Arizona is made for road trips. Yes, the state has its showstoppers – Monument Valley, the Grand Canyon, Cathedral Rock – but you'll remember the long, romantic miles under endless skies for as long as you do the icons in between. Each drive reveals a little more of the state's soul: for a dose of mom-and-pop friendliness, follow Route 66 into Flagstaff; to understand the sheer will of Arizona's mining barons, take a twisting drive through rugged Jerome; and American Indian history becomes contemporary as you drive past mesa-top Hopi villages dating back 1000 years.
History
American Indian tribes and their ancestors inhabited Arizona for millennia before Francisco Vásquez de Coronado, leading an expedition from Mexico City in 1540, became the first European to clap eyes on the Grand Canyon and Colorado River. Settlers and missionaries followed in his wake, and by the mid-19th century the US acquired Arizona from Mexico by conquest and purchase. The Indian Wars, in which the US Army battled American Indians to protect settlers and claim land for the government, officially ended in 1886 with the surrender of Apache warrior Geronimo.
Railroad and mining expansion followed and people started arriving in ever larger numbers. After President Theodore Roosevelt visited Arizona in 1903 he supported the damming of its rivers to provide year-round water for irrigation and drinking, thus paving the way to statehood: in 1912 Arizona became the last of the 48 contiguous US states to be admitted to the Union.
The state shares a 250-mile border with Mexico. Although it was traditionally a gateway for illegal immigration, far stricter controls have seen the number of people entering through the state plummet since 2005. However, after the mysterious murder of a popular rancher near the border in 2010, the legislature passed a controversial law requiring police officers to ask for identification from anyone they suspect of being in the country illegally. While the constitutionality of the request for immigration papers was upheld, key provisions of the law, known as SB 1070, were struck down by the US Supreme Court.
ARIZONA FACTS
Nickname Grand Canyon State
Population 6.9 million
Area 113,637 sq miles
Capital city Phoenix (population 1.563,025)
Other cities Tucson (population 531,641), Flagstaff (70,320), Sedona (10,388)
Sales tax 5.6%
Birthplace of Cesar Chavez (1927–93), singer Linda Ronstadt (b 1946)
Home of The OK Corral, mining towns turned art colonies
Politics Majority vote Republican
Famous for Grand Canyon, saguaro cacti
Best souvenir Pink cactus-shaped neon lamp from roadside stall
Driving distances Phoenix to Grand Canyon Village 235 miles, Tucson to Sedona 230 miles
8Information
Although Arizona is on Mountain Standard Time, it’s the only western state that does not observe daylight saving time from spring to early fall – except for on the Navajo Reservation. Generally speaking, lodging rates in southern Arizona (including Phoenix, Tucson and Yuma) are much higher in winter and spring, considered to be the ‘high season’, so great deals can befound in the hotter areas in summer.
Arizona Office of Tourism (
%602-364-3700; www.arizonaguide.com) Free state information.
Arizona State Parks (%877-697-2757, 602-542-4174; www.azstateparks.com) Sixteen of the state's parks have campgrounds, open to online reservations.
Public Lands Interpretative Association (www.publiclands.org) Information about USFS, NPS, Bureau of Land Management (BLM) and state lands and parks.
Phoenix
Phoenix is Arizona's indubitable cultural and economic powerhouse, a thriving desert metropolis boasting some of the best Southwestern and Mexican food you'll find anywhere. And with more than 300 days of sunshine a year, exploring the 'Valley of the Sun' is an agreeable proposition (except in the sapping heat from June to August).
Culturally, it offers an opera, a symphony, several theaters and three of the state's finest museums – the Heard, Phoenix Art and Musical Instrument Museums – while the Desert Botanical Garden is a stunning introduction to the region's flora and fauna. For sports fans, there are professional baseball, football, basketball and ice-hockey teams, and more than 200 golf courses.
Phoenix
2Activities, Courses & Tours
6Drinking & Nightlife
30OHSO Brewery & DistilleryD2
1Sights
Greater Phoenix consists of several distinct cities. Phoenix, the largest, combines a business-like demeanor with top-notch museums, a burgeoning cultural scene and great sports facilities. Southeast of here, lively, student-flavored Tempe (tem-pee), hugs 2-mile-long Tempe Town Lake, while suburban Mesa, further east, holds a couple of interesting museums. Two ritzy enclaves lie northeast of Phoenix – Scottsdale, known for its cutesy old town, galleries and lavish resorts, and the largely residential Paradise Valley.
1Phoenix
oMusical Instrument MuseumMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %480-478-6000; www.themim.org; 4725 E Mayo Blvd; adult/teen/child 4-12yr $20/15/10; 
h9am-5pm; 
p)
From Uganda thumb pianos to Hawaiian ukuleles to Indonesian boat lutes, the ears have it at this lively museum that celebrates the world's musical instruments. More than 200 countries and territories are represented within five regional galleries, with wireless recordings bringing many to life as you get within 'earshot' (headsets are provided). You can also bang a drum in the Experiences Gallery and listen to Taylor Swift or Elvis Presley rock out in the Artist Gallery.
oDesert Botanical GardenGARDENS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %480-941-1225; www.dbg.org; 1201 N Galvin Pkwy; adult/senior/student 13-18yr/child 3-12yr $22/20/12/10; h8am-8pm Oct-Apr, 7am-8pm May-Sep)
Blue bells and Mexican gold poppies are just two of the colorful showstoppers blooming from March to May along the Desert Wildflower Loop Trail at this well-nurtured botanical garden, a lovely place to reconnect with nature while learning about desert plant life. Looping trails lead past a profusion of desert denizens, arranged by theme (including a Sonoran Desert nature loop and an edible desert garden). It's pretty dazzling year-round, but the flowering spring season is the busiest and most colorful.
Phoenix Art MuseumMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %602-257-1880; www.phxart.org; 1625 N Central Ave; adult/senior/student/child 6-17yr $18/15/13/9; h10am-5pm Tue & Thu-Sat, 10am-9pm Wed, noon-5pm Sun; p
c)
Arizona's premier repository of fine art includes works by Claude Monet, Diego Rivera and Georgia O'Keeffe. Make a beeline for the Western Gallery, to see how the astonishing Arizona landscape has inspired everyone from the early pioneers to modernists. Got kids? Pick up a Kidpack at Visitor Services, examine the ingeniously crafted miniature period Thorne Rooms or visit the PhxArtKids Gallery.
