tickets (tōjitsu-ken; ¥3400 to ¥15,000).

7Shopping

Fukuoka's department stores occupy a three-block gauntlet of Watanabe-dōri in Tenjin. Tenjin Core (天神コア MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-721-8436), Mitsukoshi (三越 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-724-3111), Daimaru (大丸 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-712-8181), Solaria Plaza (ソラリアプラザ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-733-7777), the IMS Building (天神イムズ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-733-2001; Tenjin 1-7-11) and mina tenjin (ミーナ天神 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-713-3711) are all favourites, as is the subterranean Tenjin Chikagai (天神地下街 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-711-1903; W).

For contemporary fashion, low-rise boutiques in the Daimyō district show off local designers; lining Keyaki-dōri are intimate shops for antiques, design items and foreign crafts.

Hakata-ori no Sennen KōbōCLOTHING

(博多織の千年工房 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-283-8111; B1 fl, Hakata Riverain, 3-1 Shimo-Kawabata-machi; h10.30am-7.30pm; dNakasu-Kawabata)

Hakata is renowned for its weaving tradition, called Hakata-ori, and this elegant shop offers obis, kimonos and accessories from business-card holders to handbags in the distinctive style. None of it is cheap (silk obi start at around ¥10,000), but it's meant to last generations. Hakata-ori is also available at Tenjin's department stores.

ShōgetsudōARTS & CRAFTS

(松月堂 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-291-4141; 5-1-22 Nakasu; h9am-7pm; dNakasu-Kawabata)

White-faced clay Hakata ningyō (Hakata dolls) depicting women, children, samurai and geisha are a popular Fukuoka craft. This place sells them and also offers painting workshops (¥1575 to ¥3150).

MandarakeBOOKS

(まんだらけ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-716-7774; 2-9-5 Daimyō; hnoon-8pm; dTenjin)

The Fukuoka branch of Mandarake is Kyūshū's largest manga store, with several storeys of games, comic books and DVDs.

RobosquareELECTRONICS

(ロボスクエアー GOOGLE MAP ; %092-821-4100; http://robosquare.city.fukuoka.lg.jp; 2nd fl, TNC Bldg, 2-3-2 Momochihama; h9.30am-6pm, closed 2nd Wed of the month; bNishijin)

Near Fukuoka Tower, Robosquare sells robotics and salutes all things cyborg with demonstrations, robot performances and small exhibits of current technology. The latest Roomba, drones, and other hands-on demos are fun. Wilder exhibits are the crib-rocker robot and a robotic seal.

MaruzenBOOKS

(丸善 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 8th fl, Hakata Station Bldg, Hakata-eki; h10am-9pm; dHakata)

Maruzen has a huge selection of Japanese- and English-language books, magazines and DVDs.

Canal CitySHOPPING CENTRE

(キャナルシティ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.canalcity.co.jp; 1-2 Sumiyoshi; hshops 10am-9pm, restaurants 11am-11pm)

Canal City shopping centre is Fukuoka's biggest mall, boasting an eponymous artificial canal with illuminated fountain symphony, hotels, a multiplex cinema, a playhouse and about 250 boutiques, bars and bistros. It was designed by Jon Jerde, who later created Tokyo's Roppongi Hills.

8Information

Internet Access

Fukuoka is refreshingly wired, with free public wi-fi available at city hall, major train and subway stations, the airport, tourist information centres and in the Tenjin Chikagai (underground arcade).

Medical Services

International Clinic Tojin-machi ( GOOGLE MAP ; %092-717-1000; www.internationalclinic.org; 1-4-6 Jigyo; h9am-1pm & 2.20-6pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, 9am-1pm Sat; dTōjin-machi, Exit 1) Multilingual clinic for general medical services and emergencies. It's two blocks from the station.

Tourist Information

AFukuoka City Tourist Information Counters (福岡市観光案内所) at Fukuoka Airport, Hakata Station (福岡市観光案内所JR博多駅支店 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-431-3003; h8am-9pm) and Nishitetsu Tenjin Bus Center (福岡市観光案内所天神支店 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-751-6904; h10am-6.30pm) dispense maps, coupons and the helpful City Visitor's Guide, and can help with lodging, transport and car rental information. Information centres at ACROS Fukuoka (アクロス福岡 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-725-9100; www.acros.or.jp/r_facilities/information.html; Cultural Information Centre, 2nd fl, ACROS Bldg, 1-1-1 Tenjin; h10am-6pm; dNakasu-Kawabata or Tenjin) and Rainbow Plaza (レインボープラザ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-733-2220; www.rainbowfia.or.jp; 8F, IMS Bldg, 1-7-11 Tenjin; h10am-8pm, closed 3rd Tue of the month; W) are targeted mostly at foreign residents.

Fukuoka Now (www.fukuoka-now.com) is an indispensable monthly English-language street mag with detailed city maps.

Yokanavi.com (www.yokanavi.com) is a comprehensive Fukuoka/Hakata tourist information site.

Travel Agencies

HIS Travel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-415-6121; www.his-j.com; 4th fl, Yodobashi Hakata Bldg, 6-12 Chūō-gai; h10am-8.30pm; dHakata) Discount international and domestic arrangements can be made at the Hakata branch of this international chain.

