COPPER POTS & COBBLESTONES

My love affair with France

The crisp mornings with pigeons fluttering in the streets and the cobblestone markets coming alive with a bounty of fresh produce intrigued me from my very first visit to France. It’s a place where a meal isn’t just another meal; it is made with craftsmanship, dedication and love. This immediately connected with my childhood memories and the purpose of eating became a state of mind, rather than another plate of ingredients.

‘If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.’ – Ernest Hemingway

PLATEAU À FROMAGE ALWAYS A GOOD START. OR END.

VICHYSSOISE (A SHY POTATO AND LEEK SOUP)

This reminds me of the potato and leek soup of my childhood, which my mother used to make for us to eat during cold winter days at school. Then this was served warm, but typically, as I learnt later in my life, the real vichy-ssoise is traditionally served cold.

Difficulty: Easy

Preparation time: 1 hr 15 min.

Cooking time: Appox. 1 hr

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

  1. Simmer the vegetables in the stock for 40–50 minutes, partially covered. Season with salt. Blend in batches using a blender or food processor until you get a smooth consistency. Strain through cheesecloth to remove any lumps or pieces. Add the cream. Season again with salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot or cold, garnished with chives.

TARTE TATIN À L’ÉCHALOTE WITH OLD-FASHIONED ONION RINGS

This savoury version of a classic French dessert makes a delightful starter or vegetarian main course. It’s a classic comfort food of mine.

Difficulty: Easy

Preparation time: 40 min.

Cooking time: 25–30 min.

SERVES 4

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

  1. Place the shallots in a large bowl and cover with boiling water. Set aside for about 5 minutes. Peel the shallots and cut them in half.
  2. Heat the olive oil and butter in a large frying pan. Add the shallots and fry gently for 10 minutes, or until they are softened. Add the vinegar, thyme and 1 tablespoon water. Try not to break up the shallots as you gently fry them. Remove from the heat and transfer into a nonstick, shallow cake pan or pie tin that measures about 20 cm across. Allow to cool.
  3. Heat the oven to 200 °C. Cut the pastry in half. Roll out each piece to about 5 cm larger than the cake pan. Place one piece over the shallots. Sprinkle with the Parmesan and cover with the second piece of pastry. Trim the edges and bake for 25–30 minutes, or until the pastry is crisp and golden. Leave to cool in the pan for about 5 minutes before turning out onto a flat plate.
  4. Toss the white onion rings in the flour and seasoning. Shake off the excess flour and deep-fry the onion rings in hot oil until crispy and light brown. Drain on paper towel and sprinkle on top of the tarte tatin before serving.

CARPACCIO OF HEIRLOOM TOMATOES WITH GINGER AND FENNEL

This is probably the quintessential summer salad. Beautiful and simple, a flavour explosion, which is divine with chunks of freshly baked bread.

Difficulty: Easy

Preparation time: 15 min.

SERVES 4–6

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

  1. Use a serrated knife to slice the tomatoes as thinly as possible. Do the same with the fennel. Arrange the tomatoes and fennel on a plate and place in the fridge until just before serving. Chop the chives and mint very finely. In a small saucepan, melt the sugar and a pinch of salt with the rice vinegar, then add the soy sauce and oils. Mix with a whisk and then add the chopped herbs and grated ginger. When ready to serve, remove the tomatoes and fennel from the fridge and drizzle with the warm dressing.

MARINATED RED MARKET SALAD

Basically there is no limit to the ingredients you can use in this full, juicy salad, as long as they are in shades of red. To get the best results, I marinate some of the vegetables overnight.

Difficulty: Easy

Preparation time: 20 min., including overnight marinating

Serves 4–6 as a side

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

  1. Place the cherry tomatoes in a bowl and use a toothpick to prick each tomato at the top. Pour boiling water over them and allow to stand for about 15 minutes. Once the skins are starting to come loose, pour off the water and peel the tomatoes very carefully – do not to take them off the stalk. Combine the balsamic vinegar and half the olive oil and pour over the warm tomatoes. Season with black pepper and put in the fridge to marinate overnight.
  2. Slice the cabbage into 2 cm-thick slices and place in a deep bowl. Mix the raspberry vinegar with the rest of the olive oil, the lemon juice, cumin and seasoning. Pour this mixture over the cabbage, cover and refrigerate overnight.
  3. To assemble the salad, remove the tomatoes and cabbage from the dressings. Combine the balsamic and raspberry vinegar mixes with a whisk. Arrange the tomatoes, cabbage, radishes and beetroot leaves on a big plate and dress with the vinaigrette. Sprinkle with the cranberries and pomegranate seeds.