1Scottsdale
For a list of permanent and temporary public art displays, visit www.scottsdalepublicart.org.
Old Town ScottsdaleAREA
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; http://downtownscottsdale.com)
Tucked among Scottsdale's malls and bistros is its Old Town, a Wild West–themed enclave filled with cutesy buildings, covered sidewalks and stores hawking mass-produced 'Indian' artifacts. There's also a museum, public sculptures, saloons, a few galleries stocking genuine American Indian art, and horse-drawn buggies and singing cowboys in the cooler months.
Taliesin WestARCHITECTURE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %480-860-2700; www.franklloydwright.org; 12621 N Frank Lloyd Wright Blvd; tours from $26; h8:30am-6pm Oct-May, shorter hours Jun-Sep, closed Tue & Wed Jun-Aug)
Taliesin West was the desert home and studio of Frank Lloyd Wright, one of America's greatest 20th-century architects. A prime example of organic architecture, with buildings incorporating elements and structures found in surrounding nature, it was built between 1938 and 1940, and is still home to an architecture school. It's now a National Historical Monument, open to the public for informative guided tours.
1Tempe
Founded in 1885 and home to around 50,000 students, Arizona State University (ASU;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %480-965-2100; www.asu.edu) is the heart and soul of Tempe. The Gammage Auditorium (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %box office 480-965-3434, tours 480-965-6912; www.asugammage.com; 1200 S Forest Ave, cnr Mill Ave & Apache Blvd; entry free, performances from $20; hbox office 10am-5pm Mon-Thu in summer, 10am-6pm Mon-Fri rest of year) was Frank Lloyd Wright’s last major building. Easily accessible by light-rail from downtown Phoenix, Mill Avenue, Tempe’s main drag, is packed with restaurants, themed bars and other collegiate hangouts. You could also check out Tempe Town Lake (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.tempe.gov/lake), an artificial lake with boat rides and hiking paths.
1Mesa
oArizona Museum of Natural HistoryMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %480-644-2230; www.azmnh.org; 53 N MacDonald St; adult/child 3-12yr/student/senior $12/7/8/10; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat, 1-5pm Sun; c)
Even if you're not staying in Mesa, this museum is worth a trip, especially if your kids are into dinosaurs (and aren't they all?). In addition to the multilevel Dinosaur Mountain, there are loads of life-sized casts of the giant beasts plus a touchable apatosaurus thighbone. Other exhibits highlight the Southwest's pre-conquest past, and that of the Americas more broadly, from a prehistoric Hohokam village to an entire hall on ancient Mesoamerican cultures.
2Activities
Camelback MountainHIKING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %602-261-8318; www.phoenix.gov; hsunrise-sunset)
This 2704ft twin-humped mountain sits smack in the center of the Phoenix action. Two trails, the Cholla Trail (6131 E Cholla Lane) and the Echo Canyon Trail (4925 E McDonald Dr), climb about 1200ft to the summit. The newly renovated Echo Canyon Trail is extremely popular in spring and winter – the car park fills very early, even with 135 spots.
Salt River RecreationWATER SPORTS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %480-984-3305; www.saltrivertubing.com; 9200 N Bush Hwy; tubes & shuttle $17; h8:30am-6pm May-late Sep, hours vary after Labor Day; c)
With Salt River Recreation you can float in an inner tube on the Lower Salt River through the stark Tonto National Forest. The launch is in northeast Mesa, about 15 miles north of Hwy 60 on Power Rd. Floats are two, three or five hours long, including the shuttle-bus ride back. Cash only.
Cactus AdventuresMOUNTAIN BIKING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %480-688-4743; www.cactusadventures.com; 8000 S Arizona Grand Pkwy; half-day rental $60; hphone line 8am-8pm)
Based at Arizona Grand Resort, Cactus Adventures rents bikes for use at South Mountain and offers guided hiking and biking tours at various parks. For rentals, they will meet you at the trailhead; guided tours start from $155 per person (minimum two people).
Ponderosa StablesHORSEBACK RIDING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %602-268-1261; www.arizona-horses.com; 10215 S Central Ave; 1/2/3hr rides $40/60/80, minimum 2 riders for 3hr rides; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat; c)
This outfitter leads breakfast, lunch, dinner and sunset rides through South Mountain Park. Reservations are required for most trips. The stables are around 7 miles south of downtown Phoenix, directly down Central Ave.
zFestivals & Events
First FridaysART
(www.artlinkphoenix.com; h6-10pm 1st Fri of month)
Up to 20,000 people hit the streets of downtown Phoenix on the first Friday of every month for this self-guided 'art walk,' held across more than 70 galleries and performance spaces. Free shuttles radiating out from the Phoenix Art Museum ferry the cognoscenti from venue to venue.
Arizona State FairFAIR
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %602-252-6771; www.azstatefair.com; 1826 W McDowell Rd; adult/child 5-13yr $10/5; hOct)
This fair lures more than a million folks to the Arizona State Fairgrounds every October, with a rodeo, rides and amusements, livestock displays, a pie-eating contest and plenty of live performances.
4Sleeping
4Phoenix
HI Phoenix HostelHOSTEL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %602-254-9803; www.phxhostel.org; 1026 N 9th St; dm/r from $24/37; 
a
i
W)
Fall in love with backpacking again at this small hostel with fun owners who know Phoenix and want to enjoy it with you. The 22-bed hostel sits in an up-and-coming working-class neighborhood and has relaxing garden nooks. The 'talking table' – at which laptops and other devices are banned from 8am to 10am and 5pm to 10pm each day – is a very sociable innovation.
Maricopa ManorBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %602-264-9200, 800-292-6403; www.maricopamanor.com; 15 W Pasadena Ave; ste from $149; pW
s)
This small, Spanish-ranch-style place right near busy Central Ave has six individually appointed suites, many with French doors onto a deck overlooking the pool, garden and fountain areas. Although Maricopa Manor is central, it's well supplied with shady garden nooks, and privacy is easily achieved.