JR Kyūshū Travel Agency ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-431-6215; 1-1 Chuo-gai; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun; dHakata) Provides bookings and advice for travel within Kyūshū and Japan. Located within JR Hakata Station.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Fukuoka Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %domestic terminal 092-621-6059, international terminal 092-621-0303; hdomestic 6.20am-10.20pm, international 7am-9.30pm; dFukuoka Airport) is an international hub serving carriers from east and Southeast Asia, as well as many domestic routes including Tokyo (from Haneda/Narita airports), Osaka and Okinawa (Naha).

Cut-rate carrier Skymark (%in Tokyo 0570-051-330; www.skymark.co.jp) flies to Haneda Airport.

Boat

Ferries from Hakata connect to Okinawa and other islands off Kyūshū. Beetle high-speed hydrofoils connect Fukuoka with Busan in Korea (one way/return ¥13,000/26,000, three hours, twice daily). The Camellia line has a regular ferry service from Fukuoka to Busan (one way/return ¥9000/17,100, 5½ hours, daily at 12.30pm). Both ships dock at Chūō Futō at Hakata Port International Terminal – reach it via bus 88 from JR Hakata Station (¥230) or bus 80 from Tenjin (Solaria Stage-mae; ¥190).

Bus

Long-distance buses (%ask operator for English interpreter 0570-00-1010) depart from the Fukuoka Kōtsū Centre (福岡交通センター MAP GOOGLE MAP ) next to JR Hakata Station (Hakata-gate) and also from the Nishitetsu Tenjin Bus Terminal (西鉄天神バスセンター MAP GOOGLE MAP ). Destinations include Tokyo (economy/business ¥8300/12,000, 14½ hours), Osaka (from ¥8800, 10½ hours), Nagoya (¥7500, 11 hours) and many towns in Kyūshū; ask about discounted round-trip fares.

Train

JR Hakata Station (JR博多駅 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092-471-8111, English info line 03-3423-0111) is a hub in northern Kyūshū. Shinkansen services operate to/from Tokyo (¥21,810, five hours), Shin-Osaka (¥14,480, 2½ hours), Hiroshima (¥8420, 62 minutes), Kumamoto (¥4610, 37 minutes) and Kagoshima-Chūō (¥9930, 84 minutes).

Within Kyūshū, non-shinkansen trains run on the JR Nippō line through Beppu to Miyazaki; the Sasebo line runs from Saga to Sasebo; and the Nagasaki line runs to Nagasaki. You can also travel by subway and JR train to Karatsu and continue to Nagasaki by train.

8Getting Around

To/From the Airport

It's just five minutes on the subway from the airport to JR Hakata Station (¥260) and 11 minutes to Tenjin (¥260). Shuttle buses connect domestic and international terminals.

Taxis from the airport cost around ¥1600 to Tenjin/Hakata.

Bus

City bus services operate from the Fukuoka Kōtsū Centre adjacent to JR Hakata Station and from the Nishitetsu Tenjin Bus Terminal. Many stop in front of the station (Hakata-guchi). Specially marked buses have a flat ¥100 rate for city-centre rides, or one-day passes cost ¥900.

Subway

Fukuoka has three subway lines (http://subway.city.fukuoka.lg.jp; open from 5.30am to 12.25am), of which visitors will find the Kūkō (Airport) line most useful, running from Fukuoka Airport to Meinohama Station via Hakata, Nakasu-Kawabata and Tenjin stations. Fares start at ¥200; a one-day pass costs ¥620/310 per adult/child.

WORTH A TRIP

TACHIARAI

From 1919 to 1945, the isolated farm village of Tachiarai (大刀洗) hosted a training school for Japanese fighter pilots, including some on kamikaze suicide missions. Expanded in 2009, Tachiarai Heiwa Kinenkan (大刀洗平和記念館, Tachiarai Peace Memorial Museum %0946-23-1227; www.tachiarai-heiwa.jp; ¥500; h9am-5pm) shows the rigorous training these men endured. English signage is basic, but the museum's artefacts are evocative (uniforms, medals, gold-plated sake cups etc). The centrepiece is a jet fighter shot down during the war and recovered from Hakata Bay in 1996. The museum also memorialises kamikaze pilots and townspeople who died during a USAF B-29 bombing on 27 March 1945.

The museum is across from Tachiarai Station. From Fukuoka, take the Nishitetsu line to Nishitetsu Ogōri (¥510, 30 minutes); from Dazaifu (¥340) it takes 25 minutes plus transfer time at Nishitetsu Futsukaichi. Then walk to Ogōri Station on the Amagi Railway for the trip to Tachiarai (¥290, 15 minutes). JR passengers can transfer to the Amagi Railway at Kiyama (¥340, 20 minutes).

Dazaifu 太宰府

%092 / Pop 72,000

Dazaifu (太宰府), former governmental centre of Kyūshū, has a beautiful cluster of temples, a famous shrine and a striking national museum, making for a popular day trip from Fukuoka.

