Gallatin & Paradise Valleys
Outdoor enthusiasts could explore the expansive beauty around the Gallatin and Paradise Valleys for days. While they now compete with the likes of the Tetons and Beartooth Pass for title of 'most dramatic approach,' cruising through the pastoral river flats flanked by the Gallatin and Abasaroka Ranges will definitely excite your passion for adventure and exploration. It's not called 'paradise' for nothing.
2Activities
Big Sky ResortSNOW SPORTS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; 
%800-548-4486; www.bigskyresort.com; 50 Big Sky Resort Rd; ski lift $129, bike lift $42)
The 4th-largest ski hill in North America is actually four mountains covering 5800 acres of skiable terrain (60% advanced/expert) that get over 400in of powder a year. In short, Big Sky is big skiing. And when the snow melts, you get over 40 miles of lift-served mountain bike and hiking trails making it a worthy summer destination as well.
Chico Hot SpringsHOT SPRINGS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-333-4933; www.chicohotsprings.com; 163 Chico Road, Pray; cabins $120-135, main lodge r $71-140; 
h7am-11pm; 
c)
The unpretentious and historic Chico Hot Springs has garnered a loyal following of locals, Hollywood celebrities and return travelers. The creaking main lodge and sparkling log cabins are as much a draw as the mineral hot spring itself – which might as well be a heated swimming pool (admission for nonguests is $7.50).
Billings
It's hard to believe laid-back little Billings is Montana's largest city. The friendly oil-and-ranching center is not a must-see but makes for a decent overnight pit stop, or a point of departure for Yellowstone National Park via the breathtaking Beartooth Highway.
4Sleeping
The main knot of chain motels is outside of Billings on I-90, exit 446, but there are a few standout independent options downtown – as well as a few dicey ones.
Dude Rancher LodgeMOTEL$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-545-6331; www.duderancherlodge.com; 415 N 29th St; d from $96; 
a
i
W
#)
This historic motor lodge looks a little out of place in the downtown area, but has been well maintained, with about half the rooms renovated to good effect. Western touches like tongue-and-groove walls and cattle-brand carpet give it a welcoming rustic feel.
Northern HotelHOTEL$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-867-6767; www.northernhotel.com; 19 N Broadway; r/ste $161/206; aW)
The historic Northern was recently renovated, combining its previous elegance with fresh and modern facilities that are a solid step above generic business hotel. Breakfast or lunch is in the attached 1950s diner, and Ten restaurant offers one of best dinners in town.
5Eating & Drinking
McCormick CafeBREAKFAST$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-255-9555; www.mccormickcafe.com; 2419 Montana Ave; meals $8-10; h7am-3pm Mon-Fri, 8am-3pm Sat, 8am-2pm Sun; W)
For espresso, granola breakfasts, French-style crepes, good sandwiches and a lively atmosphere, stop by this downtown favorite that started life as an internet cafe (and even still has a few Windows-XP computers – use at your own risk.)
oWalkers GrillMODERN AMERICAN$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-245-9291; www.walkersgrill.com; 2700 1st Ave N; tapas $6-12, mains $15-30; h5-10pm)
Upscale Walkers offers good grill items and fine tapas at the bar (open from 4pm) accompanied by cocktails crafted by expert mixologists. It's an elegant, large-windowed space that would be right at home in Manhattan, though maybe without the barbed-wire light fixtures – or with. You owe it to yourself to try the Korean pork fork fries.
ÜberbrewMICROBREWERY
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-534-6960; www.facebook.com/uberbrew; 2305 Montana Ave; mains $9-11; h11am-9pm, beer til 8pm)
The most polished of Billings' half-dozen downtown brewpubs also happens to create award-winning beers that are a noticeable step above the rest. Their food isn't half bad either: wash down a beer-marinated bockwurst with a pint of the White Noise Hefeweizen, which outsells the other drafts three to one.