Life Lesson: Don’t shake the bottle of salad dressing until you’ve made sure that the top is closed.

PORK WITH PRUNES, SAGE AND CIDER

If you want to bring some class to your dinner table, give this recipe a try. Serve with mashed potatoes, French fries or even a simple salad.

Difficulty: Easy

Preparation time: 40 min.

Cooking time: 2 hrs

SERVES 6

INGREDIENTS

  • 300 ml apple cider
  • 100 ml clear honey
  • 100 g brown sugar
  • 2 kg pork tenderloin
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 10 pitted prunes
  • 3–4 fresh sage leaves

METHOD

  1. In a saucepan, make a glaze with 100 ml apple cider, the honey and the sugar. Reduce by almost half to form a sweet, syrupy sauce. Allow to cool.
  2. Preheat the oven to 200 °C. Place the pork in a roasting pan and season with salt and pepper. Roast for 20 minutes. Turn down the heat and brush with half the cider glaze. Cover and roast for a further 40 minutes.
  3. Remove the pork from the roasting pan and leave to rest. Pour the remaining glaze into the roasting pan and add the prunes and sage. Add the rest of the cider and enough water to form a liquid consistency. Place the pan on the heat and bring to a boil, then simmer until you have a thick gravy.
  4. Carve the pork into thick slices and place on top of a pool of gravy. Scatter with prunes and drizzle with more gravy.

TOMATES FARCIES (STUFFED TOMATOES)

‘Tomates Farcies’ is a staple of the summer season when tomatoes are abundant and at their peak. Use the same filling for peppers, courgettes or any other vegetables that may be available.

Difficulty: Little effort

Preparation time: 1 hr 30 min.

Cooking time: Approx. 45 min.

SERVES 6

INGREDIENTS

  • 3 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1 medium onion, sliced
  • 1 clove garlic, chopped
  • 1 x 400 g can tomatoes
  • 2 tablespoons sugar
  • 12 Roma tomatoes or similar
  • 1 medium onion, finely chopped
  • 1 kg beef mince
  • 4 tablespoons chopped herbs of your choice
  • 1 egg, beaten
  • 2 slices white bread, soaked in milk
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 18 cherry tomatoes

METHOD

  1. Preheat the oven to 200 °C.
  2. Heat the olive oil in a saucepan and fry the sliced onion and garlic until soft. Add the can of tomatoes and sugar and reduce by almost half.
  3. Cut the tops off the Roma tomatoes and cut out the centres. Hollow out the tomatoes using a teaspoon.*
  4. In a separate bowl, combine the chopped onion, beef mince, herbs, egg and white bread. Season well with salt and pepper. Mix together well, making sure all the bread and egg has been incorporated. Shape the mixture into small balls and use them to fill the tomatoes so that they are a little over full.
  5. Place the sauce into an ovenproof baking dish and stand the filled tomatoes upright in the sauce. If necessary, cut off the tomato bottoms so that they stand easier in the dish. Arrange the cherry tomatoes around the filled tomatoes and bake for 30–45 minutes.

*Use the tomato seeds and flesh to make a quick tomato sauce: fry 1 crushed clove garlic and 1 sliced shallot, then add the tomato seeds and flesh as well as 1 teaspoon brown sugar and 1 teaspoon fresh thyme, and simmer for 20 minutes. Zap it in the food processor and season to taste.

RAGOÛT DE LAPIN (RABBIT AND MUSHROOM RAGOUT)

A true French family favourite. Once, on our return from a summer holiday, Pascal told me that his grandmother silently denied the fact that his two pet rabbits were missing. They had ‘Ragout de Lapin’ for dinner.

Difficulty: Easy

Preparation time: 40 min.

Cooking time: 40–50 min.

