Highway 101 from Eureka to Crescent City

Past the strip malls sprawling around its edges, the heart of Eureka is Old Town, abounding with fine Victorians buildings, antique shops and restaurants. Cruise the harbor aboard the blue-and-white 1910 Madaket (Madaket Cruises; GOOGLE MAP ; %707-445-1910; www.humboldtbaymaritimemuseum.com; 1st St; narrated cruises adult/child $22/18; h1pm, 2:30pm & 4pm Wed-Sat, 1pm & 2:30pm Sun-Tue mid-May–mid-Oct; c) – 75-minute cruises cost adults $22 and depart from the foot of C St, while sunset cocktail cruises ($10) serve from the state’s smallest licensed bar. The visitor center ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.fws.gov/refuge/Humboldt_Bay/visit/VisitorCenter.html; 1020 Ranch Rd, Loleta; h8am-5pm) is on Hwy 101, south of downtown.

On the north side of Humboldt Bay, Arcata is a patchouli-dipped hippie haven of radical politics. Biodiesel-fueled trucks drive in for the Saturday farmers market (www.humfarm.org; 9am-2pm Apr-Nov, from 10am Dec-Mar) on the central plaza, surrounded by art galleries, shops, cafes and bars. Make reservations to soak at Finnish Country Sauna & Tubs ( GOOGLE MAP ; %707-822-2228; http://cafemokkaarcata.com; 495 J St; per 30min adult/child $9.75/2; hnoon-11pm Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; c). Northeast of downtown stands eco-conscious, socially responsible Humboldt State University (HSU; GOOGLE MAP ; %707-826-3011; www.humboldt.edu; 1 Harpst Dr; p).

Sixteen miles north of Arcata, Trinidad sits on a bluff overlooking a breathtakingly beautiful fishing harbor. Stroll sandy beaches or take short hikes around Trinidad Head after meeting tide-pool critters at the HSU Telonicher Marine Laboratory ( GOOGLE MAP ; %707-826-3671; www.humboldt.edu/marinelab; 570 Ewing St; $1; h9am-4:30pm Mon-Fri year-round, plus 10am-5pm Sat & Sun mid-Sep–mid-May; pc). Heading north of town, Patrick’s Point Dr is dotted with forested campgrounds, cabins and lodges. Patrick’s Point State Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; %707-677-3570; www.parks.ca.gov; 4150 Patrick's Point Dr; per car $8; hsunrise-sunset; pc) has stunning rocky headlands, beachcombing, an authentic reproduction of a Yurok village and a campground ( GOOGLE MAP ; %information 707-677-3570, reservations 800-444-7275; www.reserveamerica.com; 4150 Patrick's Point Dr; tent/RV sites $35/45; p#) with coin-op hot showers.

Heading north, Hwy 101 passes Redwood National Park’s Thomas H Kuchel Visitor Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %707-465-7765; www.nps.gov/redw; Hwy 101, Orick; h9am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar; c). Together, the national park and three state parks – Prairie Creek, Del Norte and Jedediah Smith – are a World Heritage site containing more than 40% of the world’s remaining old-growth redwood forests. The national park is free, while state parks have an $8 day-use parking fee and developed campgrounds. This patchwork of state- and federally managed land stretches all the way north to the Oregon border, interspersed with several towns. Furthest south, you’ll encounter Redwood National Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; %707-465-7335; www.nps.gov/redw; Hwy 101, Orick; pc), where a 1-mile nature trail winds through Lady Bird Johnson Grove.

Six miles north of Orick, the 10-mile Newton B Drury Scenic Parkway runs parallel to Hwy 101 through Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park. Roosevelt elk graze in the meadow outside the visitor center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %707-488-2039; www.parks.ca.gov; Newton B Drury Scenic Pkwy; h9am-5pm May-Sep, to 4pm Wed-Sun Oct-Apr; c), where sunlight-dappled hiking trails begin. Three miles back south, mostly unpaved Davison Rd heads northwest to Gold Bluffs Beach, dead-ending at the trailhead for unbelievably lush Fern Canyon.