WORTH A TRIP
CUSTER'S LAST STAND
The Crow (Apsalooke) Indian Reservation is home to the Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument (
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-638-3224; www.nps.gov/libi; 756 Battlefield Tour Road, Hwy 212 off I-90; per car $20; h8am-8pm). One of the USA's best-known Native American battlefields, this is where General George Custer made his famous 'last stand.' Custer, and 272 soldiers, messed one too many times with Native Americans (including Crazy Horse of the Lakota Sioux), who overwhelmed the force in a frequently painted massacre.
A visitor center tells the tale. In summer, rangers give highly entertaining dramatic lectures about every two hours (free). The entrance is a mile east of I-90 on Hwy 212, 62 miles from Billings.
8Getting There & Away
Downtown Billings is just off I-90 occupying a wide valley of the Yellowstone river. The airport (BIL;
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-247-8609; www.flybillings.com; N 27th Street) serves major hubs (Salt Lake City, Minneapolis, Denver, Seattle, Portland, Phoenix, Los Angeles, Las Vegas and other Montana destinations) while Jefferson Lines (Jefferson Lines;
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-245-5116; www.jeffersonlines.com; 2502 1st Ave N; h9am-8pm & 11pm-6am; W) has service to Bozeman ($39, three hours) and Missoula ($70, seven hours) twice daily, and connects to the larger Greyhound bus system.
Helena
It's pretty easy to overlook diminutive Helena as you zip by on the interstate, but you'd be doing yourself a grave disservice. Penetrate through the drab, utilitarian commerce sprawl toward Last Chance Gulch and old Helena where imposing brick and stone buildings – all arches and angles – portray a resolute commitment to permanence.
2Activities
oThe Trail RiderHIKING, MOUNTAIN BIKING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-449-2107; www.bikehelena.com/trail-rider; cnr Broadway & Last Chance Gulch; hWed-Sun late May-Sep)
F
During the summer months a dedicated city bus pulling a bike trailer runs mountain bikers and hikers to one of three trailheads for epic single-track journeys back to town. Destinations include the Mt Helena Ridge Trail, the Mt Ascension trails, and the Continental Divide Trail at MacDonald pass.
4Sleeping & Eating
The SandersB&B$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-442-3309; www.sandersbb.com; 328 N Ewing St; r $145-165; aW)
Located in the old mansion district, this historic B&B once belonged to Wilbur Sanders, a frontier lawyer and Montana's first senator. It now has seven elegant guest rooms, a wonderful old parlor and a breezy front porch. Each bedroom is unique and thoughtfully decorated, and it's run by a relative of the Ringling Brothers Circus family, with appropriate memorabilia.
Murry'sCAFE$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-431-2886; www.murryscafe.com; 438 N Last Chance Gulch; mains $6-11; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat & Sun; W
v)
From spanakopita to souffle, this little cafe on the south end of downtown offers something a little different from the regular breakfast fare. Things really go off the hook during their Saturday and Sunday brunch when the name of the game is waffles – regular, stuffed, topped or drenched.
oGeneral MercantileCOFFEE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-442-6078; www.generalmerc.com; 413 N Last Chance Gulch; h8am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, 11am-4pm Sun; W)
You'll have to weave through all sorts of Montana eclectica for sale – hummingbird feeders, postcards and homemade jam – to get what is widely regarded as the best coffee in the universe. Take your espresso to a private nook where you can contemplate what you'd look like with a mermaid fin and an octopus mustache – both also available.
8Information
Helena Visitor Center (%406-442-4120; www.helenachamber.com; 225 Cruse Ave; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri)
8Getting There & Away
The airport (HNL;
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-442-2821; www.helenaairport.com; 2850 Mercer Loop) two miles north of downtown Helena connects to regional hubs including Salt Lake City, Seattle, Denver and Minneapolis. The Salt Lake Express (
GOOGLE MAP
; www.saltlakeexpress.com; 1415 N Montana Ave; h3am-8pm) bus heads south to tie in with the Greyhound system at Butte.