1Sights

oKyūshū National MuseumMUSEUM

(九州国立博物館 %092-918-2807; www.kyuhaku.com; 4-7-2 Ishizaka; adult/student ¥430/130; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun)

Built into the tranquil hills of Dazaifu and reached through more escalators than the average airport, this striking structure (built in 2005) resembles a massive space station for the arts. One of the best (if not the best) and biggest collections of art in Kyūshū, this is a must-see for art aficionados.

Highlights include a fascinating exhibit of the relationship between Japanese arts and culture and those of the rest of Asia, varying special exhibits, pottery, and a wonderful 'please touch' section for the youngest visitors.

oTenman-gūSHINTO SHRINE

(太宰府天満宮 www.dazaifutenmangu.or.jp; 4-7-1 Saifu; h6.30am-7pm)

Poet-scholar Sugawara-no-Michizane was a distinguished Kyoto figure until his exile to distant Dazaifu, where he died two years later. He became deified as Tenman Tenjin, god of culture and scholars. Among the countless visitors to the grand, sprawling Tenman-gū, his shrine and burial place, are students hoping to pass college entrance exams. The hondō (main hall) was rebuilt in 1591.

Behind the shrine is the Kankō Historical Museum (菅公歴史館 %092-922-8225; ¥200; h9am-4.30pm Thu-Mon), with dioramas showing Tenjin's life (an English leaflet provides explanations). Across the grounds, the Daizifu Tenman-gū Museum (太宰府天満宮宝物殿 ¥400; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun) has artefacts from his life, including some excellent swords. This is a near-mandatory stop on the bus-tour route, so expect to see swarms of people even on weekdays.

Kōmyōzen-jiBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(光明禅寺 %092-922-4053; 2-16-1 Saifu; ¥200; h8am-4.30pm)

Secreted away on the southern edge of Dazaifu, this small temple has an exquisite jewel of a Zen garden. It's a peaceful contrast to the crowds at the nearby shrine.

Kaidan-inMONASTERY

(戒壇院 )

Nestled among rice paddies and reachable by bus (¥100), Kaidan-in dates from 761 and was one of the most important Buddhist ordination monasteries in Japan.

Kanzeon-jiBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(観世音寺 %092-921-2121)F

Adjacent to Kaidan-in, this temple dates from 746, but only the great bell (said to be Japan's oldest) remains from the original construction. Its Exhibition Hall (宝蔵 %092-922-1811; ¥500; h9am-5pm) has an impressive collection of statuary, most of it wood, dating from the 10th to 12th centuries. Many of the items show Indian or Tibetan influence.

Dazaifu Exhibition HallMUSEUM

(大宰府展示館 %092-922-7811; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun)F

Dazaifu Exhibition Hall displays finds from local archaeological excavations. Nearby are the Tofurō ruins (都府楼) of ancient government buildings.

DON'T MISS

HIKING HOT SPOTS

Hikers will discover that Kyūshū boasts some of Japan's most awe-inspiring treks. Nearly every prefecture has great getaways. Below are some top spots, several of which follow still-active volcanoes, making for jaw-droppingly awesome vistas…and sometimes requiring special precautions, too. (Note that at the time of writing, Aso-san routes were closed, for volcanic-damage reasons, but may open at any time.) Also look for the Kyūshū Olle brochure, available in many tourist booths, for trekking routes through towns and trails.

AKirishima-yaku National Park, Kagoshima

AUnzen, Nagasaki

AHirado, Nagasaki

AKaimon-dake, Kagoshima

AKujū-san, Ōita

5Eating

The main street between the station and the temple has over 40 stores all selling the local meibutsu (speciality) – in this case, it's umegaemochi, a sweet-bean-paste-filled cake with toasted mochi rice on the outside. The products bear a plum-branch insignia, symbolising the branch of blossoms given to distinguished poet-scholar Sugawara-no-Michizane to 'cheer him up' during his Dazaifu exile.

oSaifu UdonNOODLES¥

(さいふうどん %092-922-0573; 3-4-31 Saifu; h11am-4pm Wed-Mon)

Handmade udon noodles are so sought-after here that this tiny eight-seat shop closes whenever it runs out. Plan on arriving early and you may need to wait for your turn at the table. The reward is a bowl of broth and noodles that are as fresh and tasty as handmade food can be. If it's warm, additional outdoor seating is opened up.

KasanoyaCAFE¥

(かさの家 %092-222-1010; www.kasanoya.com; 2-7-24 Zaifu; meals ¥750-1080; h9am-5.30pm; dNishi-tetsu Dazaifu)

The best reason to come here is to grab some of the best umegaemochi this street has to offer (five for ¥600), assuming you're willing to wait in line. You can eat here, too – either set menus or items à la carte. From the station, it's on your right as you head toward the temple, just after you pass the second torii (shrine gate).

8Information

Tourist Information Office (太宰府市観光案内所 %092-925-1880; h9am-5pm) Inside Nishitetsu Dazaifu Station; has helpful staff and an English-language map.