PHOENIX FOR KIDS
Wet ‘n’ Wild Phoenix (
GOOGLE MAP
; %623-201-2000; www.wetnwildphoenix.com; 4243 W Pinnacle Peak Rd, Glendale; over/under 42in tall $43/33, senior $33; h10am-8pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat Jun & Jul, shorter hours & weeks Mar-May & Aug-Oct; c) This water park has pools, tube slides, wave pools, waterfalls and floating rivers. It’s in Glendale, 2 miles west of I-17 at exit 217.
Children's Museum of Phoenix (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %602-253-0501; http://childrensmuseumofphoenix.org; 215 N 7th St; admission $11; h9am-4pm Tue-Sun; c) A tactile, climbable, paintable wonderland of interactive (and surreptitiously educational) exhibits.
Arizona Science Center (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %602-716-2000; www.azscience.org; 600 E Washington St; adult/child $18/13; h10am-5pm; c) A high-tech temple of discovery; there are more than 300 hands-on exhibits and a planetarium.
5Eating
5Phoenix
oDesoto Central MarketMARKET$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %602-680-7747; http://desotocentralmarket.com; 915 N Central Ave; mains $11-15; h7am-10pm Mon-Wed, 7am-midnight Thu-Sat, 8am-9pm Sun)
Making great use of a sensitively restored 1920s DeSoto dealership, this indoor 'market' is really a collective of inventive kitchens, slinging their goods together under the one roof. Special mention goes to New Southern affair the Larder and the Delta, whose shrimp 'n' grits (with smoked andouille sausage and hot sauce) or chili-garlic glazed baby back ribs will leave you gasping.
Green New American VegetarianVEGAN, VEGETARIAN$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %602-258-1870; www.greenvegetarian.com; 2022 N 7th St; mains $8-10; h11am-9pm Mon-Sat; 
v)
Your expectations of vegan food will be forever raised after dining at this hip cafe, where chef Damon Brasch stirs up savory vegan and vegetarian dishes. Made with mock meats, the burgers, po'boys and Asian-style bowls taste as good, if not better, than their carnivorous counterparts. Order at the counter then take a seat in the garage-style digs.
Barrio CaféMEXICAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %602-636-0240; www.barriocafe.com; 2814 N 16th St; mains $12-29; h11am-10pm Tue-Sat, to 9pm Sun; v)
Barrio's staff wear T-shirts emblazoned with comida chingona, which translates as 'fucking good food,' and they don't lie. This is Mexican food at its most creative: how many menus have you seen featuring guacamole spiked with pomegranate seeds, buttered corn with chipotle, aged cheese, cilantro and lime or goat's-milk-caramel-filled churros? Drinks are half price from 2pm to 5pm daily.
oDick's HideawayNEW MEXICAN$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %602-265-5886; http://richardsonsnm.com; 6008 N 16th St; breakfast $15-16, mains $25-27; h8am-11pm Sun-Wed, to midnight Thu-Sat)
At this pocket-sized ode to New Mexican cuisine, grab a small table beside the bar or settle in at the communal table in the side room and prepare for hearty servings of savory, chile-slathered New Mexican fare, from enchiladas to tamales to rellenos. We especially like the Hideaway for breakfast, when the Bloody Marys arrive with a shot of beer.
House of TricksAMERICAN$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %480-968-1114; www.houseoftricks.com; 114 E 7th St, Tempe; lunch $12-13, dinner $27-30; h11am-10pm Mon-Sat)
No, they don’t do magic, but Robin and Robert Trick will still wow you with their eclectic, contemporary American menu that borrows influences from the Southwest, the Med and Asia. The trellised garden patio usually buzzes with regulars and drop-ins, but the tables inside the vintage cottages are equally charming.
5Scottsdale
oThe MissionMEXICAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %480-636-5005; www.themissionaz.com; 3815 N Brown Ave; lunch $14-18, dinner $14-30; h11am-3pm & 5-10pm)
With its dark interior and glowing votives, we'll call this nuevo Latin spot sexy – although our exclamations about the food's deliciousness may ruin the sultry vibe. The Tecate-marinated steak taco with lime and avocado is superb and makes for a satisfying light lunch. The guacamole is made table-side, and wins raves. Margaritas and mojitos round out the fun.
Herb BoxAMERICAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %480-289-6160; www.theherbbox.com; 7134 E Stetson Dr; brunch $13-15, lunch $14-17, dinner $17-22; h11am-9pm Mon-Thu, 11am-10pm Fri, 9am-10pm Sat, 9am-4pm Sun; Wv)
It's not just about sparkle and air kisses at this chichi bistro in the heart of Old Town Scottsdale's Southbridge. It's also about fresh regional ingredients, artful presentation and attentive service. For a light, healthy lunch (perhaps char-grilled steak tartine, or serrano, avocado and shrimp salad), settle in on the patio and toast your good fortune with a blackberry mojito.
5Tempe
oKai RestaurantAMERICAN INDIAN$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %602-225-0100; www.wildhorsepassresort.com; 5594 W Wild Horse Pass Blvd, Chandler; mains $48-54, tasting menus $145-$245; h5:30-9pm Tue-Sat)
American Indian cuisine – based on traditional crops grown along the Gila River – soars to new heights at Kai ('seed'). Expect creations such as grilled buffalo tenderloin with smoked corn puree and cholla buds, or wild scallops with mesquite-smoked caviar and tepary-bean crackling. The unobtrusive service is flawless, the wine list expertly curated and the room decorated with American Indian art.
Kai is at the Sheraton Wild Horse Pass Resort & Spa on the Gila River Indian Reservation. Book ahead and dress nicely (no shorts or hats).
6Drinking & Nightlife
oBitter & TwistedCOCKTAIL BAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %602-340-1924; https://bitterandtwistedaz.com; 1 W Jefferson St; h4pm-2am Tue-Sat)
Housed in the former Arizona Prohibition Headquarters, this stylish seating-only cocktail bar shakes up some serious mixes and slings some delicious food to keep drinkers upright. Particularly lip-smacking is the dragon dumpling burger – pork and beef with Sichuan pickle and dumpling sauce.
