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The Hamptons

This string of villages is a summer escape for Manhattan's wealthiest, who zip to mansions by helicopter. Mere mortals take the Hampton Jitney bus and chip in on rowdy rental houses. Behind the glitz is a long cultural history, as noted artists and writers have lived here. Beneath the glamour, the gritty and life-risking tradition of fishing continues. The area is small, connected by often traffic-clogged Montauk Hwy.

1Sights

East Hampton

East Hampton Town Marine MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.easthamptonhistory.org; 301 Bluff Rd, Amangansett; $4; h10am-5pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun Apr-Oct)

One of your last outposts before you drive on to Montauk, this small museum dedicated to the fishing and whaling industries is as interesting as its counterpart in Sag Harbor, full of old harpoons, boats half the size of their prey, and a beautiful black-and-white photographic tribute to the local fishers and their families.

Osborn-Jackson HouseMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %631-324-6850; www.easthamptonhistory.org; 101 Main St; donation $4; h10am-4pm Tue-Sat)

Check out East Hampton's colonial past with a visit to the East Hampton Historical Society. The Society tends to five historical attractions around East Hampton, including several old colonial farms, mansions and a marine museum.

Pollock-Krasner HouseARTS CENTER

( GOOGLE MAP ; %631-324-4929; www.stonybrook.edu/pkhouse; 830 Springs Fireplace Rd; general admission $5, guided tours $10; h1-5pm Thu-Sat May-Oct)

Tour the home of husband-and-wife art stars Jackson Pollock and Lee Krasner – worth it just to see the paint-spattered floor of Pollock's studio. Reservations required for guided tour at noon.

Sag Harbour

Sag Harbor Whaling & Historical MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %631-725-0770; www.sagharborwhalingmuseum.org; 200 Main St; adult/child $6/2; h10am-5pm Apr-Nov)

The cool collection here includes actual artifacts from 19th-century whaling ships: sharp flensing knives, battered pots for rendering blubber, delicate scrimshaw and more. It's a bit surreal to see photos of the giant mammals in a village that's now a cute resort town.

Southampton

Parrish Art MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %631-283-2118; www.parrishart.org; 279 Montauk Hwy, Water Mill; adult/child $10/free, Wed free; h10am-5pm Mon, Wed, Thu, Sat & Sun, to 8pm Fri)

In a sleek long barn designed by Herzog & de Meuron, this institution spotlights local artists such as Jackson Pollock, Willem de Kooning and Chuck Close.

For more Pollock, make reservations to see his nearby paint-drizzled studio and home.

Southampton Historical MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %631-283-2494; www.southamptonhistoricalmuseum.org; 17 Meeting House Lane; adult/child $4/free; h11am-4pm Wed-Sat Mar-Dec)

Before the Hamptons was the Hamptons, there was this clutch of buildings, now nicely maintained, and spread around Southampton. The main museum is Rogers Mansion, once owned by a whaling captain. Also visit a former dry-goods store, now occupied by a local jeweler, around the corner on Main St; and a 17th-century homestead, the Halsey House (Saturday only July to October).

St Andrew's Dune ChurchCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.standrewsdunechurch.com; 12 Gin Lane; hservice 11am Sun Jun-Sep)

The triple spires of this 19th-century red wooden church glow beautifully in the afternoon light. You can come to Sunday service if so inclined, admiring the stained glass and quaint wooden pews, or simply enjoy a stroll along the placid waterway across the street from the curious iron pot donated by an early congregant. The building was the earliest life-saving station in New York, and is well worth the short drive or walk from downtown.

4Sleeping

1708 HouseINN$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %631-287-1708; www.1708house.com; 126 Main St; r from $250; aW)

History buffs might gravitate towards this local standout. It's in central Southampton and prides itself on its turn-of-the-century charm.

oTopping Rose HouseBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %631-537-0870; www.toppingrosehouse.com; 1 Bridgehampton-Sag Harbor Turnpike, Bridgehampton; r from $695; paWs)

In an 1842 home, this top-of-the-line modern boutique hotel boasts 22 guest rooms, including six suites decorated with local artists' work. A Manhattan gallery curates the rotating art collection (for sale, of course), and there's a spa and heated pool in addition to the 75-seat farm-to-table restaurant, some produce for which is sourced from the 1-acre garden adjoining the property.

5Eating

Candy KitchenDINER$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %631-537-9885; 2391 Montauk Hwy, Bridgehampton; mains $5-12; h7am-9pm; c)

An antidote to glitz, this corner diner has been serving good soups, homemade ice cream and other staples since 1925. Its policy is similarly old-school – cash only, please.

oFellingham'sPUB FOOD$$

(Restaurant Sports Bar; GOOGLE MAP ; %631-283-9417; www.fellinghamsrestaurant.com; 17 Cameron St; burgers $11, mains $19-21; h11am-11pm)

Behind the bank, in an alley off Main St, you'll get a dash of local flavor at this favored sports bar, rich with historical photos and memorabilia, and boasting a hearty menu featuring a bacon-cheeseburger named for baseball legend Babe Ruth and a Sharapova burger with – naturally – Russian dressing. So much local flavor, this qualifies as the 'Cheers' of Southampton.

Mains are heavy on the steaks and chops.

oDockside Bar and GrillSEAFOOD$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %631-725-7100; www.docksidesagharbor.com; 26 Bay St; mains $26-32; h11:30am-10pm)

A local favorite inside the American Legion Hall (the original bar's still there), the seafood-heavy menu features a prize-winning, stick-to-the-spoon chowder and luscious lobster spring rolls, among other mouth-watering delights. The outdoor patio can be nice in the summer.

8Getting There & Away

Driving the Montauk Hwy (Rte 27) to and from New York involves careful planning to avoid major congestion, and it's often at a standstill within the Hamptons itself on busy weekends. Better to take the ever-popular Hampton Jitney out here from Manhattan or Brooklyn – it serves the entire Hamptons with frequent comfortable buses. The LIRR is a second but often more time-consuming option.

8Getting Around

The app-driven, cool turquoise converted school buses offered by Hampton Hopper (www.hamptonhopper.com) are an economical, hassle-free way around the towns and run into the bar hours.

Montauk

Towards the east-pointing tip of Long Island's South Fork, you'll find the mellow town of Montauk, aka 'The End,' and the famous surfing beach Ditch Plains. With the surfers have come affluent hipsters and boho-chic hotels, but the area is still far less of a scene than the Hamptons, with proudly blue-collar residents and casual seafood restaurants.

Route 27, the Montauk Hwy, divides east of Napeague State Park, with the Montauk Hwy continuing down the center of the peninsula while Old Montauk Hwy hugs the water. The roads converge at the edge of central Montauk and Fort Pond, a small lake. Two miles east is a large inlet called Lake Montauk, with marinas strung along its shore.

1Sights

Lost at Sea MemorialMEMORIAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; 2000 Montauk Hwy, Montauk Lighthouse; Montauk State Park parking fee $8; h10:30am-5:30pm Sun-Fri, to 7pm Sat mid-Jun–Aug, reduced hours mid-Apr–mid-Jun & Sep-Nov)

Visitors to the Montauk Lighthouse may not immediately notice a smaller 15ft structure at the far east end of the park, where the 60ft cliffs fall off into the sea, but for local fishers it’s a daily reminder of their struggle against the power of the sea. The 8ft, 2600lb bronze statue set on a 7ft slab of granite is inscribed with the names of local fishers lost to the waves, from the colonial days of New York to the present.

Montauk Point State ParkSTATE PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %631-668-3781; www.parks.ny.gov; 2000 Montauk Hwy/Rte 27; per car $8; hdawn-dusk)

Covering the eastern tip of the South Fork is Montauk Point State Park, with its impressive lighthouse ( GOOGLE MAP ; %631-668-2544; www.montauklighthouse.com; 2000 Montauk Hwy; adult/child $11/4; h10:30am-5:30pm Sun-Fri, to 7pm Sat mid-Jun–Aug, reduced hours mid-Apr–mid-Jun & Sep-Nov). A good place for windswept walks, surfing, surf fishing (with permit), and seal-spotting – call the park for the schedule; rangers will set up spotting scopes to better view the frisky pinnipeds.

4Sleeping

Hither Hills State ParkCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %631-668-2554; www.parks.ny.gov; 164 Old Montauk Hwy; campsites New York State residents/nonresidents $35/70, reservation fee $9)

These wooded dunes form a natural barrier between Montauk and the Hamptons. The 189-site campground caters for tents and RVs, and there are spots for fishing (with a permit) and hiking through the dunes; online reservations are a must.

oSunrise GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %631-668-7286; www.sunrisebnb.com; 681 Old Montauk Hwy; r/ste $395/495; paW)

A tasteful yet homey four-room B&B a mile from town, and just across the road from the beach. The breakfast is ample and delicious, served in a comfy dining area with a million-dollar view.

Save 15% booking direct online. Low-season rates (room/suite $130/195) are a significant saving.

Surf LodgeMOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %631-483-5037; www.thesurflodge.com; 183 Edgemere St; r $250-300; aW)

Set on Fort Pond a half-mile north of the beach, this hipster haven has been at the forefront of Montauk's transformation. It has a casual-chic design scheme with private decks and cooking stoves, and Frette bedding.

5Eating & Drinking

Lobster RollSEAFOOD$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %631-267-3740; www.lobsterroll.com; 1980 Montauk Hwy, Amagansett; mains $14-28; h11:30am-9:30pm Jun-Sep, 11:30am-4:30pm Mon, to 8pm Fri-Sun May)

'Lunch' is the sign to look for on the roadside west of Montauk, marking this clam-and-lobster shack that has been in operation since 1965. Now infamous as the liaison site in the Showtime television series The Affair.

oClam Bar at NapeagueSEAFOOD$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %631-267-6348; www.clambarhamptons.com; 2025 Montauk Hwy, Amagansett; $15-30; h11:30am-6pm Apr-Oct, 11:30am-6pm Sat & Sun Nov & Dec)

You won't get fresher seafood or a saltier waitstaff, and holy mackerel, those lobster rolls are good, even if you choke a bit on the price. Three decades in business – the public has spoken – with cash only, of course. Locals favor this one. Find it on the road between Amagansett and Montauk.