Missoula
Missoulians love to get outside, and summer means an almost endless stream of farmers markets, concerts in the park, outdoor cinema and similar celebrations of community life. Patio seating is the rule not the exception, and an afternoon outing is likely to involve some human-powered activity on the miles of urban and foothills trails. The wandering Clark Fork River is popular with stand-up paddleboarders where it cuts through town, and is a fly-fishing magnet downstream. Stand on its bank for five minutes and you’ll understand why the classic novella A River Runs Through It was set here.
The University of Montana ensures a continuous lifeblood of young energy that keeps the town vibrant and the music rocking. However, Missoula is also growing fast, which means sprawling development on the outskirts, and increasing traffic during rush hour. Stay downtown.
1Sights
oGarnet Ghost TownGHOST TOWN
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-329-3914; www.garnetghosttown.org; Bear Gulch Rd; adult/child $3/free; h9:30am-4:30pm Jun-Sep; #)
Over a dozens buildings preserved in a state of 'arrested decay' transport you back to the gold rush days, when cities were built overnight and vanished almost as quickly. Visit the site any time roads are clear, but select structures are opened for exploration during visiting hours.
Located 40 miles east of Missoula on dirt forest roads.
Smokejumper Visitor CenterMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-329-4934; www.fs.fed.us/fire/people/smokejumpers/missoula; 5765 West Broadway; h8:30am-5pm Jun-Aug)F
The visitor center on this active base for the heroic men and women who parachute into forests to combat raging wildfires has thought-provoking displays about an increasingly hazardous job. The real treat is touring the facility where the crew lives, trains and sews their own parachutes.
GLACIAL LAKE MISSOULA FLOODS
About 20,000 years ago, Missoula – and much of Montana’s Rocky Mountain West – was submerged under a giant lake caused by a massive ice dam on the Clark Fork River. The lifeless, silty water spanned some 3000 sq miles from the Bitterroot Mountains east toward Deer Lodge, and north to Flathead Lake. It reached depths of 2000ft before the dam suddenly broke, draining the lake in a few short days.
The catastrophic flood of water that rushed toward the Columbia River and present-day Portland, OR, had a volume 10 times greater than all the rivers on the earth combined. It created a wave up to a 1000ft-high moving as fast as 80mph scoured the land in its path. Scientists believe this happened at least 40 times during the last ice age, creating the fantastic erosion landscapes found throughout eastern Washington.
You can still see the horizontal lines of the lake shores on the hills above Missoula.
2Activities
A Carousel for MissoulaPLAYGROUND
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-549-8382; www.carouselformissoula.com; 101 Carousel Drive, Caras Park; adult/child $2.25/0.75; h11am-5:30pm Sep-May, to 7pm Jun-Aug; c)
Hand-carved and individually painted by local artists, every horse that gallops around the classic carousel at Caras Park has a story to tell. But the bigger story is how a community rallied around one man's dream to restore a bit of whimsy to downtown.
Mount SentinelHIKING
( GOOGLE MAP ; Campus Dr)
A steep switchback trail from behind the University of Montana football stadium leads up to a concrete whitewashed 'M' (visible for miles around) on 5158ft Mt Sentinel. Tackle it on a warm summer's evening for glistening views of this much-loved city and its spectacular environs.
The trailhead is at Phyllis Washington Park on the east edge of campus.
4Sleeping & Eating
oShady Spruce HostelHOSTEL$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-285-1197; www.shadysprucehostel.com; 204 E Spruce St; dm $35-40, s/ste $55/85; aW)
We're superexcited to see the resurgence of the hostel in the US, and this clean, bright and spacious new addition to the family nails it in all the right places. Downtown is literally a block away from the converted house, but they have bikes for the walking-averse.
Goldsmith's Bed & BreakfastB&B$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-728-1585; www.missoulabedandbreakfast.com; 809 E Front St; r $144-204; aW#)
Before being moved here in two massive pieces, this inviting riverside B&B was a frat house, and before that, home to the University of Montana president. The modern-Victorian rooms are all comfortable, but we're partial to the Greenough Suite with its writing table and private river-view deck.