Lux Central CoffeebarCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %602-327-1396; www.luxcoffee.com; 4402 N Central Ave; h6am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W)
MacBooks, tatts and hipster looks are de rigueur at this cafe-bar. The staff are adept and welcoming, the coffee is hand-roasted and the vibe is lively – everything you need to while away an hour over mid-morning coffee, dinner or a cocktail.
Four Peaks Brewing CompanyBREWERY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %480-303-9967; www.fourpeaks.com; 1340 E 8th St; h11am-midnight Mon-Wed, 11am-1am Thu & Fri, 9am-midnight Sat & Sun; W)
Hipsters, families, craft-beer obsessives and the plain thirsty congrerate happily in this 1890s brick brewhouse, filling growlers of Kilt Lifter or Pitchfork Pale from the tap, or just chatting over a pint or two. There's also toothsome pub grub, tasting tours ($10 per head), a gift shop, and further locations in Tempe, Scottsdale and Phoenix Sky Harbor.
3Entertainment
Check Arizona Republic Calendar (www.azcentral.com/thingstodo/events) and Phoenix New Times (www.phoenixnewtimes.com) for listings.
The Phoenix Symphony (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %administration 602-495-1117, box office 602-495-1999; www.phoenixsymphony.org; 75 N 2nd St) performs at Symphony Hall (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %602-262-6225; www.phoenixconventioncenter.com; 75 N 2nd St) and other local venues, while the Arizona Opera (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %602-266-7464; www.azopera.com; 75 N 2nd St) is based at an opera hall across the street from the Phoenix Art Museum. The Arizona Diamondbacks (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %602-462-6500; http://arizona.diamondbacks.mlb.com; 401 E Jefferson St) play baseball at downtown’s air-conditioned Chase Field (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %tours 602-462-6799; www.mlb.com/ari/ballpark; 401 E Jefferson St; adult/senior/child $7/5/3; htours 9:30am, 11am, 12:30pm Mon-Sat, additional tours on game days), while the men’s basketball team, the Phoenix Suns (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %602-379-7900; www.nba.com/suns; 201 E Jefferson St), and the women’s team, the Phoenix Mercury (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %602-252-9622; www.wnba.com/mercury; 201 E Jefferson St), are also downtown, at Talking Stick Resort Arena. The Arizona Cardinals (
GOOGLE MAP
; %602-379-0101; www.azcardinals.com; 1 Cardinals Dr, Glendale) play football in Glendale at the University of Phoenix Stadium, which hosted the Super Bowl in 2015.
Herberger Theater CenterTHEATER
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %602-252-8497; www.herbergertheater.org; 222 E Monroe St; hbox office 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, from noon Sat & Sun & 1hr before performances)
Housing several theater companies and three stages, the Herberger also plays host to visiting troupes and productions. The predominant fare is drama and musicals, but you can also catch dance, opera and exhibitions of local art here.
Char's Has the BluesBLUES
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %602-230-0205; www.charshastheblues.com; 4631 N 7th Ave; cover $3 Thu-Sun; h8pm-1am)
Dark and intimate – but very welcoming – this shabby-fronted blues and R&B shack packs 'em in with solid acts most nights of the week, but somehow still manages to feel like a well-kept secret.
8Information
Interet Resources & Media
KJZZ 91.5 FM (http://kjzz.org) National Public Radio (NPR).
Wi-fi is ubiquitous throughout Phoenix, or you can use the free internet at Burton Barr Central Library (
GOOGLE MAP
; %602-262-4636; www.phoenixpubliclibrary.org; 1221 N Central Ave; h9am-5pm Mon, Fri & Sat, 9am-9pm Tue-Thu, 1-5pm Sun; W); see the website for additional locations.
Post
Downtown Post OfficePOST
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %602-253-9648; www.usps.com; 522 N Central Ave; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)
Housed in a beautiful 1930s federal building.
8Getting There & Away
Sky Harbor International Airport (
GOOGLE MAP
; %602-273-3300; http://skyharbor.com; 3400 E Sky Harbor Blvd; W) is 3 miles southeast of downtown Phoenix and served by airlines including United, American, Delta and British Airways. Its three terminals (Terminals 2, 3 and 4; Terminal 1 was demolished in 1990) and the parking lots are linked by free shuttles and the Phoenix Sky Train (www.skyharbor.com/phxskytrain).
Greyhound (
GOOGLE MAP
; %602-389-4200; www.greyhound.com; 2115 E Buckeye Rd) runs buses to Tucson ($18, two hours, six daily), Flagstaff ($25, three hours, five daily), Albuquerque ($70 to $87, 9½ hours, three daily) and Los Angeles ($46, 7½ hours, seven daily). Valley Metro's No 13 bus links the airport and the Greyhound station; tell the driver your destination is the Greyhound station.
For shared rides from the airport, the citywide door-to-door shuttle service provided by Super Shuttle (%602-244-9000, 800-258-3826; www.supershuttle.com) costs about $13 to downtown Phoenix, $15 to Tempe, $17 to Old Town Scottsdale and $21 to Mesa.
Valley Metro (%602-253-5000; www.valleymetro.org) operates buses all over the Valley and a 20-mile light-rail line linking north Phoenix with downtown Phoenix, Tempe/ASU and downtown Mesa. Fares for both light-rail and bus are $2 per ride (no transfers) or $4 for a day pass. Buses run daily at intermittent times.
ARIZONA'S BEST SCENIC DRIVES
Oak Creek Canyon A thrilling plunge past swimming holes, rockslides and crimson canyon walls on Hwy 89A between Flagstaff and Sedona.
Hwy 89/89A Wickenburg to Sedona The Old West meets the New Weston on this lazy drive past dude ranches, mining towns, art galleries and stylish wineries.
Patagonia–Sonoita Scenic Road This one’s for the birds, and those who like to track them, in Arizona’s southern wine country on Hwys 82 and 83.
Kayenta–Monument Valley Star inyour own Western on an iconic loop past cinematic red rocks in Navajo country.