Montauk Brewing CompanyMICROBREWERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %631-668-8471; www.montaukbrewingco.com; 62 S Erie Ave; h2-7pm Mon-Fri, noon-7pm Sat & Sun)

'Come as you are,' preaches the small tasting room, and Cobain's family hasn't asked for their lyric back yet. There's a more-than-palatable rotating range of cervezas, from lagers to stouts, and an outdoor patio to enjoy them in the right weather. Take a mixed six-pack to go.

MontauketBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %631-668-5992; 88 Firestone Rd; hnoon-10pm)

Experts agree: this is the best place to watch the sun go down on Long Island. An unassuming slate-blue-shingled building, full of local flavor (and local people).

8Getting There & Away

Montauk is the last stop on the eastbound Jitney bus (www.hamptonjitney.com; $28) as well as the Long Island Railroad. The Suffolk County bus 10C runs out here from East Hampton – connect with the 94 to cover the rest of the distance to the lighthouse.

North Fork & Shelter Island

The North Fork of Long Island is known for its bucolic farmland and vineyards (though weekends can draw rowdy limo-loads on winery crawls). Rte 25, the main road through the towns of Jamesport, Cutchogue and Southold, is pretty and edged with farm stands.

The largest town on the North Fork is Greenport, a laid-back place with working fishing boats, a history in whaling, and an old carousel in its Harbor Front Park. It's compact and easily walkable from the LIRR station.

Like a little pearl in Long Island's claw, Shelter Island rests between the North and South Forks. The island is a smaller, lower-key version of the Hamptons, with a touch of maritime New England. Parking is limited; long Crescent Beach, for instance, has spots only by permit. If you don't mind a few hills, it's a nice place to visit by bike.

1Sights

Mashomack Nature PreserveNATURE RESERVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %631-749-1001; www.shelter-island.org/mashomack.html; Rte 114, Shelter Island; donation adult/child $3/2; h9am-5pm Mar-Sep, to 4pm Oct-Feb)

The 2000 acres of this Shelter Island reserve, shot through with creeks and marshes, are great for kayaking, birding and hiking (no cycling allowed). Take precautions against ticks, an ever-present problem on the island.

Orient Beach State ParkBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP ; %631-323-2440; www.parks.ny.gov; 40000 Main Rd, Orient; per car $10, kayaks per hour $25; h8am-dusk, swimming only Jul-Aug)

A sandy slip of land at the end of the North Fork where you can swim in the calm ocean water (July and August) or rent kayaks to paddle in the small bay. True believers can view four different lighthouses, including the Orient Point Lighthouse, known to sailors as 'the coffee pot' for its stout bearing.

Horton Point LighthouseLIGHTHOUSE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %631-765-5500; www.southoldhistoricalsociety.org/lighthouse; 3575 Lighthouse Rd, Southold; $5; h11:30am-4pm Sat & Sun Jun-Sep)

Perhaps a poorer sister to the famous Montauk lighthouse, Horton Point was also commissioned by President Washington, but finally built sixty years later by William Sinclair, a Scotsman, who was an engineer in Brooklyn's Navy Yard. There's a nice nature trail in the adjacent park that leads to two Long Island Sound overlooks and steps to the beach.

4Sleeping & Eating

Greenporter HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %631-477-0066; www.greenporterhotel.com; 326 Front St, Greenport; r from $309; aWs)

An older motel redone with white walls and Ikea furniture, this place is good value for the area. Its on-site restaurant, Cuvée, is very good.

Rates drop in spring and fall by as much as 30%.

Love Lane KitchenMODERN AMERICAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %631-298-8989; www.lovelanekitchen.com; 240 Love Lane, Mattituck; mains lunch $13-16, dinner $16-32; h7am-4pm Tue & Wed, 8am-9:30pm Thu-Mon)

At this popular place on a cute street, local meat and vegetables drive the global-diner menu: burgers, of course, plus spicy chickpeas and duck tagine.

North Fork Table & InnAMERICAN$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %631-765-0177; www.nofoti.com; 57225 Main Rd, Southold; 3-course set menu $70; h5:30-8pm Mon, Thu & Sun, to 10pm Fri & Sat)

A favorite foodies' escape, this four-room inn (rooms from $250) has an excellent farm-to-table restaurant, run by alums of the esteemed Manhattan restaurant Gramercy Tavern. Dinner is served Thursday to Monday, but if you're hankering for a gourmand-to-go lunch ($11 to $15), the inn's food truck is parked outside on those days from 11:30am to 3:30pm.

8Getting There & Away

The Hampton Jitney bus picks up passengers on Manhattan's East Side on 96th, 83rd, 77th, 69th, 59th and 40th Sts. It makes stops in 10 North Fork villages.

If you're driving, take the Midtown Tunnel out of Manhattan, which will take you onto I-495/Long Island Expwy. Take this until it ends at Riverhead and follow signs onto Rte 25. You can stay on Rte 25 for all points east, but note that the North Rd (Rte 48) is faster as it does not go through the town centers.

The Long Island Rail Road’s line is the Ronkonkoma Branch, with trips leaving from Penn Station and Brooklyn and running all the way out to Greenport.

To get from the North Fork to the South Fork (or vice versa), take the North Ferry ($11, www.northferry.com) and the South Ferry ($15, www.southferry.com) services, crossing Shelter Island in between. There is no direct ferry – you must take one and then the other.

Hudson Valley

Winding roads along either side of the Hudson River take you by picturesque farms, Victorian cottages, apple orchards and old-money mansions built by New York’s elite. Painters of the Hudson River School romanticized these landscapes, and autumn is a particularly beautiful time for a trip up this way.

The eastern side of the river is more populated thanks to the commuter train line between NYC and Albany. Several magnificent homes can be found near Tarrytown and Sleepy Hollow. The formerly industrial town of Beacon has been revived as an outpost of contemporary art, while historic Hudson attracts a wealthier set of weekenders with its restored Opera House, small galleries and antique shops.

In a car you can cross to the Hudson's west bank to explore several state parks, West Point military academy, and New Paltz with its access to superb rock climbing in the Minnewaska State Park Preserve and Mohonk Preserve.

8Getting There & Away

Metro-North Railroad (www.mta.info/mnr) runs as far north as Poughkeepsie from NYC's Grand Central; New Jersey Transit (www.njtransit.com) runs another line through New Jersey that gives access to Harriman. Amtrak (www.amtrak.com) also stops in Rhinecliff (for Rhinebeck), Poughkeepsie and Hudson. For New Paltz, you'll need the bus.

Lower Hudson Valley

Made famous by 19th-century author Washington Irving as the location of his headless horseman tale, The Legend of Sleepy Hollow, Sleepy Hollow and its larger neighbor Tarrytown are the jumping-off points for a trio of historic estates, as well as the gourmet and farm-activity destination of Stone Barn Center for Food & Agriculture.

Since the opening of the outstanding contemporary art museum Dia: Beacon in 2003, this blue-collar town beside the Hudson River has steadily evolved into a magnate for creatives, commuters and second-homers. It's backed by Mt Beacon, the tallest summit in the Hudson Valley and a rewarding hike. The town may be experiencing its moment of hipness, but it still proudly wears its working-class roots and is all the more attractive for it.

1Sights

oDia: BeaconGALLERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-440-0100; www.diaart.org; 3 Beekman St; adult/child $15/free; h11am-6pm Thu-Mon Apr-Oct, 11am-4pm Fri-Mon Nov-Mar)

The 300,000 sq ft of a former Nabisco box printing factory beside the Hudson River is now a storehouse for a series of stunning monumental works by the likes of Richard Serra, Dan Flavin, Louise Bourgeois and Gerhard Richter. The permanent collection is complemented by temporary shows of large-scale sculptures and installations, making this a must-see for contemporary art fans.

Boscobel House & GardensHISTORIC BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-265 3638; www.boscobel.org; 1601 Rte 9D, Garrison; house & gardens adult/child $17/8, gardens only $11/5; hguided tours 10am-4pm Wed-Mon Apr-Oct, to 3pm Nov & Dec)

The elegant backdrop for the summer season Hudson Valley Shakespeare Festival ( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-265-9575; www.hvshakespeare.org; 1601 Rte 9D, Garrison; tickets from $45; hmid-May–early Sep), Boscobel dates from 1808 and is considered to be one of the finest examples of Federal-style architecture in the state. Entry to the house, which is 8 miles south of Beacon, is by guided tour (50 minutes), which run regularly through the day.

Stone Barn Center for Food & AgricultureFARM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %914-366-6200; http://story.stonebarnscenter.org; 630 Bedford Rd, Pocantico Hills; adult/child $20/10; h10am-5pm Wed-Sun)

Tours of the celebrated farm and the chance to take part in activities such as egg collecting, lettuce planting and meeting the flock of sheep are sure to entertain kids and land-loving adults. There's a good shop and a small takeout cafe.

For a banquet meal book ahead for the gourmet Blue Hill at Stone Barn also located here.

SunnysideHISTORIC BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %914-591-8763, Mon-Fri 914-631-8200; www.hudsonvalley.org; 3 W Sunnyside Lane, Tarrytown; adult/child $12/6; htours 10:30am-3:30pm Wed-Sun May–mid-Nov)

Washington Irving, famous for tales such as The Legend of Sleepy Hollow, built this imaginative home, which he said had more nooks and crannies than a cocked hat. Tour guides in 19th-century costume tell good stories, and the wisteria Irving planted a century ago still climbs the walls.

The closest train station to Sunnyside is Irvington, one stop before Tarrytown.