The CatalystCAFE$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-542-1337; www.thecatalystcafe.com; 111 N Higgins Ave; mains $8-13; h8am-3pm)
A local's favorite breakfast diner serves large portions of chilaquiles that you can drench in their house-made chipotle-coffee hot sauce. Don't miss the buckwheat waffles. There is usually a wait to get into this small space, but service is efficient and everyone leaves happy.
Market on FrontDELI
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-541-0246; www.marketonfront.co; 201 E Front St; h8am-8pm, to 7pm Sun)
S
Order a fresh-made sandwich or overflowing breakfast bowl, or take advantage of the gourmet grab-and-go items in the fridge. Shelves of healthy snacks, local teas, organic chocolate and local beer by the six-pack will take your picnic plans to the next level. Or dine in – with all those windows it feels like you're outside anyway.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Missoula has a surprisingly high-profile music scene for a smaller town.
Top Hat LoungeLOUNGE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.tophatlounge.com; 134 W Front St; h11:30am-10pm Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat)
Where Missoula goes to get its groove on. This dark venue features live music most weekends in a space large enough to cut a rug, but small enough to feel like the band is playing just for you.
If the headliner is too big for the Hat, you can catch them at the historic Wilma theater, another Logjam music venue (www.logjampresents.com).
The Old PostBAR
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-721-7399; www.facebook.com/oldpostpub; 103 W Spruce St; mains $8-12; h11am-1am Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun)
Great beer on tap, friendly servers, decent pub food, and a sombrero-wearing moose – what's not to love about this American Legion Forgotten Warriors Post open to all. It's a comfortable, unpretentious western bar that has a lived-in feel with well-worn booths and a cozy little patio out back.
8Information
Visitor Center (%406-532-3250; destinationmissoula.org; 101 E Main St; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) Destination Missoula has a useful website as well as a walk-in space downtown.
8Getting There & Away
Though small, Missoula's airport (MSO;
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-728-4381; www.flymissoula.com; 5225 Hwy 10 W) has regular and usually affordable service to most major hubs including Salt Lake City, Denver, Phoenix, LA, Seattle and Minneapolis, while regular Greyhound (
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-549-2339; www.greyhound.com; 1660 W Broadway; h7:15am-noon & 6-11pm) service connects you to most regional destinations.
Flathead Lake
The largest natural freshwater lake west of the Mississippi, sitting not an hour's drive from Glacier National Park, completes western Montana's embarrassment of natural splendor. The small postcard community of Bigfork does its own artsy things on the north end of the lake while the southern end is anchored by the anywhere-USA town of Polson.
You can drive down either side of the lake, each with its own suite of campgrounds and lodges, beaches and hiking trails. Choosing is largely a matter of whether you prefer to watch the sun rise or set over the placid waters.
If you'd rather get away from the crowds, Swan Lake just to the east is a bit more primitive, while the Jewel Basin hiking area at its north draws backpackers from around the country.
Miracle of America MuseumMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-883-6804; www.miracleofamericamuseum.org; 36094 Memory Lane, Polson; adult/child $6/3; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, reduced hours Sep-May)
When Gil Mangels was a soldier on foreign soil, he became acutely aware of how America's freedom allowed for so much innovation and creativity – and he's been trying to collect every last bit of it ever since. At turns baffling and fascinating, these 5 acres are cluttered with the leftovers of American history: old motorcycles, bicycles, snow machines, steam tractors, antique quilts, coins, cast-iron skillets and countless other weird artifacts in a jumbled assortment of displays and piles.
