1Midtown

Midtown is like a hipper version of downtown, with plenty of great bars, restaurants and cultural venues.

oHigh Museum of ArtGALLERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.high.org; 1280 Peachtree St NE, Midtown; adult/under 5yr $14.50/free; h10am-5pm Tue-Thu & Sat, to 9pm Fri, noon-5pm Sun)

Atlanta's modern High Museum was the first to exhibit art lent from Paris' Louvre and is a destination as much for its architecture as its world-class exhibits. The striking whitewashed multilevel building houses a permanent collection of eye-catching late-19th-century furniture, early American modern canvases from the likes of George Morris and Albert Gallatin, and postwar work from Mark Rothko.

Atlanta Botanical GardenGARDENS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %404-876-5859; www.atlantabotanicalgarden.org; 1345 Piedmont Ave NE, Midtown; adult/child $19/13; h9am-7pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar; p)

In the northwest corner of Piedmont Park, the stunning 30-acre botanical garden has a Japanese garden, winding paths and the amazing Fuqua Orchid Center.

Margaret Mitchell House & MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %404-249-7015; www.atlantahistorycenter.com; 979 Crescent Ave NE, Midtown; adult/student/child $13/10/8.50; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-5:30pm Sun)

Operated by the Atlanta History Center, this home has been converted into a shrine to the author of Gone With the Wind. Mitchell wrote her epic in a small apartment in the basement of this Tudor Revival building, which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. There are on-site exhibitions on Mitchell's life, writing career, and the film version of Gone With the Wind.

The price of admission also gets you access to the Atlanta History Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %404-814-4000; www.atlantahistorycenter.com; 130 West Paces Ferry Road NW; adult/child $16.50/11; h11am-4pm Mon-Sat, from 1pm Sun).

Piedmont ParkPARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %404-875-7275; www.piedmontpark.org; 400 Park Dr NE, Midtown; h6am-11pm)F

A glorious, rambling urban park and the setting of many cultural and music festivals. The park has fantastic bike paths and a Saturday Green Market.

Skate EscapeCYCLING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %404-892-1292; www.skateescape.com; 1086 Piedmont Ave NE; bicycles & in-line skates per hour from $6; h11am-7pm)

Rents out bicycles and in-line skates. It also has tandems ($12 per hour) and mountain bikes ($25/35 daily/overnight).

ATLANTA CITYPASS

The Atlanta CityPass (www.citypass.com; adult/child $75/59) gets you entry to the World of Coca-Cola, CNN Center, Georgia Aquarium, Zoo Atlanta or the Center for Civil & Human Rights, and College Football Hall of Fame or Fernbank Museum of Natural History. Buy online.

1Sweet Auburn

Auburn Ave was the thumping commercial and cultural heart of African American culture in the 1900s. Today a collection of sights is associated with its most famous son, Martin Luther King Jr, who was born here, preached here and is buried here. All of the King sites are a few blocks' walk from the MARTA King Memorial station; or catch the new Atlanta Streetcar (www.theatlantastreetcar.com), which loops between Sweet Auburn and Centennial Olympic Park ( GOOGLE MAP ) every 10 to 15 minutes.

oMartin Luther King Jr National Historic SiteHISTORIC SITE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %404-331-5190; www.nps.gov/malu; 450 Auburn Ave, Sweet Auburn; h9am-5pm; pc)F

The historic site commemorates the life, work and legacy of the civil rights leader and one of the great Americans. The center takes up several blocks. Stop by the excellent visitor center to get oriented with a map and brochure of area sites, and exhibits that elucidate the context – the segregation, systematic oppression and racial violence that inspired and fueled King's work. A 1.5-mile landscaped trail leads from here to the Carter Center.

Martin Luther King Jr BirthplaceLANDMARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %404-331-5190; www.nps.gov/malu; 501 Auburn Ave, Sweet Auburn; h10am-4pm)F

Free, first-come, first-served guided tours of King's childhood home take about 30 minutes to complete and require same-day registration, which can be made at the National Historic Site visitor center – arrive early, as slots fill fast. The tours can depart anytime between 10am and 4pm, but you are free to visit the rest of the park at your leisure before your designated tour time.

King Center for Non-Violent Social ChangeMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %404-526-8900; www.thekingcenter.org; 449 Auburn Ave NE, Sweet Auburn; h9am-5pm, to 6pm summer)

Across from the National Historic Site visitors center, this place has more information on King's life and work and a few of his personal effects, including his Nobel Peace Prize. His grave site is surrounded by a long reflecting pool and can be viewed any time.

First Ebenezer Baptist ChurchCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %404-331-5190; www.nps.gov/malu; 407 Auburn Ave NE, Sweet Auburn; h9am-5pm)F

Martin Luther King Jr, his father and grandfather were all pastors here, and King Jr's mother was the choir director. Sadly she was murdered here by a deranged gunman while she sat at the organ in 1974. A multimillion-dollar restoration, completed in 2011, brought the church back to the 1960–68 period when King Jr served as co-pastor with his father. Today looped recordings of King's speeches play in the church building.

Sunday services are now held at the new Ebenezer church ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %404-688-7300; www.historicebenezer.org; 101 Jackson St NE, Sweet Auburn; hSun service 9:30am & 11am) across the street.

ATLANTA FOR CHILDREN

Atlanta has plenty of activities to keep children entertained, delighted and educated.

Center for Puppetry Arts ( GOOGLE MAP ; %tickets 404-873-3391; www.puppet.org; 1401 Spring St NW, Midtown; museum $10.50, guided tours $14; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun, closed Mon; c) A wonderland for visitors of all ages and hands-down one of Atlanta's most unique attractions, the museum houses a treasury of puppets, some of which you get to operate yourself. A major addition is the Worlds of Puppetry Museum, housing the most comprehensive collection of Jim Henson puppets and artifacts in the world.

Children's Museum of Atlanta ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.childrensmuseumatlanta.org; 275 Centennial Olympic Park Dr NW; admission $15; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun; c) A hands-on museum geared toward kids aged eight and under. Adults aren't allowed in without a youngster in tow.

Skyview Atlanta ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %678-949-9023; www.skyviewatlanta.com; 168 Luckie St NW; adult/senior/child $14/12/9; hnoon-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri, 10am-11pm Sun; c) Soar 200ft above the Atlanta skyline in this 20-story, 42-gondola Ferris wheel installed in 2013.

Fernbank Museum of Natural History ( GOOGLE MAP ; %404-929-6300; www.fernbankmuseum.org; 767 Clifton Rd; adult/child $18/16; h10am-5pm; pc) Wander around dozens of acres of hardwood forests, or get enraptured by the huge dinosaur exhibits.

1Virgina-Highland

Families enjoy the historic homes and quiet, leafy streets off North Highland Ave. The main focal point of the area is the triangular Virginia-Highland intersection-turned-commercial district, chockablock with restaurants cafes and boutiques – corporate and indie.

Carter CenterMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %404-865-7100; www.jimmycarterlibrary.org; 441 Freedom Pkwy, Poncey-Highland; adult/senior/child $8/6/free; h8am-5pm; p)

Located on a hilltop overlooking downtown, this center features exhibits highlighting Jimmy Carter's presidency (1977–81), including a replica of the Oval Office and his Nobel Prize. Don't miss the tranquil Japanese garden and new butterfly garden out back. The 1.5-mile long, landscaped Freedom Park Trail leads from here to the Martin Luther King Jr National Historic Site through Freedom Park.

zFestivals & Events

Atlanta Jazz FestivalMUSIC

(www.atlantafestivals.com; Piedmont Park; hMay)

This month-long event culminates in live concerts in Piedmont Park on Memorial Day weekend.

Atlanta Pride FestivalLGBT

(www.atlantapride.org; hOct)

Atlanta's annual LGBT festival.

National Black Arts FestivalCULTURAL

(%404-730-7315; www.nbaf.org; hJul)

Artists from across the country converge to celebrate African American music, theater, literature and film.

ATLANTA BELTLINE

The Atlanta BeltLine (www.beltline.org) is an enormous sustainable re-development project that is re-purposing an existing 22-mile rail corridor encircling the city into 33 miles of connected multi-use trails. It is the most comprehensive transportation and economic development effort ever undertaken in Atlanta and among the largest, most wide-ranging urban redevelopment programs currently underway in the US. Of most interest to tourists is the 2.2-mile Eastside Trail, connecting the hip urban neighborhood of Inman Park with Piedmont Park in Midtown.