SERVES 6

INGREDIENTS

  • 2 teaspoons unsalted butter
  • 1 x 1 kg rabbit, boned and cut into 1.5 cm pieces (about 31/2 cups)
  • 1 onion, peeled and thinly sliced
  • 2 cups shiitake or ceps mushrooms, stemmed and roughly chopped
  • 1 cup button mushrooms, stemmed and sliced
  • 3/4 cup chicken broth, fresh or low-sodium canned
  • 1/2 cup dry white wine
  • 1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste
  • Large pinch ground nutmeg
  • 4 brioches or 4 thick slices of sweet bread
  • 1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme
  • 1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley

METHOD

  1. Heat the butter in a large, heavy skillet. Add the rabbit and sauté for 2 minutes. Remove the rabbit from the pan and set aside. Add the onion to the pan and sauté on medium–high heat until caramelised, stirring occasionally.
  2. Add all the mushrooms and cook, stirring frequently, for about 5 minutes. Add the chicken broth, white wine, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Simmer slowly for 30 minutes. Stir in the rabbit and simmer for 5 minutes.
  3. If using brioche, cut in half crosswise. Toast the brioche or bread (on both sides if using bread). Place each roll or bread slice on a plate. Smother with the ragout. Garnish with the thyme and parsley and serve immediately.

CARAMELISED BANANA CRÊPE SOUFFLÉ WITH MINT CRÈME ANGLAISE

To have a soufflé and a crêpe on one plate is the ‘Frenchest’ thing you can do.

Difficulty: Medium

Preparation time: 45 min.

Cooking time: 25–30 min.

SERVES 6

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

  1. When making the one batch of crème anglaise, leave out the vanilla bean and replace with a handful of fresh mint. Boil this in the milk and strain before adding the egg and sugar mix. Keep the two batches separate.
  2. Slice the bananas in 2 cm-thick rounds and mix with the brown sugar. Heat a saucepan and add the bananas and sugar. Pour in 2 tablespoons water to create a liquid. On low heat, gently stir until the bananas begin to caramelise. Set aside.
  3. In a clean bowl, whisk the egg whites until stiff peaks form. Gradually fold in 1/3 cup vanilla crème anglaise, being careful not to overmix as this will prevent the soufflé from being fluffy.
  4. Preheat the oven to 180 °C. Depending on the size of the pancakes, fold them into quarters and place on a greased baking tray. Spoon some caramelised banana on top of the third layer of pancake (the top layer of pancake needs to cover the mixture). Carefully spoon a generous amount of the egg white mixture on top of the caramelised bananas on the third layer. It should now form little pockets.
  5. Bake the soufflé pancakes for 15–20 minutes, or until the soufflé puffs up nicely and the pancakes are turning brown at the edges. Serve immediately with the mint crème anglaise.

Add a teaspoon (or two) of dark rum, Grand Marnier or Cognac to the bananas when caramelising.

PANCAKES WITH SALTED CARAMEL SAUCE AND POACHED BLOOD ORANGES

Probably one of the first things I learned to make was my grandmother’s pancakes. Ouma Wes always burned them slightly, telling me that it was done on purpose, although I still think she could never really control her stove. The aroma of the pancakes sprinkled with cinnamon sugar and served with wedges of lemon would drift across the entire yard, letting on that an after-school treat was in store. I adapted the recipe using poached blood oranges and salted caramel sauce, which I found in Paris on one of my travels.

Difficulty: Easy

Preparation time: 15 min.

Cooking time: 20 min.

SERVES 6

INGREDIENTS

For the Pancakes

  • 3 eggs
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 2 tablespoons sugar
  • 4 tablespoons butter, melted
  • 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
  • 2 cups milk
  • 11/2 cups cake flour
  • 2 tablespoons sunflower oil for frying

METHOD

  1. Make the pancakes first. Mix the eggs, egg yolk, sugar and melted butter in a small bowl. Scrape the vanilla seeds into the milk, add the vanilla bean and place on low heat until heated through. Sift the flour into a large jug, make a well in the centre and pour in the egg and butter mixture. Add the warm milk and mix until the batter is free of lumps. Rest the batter for at least 1 hour. Heat a frying pan and add a drizzle of oil. Add a ladleful of batter and tilt the pan to spread it evenly. Cook for about 1 minute on medium heat until the bottom is golden. Flip and cook the other side for a minute. Repeat with the rest of the batter. Keep the pancakes warm until needed.
  2. Peel the blood oranges and slice them 5 mm thick. Melt the sugar and water together until they form a light syrup. Add the liqueur and bring to simmering point. Do not boil. Arrange the blood orange slices in the pan and simmer for about 4 minutes until they soak up some of the syrup.
  3. Make the salted caramel sauce and allow to cool slightly.
  4. To serve, fold the pancakes into triangles and fill with the poached blood oranges. Drizzle with the salted caramel sauce and serve warm. You can also sprinkle the pancakes with toasted crushed pistachios or almonds.