Kwataqnuk ResortHOTEL$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-883-3636; www.kwataqnuk.com; 49708 Hwy 93, Polson; r from $170; aW
s#)
The lakeside Kwataqnuk Resort, run by the Salish and Kootenai tribes, has a boat dock, lakeside patio with lounge chairs, indoor pool and a mellow casino-lounge. The spacious rooms were all updated in 2016, but that unfortunately didn't remove the lingering smoke smell that permeates from the casino downstairs.
oEcho Lake CafeCAFE$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-837-4252; www.echolakecafe.com; 1195 Hwy 83, Bigfork; mains $9-12; h6:30am-2:30pm; W)
Go out of your way to stop by this valley favorite that serves an extensive menu of affordable breakfast and lunch creations. Try the Echo Lake crepes for a hearty take on the all-too-ubiquitous Benedict.
The Swan Rangers (www.swanrange.org) meet Saturday morning before heading off to clear trail. Join them for the insider scoop on area hiking.
8Information
Swan Lake Ranger District (
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-837-7500; www.fs.usda.gov/flathead; 200 Ranger Station Rd, Bigfork; h8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri) manages the forest surrounding Flathead Lake and Swan Lake to the east, including the epically scenic Jewel Basin hiking area.
Whitefish
Tiny Whitefish feels on the verge of tipping from an easy-going outdoorsy mountain town to a fur-lined playground for the glitterati. It's not quite there yet, thankfully, but there's something suspiciously refined about this charismatic and caffeinated New West town. It is home to an attractive stash of restaurants, a historic railway station and an underrated ski resort, as well as excellent biking and hiking on a rapidly growing network of trails. Whitefish is well worth a visit – just get here while it's still affordable.
2Activities
Whitefish Legacy PartnersHIKING, MOUNTAIN BIKING
Whitefish is surrounded by a growing network of trails ideal for hiking and mountain biking. The driving force behind the development, Whitefish Legacy Partners rallies support for the system with things like guided walks focusing on wildflowers, bears and noxious weeds.
Whitefish Mountain ResortSKIING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-862-2900; www.skiwhitefish.com; Big Mountain Rd; ski/bike lift $76/38)
Whitefish Mountain Resort at Big Mountain is a laid-back old-school ski hill with 3000 acres of varied terrain that sees 300in of snow a year. The views are unsurpassed (when it's clear).
4Sleeping
oWhitefish Bike RetreatHOSTEL$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-260-0274; www.whitefishbikeretreat.com; 855 Beaver Lake Rd; dm/r $45/95; aW)
Celebrating all things bicycle, this forested compound is a must-stay for two-wheel enthusiasts. The spacious polished-wood house with bunks, private rooms and a communal living area is a great place to hang when you're not hot-lapping the property trails or exploring the excellent Whitefish Trail that runs nearby.
The Lodge at Whitefish LakeRESORT$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-863-4000; www.lodgeatwhitefishlake.com; 1380 Wisconsin Ave; r from $300; aWs)
Consistently ranked among the top luxury hotels in Montana, the Lodge exudes refinement and sophistication almost to a fault. It offers a range of rooms, from standards to fully stocked condos, on the sprawling complex. The lakefront restaurant and poolside tiki bar are both great places to catch the sunset.
5Eating & Drinking
Whitefish keeps up a lively evening scene, with a handful of bars and breweries, though the latter usually shut early due to Montana's byzantine liquor-licensing laws.
oLoula'sCAFE$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-862-5614; www.whitefishrestaurant.com; 300 Second St E, downstairs; mains 9-11; h7am-2pm Mon-Sun & 5-9:30pm Thu-Sun; W)
Downstairs in the century-old Masonic temple building, this bustling cafe has local art on the wall and culinary artists in the kitchen. The highly recommended lemon-crème-filled French toast dripping with raspberry sauce is a sinfully delicious breakfast, especially paired with the truffle eggs Benedict.