4Sleeping

Rates at downtown hotels tend to fluctuate wildly depending on whether there is a large convention in town. The least expensive option is to stay in one of the many chain hotels along the MARTA line outside downtown and take the train into the city for sightseeing.

Ellis HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %877-211-2545; www.ellishotel.com; 176 Peachtree St NW; r $150-190; paW#)

The Ellis is a downtown gem with business chic rooms fitted out in warm wooden hues and cool white bedding. Note that the hotel includes a pet-friendly floor, a women's-only floor and a 'Fresh Air' floor (the latter has private access and special cleaning rules aimed at those who suffer from allergies).

Hotel ArtmoreBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %404-876-6100; www.artmorehotel.com; 1302 W Peachtree St, Midtown; r $170-200, ste from $220; paiW)

This 1924 Spanish-Mediterranean architectural landmark has been completely revamped into an artistic boutique hotel that's become an urban sanctuary for those who appreciate their trendiness with a dollop of discretion. It wins all sorts of accolades: excellent service, a wonderful courtyard with fire pit and a superb location across the street from Arts Center MARTA station.

Hotel Indigo DowntownBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %888-233-9450; www.hotelindigo.com; 230 Peachtree St NE; r $135-160; paiW#)

Atlanta's second Hotel Indigo has a superb location near Centennial Park, and a building to match the convenience: a muscular modern structure designed by Atlanta native John Portman. Rooms are crisp and bright, with thoughtful accents like historical photos and splashes of rainbow color.

Highland InnINN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %404-874-5756; www.thehighlandinn.com; 644 N Highland Ave, Virginia-Highland; s/d from $75/105; paW)

This European-style, 65-room independent inn, built in 1927, has appealed to touring musicians over the years. Rooms aren’t huge, but it has a great location in the Virginia-­Highland area and is as affordably comfortable as being downtown. It's one of the few accommodations in town with single rooms.

oUrban Oasis B&BB&B$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %770-714-8618; www.urbanoasisbandb.com; 130a Krog St NE, Inman Park; r $140-215; paW)

Hidden from view inside a gated and repurposed 1950s cotton-sorting warehouse, this wonderful retro-modern loft B&B is urban dwelling at its best. Enter into a huge and funky common area with natural light streaming through massive windows and make your way to one of three rooms, all discerningly appointed with Haywood Wakefield mid-century modern furnishings.

oThe Social Goat B&BB&B$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %404-626-4830; www.thesocialgoatbandb.com; 548 Robinson Ave SE; r $125-245; paW)

Skirting Grant Park, this wonderfully restored 1900 Queen Anne Victorian mansion has six rooms decorated in country French-style and is loaded down with period antiques. More importantly, however, you'll share the real estate with goats, turkeys, chickens and cats. A true country escape, plunked into one of the nation's largest urban areas.

MARTIN LUTHER KING JR: A CIVIL RIGHTS GIANT

Martin Luther King Jr, the quintessential figure of the American Civil Rights movement and arguably America's greatest leader, was born in 1929, the son of an Atlanta preacher and choir leader. His lineage was significant not only because he followed his father to the pulpit of Ebenezer Baptist Church, but also because his political speeches rang out with a preacher's inflections.

In 1955 King led the yearlong 'bus boycott' in Montgomery, AL, which resulted in the US Supreme Court removing laws that enforced segregated buses. From this successful beginning King emerged as an inspiring moral voice.

King espoused a nonviolent approach to racial equality and peace, which he borrowed from Gandhi and used as a potent weapon against hate, segregation and racially motivated violence. He was assassinated on a Memphis hotel balcony in 1968, four years after receiving the Nobel Peace Prize and five years after giving his legendary 'I Have a Dream' speech in Washington, DC.

King remains one of the most recognized and respected figures of the 20th century. Over 10 years he led a movement that helped dismantle a system of statutory discrimination in existence since the country's founding.

5Eating

After New Orleans, Atlanta is the best city in the South to eat, and the food culture here is nothing short of obsessive. The Westside Provisions District, Krog Street Market and Ponce City Market are all newish and hip mixed-use residential and restaurant complexes sprinkled among Atlanta's continually transitioning urban neighborhoods.

5Downtown & Midtown

Empire State SouthSOUTHERN US$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.empirestatesouth.com; 999 Peachtree St; mains $12-36; h7am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Thu-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun; W)

This rustic-hip Midtown bistro serves imaginative New Southern fare and it does not disappoint, be it at breakfast or throughout the remains of the day. They make their own bagels, the attention to coffee detail approaches Pacific Northwest levels, and they mix fried chicken, bacon and pimiento cheese!

No Mas! CantinaMEXICAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %404-574-5678; www.nomascantina.com; 180 Walker St SW; mains $7-20; h8am-10pm; Wc)

Though the design overkill feels a bit like dining inside a hungover piñata, locals are sold on the festive Mexican at this downtown Castleberry Hill cantina. Despite its quiet location, it's walking distance from the New Atlanta Stadium, Phillips Arena, CNN Center and Centennial Park.

Daddy DzBARBECUE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %404-222-0206; www.daddydz.com; 264 Memorial Dr SE; sandwiches $7-13, plates $13-23; h11am-10:30pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat, noon-9pm Sun; p)

A juke joint of a barbecue shack, consistently voted one of the tops in town, with a central location. From the graffiti murals on the red, white and blue exterior, to the all-powerful smoky essence, to the reclaimed booths on the covered patio, there is soul to spare. Order the succulent ribs with cornbread, and you'll leave smiling.

South City KitchenSOUTHERN US$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %404-873-7358; www.southcitykitchen.com; 1144 Crescent Ave; mains $18-40; h11am-3:30pm & 5-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm & 5-10:30pm Sat, 10am-3pm & 5-10pm Sun)

An upscale Southern kitchen featuring tasty updated staples like buttermilk fried chicken served with sautéed collards and mash, and a Georgia trout, pan-fried with roasted heirloom carrots. Start with fried green tomatoes, a Southern specialty before the movie.

5Westside

Star ProvisionsSUPERMARKET$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %404-365-0410; www.starprovisions.com; 1198 Howell Mill Rd; h10am-midnight Mon-Sat; W)

DIY gourmets will feel at home among the cheese shops and butcher cases, bakeries, organic cafe and kitchen hardware depots attached to the city's finest dining establishment, Bacchanalia ( GOOGLE MAP ; %404-365-0410; www.starprovisions.com/bacchanalia; 1198 Howell Mill Rd; prix-fixe per person $95; hfrom 5:30pm; p). Excellent picnic accoutrements.

West Egg CafeDINER$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %404-872-3973; www.westeggcafe.com; 1100 Howell Mill Rd; mains $6-15; h7am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun; pWc)

Belly up to the marble breakfast counter or grab a table and dive into black-bean cakes and eggs, turkey sausage Benedict, pimiento cheese and bacon omelet, or a fried green tomato BLT. It's all re-imagined versions of old-school classics, served in a stylish and spare dining room.

oCooks & SoldiersBASQUE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %404-996-2623; www.cooksandsoldiers.com; 691 14th St; small plates $6-19; h5-10pm Sun-Wed, to 11pm Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; Wv)

A game-changing Westside choice, this Basque-inspired hot spot specializes in pintxos (Basque-ified tapas) and wood-fired asadas (grills) designed to share. Both the food and cocktails are outstanding. Highlights include the blood-orange gin and tonic, a black-truffled White American grilled cheese, roasted oysters and cream, and lamb ribs with spiced yogurt.

oOptimistSEAFOOD$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %404-477-6260; www.theoptimistrestaurant.com; 914 Howell Mill Rd; mains $22-34; h11:30am-2:30pm & 5-10pm Mon-Thu, 5-11pm Fri & Sat, 5-10pm Sun; W)S

In a short space, we could never do this Westside sustainable seafood mecca justice. In a word, astonishing! Start with red curry mussels, then move on to a duck-fat-poached swordfish or razor clam chowder with bacon and white beans, and finish with a scoop of housemade salted caramel ice cream.