4Sleeping & Eating

oRoundhouseBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-765-8369; www.roundhousebeacon.com; 2 E Main St; r from $189; pnaW)

Occupying a former blacksmiths and hat factory either side of the town's Fishkill Creek, Roundhouse is a model of Beacon's renaissance as a tourist destination. Elements of the buildings' industrial past blend seamlessly with contemporary comforts in the spacious rooms, which feature designer light bulbs, timber headboards and alpaca-wool blankets.

Two-Michelin-star-awarded chef Terrance Brennan heads up the hotel's excellent restaurant and lounge ( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-765-8369; www.roundhousebeacon.com; 2 E Main St; ramen $16-21, mains $26-36, tasting menus from $85; h3-9pm Mon & Tue, 11:30am-9pm Wed & Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat, 11am-8pm Sun; v) grounded by a philosophy of sustainable 'whole-farm cuisine': do not miss the amazing ramen served in the lounge.

Homespun FoodsCAFE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-831-5096; www.homespunfoods.com; 232 Main St; mains $5-10; h8am-5pm; v)

A low-key gourmet legend in these parts, Homespun offers fresh everything, including creative salads, sandwiches and a veggie meatloaf made from nuts and cheese.

oBlue Hill at Stone BarnsAMERICAN$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %914-366-9600; www.bluehillfarm.com; 630 Bedford Rd, Pocantico Hills; set menu $258; h5-10pm Wed-Sat, 1-7:30pm Sun)S

Go maximum locavore at chef Dan Barber's farm (it also supplies his Manhattan restaurant). Settle in for an eye-popping multicourse feast based on the day's harvest lasting at least three hours, where the service is as theatrical as the presentation. Be sure to book around two months in advance and note the dress code: jackets and ties preferred for gentlemen, shorts not permitted.

8Getting There & Away

Metro-North (www.mta.info/mnr) commuter trains connect NYC with Beacon (one-way offpeak/peak $23/28, 90 minutes).

Tarrytown Station ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.mta.info/mnr; 1 Depot Plaza, Tarrytown) has regular train connections with NYC ($17 to $20, 40 to 50 minutes). Irvington, one stop before Tarrytown, is the closest station to Sunnyside, while Philipse Manor, one stop after, is walkable to Philipsburg Manor.

For the most flexibility in getting around the area, hire a car.

New Paltz

The hippy vibe endures in New Paltz, a short drive from the west bank of the Hudson. You'll find a campus of the State University of New York here, and it's the gateway to Shawangunk Ridge (aka 'The Gunks'), excellent for hiking and some of the best rock climbing in the eastern US.

1Sights & Activities

Historic Huguenot StreetHISTORIC SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-255-1660; www.huguenotstreet.org; 86 Huguenot St; guided tours $15)

Step back in time on a stroll around this picturesque enclave of buildings remaining from a Huguenot settlement dating back to 1678.

The 10-acre National Historic Landmark District includes a visitor center (departure point for guided tours of the area), seven historic stone houses, a reconstructed 1717 Huguenot church and a burial ground.

Mohonk PreservePARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-255-0919; www.mohonkpreserve.org; 3197 Rte 55, Gardiner; day pass hikers/climbers & cyclists $15/20; h9am-5pm)

Some 8000 acres of land held in private trust, with trails and other services maintained with visitor fees. This is home to some of the best rock climbing on the East Coast.

Rock & SnowADVENTURE SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-255-1311; www.rockandsnow.com; 44 Main St; h9am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 8pm Fri & Sat, 8am-7pm Sun)

This long-running outfitters rents tents, and rock-climbing, ice-climbing and other equipment. It can also team you up with guides for climbing and other outdoor adventures in the 'Gunks.'

4Sleeping & Eating

New Paltz HostelHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-255-6676; www.newpaltzhostel.com; 145 Main St; dm/r from $30/70; aW)

Aligned with New Paltz's hippie vibe, this hostel in a big old house next to the bus station is popular with visiting rock climbers and hikers. Rooms have two bunk beds and a double bed with attached bathroom, and there's a good communal kitchen.

A full-time home to some students, it has a strict no drugs or alcohol policy.

oMohonk Mountain HouseRESORT$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %855-436-0832; www.mohonk.com; 1000 Mountain Rest Rd; r from $259; aiWs)

This giant faux 'Victorian castle' perches over a dark lake, offering guests all the luxuries, from lavish meals to golf to spa services, plus a full roster of outdoor excursions, including hiking and trail rides. Rates include all meals and most activities and you can choose from rooms in the main building, cottages or the luxury Grove Lodge.

HuckleberryAMERICAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-633-8443; www.huckleberrynewpaltz.com; 21 Church St; mains $12-20; hnoon-2am Mon-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat, 10am-2am Sun; W)

This cute sea-green painted house hidden off the main road offers an appealing menu of gourmet items, including wagyu burgers (with the option of gluten-free buns), fish tacos and stout mac 'n' cheese. There are also creative cocktails, craft beers and a lovely outdoor dining/drinking area in which to enjoy it all.

8Getting There & Away

Trailways ( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-776-7548; www.trailwaysny.com; 139 Main St) connect New Paltz with NYC ($21.75, 1½ hours) and Woodstock ($6.25, one hour).

Poughkeepsie

Six miles south of Hyde Park is the largest town in the Hudson Valley, Poughkeepsie (puh-kip-see). The city is home to the prestigious college Vassar, which was women-only until 1969, as well as an IBM office – once the 'Main Plant' where notable early computers were built.

The main attraction here is the chance to walk across the Hudson River on the world's longest pedestrian bridge, although Vassar's art gallery ( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-437-5237; www.fllac.vassar.edu; 124 Raymond Ave; h10am-5pm Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat, to 9pm Thu, 1-5pm Sun), housed in a building designed by César Pelli, is also worth a visit. While you're here, stop in for a taste of the local distilleries and brew pubs – full details can be found at Dutchess Tourism ( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-445-3131; www.dutchesstourism.com; 3 Neptune Rd; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri).

1Sights

Franklin D Roosevelt HomeHISTORIC BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-486-7770; www.nps.gov/hofr; 4097 Albany Post Rd; adult/child $18/free, museum only adult/child $9/free; h9am-5pm)

Rangers lead interesting hour-long tours around Springwood, the home of Franklin D Roosevelt (FDR) who won a record four presidential elections and led America from the Great Depression through WWII. Considering his family wealth, it's a modest abode, but can be unpleasantly crowded in summer. Intimate details have been preserved, including his desk – left as it was the day before he died – and the hand-pulled elevator he used to hoist his polio-stricken body to the 2nd floor.

The home is part of a 1520-acre estate, formerly a working farm, which also includes walking trails and the FDR Presidential Library and Museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-486-7770; www.fdrlibrary.org; 4079 Albany Post Rd; adult/child $18/free; h9am-6pm Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar), which details important achievements in FDR's presidency. Admission tickets last two days and include the Springwood tour and the presidential library.

Walkway Over the HudsonPARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-834-2867; www.walkway.org; 61 Parker Ave; h7am-sunset)

This is the main eastern entrance (with parking) to what was once a railroad bridge crossing the Hudson. It's now the world's longest pedestrian bridge – 1.28 miles – and a state park. The span provides breathtaking views along the river.

4Sleeping & Eating

oRoosevelt InnMOTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-229-2443; www.rooseveltinnofhydepark.com; 4360 Albany Post Rd; r $70-155; hMar-Dec; aW)

Family owned and run since 1971, this roadside motel offers a great deal, especially for its pine-paneled 'rustic' rooms. The upper-level deluxe rooms offer more space.

No breakfast is served, but there's a cafe on-site.

Eveready DinerAMERICAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-229-8100; www.theevereadydiner.com; 4184 Albany Post Rd/Rte 9; mains $10-13; h6am-midnight Sun-Thu, 24hr Fri & Sat)

It's difficult to resist turning off the highway to visit this giant sparkling chrome diner. There's been a diner here since the 1950s and even though this building is from 1995 it's a classic, with an authentic interior and extensive menu to match.

8Getting There & Away

Amtrak has services to/from NYC ($27, 1½ hours) and up the Hudson to Albany ($27, 65 minutes) and beyond from Poughkeepsie Station (800-872-7245; www.amtrak.com; 41 Main St). Bus services by Short Line (https://web.coachusa.com/shortline) to/from NYC ($22, 2½ hours) also stop at the train station.

Rhinebeck

Midway up the east side of the Hudson, Rhinebeck has a charming main street and an affluent air. The surrounding land has farms and wineries, as well as the holistic Omega Institute, and the super-liberal Bard College, 8 miles north, worth dropping by for its Frank Gehry–designed performing arts center.

1Sights

Staatsburg State Historic SiteHOUSE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-889-8851; https://parks.ny.gov/historic-sites/25/details.aspx; Old Post Rd, Staatsburg; adult/child $8/free; htours 11am-4pm Thu-Sun mid-Apr–Oct)F

Take a tour around this beaux-arts mansion, the home of Ogden Mills and his wife Ruth. It boasts 79 luxurious rooms filled with brocaded Flemish tapestries, gilded plasterwork, period paintings and Oriental art. Find it 6 miles south of Rhinebeck just off Rte 9.

The Mills family made their fortune by investing in banks, railroads and mines during the Gilded Age.

Old Rhinebeck AerodromeMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-752-3200; www.oldrhinebeck.org; 9 Norton Rd, Red Hook; Mon-Fri adult/child $12/8, airshows adult/child $25/12, flights $75; h10am-5pm May-Oct, airshows from 2pm Sat & Sun)

This museum, a short drive north of the center of Rhinebeck, has a collection of vintage planes and other related vehicles and artifacts that date back to 1900. On weekends you can watch an airshow or take a ride in an old biplane.

4Sleeping & Eating

oOlde Rhinebeck InnB&B$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-871-1745; www.rhinebeckinn.com; 340 Wurtemberg Rd; r $250-325; aW)

Built by German settlers between 1738 and 1745, this expertly restored oak-beamed inn oozes comfort and authenticity. It's run by a charming woman who has decorated the four cozy rooms beautifully.