Buffalo CaféCAFE$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-862-2833; www.buffalocafewhitefish.com; 514 3rd St E; mains $12-20; h7am-2pm & 5-9pm Mon-Sat, from 8am Sun)
Hopping with neighborly locals, the Buffalo is what you get when a standard chain diner hires someone who actually knows how to cook. For breakfast try the original Buffalo Pie: a mountain of poached eggs and various add-ins (cheese, veggies, bacon) piled atop a wedge of hash browns. You won't leave hungry.
oSpotted Bear SpiritsDISTILLERY
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-730-2436; www.spottedbearspirits.com; 503 Railway St, Suite A; hnoon-8pm; W)
Award-winning spirits (vodka, gin, and agave) are paired with secret blends of herbs and spices to create unique, award-winning cocktails you won't find anywhere else. Grab a drink and head to the sofa upstairs for a relaxing break from your day.
Montana Coffee TradersCOFFEE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-862-7667; www.coffeetraders.com; 110 Central Ave; h7am-6pm Mon-Sat, 8am-4pm Sun; W)
Whitefish’s home-grown microroaster runs this always-busy cafe and gift shop in the old Skyles building in the center of town. The organic, fair-trade beans are roasted in an old farmhouse on Hwy 93 that you can tour (10am Friday by reservation).
8Information
Whitefish Visitor Center (www.whitefishvisit.com; 307 Spokane Ave; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)
8Getting There & Away
Glacier Park International Airport, 11 miles away, has daily service to Denver, Salt Lake and Seattle, but by far the best way to get here is via Amtrak (
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-862-2268; 500 Depot St; h6am-1:30pm, 4:30pm-midnight) on the Empire Builder line, which also connects to Glacier National Park via West Glacier ($7.50, 30 minutes) and East Glacier ($16, two hours).
Glacier National Park
Few places on earth are as magnificent and pristine as Glacier ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nps.gov/glac). Protected in 1910 during the first flowering of the American conservationist movement, Glacier ranks with Yellowstone, Yosemite and the Grand Canyon among the United States' most astounding natural wonders.
The glacially carved remnants of an ancient thrust fault have left us a brilliant landscape of towering snowcapped pinnacles laced with plunging waterfalls and glassy turquoise lakes. The mountains are surrounded by dense forests, which host a virtually intact pre-Columbian ecosystem. Grizzly bears still roam in abundance and smart park management has kept the place accessible and authentically wild.
Glacier is renowned for its historic 'parkitecture' lodges, the spectacular Going-to-the-Sun Rd and 740 miles of hiking trails. These all put visitors within easy reach of some 1489 sq miles of the wild and astonishing landscapes found at the crown of the continent.
1Sights & Activities
Visitor centers and ranger stations in Glacier National Park sell field guides and hand out hiking maps. Those at Apgar and St Mary are open daily May to October, and Logan Pass Visitor Center is open when the Going-to-the-Sun Rd is open. Many Glacier, Two Medicine and Polebridge Ranger Stations close at the end of September.
Entry to the park (hiker/vehicle $15/30) is valid for seven days.
You do not need a permit to day-hike the park's trails, but overnight backpackers do (May to October only). Half of the permits are available on a first-come-first-serve basis from the Apgar Backcountry Office (
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-888-7800; www.nps.gov/glac/planyourvisit/backcountry-reservations.htm; Apgar Village; h7am-5pm May–late Oct), St Mary Visitor Center (
GOOGLE MAP
; east end of Going-to-the-Sun Road; h8am-6pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 8am-5pm early Jun & Sep) and the park's ranger stations. The other half can be reserved in advance online.
Logan Pass Visitor CenterVISITOR CENTER
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-888-7800; Going-to-the-Sun Rd; h9am-7pm Jun-Aug, 9:30am-4pm Sep)
Certainly in the most magnificent setting of all the park's visitor centers, the building has park information, interactive exhibits, and a good gift shop. The Hidden Lakes Overlook and Highline trails begin from here.
Check times for ranger talks and guided hikes in the area.
Bird Woman FallsWATERFALL
( GOOGLE MAP ; Going-to-the-Sun Rd)
Standing at the artificially created Weeping Wall, look across the valley to this distant natural watery spectacle; the spectacular Bird Woman Falls drops 500ft from one of Glacier's many hanging valleys.