5Virginia-Highland

VortexBURGERS$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %404-688-1828; www.thevortexbarandgrill.com; 438 Moreland Ave NE, Little Five Points; burgers $8.25-18; h11am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)

An NC-17 joint cluttered with Americana memorabilia, the Godfather of Atlanta burger joints is where alterna-hipsters mingle alongside Texas tourists and Morehouse College steppers. Burgers range from impressive to outlandish but are always some of the most heralded and heart-stopping in Atlanta. The 20ft-tall skull facade is a Little Five Points landmark of pre-Olympic Games outrageousness.

oOctopus BarFUSION$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %404-627-9911; www.octopusbaratl.com; 560 Gresham Ave SE, East Atlanta; dishes $9-15; h10:30pm-2:30am Tue-Sat)

Leave your hang-ups at the hotel – this is punk-rock dining – and get to know what's good at this indoor-outdoor patio dive nuanced with graffitied-up walls and ethereal electronica. No reservations, so line up early, and chow down on smoked branzino fish and grapefruit or pork belly ramen or a ton of other innovative executions of fusion excellence.

Do they keep odd hours? Is seating difficult to come by? Does it take so long to get your grub because the chefs are too busy fielding industry complaints from a room full of sous chefs and servers? The answer, of course, is yes to all of the above.

5East Atlanta

oDish DiveAMERICAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %404-957-7918; www.dishdivekitchen.com; 2233 College Ave NE; mains $8-16; h5-10pm Tue-Sat)

Located in an unmarked house near some railroad tracks, Dish Dive is probably cooler than you. The great thing is, it doesn't care. Anyone is welcome here, and the food – fresh, seasonal cuisine like local catfish with pork collards, chicken pot pie or homemade lasagna – is as cheap as chips. Unpretentious, warm and delicious – we're in love, but make reservations.

The restaurant is located off College Ave, east of downtown.

Northern China EateryCHINESE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %770-458-2282; http://northernchinaeatery.com; 5141 Buford Hwy NE; mains $7-14; h10am-10pm Wed-Mon, closed Tue)

We love a restaurant that is unambiguous about its name – and its cuisine. At the Eatery, you'll find real-deal northern Chinese cuisine: spicy beef lung, dan dan noodles, barbecue lamb and more dumplings than you can shake a (chop)stick at. Located on the Buford Hwy, in far northeast Atlanta.

oGunshowMODERN AMERICAN$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %404-380-1886; www.gunshowatl.com; 924 Garrett St SE; dishes $12-20; h6-9pm Tue-Sat; W)

Celebrity chef Kevin Gillespie's latest light-bulb moment is an unorthodox evening out. Guests choose between over a dozen or so smallish dishes, dreamed up by chefs in the open kitchen, who then hawk their blood, sweat and culinary tears dim-sum-style tableside. It can be agonizing, turning your nose up at a smoked ham hock confit because you're holding out for the Saigon-style Kobe beef tartar, but it's a dining experience like no other, and Atlanta's hottest table.

5Decatur

Independent Decatur, 6 miles east of downtown, is a countercultural enclave and a bona fide foodie destination. Like most traditional Southern towns, the gazebo-crowned Courthouse Square is the center of the action, with a number of restaurants, cafes and shops surrounding it.

Leon's Full ServiceFUSION$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %404-687-0500; www.leonsfullservice.com; 131 E Ponce de Leon Ave; mains $13-27; h5pm-1am Mon, 11:30am-1am Tue-Thu & Sun, to 2am Fri & Sat; W)

Leon's can come across as a bit pretentious, but the gorgeous concrete bar and open floor plan spilling out of a former service station and onto a groovy heated deck with floating beams remains cooler than thou and fully packed at all times. You may find prosciutto wrapped trout and braised short ribs on the changing menu.

Cakes & AleMODERN AMERICAN$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %404-377-7994; www.cakesandalerestaurant.com; 155 Sycamore St; mains $10-36; hcafe 8am-10pm Tue-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat, 9am-3pm Sun, restaurant 6-11pm Tue-Thu, 5:30pm-midnight Fri & Sat)

A Chez Panisse alum and pastry mastermind runs this hip eatery. The bakery-cafe next door has life-affirming hot chocolate along with a case of delectable pastries, while the restaurant features spare but stunning selections that could mean perfectly grilled framani soppresata sandwiches with chard, preserved lemon ricotta and Dijon (a lunch standout), and pork guinea hen or lamb at dinner.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Atlanta has a busy bar scene, ranging from neighborhood dives to hipster hangouts that want to pass for neighborhood dives to straight-up opulent night haunts for the wealthy and beautiful. Wherever you go, you may notice that this city has one of the most racially integrated social scenes in the country, and that's reason enough to raise a glass.

oSister Louisa's Church of the Living Room & Ping Pong EmporiumBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %404-522-8275; www.sisterlouisaschurch.com; 466 Edgewood Ave, Edgewood; h5pm-3am Mon-Fri, 1pm-3am Sat, to midnight Sun; W)

This cradle of Edgewood's bar revival fosters a church theme, but it's nothing like Westminster Abbey. Sacrilegious art peppers every patch of free wall space, the kind of offensive stuff that starts wars in some parts. Praise the resistance to fancy craft cocktails and join the congregation, chuckling at the artistry or staring at mesmerizing table tennis matches.

oArgosyPUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; %404-577-0407; www.argosy-east.com; 470 Flat Shoals Ave SE; h5pm-2:30am Mon-Fri, noon-2:30am Sat, to midnight Sun; W)

This East Atlanta gastropub nails it with an extensive list of rare craft beers, awesome bar food and a vibe that invites you to stay for the rest of the evening. The multi-angled bar snakes its way through a rustic-chic space and living-room-style lounge areas.

Ladybird Grove & Mess HallBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %404-458-6838; www.ladybirdatlanta.com; 684 John Wesley Dobbs Ave NE; h11am-late Tue-Sun, closed Mon)

With an enviable location (and enormous patio) overlooking the BeltLine, Ladybird offers its patrons one of the best drinking views in Atlanta. Compliment that cocktail or draft beer with some of the classy pub grub they offer from their kitchen. Last call depends on how busy the bar is.

Brick Store PubBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %404-687-0990; www.brickstorepub.com; 125 E Court Sq, Decatur; draft beers $5-12; h11am-1am Sun & Mon, to 2am Tue-Sat)

Beer hounds geek out on Atlanta's best craft beer selection at this pub in Decatur, with some 30 meticulously chosen drafts (including those in the more intimate Belgian beer bar upstairs). Nearly 300 beers by the bottle are served from a 15,000-bottle vault, drawing a fun, young crowd every night.

Kimball HouseCOCKTAIL BAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %404-378-3502; www.kimball-house.com; 303 E Howard Ave, Decatur; h5pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat)

Housed in an atmospheric restored train depot slightly off the grid in Decatur, Kimball House harbors a vaguely saloon-like feel and specializes in craft cocktails, absinthe and a long list of flown-in-fresh oysters.

Park TavernBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %404-249-0001; www.parktavern.com; 500 10th Street NE; h4:30pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 11:30am-midnight Sat & Sun; W)

This staple microbrewery-restaurant's outdoor patio on the edge of Piedmont Park is one of the most beautiful spots in Atlanta to sit back and drink away a weekend afternoon.

LGBTIQ ATLANTA

Atlanta – or 'Hotlanta' as some might call it – is one of the few places in Georgia with a noticeable and active gay and lesbian population. Midtown is the center of gay life; the epicenter is around Piedmont Park and the intersection of 10th St and Piedmont Ave, where you can check out Blake's ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %404-892-5786; www.blakesontheparkatlanta.com; 227 10th St NE; h3pm-3am Mon-Fri, 1pm-3am Sat, 1pm-1am Sun), Atlanta's classic gay bar, or 10th & Piedmont ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.communitashospitality.com/10th-and-piedmont; 991 Piedmont Ave NE; h10am-3pm & 5-10pm Mon-Thu, 10am-3pm & 5-11pm Fri, 10am-4pm & 5-11pm Sat, 10am-9pm Sun), good for both food and late-night shenanigans. The town of Decatur, east of downtown Atlanta, has a significant lesbian community. For news and information, grab a copy of David Atlanta (www.davidatlanta.com); also check out www.gayatlanta.com.