Replace the blood oranges with oranges or nectarines.

OPEN APPLE FLAN WITH SWEET PASTRY CRUST

This is a simple, light and delicious apple tart that looks and tastes like the real deal … what you’ll see displayed in the windows of Parisian patisseries.

Difficulty: Medium

Preparation time: 20 min.

Cooking time: 1 hr 15 min.

SERVES 6

INGREDIENTS

  • 1 batch Pâté Sucrée (see page 293)
  • 6 medium Granny Smith apples
  • 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1/2 cup granulated sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon lemon zest
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • Icing sugar for browning the top
  • Apricot jam

METHOD

  1. Preheat the oven to 200 °C. Position the rack in the centre of the oven.
  2. Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface to a thickness of 3 mm. Using a saucer or any mould similar in size, cut out discs and set aside. You will need to re-roll the pastry a few times to make six discs. Place the pastry circles on a greased baking tray and prick with a fork. Refrigerate for about 20 minutes to chill the butter and rest the gluten. Once ready for the oven, place circles of greaseproof paper on top of the pastry, top with dried beans and bake for 20–25 minutes until the crusts are dry and lightly browned. Remove the beans and cool the pastry on a wire rack.
  3. Peel, core and slice three of the apples. In a large skillet, melt 1 tablespoon butter and stir in 2–4 teaspoons sugar, the lemon zest and the cinnamon. Add the sliced apples and sauté on moderate heat, stirring occasionally for about 10 minutes, or until the apples are soft. Gently mash the apples with a fork and stir until most of the moisture has evaporated. Remove from the heat and let it cool.
  4. Now core, peel and cut the remaining apples into slices about 5 mm thick. Melt another 1 tablespoon butter in a skillet on medium heat and stir in the remaining sugar. Add the apple slices and sauté for about 5 minutes until they begin to soften. Set aside.
  5. Spoon the apple sauce mixture onto the prebaked pastry discs and arrange the apple slices in concentric circles over the apple sauce. Brush with melted butter and bake at 170 °C for 20–25 minutes, or until the apples are browned and soft. Remove from the oven and dust with icing sugar. Place under a preheated grill for a minute or two. When the tarts have cooled, glaze with warm apricot jam. Serve warm or at room temperature with softly whipped cream, crème fraîche or vanilla ice cream.

RED WINE-POACHED PEARS

A single pear, poached in red wine and standing upright on a dessert plate, is a beautiful thing. It’s so classy, don’t you agree?

Difficulty: Easy

Preparation time: 30 min., excluding chilling time

Cooking time: Approx. 1 hr

SERVES 4

INGREDIENTS

  • 2 cups red wine
  • 1 cup water
  • 11/2 cups castor sugar
  • 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
  • 2 pieces stick cinnamon, broken
  • 2 star anise
  • 4 whole cloves
  • 4 tall pears, peeled
  • Greek yoghurt for serving

METHOD

  1. In a saucepan, bring the wine, water, sugar, vanilla bean, cinnamon, star anise and cloves to a boil, stirring until the sugar has dissolved.
  2. Peel the pears and trim the bases to help them stand upright. Place them in the poaching liquid, topping it up with water to cover the pears. Simmer for 40 minutes. Take off the heat and cool. Once cool, transfer the pears and liquid into an airtight container and place in the fridge to rest overnight.
  3. Remove the pears and reduce the poaching liquid to a syrup consistency. Strain the syrup and discard the whole spices.
  4. Serve the pears with the syrup and Greek yoghurt.

Use the reduced syrup to make a delicious sorbet.

CHAMOMILE ÎLE FLOTTANTE (FLOATING ISLANDS WITH CARAMEL SAUCE)

A wonderful, weirdly French dessert, featuring meringue floating on a sea of custard. Think of a floral Sunday custard with a bite of soft, sweet foam. Delightful!

Difficulty: Medium

Preparation time: 20 min.