Bread Alone Bakery & CafeBAKERY$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-876-3108; www.breadalone.com/rhinebeck; 45 E Market St; sandwiches $8-10; h7am-5pm; W)

Superior quality baked goods, sandwiches and salads are served up at this popular bakery and cafe. If you prefer it has a full-service dining room, but the menu is exactly the same in both sections.

3Entertainment

Fisher Center for the Performing ArtsARTS CENTER

( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-758-7900; www.fishercenter.bard.edu; Robbins Rd, Bard College, Annandale-on-Hudson; tours 10am-5pm Mon-Fri)

Architecture buffs will want to drop by to view this Frank Gehry–designed building, which looks like an alien spacecraft covered in stainless steel shingles has landed on Bard College's manicured lawns. It contains two theaters and studio spaces and hosts a program of musical concerts, dance performances and theatrical events.

8Getting There & Away

Amtrak runs trains to/from NYC ($29, 1¾ hours). Rhinecliff-Kingston Station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-872-7245; www.amtrak.com; 455 Rhinecliff Rd, Rhinecliff) is 3 miles west of the center of Rhinebeck.

Catskills

This beautiful mountainous region west of the Hudson Valley has been a popular getaway for New Yorkers since the 19th century. The romantic image of mossy gorges and rounded peaks, as popularized by Hudson Valley School painters, encouraged a preservation movement; in 1894 the state constitution was amended so that thousands of acres are 'forever kept as wild forest lands.'

In the early 20th century, the Catskills became synonymous with so-called 'borscht belt' hotels, summer escapes for middle-class NYC Jews. The vast majority of those hotels have closed, although orthodox Jewish communities still thrive in many towns – as does a back-to-the-land, hippie ethos on numerous small farms. In the fall, this is the closest place to NYC with really dramatic colors in the trees.

8Getting There & Around

There is some bus service, the most useful being Trailways (www.trailwaysny.com) from NYC to Woodstock and Phoenicia. However, if you really want to tour the area, having a car is essential.

Phoenecia

This quirky hamlet sitting astride Esopus Creek is an ideal base for exploring the heart of the Catskills. Outdoor activities are easily arranged and include hiking, cycling, floating down the creek on an inner tube or swimming in mountain pools in summer and skiing at nearby Belleayre Mountain ( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-254-5600; www.belleayre.com; 181 Galli Curci Rd, Highmount; 1-day lift pass weekday/weekend $54/66; h9am-4pm Dec-Mar) in winter. Fall is prime time to visit and also the best season for a jaunt in an open-air carriage on the Delaware & Ulster Railroad between nearby Arkville and Roxbury.

1Sights & Activities

Empire State Railway MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-688-7501; www.esrm.com; 70 Lower High St, Phoenicia; donations accepted; h11am-4pm Sat & Sun Jun-Oct)F

Maintained by enthusiasts since 1960 this small museum occupies an old railway station on the largely decommissioned Delaware & Ulster line.

Delaware & Ulster RailroadRAIL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-225-4132; www.durr.org; 43510 Rte 28, Arkville; adult/child $18/12; hSat & Sun Jul-Oct)

It takes around two hours to travel the 24 miles between Arkville and Roxbury in open-air carriages on this touristy rail journey; views are at their best during fall.

Consider booking for a meal ($75) aboard the Rip Van Winkle Flyer, a train made up of art-deco carriages.

Belleayre BeachSWIMMING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-254-5202; www.belleayre.com/summer/belleayre-beach; 33 Friendship Manor Rd, Pine Hill; per person/car $3/10; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat & Sun mid-Jun–Aug)

Near the base of Belleayre Mountain ski resort, this lake is a popular and refreshing swimming spot. Boats, kayaks and paddle boards can be rented, and there's also volleyball and basketball courts and a climbing wall.

4Sleeping & Eating

oGraham & CoMOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-688-7871; www.thegrahamandco.com; 80 Rte 214, Phoenicia; r $150-275; aWs)

There's a lot going for this hipster motel an easy walk from the center of town. Rooms are white-washed and minimalist with the cheapest ones in a 'bunkhouse' where bathrooms are shared. Other pluses include a comfy den with a fireplace, a provisions store, an outdoor pool in summer, a wigwam and lawn games!

Foxfire Mountain HouseBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.foxfiremountainhouse.com; 72 Andrew Lane, Mt Tremper; r $175-325; hrestaurant dinner Fri-Sun; pnaW)

Hidden away amid the forest, this chic hotel effortlessly channels Catskills cool in its 11 individually decorated rooms and one three-bedroom cottage. The cozy restaurant (offering dinner Friday to Sunday) and bar, open to nonguests, serves French-inspired cuisine such as steak au poivre and coq au cidre.

oPhoenicia DinerAMERICAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-688-9957; www.phoeniciadiner.com; 5681 Rte 28, Phoenicia; mains $9-12; h7am-5pm Thu-Mon; v)

New York hipsters and local families rub shoulders at this classic roadside diner. The appealing menu offers all-day breakfast, skillets, sandwiches and burgers – all farm-fresh and fabulous.

oPeekamooseAMERICAN$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-254-6500; www.peekamooserestaurant.com; 8373 Rte 28, Big Indian; mains $20-36; h4-10pm Thu-Mon)

One of the finest restaurant in the Catskills, this renovated farmhouse has been promoting local farm-to-table dining for more than a decade. The menu changes daily, although the braised beef short ribs are a permanent fixture.

8Getting There & Away

Trailways (www.trailwaysny.com) runs buses to Phoenicia from NYC ($33.25, three hours, seven daily).

Tannersville

The small town of Tannersville, which primarily services the nearby ski resort of Hunter Mountain, also offers access to the gorgeous Kaaterskill Falls. There are superb hikes and drives in the area, as well as rustically charming hotels in which to stay and enjoy the beautiful mountain scenery. Tannersville itself sports a main street lined with brightly painted shops and houses.

1Sights & Activities

Kaaterskill FallsWATERFALL

( GOOGLE MAP )

For the best view of New York State's highest falls – 260ft, compared to Niagara's 167ft – without a strenuous hike, head to the viewing platform ( GOOGLE MAP ; Laurel House Rd, Palenville). Popular paintings by the Hudson River Valley School of painters in the mid-1800s elevated this two-tier cascade to iconic status making it a major draw for hikers, artists and nature lovers.

Hunter MountainSKIING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %518-263-4223; www.huntermtn.com; 64 Klein Ave, Hunter; 1-day lift pass weekday/weekend $70/80; h9am-4pm Dec-Mar)

Spectacular views from the 56 trails (including some challenging black runs that are a minefield of moguls) draw crowds of snowhounds to Hunter; avoid weekends and holidays if you don't relish lines at the lifts. Snowmaking ensures that skiing continues through the season, whatever the weather.

Zipline New YorkADVENTURE SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %518-263-4388; www.ziplinenewyork.com; Hunter Mountain, Rte 23A; zip-line tours $89-129)

Throughout the year Hunter Mountain is also the location of this zip-line course that's not for the faint hearted. The longest of the six zip lines is 650ft and 60ft above the ground.

4Sleeping & Eating

oScribner's Catskill LodgeLODGE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %518-628-5130; www.scribnerslodge.com; 13 Scribner Hollow Rd; r from $110; pnaWs#)

Run by a super-cool staff, this 1960s motor lodge has been given a stylish contemporary makeover. Snow-white painted rooms, some of which feature gas-fired stoves, contrast with the warm tones of the long library lounge with pool table and comfy nooks.

Deer Mountain InnBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %518-589-6268; www.deermountaininn.com; 790 Rte 25; r/cottage from $250/700; hrestaurant 5-9pm Mon, Thu & Sun, to 10pm Fri & Sat; pnaW)

There are only six rooms and two cottages (sleeping up to nine guests) at this gorgeous arts-and-crafts-style property hidden within a vast mountainside estate. It's all been interior designed to the max.

Last Chance Cheese Antiques CafeAMERICAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %518-589-6424; www.lastchanceonline.com; 6009 Main St; mains $10-27; h11am-10pm Fri & Sat, to 8pm Sun)

A fixture on Main St since 1970, this is part roadhouse with live bands, part candy store and cheese shop, and part restaurant, serving hearty meals. Many of the antiques and whatnots that decorate the place are for sale, too.

8Getting There & Away

The drive along Rte 23A to and from Tannersville is one of the most scenic in the Catskills, but take it slowly as there are several hairpin bends. It's possible to reach Tannersville from NYC by bus with Trailways (www.trailwaysny.com), but you'll have to change services in Kingston.

WORTH A TRIP

SAUGERTIES

Around 10 miles northeast of Woodstock, the town of Saugerties (www.discoversaugerties.com) dates back to the Dutch settling here in the mid-17th century. Today it's well worth making a day trip to a couple of local attractions. Opus 40 Sculpture Park & Museum is where artist Harvey Fite worked for nearly four decades to coax an abandoned quarry into an immense work of land art, all sinuous walls, canyons and pools. The picturesque 1869 Saugerties Lighthouse ( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-247-0656; www.saugertieslighthouse.com; 168 Lighthouse Dr, Saugerties; tour suggested donation adult/child $5/3; htrail dawn-dusk), on the point where Esopus Creek joins the Hudson, can be reached by a half-mile nature trail. Classic rock lovers may also want to search out Big Pink ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.bigpinkbasement.com; Parnassus Lane, West Saugerties; house $480; aW), the house made famous by Bob Dylan and the Band, although note it's on a private road. It's possible to stay at both the Lighthouse and Big Pink, but you'll need to book well ahead.

Woodstock

A minor technicality: the 1969 music festival was actually held in Bethel, an hour's drive west. Nonetheless, the town of Woodstock still attracts an arty, music-loving crowd and cultivates the free spirit of that era, with rainbow tie-dye style and local grassroots everything, from radio to a respected indie film festival and a farmers market (fittingly billed as a farm festival).

