5Upper West Side & Central Park

Peacefood CafeVEGAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-362-2266; www.peacefoodcafe.com; 460 Amsterdam Ave, at 82nd St; mains $12-18; h10am-10pm; v; b1 to 79th St)

This bright and airy vegan haven dishes up a popular fried seitan panino (served on homemade focaccia and topped with cashew cheese, arugula, tomatoes and pesto), as well as pizzas, roasted vegetable plates and an excellent quinoa salad. There are daily raw specials, energy-fueling juices and rich desserts. Healthy and good – for you, the animals and the environment.

West 79th Street Boat Basin CaféCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-496-5542; www.boatbasincafe.com; W 79th St, at Henry Hudson Parkway; mains $14; h11am-11pm Apr-Oct, weather permitting; b1 to 79th St)

New ownership and an award-winning Culinary Institute of America chef are revitalizing this perennially popular waterside spot. The Robert Moses–era structure, with an elegant colonnade opening onto a outdoor rotunda, provides great marina and Hudson River views. Always deservedly popular for sunset drinks, the menu of salads, sandwiches, seafood and innovative NYC 'street food' is now another drawing card.

Jacob's PicklesAMERICAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-470-5566; www.jacobspickles.com; 509 Amsterdam Ave, btwn 84th & 85th; mains $16-24; h10am-2am Mon-Thu, to 4am Fri, 9am-4am Sat, to 2am Sun; b1 to 86th St)

Jacob's elevates the humble pickle to exalted status at this inviting and warmly lit eatery. Aside from briny cukes and other preserves, you'll find heaping portions of upscale comfort food, such as catfish tacos, wine-braised turkey-leg dinner, and mushroom mac 'n' cheese. The biscuits are top-notch.

Barney GreengrassDELI$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-724-4707; www.barneygreengrass.com; 541 Amsterdam Ave, at 86th St; mains $12-26; h8:30am-4pm Tue-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun; b1 to 86th St)

The self-proclaimed ‘King of Sturgeon’ Barney Greengrass serves up the same heaping dishes of eggs and salty lox, luxuriant caviar and melt-in-your-mouth chocolate babkas that first made it famous when it opened over a century ago. Pop in to fuel up in the morning or for a quick lunch (there are rickety tables set amid the crowded produce aisles).

PJ Clarke'sAMERICAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-957-9700; www.pjclarkes.com; 44 W 63rd St, cnr Broadway; burgers $18-26, mains $21-26; h11:30am-2am; b1 to 66th St-Lincoln Center)

Across the street from Lincoln Center, this spot has red-checked tablecloths, a buttoned-down crowd, friendly bartenders and a solid menu. If you’re in a rush, sidle up to the bar for a Black Angus burger and a Brooklyn Lager. A raw bar offers fresh Long Island Little Neck and Cherry Stone clams, as well as jumbo shrimp cocktails.

DovetailMODERN AMERICAN$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-362-3800; www.dovetailnyc.com; 103 W 77th St, cnr Columbus Ave; prix fixe $68-88, tasting menu $145; h5:30-10pm Mon-Thu, to 10:30pm Fri & Sat, 5-10pm Sun; v; bB, C to 81st St-Museum of Natural History; 1 to 79th St)

This Michelin-starred restaurant showcases its Zen-like beauty in both its decor (exposed brick, bare tables) and its delectable, seasonal menus – think striped bass with sunchokes and burgundy truffle, and venison with bacon, golden beets and foraged greens. Each evening there are two seven-course tasting menus: one for omnivores ($145) and one for vegetarians ($125).

Burke & WillsMODERN AUSTRALIAN$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %646-823-9251; www.burkeandwillsny.com; 226 W 79th St, btwn Broadway & Amsterdam Ave; mains lunch $19-32, dinner $19-39; hlunch noon-3pm Mon-Fri, dinner 5:30-11:30pm, brunch 11am-4pm Sat & Sun; b1 to 79th St)

This ruggedly attractive bistro and bar brings a touch of the outback to the Upper West Side. The menu leans toward Modern Australian pub grub: juicy kangaroo burgers with triple-fried chips, rack of Australian lamb, braised pork belly with bacon and duck confit, and seafood platters with oysters, clams and crab claws.

Vintage framed artwork on the walls pay tribute to the land of Oz, in particular those ill-fated European explorers for whom the restaurant is named (they died in the outback attempting to cross the continent from south to north). After the meal, head upstairs and sink into a Chesterfield while nursing a cocktail at the gilded Manhattan Cricket Club.

5Upper East Side

Earl’s Beer & CheeseAMERICAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-289-1581; www.earlsny.com; 1259 Park Ave, btwn E 97th & 98th Sts; grilled cheese $8; h11am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; b6 to 96th St)

This sibling-run, tiny comfort-food outpost channels a hipster hunting vibe, complete with a giant deer-in-the-woods mural and a mounted buck’s head. Basic grilled cheese is a paradigm shifter, served with pork belly, fried egg and kimchi. There is also mac ’n’ cheese (with goat’s cheese and crispy rosemary) and tacos (featuring braised pork shoulder and queso fresco).

Earl’s has great craft beers and a fine brunch menu (eggs Benedict, yogurt and house-made granola) too.

BoqueriaSPANISH$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-343-2227; www.boquerianyc.com; 1460 Second Ave, btwn E 76th & 77th Sts; tapas $6-18, paella for 2 $48-69; hnoon-10:30pm Sun-Thu, 11am-11:30pm Fri & Sat; v; b6 to 77th St; Q to 72nd St)

This lively, much-loved tapas place brings a bit of downtown cool to the Upper East Side, with nicely spiced patatas bravas (fried potatoes in tomato sauce), tender slices of jamon ibérico (cured ham) and rich pulpo a la plancha (grilled octopus). Head chef Marc Vidal also creates an exquisite seafood paella. Wash it down with a pitcher of excellent sangria.

Jones Wood FoundryBRITISH$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-249-2700; www.joneswoodfoundry.com; 401 E 76th St, btwn First & York Aves; mains lunch $16-28, dinner $17-34; h11am-11pm; bQ to 72nd St-2nd Ave)

Inside a narrow brick building that once housed an ironworks, the Jones Wood Foundry is a British-inspired gastropub serving first-rate beer-battered fish and chips, bangers and mash, lamb and rosemary pie and other hearty temptations. On warm days, grab a table on the enclosed courtyard patio.

Candle CafeVEGAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-472-0970; www.candlecafe.com; 1307 Third Ave, btwn E 74th & 75th Sts; mains $15-22; h11:30am-10:30pm Mon-Sat, to 9:30pm Sun; v; bQ to 72nd St-2nd Ave)

The moneyed yoga set piles into this attractive vegan cafe serving a long list of sandwiches, salads, comfort food and market-driven specials. The specialty here is the house-made seitan. There is a juice bar and a gluten-free menu.

oTanoshiSUSHI$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %917-265-8254; www.tanoshisushinyc.com; 1372 York Ave, btwn E 73rd & 74th Sts; chef’s sushi selection $80-100; hseatings 6pm, 7:30pm & 9pm Mon-Sat; bQ to 72nd St)

It’s not easy to snag one of the 20 stools at Tanoshi, a wildly popular, pocket-sized sushi spot. The setting may be humble, but the flavors are simply magnificent. Only sushi is on offer and only omakase (chef’s selection) – which might include Hokkaido scallops, king salmon or mouthwatering uni (sea urchin). BYO beer, sake or whatnot. Reserve well in advance.

NEW YORK FOR CHILDREN

The American Museum of Natural History, with its dinosaurs, marine world, planetarium and IMAX films, should not be missed. Nearly every big museum – the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Museum of Modern Art, Guggenheim Museum, Museum of the City of New York and Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum – all have kids’ programs, but many smaller institutions are even more appealing for young visitors. The Lower East Side Tenement Museum offers an interactive tour where kids can meet an immigrant (costumed interpreter) of centuries past.

AToddler Time

For tots aged one to five, hit the Children’s Museum of the Arts ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-274-0986; www.cmany.org; 103 Charlton St, btwn Greenwich & Hudson Sts, SoHo; admission $12, 4-6pm Thu by donation; hnoon-5pm Mon, noon-6pm Thu & Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun; c; b1 to Houston St; C/E to Spring St) in West SoHo and the Brooklyn Children’s Museum in Crown Heights. Both have story times, art classes, craft hours and painting sessions.

AFive & Over

Bigger kids can clamber on vintage subway cars at the New York Transit Museum or slide down a pole at the New York City Fire Museum. Out in Astoria, the Museum of the Moving Image has hands-on exhibits for kids.

5Harlem & Upper Manhattan

oRed RoosterMODERN AMERICAN$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-792-9001; www.redroosterharlem.com; 310 Malcolm X Blvd, btwn W 125th & 126th Sts, Harlem; mains lunch $18-32 dinner $24-38; h11:30am-10:30pm Mon-Thu, to 11:30pm Fri, 10am-11:30pm Sat, to 10pm Sun; b2/3 to 125th St)

Transatlantic superchef Marcus Samuelsson laces upscale comfort food with a world of flavors at his effortlessly cool, vibrant brasserie. Like the work of the New York–based contemporary artists displayed on the walls, dishes are up-to-date: mac ’n’ cheese joins forces with lobster, blackened catfish pairs with pickled mango, and spectacular Swedish meatballs salute Samuelsson’s home country.

The prix-fixe lunch is a bargain at $25.

Dinosaur Bar-B-QueBARBECUE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-694-1777; www.dinosaurbarbque.com; 700 W 125th St, at Twelfth Ave, Harlem; mains $13-32; h11:30am-11pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, noon-10pm Sun; b1 to 125th St)

Jocks, hipsters, moms and pops: everyone dives into this honky-tonk rib bar for a rockin’ feed. Get messy with dry-rubbed, slow-pit-smoked ribs, slabs of juicy steak and succulent burgers, or watch your waistline with the lightly seasoned grilled-chicken options. The (very) few vegetarian choices include a fantastic version of Creole-spiced deviled eggs.

Amy Ruth’s RestaurantAMERICAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-280-8779; www.amyruths.com; 113 W 116th St, btwn Malcolm X & Adam Clayton Powell Jr Blvds, Harlem; waffles $11-18, mains $14-25; h11am-11pm Mon, 8:30am-11pm Tue-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat, to 11pm Sun; bB, C, 2/3 to 116th St)

Perennially crowded Amy Ruth’s serves up classic Southern soul food, from fried catfish to mac ’n’ cheese and fluffy biscuits. But it’s the waffles that really merit a trip here – dished up 14 different ways, including with catfish. Our all-time favorite is the ‘Rev Al Sharpton,’ a plate of waffles topped with succulent fried chicken.