Cooking time: 20 min.

SERVES 6

INGREDIENTS

  • 1 batch Crème Anglaise (see page 293)
  • 1 cup dried chamomile flowers/loose tea
  • 1 cup egg whites
  • 1/2 cup castor sugar
  • 2 cups full-cream milk

For the Caramel Sauce

  • 2 cups granulated sugar
  • 12 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1 cup double cream, at room temperature

METHOD

  1. When making the crème anglaise, boil the milk with the camomile flowers, then reduce the heat and allow to stand for 10 minutes. Then follow the recipe as normal. Set aside to cool completely. (This can be made up to two days in advance.)
  2. To make the caramel sauce, add the sugar to a heavy-based saucepan and melt on low–medium heat. You will notice that it forms lumps, but just keep going as they will melt as you stir slowly with the back of a wooden spoon. Continue cooking until all the sugar has melted and is a deep amber colour. Take care not to burn the caramel; this happens quickly. Now add the butter all at once, being careful as the caramel will bubble. Whisk until the butter is completely melted. Remove from the heat and slowly pour the cream into the caramel. It should form a smooth, creamy sauce.
  3. When you are almost ready to serve the dessert, beat the egg whites until frothy using an electric mixer set to medium speed. Increase to high while slowly adding the castor sugar. Mix until you have a stiff, glossy meringue.
  4. Meanwhile, heat the milk in a medium saucepan to a gentle simmer. Line a tray with paper towel. Using large spoons, shape about half a cup of meringue into a quenelle (egg shape) and place into the simmering milk. Poach two meringues at a time, turning halfway through – about 45 seconds per side. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to the lined tray.
  5. Serve the crème anglaise with a meringue island floating in each bowl, topped with a spoon of reheated caramel sauce.

SOFT ROSE, LYCHEE AND CREAM JELLY

Something about this dessert reminds me of the era of Marie Antoinette. Maybe it’s the metres of buffets laden with everything moulded, opulent and alive with colour. I love jelly and I love roses. Add lychees and condensed milk … and you’re good to go!

Difficulty: Easy

Preparation time: 30 min.

Cooking time: 15 min.

SERVES 6

INGREDIENTS

  • Boiling water
  • 14 g gelatin powder or 16 sheets gelatin
  • 1 x 397 g can condensed milk
  • 1 cup cream, whipped
  • 1 cup boiling water
  • 10 lychees, peeled or 1 x 400 g can lychees in syrup
  • 1 tablespoon rose-water
  • 1/2 cup sugar
  • Rose food colouring

METHOD

  1. First make the soft, creamy layer by mixing 2 tablespoons boiling water with 7 g or 8 sheets gelatin. Set aside for a few minutes.
  2. In a double boiler, mix the condensed milk and gelatin together. Cook for about 5 minutes until the mixture thickens. Set aside to cool.
  3. Fold the whipped cream into the condensed milk mixture and pour into large or individual glass containers to set.
  4. For the translucent layer, mix 2 tablespoons boiling water with the rest of the gelatin. Set aside.
  5. Place the cup of boiling water, lychees, rose-water and sugar in a saucepan. Add the soaked gelatin and bring to a boil.
  6. Remove from the heat, strain the liquid into a bowl over another bowl of iced water and allow to cool. While the mixture cools, add a pinch of rose food colouring.
  7. Cut the lychees into quarters and place them on top of the creamy jelly. Pour the rose-water mixture over the lychees and allow to set in the fridge.
  8. Carefully unmould the jelly and serve.

To decorate the jelly, use fresh rose petals dipped in egg white and castor sugar.

STRAWBERRIES WITH ORANGE FLOWER WATER

This is a truly seasonal dish that I had at Joël Robuchon in Paris. Simple, yet incredible!

Difficulty: Easy

Preparation time: 1–2 hrs

SERVES 4

INGREDIENTS

  • 1 large bowl of strawberries or 2 punnets
  • 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
  • 1/4 cup castor sugar
  • 1 cup orange juice
  • 3 tablespoons orange flower water
  • Candied orange peel for serving
  • Melted dark chocolate for serving

METHOD

  1. Gently wash the strawberries, then quarter them and place in a bowl. Add the red wine vinegar and castor sugar. Mix gently and leave to marinate for 1 hour, covered, in the fridge.
  2. Meanwhile in a separate bowl, mix the freshly squeezed orange juice and the orange flower water together. Once the strawberries are well marinated, add the orange juice mixture to the berries. Chill well and serve with candied orange peel dipped in dark chocolate.