Atlanta Pride Festival is a massive annual celebration of the city's gay and lesbian community. It's held in October in and around Piedmont Park.

3Entertainment

Clermont LoungeDANCE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %404-874-4783; http://clermontlounge.net; 789 Ponce de Leon Ave NE, Poncey-Highland; h1pm-3am Mon-Sat)

How to explain the Clermont? First, it's a strip club, the oldest in Atlanta. But not just a strip club. It's a bedrock of the Atlanta scene that welcomes dancers of all ages, races and body types. In short, it's a strip club built for the strippers, although the audience – and everyone comes here at some point – has a grand time as well.

Terminal WestLIVE MUSIC

( GOOGLE MAP ; %404-876-5566; www.terminalwestatl.com; 887 W Marietta St, Westside)

One of Atlanta's best live music venues, this concert space is located inside a beautifully revamped 100-year-old iron and steel foundry on the Westside.

Woodruff Arts CenterARTS CENTER

( GOOGLE MAP ; %404-733-4200; www.woodruffcenter.org; 1280 Peachtree St NE)

This arts complex contains within its campus the High Museum, the Atlanta Symphony Orchestra and the Alliance Theatre.

Variety PlayhouseLIVE MUSIC

( GOOGLE MAP ; %404-524-7354; www.variety-playhouse.com; 1099 Euclid Ave NE, Little Five Points)

A smartly booked and well-run concert venue featuring a variety of touring artists. It's one of the main anchors of the Little Five Points scene.

8Information

Emergency & Medical Services

Atlanta Medical Center (Wellstar Atlanta Medical Center; GOOGLE MAP ; %404-265-4000; www.atlantamedcenter.com; 303 Parkway Dr NE) A tertiary care hospital considered Atlanta's best since 1901.

Media

AAtlanta (www.atlantamagazine.com) A monthly general-interest magazine covering local issues, arts and dining.

AAtlanta Daily World (www.atlantadailyworld.com) The nation's oldest continuously running African American newspaper (since 1928).

AAtlanta Journal-Constitution (www.ajc.com) Atlanta's major daily newspaper, with a good travel section on Sunday.

ACreative Loafing (www.clatl.com) For hip tips on music, arts and theater, this free alternative weekly comes out every Wednesday.

Resources

AScout Mob (www.scoutmob.com) Tips on what's new and hot in Atlanta.

AAtlanta Travel Guide (www.atlanta.net) Official site of the Atlanta Convention & Visitors Bureau with excellent links to shops, restaurants, hotels and upcoming events. Its website also lets you buy a CityPass, a tremendous money saver that bundles admission to five of the city's attractions for a discounted price (see www.citypass.com/atlanta for more).

8Getting There & Away

Atlanta's huge Hartsfield-Jackson International Airport (ATL, Atlanta; GOOGLE MAP ; %800-897-1910; www.atl.com), 12 miles north of downtown, is a major regional hub and an international gateway. It's the busiest airport in the world in overall passenger traffic, and it feels like it.

The Greyhound terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; %404-584-1728; www.greyhound.com; 232 Forsyth St), located next to the MARTA Garnett station, serves Nashville, TN (five hours), New Orleans, LA (10½ hours), New York (20 hours), Miami, FL (16 hours) and Savannah, GA (4¾ hours).

Atlanta's main Amtrak station ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.amtrak.com; 1688 Peachtree St NW) is just north of downtown. Trains depart from here to the Northeast corridor and southern cities like Birmingham and New Orleans.

8Getting Around

The Metropolitan Atlanta Rapid Transit Authority (MARTA; www.itsmarta.com) trains travel to/from the airport to downtown, as well as less useful commuter routes. Each customer must purchase a Breeze Card (www.breezecard.com); you pay $2 for the card, which can then be loaded and reloaded as necessary. MARTA fare is $2.50. The shuttle and car rental agencies have desks in the airport situated at baggage claim.

The Atlanta Streetcar is a nice way of getting around downtown Atlanta. Fare is $1 for a one-way ticket (or you can get an all-day pass for $3); the streetcar follows a 2.7-mile loop that covers a dozen stops, from Centennial Olympic Park to the Martin Luther King Jr National Historic Site.

Northern Georgia

Elevation seekers should head to North Georgia, which sits at the southern end of the great Appalachian Range. Those mountains, and their surrounding foothills and upcountry, provide superb mountain scenery, as well as some decent wines and frothing rivers. Fall colors emerge late here, peaking in October. A few days are warranted to see sites like the 1200ft-deep Tallulah Gorge, and the mountain scenery and hiking trails at Vogel State Park and Unicoi State Park.

NATURE & ADVENTURE IN NORTHERN GEORGIA

Tallulah GorgeGORGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %706-754-7981; www.gastateparks.org/tallulahgorge; 338 Jane Hurt Yarn Dr, Tallulah Falls; per vehicle $5; h8am-sunset; p)S

The 1200ft-deep Tallulah Gorge carves a dark scar across the wooded hills of North Georgia. Walk over the Indiana Jones–worthy suspension bridge, and be on the lookout (literally) for rim trails to overlooks. Or get a first-come, first-served permit to hike to the gorge floor – only 100 are given out each day.

Vogel State ParkSTATE PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %706-745-2628; www.gastateparks.org/vogel; 405 Vogel State Park Rd, Blairsville; per vehicle $5; h7am-10pm; p)S

Located at the base of the evocatively named Blood Mountain, this is one of Georgia's oldest parks, and constitutes a quilt of wooded mountains surrounding a 22-acre lake. There's a multitude of trails to pick from, catering to beginners and advanced hikers. Many of the on-site facilities were built by the Civilian Conservation Corp; a seasonal museum tells the story of these work teams, which both built the park and rescued the local economy during the Great Depression.

Unicoi State ParkSTATE PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %706-878-2201; www.gastateparks.org/unicoi; 1788 Highway 356, Helen; per vehicle $5; h7am-10pm; pc)S

At this adventure-oriented park, visitors can rent kayaks ($10 per hour), take paddleboard lessons ($25), hike some 12 miles of trails, mountain bike, or take a zipline safari through the local forest canopy ($59).

Dahlonega

In 1828 Dahlonega was the site of the first gold rush in the USA. These days the boom is in tourism, as it's an easy day excursion from Atlanta and is a fantastic mountain destination. Not only is it a hotbed of outdoor activities, but downtown Dahlonega around Courthouse Square is an attractive melange of wine tasting rooms, gourmet emporiums, great food, countrified shops and foothill charm.

1Sights & Activities

Amicalola Falls State ParkSTATE PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %706-265-4703; www.gastateparks.org/amicalolafalls; 280 Amicalola Falls State Park Rd, Dawsonville; per vehicle $5; h7am-10pm; p)S

This state park, 18 miles west of Dahlonega on Hwy 52, features the 729ft Amicalola Falls, the tallest cascading waterfall in the Southeast. The park offers spectacular scenery, a lodge ( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-573-9656; www.amicalolafalls.com; 418 Amicalola Falls State Park Rd, Dawsonville; campsites from $30, r & cottages $140-240; pai), and excellent hiking and mountain biking trails.

Frogtown CellarsWINERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %706-865-0687; www.frogtownwine.com; 700 Ridge Point Dr; tastings $15; hnoon-5pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat, 12:30-5pm Sun)

This beautiful winery has a killer deck where you can sip libations and nibble cheese. It bills itself as the most awarded North American winery not in California, which we can't confirm, but the wine does go down a treat with a mountain sunset.

Dahlonega Courthouse Gold MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %706-864-2257; www.gastateparks.org/dahlonegagoldmuseum; Public Sq; adult/child $7/4.50; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun)

If you've got a thing for coins, currency or financial history, pop into this museum. Dahlonega has gold-mining roots and the town prospered with each strike. In 1838 the federal government opened a mint in the town square, where more than $6 million in gold was coined before the operation was closed at the dawn of the Civil War.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hiker HostelHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %770-312-7342; www.hikerhostel.com; 7693 Hwy 19 N; dm/r $25/70, cabin $90-110; paiW)

On Hwy 19 N, 7 miles or so from town, this hostel is owned by an avid pair of cycling and outdoors enthusiasts, and caters to those looking to explore the Appalachian Trail. The hostel is a converted log cabin; each bunk room has its own bath and it is wonderfully neat and clean.