5Brooklyn

oSmorgasburgMARKET$

(www.smorgasburg.com; h11am-6pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct)

The largest foodie event in Brooklyn brings together more than 100 vendors selling an incredible array of goodness: Italian street snacks, duck confit, Indian flatbread tacos, roasted-mushroom burgers, vegan Ethiopian comfort food, sea-salt caramel ice cream, passion-fruit doughnuts, craft beer and much more. Smorgasburg locations tend to change from season to season, so check the website for the latest.

Most recently the Smorg has been held in Williamsburg (on the waterfront ( GOOGLE MAP ; %718-782-2731; www.parks.ny.gov/parks/155; Kent Ave, btwn 8th & 9th Sts, Williamsburg; h9am-dusk; bL to Bedford Ave)) on Saturdays and Prospect Park (near Lakeside) on Sundays from April to October, in addition to a smaller location in SoHo (Manhattan) that stays open through the end of December.

oDoughBAKERY$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %347-533-7544; www.doughdoughnuts.com; 448 Lafayette Ave, cnr Franklin Ave, Bedford-Stuyvesant; doughnuts around $3; h6am-9pm; W; bG to Classon Ave)

Situated on the border of Clinton Hill and Bed-Stuy, this tiny, out-of-the-way spot is a bit of a trek, but worth it if you're a pastry fan. Puffy raised doughnuts are dipped in a changing array of glazes, including pistachio, blood orange and hibiscus. Doughnut divinity for the tongue.

ChukoJAPANESE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %347-425-9570; www.chukobk.com; 565 Vanderbilt Ave, cnr Pacific St, Prospect Heights; ramen $15; hnoon-3pm & 5:30-11pm; v; bB/Q to 7th Ave; 2/3 to Bergen St)

This contemporary, minimalist ramen shop brings a top-notch noodle game to Prospect Heights. Steaming bowls of al dente ramen are paired with one of several spectacularly silky broths, including an excellent roasted pork and a full-bodied vegetarian. The appetizers are very worthwhile, particularly the fragrant salt-and-pepper chicken wings.

Nathan’s FamousHOT DOGS$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %718-333-2202; www.nathansfamous.com; 1310 Surf Ave, cnr Stillwell Ave, Coney Island; hot dog from $4; h10am-midnight; W; bD/F to Coney Island-Stillwell Ave)

The hot dog was invented in Coney Island in 1867, which means that eating a frankfurter is practically obligatory here. The top choice: Nathan’s Famous, which has been around since 1916. The hot dogs are the real deal, but the menu runs the gamut from fried clams to fried chicken fingers – yep, the emphasis is on fried.

Hungry GhostCAFE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %718-797-3595; www.hungryghostbrooklyn.com; 781 Fulton St, at S Oxford St, Fort Greene; sandwiches from $7, breakfasts from $3, coffees from $3; h7am-8pm; bC to Lafayette Ave, G to Fulton St)

In a few short years Hungry Ghost has made a name for itself as one of the best places to grab coffee in north Brooklyn. The interior of every location boasts a striking, minimalist design that matches the unpretentious flavor of its strong brew. The cafes also sell pastries, handmade sandwiches and other light coffee-shop fare.

If the small shop is full, grab your coffee to go and sit in the small triangular park just down the street.

Green Grape AnnexAMERICAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.greenegrape.com/annex; 753 Fulton St, at S Portland Ave, Fort Greene; mains $7-9; h7am-9pm Mon-Thu, 7am-10pm Fri, 8am-10pm Sat, 8am-9pm Sun; bG train to Fulton Ave. or C train to Lafayette Ave.)

Looking for a quick coffee – quality roasts that are perfectly brewed – or a hearty meal? The Green Grape Annex is well appointed cafe in Fort Greene that offers a wide array of food and beverage options in a large, airy space where it's rare to fight for space. In addition to coffee bar they also serve beer and wine.

67 BurgerBURGERS$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %718-797-7150; www.67burger.com; 67 Lafayette Ave, at S Elliott Pl, Fort Greene; specialty burgers $8-11; h11:30am-9pm Tue-Thu & Sun, to 10pm Fri & Sat; v; bG to Fulton St; C to Lafayette Ave; B/D, N/Q/R, 2/3, 4/5 to Atlantic Ave-Barclays Ctr)

If anyplace could give Shake Shack ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.shakeshack.com; 1 Old Fulton St, at Water St, Dumbo; burgers $5.50-10; h11am-11pm; bA/C to High St) a run for its money, it's 67 Burger. Choose a specialty burger, such as the Parisian (sautéed onions and mushrooms with Dijonnaise) or the Oaxaca (avocado, cheddar cheese and homemade chipotle mayo), or create your own big, beautiful, messy burger from a choice of beef, chicken, turkey, veggie or tofu patties.

67 Burger also offers milkshakes in…interesting…combinations, such as vanilla ice cream and Kelso beer, or chocolate ice cream and bacon. (We're told they're popular. Go figure.)

oPok PokTHAI$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %718-923-9322; www.pokpokny.com; 117 Columbia St, at Kane St, Columbia St Waterfront District; sharing plates $15-20; h5:30-10pm Mon-Fri, from noon Sat & Sun; bF to Bergen St)

Andy Ricker's NYC outpost is a smashing success, wowing diners with a rich, complex menu inspired by Northern Thailand street food. Fiery, fish-sauce-slathered chicken wings; spicy green-papaya salad with salted black crab; and smoky grilled eggplant salad and sweet pork belly with ginger, turmeric and tamarind are among the many unique dishes. The setting is fun and ramshackle. Reserve ahead.

Nick's Lobster HouseSEAFOOD$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %718-253-7117; www.nickslobsterhouse.com; 2777 Flatbush Ave, Mill Basin; mains starting at $18; h2pm-10pm Tue-Thu, noon-11pm Fri, 11am-11pm Sat, 11am-10pm Sun; gQ35 to Flatbush Ave/Marine Park Golf Course, b2, 5 to Flatbush Ave-Brooklyn College)

This charming eatery is located right on the water in the Mill Basin neighborhood of Brooklyn. The menu is simple, Northeast-style seafood, but the bisques, broils and, of course, lobster are all cooked to perfection. They have a full bar and gorgeous channel views from anywhere in the restaurant.

SidecarAMERICAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %718-369-0077; www.sidecarbrooklyn.com; 560 Fifth Ave, btwn 15th and 16th Sts, Park Slope; mains $14-27; h6pm-2am Mon-Wed, to 4am Thu, 3pm-4am Fri, 11am-4am Sat, to 2am Sun; bR to Prospect Ave)

Upscale classic American cuisine doesn't get much better than Sidecar. This atmospheric restaurant serves unfussy takes on classics that add a modern touch, such as fried chicken served with a savory root mash and sautéed kale with bacon on the side. Sidecar specializes in cocktails that you can pair with your meal, or enjoy on their own at the bar.

oZenkichiJAPANESE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %718-388-8985; www.zenkichi.com; 77 N 6th St, at Wythe Ave, Williamsburg; tasting menus vegetarian/regular $65/75; h6pm-midnight Mon-Sat, 5:30-11:30pm Sun; v; bL to Bedford Ave)

A temple of refined Japanese cuisine, Zenkichi presents beautifully prepared dishes in an atmospheric setting that has wowed foodies from far and wide. The recommendation here is the omakase, a seasonal eight-course tasting menu featuring highlights like salmon marinated and cured with shiso and basil and topped with caviar, or roasted Hudson Valley duck breast with seasonal vegetables.

RabbitholeMODERN AMERICAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %718-782-0910; www.rabbitholerestaurant.com; 352 Bedford Ave, btwn S 3rd & S 4th Sts, Williamsburg; mains breakfast & lunch $12-19, dinner $16-24; h9am-11pm; v; gB62 to S 4th St, bJ/Z, M to Marcy Ave)

A warm and inviting spot in South Williamsburg, the very charming Rabbithole is a fine spot to disappear into, particularly if you're craving breakfast (served till 5pm). There's casual cafe-seating up front for good coffee and even better house-made pastries. Head to the back or the relaxing rear garden for creamy eggs Benedict or fresh fruit and granola.

OleaMEDITERRANEAN$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %718-643-7003; www.oleabrooklyn.com; 171 Lafayette Ave, at Adelphi St, Fort Greene; mains brunch $13-19, dinner $20-32; h10am-11pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; v; bC to Lafayette Ave; G to Clinton-Washington Aves)

A bustling Mediterranean restaurant with charming interior design and world-class food. On the dinner menu Olea serves roasted whole branzino, creamy paellas and light, delicious vegetarian pastas; at brunch the kitchen specializes in Mediterranean spins on old standbys, such as lamb hash. A tapas menu offers tasty options for those looking for a less substantial meal.

Buttermilk ChannelAMERICAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %718-852-8490; www.buttermilkchannelnyc.com; 524 Court St, at Huntington St, Carroll Gardens; mains lunch $11-27, brunch $12-24, dinner $16-32; hlunch 11:30am-3pm Mon-Fri, brunch 10am-3pm Sat & Sun, dinner 5-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11:30pm Fri & Sat; bF, G to Smith-9th Sts)

There's nothing quite like crispy, buttermilk-fried chicken or a savory plate of eggs with lox and green onions. Buttermilk Channel (named for the waterway between Brooklyn and Governors Island) offers a range of simple, perfectly executed dishes. A comprehensive list of specialty cocktails – the brunch Bloody Mary menu alone is worth the visit – round out this delicious dining experience.

Union Square, Flatiron District & Gramercy

oFlatiron LoungeCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-727-7741; www.flatironlounge.com; 37 W 19th St, btwn Fifth & Sixth Aves, Flatiron District; h4pm-2am Mon-Wed, to 3am Thu, to 4am Fri, 5pm-4am Sat; W; bF/M, R/W, 6 to 23rd St)

Head through a dramatic archway and into a dark, swinging, art deco–inspired fantasy of lipstick-red booths, racy jazz tunes and sassy grown-ups downing seasonal drinks. Cocktails run $14 a pop, but happy-hour cocktails are only $10 (4pm to 6pm weekdays).

BirreriaBEER HALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-937-8910; www.eataly.com; 200 Fifth Ave, at W 23rd St, Flatiron District; h11:30am-11pm; bF/M, R/W, 6 to 23rd St)

The crown jewel of Italian food emporium Eataly is this rooftop beer garden tucked betwixt the Flatiron’s corporate towers. An encyclopedic beer menu offers drinkers some of the best suds on the planet. If you’re hungry, the signature beer-braised pork shoulder will pair nicely, or check out the seasonally changing menu of the on-site pop-up restaurant (mains $17 to $37).

The sneaky access elevator is near the checkouts on the 23rd St side of the store.

Raines Law RoomCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.raineslawroom.com; 48 W 17th St, btwn Fifth & Sixth Aves, Flatiron District; h5pm-2am Mon-Wed, to 3am Thu-Sat, 7pm-1am Sun; bF/M to 14th St, L to 6th Ave, 1 to 18th St)

A sea of velvet drapes and overstuffed leather lounge chairs, the perfect amount of exposed brick, expertly crafted cocktails using meticulously aged spirits – these folks are as serious as a mortgage payment when it comes to amplified atmosphere. Reservations (recommended) are only accepted Sunday to Tuesday. Whatever the night, style up for a taste of a far more sumptuous era.