8Getting There & Around

The private Nishitetsu train line connects Nishitetsu Fukuoka (in Tenjin) with Dazaifu (¥400, 30 minutes). Change trains at Nishitetsu Futsukaichi Station. A bus to Dazaifu leaves from JR Hakata station (¥600, 40 minutes) and the Fukuoka Airport (¥500, 25 minutes).

Bicycles can be rented for ¥500 per day at Nishitetsu Dazaifu Station (9am to 6pm). Electric bikes cost ¥800 per day.

Karatsu 唐津

%0955 / Pop 125,200

Karatsu (唐津) is at the base of the scenic Higashi-Matsuura Peninsula, an ideal location for its historic pottery trade. Korean influences elevated the town's craft from useful ceramics to art.

In Karatsu, pottery fanatics will be in their element, viewing earth-toned vases and tea bowls that sell for more than a luxury car. For everyone else, there's a hilltop castle, historic buildings, a simple Shōwa-era town centre and a pretty seaside cycling trail. Outside of town, the coastline, pounded into shape by the roiling Sea of Genkai, makes for dramatic vistas and pleasant day hikes.

The Nakamachi shopping area, a five-minute walk from Karatsu Station, offers good restaurants and souvenir shops, all within an easy stroll.

WORTH A TRIP

YOBUKO

A colourful morning market (朝市 %095-582-3426; Sasaichi-dōri, Yobuko; h7.30am-11am) for squid, fish and produce animates the quaint, dwindling fishing port of Yobuko (呼子) each day, drawing visitors from all over the region. At the far end of the market is the Nakao Mansion (中尾家屋敷 %095-582-0309; Yobuko 3750-3; adult/child ¥200/100; h9am-5pm Thu-Tue), opened in 2011, the painstakingly refurbished home and processing house of a whaling family. It's filled with historical exhibits explained in English and excellent architectural details; whales were hunted in nearby waters until 1877.

Buses (¥750, 30 minutes) connect from Karatsu's Ōteguchi Bus Centre.

An overnight stay at one of the ryokan across the road from the waterfront (from around ¥15,000 per person including meals) will allow you to watch the flickering lights of fishing boats heading out to sea.

1Sights

It's about a 25-minute walk from JR Karatsu Station to the sea. Ceramic shops are dotted around town, along with kilns and studios where you can see local potters at work.

A walking and cycling path cuts through the pine trees planted behind the 5km-long Niji-no Matsubara Beach.

oKaratsu-jōCASTLE

(唐津城 GOOGLE MAP ; 8-1 Higashi-jōnai; adult/child ¥410/200; h9am-6pm Jul & Aug, to 5pm Sep-Jun)

This 1608 castle (rebuilt 1966) is picturesquely perched on a hill overlooking the sea, and houses antique ceramics, samurai armour and archaeological displays. It's a formidable sight even from the outside. To avoid the climb through the park, Maizuru-kōen, take the outdoor elevator (¥100/50 per adult/child).

Even if you opt to not go inside, the views from the castle grounds are breathtaking: Meinohama Bay and the town of Karatsu lie below, making it easy to see why the location was such prime real estate for the shogun centuries ago.

Kyū-Takatori-teiHISTORIC BUILDING

(旧高取邸 GOOGLE MAP ; 5-40 Kita-jōnai; adult/child ¥510/260; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun)

This fabulously restored late Meiji Period villa of a local trader is built in a mix of Japanese and Western styles, with lantern-filled gardens, a Buddhist altar room, a wealth of paintings on cedar boards and an indoor nō stage. English audioguide available (¥300).

Nakazato TarōemonMUSEUM

(中里太郎右衛門 GOOGLE MAP ; %095-572-8171; www.nakazato-tarouemon.com; 3-6-29 Chōda; h9am-5.30pm Thu-Tue)F

This kiln-gallery is dedicated to the life and work of potter Nakazato Tarōemon (1923–2009), who was responsible for the revival of Karatsu ware. His work is in the inner gallery.

Hikiyama Festival Float Exhibition HallMUSEUM

(曳山展示場 GOOGLE MAP ; %0955-72-8278; 6-33 Nishi-jōnai; ¥300; h9am-5pm)

This museum contains the 14 amazing floats used in the annual Karatsu Kunchi Matsuri. Floats include the Aka-jishi (Red Lion, constructed 1819), samurai helmets, and the auspicious phoenix and sea bream. There's good signage in English and a video shows festival scenes. It's near scenic Karatsu-jinja, the shrine that sponsors the festival.

Karatsu Ware Federation Exhibition HallGALLERY

(唐津焼総合展示場 GOOGLE MAP ; %0955-73-4888; 2nd fl, Arpino Bldg; h9am-6pm)F

Adjacent to Karatsu Station, this exhibition hall displays and sells local potters' works, with prices ranging from ¥500 to I-can't-believe-someone-would-pay-THAT-much-for-THAT! Potters have a display area and many have (Japanese only) info.

Karatsu-jinjaSHINTO SHRINE

(唐津神社 GOOGLE MAP ; 3-13 Minami-jōnai)

Scenic shrine that sponsors the Karatsu Kunchi Matsuri festival.

zFestivals & Events

Karatsu Kunchi MatsuriCULTURAL

(唐津くんち祭り h2-4 Nov)

Karatsu comes to life with this spectacular festival, dating from 1592 and designated a festival of national cultural importance. The highlight is a parade of massive, exquisitely decorated hikiyama (floats).