Two stylish shipping-container cabins are built from reclaimed materials from throughout Georgia.

Cedar House Inn & YurtsB&B$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %706-867-9446; www.georgiamountaininn.com; 6463 Highway 19 N; r $125-145, yurt $145; paW)S

Prayer flags, a permaculture farm, bottle trees and, as you may guess, a fairly progressive, environmentally conscious approach to life define the vibe at the Cedar House, located on Hwy 19 north of town. Staff can most definitely accommodate gluten-free and vegan breakfast requests. Cozy rooms and two colorful yurts (without air-conditioning) are all inviting places to crash out.

Spirits TavernBURGERS$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %706-482-0580; www.spirits-tavern.com; 19 E Main St; burgers $12-15; h11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri, to midnight Sun; W)

This full bar dishes up surprisingly creative burgers made from Angus beef or free range, hormone-free turkey, including crunchy mac 'n' cheese, Greek, Asian and Cajun versions.

Back Porch Oyster BarSEAFOOD$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %706-864-8623; www.backporchoysterbar.net; 19 N Chestatee St; mains $9-31; h11:30am-9pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat, to 8pm Sun; W)

Oysters, ahi and clams are among the bounty flown in fresh daily to be shucked, seared and steamed at this neighborhood fish house. A front porch overlooking the square is perfect for taking it all down.

8Information

Visitors Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %706-864-3711; www.dahlonega.org; 13 S Park St; h9am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat) Has plenty of information on area sites and activities, including hiking, canoeing, kayaking, rafting and mountain biking.

8Getting There & Away

Dahlonega is about 70 miles north of Atlanta; the quickest way here is via Hwy 19. There is no bus service.

Athens

A beery, artsy and laid-back college town roughly 80 miles east of Atlanta, Athens has an extremely popular football team (the University of Georgia Bulldogs), a world-famous music scene, a burgeoning restaurant culture and surprisingly diverse nightlife. The university – UGA – drives the culture of Athens and ensures an ever-replenishing supply of young bar-hoppers and concert-goers, some of whom stick around long after graduation and become 'townies.' The pleasant, walkable downtown offers a plethora of funky choices for eating, drinking and shopping.

1Sights

oGeorgia Museum of ArtMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %706-542-4662; www.georgiamuseum.org; 90 Carlton St; h10am-5pm Tue-Wed, Fri & Sat, to 9pm Thu, 1-5pm Sun)F

A smart, modern gallery where brainy, arty types set up in the wired lobby for personal study while art hounds gawk at modern sculpture in the courtyard garden and the tremendous collection from American realists of the 1930s.

State Botanical Garden of GeorgiaGARDENS

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.botgarden.uga.edu; 2450 S Milledge Ave; h8am-6pm)SF

Truly gorgeous, with winding outdoor paths and a socio-historical edge, Athens' gardens are a gift for a city of this size. Signs provide smart context for its amazing collection of plants, which includes rare and threatened species; and there's nearly 5 miles of top-notch woodland walking trails.

4Sleeping & Eating

oGraduate AthensINN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %706-549-7020; www.graduateathens.com; 295 E Dougherty St; r $100-170, ste $280-390; piWs)

This wonderfully designed boutique hotel, the inaugural address of a college-campus chain, is drowning in sexified retro hipness, from potted plants inside old-school Dewey Decimal card catalog filing cabinets in the lobby to the sweet Crosley turntables and classic video games in the suites.

Local accents, such as chalkboard-art of the chemical formula for sweet tea, fortify local allure. Also on-site is a great coffeehouse, bar and grill and live music venue, all inside an old Confederate iron foundry.

Hotel IndigoBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %706-546-0430; www.indigoathens.com; 500 College Ave; r/ste from $160/265; piWs#)S

Rooms are spacious, loft-like pods of cool at this eco-chic boutique hotel. Part of the Indigo chain, it's a Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design gold-certified sustainable standout. Green elements include regenerative elevators and priority parking for hybrid vehicles; 30% of the building was constructed from recycled content.

PouchPIES$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %706-395-6696; www.pouchpies.com; 151 E Broad St; pies $5.50; h11am-10pm Mon-Wed, to 11pm Thu-Sat; v)

In the South, 'pie' usually means something sweet, buttery and served after dinner. For the South African owners of Pouch, 'pie' means savory pastries from around the world – Aussie pies with beef and gravy, Portuguese pies with piri piri white wine sauce and chorizo, and even a cheeseburger-esque American pie! Makes for a great budget meal.

White TigerBARBECUE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %706-353-6847; www.whitetigergourmet.com; 217 Hiawassee Ave; mains $6.75-10.50; h11am-3pm Mon-Sat, 6-8pm Thu, 10am-2pm Sun; pc)

The 100-year-old structure doesn't invite confidence, but this off-the-beaten path local favorite does killer wood-smoked pulled pork sandwiches, burgers and even barbecue-smoked tofu for the vegetarians. Chef Ken Manring honed his skills in much higher-brow kitchens before settling in Athens.

home.madeSOUTHERN US$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %706-206-9216; www.homemadeathens.com; 1072 Baxter St; mains $13-25; h11am-2pm & 5:30-9:30pm Tue-Sat)

home.made is upping the game when it comes to nouveau Southern cuisine. The menu constantly changes based on ingredient availability, but whatever these folks source is always turned into something creative, delicious, rooted in local flavors and often playfully over the top – say, pan-seared flounder and turmeric rice grits.

Five & TenAMERICAN$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %706-546-7300; www.fiveandten.com; 1073 S Milledge Ave; mains $22-36; h5:30-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat, 10:30am-2:30pm Sun; v)S

Driven by sustainable ingredients, Five & Ten ranks among the South's best restaurants. Its menu is earthy and slightly gamey: sweetbreads, black-eyed pea hummus and Frogmore stew (stewed corn, sausage and potato). Vegetarians may want to try bundles of dandelion greens and farmers cheese. Reservations mandatory.

6Drinking & Entertainment

Trapeze PubCRAFT BEER

( GOOGLE MAP ; %706-543-8997; www.trappezepub.com; 269 N Hull St; h11am-2am Mon-Sat, to midnight Sun; W)

Downtown's best craft-beer bar installed itself well before the suds revolution. You'll find dozens of taps, including local fave Creature Comforts, and another 100 or so at any given time in bottles. Soak it all up with their Belgian-style fries, the best in town.

The Old PalBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %706-850-4340; www.theoldpal.com; 1320 Prince Ave; h4pm-2am Mon-Sat; W)

The Old Pal is Normal Town's thinking man's bar, devoted to seasonal craft cocktails and a thoughtfully curated bourbon list. It's a beautiful, dark space that has been showered with local preservation awards.

Normal BarBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %706-548-6186; www.facebook.com/normal.bar.7; 1365 Prince Ave; h4pm-2am Mon-Fri, 11:30am-2am Sat; W)

This lovable dark storefront bar is very unstudentlike but still very much Athens. The beer goes from PBR cheap to local craft IPA sophisticated. There's a terrific wine list and the crowd is cute, young – but not too young; think grad students or even young professors – and laid-back. A cooler version of the quintessential neighborhood bar.

40 Watt ClubLIVE MUSIC

( GOOGLE MAP ; %706-549-7871; www.40watt.com; 285 W Washington St; admission $5-25)

Athens' most storied joint has lounges, a tiki bar and $2.50 PBRs. The venue has welcomed indie rock to its stage since R.E.M., the B-52s and Widespread Panic owned this town, and today this is still where the big hitters play when they come to town. It has recently embraced comedy as well.

8Information

Athens Welcome Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %706-353-1820; www.athenswelcomecenter.com; 280 E Dougherty St; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun) This visitor center, in a historic antebellum house at the corner of Thomas St, provides maps and information on local tours.

8Getting There & Away

This college town is located about 70 miles east of Atlanta. There's no main highway that leads here, so traffic can be an issue on secondary state and county roads. The local Greyhound station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %706-549-2255; www.greyhound.com; 4020 Atlanta Hwy, Bogart) is actually located about 6 miles west of downtown Athens. Buses leave for Atlanta (7½ hours, twice daily) and Savannah (14 hours, once daily).