Pete’s TavernBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-473-7676; www.petestavern.com; 129 E 18th St, at Irving Pl, Gramercy; h11am-2:30am Sun-Wed, until 3am Thu, until 4am Fri & Sat; b4/5/6, N/Q/R/W, L to 14th St-Union Sq)

With its original 19th-century mirrors, pressed-tin ceiling and rosewood bar, this dark, atmospheric watering hole has all the earmarks of a New York classic. You can get a respectable prime-rib burger here and choose from 17 draft beers, joined by everyone from post-theater couples and Irish expats to no-nonsense NYU students and the odd celebrity (see photos by the restrooms).

Old Town Bar & RestaurantBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-529-6732; www.oldtownbar.com; 45 E 18th St, btwn Broadway & Park Ave S, Union Square; h11:30am-11:30pm Mon-Fri, noon-11:30pm Sat, to 10pm Sun; b4/5/6, N/Q/R/W, L to 14th St-Union Sq)

It still looks like 1892 in here, with the mahogany bar, original tile floors and tin ceilings – the Old Town is an old-world drinking-man’s classic (and -woman’s: Madonna lit up at the bar here – when lighting up in bars was still legal – in her ‘Bad Girl’ video). There are cocktails around, but most come for beers and a burger (from $11.50).

Midtown

oBar SixtyFiveCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-632-5000; www.rainbowroom.com/bar-sixty-five; 30 Rockefeller Plaza, entrance on W 49th St; h5pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 4-9pm Sun; bB/D/F/M to 47th-50th Sts-Rockefeller Center)

Not to be missed, sophisticated SixtyFive sits on level 65 of the GE Building at Rockefeller Center. Dress well (no sportswear or guests under 21) and arrive by 5pm for a seat with a multi-million-dollar view. Even if you don't score a table on the balcony or by the window, head outside to soak up that sweeping New York panorama.

Flaming SaddlesGAY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-713-0481; www.flamingsaddles.com/nyc; 793 Ninth Ave, btwn 52nd & 53rd Sts, Midtown West; h3pm-4am Mon-Fri, noon-4am Sat & Sun; bC/E to 50th St)

A country-and-western gay bar in Midtown! Coyote Ugly meets Calamity Jane at this Hell's Kitchen hangout, complete with studly bar-dancing barmen in skintight jeans, aspiring urban cowboys and a rough 'n' ready vibe. Slip on them Wranglers or chaps and hit the Saddle: you're in for a fun and boozy ride. There's Tex Mex bar food if you get hungry.

TherapyGAY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-397-1700; www.therapy-nyc.com; 348 W 52nd St, btwn Eighth & Ninth Aves, Midtown West; h5pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; bC/E, 1 to 50th St)

Multilevel Therapy was the first gay men’s lounge/club to draw throngs to Hell’s Kitchen, and it still pulls a crowd with its nightly shows (from live music to interviews with Broadway stars) and decent grub served Sunday to Friday (the quesadillas are especially popular). Drink monikers match the theme: 'oral fixation' and 'size queen', to name a few.

RobertCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-299-7730; www.robertnyc.com; Museum of Arts & Design, 2 Columbus Circle, btwn Eighth Ave & Broadway; h11:30am-10pm Mon-Fri, from 10:30am Sat & Sun; bA/C, B/D, 1 to 59th St-Columbus Circle)

Perched on the 9th floor of the Museum of Arts & Design, ’60s-inspired Robert is technically a high-end, Modern American restaurant. While the food is satisfactory, we say visit late afternoon or post-dinner, find a sofa and gaze out over Central Park with a MAD Manhattan (bourbon, blood orange vermouth and liquored cherries). Check the website for live jazz sessions.

WaylonBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-265-0010; www.thewaylon.com; 736 Tenth Ave, at W 50th St; h4pm-4am Sun-Thu, noon-4am Fri & Sat; bC/E to 50th St)

Slip on your spurs, partner, there's a honky-tonk in Hell's! Celebrate Dixie at this saloon-style watering hole, where the jukebox keeps good folks dancing to Tim McGraw's broken heart, where the barkeeps pour American whiskeys and tequila, and where the grub includes Texan-style Frito pie and pulled pork sandwiches. For live country-and-western sounds, stop by some Thursdays between 8pm and 11pm.

Check the website for their live music schedule.

IndustryGAY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %646-476-2747; www.industry-bar.com; 355 W 52nd St, btwn Eighth & Ninth Aves; h5pm-4am; bC/E, 1 to 50th St)

What was once a parking garage is now one of the hottest gay bars in Hell's Kitchen – a slick, 4000-sq-ft watering hole with handsome lounge areas, a pool table and a stage for top-notch drag divas. Head in between 4pm and 9pm for the two-for-one drinks special or squeeze in later to party with the eye-candy party hordes. Cash only.

Top of the StrandCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %646-368-6426; www.topofthestrand.com; Marriott Vacation Club Pulse, 33 W 37th St, btwn Fifth & Sixth Aves, Midtown East; h5pm-midnight Mon & Sun, to 1am Tue-Sat; bB/D/F/M, N/Q,R to 34th St)

For that 'Oh my God, I'm in New York' feeling, head to the Marriott Vacation Club Pulse (formerly the Strand Hotel) hotel's rooftop bar, order a martini (extra dirty) and drop your jaw (discreetly). Sporting comfy cabana-style seating, a refreshingly mixed-age crowd and a sliding glass roof, its view of the Empire State Building is simply unforgettable.

Upper West Side & Central Park

oManhattan Cricket ClubLOUNGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %646-823-9252; www.mccnewyork.com; 226 W 79th St, btwn Amsterdam Ave & Broadway; h6pm-late; b1 to 79th St)

Above an Australian bistro (ask their host for access), this elegant drinking lounge is modeled on the classy Anglo-Aussie cricket clubs of the early 1900s. Sepia-toned photos of batsmen adorn the gold brocaded walls, while mahogany bookshelves and Chesterfield sofas create a fine setting for quaffing well-made (but pricey) cocktails. It's a guaranteed date-pleaser.

Dead PoetBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-595-5670; www.thedeadpoet.com; 450 Amsterdam Ave, btwn 81st & 82nd Sts; hnoon-4am; b1 to 79th St)

This narrow, mahogany-paneled pub is a neighborhood favorite. They take their Guinness pours seriously, and feature cocktails named after deceased masters of verse, including a Walt Whitman Long Island Iced Tea ($13) and a Pablo Neruda spiced-rum sangria ($12). Feeling adventurous? Order their signature cocktail ($15), a secret recipe of seven alcohols – you even get to keep the glass.

Upper East Side

Drunken MunkeyLOUNGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %646-998-4600; www.drunkenmunkeynyc.com; 338 E 92nd St, btwn First & Second Aves; h4:30pm-2am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri, 11am-3am Sat, to 2am Sun; bQ, 6 to 96th St)

This playful lounge channels colonial-era Bombay with vintage wallpaper, cricket-ball door handles and jauntily attired waitstaff. The monkey chandeliers may be pure whimsy, but the craft cocktails and tasty curries (small, meant for sharing) are serious business. Gin, not surprisingly, is the drink of choice. Try the Bramble: Bombay gin, blackberry liqueur and fresh lemon juice and blackberries.

Auction HouseBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-427-4458; www.theauctionhousenyc.com; 300 E 89th St, at Second Ave; h7:30pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; bQ to 86th St)

Dark maroon doors lead into a candlelit hangout that’s perfect for a relaxing drink. Victorian-style couches and fat, overstuffed easy chairs are strewn about the wood-floored rooms. Take your well-mixed cocktail to a seat by the fireplace and admire the scene reflected in the gilt-edged mirrors propped up on the walls.

Harlem & Upper Manhattan

Ginny’s Supper ClubCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-421-3821; www.ginnyssupperclub.com; 310 Malcolm X Blvd, btwn W 125th & 126th Sts, Harlem; h6pm-midnight Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat, brunch 10:30am-2pm Sun; b2/3 to 125th St)

Looking straight out of the TV series Boardwalk Empire, this roaring basement supper club is rarely short of styled-up regulars sipping cocktails, nibbling on soul and global bites (from Red Rooster's kitchen upstairs) and grooving to live jazz from 7:30pm Thursday to Saturday and DJ-spun beats from 11pm Friday and Saturday. Don’t miss the weekly Sunday gospel brunch (reservations recommended).

Brooklyn

oMaison PremiereCOCKTAIL BAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %347-335-0446; www.maisonpremiere.com; 298 Bedford Ave, btwn S 1st & Grand Sts, Williamsburg; h2pm-2am Mon-Wed, to 4am Thu & Fri, 11am-4am Sat, to 2am Sun; bL to Bedford Ave)

We kept expecting to see Dorothy Parker stagger into this old-timey place, which features an elegant bar full of syrups and essences, suspender-wearing bartenders and a jazzy soundtrack to further channel the French Quarter New Orleans vibe. The cocktails are serious business: the epic list includes more than a dozen absinthe drinks, various juleps and an array of specialty cocktails.

ExcelsiorGAY & LESBIAN

( GOOGLE MAP ; %718-788-2710; www.excelsiorbrooklyn.com; 563 Fifth Ave, btwn 15th & 16th Sts, Park Slope; h6pm-4am Mon-Fri, from 2pm Sat & Sun; bR to Prospect Ave)

This beloved neighborhood gay bar has reopened in a new location with a chic remodel that includes a back patio and upstairs event area that hosts dance parties, drag shows and karaoke. Excelsior tends to cater to an older crowd (although everyone is welcome, of course), and is known for its congenial atmosphere and hilarious bartenders.

Union HallBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %718-638-4400; www.unionhallny.com; 702 Union St, near Fifth Ave, Park Slope; drinks from $7; h4pm-4am Mon-Fri, 1pm-4am Sat-Sun; bR train to Union St)

Anyone looking for an authentically Brooklyn night out should look no further than Union Hall. This bar and event space is located in a converted warehouse and boasts a double-sided fireplace, towering bookshelves, leather couches and two full-size indoor bocce ball courts. Head to the basement for live music and comedy.

Spuyten DuyvilBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %718-963-4140; www.spuytenduyvilnyc.com; 359 Metropolitan Ave, btwn Havemeyer & Roebling Sts, Williamsburg; h5pm-2am Mon-Fri, noon-3am Sat, to 2am Sun; bL to Lorimer St; G to Metropolitan Ave)

This low-key Williamsburg bar looks like it was pieced together from a rummage sale, with red-painted ceilings, vintage maps on the walls and what looks like thrift-store furniture. But the selection of beer and wine is staggering, the locals from various eras are chatty and there’s a large backyard with leafy trees that's open in good weather.