Vermilion Cliffs Scenic Road A solitary drive on Hwy 89A through the Arizona Strip linking condor country, the North Rim and Mormon hideaways.
Central Arizona
North of Phoenix, the wooded, mountainous and much cooler Colorado Plateau is draped with scenic sites and attractions. You can channel your inner goddess at a vortex, hike through ponderosa-perfumed canyons, admire ancient Native American dwellings and delve into Old West history.
The main hub, Flagstaff, is a lively and delightful college town that’s the gateway to the Grand Canyon South Rim. Summer, spring and fall are the best times to visit. On I-17, you can drive the 145 miles between Phoenix and Flagstaff in just over two hours. Opt for the more leisurely Hwy 89 and you’ll be rewarded with beautiful landscapes and intriguing diversions.
Prescott
With its historic Victorian-era downtown and colorful Wild West heritage, Prescott feels like the Midwest-meets-cowboy country. Boasting more than 500 buildings on the National Register of Historic Places, it’s the home of the world’s oldest rodeo, while the infamous strip of old saloons known as Whiskey Row still plies its patrons with booze.
Just south of downtown, the winningly retro Motor Lodge (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-717-0157; www.themotorlodge.com; 503 S Montezuma St; r/ste/apt from $109/129/139; aW) welcomes guests with 12 snazzy bungalows arranged around a central driveway – it’s indie lodging at its best. For breakfast, mosey into the friendly Local (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-237-4724; 520 W Sheldon St; mains $11-12; h7am-2.30pm; W), where home baking and a classic Southwestern breakfast can be counted on. Cajun and Southwest specialties spice up the menu at delightful Iron Springs Cafe (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-443-8848; www.ironspringscafe.com; 1501 Iron Springs Rd; brunch & lunch $11-13, dinner $16-20; h11am-8pm Wed-Sat, 9am-2pm Sun), which sits inside an old train station 3 miles northwest of downtown.
On Whiskey Row, the Palace (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-541-1996; www.historicpalace.com; 120 S Montezuma St; h11am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat) is an atmospheric place to drink; you enter through swinging saloon doors into a big room anchored by a Brunswick bar. The visitor center (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-445-2000, 800-266-7534; https://prescott.org; 117 W Goodwin St; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat & Sun) has tourist information, while Arizona Shuttle (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-226-8060, 800-888-2749; www.arizonashuttle.com) runs buses to/from Phoenix airport.
Jerome
This resurrected ghost town was known as the ‘Wickedest Town in the West’ during its late-1800s mining heyday, but its historic buildings have now been restored to hold galleries, restaurants, B&Bs and wine-tasting rooms.
Feeling brave? Stand on the glass platform covering the 1910ft mining shaft at Audrey Headframe Park (
GOOGLE MAP
; www.jeromehistoricalsociety.com; 55 Douglas Rd; h8am-5pm) – it’s deeper than the Empire State Building by 650ft! Just ahead, the excellent Jerome State Historic Park (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-634-5381; www.azstateparks.com; 100 Douglas Rd; adult/child 7-13yr $7/4; h8:30am-5pm) preserves the 1916 mansion of mining mogul Jimmy ‘Rawhide’ Douglas.
A community hospital in the mining era, the Jerome Grand Hotel (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-634-8200; www.jeromegrandhotel.com; 200 Hill St; r/ste $225/325; aW) plays up its past with medical relics in the hallways and an entertaining ghost tour kids will enjoy. The adjoining Asylum Restaurant (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-639-3197; www.asylumrestaurant.com; 200 Hill St; lunch $12-14, dinner $26-28; h11am-3pm & 5-9pm; W), with its sweeping views, is a breathtaking spot for a fine meal and glass of wine.
Downtown, the Spirit Room Bar (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-634-8809; www.spiritroom.com; 166 Main St; h11am-1am) is a lively watering hole. Step into the Flatiron Café (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-634-2733; www.theflatironjerome.com; 416 Main St; breakfast $8-10, lunch $11-13; h8:30am-3:30pm Wed-Mon) at the Y intersection for a gourmet breakfast or lunch; the specialty coffees are delicious. For information, call in at the chamber of commerce (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-634-2900; www.jeromechamber.com; 310 Hull Ave; h11am-3pm Thu-Mon).
VERDE VALLEY WINE TRAIL
Vineyards, wineries and tasting rooms are increasingly thick on the ground in the well-watered valley of the Verde River. Bringing star power is Maynard James Keenan, lead singer of the band Tool and owner of Caduceus Cellars and Merkin Vineyards. His 2010 documentary Blood into Vine takes a no-holds-barred look at the wine industry.
In Cottonwood, drive or float to Alcantara Vineyards (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-649-8463; www.alcantaravineyard.com; 3445 S Grapevine Way, Cottonwood; wine tasting $10-15; h11am-5pm) on the Verde River, then stroll through Old Town where Arizona Stronghold (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-639-2789; www.azstronghold.com; 1023 N Main St; wine tasting $9; hnoon-7pm Sun-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat), Merkin Vineyards Osteria (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-639-1001; http://merkinvineyardsosteria.com; 1001 N Main St; h11am-9pm; W) and Pillsbury Wine Company (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-639-0646; www.pillsburywine.com; 1012 N Main St; wine tasting $10-12; h11am-6pm Sun-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat) are three of the best wine-tasting rooms on oenophile-friendly Main St.
In Jerome, start at Cellar 433 (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-634-7033; www.cellar433.com; 240 Hull Ave; h11am-6pm Thu-Sun, to 5pm Mon-Wed) near the visitor center. From there, stroll up to Keenan's Caduceus Cellars (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-639-9463; www.caduceus.org; 158 Main St; h11am-6pm Sun-Thu, to 8pm Sat), near the Connor Hotel.
Three wineries with tasting rooms hug a scrubby stretch of Page Springs Rd east of Cornville: bistro-housing Page Springs Cellars (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-639-3004; http://pagespringscellars.com; 1500 Page Springs Rd, Cornville; tours from $19; h11am-7pm Sun-Wed, to 9pm Thu-Sat), the welcoming Oak Creek Vineyards (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-649-0290; www.oakcreekvineyards.net; 1555 N Page Springs Rd, Cornville; wine tasting $10; h10am-6pm) and the mellow-rock-playing Javelina Leap Vineyard (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-649-2681; www.javelinaleapwinery.com; 1565 Page Springs Rd, Cornville; tasting per wine $2-3; h11am-5pm Sun-Thu, to 6pm Fri & Sat).