1Sights

Center for Photography at WoodstockARTS CENTER

( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-679-9957; www.cpw.org; 59 Tinker St; hnoon-5pm Thu-Sun)F

Founded in 1977, this creative space gives classes, hosts lectures and mounts exhibitions that expand the strict definition of the art form, thanks to a lively artist-in-residence program.

This was formerly the Café Espresso, and Bob Dylan once had a writing studio above it – that’s where he typed up the liner notes for Another Side of Bob Dylan in 1964 – and Janis Joplin was a regular performer.

Opus 40 Sculpture Park & MuseumPARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-246-3400; www.opus40.org; 50 Fite Rd, Saugerties; adult/child $10/3; h11am-5:30pm Thu-Sun May-Sep)

Beginning in 1938, artist Harvey Fite worked for nearly four decades to coax an abandoned quarry into an immense work of land art, all sinuous walls, canyons and pools.

The park is 5.5 miles east of Woodstock.

Karma Triyana DharmachakraBUDDHIST MONASTERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-679-5906; www.kagyu.org; 335 Meads Mountain Rd; 8:30am-5:30pm)

Join stressed-out New Yorkers and others needing a spiritual break and get your karma and chakras checked at this blissful Buddhist monastery about 3 miles from Woodstock. Soak up the serenity in the carefully tended grounds. Inside the shrine room is a giant golden Buddha statue; as long as you take off your shoes, you’re welcome to sit down and meditate.

4Sleeping & Eating

Woodstock Inn on the MillstreamINN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-679-8211; www.woodstock-inn-ny.com; 48 Tannery Brook Rd; r/cottage from $159/375; aW)

Pleasantly decorated in quiet pastels, some of the rooms at this inn surrounded by serene, flower-filled grounds, come with kitchenettes and electric fireplaces.

White Dove RockotelINN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-306-5419; www.thewhitedoverockotel.com; 148 Tinker St; r/ste from $125/250; W#)

This purple-painted Victorian certainly stands out from the crowd – but its nothing compared to the rooms! The six units, split over two properties, are decorated with psychedelic colors, posters, record players and vintage vinyl. The suites feature kitchens.

It's one of the few places in town that doesn't require guests to book two or more nights.

oGarden CafeVEGAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %845-679-3600; www.thegardencafewoodstock.com; 6 Old Forge Rd; mains $9-20; h11:30am-9pm Mon & Wed-Fri, 10am-9pm Sat & Sun; v)

All the ingredients used at this relaxed, charming cafe are organic. The food served is appealing, tasty and fresh, and includes salads, sandwiches, rice bowls and veggie lasagna. It also serves freshly made juices, smoothies, organic wines, craft beers, and coffee with a variety of nondairy milks.

Finger Lakes

Stretching across west-central New York, the rolling hills are cut through by 11 long narrow bodies of water – the eponymous Finger Lakes. The region is an outdoor paradise, as well as the state's premier wine-growing region, with more than 120 vineyards.

At the south of Cayuga Lake, Ithaca, home to Ivy League Cornell University, is the region's gateway and a good base. At the northern tip of Seneca Lake, Geneva is also a pretty and lively town, thanks to the student population at Hobart and William Smith Colleges. Here the restored 1894 Smith Opera House is a vibrant center for performing arts.

To the west, Y-shaped Keuka Lake is edged by two small state parks that keep it relatively pristine; it's a favorite for trout fishing. Base yourself at sweet little Hammondsport, on the southwest end. Arts and crafts lovers should also schedule a stop in Corning to see the brilliant glass museum there.

8Getting There & Around

Ithaca is the region's major hub with several daily bus connections to NYC ($53.50, five hours). Ithaca Tompkins Regional Airport has direct flights to Detroit, Newark and Philadelphia.

Ithaca

An idyllic home for college students and first-wave hippies, Ithaca, on the southern tip of Cayuga Lake, is the largest town around the Finger Lakes. With an art-house cinema, good eats and great hiking ('Ithaca is gorges' goes the slogan, for all the surrounding canyons and waterfalls), it's both a destination in itself and a convenient halfway point between NYC and Niagara Falls.

The center of Ithaca is a pedestrian street called the Commons. On a steep hill above is Ivy League Cornell University, founded in 1865, with a small business strip at the campus' front gates, called Collegetown. The drive from Ithaca up scenic Rte 89 (west side) or Rte 90 (east side) to Seneca Falls, at the north end of Cayuga Lake, takes about an hour.

1Sights

oHerbert F Johnson Museum of ArtMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %607-255-6464; www.museum.cornell.edu; 114 Central Ave; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)F

IM Pei's brutalist building looms like a giant concrete robot above the ornate neo-Gothic surrounds of Cornell's campus. Inside you'll find an eclectic collection ranging from medieval wood carvings to modern masters. Even if the art doesn't engage you, the panoramic views of Ithaca and Cayuga Lake from the top floor galleries will.

Cornell Botanic GardensGARDENS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %607-255-2400; www.cornellbotanicgardens.org; 124 Comstock Knoll Dr; hgrounds dawn-dusk, visitor center 10am-4pm)F

The verdant spaces in and around campus includes a 100-acre arboretum, a botanical garden and numerous trails. Stop at the Nevin Welcome Center for maps and to find out about tours.

A great way to reach here is by hiking up the dramatic Cascadilla Gorge ( GOOGLE MAP ; College Ave Bridge), which starts near the center of town.

Robert H Treman State ParkSTATE PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %607-273-3440; www.parks.ny.gov; 105 Enfield Falls Rd; per car Apr-Oct $8)

Five and a half miles southwest of Ithaca, the biggest state park in the area offers extensive trails and a very popular swimming hole (late June to early September). Treman's gorge trail passes a stunning 12 waterfalls: don't miss Devil's Kitchen and Lucifer Falls, a multi-tiered wonder that spills Enfield Creek over rocks for about 100ft.

WORTH A TRIP

AURORA

Around 28 miles north of Ithaca on the east side of Cayuga Lake is the picturesque village of Aurora. Established in 1795, the village has over 50 buildings on the National Register of Historic places, including parts of the campus of Wells College, founded in 1868 for the higher education of women (it's now co-ed). The Inns of Aurora, which is composed of four grand properties – the Aurora Inn (1833), EB Morgan House (1858), Rowland House (1903) and Wallcourt Hall (1909) – is a wonderful place to stay. Alternatively stop by the Aurora Inn's lovely dining room for a meal with lakeside views and pick up a copy of the self-guided walking tour of the village.

4Sleeping

Firelight CampsTENTED CAMP$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %607-229-1644; www.firelightcamps.com; 1150 Danby Rd; tent Sun-Thu/Fri & Sat $189/259; hmid-May-Oct; W)

Glamping comes to Ithaca at this attractive site attached to the La Tourelle Hotel and with quick access to the trails of nearby Buttermilk Falls State Park. The safari-style canvas tents rise over hardwood platforms and comfy beds. The bathhouse is separate. There's a campfire in the evenings and yoga on Saturday mornings.

oWilliam Henry Miller InnB&B$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %877-256-4553; www.millerinn.com; 303 N Aurora St; r from $195; aiW)

Gracious and grand, and only a few steps from the Commons, this is a historic home with luxurious rooms (two with whirlpool tubs and two in a separate carriage house), gourmet breakfast and a dessert buffet.

oInns of AuroraHISTORIC HOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %315-364-8888; www.innsofaurora.com; 391 Main St, Aurora; r $200-400; paW)

This beautiful historic hotel is composed of four properties: the main Aurora Inn, built in 1833 and little changed on the outside since, with 10 lovely rooms and a splendid dining room; Rowland House with 10 more rooms; E B Morgan House with seven rooms; and Wallcourt Hall, the most modern of the designs, but with no lake views.

5Eating & Drinking

Ithaca BakeryCAFE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %607-273-7110; www.ithacabakery.com; 400 N Meadow St; sandwiches $5-11; h6am-8pm Sun-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat; v)

An epic selection of pastries, smoothies, sandwiches and prepared food, serving Ithacans of every stripe. Ideal for picnic goods and for vegetarians and vegans.

oMoosewood RestaurantVEGETARIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %607-273-9610; www.moosewoodcooks.com; 215 N Cayuga St; mains $8-18; h11:30am-8:30pm; v)

Established in 1973, this near-legendary veggie restaurant is run by a collective. It has a slightly upscale feel, with a full bar and global menu.

Sacred Root Kava Lounge & Tea BarTEAHOUSE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %607-272-5282; www.sacredrootkava.com; 139 W State St; h4pm-midnight)

Pretty much alternative as it gets for Ithaca is this chilled basement space serving the Polynesian non-alcoholic, psychoactive beverage kava. If that's not your bag, then there's a nice range of teas. Check online for events.

The entrance is on S Geneva St, beneath the Cornell Daily Sun building.

8Getting There & Away

Ithaca Tompkins Regional Airport (ITH; GOOGLE MAP ; %607-257-0456; www.flyithaca.com; 1 Culligan Dr) receives flights from Delta and United. Greyhound and Shortline buses ($50, five hours, daily) pull into Ithaca Bus Station ( GOOGLE MAP ; 710 W State St).

Seneca Falls

The quiet, post-industrial town of Seneca Falls is said to have inspired visiting director Frank Capra to create Bedford Falls, the fictional small American town in his classic movie It's a Wonderful Life. Indeed, you can stand on a bridge crossing the town's river and just picture Jimmy Stewart doing the same. The town also has a special place in the history of democratization of the country as the location of the chapel where Elizabeth Cady Stanton and friends declared in 1848 that 'all men and women are created equal,' the first step towards women's suffrage.

1Sights

Women's Rights National Historical ParkMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %315-568-0024; www.nps.gov/wori; 136 Fall St; h9am-5pm Fri-Sun)F

Visit the chapel where Elizabeth Cady Stanton and friends declared in 1848 that 'all men and women are created equal,' the first step towards women's suffrage. The adjacent museum tells the story, including the complicated relationship with abolition.