Skinny DennisBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.skinnydennisbar.com; 152 Metropolitan Ave, at Berry St, Williamsburg; hnoon-4am; bL to Bedford Ave)

No need to fly to Austin – you can get your honky-tonk on right here in Brooklyn at this roadhouse saloon on bustling Metropolitan Ave. Aside from Kinky Friedman posters, a reverential painting of Willie Nelson, peanut shells on the floor and a Patsy Cline–heavy jukebox in the corner, you'll find country crooners playing nightly to a garrulous, beer-swilling crowd.

Bossa Nova Civic ClubCLUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; %718-443-1271; 1271 Myrtle Ave, at Hart St, Bushwick; h5pm-4am Mon-Sat, to midnight Sun; bM to Central Ave)

Yet another reason why you never need to leave Brooklyn, this smallish hole-in-the-wall club is a great place to get your groove on, with DJs spinning a wide mix of sounds in a (somewhat) tropical-themed interior. Great sound system, fairly priced drinks (at least as far as clubs are concerned) and snacks available when hunger strikes (empanadas, slow-cooked pork, arepas).

Radegast Hall & BiergartenBEER HALL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %718-963-3973; www.radegasthall.com; 113 N 3rd St, at Berry St, Williamsburg; hnoon-3am Mon-Fri, from 11am Sat & Sun; bL to Bedford Ave)

An Austro-Hungarian beer hall in Williamsburg offers up a huge selection of Bavarian brews, and a kitchen full of munchable meats. You can hover in the dark, woody bar area or sit in the adjacent hall, which has a retractable roof and communal tables to feast at – perfect for pretzels, sausages and burgers. Live music every night; no cover.

5Queens

oBohemian Hall & Beer GardenBEER GARDEN

( GOOGLE MAP ; %718-274-4925; www.bohemianhall.com; 29-19 24th Ave, Astoria; h5pm-1am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri, noon-3am Sat, noon-midnight Sun; bN/Q to Astoria Blvd)

This Czech community center kicked off NYC's beer-garden craze, and nothing quite matches it for space and heaving drinking crowds, which pack every picnic table under the towering trees in summer. There's obligatory food (dumplings, sausages); the focus is on the cold and foamy Czech beers. Some nights folk bands set up, with the occasional cover charge of $5.

Dutch KillsBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %718-383-2724; www.dutchkillsbar.com; 27-24 Jackson Ave, Long Island City; h5pm-2am; bE, M, or R train to Queens Plaza, G train to Court Sq)

When you step into Dutch Kills – through an unassuming door on an old industrial building in Long Island City – you are stepping back in time. This speakeasy style bar is all about atmosphere and amazing craft cocktails. Their menu of specialty drinks is extensive, but if you're looking for an old standard, you can trust the expert bartenders to deliver.

Icon BarGAY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %917-832-6364; www.iconastoria.com; 31-84 33rd St, Astoria; h5pm-4am; bN/W train to Broadway station)

New York's famous gay nightlife scene doesn't end once you leave Manhattan. Icon Bar brings strong drinks and flirtatious ambiance to Astoria, Queens. They frequently host special DJ nights and drag shows, as well as a 2-for-1 happy hour on weekday evenings. All great reasons to head across the river.

3Entertainment

Actors, musicians, dancers and artists flock to the bright lights of the Big Apple, hoping to finally get that big break. The result? Audiences are spoiled by the continual influx of supremely talented, dedicated, boundary-pushing performers. Like the saying goes: if you can make it here, you can make it anywhere.

Live Music

Minton’sJAZZ

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-243-2222; www.mintonsharlem.com; 206 W 118th St, btwn St Nicholas Ave & Adam Clayton Powell Jr Blvd; $10-15; h6-11pm Wed-Sat, noon-3pm & 6-10pm Sun; bB/C, 2/3 to 116th St)

Birthplace of bebop, this Harlem jazz-and-dinner club is a formal spot for catching live music. Everyone from Dizzy Gillespie to Louis Armstrong has jammed here, and dinner (mains $22 to $42) in its tinted-mirror-lined dining room is an experience to behold. Book ahead, dress to impress and savor Southern flavors while catching live, honey-sweet jazz.

oJazz at Lincoln CenterJAZZ

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %tickets to Dizzy's Club Coca-Cola 212-258-9595, tickets to Rose Theater & Appel Room 212-721-6500; www.jazz.org; Time Warner Center, 10 Columbus Circle, Broadway at W 59th St; bA/C, B/D, 1 to 59th St-Columbus Circle)

Perched atop the Time Warner Center, Jazz at Lincoln Center consists of three state-of-the-art venues: the mid-sized Rose Theater; the panoramic, glass-backed Appel Room; and the intimate, atmospheric Dizzy's Club Coca-Cola. It's the last of these that you're most likely to visit, given its nightly shows. The talent is often exceptional, as are the dazzling Central Park views.

oCarnegie HallLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-247-7800; www.carnegiehall.org; 881 Seventh Ave, at W 57th St; htours 11:30am, 12:30pm, 2pm & 3pm Mon-Fri, 11:30am & 12:30pm Sat Oct-Jun; bN/R/W to 57th St-7th Ave)

Few venues are as famous as Carnegie Hall. This legendary music hall may not be the world's biggest, nor grandest, but it's definitely one of the most acoustically blessed venues around. Opera, jazz and folk greats feature in the Isaac Stern Auditorium, with edgier jazz, pop, classical and world music in the popular Zankel Hall. The intimate Weill Recital Hall hosts chamber-music concerts, debut performances and panel discussions.

New York PhilharmonicCLASSICAL MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-875-5656; www.nyphil.org; Lincoln Center, Columbus Ave at W 65th St; c; b1 to 66 St-Lincoln Center)

The oldest professional orchestra in the US (dating back to 1842) holds its season every year at David Geffen Hall (known as Avery Fisher until 2015); newly installed music director Jaap van Zweden took over from Alan Gilbert in 2017. The orchestra plays a mix of classics (Tchaikovsky, Mahler, Haydn) and contemporary works, as well as concerts geared towards children.

Blue NoteJAZZ

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-475-8592; www.bluenote.net; 131 W 3rd St, btwn Sixth Ave & MacDougal St, West Village; bA/C/E, B/D/F/M to W 4th St-Washington Sq)

This is by far the most famous (and expensive) of the city’s jazz clubs. Most shows are $15 to $30 at the bar or $25 to $45 at a table, but can rise for the biggest stars. There's also jazz brunch on Sundays at 11:30am. Go on an off night, and don't talk – all attention is on the stage!

Joe’s PubLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-539-8778, tickets 212-967-7555; www.joespub.com; Public Theater, 425 Lafayette St, btwn Astor Pl & 4th St, NoHo; b6 to Astor Pl; R/W to 8th St-NYU)

Part bar, part cabaret and performance venue, intimate Joe's serves up both emerging acts and top-shelf performers. Past entertainers have included Patti LuPone, Amy Schumer, the late Leonard Cohen and British songstress Adele (in fact, it was right here that Adele gave her very first American performance, back in 2008).

Irving PlazaLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-777-6817; www.irvingplaza.com; 17 Irving Pl, at 15th St, Union Square; b4/5/6, N/Q/R, L to 14th St-Union Sq)

Rocking since 1978, Irving Plaza has seen them all: the Ramones, Bob Dylan, U2, Pearl Jam, you name it. These days it’s a great in-between stage for quirkier rock and pop acts – from indie chicks Sleater-Kinney to hard rockers Disturbed. There’s a cozy floor around the stage, and good views from the mezzanine.

Brooklyn BowlLIVE MUSIC

( GOOGLE MAP ; %718-963-3369; www.brooklynbowl.com; 61 Wythe Ave, btwn N 11th & N 12th Sts, Williamsburg; h6pm-midnight Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu & Fri, 11am-2am Sat, to midnight Sun; bL to Bedford Ave; G to Nassau Ave)

A 23,000-sq-ft venue inside the former Hecla Iron Works Company combines bowling ( GOOGLE MAP ; %718-963-3369; www.brooklynbowl.com; 61 Wythe Ave, btwn N 11th & N 12th Sts, Williamsburg; lane rentals per 30min $25, shoe rentals $5; h6pm-2am Mon-Fri, from 11am Sat & Sun; c; bL to Bedford Ave; G to Nassau Ave), microbrews, food and top-notch music. In addition to the live bands (and occasional DJs) that regularly tear up the stage, there are NFL game days, karaoke and DJ nights. It's age 21 and up, except for 'family bowl' time on weekends (11am to 5pm Saturday, to 6pm Sunday).

Bell HouseLIVE PERFORMANCE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %718-643-6510; www.thebellhouseny.com; 149 7th St, btwn Second & Third Aves, Gowanus; h5pm-late; W; bF, G, R to 4th Ave-9th St)

A large, old venue in a mostly barren area of industrial Gowanus, the Bell House features high-profile live performances, indie rockers, DJ nights, comedy shows and burlesque parties. The handsomely converted warehouse has a spacious concert area, plus a friendly little bar in the front room with flickering candles, leather armchairs and 10 or so beers on tap.

Sports

Madison Square GardenSPECTATOR SPORT, CONCERT VENUE

(MSG, 'the Garden'; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thegarden.com; 4 Pennsylvania Plaza, Seventh Ave, btwn 31st & 33rd Sts; bA/C/E, 1/2/3 to 34th St-Penn Station)

NYC's major performance venue – part of the massive complex housing Penn Station – hosts big-arena performers, from Kanye West to Madonna. It’s also a sports arena, with New York Knicks (www.nba.com/knicks.com) and New York Liberty (www.liberty.wnba.com) basketball games and New York Rangers (www.nhl.com/rangers) hockey games, as well as boxing and events like the Annual Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show.

USTA Billie Jean King National Tennis CenterSPECTATOR SPORT

( GOOGLE MAP ; %718-760-6200; www.usta.com; Flushing Meadows Corona Park, Corona; h6am-midnight; b7 to Mets-Willets Pt)

The US Open, one of the city's premier sporting events, takes place in late August. As of 2016, the Arthur Ashe Stadium (capacity 23,771) now has a retractable roof, there's a new stadium (the Grandstand, which replaced the Old Grandstand), and outer courts have been renovated. Tickets usually go on sale at Ticketmaster in April or May, but are hard to get for marquee games. General admission to early rounds is easier.

Staten Island YankeesBASEBALL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %718-720-9265; www.siyanks.com; Richmond County Bank Ballpark, 75 Richmond Tce; tickets $12; hticket office 9am-5pm Mon-Fri; fStaten Island)

These Yanks have been champions of the New York–Penn title four times since 2005 alone. If you don’t catch a fly ball, you can at least catch some high-scoring Manhattan skyline views from the waterfront stadium. It’s a 0.3-mile walk north of the ferry terminal and the construction site of a gigantic Ferris wheel scheduled to open in 2018.