Coastal Georgia

Compared to the urban, suburban and exurban sprawl that surrounds Atlanta, or the mountainous upcountry of North Georgia, the state's southern region hews to the Old South Spanish moss and live oak cliché. Swampy Savannah holds court as the state's irresistible Southern belle, but there's more to the region than antebellum architecture and Spanish moss – Georgia's wild and preserved barrier island-riddled coast is an often overlooked stunner.

Savannah

Savannah is a looker, make no mistake. Built around a historic district that is rife with elegant townhouses, antebellum mansions, mammoth live oak trees and green public squares draped in Spanish moss, this is, quite simply, an exceedingly attractive city.

But this town is more than a pretty face. If Savannah is a Southern belle, she's carrying a slug of whiskey and a bottle of hot sauce, and her legs might be proudly unshaven too. This town is graceful, to be sure – the phrase 'moonlight and magnolias' is overused, but man does it apply here – but it's also gritty, and playfully transgressive. That's partly a function of Savannah's tolerance of bad behavior (limited open container laws, woo!), plus the presence of students at the Savannah College of Art & Design (SCAD), one of the finest art schools in the country.

Savannah

1Sights

1Jepson Center for the ArtsB2

2Mercer-Williams HouseB4

3Owens-Thomas HouseC2

4SCAD Museum of ArtA3

5Telfair Academy of Arts & SciencesB2

6Forsyth ParkB5

2Activities, Courses & Tours

7Savannah Bike ToursC2

4Sleeping

8Azalea InnC5

9Kehoe HouseC2

10Mansion on Forsyth ParkC5

11Savannah PensioneC5

12Old Harbour InnD1

13The Kimpton BriceD1

5Eating

14Collins QuarterB2

15Leopold's Ice CreamC2

16Treylor ParkC1

6Drinking & Nightlife

17Abe's on LincolnC2

18Distillery Ale HouseA3

19Chromatic DragonA5

20Club OneA1

3Entertainment

21The JinxB2

1Sights & Activities

oWormsloe Plantation Historic SiteHISTORIC SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %912-353-3023; www.gastateparks.org/Wormsloe; 7601 Skidaway Rd; adult/senior/child 6-17yr/child 1-5yr $10/9/4.50/2; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun; p)S

A short drive from downtown, on the beautiful Isle of Hope, this is one of the most photographed sites in town. As soon as you enter, you feel as if you've been roused from the last snatch of an arboreal dream as you gaze at a corridor of mossy, ancient oaks that runs for 1.5 miles, known as the Avenue of the Oaks.

Forsyth ParkPARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )F

The Central Park of Savannah is a sprawling rectangular green space, anchored by a beautiful fountain that forms a quintessential photo op.

Mercer-Williams HouseHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %912-236-6352; www.mercerhouse.com; 429 Bull St; adult/student $12.50/8; h10:30am-4:10pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun)

Although Jim Williams, the Savannah art dealer portrayed by Kevin Spacey in the film version of Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, died back in 1990, his infamous mansion didn't become a museum until 2004. You're not allowed to visit the upstairs, where Williams' family still lives, but the downstairs is an interior decorator's fantasy.

Owens-Thomas HouseHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %912-790-8800; www.telfair.org/visit/owens-thomas; 124 Abercorn St; adult/senior/child $20/18/15; hnoon-5pm Sun & Mon, 10am-5pm Tue-Sat)

Completed in 1819 by British architect William Jay, this gorgeous villa exemplifies English Regency–style architecture, known for its symmetry. The guided tour is a little obsessed with details on aristocratic life, but it delivers interesting trivia about the spooky 'haint blue' ceiling paint in the slaves quarters (made from crushed indigo, buttermilk and crushed oyster shells) and the number of years by which this mansion preceded the White House in getting running water (nearly 20).

Telfair Academy of Arts & SciencesMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %912-790-8800; www.telfair.org/visit/telfair; 121 Barnard St; adult/child $20/15; hnoon-5pm Sun & Mon, 10am-5pm Tue-Sat)

Considered Savannah's top art museum, the historic Telfair family mansion is filled with 19th-century American art and silver and a smattering of European pieces. The home itself is gorgeous and sunrise-hued – an artifact in its own right that wows visitors to this day.

SCAD Museum of ArtMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.scadmoa.org; 601 Turner Blvd; adult/child under 14yr $10/free; h10am-5pm Tue-Wed, to 8pm Thu, to 5pm Fri & Sat, noon-5pm Sun)

Architecturally striking (but what else would you expect from this school of design?), this brick, steel, concrete and glass longhouse delivers your contemporary art fix. There are groovy, creative sitting areas inside and out, and a number of rotating and visiting exhibitions that showcase some of the most impressive talents within the contemporary art world.

Jepson Center for the ArtsGALLERY

(JCA; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %912-790-8800; www.telfair.org/visit/jepson; 207 W York St; adult/child $20/15; hnoon-5pm Sun & Mon, 10am-5pm Tue-Sat; c)

Designed by the great Moshe Safdie, and looking pretty darn space-age by Savannah's standards, the JCA – rather appropriately, given its architecture – focuses on 20th- and 21st-century art. Be on the lookout for wandering scads of SCAD students (ha) and temporary exhibitions covering topics from race to art in VR video games.

Savannah Bike ToursCYCLING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %912-704-4043; www.savannahbiketours.com; 41 Habersham St; tours $25; hhours vary by season)

This outfit offers two-hour bike tours over easy flat terrain on its fleet of cruisers. Call ahead or check the website for tour times.

4Sleeping

Savannah PensioneGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %912-236-7744; www.savannahpensione.com; 304 E Hall St; s/d without bath from $55/65; pai)

It was run as a hostel for some 15 years, but the owner of this basic neighborhood crash pad got tired of backpackers traipsing up and down the historic steps of the 1884 Italianate mansion. Fair enough. Now a bare-bones and vibeless pension, it still offers the cheapest historic quarter rooms, though its potential is unrealized.

oThe Kimpton BriceHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %912-238-1200; www.bricehotel.com; 601 E Bay St; r from $175; aWs)

Kimpton is known for their design-conscious hotels, so you gotta figure they'd bring their A game to one of the country's leading design cities. The Kimpton Brice does not disappoint in this, or any other, regard. Modern rooms have playful swatches of color, while the hotel's entrance and lobby feels like it could accommodate a cool club.

Thunderbird InnMOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %912-232-2661; www.thethunderbirdinn.com; 611 W Oglethorpe Ave; r $120-150; paW#)

'A tad Palm Springs, a touch Vegas' best describes this vintage-chic 1964 motel that wins its own popularity contest – a 'Hippest hotel in Savannah' proclamation greets guests in the '60s-soundtracked lobby. In a land of stuffy B&Bs, this groovy place is an oasis, made all the better by local Savannah College of Art & Design student art.

Azalea InnINN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %912-236-6080; www.azaleainn.com; 217 E Huntingdon St; r/villa from $200/300; paWs)

A humble stunner on a quiet street, we love this sweet canary-yellow historic inn near Forsyth Park. The 10 rooms aren't huge, but are well done with varnished dark-wood floors, crown moldings, four-poster beds and a small dipping pool out back. Three new villas offer more modern luxury for long-term stays.

Kehoe HouseB&B$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %912-232-1020; www.kehoehouse.com; 123 Habersham St; r from $240; aW)

This romantic, upscale Renaissance Revival B&B dates from 1892, and twins are said to have died in a chimney here, making it one of America's most haunted hotels (if you're skittish, steer clear of rooms 201 and 203). Ghosts aside, it's a beautifully appointed worthwhile splurge on picturesque Columbia Square.

Mansion on Forsyth ParkHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %912-238-5158; www.mansiononforsythpark.com; 700 Drayton St; r weekday/weekend $220/360; paiWs)

A choice location and chic design highlight the luxe accommodations on offer at the 18,000-sq-ft Mansion – the sexy bathrooms alone are practically worth the money. The best part of the hotel-spa is the amazing local and international art that crowds its walls and hallways – over 400 pieces in all.