Doyō-yoichiFOOD & DRINK

(土曜夜市 %095-572-9114; hlate Jul-early Aug)

This food festival and market is held in the town centre over four consecutive Saturdays from late July into early August, ending when Obon starts.

4Sleeping & Eating

Quiet Karatsu's sleeping options are limited mainly to business hotels and high-end ryokan that cater to ceramics buyers here to drop hundreds (or thousands!) on pottery.

Karatsu Dai-Ichi HotelHOTEL¥¥

(唐津第一ホテル GOOGLE MAP ; %0955-74-1000; www.kugimoto.co.jp; 488-1 Nishi-Teramachi; s/d/tw from ¥7000/11,000/12,000; pnaiW)

Seven minutes on foot from Karatsu Station, this hotel doesn't win style points, but has clean rooms and friendly, accommodating staff. Some singles are nonsmoking. Rates include a decent breakfast buffet with both Western and Japanese options.

Karatsu Dai Ichi Hotel RiviereHOTEL¥¥

(唐津第一ホテルリベール GOOGLE MAP ; %0955-75-2000; www.kugimoto.co.jp; 1-9 Higashi-machi; s/d/tw ¥7000/11,000/13,000; pnaiW)

Sister to the Karatsu Dai Ichi, the Dai Ichi Riviere lives up to its name: situated on the banks of the Matsuura-gawa, the hotel has lovely views of the water and castle, a nice onsen bath (with great views as well), and the same ample breakfast catering to both Western and Japanese diners.

oYōyōkakuRYOKAN¥¥¥

(洋々閣 GOOGLE MAP ; %0955-72-7181; www.yoyokaku.com; 2-4-40 Higashi-Karatsu; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥18,360; paiW)

In a word: gorgeous. Also: rambling and minimalist, with 100-year-old woodwork, a pine garden and Karatsu-yaki pottery for your in-room seafood meals. Koi swim lazily in the immaculate 200-year-old garden. This property is a real getaway, yet it's less than a 10-minute walk from the castle. If you can't stump up to stay here, visit the on-site gallery of Nakazato family pottery.

Karatsu BāgāBURGERS¥

(からつバーガー GOOGLE MAP ; %090-6299-0141; burgers ¥310-490; h9am-8pm)

In the middle of nowhere (in a parking lot) in Niji no Matsubara is a brown-and-white Toyota serving burgers so famous people line up to buy them, and have for decades. The 'Special' is the most popular: a steaming cheeseburger topped with a fried egg and a ham slice. There's also an alternate branch in Nakamachi (からつバーガー GOOGLE MAP ; %080-9101-6912; 1513-18 Nakamachi; burgers ¥340-460; h9am-8pm; dKaratsu), near Karatsu station.

oKawashima TōfuTOFU¥¥¥

(川島豆腐店 GOOGLE MAP ; %0955-72-2423; www.zarudoufu.co.jp; Kyōmachi 1775; set meals lunch ¥1500-3500, dinner ¥7000-13,000; h8am-10pm, meal seatings 8am, 10am, noon, 2pm & 5.30pm)

On the shopping street near the station, this renowned tofu shop has been in business since the Edo period and serves set meals starring tofu, plus other seasonal specialities, around the 10-seat counter in a jewel box of a back room. Soft, warm, fresh – this is tofu as good as it gets. There's also frozen tofu 'soft cream' for ¥300. Reservations are necessary.

Indeed, reservations are essential – don't be surprised by a curt response if you turn up without a booking.

8Information

Tourist Information Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0955-72-4963; 2935-1 Shinkomachi; h9am-6pm) Inside JR Karatsu Station; has a selection of English-language tourist maps and brochures, and some enthusiastic English-speaking staff who can book accommodation or show points of interest on the map. It's well worth stopping here before heading into the town.

8Getting There & Around

From Fukuoka, take the Kūkō (Airport) subway line from Hakata or Tenjin to the end of the line at Meinohama. Many trains continue directly (or you may need to switch) to the JR Chikuhi line to reach Karatsu (¥1140, 70 minutes). From Karatsu to Nagasaki (¥3710, three hours) take the JR Karatsu line to Saga, and the Kamome tokkyū on the JR Nagasaki line from there.

From Karatsu's Ōteguchi Bus Centre (大手口バスセンター GOOGLE MAP ; %0955-73-7511), highway buses depart for Fukuoka (¥1030, 70 minutes) and Yobuko (¥750, 30 minutes).

At the Arpino (アルピノ GOOGLE MAP ; %0955-75-5155; www.karatsu-arpino.com; 2881-1 Shinkomachi) building, next to the station, you can rent bicycles (free) with your passport on the 1st floor; the station no longer rents bicycles.

Imari 伊万里

%0955 / Pop 55,300

You can tell you're getting close to Imari (伊万里) by the blue and white tiles that start appearing everywhere: street signs, bridge totems, even crushed gravel has shards of Imari's signature blue and white. The town proper lies near the border of Nagasaki Prefecture.