For a wine-trail map and more details about the wineries, visit www.vvwinetrail.com.
Sedona
Nestled amid striking red sandstone formations at the south end of the 16-mile Oak Creek Canyon, Sedona attracts spiritual seekers, artists and healers, as well as day-trippers from Phoenix trying to escape the oppressive heat. Many New Age types believe that this area is the center of vortexes (not 'vortices' here in Sedona) that radiate the earth's power, and you'll find all sorts of alternative medicines and practices on display. More tangibly, the surrounding canyons offer outstanding hiking, biking, swimming and camping.
1Sights & Activities
New Agers believe Sedona’s rocks, cliffs and rivers radiate Mother Earth’s mojo. The four best-known vortexes are Bell Rock (
GOOGLE MAP
) near the Village of Oak Creek east of Hwy 179; Cathedral Rock (
GOOGLE MAP
) near Red Rock Crossing; Airport Mesa (
GOOGLE MAP
; Airport Rd) along Airport Rd; and Boynton Canyon (
GOOGLE MAP
). Airport Rd is also a great location for watching the Technicolor sunsets.
oRed Rock State ParkPARK
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-282-6907; https://azstateparks.com/red-rock; 4050 Red Rock Loop Rd; adult $7, child 7-13yr $4, 6yr & under free; h8am-5pm, visitor center 9am-4:30pm; c)
Not to be confused with Slide Rock State Park, this 286-acre park includes an environmental education center, picnic areas and 5 miles of well-marked, interconnecting trails in a riparian environment amid gorgeous red-rock country. Trails range from flat creekside saunters to moderate climbs to scenic ridges. Ranger-led activities include nature and bird walks. Swimming in the creek is prohibited. It's 9 miles west of downtown Sedona off Hwy 89A, on the eastern edge of the 15-mile Lime Kiln Trail.
oSlide Rock State ParkSWIMMING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-282-3034, information line 602-542-0202; www.azstateparks.com/parks/slro; 6871 N Hwy 89A, Oak Creek Canyon; per car Jun-Sep $20, Oct-May $10; h8am-7pm Jun-Aug, shorter hours rest of the year; c)
One of Sedona's most popular and most crowded destinations, this state park 7 miles north of town features an 80ft sandstone chute that whisks swimmers through Oak Creek. Short trails ramble past old cabins, farming equipment and an apple orchard, but the park's biggest draw is the set of wonderful natural rock slides.
oPink Jeep ToursDRIVING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %800-873-3662, 928-282-5000; www.pinkjeeptours.com; 204 N Hwy 89A; h6am-10pm; c)
It seems like this veteran of Sedona's tour industry has jeeps everywhere, buzzing around like pink flies. But once you join a tour, laughing and bumping around, you'll see why they're so popular. Pink runs 15 thrilling, bone-rattling off-road and adventure tours around Sedona, with most lasting from about two hours (adult/child from $59/54) to four hours (from $154/139).
4Sleeping
Sedona and nearby Oak Creek Canyon host many beautiful B&Bs, creekside cabins, motels and full-service resorts. Dispersed camping is not permitted in Red Rock Canyon. The Forest Service runs campgrounds, without hookups, in the woods of Oak Creek Canyon, just off Hwy Alt 89. It costs $18 to camp, and you don’t need a Red Rock Pass. All campgrounds except Pine Flat East accept reservations. Six miles north of town, Manzanita has 19 sites, showers and is open year round; 11.5 miles north, Cave Springs has 82 sites, and showers; Pine Flat East and Pine Flat West, 12.5 miles north, together have 58 sites, 18 of which can be reserved.
Cozy CactusB&B$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-284-0082, 800-788-2082; www.cozycactus.com; 80 Canyon Circle Dr, Village of Oak Creek; d from $210; aW)
This five-room B&B, run by Carrie and Mark, works well for adventure-loving types – the Southwest-style house bumps up against Agave Trail, and is just around the bend from cyclist-friendly Bell Rock Pathway. Post-adventuring, get comfy beside the firepit on the back patio, perfect for wildlife-watching and stargazing, and enjoy the three-course breakfast that awaits you the next morning.
5Eating & Drinking
Sedona's restaurants are clustered around Uptown and strung along Highways 89A and 179. Pick up groceries and picnic ingredients at Whole Foods (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-282-6311; 1420 W Hwy 89A; h8am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun; v) or Bashas' (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-282-5351; 160 Coffee Pot Dr; h6am-11pm).
Sedona MemoriesDELI$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-282-0032; 321 Jordan Rd; sandwiches $8.50; h10am-2pm Mon-Fri)
This tiny local spot assembles gigantic sandwiches on slabs of homemade bread. A great choice for a picnic, as they pack 'em tight to-go, so there's less mess. You can also nosh on their quiet porch. If you call in your order, they'll toss in a free cookie. Cash only.
Black Cow CaféICE CREAM$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-203-9868; 229 N Hwy 89A; medium ice cream $5; h10:30am-9pm)
Many claim the Black Cow's homemade ice cream is the best in town: try the prickly pear.
oElote CafeMEXICAN$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-203-0105; www.elotecafe.com; Arabella Hotel, 771 Hwy 179; mains $22-28; h5-10pm Tue-Sat)
Come here for some of the best, most authentic Mexican food in the region. Elote Cafe serves unusual and traditional dishes you won't find elsewhere, like the namesake elote (fire-roasted corn with spicy mayo, lime and cotija cheese) or smoked chicken in guajillo chiles. Reservations are not accepted and the line can be off-putting: come early, bring a book, order a margarita.
Dahl & DiLuca RistoranteITALIAN$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-282-5219; www.dahlanddiluca.com; 2321 Hwy 89A; mains $27-38; h5-10pm)
Though this lovely Italian place fits perfectly into the groove and color scheme of Sedona, at the same time it feels like the kind of place you'd find in a small Italian seaside town. It's a bustling, welcoming spot serving excellent, authentic Italian food. Try the pork chop and asparagus from the grill or the four-cheese ravioli in truffle cream.