Old Harbour InnBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %912-234-4100; www.oldeharbourinn.com; 508 East Factors Walk; ste $205-290; W#)

The spiffy suites at this waterfront hotel occupy the golden mean between historic atmosphere and modern sensibilities, from the airy sense of space (a bit of space, actually – from 450 to 650 sq ft) to the subdued color schemes and polished hardwood floors. There's a free wine and cheese reception every evening.

5Eating

oB's Cracklin' BBQBARBECUE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %912-330-6921; www.bscracklinbbq.com; 12409 White Bluff Rd; mains $9-19; h11am-9pm Tue-Sat, to 6pm Sun; p)

This is very good barbecue. Pit master Bryan Furman left his job as a welder to raise his own hogs and source local ingredients for homemade sides. The result is smoky heaven: melting brisket, falling-off-the-bone ribs and perfect Carolina-style pork. The portions are more than generous; prepare to leave as stuffed as one of Bryan's hogs.

B's is located about 8 miles south of downtown.

Leopold's Ice CreamICE CREAM$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %912-234-4442; www.leopoldsicecream.com; 212 E Broughton St; scoops $3-5.50; h11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; W)

This classic American ice-cream parlor feels like the Last Man Standing, having been scooping up its creamy Greek recipes since 1919. Tutti Frutti was invented here, but we dig coffee, pistachio honey almond, and cream and caramel swirl. Hurry up and wait.

Sweet SpiceJAMAICAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %912-335-8146; www.sweetspicesavannah.net; 5515 Waters Ave; mains $6-14; h11am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat)

This easygoing Jamaican spot, about 4.5 miles southeast of downtown, is a welcome break from the almost ubiquitous American and Southern fare you get in this part of the world. A large platter of curry goat or jerk chicken costs just a smidge more than a fast-food meal and it's utterly delicious. It will also keep you filled up for roughly the rest of the year.

Treylor ParkSOUTHERN US$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %888-873-9567, 912-495-5557; www.treylorparksavannah.com; 115 E Bay St; mains $6-15; hnoon-1am Mon-Wed, to 2am Fri, 10am-2am Sat, 10am-1am Sun)

All the hip young things pack into this 'Treylor Park,' which revels in a retro-chic, Airstream aesthetic. The food? Southern classics simply done well: fried chicken on a biscuit with sausage gravy and spicy collard greens, or a grilled apple pie sandwich. Take your pick, and wash it down with an excellent cocktail in the warmly lit courtyard.

Collins QuarterCAFE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %912-777-4147; www.thecollinsquarter.com; 151 Bull St; dinner mains $17-32; h6:30am-5pm Mon, to noon Tue, to 10pm Wed-Sun; W)

If you have ever talked coffee with an Australian, you know they are particularly fussy about their java. This wildly popular newcomer is Australian-owned and turns Australian-roasted Brooklyn coffee into their beloved flat whites and long blacks. Beyond Savannah's best coffee, it serves excellent fusion fare, including a drool-inducing brisket burger. There's booze too!

oLocal11TenMODERN AMERICAN$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %912-790-9000; www.local11ten.com; 1110 Bull St; mains $26-45; h6-10pm; v)

Upscale, sustainable, local and fresh: these elements help create an elegant, well-run restaurant that's easily one of Savannah's best. Start with a deconstructed rabbit ravioli, then move on to the fabulous seared sea scallops in mint beurre blanc or the harissa-marinated bison hanger steak and a salted caramel pot de crème for a happy ending. Wait. Scratch that. The menu already changed.

6Drinking & Entertainment

River St, with its plastic-cup, open-container laws, is the bar-hopping nightlife corridor, but Savannah's nightlife is more than spring break bacchanalia. There are also some smart, exceedingly interesting bars out here.

oChromatic DragonBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %912-289-0350; www.chromaticdragon.com.; 514 Martin Luther King Jr Blvd; h11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)

If the name of this place made you smile, you'll be right at home in this gamers pub, which features video game consoles, board games and drinks named for fantasy references, from Harry Potter butterbeer to fantasy role playing game 'healing potions.' There's a warm, welcoming atmosphere – truly, this is a certain kind of nerd's ultimate neighborhood bar.

Abe's on LincolnBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %912-349-0525; www.abesonlincoln.com; 17 Lincoln St; h4pm-3am Mon-Sat)

Pop back a beer or 10 with SCAD students and locals at this dark, dank, all-wood bar. Attracts an eclectic crowd that stares through their boozy goggles at whatever weird behavior the bartenders are inevitably tolerating that night. Good times.

Distillery Ale HouseBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %912-236-1772; www.distilleryalehouse.com; 416 W Liberty St; h11am-late Mon-Sat, noon-late Sun)

Formerly the Kentucky Distilling Co, which opened in 1904 and closed at Prohibition, this is oddly not Savannah's local throat-burning swill house, but rather its go-to craft beer bar. It's also popular with tourists and families for bar food.

Club OneGAY & LESBIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %912-232-0200; www.clubone-online.com; 1 Jefferson St; h5pm-3am)

Drag shows (resident star Lady Chablis appeared in Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil), ripping dance nights and plenty of flirting kicks off pretty regularly at this gay bar, which is otherwise a laid-back place where a mix of locals and SCAD students play pool and shoot the breeze.

The JinxLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %912-236-2281; www.thejinx912.com; 127 W Congress St; h4pm-3am)

A good slice of odd-duck Savannah nightlife, the Jinx is popular with students, townies, musicians, and basically anyone else who has a thing for dive-y watering holes with live music – from rock to punk to alt-country to hip-hop – and funky stuff decorating the walls.

8Information

Candler Hospital ( GOOGLE MAP ; %912-819-4100; www.sjchs.org; 5353 Reynolds St; h24hr) Located about 4 miles south of downtown, the Candler Hospital provides good 24/7 care and service. There's another campus at 11075 Mercy Blvd.

Savannah Visitors Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %912-944-0455; www.savannahvisit.com; 301 Martin Luther King Jr Blvd; h9am-5:30pm) Excellent resources and services are available in this center, based in a restored 1860s train station. Many privately operated city tours start here. There is also a small interactive tourist info kiosk in the visitor center at Forsyth Park.

8Getting There & Around

Savannah is located off I-95, about 110 miles south of Charleston, SC. The Savannah/Hilton Head International Airport (SAV; GOOGLE MAP ; %912-964-0514; www.savannahairport.com; 400 Airways Ave) is about 5 miles west of downtown, off I-16; service is mainly domestic flights to Eastern seaboard, Southern and Midwestern cities. Greyhound ( GOOGLE MAP ; %912-232-2135; www.greyhound.com; 610 W Oglethorpe Ave) has connections to Atlanta (about five hours), Charleston, SC (about two hours) and Jacksonville, FL (2½ hours). The Amtrak station ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.amtrak.com; 2611 Seaboard Coastline Dr) is just a few miles west of the Historic District; trains run to Charleston, Jacksonville, and from there to points beyond.

Savannah is very foot-friendly. Chatham Area Transit (www.catchacat.org) operates local buses that run on bio-diesel, including a free shuttle (the Dot) that makes its way around the Historic District and stops within a couple of blocks of nearly every major site. Fare is $1.50 per ride.

CAT Bike (www.catbike.bcycle.com; hdaily/weekly membership $5/20, per 30min $2) is a convenient bike hire scheme run by Chatham Area Transit. You have to buy a membership, after which it's free for the first hour. There are stations around town.

Taxis from the airport to the Historic District cost a standard $28.

Brunswick & the Golden Isles

With its large shrimp-boat fleet and downtown historic district shaded by lush live oaks, Brunswick has charms you might miss when sailing by on I-95 or the Golden Isle Pkwy (US Hwy 17). The town dates from 1733, and while it's not as tourism oriented as other parts of the coast, visitors may find this a refreshing change of pace.

Mary Ross Waterfront ParkPARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; Bay St)

During WWII Brunswick shipyards constructed 99 Liberty transport ships for the navy. Today a 23ft scale model at Mary Ross Waterfront Park stands as a memorial to those ships and their builders.

Hostel in the ForestHOSTEL$

(%912-264-9738; www.foresthostel.com; 3901 Hwy 82; per person $30; p#)S

The only budget base in the area is this set of bare-bones octagonal cedar huts and tree houses (sans air or heat) on an ecofriendly, sustainable campus. You must pay a member fee of $10 to stay, and dinner is included. As you might guess, the hostel is tucked in the woods, about 10 miles outside Brunswick. Phone reservations only.