STICKY TARTE TATIN

Stephanie Tatin started to make a traditional apple pie, but left the apples cooking in butter and sugar for too long. Smelling the burning, she tried to rescue the dish by putting the pastry base on top of the pan of apples, quickly finishing the cooking by putting the whole pan in the oven. After turning out the upside-down tart, she was surprised to find how much her guests appreciated the dessert.

Difficulty: Medium

Preparation time: 1 hr

Baking time: 20 min.

SERVES 6

INGREDIENTS

  • 3/4 cup sugar
  • Juice of 1/2 lemon
  • 4–6 apples (preferably Granny Smith), peeled and quartered
  • Ground cinnamon and brown sugar for sprinkling
  • 50 g butter, diced
  • 250 g Pâte Brisée (see page 293)

METHOD

  1. Preheat the oven to 200 °C.
  2. In a large ovenproof pan (preferably an iron skillet), caramelise the sugar with the lemon juice and stir to mix the caramel. At first it will form lumps, but keep stirring until all the sugar has dissolved. Make sure you don’t burn the caramel, although it is good to be slightly on the dark side. Once to your liking, remove from the heat.
  3. Arrange the apple slices tight against each other on top of the caramel and sprinkle with a little cinnamon and some brown sugar. Dot with the cubes of butter and then cover with the pâté brisée. Gently push the pastry against the sides of the pan and onto the apples. Using a fork, prick the pastry a few times to prevent it from going soggy.
  4. Place the pan in the oven and bake for 20 minutes. You will notice that some syrup will start covering the pastry, but this will add character and ensure the tart will be well cooked. Once the pastry is cooked, remove from the oven and turn out onto a plate. Be careful as the tart will be very hot. Some apples might stick to the pan, but leave it upside down for a few minutes to allow the apples to loosen and also soak the pastry with the caramel. Gently lift the pan and serve the tart hot with cream or crème fraîche.

PINE KERNEL AND FLOWER HONEY TART

This recipe is from Grasse, where flowers are made into perfume and pine nuts are made into tarts. A real South of France delight!

Difficulty: Easy

Preparation time: Approx. 1 hr

Baking time: 45–50 min.

SERVES 6

INGREDIENTS

For the Pastry

  • 2 cups cake flour
  • 1/2 cup butter
  • 2 tablespoons icing sugar
  • 1 egg, beaten
  • 1 tablespoon water

For the Filling

  • 1/2 cup unsalted butter, room temperature
  • 1/2 cup castor sugar
  • 3 eggs
  • 175 g flower honey
  • Zest and juice of 1 lemon
  • 225 g pine nuts
  • Pinch salt

METHOD

  1. Preheat the oven to 180 °C.
  2. To make the pastry, sift the flour into a bowl, add the butter and work it in with your fingertips until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Stir in the icing sugar. Add the egg and water and work to a firm dough that leaves the bowl clean.
  3. Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface and use to line a 23 cm tart pan. Prick the base with a fork and chill for 10 minutes. Line with baking paper and fill the shell with dried beans. Bake the tart shell for 10 minutes.
  4. To make the filling, cream the butter and castor sugar together until light in colour. Beat in the eggs, one by one. Gently heat the honey in a small saucepan until runny and then add the butter mixture, lemon zest and juice. Stir in the pine nuts and salt and then pour the filling into the pastry case.
  5. Bake for approximately 45 minutes, or until the filling is lightly browned and set. Leave to cool slightly in the pan.

FROZEN YOGHURT AND NOUGAT ICE CREAM WITH ROSE SYRUP

Okay, I have to admit it. I have a serious soft spot for rose-water and rose syrup … actually anything to do with roses. This is a last-minute concoction that became a regular on my lunch tables.

Difficulty: Easy

Preparation time: 15 min.

SERVES 4

INGREDIENTS

  • 1 kg plain yoghurt
  • 11/2 cups chopped nougat
  • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
  • 2 tablespoons castor sugar
  • 1/2 cup rose syrup

METHOD

  1. Mix the plain yoghurt with the chopped nougat, vanilla and castor sugar. Turn the mixture into a loaf pan lined with plastic wrap and freeze until solid.
  2. Once frozen, place in an airtight container and use the frozen yoghurt as you need it.
  3. To serve, slice the frozen yoghurt and let it stand at room temperature for about 10 minutes before serving. Drizzle with rose syrup and chunks of chopped nougat.