Sunrift GorgeCANYON
( GOOGLE MAP ; Going-to-the-Sun Rd)
Just off the Going-to-the-Sun Rd and adjacent to a shuttle stop lies this narrow canyon carved over millennia by the gushing glacial meltwaters of Baring Creek. Look out for picturesque Baring Bridge, a classic example of rustic Going-to-the-Sun Rd architecture, and follow a short, tree-covered trail down to misty Baring Falls.
Jackson Glacier OverlookVIEWPOINT
( GOOGLE MAP )
This popular pull-over, located a short walk from the Gunsight Pass trailhead, offers telescopic views of the park’s fifth-largest glacier, which sits close to its eponymous 10,052ft peak – one of the park's highest.
Going-to-the-Sun RoadSCENIC DRIVE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.nps.gov/glac/planyourvisit/goingtothesunroad.htm; hmid-Jun–late Sep)
A strong contender for the most spectacular road in America, the 50-mile Going-to-the-Sun Rd was built for the express purpose of giving park visitors a way to explore its interior without having to hike. The marvel of engineering is a national historic landmark that crosses Logan Pass (6,646ft) and is flanked by hiking trails, waterfalls and endless views.
oHighline TrailHIKING
( GOOGLE MAP ; Logan Pass)
A Glacier classic, the Highline Trail contours across the face of the famous Garden Wall to Granite Park Chalet – one of two historic lodges only accessible by trail. The summer slopes are covered with alpine plants and wildflowers while the views are nothing short of stupendous. With only 800ft elevation gain over 7.6 miles, the treats come with minimal sweat.
From Granite Park you have four options: you can retrace your steps back to Logan Pass; continue along the continental divide to Goat Haunt (22 miles); head for Swiftcurrent Pass and the Many Glacier Valley (7 miles); or descend to the Loop (4 miles), where you can pick up a shuttle bus to all points on the Going-to-the-Sun Rd.
Avalanche Lake TrailHIKING
( GOOGLE MAP ; north of Lake McDonald)
This low-commitment introduction to Glacier hiking pays big dividends in the form of a pristine alpine lake, waterfalls and cascades. The 2.3-mile hike is relatively gentle and easily accessed by the shuttle – and therefore invariably mobbed in peak season with everyone from flip-flop-wearing families to stick-wielding seniors making boldly for the tree line.
Glacier Park Boat CoBOATING
(%406-257-2426; www.glacierparkboats.com)
Six historic boats – some dating back to the 1920s – ply five of Glacier’s attractive mountain lakes, and some of them combine the float with a short guided hike led by interpretive, often witty, guides. For those more adventurous types, they also rent rowboats, kayaks and paddleboards ($18.30 per hour) at Lake Mary, Many Glacier, and Two Medicine.
FREE PARK SHUTTLE
See more with less stress by ditching the car and taking the park's free hop-on-hop-off shuttle service (www.nps.gov/glac/planyourvisit/shuttles.htm; Apgar Visitor Center to St. Mary Visitor Center; h9am-7pm July-Aug) that hits all major points along Going-to-the-Sun Rd between Apgar and St. Mary Visitor Centers. Buses run every 15 to 30 minutes depending on traffic, with the last trips down from Logan Pass leaving at 7pm.
Not only does taking the shuttle reduce emissions, but it means you can actually see the scenery instead of worrying about other drivers, and actually go hiking instead of trying to find parking at the trailheads.
4Sleeping
There are 13 NPS campgrounds (%518-885-3639; www.recreation.gov; tent & RV sites $10-23) and seven historic lodges in Glacier National Park, which operate between mid-May and the end of September. Lodges invariably require reservations.
Only Fish Creek, St Mary and a few sites at Many Glacier campgrounds can be booked in advance (up to five months). First-come sites fill by mid-morning, particularly in July and August.