Imari is best enjoyed as a day trip from Karatsu.

1Sights

oŌkawachiyamaVILLAGE

(大川内山 )

The area's renowned pottery kilns are concentrated in photogenic Ōkawachiyama, a 15-minute bus ride from the station. Around 30 workshops and public galleries make for a lovely ramble uphill alongside streams, cafes and a stunning bridge covered with local Imari-ware shards. Arrive by noon to allow for exploring and shopping.

Imari City Ceramic Merchant's MuseumMUSEUM

(伊万里市陶器商家資料館 %0955-22-7934; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)F

In Imari town near the river, this museum houses some priceless pieces of Koimari (as old Imari ware is known) from the 18th and 19th centuries, inside the handsomely preserved home of a merchant family.

4Sleeping & Eating

There are a few local eateries near the station.

Central Hotel ImariHOTEL¥

(セントラルホテル伊万里 %095-522-0880; www.central-imari.jp; 549-17 Hamanoura; s/d incl breakfast from ¥5900/9600; naW)

Clean and convenient hotel just a minute's walk from Imari JR Station. The hotel has rental bikes available and some nonsmoking rooms.

KippōTEMPURA¥¥

(天ぷらの吉峰 %0955-23-3563; 196 Tatemachi; lunch set menus ¥1000-2000; h11am-2pm & 5-9pm Thu-Tue)

A few hundred metres from the Imari Station area, this family-run place serves up super-fresh tempura, some on Imari-ware dishes. No English is spoken, so just say 'setto o kudasai' (set menu please).

8Information

Imari City Information (伊万里市観光協会 %0955-23-3479; h9am-6pm) Tourist brochures are available from this outlet on the regional Matsūra Railway, across the street from JR Imari Station.

8Getting There & Around

Imari is connected to Karatsu (¥650, 50 minutes) by the JR Chikuhi line or bus (¥1030, 60 minutes), and also to Arita by the private Matsūra-tetsudō line (¥460, 25 minutes).

Five to six buses per day (¥170) make the trip to Ōkawachiyama. Alternatively, the taxi fare is approximately ¥1800 each way.

DON'T MISS

KYūSHū'S BEST ONSEN

AIbusuki Sunamushi Kaikan Saraku Beachside sand bath in far-south Kagoshima.

ATakegawara Onsen Hot and historical onsen unchanged by time.

AShitan-yu Atmospheric waters in quiet Yufuin.

AKirishima-Yaku National Park Sulphurous beauty in the shadow of the Takachiho range.

ATakeo Onsen Ancient onsen with private baths.

Hirado 平戸

%0950 / Pop 32,000

The tragic irony of sweet, off-the-beaten-path Hirado (平戸) is that it was once the spot where foreigners visited Japan before sakoku (isolationism) and Dejima island. As trains, then planes, surpassed ships as the main entry to Japan, Hirado has been all but forgotten, especially since the town lies off a private, non-JR rail line.

This secluded yet lovely little island has many reminders of early Western involvement, particularly of Kakure Kirishitan (hidden Christians) who populated this region. It's also a popular beach getaway and has a lovely old-style shopping street, great seafood, a castle and wonderful museums.

1Sights

oOranda ShōkanHISTORIC BUILDING

(オランダ商館 %0950-26-0636; 2477 Ōkubo; ¥300; h8.30am-5.30pm, closed 3rd Tue, Wed & Thu of Jun)

Across from the waterfront, this building was the trading house of the Dutch East India Company. Shogunal authorities took the Gregorian date on the front of the building (1639) as proof of forbidden Christianity, ordered it destroyed and used it to justify confining Dutch traders to Dejima. It has been rebuilt according to the original plans and now houses displays of the textiles, pewter ware, gin and pottery once traded.

oJi-in to Kyōkai no Mieru MichiAREA

(寺院と教会の見える道, Street for Viewing Temples & a Church )

This street, rising up a steep hill from town, is one of the most photogenic vantage points in all of Kyūshū. The Buddhist temples and large Christian church are testimony to the island's history.

Matsūra Historical MuseumMUSEUM

(松浦史料博物館 %0950-22-2236; www.matsura.or.jp; 12 Kagamigawa-chō; ¥510; h8.30am-5.30pm)

Across the bay from the tourist centre, this museum is housed in the stunning residence of the Matsūra clan, who ruled the island from the 11th to the 19th centuries. You'll find armour that you can don to pose for photos; byōbu (folding screen) paintings; and the thatched-roof Kanun-tei, a chanoyu (tea ceremony) house for the unusual Chinshin-ryū warrior-style tea ceremony (¥500) that is still practised on the island.

If you can get here on a sunny day, be sure to participate in the tea ceremony offered between 9.30am and 5pm. Clothed in a traditional kimono, you'll partake in a tea service very similar to those served when this custom was first brought to Japan from China centuries ago. Along with the tea, old-style Hirado sweets are also provided.