HONEY QUINOA BREAD

Preparation time: 4 hrs

Baking time: 45 min

Difficulty: Medium

SERVES 6

INGREDIENTS

  • 1 cup raw quinoa
  • 2 cups water for cooking the quinoa
  • 1/4 cup oats
  • 1/4 cup water for cooking the oats
  • 1/4 cup milk
  • 3/4 cup warm water
  • 2 teaspoons instant yeast
  • 1/3 cup honey
  • 1/4 cup vegetable oil
  • 3 tablespoons powdered milk
  • 3 cups bread flour
  • 2 teaspoons salt
  • 1 cup whole-wheat flour
  • Quinoa seeds for sprinkling

METHOD

  1. Cook the quinoa in 2 cups water for 10–15 minutes until the water is absorbed. Cool to room temperature. Cook the oats in 1/4 cup water and 1/4 cup milk until the liquid has been absorbed. Allow to cool.
  2. Pour the 3/4 cup warm water in a large bowl (or the bowl of a standing mixer) and sprinkle the yeast over the water. Set aside for 5 minutes. Stir the honey, oil and powdered milk into the yeast mixture using a wooden spoon. Add 1 cup of the bread flour and the salt and stir well. Add the cooked quinoa and oats and stir. Add the whole-wheat flour and 1 cup more of the bread flour and stir. When the dough starts to get stiff, turn out onto a floured surface and begin to knead. (If using a standing mixer, continue to knead with the dough hook.) Keep adding flour and kneading until the dough is smooth and elastic, about 5 minutes with a mixer or 10–15 minutes by hand. The dough should feel slightly sticky, but should not be wet and slack. You should be able to form it into a ball and it should hold its shape.
  3. Lightly oil a large bowl with vegetable oil and place the dough in the bowl, turning to coat lightly with the oil. Cover loosely with plastic wrap. Let the bread dough rise in a warm spot until doubled in size, about 2 hours.
  4. Oil a large loaf pan (28 x 16 cm). Knock down the dough and shape into a ball. Pat into an oval shape about the length of the pan. Fold the long sides in and tuck them underneath as you place the dough into the pan, so that the top surface of the bread is smooth and without seams. Brush the top very lightly with water and sprinkle with quinoa seeds. Let it rise in a warm place until almost doubled in size. Preheat the oven to 200 °C.
  5. When the oven is hot, place the pan in the centre of the oven and throw a handful of ice cubes onto the bottom of the oven to create steam. Bake for 30 minutes. Cover bread loosely with foil if the top is getting too brown and bake 15 minutes more. The bread should sound hollow when tapped. Cool in the pan for 15 minutes, then remove and cool completely.

RASPBERRY AND MARZIPAN CREAM CAKE

This recipe is my own adaptation of the Swedish Princess Cake that I was introduced to by the lovely Holmström/Sinclair family. Normally served on special occasions, but I cannot wait to serve this time and time again.

Difficulty: Little effort

Preparation time: 1 hr 30 min.

Baking time: 30–35 min.

SERVES 10

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

  1. Preheat the oven to 180 °C. Butter and flour two cake pans measuring 20 cm in diameter, tapping out the excess flour.
  2. In a medium bowl, sift the flour, baking powder, bicarbonate of soda and salt together.
  3. In a separate large bowl, using an electric mixer, cream the butter and sugar together until light and fluffy. With the mixer on low, beat in the eggs and yolks, one at a time. Mix in the vanilla and then slowly beat in the flour mixture and buttermilk. Mix until all is just combined.
  4. Divide the batter evenly between the cake pans, smooth the tops and bake for 30–35 minutes until the cakes pull away from the sides of the pans. Run a knife around the edges of the pans and turn out the cakes onto a wire rack. Cool completely.
  5. Place one cake, bottom-side up, on a cake stand. Spread with a generous scoop of raspberry jam. Beat the double cream with an electric mixer until stiff. Fold in 1/2 cup crème pâtissière.
  6. Using a spatula or table knife, spread the cream mixture over the jam. Top with the second cake and spread with jam. Lightly dust a work surface with icing sugar and roll out the marzipan to about 2 mm thick. Carefully lift the sheet of marzipan onto your rolling pin and transfer to the cake. Gently press the marzipan evenly onto the cake. Neatly trim the sides of any excess marzipan.