About half the two to seven sites at each of the 65 backcountry campgrounds can be reserved, the rest are allotted on a first-come basis the day before you start hiking.
oIzaak Walton InnHISTORIC HOTEL$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-888-5700; www.izaakwaltoninn.com; 290 Izaak Walton Inn Rd, Essex; r $109-179, cabins & cabooses $199-249; W)
Perched on a hill within snowball-throwing distance of Glacier National Park’s southern boundary, this historic mock-Tudor inn was originally built in 1939 to accommodate local railway personnel. It remains a daily flag-stop (request stop) on Amtrak’s Empire Builder route – a romantic way to arrive. Caboose cottages with kitchenettes are available, along with a historic GN441 locomotive refurbished as a luxury four-person suite ($329).
Many Glacier HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %303-265-7010; www.glaciernationalparklodges.com; 1 Many Glacier Rd; r $207-322, ste $476; hmid-Jun–mid-Sep; W)
Enjoying the most wondrous setting in the park, this massive, Swiss chalet-inspired lodge commands the northeastern shore of Swiftcurrent Lake. It was built by the Great Northern Railway in 1915, and although the comfortable, if rustic, rooms have been updated over the last 15 years, many still suffer from thin walls and antiquated plumbing.
5Eating
In summer in Glacier National Park, there are grocery stores with limited camping supplies in Apgar, Lake McDonald Lodge, Rising Sun and at the Swiftcurrent Motor Inn. Most lodges have on-site restaurants. Dining options in West Glacier and St Mary offer mainly hearty hiking fare.
If cooking at a campground or picnic area, be sure to take appropriate bear safety precautions and do not leave food unattended.
oSerrano’s Mexican RestaurantMEXICAN$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-226-9392; www.serranosmexican.com; 29 Dawson Ave, East Glacier Park; mains US$13-18; h5-9pm May-Sep; W)
East Glacier Park's most buzzed-about restaurant serves a mean chile relleno. Renowned for its excellent iced margaritas, Serrano's also has economical burritos, enchiladas and quesadillas in the vintage Dawson house log cabin, originally built in 1909. Expect a wait.
oBelton Chalet Grill & TaproomINTERNATIONAL$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-888-5000; www.beltonchalet.com; 12575 US 2, West Yellowstone; mains $24-35; h5-9pm, tap room from 3pm)S
A fine option for a fine evening, West Glacier’s historic chalet knows how to wine and dine. The sit-down restaurant sports tablecloths, wine glasses and a small menu with items like Montana bison meatloaf wrapped in hickory-smoked bacon.
8Information
Glacier National Park Headquarters (
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-888-7800; www.nps.gov/glac; West Glacier; h8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri)
8Getting There & Around
Glacier Park International Airport (FCA;
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-257-5994; www.iflyglacier.com; 4170 Highway 2 East, Kalispell) in Kalispell has year-round service to Salt Lake, Minneapolis, Denver, Seattle and Las Vegas, and seasonal service to Atlanta, Oakland, LA, Chicago and Portland.
The Glacier Park Express (
GOOGLE MAP
; %406-253-9192; www.bigmtncommercial.org; Whitefish Library; adult/child round-trip US$10/5; hJul-early Sep) shuttle connects Whitefish to West Glacier.
Amtrak's Empire Builder stops daily (year round) at West Glacier (
GOOGLE MAP
; www.amtrak.com) and East Glacier Park (
GOOGLE MAP
; www.amtrak.com; hsummer only) (April to October). Xanterra provides a shuttle ($15, 10 to 20 minutes) from West Glacier to their lodges on the west end, and Glacier Park, Inc. shuttles (from $15, one hour) connect East Glacier Park to St Mary.
Glacier National Park runs a free hop-on-hop-off shuttle bus from Apgar to St Mary over Going-to-the-Sun Rd during summer months, that stops at all major trailheads. Xanterra concession operates the classic guided Red Bus Tours (%303-265-7010; www.glaciernationalparklodges.com/red-bus-tours; adult $34-100, child $17-50).
If driving a personal vehicle, be prepared for narrow winding roads, traffic jams, and limited parking at most stops along Going-to-the-Sun Rd.