Hirado Christian MuseumMUSEUM

(平戸切支丹資料館 %0950-28-0176; Ōnowakimachi 1502-1; ¥200; h9am-5.30pm Thu-Tue)

Across the middle of the island, this small museum displays items including a Maria-Kannon statue that the hidden Christians used in place of the Virgin Mary.

Hirado-jōCASTLE

(平戸城 %0950-22-2201; 1458 Iwanoue-chō; ¥510; h8.30am-5.30pm)

Hirado-jō presides over the town, with an enormous number of rebuilt structures. Inside you'll see traditional armour and clothing, and photos and models of old Hirado.

2Activities

Kawachi PassHIKING

(川内峠 )

West of central Hirado, this series of grassy hilltops offers views of both sides of the island – east toward the Japanese mainland and west toward the East China Sea – and above the tiny islands that populate the waters. Paths are lined with eulalia and azaleas, and the occasional condor flies overhead.

Cape ShijikiBEACH

(c)

From Hirado, it's about a 40km (one-hour) drive to the island's southern tip at Cape Shijiki, from where there are views of the Gotō-rettō archipelago. Hotel Ranpū is en route for those needing to overnight.

Long Neshiko Beach on Hirado's lovely west coast is popular for swimming. Jellyfish are common, so heed warnings.

zFestivals & Events

Jangara MatsuriCULTURAL

(ジャンガラ祭り h18 Aug)

Hirado's famous Jangara Matsuri folk festival is particularly colourful, reminiscent of Okinawa or Korea. Arrive in Hirado by late morning for the afternoon events.

Okunchi MatsuriCULTURAL

(平戸おくんち祭り h24-27 Oct)

The Okunchi Matsuri has dragon and lion dancing at Kameoka-jinja.

4Sleeping & Eating

Inomoto RyokanMINSHUKU¥¥

(井元旅館 %095-022-2719; 873 Sakigata-cho; s/d ¥3900/7000; a)

Spartan but clean and cheap, Inomoto Ryokan is also in a perfect location for seeing Hirado's sights and historic waterfront. Note that it is cash only, and there are no nonsmoking rooms.

Hotel RanpūHOTEL¥¥

(ホテル蘭風 %0950-23-2111; www.hotelranpu.com; 55 Kawauchi-chō; s/tw incl 2 meals ¥8500/10,800; pnaW)

About a 30km (one-hour) drive from Cape Shijiki, this hotel has expansive indoor and outdoor onsen baths, a beach and restaurants. It's also your only option if you're doing sightseeing around here.

Samson HotelRESORT¥¥

(サムソンホテル %0950-57-1110; www.samson-hotel.jp; 210-6 Nodamen, Tabira-chō; capsule ¥3390, r per person incl 2 meals from ¥9720; pnai)

This 10-storey hot-spring hotel on the mainland was renovated in 2012. Public baths are like lookouts over the water, and pricey giant suites contain multiple rooms, some with balconies. By contrast, capsule hotel beds are as simple as you can get (meals not included), and there's a summertime beer garden. Rates listed are for the old building.

ShunsenkanSEAFOOD¥

(旬鮮館 %0950-22-4857; 655-13 Miyano-chō; sashimi set meal ¥700; h10am-4pm Wed-Mon)

Across from the tourist information office and operated by local fishing families, this cooperative is basically a market with picnic tables, where staff will prepare meals. Look for the red building and ask for sashimi moriawase (assorted sashimi; ¥400), kaisendon (seafood over rice) or just point.

IchiyamaSTEAK¥¥

(市山 %0950-22-2439; 529 Tsukiji-machi; set meals ¥3800; h11.30am-2pm & 5-10pm Wed-Mon)

Hirado beef compares well in taste with other wagyū varieties. Try it at this spacious and comfy spot for yakiniku (Korean-style grilled beef). Multicourse set menus are a good deal.

8Information

Tourist Information Centre (平戸観光案内所 %0950-22-2015; 776-6 Sakigata; h8am-6pm; W) Located near the ferry terminal and has lots of English-language materials, free computers/wi-fi and helpful staff who can assist with booking accommodation.

8Getting There & Away

Hirado is closer to Saga-ken than to Nagasaki city, joined to Kyūshū by a mini Golden Gate–lookalike bridge from Hirado-guchi. The closest train station, Tabira-Hirado-guchi on the private Matsūra-tetsudō line (to Imari ¥1230, 72 minutes; Sasebo ¥1340, 90 minutes), is Japan's westernmost; and local buses cross the bridge to the island (¥260, 10 minutes). From Nagasaki, journey to Sasebo by JR/express bus (¥1600/1450, both 1½ hours) and continue to Hirado by bus (¥1500, 1½ hours).

8Getting Around

Hirado township is small enough to navigate on foot, but you'll need your own transport for points elsewhere on the island.

Rental bikes are available at the tourist information centre for ¥500 per four hours. Rental cars, starting at ¥5300 per day, are well worth it if you plan to see the furthest sights or beaches.

Arita 有田

%0955 / Pop 20,170

Kaolin clay was discovered in Arita (有田) in 1615 by Ri Sampei, a naturalised Korean potter, enabling the manufacture of fine porcelain in Japan for the first time. By the mid-17th century, the porcelain was being exported to Europe.