National Women's Hall of FameMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %315-568-8060; www.womenofthehall.org; 76 Fall St; adult/child $4/free; hnoon-4pm Wed-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat)

The tiny National Women's Hall of Fame honors inspiring American women. Learn about some of the 256 inductees, including first lady Abigail Adams, American Red Cross founder Clara Barton and civil-rights activist Rosa Parks.

4Sleeping & Eating

Gould HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %877-788-4010; www.thegouldhotel.com; 108 Fall St; r $169; aW)

Originally a 1920s-era hotel, the downtown building has undergone a stylish renovation with a nod to the past – the mahogany bar comes from an old Seneca Falls saloon. The standard rooms are small, but the decor, in metallic purple and gray, is quite flash. The hotel's upscale restaurant and tavern serves local food, wine and beer.

Mac's Drive InBURGERS$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %315-539-3064; www.macsdrivein.net; 1166 US-20/Rte 5, Waterloo; mains $4-8; h10:30am-10pm Fri-Sun Apr-Oct)

Midway between Seneca Falls and Geneva, this classic drive-in restaurant established in 1961 (and little changed since) serves up burgers, fried chicken and fish dinners at bargain prices.

8Getting There & Away

The best way to get to Seneca Falls is by car.

The Adirondacks

The Adirondack Mountains (www.visitadirondacks.com) may not compare in drama and height with mountains in the western US, but they make up for it in area: the range covers 9375 sq miles, from the center of New York just north of the state capital Albany, up to the Canadian border. And with 46 peaks over 4000ft high, the Adirondacks provide some of the most wild-feeling terrain in the east. Like the Catskills to the south, much of the Adirondacks' dense forest and lake lands are protected by the state constitution, and it's a fabulous location to see the color show of autumn leaves. Hiking, canoeing and backcountry camping are the most popular activities, and there's good fishing, along with power-boating on the bigger lakes.

GREAT CAMPS

Far from big fields of canvas tents, the Adirondacks' 'great camps' were typically lake and mountainside compounds of grandiose log cabins built by the very wealthy, in the latter half of the 19th century, as rustic retreats. A prime example is Great Camp Sagamore (Sagamore Institute; GOOGLE MAP ; %315-354-5311; www.greatcampsagamore.org; Sagamore Rd, Raquette Lake; tours adult/child $16/8; hhours vary mid-May–mid-Oct), a former Vanderbilt vacation estate on the west side of the Adirondacks, which is now open to the public for tours, workshops and overnight stays on occasional history-oriented weekends.

Less ostentatious is White Pine Camp ( GOOGLE MAP ; %518-327-3030; www.whitepinecamp.com; 432 White Pine Rd, Paul Smiths; r/cabin from $165/315; W), 12 miles northwest of Saranac Lake. This collection of rustically cozy cabins is set amid pine forests, wetlands and scenic Osgood Pond – a boardwalk leads out to an island on which sits a Japanese-style teahouse and an antique all-wood bowling alley. The fact that President Calvin Coolidge spent a few summer months here in 1926 is an interesting historical footnote, but the camp's charm comes through in its modest luxuries such as claw-footed tubs and wood-burning fireplaces. Naturalist walking tours are open to nonguests on select days from mid-June to September.

8Getting There & Around

The area's main airport is in Albany, although Adirondack Regional Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %518-891-4600; www.adirondackairport.com; 96 Airport Rd) in Saranac Lake has connections via Cape Air (www.capeair.com) to Boston.

Both Greyhound (www.greyhound.com) and Trailways (www.trailwaysny.com) serve Albany and various towns in the Adirondacks, though a car is essential for exploring widely.

Amtrak (www.amtrak.com) runs from NYC to Albany (from $43, 2½ hours) and on to Ticonderoga ($68, five hours) and Westport ($68, six hours), on Lake Champlain, with a bus connection to Lake Placid ($93, seven hours).

Albany

Built between 1965 and 1976, the architectural ensemble of government buildings in Albany's central Empire State Plaza is a sight to behold and includes the excellent New York State Museum as well as a fine collection of modern public art. Downtown and around leafy Washington Park, stately buildings and gracious brownstones speak to the state capital's wealthy past.

Albany became state capital in 1797 because of its geographic centrality to local colonies and its strategic importance in the fur trade. These days its as much synonymous with legislative dysfunction as with legislative power. Its struggling economy is reflected in the number of derelict and abandoned buildings (the ones with white cross signs on a red background). Even so, the locals' friendliness and the city's usefulness as a gateway to the Adirondacks and Hudson Valley make it worth more than a casual look.

1Sights

oEmpire State PlazaPUBLIC ART

( GOOGLE MAP ; %518-473-7521; www.empirestateplaza.org)F

While the plaza's ensemble of architecture surrounding a central pool is hugely impressive, it's the splendid collection of modern American art liberally sprinkled outside, inside and underground the complex that is the true highlight here. The collection includes sculptures and massive paintings by Mark Rothko, Jackson Pollock, Alexander Calder and many other star artists.

oNew York State MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %518-474 5877; www.nysm.nysed.gov; 222 Madison Ave; 9:30am-5pm Tue-Sun)F

One of the quirks of Albany being the state capital means that a large chunk of this top-class museum is dedicated to the history and development of New York City. The section on 9/11, including a damaged fire truck and debris from the site, is very moving. For a complete contrast, don't miss a ride on the gorgeous antique carousel ($1) on the 4th floor.

New York State CapitolHISTORIC BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %518-474-2418; www.hallofgovernors.ny.gov; Washington Ave; hguided tours 10am, noon, 2pm & 3pm Mon-Fri)F

Completed in 1899, this grand building is the heart of the state government. The interior features detailed stone carving, carpentry, tile and mosaic work, with highlights being the Great Western Staircase, the Governor's Reception Room and the HH Richardson–designed Senate Chamber.

4Sleeping & Eating

oWashington Park InnBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %518-225-4567; www.washingtonparkinn.com; 643 Madison Ave; r $119-139; aiW)

Rocking chairs on the covered porch and tennis rackets for guests to use on the courts in the park across the road set the relaxed tone for this appealing hotel in one of Albany's heritage buildings. Rooms are big and stylishly decorated, and food and drink is available on a serve-yourself basis round the clock from the well-stocked kitchen.

oCafe MadisonBREAKFAST$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %518-935-1094; www.cafemadisonalbany.com; 1108 Madison Ave; mains $10-15; h7:30am-2pm Mon-Thu, to 3pm Fri-Sun; v)

Highly popular breakfast spot, especially on the weekend, when 30-minute waits for one of the cozy booths or tables is not uncommon. The staff are unfailingly friendly and the menu includes inventive omelets, hash browns, crepes, vegan options and a wide variety of cocktails.

oGinger ManAMERICAN$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %518-427-5963; www.albanygingerman.com; 234 Western Ave; mains $22-30; h11:30am-10:30pm Mon-Fri, 4:30-11pm Sat)

Oenophiles will adore the Ginger Man with its stellar wine list, not to mention its strong showing of local beers and spirits. And the food is just as good, with generous cheese and charcuterie plates a great way to ease into delicious mains such as veal osso buco and paella.

8Getting There & Away

As state capital, Albany has the full range of transport connections. Albany International Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %518-242-2200; www.albanyairport.com; Albany Shaker Rd, Colonie) is 10 miles north of downtown. The Amtrak Albany-Rensselaer Station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-872 7245; www.amtrak.com; 525 East St, Rensselaer), on the east bank of the Hudson River, has services connecting with the rest of the state. Greyhound and Trailways bus services pull into and out of the centrally located bus terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; %518-427-7060; 34 Hamilton St).

Lake George

Lake George (www.visitlakegeorge.com), the southern gateway to the Adirondacks, is a majorly touristy town with arcades, fireworks every Thursday in July and August, and paddle-wheel-boat rides on the crystalline, 32-mile-long lake of the same name. It's a seasonal resort, so don't expect much to be be going on between November and May. More upscale is the village of Bolton Landing, 11 miles north on the west bank of Lake George.

1Sights & Activities

Fort William Henry MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %518-668-5471; www.fwhmuseum.com; 48 Canada St; adult/child $17/8, ghost tours $18/8; h9:30am-6pm May-Oct; c)

Guides dressed as 18th-century British soldiers muster visitors along, with stops for battle reenactments that include firing period muskets and cannons, at this replica of the 1755 wooden fort. Check online for details of the evening ghost tours.

Hyde Collection Art MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %518-792-1761; www.hydecollection.org; 161 Warren St, Glens Falls; adult/child $12/free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, noon-5pm Sun)

This remarkable gathering of art was amassed by local newspaper heiress Charlotte Pryun Hyde. In her rambling Florentine Renaissance mansion, 12 miles south of Lake George, you’ll stumble across Rembrandts, Rubens, Matisses and Eakins, as well as tapestries, sculptures and turn-of-the-century furnishings.

Lake George Steamboat CruisesCRUISE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %518-668-5777; www.lakegeorgesteamboat.com; 57 Beach Rd; adult/child from $16/7.50; hMay-Oct)

In 2017 this company celebrated 200 years of running cruise boats on Lake George. In season take your pick between a variety of cruise options on its three vessels: the authentic steamboat Minnie-Ha-Ha, the 1907-vintage Mohican, and the flagship Lac du Saint Sacrement.

5Eating

Saltwater CowboySEAFOOD$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %518-685-3116; 164 Canada St; mains $11-28; h11am-9pm May-Oct)

Never mind the super-casual, order-at-the-counter setup – this place has excellent fried clams and scallops, plus mammoth lobster rolls. Wash it down with fresh lemonade.

8Getting There & Away

Albany International Airport is 50 miles south of Lake George. Amtrak stops in Fort Edwards, about 20 minutes by car from Lake George. Greyhound and Trailways also have long-distance buses to the region. A rental car is the best way of getting around the lake area.