Theater

oAl Hirschfeld TheatreTHEATER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %tickets 877-250-2929; www.kinkybootsthemusical.com; 302 W 45th St, btwn Eighth & Ninth Aves; hbox office 10am-8pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; bA/C/E to 42nd St-Port Authority Bus Terminal)

Originally the Martin Beck Theatre, this spectacular building was renamed in 2003 when it was purchased from the Beck family. When it opened in 1924 to great acclaim, it proceeded to be the venue for some of Broadway's best-loved shows for decades, including Pirates of Penzance, Romeo and Juliet, The Crucible, Guys and Dolls, Hair, and many more. Vast and opulent, it has seating over 1400 for performances, with as many as 200 dressing rooms for actors backstage.

oEugene O'Neill TheatreTHEATER

(Book of Mormon; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %tickets 212-239-6200; www.bookofmormonbroadway.com; 230 W 49th St, btwn Broadway & Eighth Ave; bN/R/W to 49th St, 1 to 50th St, C/E to 50th St)

The Eugene O'Neill Theatre's shows have ranged from family-friendly Annie all the way to uproarious The Best Little Whorehouse in Texas, with nearly as wild an ownership ride as well – bought and sold numerous times over its nearly a century lifetime. It was originally the Forrest Theatre, then the Coronet Theatre, and was finally christened the Eugene O'Neill Theatre in 1959. Among the factoids, playwright Neil Simon owned it before selling in 1982 to its current owners.

oRichard Rodgers TheatreTHEATER

(Hamilton; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %tickets 877-250-2929; www.hamiltonmusical.com; 226 W 46th St, btwn Seventh & Eighth Aves; bN/R/W to 49th St)

This theater opened in 1926 and is unique for several reasons. One, it was the first to allow all patrons to enter through the same set of doors (there were separate entrances for the less expensive ticket-holders, aka riff-raff, to come through). It also has the honor of being the venue for the highest number of Best Play and Best Musical Tony Awards.

Sleep No MoreTHEATER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %866-811-4111; www.sleepnomorenyc.com; 530 W 27th St, btwn Tenth & Eleventh Aves, Chelsea; tickets from $105; h7pm-midnight Mon-Sat; b1, C/E to 23rd St)

One of the most immersive theater experiences ever conceived, Sleep No More is a loosely based retelling of Macbeth set inside a series of Chelsea warehouses that have been redesigned to look like the 1930s-era McKittrick Hotel and its hopping jazz bar.

It’s a choose-your-own adventure kind of experience, where audience members are free to wander the elaborate rooms (ballroom, graveyard, taxidermy shop, lunatic asylum) and follow or interact with the actors, who perform a variety of scenes that can run from the bizarre to the risqué. Be prepared: you must check in everything when you arrive (jackets, bag, cell phone), and you must wear a mask, à la Eyes Wide Shut.

Playwrights HorizonsTHEATER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-564-1235; www.playwrightshorizons.org; 416 W 42nd St, btwn Ninth & Tenth Aves, Midtown West; bA/C/E to 42nd St-Port Authority Bus Terminal)

An excellent place to catch what could be the next big thing, this veteran ‘writers’ theater’ is dedicated to fostering contemporary American works. Notable past productions include Kenneth Lonergan's Lobby Hero, Bruce Norris’ Tony Award–winning Clybourne Park, as well as Doug Wright's I Am My Own Wife and Grey Gardens.

BAM Harvey TheaterTHEATER

(Harvey Lichtenstein Theater; GOOGLE MAP ; %718-636-4100; www.bam.org; 651 Fulton St, near Rockwell Pl, Fort Greene; bB, Q/R to DeKalb Ave; 2/3, 4/5 to Nevins St)

This theater, one of NYC's most important cultural institutions, has hosted long runs by important artists like Tony Kushner, Peter Brook and Laurie Anderson. The building itself is a striking combination of ornate and elegant with gritty and industrial – so very Brooklyn. (The balcony seats, narrow and elevated, aren't the most comfortable, though, and some have obstructed sight lines.)

oFlea TheaterTHEATER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %tickets 212-226-0051; www.theflea.org; 20 Thomas St, btwn Church St & Broadway; c; bA/C, 1/2/3 to Chambers St; R/W to City Hall)

One of NYC's top off-off-Broadway companies, Flea is famous for staging innovative and timely new works. A brand-new location offers three performance spaces, including one named for devoted alum Sigourney Weaver. The year-round program also includes music and dance productions, as well as shows for young audiences (aged five and up) and a rollicking late-night competition series of 10-minute plays.

Delacorte TheaterTHEATER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.publictheater.org; Central Park, enter at W 81st St; bB, C to 81st St)

Every summer the Joseph Papp Public Theater presents its fabulous free productions of Shakespeare in the Park at Delacorte Theater, which Papp began back in 1954, before the lovely, leafy, open-air theater was even built. Productions are usually superb, but regardless of their quality, it's a magical experience and waiting in line for tickets is a rite of passage for newcomers to the city.

Ambassador TheatreTHEATER

(Chicago; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %tickets 212-239-6200; www.chicagothemusical.com; 219 W 49th St, btwn Broadway & Eighth Ave; bN/R/W to 49th St, 1, C/E to 50th St)

A New York landmark, the Ambassador Theatre, constructed in the 1920s, is curiously built kitty-corner on the lot, enabling the small space to have more seating. Like many of its peers it was sold in the ’30s by the owners, the Schuberts, and became a mixed-use property for TV and movies, but was eventually repurchased by the family in 1956. Since then it has remained a theatre, and currently is the venue for Chicago, one of Broadway's most popular shows.

It's a little easier to score tickets to Chicago than some of the newer musicals. This Bob Fosse/Kander & Ebb classic tells the story of showgirl Velma Kelly, wannabe Roxie Hart, lawyer Billy Flynn and the fabulously sordid goings-on of the Chicago underworld. Revived by director Walter Bobbie, its sassy, infectious energy more than makes up for the tight-squeeze seating.

New York Theatre WorkshopTHEATER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-460-5475; www.nytw.org; 79 E 4th St, btwn Second & Third Aves, East Village; bF to 2nd Ave)

For more than 30 years this innovative production house has been a treasure trove for those seeking cutting-edge, contemporary plays with purpose. It was the originator of two big Broadway hits, Rent and Urinetown – plus it's where the musical Once had its off-Broadway premiere – and offers a constant supply of high-quality drama.

La MaMa ETCTHEATER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-352-3101; www.lamama.org; 74a E 4th St, btwn Bowery & Second Ave, East Village; tickets from $20; bF to 2nd Ave)

A long-standing home for onstage experimentation (the ETC stands for Experimental Theater Club), La MaMa is now a three-theater complex with a cafe, an art gallery, and a separate studio building that features cutting-edge dramas, sketch comedy and readings of all kinds. Ten $10 tickets are available for each show. Book early to score a deal!

Comedy

oUpright Citizens Brigade TheatreCOMEDY

(UCB; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-366-9176; www.ucbtheatre.com; 555 W 42nd St, btwn Tenth & Eleventh Aves, Hell's Kitchen; free-$10; h7pm-midnight; bA/C/E to 42nd St-Port Authority)

Comedy sketch shows and improv reign at the new location of the legendary venue, which gets drop-ins from casting directors and often features well-known figures from TV. Getting in is cheap, and so are the beer and wine. You'll find quality shows happening nightly, from about 7:30pm, though the Sunday-night Asssscat Improv session is always a riot.

Comedy CellarCOMEDY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-254-3480; www.comedycellar.com; 117 MacDougal St, btwn W 3rd St & Minetta Ln, West Village; cover $8-24; bA/C/E, B/D/F/M to W 4th St-Washington Sq)

This long-established basement comedy club in Greenwich Village features mainstream material and a good list of regulars (Colin Quinn, Judah Friedlander, Wanda Sykes), plus occasional high-profile drop-ins like Dave Chappelle, Jerry Seinfeld and Amy Schumer. Its success continues: Comedy Cellar now boasts another location at the Village Underground around the corner on W 3rd St.

In addition to the cover there is a two-item (food or drinks) minimum per show.

Caroline’s on BroadwayCOMEDY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-757-4100; www.carolines.com; 1626 Broadway, at 50th St, Midtown West; bN/Q/R to 49th St; 1, C/E to 50th St)

You may recognize this big, bright, mainstream classic from comedy specials filmed here on location. It's a top spot to catch US comedy big guns and sitcom stars.

Cinemas

Film Society of Lincoln CenterCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-875-5367; www.filmlinc.com; Lincoln Center; b1 to 66th St-Lincoln Center)

The Film Society is one of New York’s cinematic gems, providing an invaluable platform for a wide gamut of documentary, feature, independent, foreign and avant-garde art pictures. Films screen in one of two facilities at Lincoln Center: the Elinor Bunin Munroe Film Center ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-875-5232; www.filmlinc.com; Lincoln Center, 144 W 65th St, btwn Broadway & Amsterdam Ave; b1 to 66 St-Lincoln Center), a more intimate, experimental venue, or the Walter Reade Theater, with wonderfully wide, screening room–style seats.

MetrographCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-660-0312; www.metrograph.com; 7 Ludlow St, btwn Canal & Hester Sts, Lower East Side; tickets $15; bF to East Broadwy, B/D to Grand St)

The newest movie mecca for downtown cinephiles, this two-screen theater with red velvet seats shows curated art-house flicks. Most you'll never find at any multiplex, though the odd mainstream pic like Magic Mike is occasionally screened. In addition to movie geeks browsing the bookstore, you'll find a stylish and glamorous set at the bar or in the upstairs restaurant.

Film ForumCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-727-8110; www.filmforum.com; 209 W Houston St, btwn Varick St & Sixth Ave, SoHo; hnoon-midnight; b1 to Houston St)

Plans are in the works to expand to four screens, but for now Film Forum is still a three-screen nonprofit cinema with an astounding array of independent films, revivals and career retrospectives from greats such as Orson Welles. Theaters are small, so get there early for a good viewing spot. Showings often include director talks or other film-themed discussions for hardcore cinephiles.

Walter Reade TheaterCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-875-5601; www.filmlinc.com; Lincoln Center, 165 W 65th St, btwn Broadway & Amsterdam Ave; b1 to 66th St-Lincoln Center)

The Walter Reade boasts some wonderfully wide, screening-room–style seats. Every September it hosts the New York Film Festival, featuring plenty of New York and world premieres. At other times of the year you can catch independent films, career retrospectives and themed series.

Anthology Film ArchivesCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-505-5181; www.anthologyfilmarchives.org; 32 Second Ave, at 2nd St, East Village; bF to 2nd Ave)

Opened in 1970, this theater is dedicated to the idea of film as an art form. It screens indie works by new filmmakers and revives classics and obscure oldies, from the surrealist works of Spanish director Luis Buñuel to Ken Brown’s psychedelia.