RED ROCK PASS
To park on National Forest land around Sedona and Oak Creek Canyon, you'll need to buy a Red Rock Pass, which is available at ranger stations, visitor centers and vending machines at most trailheads and picnic areas. Passes cost $5 per day or $15 per week and must be displayed under the windshield of your car. You don't need a pass if you're just stopping briefly for a photograph or to enjoy a viewpoint, or if you have one of the Federal Interagency Passes.
8Information
Red Rock Country Visitor Center (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-203-2900; www.redrockcountry.org; 8375 Hwy 179; h9am-4:30pm) Get a Red Rock Pass here, as well as hiking guides, maps and local national forest information.
Sedona Chamber of Commerce Visitor Center (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-282-7722, 800-288-7336; www.visitsedona.com; 331 Forest Rd; h8:30am-5pm) Located in the pedestrian center of Uptown Sedona; pick up free maps and buy a Red Rock Pass.
Flagstaff
Flagstaff's laid-back charms are many, from a pedestrian-friendly historic downtown crammed with eclectic vernacular architecture and vintage neon, to hiking and skiing in the country's largest ponderosa pine forest. And the locals are a happy, athletic bunch, skewing more toward granola than gunslinger: buskers play bluegrass on street corners while cycling culture flourishes. Northern Arizona University (NAU) gives Flag its college-town flavor, while its railroad history still figures firmly in the town's identity. Throw in a healthy appreciation for craft beer, freshly roasted coffee beans and an all-around good time and you have the makings of the perfect northern Arizonan escape.
1Sights
oLowell ObservatoryOBSERVATORY
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-774-3358, recorded information 928-233-3211; www.lowell.edu; 1400 W Mars Hill Rd; adult/senior/child 5-17yr $15/14/8; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun; c)
Sitting atop a hill just west of downtown, this national historic landmark – famous for the first sighting of Pluto, in 1930 – was built by Percival Lowell in 1894. Weather permitting, visitors can stargaze through on-site telescopes, including the famed 1896 Clark Telescope, the impetus behind the now-accepted theory of an expanding universe. Kids will love the paved Pluto Walk, which meanders through a scale model of our solar system.
oMuseum of Northern ArizonaMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-774-5213; www.musnaz.org; 3101 N Fort Valley Rd; adult/senior/child 10-17yr $12/10/8; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun; c)
Housed in an attractive Craftsman-style stone building amid a pine grove, this small but excellent museum spotlights local American Indian archaeology, history and culture, as well as geology, biology and the arts. Intriguing permanent collections are augmented by exhibitions on subjects such as John James Audubon's paintings of North American mammals. On the way to the Grand Canyon it makes a wonderful introduction to the human and natural history of the region.
Riordan Mansion State Historic ParkHISTORIC SITE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-779-4395; https://azstateparks.com/riordan-mansion; 409 W Riordan Rd; tour adult/child 7-13yr $10/5; h9:30am-5pm May-Oct, 10:30am-5pm Thu-Mon Nov-Apr)
Having made a fortune from their Arizona Lumber Company, brothers Michael and Timothy Riordan built this sprawling duplex in 1904. The Craftsman-style design was the brainchild of architect Charles Whittlesey, who also designed El Tovar in Grand Canyon Village. The exterior features hand-split wooden shingles, log-slab siding and rustic stone. Filled with Edison, Stickley, Tiffany and Steinway furniture, the interior is a shrine to arts and crafts.
DON'T MISS
WALNUT CANYON
Walnut CanyonRUINS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-526-3367; www.nps.gov/waca; I-40 exit 204; adult/child under 16yr $8/free; h8am-5pm Jun-Oct, 9am-5pm Nov-May, trails close 1hr earlier; p)
The Sinagua cliff dwellings at Walnut Canyon are set in the nearly vertical walls of a small limestone butte amid this stunning forested canyon. The mile-long Island Trail steeply descends 185ft (more than 200 stairs), passing 25 rooms built under the natural overhangs of the curvaceous butte. A shorter, wheelchair-accessible Rim Trail affords several views of the cliff dwelling from across the canyon.
2Activities
Absolute BikesCYCLING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-779-5969; www.absolutebikes.net; 202 E Rte 66; bike rentals per day from $39; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun Apr-Thanksgiving, shorter hours Dec-Mar)
Visit these super-friendly gearheads for the inside track on the local mountain-biking scene, and to hire wheels for the surrounding trails.
Arizona SnowbowlSKIING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-779-1951; www.arizonasnowbowl.com; 9300 N Snowbowl Rd; lift ticket adult $75, youth 13-17yr $64, child 8-12yr $42; h9am-4pm mid-Nov–mid-Apr; c)
About 14 miles north of downtown Flagstaff, Arizona Snowbowl is small but lofty, with eight lifts that service 40 ski runs between 9200ft and 11,500ft. The season normally runs from November to April.
4Sleeping
Unlike in southern Arizona, summer is high season here.
Flagstaff KOACAMPGROUND$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-526-9926, reservations 800-562-3524; www.flagstaffkoa.com; 5803 N Hwy 89; tent/RV site $33/38, cabins & tipis from $65; pW
#)
This big ponderosa-shaded campground lies a mile north of I-40 off exit 201, 5 miles northeast of downtown Flagstaff. A path leads from the campground to trails at Mt Elden, and it's family friendly, with banana-bike rentals, summer barrel-train rides, weekend movies and a splash park. The four one-room cabins sleep four, but bedding isn't supplied.
oHotel Monte VistaHISTORIC HOTEL$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-779-6971; www.hotelmontevista.com; 100 N San Francisco St; r/ste from $115/145; aW)
A huge, old-fashioned neon sign towers over this 1926 landmark hotel, hinting at what's inside: feather lampshades, vintage furniture, bold colors and eclectic decor. Rooms are named for the movie stars who stayed here, including the 'Humphrey Bogart,' with dramatic black walls, yellow ceiling and gold-satin bedding. Several resident ghosts supposedly make regular appearances.