Lake Placid

The resort town of Lake Placid is synonymous with snow sports – it hosted the Winter Olympics in 1932 and 1980. Elite athletes continue to train here; the rest of us can ride real bobsleds, speed-skate and more. Mirror Lake (the main lake in town) freezes thick enough for ice-skating, tobogganing and dogsledding. The town is also pleasant in summer, as the unofficial center of the High Peaks region of the Adirondacks and a great base for striking out on a hike or going canoeing or kayaking on one of the area's many lakes.

WORTH A TRIP

SARANAC LAKE

Saranac Lake is not as tourist-oriented as its neighbor Lake Placid and gives a better idea of regular Adirondacks life. The town, built up in the early 20th century as a retreat for tuberculosis patients, has an attractive old-fashioned main street leading towards the lake. Many other stretches of water pepper the surrounding forested hills, making this another great base for hiking, kayaking and canoeing; for full details of what's available in the area see www.saranaclake.com.

1Sights & Activities

A major draw at Lake Placid is the opportunity to play like an Olympian (or just watch athletes train). Most activities are managed by Whiteface Mountain ( GOOGLE MAP ; %518-946-2223; www.whiteface.com; 5021 Rte 86, Wilmington; full-day lift ticket adult/child $92/58, gondola only $22/free; h8:30am-4pm Dec-Apr), the ski area where the Olympic ski races were held, but located in other spots around the area. Among other activities, you can do a half-mile on the bobsled track ($95) or a modified biathlon (cross-country skiing and shooting; $55). A private group organizes speed-skating rental and tutorials ($20) at the Olympic Center. Many sports are modified for summer – bobsledding on wheels, for instance. The Olympic Sites Passport ($35), available at all Whiteface-managed venues, can be a good deal, covering admission at sites (such as the tower at the ski-jump complex and the gondola ride at Whiteface Mountain) and offering discounts on some activities.

Olympic CenterSTADIUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %518-523-3330; www.whiteface.com; 2634 Main St; tours $10, adult/child skating $8/5, skating shows $10/8; h10am-5pm, skating shows 4:30pm Fri; c)

This is the location of the 1980 'Miracle on Ice,' when the upstart US team trumped the unstoppable Soviets. In winter you can skate on the outside oval rink and year-round take a one-hour tour of the stadium.

Also here is a small museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; %518-523-3330; www.whiteface.com; 2634 Main St; adult/child $7/5; h10am-5pm). There are usually figure-skating shows on Fridays, with an additional show Saturdays at 7:30pm July and August.

Whiteface Veteran's Memorial HighwaySCENIC DRIVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.whiteface.com; Rte 431; driver & vehicle $15, additional passengers $8; h8:45am-5:15pm mid-Jun–mid-Oct)

Whiteface, the state's 5th highest peak at 4867ft, is the only summit in the Adirondacks accessible by car, with a neat castle-style lookout and cafe at the top. It can be socked in with clouds, making for an unnerving drive up, but when the fog clears, the 360-degree view is awe-inspiring. Tolls are paid at Lake Steven.

4Sleeping & Eating

oAdirondack LojLODGE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %518-523-3441; www.adk.org; 1002 Adirondack Loj Rd; dm/r $60/169, lean-tos/cabins from $22.50/179; pW)

The Adirondack Mountain Club runs this rustic retreat on the shore of pretty Heart Lake. All rooms in the lodge share communal bathrooms. Rates include breakfast, and since it's 8 miles south of Lake Placid, you'll like want to arrange a trail lunch and dinner here, too.

oLake Placid LodgeHERITAGE HOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %518-523-2700; www.lakeplacidlodge.com; 144 Lodge Way; r $500-1000; hMay-Mar; pnaiW)

Overlooking Lake Placid and channeling the rustic glamor of classic Gilded Age Adirondack lodges, this luxury hotel offers 13 gorgeously decorated rooms and cabins. The cabins are 19th-century originals, but the main hotel is a remarkable reconstruction following a devastating 2008 fire.

Liquids & Solids at the HandlebarAMERICAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %518-837-5012; www.liquidsandsolids.com; 6115 Sentinel Rd; mains $10-20; h4-10pm Tue-Sat, 5-9pm Sun)

It's all about craft beers, creative cocktails and fresh, inventive dishes at this rustic bar and restaurant where the kielbasa sausages and other charcuterie are made in-house. Mains may include dishes such as fried trout or crispy pig head.

8Getting There & Away

Trailways (www.trailwaysny.com) serves Lake Placid. Amtrak (www.amtrak.com) runs once a day to Westport, with a bus connection to Lake Placid ($93, seven hours).

Adirondack Regional Airport, 17 miles northwest near Saranac Lake, has connections via Cape Air (www.capeair.com) to Boston.

Thousand Islands

To downstate New Yorkers, this region is the source of the Thousand Islands salad dressing made of ketchup, mayonnaise and relish. In fact, it's a scenic wonderland along Lake Ontario and the St Lawrence River speckled with 1864 islands of all shapes and sizes either side of the US–Canada maritime border. The area was a Gilded Age playground for the rich; now it's more populist. Pros: beautiful sunsets, good-value lodging and Canada across the water. Cons: dead in winter, very large mosquitoes in summer (bring ample repellent).

The historic port of Oswego is the southern gateway to the region and makes a good base for exploring places such as Sackets Harbor, where reenactors stage an annual War of 1812 Weekend. On the north side, Clayton and Alexandria Bay both offer boat tours to the islands in the St Lawrence River, or you could camp amid glorious nature in the Wellesley Island State Park.

8Getting There & Around

The main airport for the region is Syracuse Hancock International Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %315-454-4330; www.syrairport.org; 1000 Colonel Eileen Collins Blvd, Syracuse); connections here include NYC on JetBlue and Delta; Newark, Washington DC and Chicago on United; and Toronto on Air Canada. Cars can be rented at the airport or in downtown Syracuse, which is connected to other parts of the state by bus and train.

Alexandria Bay

Alexandria Bay (A-Bay or Alex Bay), an early 20th-century resort town, is the center of tourism on the American side of the Thousand Islands region. While it's somewhat rundown and a bit tacky, there's enough around to keep you occupied, with Alex Bay and nearby Schermerhorn Harbor the bases for boat trips to the castle follies built by Gilded Age tycoons on Heart and Dark Islands.

WORTH A TRIP

WELLESLEY ISLAND STATE PARK

Midway between Clayton and Alexandria Bay, cross the Thousand Islands International Bridge (toll $2.75) to access Wellesley Island, the largest of the Thousand Islands on the US side of the border. Covering a 2636-acre chunk of the island's southern tip is the state park ( GOOGLE MAP ; %315-482-2722; www.parks.ny.gov; Fineview; beach all day/after 4pm $7/4; hstate park year-round, swimming 11am-7pm Jul & Aug) packed with wildlife and offering a nature center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %315-482-2479; www.parks.ny.gov; Nature Center Rd, Fineview; h8:30am-4pm), a beautiful swimming beach, and excellent camping options ( GOOGLE MAP ; %315-482-2722; www.parks.ny.gov; 44927 Cross Island Rd, Fineview; campsites/cabins/cottages from $18/68/100), with riverfront tent sites, cabins and family cottages.

1Sights & Activities

oBoldt CastleCASTLE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-847-5263; www.boldtcastle.com; Heart Island; adult/child $9.50/6.50; h10am-6:30pm May−mid-Oct)

This Gothic gem, a replica of a German castle, was (partly) built by tycoon hotelier George C Boldt in the late 19th century. In 1904, however, midway through construction, Boldt's wife died suddenly, and the project was abandoned. Since 1977 the Thousand Islands Bridge Authority has spent millions restoring the place to something of its planned grandeur.

Singer CastleCASTLE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %877-327-5475; www.singercastle.com; Dark Island; adult/child $14.50/7.50; h10am-4pm mid-May–mid-Oct)

This stone castle, on Dark Island in the middle of the St Lawrence River, was built in 1905 by American entrepreneur Frederick Bourne. It's full of secret passages and hidden doors and has a dungeon – all of which you'll see on a tour. Uncle Sam runs boats from Alex Bay; Schermerhorn Harbor ( GOOGLE MAP ; %315-324-5966; www.schermerhornharbor.com; 71 Schermerhorn Landing, Hammond; shuttle to Singer Castle $31; h10:30am-2:30pm May-Sep) also visits.

Uncle Sam Boat TourBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %315-482-2611; www.usboattours.com; 45 James St, Alexandria Bay; 2hr tour adult/child $23/11.50)

The main offering from the largest boat-tour operator in the area is a two-hour ride that visits both the US and Canada sides of the river (no passport required) and stops at Boldt Castle.

4Sleeping & Eating

Bonnie CastleRESORT$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-955-4511; www.bonniecastle.com; 31 Holland St; r $100-250; aWs)

This somewhat run-down resort, one of Alex Bay's largest and open year-round, offers a variety of rooms, some with nice views across the St Lawrence River towards Boldt Castle.

Dockside PubAMERICAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %315-482-9849; www.thedocksidepub.com; 17 Market St; mains $8-18; h11am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; c)

Unpretentious pub fare – burgers, fries, pizza and some specials. Despite the name it's location is inland, with no dock view.

8Getting There & Away

Alexandria Bay on Rte 12 is best reached by car.

Western New York

Much activity in this region revolves around Buffalo, New York State's second-largest city. Nicknamed the Queen City, for being the largest and most prosperous metropolis along the Great Lakes at the turn of the 19th century, Buffalo fell on hard times in the 20th, but is bouncing back in the 21st. Its amazing stock of heritage architecture is being restored and reinvented into hotels, museums and other businesses.

The area first developed thanks to the hydroelectric power of Niagara Falls and the Erie Canal, which linked the Great Lakes to the Atlantic Ocean. The falls are now better known as a tourist destination, with millions of visitors flocking here annually. You can find out more about the canal in the town of Lockport. Also worth visiting are East Aurora, home to the arts and crafts Roycroft community, and Letchworth State Park with its magnificent waterfalls.