Performing Arts

Metropolitan Opera HouseOPERA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %tickets 212-362-6000, tours 212-769-7028; www.metopera.org; Lincoln Center, Columbus Ave at W 64th St; b1 to 66th St-Lincoln Center)

New York’s premier opera company is the place to see classics such as Carmen, Madame Butterfly and Macbeth, not to mention Wagner’s Ring Cycle. It also hosts premieres and revivals of more contemporary works, such as John Adams’ The Death of Klinghoffer. The season runs from September to April.

New York City BalletDANCE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-496-0600; www.nycballet.com; Lincoln Center, Columbus Ave at W 63rd St; c; b1 to 66th St-Lincoln Center)

This prestigious ballet company was first directed by renowned Russian-born choreographer George Balanchine back in the 1940s. Today, the company has 90 dancers and is the largest ballet organization in the US, performing 23 weeks a year at Lincoln Center’s David H Koch Theater. During the holidays the troupe is best known for its annual production of The Nutcracker.

DuplexCABARET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-255-5438; www.theduplex.com; 61 Christopher St, at Seventh Ave S, West Village; cover $10-25; h4pm-4am; b1 to Christopher St-Sheridan Sq; A/C/E, B/D/F/M to W 4th St-Washington Sq)

Cabaret, karaoke and campy dance moves are par for the course at the legendary Duplex. Pictures of Joan Rivers line the walls, and the performers like to mimic her sassy form of self-deprecation while getting in a few jokes about audience members as well. It's a fun and unpretentious place, and certainly not for the bashful.

Joyce TheaterDANCE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-691-9740; www.joyce.org; 175 Eighth Ave, at W 19th St, Chelsea; b1 to 18th St; 1, C/E to 23rd St; A/C/E, L to 8th Ave-14th St)

A favorite among dance junkies thanks to its excellent sight lines and offbeat offerings, this is an intimate venue, seating 472 in a renovated cinema. Its focus is on traditional modern companies, such as Martha Graham, Stephen Petronio Company and Parsons Dance, as well as global stars, such as Dance Brazil, Ballet Hispanico and MalPaso Dance Company.

7Shopping

Not surprisingly for a capital of commercialism, creativity and fashion, New York City is quite simply one of the best shopping destinations on the planet. Every niche is filled. From indie designer-driven boutiques to landmark department stores, thrift shops to haute couture, record stores to the Apple store, antiques to edible gourmet groceries, it’s quite easy to blow one's budget.

Brooklyn

Brooklyn FleaMARKET

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.brooklynflea.com; 80 Pearl St, Manhattan Bridge Archway, Anchorage Pl at Water St, Dumbo; h10am-6pm Sun Apr-Oct; c; gB67 to York/Jay Sts, bF to York St)

Every Sunday from spring through early fall, several dozen vendors sell their wares inside a giant archway under the Manhattan Bridge, ranging from antiques, records and vintage clothes to craft items, housewares and furniture. A slightly smaller indoor version, with around 60 vendors, runs every Saturday and Sunday (10am to 6pm) in SoHo (Sixth Ave at Watt St).

Brooklyn Flea has a habit of moving around Brooklyn (previous seasons have been in Fort Greene and Williamsburg), so be sure to check the website for that season's location before you head out.

Beacon's ClosetVINTAGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %718-486-0816; www.beaconscloset.com; 74 Guernsey St, btwn Nassau & Norman Aves, Greenpoint; h11am-8pm; bL to Bedford Ave; G to Nassau Ave)

Twenty-something groovers find this massive 5500-sq-ft warehouse of vintage clothing part goldmine, part grit. Lots of coats, polyester tops and ’90s-era T-shirts are displayed by color, but the sheer mass can take time to conquer. You'll also find shoes of all sorts, flannels, hats, handbags, chunky jewelry and brightly hued sunglasses. There are other branches in Bushwick ( GOOGLE MAP ; %718-417-5683; www.beaconscloset.com; 23 Bogart St, btwn Varet & Cook Sts, Bushwick; h11am-8pm; bL to Morgan Ave) and Park Slope ( GOOGLE MAP ; %718-230-1630; www.beaconscloset.com; 92 Fifth Ave, cnr Warren St, Park Slope; hnoon-9pm Mon-Fri, 11am-8pm Sat & Sun; b2/3 to Bergen St; B, Q to 7th Ave).

Rough TradeMUSIC

( GOOGLE MAP ; %718-388-4111; www.roughtradenyc.com; 64 N 9th St, btwn Kent & Wythe Aves, Williamsburg; h11am-11pm Mon-Sat, to 9pm Sun; W; bL to Bedford Ave)

This sprawling, 10,000-sq-ft record store – a London import – stocks thousands of titles on vinyl and CD, plus some music-themed indie books and magazines. It also has in-store DJs, listening stations, art exhibitions, and coffee and doughnuts from the on-site Brompton Bike Cafe. A small concert hall onsite hosts live music regularly (admission generally $10 to $20). Free table tennis upstairs.

Downtown

oStrand Book StoreBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-473-1452; www.strandbooks.com; 828 Broadway, at E 12th St, West Village; h9:30am-10:30pm Mon-Sat, from 11am Sun; bL, N/Q/R/W, 4/5/6 to 14th St-Union Sq)

Beloved and legendary, the iconic Strand embodies downtown NYC's intellectual bona fides – a bibliophile's Oz, where generations of book lovers carrying the store's trademark tote bags happily lose themselves for hours. In operation since 1927, the Strand sells new, used and rare titles, spreading an incredible 18 miles of books (over 2.5 million of them) among three labyrinthine floors.

Screaming Mimi’sVINTAGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-677-6464; www.screamingmimis.com; 240 W 14th St, btwn Seventh & Eighth Aves, Chelsea; hnoon-8pm Mon-Sat, 1-7pm Sun; bA/C/E, L to 8th Ave-14th St)

If you dig vintage threads, you may just scream, too. This funtastic shop carries an excellent selection of yesteryear pieces, organized – ingeniously – by decade, from the ’50s to the ’90s. (Ask to see the small, stashed-away collection of clothing from the 1920s through '40s.)

Evolution Nature StoreGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-343-1114; www.theevolutionstore.com; 687 Broadway, btwn W 3rd & W 4th Sts; h11am-8pm; bR/W to 8th Ave-NYU; 6 to Astor Pl)

In the market for a shrunken head? Perhaps a dried scarab beetle? This SoHo favorite has display cases full of strange finds from all over the world. The store is cavernous and often busy, especially on weekends when people doing the SoHo boutique crawl wander in to ogle the oddities.

Obscura AntiquesANTIQUES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-505-9251; www.obscuraantiques.com; 207 Ave A, btwn E 12th & 13th Sts, East Village; hnoon-8pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun; bL to 1st Ave)

This small cabinet of curiosities pleases both lovers of the macabre and inveterate antique hunters. Here you’ll find taxidermied animal heads, tiny rodent skulls and skeletons, butterfly displays in glass boxes, Victorian-era post-mortum photography, disturbing little (dental?) instruments, German landmine flags (stackable so tanks could see them), old poison bottles and glass eyes.

Midtown

Grand Central MarketMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.grandcentralterminal.com/market; Grand Central Terminal, Lexington Ave, at 42nd St, Midtown East; h7am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat, 11am-6pm Sun; bS, 4/5/6, 7 to Grand Central-42nd St)

It's not all arrivals and departures at Grand Central. The station also harbors a 240ft corridor lined with perfectly coiffed fresh produce and artisan treats. Stock up on anything from crusty bread and fruit tarts to lobsters, chicken pot pies, Spanish quince paste, fruit and vegetables, and roasted coffee beans. There’s even a Murray’s Cheese stall, peddling milky wonders like cave-aged Gruyère.

Hell’s Kitchen Flea MarketMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-220-0239; www.annexmarkets.com/hells-kitchen-foundation; W 39th St, btwn Ninth & Tenth Aves; h9am-5pm Sat & Sun; bA/C/E to 42nd St-Port Authority Bus Terminal)

This weekend flea market lures both collectors and the common curious with its wonderful booty of vintage furnishings, accessories, clothing and unidentifiable objects from past eras.

Uptown

Flamekeepers Hat ClubFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %212-531-3542; 273 W 121st St, at St Nicholas Ave; hnoon-7pm Tue & Wed, to 8pm Thu-Sat, to 6pm Sun; bA/C, B/D to 125th St)

Polish your look at this sassy little hat shop owned by affable Harlem local Marc Williamson. His carefully curated stock is a hat lover’s dream: soft Barbisio fedoras from Italy, Selentino top hats from the Czech Republic, and woolen patchwork caps from Ireland’s Hanna Hats of Donegal. Prices range from $90 to $350, with optional customization for true individualists.

Flying Tiger CopenhagenHOMEWARES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %646-998-4755; www.flyingtiger.com; 424 Columbus Ave, btwn 80th & 81st Sts; h10am-8pm Mon-Sun; c; bB, C to 81st St-Museum of Natural History)

In the market for well-designed, quirky and inexpensive doodads and tchotchkes? This Danish import will scratch that itch. Something of a miniature Ikea, with items grouped thematically (kitchen, kids, arts and crafts, etc) – you could never have imagined the things you didn't know you needed. Remove the price tag and friends will think you've spent too much on a gift.

8Information

Internet Access

Most public parks in the city now offer free wi-fi. Some prominent ones include the High Line, Bryant Park, Battery Park, Central Park, City Hall Park, Madison Square Park, Tompkins Square Park and Union Square Park (Brooklyn and Queens are also well covered). For other locations, check out www.nycgovparks.org/facilities/wifi.

Even underground subway stations now offer free wi-fi, offering a way to pass time or get work done while waiting for signal problems or other delays to be resolved. LinkNYC (www.link.nyc), rolled out in 2016 to replace anachronistic pay phones (once iconic symbols of the city and where Superman changed into his suit) with free internet connected kiosks, replete with charging stations and wi-fi access. The network aims to install some 7500 of these structures throughout the five boroughs.

It’s rare to find accommodations in New York City that don’t offer wi-fi, though it isn’t always free. Most cafes offer wi-fi for customers, as do the ubiquitous Starbucks around town.

Medical Services

Emergency services can be stress-inducing and slow (unless your medical condition is absolutely dire); a visit should be avoided if other medical services can be provided to mitigate the situation.

New York-Presbyterian Hospital ( GOOGLE MAP ; %212-305-2500; www.nyp.org/locations/newyork-presbyterian-columbia-university-medical-center; 630 W 168th St, at Ft Washington Ave; bA/C, 1 to 168th St) Reputable hospital.

Bellevue Hospital Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %212-562-4141; www.nychealthandhospitals.org/bellevue; 462 First Ave, at 27th St, Midtown East; b6 to 28th St) Major public hospital with emergency room and trauma center.

New York County Medical Society (%212-684-4670; www.nycms.org) Provides doctor referrals over the phone, based on type of problem and language spoken.

Tisch Hospital (New York University Langone Medical Center; GOOGLE MAP ; %212-263-5800; www.nyulangone.org/locations/tisch-hospital; 550 First Ave; h24hr) Large, state-of-the-art facility with highly regarded departments in every critical care specialty.