North of tiny Klamath, Hwy 101 passes the Trees of Mystery ( GOOGLE MAP ; %707-482-2251; www.treesofmystery.net; 15500 Hwy 101; museum free, gondola adult/child $16/8; h8:30am-6:30pm Jun-Aug, 9am-6pm Sep & Oct, 9:30am-4:30pm Nov-May; pc), a kitschy roadside attraction. Next up, Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park preserves virgin redwood groves and unspoiled coastline. The 4.5-mile round-trip Damnation Creek Trail careens over 1000ft downhill past redwoods to a hidden rocky beach, best visited at low tide. Find the trailhead at a parking turnout near mile-marker 16 on Hwy 101.

Backed by a fishing harbor and bay, Crescent City is drab because, after more than half the town was destroyed by a tidal wave in 1964, it was rebuilt with utilitarian architecture. When the tide’s out, you can walk across to the 1856 Battery Point Lighthouse ( GOOGLE MAP ; %707-467-3089; www.delnortehistory.org; South A St; adult/child $3/1; h10am-4pm Wed-Sun Apr-Sep) from the south end of A St.

Beyond Crescent City, Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park is the northernmost park in the system. The redwood stands here are so dense that there are few trails, but a couple of easy hikes start near riverside swimming holes along Hwy 199 and rough, unpaved Howland Hill Rd, a 10-mile scenic drive. The Redwood National & State Parks’ Crescent City Information Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %707-465-7335; www.nps.gov/redw; 1111 2nd St; h9am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar) has maps and info.

4Sleeping

A mixed bag of budget and midrange motels is scattered along Hwy 101, including in Eureka, Arcata and Crescent City.

Curly Redwood LodgeMOTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %707-464-2137; www.curlyredwoodlodge.com; 701 Hwy 101 S; r $79-107; pnaW)

The motel is a marvel: it’s entirely built and paneled from a single curly redwood tree that measured over 18ft thick in diameter. Progressively restored and polished into a gem of mid-20th-century kitsch, the inn is like stepping into a time capsule and a delight for retro junkies. Rooms are clean, large and comfortable (request one away from the road).

oHistoric Requa InnHISTORIC HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %707-482-1425; www.requainn.com; 451 Requa Rd; r $119-199; pnW)S

A woodsy country lodge on bluffs overlooking the mouth of the Klamath, the creaky and bright 1914 Requa Inn is a North Coast favorite and – even better – it’s a carbon-neutral facility. Many of the charming, old-timey Americana rooms have mesmerizing views over the misty river, as does the dining room, which serves locally sourced, organic New American cuisine.

Carter House InnsB&B$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %707-444-8062; www.carterhouse.com; 301 L St; r $184-384; pnW)

Constructed in period style, this aesthetically remodeled hotel is a Victorian lookalike. Rooms have all modern amenities and top-quality linens; suites have in-room Jacuzzis and marble fireplaces. The same owners operate four other sumptuously decorated lodgings: a single-level house, two honeymoon hideaway cottages and a replica of an 1880s San Francisco mansion, which the owner built himself, entirely by hand.

5Eating & Drinking

Arcata has the biggest variety of dining options, from organic juice bars and vegan cafes to Californian and world-fusion bistros.

Wildberries MarketplaceMARKET, DELI$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %707-822-0095; www.wildberries.com; 747 13th St, Arcata; sandwiches $4-10; h7am-midnight; pv)

Wildberries Marketplace is Arcata's best grocery, with natural foods, a good deli, a bakery and a juice bar.

oCafe NoonerMEDITERRANEAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %707-443-4663; www.cafenooner.com; 409 Opera Alley; mains $10-14; h11am-4pm Sun-Wed, to 8pm Thu-Sat; c)

Exuding a cozy bistro-style ambience with red-and-white checkered tablecloths and jaunty murals, this perennially popular restaurant serves natural, organic and Med-inspired cuisine with choices that include a Greek-style meze platter, plus kebabs, salads and soups. There's a healthy kids menu, as well.

oBrick & FireCALIFORNIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %707-268-8959; www.brickandfirebistro.com; 1630 F St, Eureka; dinner mains $14-23; h11:30am-9pm Mon & Wed-Fri, 5-9pm Sat & Sun; W)

Eureka's best restaurant is in an intimate, warm-hued, bohemian-tinged setting that is almost always busy. Choose from thin-crust pizzas, delicious salads (try the pear and blue cheese) and an ever-changing selection of appetizers and mains that highlight local produce and wild mushrooms. There's a weighty wine list and servers are well-versed in pairings.

oSix Rivers BreweryMICROBREWERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %707-839-7580; www.sixriversbrewery.com; 1300 Central Ave, McKinleyville; h11:30am-11:30pm Sun & Tue-Thu, to 12:30am Fri & Sat, from 4pm Mon)

One of the first female-owned breweries in California, the ‘brew with a view’ kills it in every category: great beer, amazing community vibe, occasional live music and delicious hot wings. The spicy chili-pepper ale is amazing. At first glance the menu might seem like ho-hum pub grub, but portions are fresh and huge. They also make a helluva pizza.