8Getting There & Around

Buffalo Niagara International Airport is a regional hub with the widest range of flights, but you can also fly into and out of Niagara Falls International Airport. Amtrak runs trains to both Buffalo and Niagara, with connections to and from NYC, Albany, Toronto, and from Buffalo to/from Chicago. Greyhound has bus services to both Buffalo and Niagara. For other places in the region you are best getting there by rental car.

Buffalo

The winters may be long and cold, but Buffalo stays warm with a vibrant creative community and strong local pride. Settled by the French in 1758, the city is believed to derive its name from beau fleuve (beautiful river). With power from nearby Niagara Falls, it boomed in the early 1900s; Pierce-Arrow cars were made here, and it was the first American city to have electric streetlights. One of its nicknames – Queen City – was because it was the largest and most prosperous city along the Great Lakes.

Those rosy economic times are long over, leaving many abandoned industrial buildings in their wake. This said, revival is in Buffalo's air. Masterpieces of late 19th- and early 20th-century architecture, including designs by Frank Lloyd Wright and HH Richardson, have been magnificently restored. There's a gracious park system laid out by Frederick Law Olmsted, of NYC's Central Park fame, great museums, and a positive vibe that's impossible to ignore.

1Sights & Activities

oBuffalo City HallARCHITECTURE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %716-852-3300; www.preservationbuffaloniagara.org; 65 Niagara Sq; htours noon Mon-Fri)F

This 32-story art-deco masterpiece, beautifully detailed inside and out and opened in 1931, towers over downtown. It's worth joining the free tour at noon that includes access to the mayor's office, the council chamber and the open-air observation deck.

oMartin House ComplexARCHITECTURE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %716-856-3858; www.darwinmartinhouse.org; 125 Jewett Pkwy; tour basic/extended $19/37; htours hourly 10am-3pm Wed-Mon)

This 15,000-sq-ft house, built between 1903 and 1905, was designed by Frank Lloyd Wright for his friend and patron Darwin D Martin. Representing Wright's Prairie House ideal, it consists of six interconnected buildings (some of which had to be rebuilt), each of which has been meticulously restored inside and out.

oAlbright-Knox Art GalleryMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %716-882-8700; www.albrightknox.org; 1285 Elmwood Ave; adult/child $12/6; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)

The gallery's superb collection, which ranges from Degas and Picasso to Ruscha, Rauschenberg and other abstract expressionists, occupies a neoclassical building planned for Buffalo's 1905 Pan American Expo. Its temporary exhibits are particularly creative and compelling.

Graycliff EstateARCHITECTURE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %716-947-9217; www.graycliffestate.org; 6472 Old Lake Shore Rd, Derby; tours 1/2hr $18/34)

Occupying a dramatic cliff-top location on Lake Erie, 16 miles south of downtown Buffalo, is this 1920s vacation home designed by Frank Lloyd Wright for the wealthy Martin family. Having fallen into much disrepair, restoration has been ongoing for the last 20 years, but you can learn a lot about Wright's overall plan on interesting tours (book in advance).

Guaranty BuildingARCHITECTURE

(Prudential Building; GOOGLE MAP ; www.hodgsonruss.com/Louis-Sullivans-Guaranty-Building.html; 140 Pearl St; hinterpretive center 7:15am-9pm)F

Completed in 1896 for the Guaranty Construction company, this gorgeous piece of architecture has a facade covered in detailed terra-cotta tiles and a superb stained-glass ceiling in its lobby. The interpretative center provides details of how groundbreaking this Adler & Sullivan–designed building was when it was built, when it was the tallest building in Buffalo.

Explore BuffaloTOURS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %716-245-3032; www.explorebuffalo.org; 1 Symphony Circle)

Architectural and history tours around the Buffalo area by bus, on foot and by bicycle and kayak.

4Sleeping

oHostel Buffalo NiagaraHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %716-852-5222; www.hostelbuffalo.com; 667 Main St; dm/r $30/85; aiW)

Conveniently located in Buffalo's downtown Theater District, this hostel occupies three floors of a former school, with a basement rec room, plenty of kitchen and lounge space, a small art gallery, and spotless if institutional bathrooms. Services include laundry facilities, free bikes, and lots of info on local music, food and arts happenings.

oInnBuffalo off ElmwoodGUESTHOUSE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %716-867-7777; www.innbuffalo.com; 619 Lafayette Ave; ste $139-249; aW)

Ellen and Joe Lettieri have done a splendid job restoring this 1898 mansion, originally built for local brass and rubber magnate HH Hewitt. Preservation is ongoing, but the building has already recovered much of its grandeur and the 9 suites are beautifully decorated, some with original features such as a Victorian needle-spray shower.

Hotel HenryHERITAGE HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %716-882-1970; www.hotelhenry.com; cnr Rockwell Rd & Cleveland Circle; r from $199; paW)

Occupying a grand late-19th-century lunatic asylum, Hotel Henry preserves much of the stately architecture of Henry Richardson's original building. Its 88 rooms, reached off super-broad corridors, have tall ceilings and contemporary decor.

5Eating

oBetty'sAMERICAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %716-362-0633; www.bettysbuffalo.com; 370 Virginia St; mains $16-24; h8am-9pm Tue-Thu, to 10pm Fri, 9am-10pm Sat, to 2pm Sun; v)

On a quiet Allentown corner, bohemian Betty's does flavorful, fresh interpretations of American comfort food such as meatloaf. Brunch is deservedly popular and there's a pleasant bar.

Plenty of vegetarian, as well as gluten- and dairy-free, options are on the menu.

oCole'sAMERICAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %716-886-1449; www.colesonelmwood.com; 1104 Elmwood Ave; mains $11.50-15; h11am-11pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, to 10pm Sun; W)

Since 1934 this atmospheric restaurant and bar has been dishing up local favorites such as beef on weck (roast beef on a caraway-seed roll) – try it with a side of spicy Buffalo chicken wings, or go for one of the juicy burgers. It's handy for lunch if you are visiting the Delaware Park area and its museums.

The spacious bar, decorated with all kinds of vintage stuff, offers scores of beers on tap.

oBlack SheepINTERNATIONAL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %716-884-1100; www.blacksheepbuffalo.com; 367 Connecticut St; mains $28-42; h5-10pm Tue-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat, 11am-2pm Sun)

Black Sheep likes to describe its style of western New York farm-to-table cuisine as 'global nomad,' which means you might find pig-head stew alongside chef Steve Gedra's grandma's recipe for chicken paprikash (recommended!). You can also eat at the bar, which serves creative cocktails and local craft ales.

6Drinking & Entertainment

oResurgence Brewing CompanyMICROBREWERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %716-381-9868; www.resurgencebrewing.com; 1250 Niagara St; h4-10pm Tue-Thu, to 11:30pm Fri, noon-11:30pm Sat, to 5pm Sun)

Housed in a former engine factory that was later to became the city's dog pound, Resurgence typifies Buffalo's skill at adaptive reuse of its infrastructure. The beers ($8 for a tasting flight) are excellent, with some 20 different ales on tap from fruity sweet Loganberry Wit to a porter with an amazing peanut-butter flavor.

Kleinhans Music HallCLASSICAL MUSIC

( GOOGLE MAP ; %716-883-3560; www.kleinhansbuffalo.org; 3 Symphony Circle)

This fine concert hall, home to the Buffalo Philharmonic Orchestra, has wonderful acoustics. The building is a National Historic Landmark and was partly designed by the famous Finnish father-and-son architecture team of Eliel and Eero Saarinen.

8Getting There & Away

Buffalo Niagara International Airport (BUF; GOOGLE MAP ; %716-630-6000; www.buffaloairport.com; 4200 Genesee St), about 10 miles east of downtown, is a regional hub. JetBlue Airways offers affordable round-trip fares from NYC.

NFTA (www.nfta.com), the local transit service, runs express bus 204 to the Buffalo Metropolitan Transportation Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %716-855-7300; www.nfta.com; 181 Ellicott St) downtown. (Greyhound buses also pull in here.) NFTA local bus 40 goes to the American side of Niagara Falls ($2, one hour); express bus 60 also goes to the area, but requires a transfer.

From Amtrak's downtown Exchange Street Station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %716-856-2075; www.amtrak.com; 75 Exchange St), you can catch trains to NYC ($66, 8¾ hours), Niagara Falls ($14, one hour), Albany ($52, six hours) and Toronto ($44, four hours). All services also stop at Buffalo-Depew Station ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.amtrak.com; 55 Dick Rd), 8 miles east, where you can also board trains to Chicago ($94, 11 hours).

Niagara Falls

It's a tale of two cities: Niagara Falls, New York (USA), and Niagara Falls, Ontario (Canada). Both overlook a natural wonder – 150,000 gallons of water per second, plunging more than 1000ft – and both provide a load of tourist kitsch surrounding it. The Canadian side offers somewhat better views and a much larger town. However, the view from the New York side is still impressive and the falls surroundings are far more pleasant as they are preserved within a beautifully landscaped national park. The town itself is also largely devoid of the commercial razzmatazz you'll find on the Canadian side; if that's what you want, it's easy to walk across the Rainbow Bridge between the two – just be sure to bring your passport.

DON'T MISS

NIAGARA FALLS, CANADA

The Canadian side of the falls is naturally blessed with superior views. Horseshoe Falls, on the west half of the river, are wider than Bridal Veil Falls on the eastern, American side, and they're especially photogenic from Queen Victoria Park.

The Canadian town is also livelier, in an over-the-top touristy way. Chain hotels and restaurants dominate, but there is an HI hostel, and some older motels have the classic honeymooners' heart-shaped tubs.

Crossing the Rainbow Bridge and returning costs US$3.75/50¢ per car/pedestrian. Walking takes about 10 minutes; car traffic can grind to a standstill in summer or if there's a major event on in Toronto. US citizens and overseas visitors must show a passport or an enhanced driver's license at immigration at either end. Driving a rental car from the US over the border should not be a problem, but check with your rental company.