Callen-Lorde Community Health Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %212-271-7200; www.callen-lorde.org; 356 W 18th St, btwn Eighth & Ninth Aves; h8:15am-8:15pm Mon-Thu, to 4:45pm Fri, 8:30-3:15pm Sat; bA/C/E, L to 8th Ave-14th St) This medical center, dedicated to the LGBT community and people living with HIV/AIDS, serves people regardless of their ability to pay.

Lenox Hill Hospital ( GOOGLE MAP ; %212-434-2000; www.northwell.edu/find-care/locations/lenox-hill-hospital; 100 E 77th St, at Lexington Ave; h24hr; b6 to 77th St) A good hospital with a 24-hour emergency room and multilingual translators in the Upper East Side.

Mount Sinai Hospital ( GOOGLE MAP ; %212-241-6500; www.mountsinai.org/locations/mount-sinai; 1468 Madison Ave, at E 101st St; h24hr; b6 to 103rd St) An excellent hospital in the Upper East Side.

Planned Parenthood (Margaret Sanger Center; GOOGLE MAP ; %212-965-7000; www.plannedparenthood.org; 26 Bleecker St, btwn Mott & Elizabeth Sts, NoHo; h8am-6:30pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, to 8:30pm Wed, to 4:30pm Sat; bB/D/F/V to Broadway-Lafayette St; 6 to Bleecker St) Provides birth control, STD screenings and gynecological care.

Tourist Information

NYC Information Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %212-484-1222; www.nycgo.com; Broadway Plaza, btwn W 43rd & 44th Sts; h9am-6pm Dec-Apr, 8am-8pm May-Nov; bN/Q/R/W, S, 1/2/3, 7, A/C/E to Times Sq-42nd St) There are official NYC Visitor Information Centers throughout the city. The main office is in Midtown.

In this web-based world you’ll find infinite online resources to get up-to-the-minute information about New York. In person, try one of the official branches of NYC & Company (www.nycgo.com) at Times Square, Macy’s Herald Square ( GOOGLE MAP ; %212-484-1222; www.nycgo.com; Macy's, 151 W 34th St, at Broadway; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat, to 9pm Sun; bB/D/F/M, N/Q/R/W to 34th St-Herald Sq), City Hall ( GOOGLE MAP ; %212-484-1222; www.nycgo.com; City Hall Park, at Broadway; h9am-6pm Mon-Sun; b4/5/6 to Brooklyn Bridge-City Hall; R/W to City Hall; J/Z to Chambers St) and South Street Seaport.

AExplore Brooklyn (www.explorebk.com) has up-to-date event listings and lots of of other info on this much-loved borough.

8Getting There & Away

With its three bustling airports, two main train stations and a monolithic bus terminal, New York City rolls out the welcome mat for millions of visitors who come to take a bite out of the Big Apple each year.

Direct flights are possible from most major American and international cities. Figure six hours from Los Angeles, seven hours from London and Amsterdam, and 14 hours from Tokyo. Consider getting here by train instead of car or plane to enjoy a mix of bucolic and urban scenery en route, without unnecessary traffic hassles, security checks and excess carbon emissions.

Flights, tours and rail tickets can be booked online at www.lonelyplanet.com/bookings.

Air

John F Kennedy International Airport

John F Kennedy International Airport (JFK; GOOGLE MAP ; %718-244-4444; www.kennedyairport.com; bA to Howard Beach or E, J/Z to Sutphin Blvd-Archer Ave then Airtrain to JFK), 15 miles from Midtown in southeastern Queens, has six working terminals, serves nearly 50 million passengers annually and hosts flights coming and going from all corners of the globe. You can use the AirTrain (free within the airport) to move from one terminal to the another.

The timeline is uncertain, but a massive $10 billion overhaul of the airport was recently approved. Architectural and structural changes are the focus, but plans also call for a substantial upgrade of amenities and transportation alternatives.

LaGuardia

Used mainly for domestic flights, LaGuardia (LGA; GOOGLE MAP ; %718-533-3400; www.panynj.gov; gM60, Q70) is smaller than JFK but only 8 miles from midtown Manhattan; it sees nearly 30 million passengers per year.

Much maligned by politicians and ordinary travelers alike, the airport is set to receive a much-needed $4 billion overhaul of its terminal facilities. Scheduled in phases, from 2018 to 2021, plans call for a single, unified terminal to replace the four existing stand-alone ones, as well as an upgrade in amenities and transportation alternatives.

Newark Liberty International Airport

Don’t write off New Jersey when looking for airfares to New York. About the same distance from Midtown as JFK (16 miles), Newark (EWR; GOOGLE MAP ; %973-961-6000; www.panynj.gov) brings many New Yorkers out for flights (there’s some 40 million passengers annually). It's a hub for United Airlines and offers the only non-stop flight to Havana, Cuba, in the New York City area. A $2.4 billion dollar redevelopment of Terminal A is scheduled to be completed in 2022.

Bus

For long-distance bus trips, you’ll arrive and depart from the world’s busiest bus station, the Port Authority Bus Terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; %212-502-2200; www.panynj.gov; 625 Eighth Ave, at W 42nd St; bA/C/E to 42nd St-Port Authority Bust Terminal), which sees more than 65 million passengers each year. Efforts to replace the aging and less than salubrious station are always on the agenda. Bus companies leaving from here include the following:

AGreyhound (www.greyhound.com) Connects New York with major cities across the country.

APeter Pan Trailways (www.peterpanbus.com) Daily express services to Boston, Washington, DC, and Philadelphia.

AShort Line Bus (www.shortlinebus.com) Serves northern New Jersey and upstate New York, focusing on college towns such as Ithaca and New Paltz; part of Coach USA.

ATrailways (www.trailwaysny.com) Bus service to upstate New York, including Albany, Ithaca and Syracuse, as well as Montreal, Canada.

A number of budget bus lines operate from locations on the west side of Midtown:

BoltBus ( GOOGLE MAP ; %877-265-8287; www.boltbus.com; W 33rd St, btwn Eleventh & Twelfth Aves; W) Services from New York to Philadelphia, Boston, Baltimore and Washington, DC. The earlier you purchase tickets, the better the deal. Notable for its free wi-fi, which occasionally actually works.

Megabus ( GOOGLE MAP ; https://us.megabus.com; 34th St, btwn 11th & 12th Aves; W; b7 to 34th St-Hudson Yards) Travels from New York to Boston, Washington, DC, and Toronto, among other destinations. Free (sometimes functioning) wi-fi. Departures leave from 34th St near the Jacob K Javits Convention Center and arrivals ( GOOGLE MAP ; 7th Ave & 27th St) come to 27th and 7th.

Vamoose ( GOOGLE MAP ; %212-695-6766; www.vamoosebus.com; cnr Seventh Ave & 30th St; from $30; b1 to 28th St, A/C/E, 1/2/3 to 34th St-Penn Station) Buses head to Arlington, Virginia and Bethesda, Maryland, both not far outside Washington, DC.

Boat

ASeastreak (www.seastreak.com) has daily commuter services between Atlantic Highlands and Highlands, New Jersey and Pier 11 near Wall St and E 35th St; there's also summer services to Sandy Hook (return $46) in New Jersey. Martha's Vineyard (one-way/round-trip $165/240, five hours) in Massachusetts is accessible on summer weekends from E 35th St.

Cruise ships dock at the Manhattan Cruise Terminal in Hell's Kitchen on the west side of Manhattan at several piers from W 46th to 54th Sts.

If you’re arriving in NYC by yacht, there are ports at an exclusive boat slip at the World Financial Center, and at a long-term slip at the 79th St Boathouse on the Upper West Side.

Train

Penn Station ( GOOGLE MAP ; W 33rd St, btwn Seventh & Eighth Aves; b1/2/3, A/C/E to 34th St-Penn Station) The oft-maligned departure point for all Amtrak (www.amtrak.com) trains, including the Acela Express services to Princeton, NJ, and Washington, DC (note that this express service costs twice as much as a normal fare). All fares vary, based on the day of the week and the time you want to travel. There’s no baggage-storage facility at Penn Station. Derailments and maintenance issues plagued Amtrak lines out of Penn Station in the spring of 2017; repairs mean compromised service, with no certainty of when the issues will be resolved.

ALong Island Rail Road (www.mta.info/lirr) The Long Island Rail Road serves more than 300,000 commuters each day, with services from Penn Station to points in Brooklyn and Queens, and on Long Island. Prices are broken down by zones. A peak-hour ride from Penn Station to Jamaica Station (en route to JFK via AirTrain) costs $10.25 if you buy it at the station (or a whopping $16 onboard!).

ANJ Transit (www.njtransit.com) Also operates trains from Penn Station, with services to the suburbs and the Jersey Shore.

ANew Jersey PATH (www.panynj.gov/path) An option for getting into NJ’s northern points, such as Hoboken and Newark. Trains ($2.75) run from Penn Station along the length of Sixth Ave, with stops at 33rd, 23rd, 14th, 9th and Christopher Sts, as well as at the reopened World Trade Center site.

AMetro-North Railroad (www.mta.info/mnr) The last line departing from the magnificent Grand Central Terminal, the Metro-North Railroad serves Connecticut, Westchester County and the Hudson Valley.

8Getting Around

Check the Metropolitan Transportation Authority website (www.mta.info) for public transportation information (buses and subway). Delays have increased as ridership has expanded.

Subway Inexpensive, somewhat efficient and operates around the clock, though can be confusing. Single ride is $2.75 with a MetroCard.

Buses Convenient during off hours – especially when transferring between the city’s eastern and western sides. Uses the MetroCard; same price as the subway.

Taxi Meters start at $2.50 and increase roughly $5 for every 20 blocks. See www.nyc.gov/taxi.

Bicycle The city's popular bike share Citi Bike provides excellent access to most parts of Manhattan.

Inter-borough ferries The New York City Ferry (www.ferry.nyc) provides handy transport between waterside stops in Manhattan, Brooklyn and Queens.

To/From the Airport

John F Kennedy International Airport

ATaxi A yellow taxi from Manhattan to the airport will use the meter; prices (often about $60) depend on traffic – it can take 45 to 60 minutes. From JFK, taxis charge a flat rate of $52 to any destination in Manhattan (not including tolls or tip); it can take 45 to 60 minutes for most destinations in Manhattan. To/from a destination in Brooklyn, the metered fare should be about $45 (Coney Island) to $62 (downtown Brooklyn). Note that the Williamsburg, Manhattan, Brooklyn and Queensboro–59th St Bridges have no toll either way, while the Queens–Midtown Tunnel and the Hugh L Carey Tunnel (aka the Brooklyn–Battery Tunnel) cost $8.50 going into Manhattan. Fares for ride hailing apps like Lyft and Uber change depending on the time of day.