WORTH A TRIP

CUMBERLAND ISLAND NATIONAL SEASHORE

oCumberland Island National SeashoreNATURE RESERVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %912-882-4336; www.nps.gov/cuis; $7)S

An unspoiled paradise, a backpacker's fantasy, a site for day trips or extended stays – it's clear why the Carnegie family used Cumberland as a retreat long ago. Almost half of its 36,415 acres consists of marsh, mudflats and tidal creeks. On the ocean side are 16 miles of wide, sandy beach that you might have all to yourself. The island's interior is characterized by maritime forest.

8Getting There & Around

Brunswick is located off Hwy US17. Greyhound ( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-231-2222; 2990 US Hwy 17 S) buses stop at the Flying J gas station, 10 miles west of town. Destinations include Savannah ($16, two hours, twice daily) and Jacksonville ($15, 70 minutes, twice daily) – you can catch onward buses from either city.

St Simons Island

Famous for its golf courses, resorts and majestic live oaks, St Simons Island is the largest and most developed of the Golden Isles. While there are pretty beaches galore, the natural beauty of St Simons isn't as easy to access compared to other nearby islands given the presence of heavy residential and resort development. For example, the island of Little St Simons is an all-natural jewel, but it's only accessible by only to guests staying at the exclusive Lodge on Little St Simons. On the other hand, if you need to get some golf in, this is the island for you.

Lighthouse MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %912-638-4666; www.saintsimonslighthouse.org; 610 Beachview Dr; adult/child 5-11yr $10/5; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 1:30-5pm Sun)

Built in 1807 and standing 85ft tall, the first lighthouse was destroyed by Confederates when Union troops landed in 1862. The second lighthouse, which you'll be able to tour, was built in 1872. The 104ft tower has a spiral 129-step cast iron staircase and an adjacent keeper's residence. Otherwise it's, y'know, a lighthouse.

4Sleeping & Eating

St Simons Inn By The LighthouseINN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %912-638-1101; www.saintsimonsinn.com; 609 Beachview Dr; r $140-160; paWs)

This cute and comfortable good-value inn is accented with white wooden shutters and a general sense of seaside breeziness. It's well located next to the downtown drag and a short pedal from East Beach. Continental breakfast included.

Lodge on Little St Simons IslandLODGE$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %888-733-5774; www.littlestsimonsisland.com; 1000 Hampton River Club Dr, Little St Simons Island; d from $425; aW)

This isolated historic lodge sits on pristine and private Little St Simons. Stays include accommodations, boat transfers to and from the island, three prepared meals daily, beverages (including soft drinks, beer and wine), all activities (including naturalist-led excursions) and use of all recreation equipment. Rooms have a rustic, cabin vibe, albeit with modern amenities.

Southern Soul BBQBARBECUE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %912-638-7685; www.southernsoulbbq.com; 2020 Demere Rd; mains $7.50-20; h11am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun; c)

Succulent slow oak-smoked pulled pork, burnt-tipped brisket and daily specials like jerk chicken burritos keep this joint packed with satisfied 'cue fanatics. There are a number of wonderful housemade sauces and a great patio from which to take it all in.

oHalyardsSEAFOOD$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %912-638-9100; www.halyardsrestaurant.com; 55 Cinema Lane; mains $18-42; h5-9pm Mon-Wed, to 10pm Thu-Sat; W)S

Chef Dave Snyder's classy sustainable, seasonal seafooder consistently hogs best-of-everything awards on St Simons, and for good reason. Go for the Chef's Highlights, such as mahimahi over boursin grits, haricot verts and orange-vanilla butter – perfection.

Jekyll Island

An exclusive refuge for millionaires in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Jekyll is a 4000-year-old barrier island with 10 miles of beaches. Today it's an unusual clash of wilderness, preserved historic buildings, modern hotels and a massive campground. It's an easily navigable place – you can get around by car, horse or bicycle.

1Sights & Activities

Georgia Sea Turtle CenterWILDLIFE RESERVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %912-635-4444; www.georgiaseaturtlecenter.org; 214 Stable Rd; adult/child $7/5, tours $22-6; h9am-5pm, closed Mon Nov-Mar; c)

An endearing attraction is the Georgia Sea Turtle Center, a conservation center and turtle hospital where patients are on view for the public. Behind the Scenes tours (3pm) and Turtle Walks (June and July) are also available, among other programs.

4-H Tidelands Nature CenterMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; http://caes2.caes.uga.edu/georgia4h/tidelands; 100 S Riverview Dr; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat & Sun; c)S

Run by a staff of peppy University of Georgia science students, the Tidelands is a kid-friendly nature center with some neat display cases on local ecology and resident wildlife, including a baby alligator. Nearby you'll find a lovely network of nature trails that wend past marshlands and through maritime forests.

oKayak Tours & Canoe RentalsBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %912-635-5032; http://caes2.caes.uga.edu/georgia4h/tidelands/tours; 100 S Riverview Dr; s/tandem kayak tour $55/95, canoe rental per hour/day $15/30)

The 4-H Tidelands Nature Center conducts highly recommended three-hour tours of the salt marshes; on any given day, you may paddle past wood storks, great blue herons, pelicans and dolphins. By far, this is the best local means of accessing the understated beauty of the barrier island salt marshes. Canoe rentals are also available.

4Sleeping & Eating

Villas By The SeaVILLA$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %912-635-2521; www.villasbythesearesort.com; 1175 N Beachview Dr; r/condo from $125/235; paWs)

A nice choice on the north coast close to the best beaches. Rooms are spacious and the one-, two- and three-bedroom condos, set in a complex of lodge buildings sprinkled over a garden, aren't fancy but they're plenty comfy.

Jekyll Island Club HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %855-535-9547; www.jekyllclub.com; 371 Riverview Dr; d/ste from $200/300, resort fee $15; paiWs)

A posh and storied hotel and the backbone of the island, featuring a rambling array of rooms spread out over five historic structures. Each building feels plucked from a novel about Jazz Age decadence, although the current vibe is a little more Hilton Head country club.

Driftwood BistroSOUTHERN US$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %912-635-3588; www.driftwoodbistro.com; 1175 Beach View Dr; mains $9.50-16.50; h5-9pm Mon-Sat; p)

Driftwood Bistro serves decent Lowcountry-style seafood in an old-school, family-friendly resort-style setting. Local Georgia shrimp – cooked in sauce as shrimp creole, or just steamed for you to peel and eat – is usually on the menu. Any way it comes, you shouldn't miss these plump, sweet delicacies.

Alabama

History suffuses Alabama, a description that could be true of many states. But there are few places where the perception of said history is so emotionally fraught. The Mississippian Native American culture built great mound cities here, and Mobile is dotted with Franco-Caribbean architecture. But for many, the word Alabama is synonymous with the American Civil Rights movement.

Perhaps such a struggle, and all of the nobility and desperation it entailed, was bound for a state like this, with its Gothic plantations, hardscrabble farmland and fiercely local sense of place. From the smallest hunting town to river-bound cities, Alabama is a place all its own, and its character is hard to forget. Some visitors have a hard time looking beyond the state's past, but the troubling elements of that narrative are tied up in a passion that constantly manifests in Alabama's arts, food and culture.

8Getting There & Away

While there are mid-sized domestic airports in Mobile and Montgomery, the most common air entry to Alabama is via Birmingham-Shuttlesworth International Airport.

Alabama is bordered by Mississippi, Florida, Georgia and Tennessee. The Gulf Coast of Alabama is barely an hour away from some of the Florida Panhandle's best beaches. if you're road-tripping around, Birmingham is about 150 miles from Atlanta, 200 miles from Nashville, and 190 miles from Oxford.

The main highways in the state are I-10, which cuts across the Gulf Coast; I-65, which runs north to south; I-20, which cuts horizontally across the center-top; and I-59, which runs in a diagonal line northeast to Chattanooga.

You can find Greyhound stations in major towns. Amtrak has service to Birmingham, and there is talk of reestablishing an Amtrak line across the Gulf Coast.