Between the station and Kyūshū Ceramic Museum is the Yakimono Sanpo-michi (Pottery Promenade) of around 16 galleries. The tourist office has a map that's in Japanese but is easy enough to follow. Arita's streets fill with vendors for the annual pottery market, held from 29 April to 5 May.

Out of the town centre, two of Arita-yaki's prime practitioners have been at it for 14 generations. The Imaemon Gallery and Kakiemon Kiln both have museums in addition to sales shops. Genemon Kiln makes and sells more contemporary styles.

1Sights

oKouraku KilnFACTORY

(幸楽窯 %0955-42-4121; www.kouraku.jp.net; Marunohei 2512; h9am-8pm)

This fascinating pottery factory has something for everyone: you can try making simple pottery on the throwing wheel (which can be fired and mailed to you within Japan); you can stay here longer in a residency to learn the craft (¥49,000/200,000 per week/month); or shoppers can go 'Treasure Hunting' in the vast seconds warehouse and spend as much time filling a box (¥5000) with whatever fits.

Headed by a genial Brazilian, this kiln has opted – at some risk of criticism – to offer reasonably priced pieces for tourists who aren't deep-pocketed art collectors. As such, you'll find it far less manicured, but the chance to have as much Arita-yaki as you can take home for ¥5000 is unique and fun. The residency includes up to 40kg of porcelain clay and you live and work with potters, learning the Arita ceramic craft.

oKyūshū Ceramic MuseumMUSEUM

(九州陶磁文化館 %095-543-3681; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)F

About five minutes on foot from Arita Station, this large, hilltop operation is the best ceramics museum in the region. The Shibata Collection comprehensively showcases the development and styles of Kyūshū's many ceramic arts, with excellent English signage. An entrance fee may be charged for some special exhibits.

Imaemon GalleryGALLERY

(今石衛門ギャラリー %0955-42-5550; ¥300; h9.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun)

Stunning works of art are on display in the gallery of one of Japan's living national treasures. The adjoining shop is open daily, even when the gallery is closed.

Kakiemon KilnFACTORY

(柿右衛門窯 %0955-43-2267; h9am-5pm)F

This kiln is one of Arita's don't-miss sights. The wood-fired kiln produces a particular kind of porcelain, known (not surprisingly!) as Kakiemon-ware.

2Activities

Takeo OnsenONSEN

(武雄温泉 %095-423-2001; ¥400; h6.30am-midnight)

The original Takeo Onsen has a 1300-year history and is said to have refreshed the armies of Toyotomi Hideyoshi. Its impressive lacquered Chinese-style entrance gate was built without nails, and the oldest existing bathing building (Moto-yu) is a wooden hall from 1870. It’s a 15-minute walk west of the Takeo Station’s north exit.

The complex even has rotemburo (outdoor baths) and kashikiri (private reservable baths for families or couples), making it a good spot for people uncomfortable bathing nude among others.

4Sleeping & Eating

There are a few nondescript hotels. Takeo Onsen would be a better spot to overnight.

Takeo Onsen Youth HostelHOSTEL¥

(武雄温泉ユースホステル %0954-22-2490; www.e-yh.net/takeo; 16060-1 Nagashima; dm HI member/nonmember ¥3400/4000; pnaiW)

You can stay among hot-spring baths at the 14-room Takeo Onsen Youth Hostel, with a green and orange paint job so bright it's likely visible from space. The friendly owners can pick you up from the station if you ring ahead saying you'll be later than the 4pm check-in. A few loaner bikes are available. Rates include a simple breakfast.

Because neither lunch nor dinner is served, you'll need to bring provisions if you won't be dining in town.

Gallery AritaCAFE¥¥

(%095-542-2952; Honmachi Ōtsu 3057; godōfu set menu ¥1350, coffee from ¥450; h9am-7pm)

Choose from over 2000 cup and saucer sets from hundreds of different Arita-yaki potters. The waitstaff seem to know each one personally, too. Coffee is brewed filter style and the godōfu set meal is an excellent lunch. Don't miss the Arita-yaki-style Mini Cooper in the driveway.

7Shopping

Genemon KilnCERAMICS

(源右衛門窯 %0955-42-4164; www.gen-emon.co.jp; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat)

Potters work in a large studio crafting stunning examples of Arita-ware.

8Information

Tourist Information Desk (%0955-42-4052; www.arita.jp; h9am-5pm) The staff at this tiny info desk inside Arita Station can assist with maps in English, timetables and accommodation, predominantly small private minshuku (guesthouses). Be sure to grab a hama (ceramic disk used in firing) as a free souvenir.

8Getting There & Away

The private Matsūra-tetsudō line connects Arita with Imari (¥460, 24 minutes). JR tokkyū trains between Hakata (¥2750, 80 minutes) and Sasebo (¥760, 31 minutes) stop at Arita and Takeo Onsen. Takeo Onsen is also connected to Arita by local trains (¥280, 20 minutes).

Infrequent community buses (¥200) cover most sights, but you'll save time by taking taxis (about ¥1000 to most sights). Arita Station rents out bicycles (¥500 to ¥1000 per day).