AVans & car service Shared vans, like those offered by Super Shuttle Manhattan (www. supershuttle.com), cost around $20 to $26 per person, depending on the destination. If traveling to the airport from NYC, car services have set fares from $45.

AExpress bus The NYC Airporter (www.nycair porter.com) runs to Grand Central Station, Penn Station or the Port Authority Bus Terminal from JFK. The one-way fare is $18.

ASubway The subway is the cheapest but slowest way of reaching Manhattan. From the airport, hop on the AirTrain ($5, payable as you exit) to Sutphin Blvd-Archer Ave (Jamaica Station) to reach the E, J or Z line (or the Long Island Rail Road). To take the A line instead, ride the AirTrain to Howard Beach station. The E train to Midtown has the fewest stops and takes a little over an hour.

ALong Island Rail Road (LIRR) This is by far the most relaxing way to arrive in the city. From the airport, take the AirTrain ($5, as you exit) to Jamaica Station. From there, LIRR trains go frequently to Penn Station in Manhattan or to Atlantic Terminal in Brooklyn (near Fort Greene, Boerum Hill and the Barclay Center). It’s about a 20-minute journey from station to station. One-way fares to either Penn Station or Atlantic Terminal cost $10.25 ($7.50 at off-peak times).

LaGuardia

ATaxi A taxi to/from Manhattan costs about $42 for the approximately half-hour ride; it’s metered with no set fare. Fares for ride-hailing apps like Lyft and Uber vary.

ACar service A car service to LaGuardia costs around $35.

AExpress bus The NYC Airporter (www.nycair porter.com) costs $15 and goes to/from Grand Central, Penn Station and the Port Authority Bus Terminal.

ASubway & bus It’s less convenient to get to LaGuardia by public transportation than the other airports. The best subway link is the 74 St-Broadway station (7 line, or the E, F, M and R lines at the connecting Jackson Heights- Roosevelt Ave station) in Queens, where you can pick up the Q70 Express Bus to the airport (about 10 minutes to the airport). Or you can catch the M60 bus from several subway stops in upper Manhattan and Harlem or the N/Q stop at Hoyt Ave-32st St.

Newark Liberty International Airport

ACar service A car service runs about $50 to $70 for the 45-minute ride from Midtown – a taxi is roughly the same. You’ll have to pay a whopping $15 to get into NYC through the Lincoln (at 42nd St) and Holland (at Canal St) Tunnels and, further north, the George Washington Bridge, though there’s no charge going back through to New Jersey. There are a couple of cheap tolls on New Jersey highways too, unless you ask your driver to take Hwy 1 or 9.

ASubway/train NJ Transit (www.njtransit. com) runs a rail service (with a $5.50 AirTrain connection) between Newark airport (EWR) and New York’s Penn Station for $13 each way. The trip takes 25 minutes and runs every 20 or 30 minutes from 4:20am to about 1:40am. Hold onto your ticket, which you must show upon exiting at the airport.

AExpress bus The Newark Liberty Airport Express (www.newarkairportexpress.com) has a bus service between the airport and Port Authority Bus Terminal, Bryant Park and Grand Central Terminal in Midtown ($16 one way). The 45-minute ride goes every 15 minutes from 6:45am to 11:15pm and every half-hour from 4:45am to 6:45am and 11:15pm to 1:15am.

Bicycle

Hundreds of miles of designated bike lanes have been added over the past decade. Add to this the excellent bike-sharing network Citi Bike (www.citibikenyc.com), and you have the makings for a surprisingly bike-friendly city. Hundreds of Citi Bike kiosks in Manhattan and parts of Brooklyn house the iconic bright blue and very sturdy bicycles, which have reasonable rates for short-term users. Nearly 14 million City Bike 'trips' were taken in 2016 and there are there are an estimated 12,000 bikes in the system.

To use a Citi Bike, purchase a 24-hour or three-day access pass (around $12 or $24 including tax) at any Citi Bike kiosk. You will then be given a five-digit code to unlock a bike. Return the bike to any station within 30 minutes to avoid incurring extra fees. Reinsert your credit card (you won’t be charged) and follow the prompts to check out a bike again. You can make an unlimited number of 30-minute check-outs during those 24 hours or three days.

Helmets aren't required by law, but strongly recommended. You'll need to bring your own. City parks like Central Park, the Brooklyn Waterfront Greenway and Prospect Park in Brooklyn are good places to test out your comfort level on wheels in less stressful environments than the chaotic city streets. And most importantly, for your safety and that of others, obey traffic laws.

You’ll find routes and bike lanes for every borough on NYC Bike Maps (www.nycbikemaps.com). For downloadable maps and point-to-point route generator, visit NYC DOT (www.nyc.gov/html/dot/html/bicyclists/bikemaps.shtml). Free bike maps are also available at most bike shops.

Public Transportation

Tickets and Passes

The yellow-and-blue MetroCards (www.mta.info/metrocard) are the swipe cards used for all of NYC’s public transportation. You can purchase or add value at one of several easy-to-use automated machines at any station. Each ride on the subway or bus (except for express buses) deducts $2.75 from the card.

Purchase the MetroCard itself for $1 at kiosks in subway stations, and load it with credit ($20, which will give you eight rides and change, is a good start). If you plan to ride a lot, buy a 7-day Unlimited Pass ($32). These cards are handy for travelers – particularly if you’re jumping around town to a few different places in one day.

The subway kiosks take credit or ATM cards (larger machines also take cash). When you need to add more credit, just insert your card and follow the prompts (tip: when it asks for your ZIP, input ‘99999’ if you’re not from the USA).

Transfers from subway to bus, or bus to subway, are free. Just swipe/insert your card, and no extra charge will be deducted.

New York State

For most, any trip to the Empire State starts or finishes in its iconic metropolis: New York City. However, if you were to confine your travels only to its five boroughs and a little beyond, you'd be missing out big time.

Upstate New York – anywhere outside NYC – is a dream destination for those who cherish the great outdoors as much as a bar crawl around the Lower East Side. The grand Hudson River heads straight north from NYC, like an escape route. From Albany, the 524-mile Erie Canal cuts due west to Lake Erie, by spectacular Niagara Falls and Buffalo, a fascinating, rust-belt city that's on the rebound.

The St Lawrence River forms the border with Canada in the beautiful Thousand Islands area. Sample fine wines in the Finger Lakes region, hike in the magnificent Adirondack and Catskills mountains, or simply kick back on the sandy beaches of Long Island.

8Resources

A511 NY (www.511ny.org) Statewide traffic and transit info.

AI Love NY (www.iloveny.com) Comprehensive state tourism bureau, with the iconic heart logo.

ADVEIGHT (www.dveightmag.com) Online and print magazine focusing on upstate experiences for stylish urbanites.

ANew York State Office of Parks, Recreation and Historic Preservation (https://parks.ny.gov) Camping, lodging and general info on all state parks.

AAnd North (http://andnorth.com) Curated online guide to upstate New York.

AEscape Brooklyn (http://escapebrooklyn.com) Respected blog by clued-up Brooklynites on upstate getaways.

ALonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/usa/new-york-state) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveler forum and more.

Long Island

Technically, the 118 miles of Long Island includes the boroughs of Brooklyn and Queens on the west edge, but in the popular imagination, 'Long Island' begins only where the city ends, in a mass of traffic-clogged expressways and suburbs that every teenager aspires to leave. (Levittown, the first planned 1950s subdivision, is in central Nassau County.) But there's plenty more out on 'Lawn-guy-land' (per the local accent). Push past the central belt of 'burbs to windswept dunes, glitzy summer resorts, fresh farms and wineries, and whaling and fishing ports established in the 17th century. Then you'll see why loyalists prefer the nickname 'Strong Island.'

8Getting There & Around

Thanks to Long Island Rail Road (LIRR; www.mta.info/lirr), which runs three lines from NYC's Penn Station to the farthest east ends of the island, it's possible to visit without a car. Additionally, the Hampton Jitney (www.hamptonjitney.com) and Hampton Luxury Liner (www.hamptonluxuryliner.com) buses connect Manhattan to various Hamptons villages and Montauk; the former also picks up in Brooklyn, and runs to the North Fork. With a car, however, it is easier to visit several spots on the island in one go. I-495, aka the Long Island Expwy (LIE), runs down the middle of the island – but avoid rush hour, when it's commuter hell.

South Shore

Easily accessible by public transit, South Shore beaches can get crowded, but they're a fun day out. Not nearly as much of a schlep as the Hamptons, and far more egalitarian, the beach towns along these barrier islands each have their own vibe and audience – you can get lost in the crowds or go solo on the dunes. Long Beach is just over the border from Queens, and its main town strip is busy with ice-cream shops, bars and eateries.

1Sights

Fire Island National SeashoreISLAND

( GOOGLE MAP ; %631-687-4750; www.nps.gov/fiis)F

Federally protected, this island offers sand dunes, forests, clean beaches, camping (dune-camping permits $20), hiking trails, inns, restaurants, 15 hamlets and two villages. Its scenery range from car-free areas of summer mansions and packed nightclubs to stretches of sand where you’ll find nothing but pitched tents and deer.

Most of the island is accessible only by ferry ( GOOGLE MAP ; %631-665-3600; www.fireislandferries.com; 99 Maple Ave, Bay Shore; one-way adult/child $10/5, 1am ferry $19) and is free of cars – regulars haul their belongings on little wagons instead. You can drive to either end of the island (the lighthouse or the Wilderness Visitor Center) but there is no road in between. The island is edged with a dozen or so tiny hamlets, mostly residential. Party-center Ocean Beach Village and quieter Ocean Bay Park (take ferries from the Bayshore LIRR stop) have a few hotels; Cherry Grove and the Pines (ferries from Sayville) are gay enclaves, also with hotels.

Robert Moses State ParkSTATE PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %631-669-0449; www.parks.ny.gov; 600 Robert Moses State Pkwy, Babylon, Fire Island; per car $10, lounge chairs $10, golf $11; hdawn-dusk)

Robert Moses State Park, one small part of Fire Island accessible by car, lies at the westernmost end and features wide, soft-sand beaches with mellower crowds than those at Jones Beach. It’s also adjacent to the Fire Island Lighthouse (Fire Island National Seashore; GOOGLE MAP ; %631-661-4876; www.nps.gov/fiis; Robert Moses Causeway; adult/child $7/4; h9:30am-6pm Jul & Aug, 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun Sep-Jun), which you can walk to from here.

Sunken ForestFOREST

( GOOGLE MAP ; %631-597-6183; www.nps.gov/fiis; Fire Island; hvisitor center mid-May–mid-Oct)F

This 300-year-old forest, a surprisingly dense stretch of trees behind the dunes, is easily accessible via a 1.5-mile boardwalk trail looping through. It's pleasantly shady in summer, and vividly colored when the leaves change in fall. It's accessible by its own ferry stop (Sailors Haven, where there's also a visitor center), or a long walk in the winter season, after the ferry shuts down. Ranger-guided tours available.