CAMPING AROUND FLAGSTAFF
Free dispersed camping is permitted in the Coconino National Forest surrounding Flagstaff. There are also campgrounds in Oak Creek Canyon to the south of town and Sunset Crater to the north.
5Eating
Flagstaff's college population and general dedication to living well translate into one of the best dining scenes in the state. Self-caterers can try Bashas' (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-774-3882; www.bashas.com; 2700 S Woodlands Village Blvd; h6am-11pm), a good local chain supermarket with a respectable selection of organic foods. For healthy food, there's Whole Foods Market (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-774-5747; www.wholefoodsmarket.com; 320 S Cambridge Lane; h7am-9pm; v).
Diablo BurgerBURGERS$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-774-3274; www.diabloburger.com; 120 N Leroux St; mains $11-14; h11am-9pm Sun-Wed, 11am-10pm Thu-Sat; W)
This locally focused gourmet-burger joint slings hefty burgers on English-muffin buns and delicious Herbes de Provence seasoned fries. The cheddar-topped Blake gives a nod to New Mexico with Hatch-chile mayo and roasted green chiles. The place is tiny, so come early or sit outside and people-watch. Beer and wine are also served.
oBrix Restaurant & Wine BarINTERNATIONAL$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-213-1021; www.brixflagstaff.com; 413 N San Francisco St; mains $30-32; h5-9pm Sun & Tue-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat; v)
Brix offers seasonal, locally sourced and generally top-notch fare in a handsome room with exposed brick walls and an intimate copper bar. Sister business Proper Meats + Provisions, on S San Francisco St, supplies charcuterie, free-range pork and other fundamentals of lip-smacking dishes that include cavatelli with Calabrese sausage, kale and preserved lemon. The wine list is well curated, and reservations are recommended.
oCoppa CafeCAFE$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-637-6813; www.coppacafe.net; 1300 S Milton Rd; lunch & brunch $11-15, mains $28-31; h3-9pm Wed-Fri, 11am-3pm & 5-9pm Sat, 10am-3pm Sun; W)
Brian Konefal and Paola Fioravanti, who met at an Italian culinary school, are the husband-and-wife team behind this friendly, art-strewn bistro with egg-yolk-yellow walls. Expect ingredients foraged from nearby woods (and further afield in Arizona) in dishes such as slow-roasted top loin with wildflower butter, or clay-baked duck's egg with a 'risotto' of Sonoran wheat and wild herbs.
6Drinking & Entertainment
For details about festivals and music programs, call the Visitor Center or check www.flagstaff365.com. On Friday and Saturday nights in summer, people gather on blankets for free music and family movies at Heritage Sq. The fun starts at 5pm.
On Thursdays pick up a free copy of Flagstaff Live! (www.flaglive.com) for current shows and happenings around town.
oHops on BirchPUB
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-774-4011; www.hopsonbirch.com; 22 E Birch Ave; h1:30pm-12:30am Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri, noon-2am Sat, noon-12:30am Sun)
Simple and handsome, Hops on Birch has 34 rotating beers on tap, live music five nights a week and a friendly local-crowd vibe. In classic Flagstaff style, dogs are as welcome as humans.
Monte Vista Cocktail LoungeBAR
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-779-6971; www.hotelmontevista.com; 100 N San Francisco St, Hotel Monte Vista; h4pm-2am Mon-Sat)
With a prime corner spot in downtown Flagstaff, complete with broad windows for people-watching, this former speakeasy in the historic Hotel Monte Vista has a pressed-tin ceiling, pool table, live music three nights a week, plus a Sunday quiz, karaoke and all-day 'happy hour' on Mondays.
8Information
USFS Flagstaff Ranger Station (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-526-0866; www.fs.usda.gov; 5075 N Hwy 89; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri) Provides information on the Mt Elden, Humphreys Peak and O'Leary Peak areas north of Flagstaff.
Visitor Center (
GOOGLE MAP
; %800-842-7293, 928-213-2951; www.flagstaffarizona.org; 1 E Rte 66; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat, 9am-4pm Sun) Located inside the Amtrak station, the visitor center has a great Flagstaff Discovery map and tons of information on things to do.
WORTH A TRIP
SUNSET CRATER VOLCANO NATIONAL MONUMENT
oSunset Crater Volcano National MonumentVOLCANO
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-526-0502; www.nps.gov/sucr; Park Loop Rd 545; car/motorcycle/bicycle or pedestrian $20/15/10; h9am-5pm Nov-May, from 8am Jun-Oct)
Williams
Affable Williams, 60 miles south of Grand Canyon Village and 35 miles west of Flagstaff, is a gateway town with character. Classic motels and diners line Route 66, and the old-school homes and train station give a nod to simpler times.
Most tourists visit to ride the turn-of-the-20th-century Grand Canyon Railway (
GOOGLE MAP
; %reservations 800-843-8724; www.thetrain.com; 233 N Grand Canyon Bvd, Railway Depot; round-trip adult/child from $79/47) to the Canyon's South Rim, which departs Williams 9:30am and returns at 5:45pm. Even if you’re not a train buff, a trip is a scenic stress-free way to visit the Grand Canyon. Characters in period costumes provide historical and regional narration, and banjo folk music sets the tone.
The Red Garter Inn (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-635-1484; www.redgarter.com; 137 W Railroad Ave; d from $170; aW) is an 1897 bordello turned B&B where the ladies used to hang out the windows to flag down customers. The four rooms have nice period touches and the downstairs bakery has good coffee. The funky little Grand Canyon Hotel (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-635-1419; www.thegrandcanyonhotel.com; 145 W Route 66; dm/r from $33/87; hMar-Nov; aiW) has small themed rooms, a six-bed dorm and no TVs. You can also sleep inside a 1929 Santa Fe caboose or a Pullman railcar at the Canyon Motel & RV Park (
GOOGLE MAP
; %928-635-9371, 800-482-3955; www.thecanyonmotel.com; 1900 E Rodeo Rd; tent/RV sites from $31/44, cottages/cabooses from $90/180; aWs#), just east of downtown.
S