CROQUE-MONSIEUR À LA BANANE

Difficulty: Easy

Preparation time: 20 min.

SERVES 4

INGREDIENTS

  • 50 g butter
  • 4 slices white sandwich bread
  • 1 teaspoon brown sugar
  • 1 ripe banana
  • 4 tablespoons condensed milk
  • 1 teaspoon ground ginger
  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • Pinch salt

METHOD

  1. Lightly butter one side of each slice of bread and sprinkle with 2 pinches of brown sugar. On the non-buttered sides, arrange thin slices of banana, top with a generous spoonful of condensed milk and sprinkle over a pinch of ginger, 2 pinches of cinnamon and a few grains of salt. Cover each banana-topped slice of bread with another slice of bread, butter side up. Cook in a sandwich grill until golden brown.

Serve this as a decadent breakfast or an easy dessert.

SPICED FRENCH TOAST

Difficulty: Easy

Preparation time: 15 min.

SERVES 4

INGREDIENTS

  • 5 eggs
  • 1/4 cup heavy whipping cream
  • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • Pinch salt
  • 1 tablespoon honey
  • 1 tablespoon butter
  • Thick slices brioche or white bread
  • Maple syrup

METHOD

  1. Whisk the eggs, cream, vanilla, cinnamon, salt and honey together in a large, shallow bowl. Heat a cast-iron skillet on the stovetop. (Cast iron is the best, since it cooks evenly and doesn’t stick.) Melt the butter on medium–low heat in the centre of the skillet.
  2. Dip the bread into the egg mixture so that both sides are fully coated – but not completely soaked or your French toast will be soggy. Place one or two pieces of the bread into the skillet at a time, depending on how many will fit into the pan. Cook until golden brown, 2–3 minutes on each side. Remove from the pan and place on a rack or ovenproof plate inside a warm oven to keep warm until ready to serve with maple syrup.

MELKKOS MACARONS

This recipe came to mind when I lived in Paris and craved two of my favourite things: Ouma Wes’s melkkos and crispy, soft macarons.

Difficulty: Little effort

Preparation time: 45 min.

Baking time: 20 min.

MAKES 10–14

INGREDIENTS

  • 2 cups icing sugar
  • 1 cup almond flour
  • 3 egg whites
  • 1/4 cup castor sugar
  • Pinch salt
  • Ground cinnamon for dusting

For the Melkkos

  • 1/2 cup cake flour
  • Pinch salt
  • 1 tablespoon soft butter
  • 2 cups full-cream milk

METHOD

  1. Preheat the oven to 140 °C.
  2. Blend the icing sugar and almond flour together a few times and then sift them about three times to get rid of all the lumps.
  3. Beat the egg whites and castor sugar until it forms soft peaks, then gently fold in the flour and sugar powder and salt. Carefully fold about 60 times, but make sure not to overmix! Transfer the batter to a piping bag and pipe rounds onto a baking tray. Allow to rest for at least 20 minutes, then tap on the counter a few times to get rid of most of the air.
  4. Dust lightly with cinnamon and bake for 20 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and allow to cool completely.
  5. To make the melkkos, mix the flour and salt in a mixing bowl, and add the butter. Use your fingertips to create breadcrumb-like lumps (a food processor also works well for this). Heat the milk in a saucepan to just before boiling point and then add the flour crumbs gradually to the milk, stirring constantly. There will be lumps, but the more you stir, the smoother it will become. Adjust the heat to medium and allow to simmer for about 5 minutes. Allow to cool completely before using to sandwich the macarons.

We’ll always have Paris.’

– Howard Koch

‘Light, refined, learned and noble, harmonious and orderly, clear and logical, the cooking of France is, in some strange manner, intimately linked to the genius of her greatest men.’

– Marcel Rouff

‘Just speak very loudly and quickly, and state your position with utter conviction, as the French do, and you will have a marvelous time!’

– Julia Child

My first kitchen in France, entirely renovated by my dearest friends and copious amounts of champagne.

– Avize, Champagne