8Getting There & Away

Arcata’s Greyhound (%800-231-2222; www.greyhound.com; W) depot has daily buses to San Francisco ($57, seven hours) via Eureka, Garberville, Ukiah and Santa Rosa. Several daily Redwood Transit System (%707-443-0826; www.redwoodtransit.org) buses stop in Eureka and Arcata on the Hwy 101 (Trinidad–Scotia) route ($3, 2½ hours).

Sacramento

Sacramento is a city of contrasts. It’s a former cow town where state legislators' SUVs go bumper-to-bumper with farmers' muddy, half-ton pickups at rush hour. It has sprawling suburbs, but also new lofts and upscale boutiques squeezed between aging mid-century storefronts.

The people of ‘Sac’ are a resourceful lot that have fostered small but thriving food, art and nightlife scenes. They rightfully crow about Second Saturday, the monthly Midtown gallery hop that is the symbol of the city’s cultural awakening. Their ubiquitous farmers markets, farm-to-fork fare and craft beers are another point of pride.

1Sights

oGolden 1 CenterSTADIUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %916-701-5400; www.golden1center.com; 500 David J Stern Walk; c)S

Welcome to the arena of the future. This gleaming home to the Sacramento Kings is one of the most advanced sports facilities in the country. Made with the highest sustainability standard, it's built from local materials, powered by solar and cooled by five-story airplane hangar doors that swing open to capture the pleasant Delta breeze.

oCalifornia MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %916-653-0650; www.californiamuseum.org; 1020 O St; adult/child $9/6.50; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, from noon Sun; c)

This modern museum is home to the California Hall of Fame and so the only place to simultaneously encounter César Chávez, Mark Zuckerberg and Amelia Earhart. The California Indians exhibit is a highlight, with artifacts and oral histories of more than 10 tribes.

Crocker Art MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %916-808-7000; https://crockerartmuseum.org; 216 O St; adult/child $10/5; h10am-5pm Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun, to 9pm Thu)

Housed in the ornate Victorian mansion (and sprawling additions) of a railroad baron, this museum has striking architecture and an excellent collection. Works by California painters and European masters hang beside an enthusiastically curated collection of contemporary art.

oCalifornia State CapitolHISTORIC BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %916-324-0333; http://capitolmuseum.ca.gov; 1315 10th St; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun; c)F

The gleaming dome of the California State Capitol is Sacramento’s most recognizable structure. A painting of Arnold Schwarzenegger in a suit hangs in the West Wing along with the other governors' portraits. Some will find Capitol Park, the 40 acres of gardens and memorials surrounding the building, more interesting than what's inside. Tours run hourly until 4pm.

4Sleeping

Hotels cater to business travelers, so look for weekend bargains. The freeways and suburbs around the city are glutted with budget and midrange chain lodgings.

HI Sacramento HostelHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %916-443-1691; http://norcalhostels.org/sac; 925 H St; dm $30-33, r from $86, without bath from $58; hreception 2-10:30pm; paiW)

In a grand Victorian mansion, this hostel offers impressive trimmings at rock-bottom prices. It’s within walking distance of the capitol, Old Sac and the train station, and has a piano in the parlor and large dining room. It attracts an international crowd often open to sharing a ride to San Francisco or Lake Tahoe.

oCitizen HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %877-829-2429, 916-442-2700; www.thecitizenhotel.com; 926 J St; r from $180; pnaiW#)

After an elegant, ultra-hip upgrade, this long-vacant 1927 beaux-arts tower became Downtown's coolest place to stay. The details are spot-on: luxe linens, wide-striped wallpaper and a rooftop patio with a great view of the city. There’s an upscale farm-to-fork restaurant ( GOOGLE MAP ; %916-492-4450; www.grangesacramento.com; 926 J St; mains $19-39; h6:30-10:30am, 11:30am-2pm & 5:30-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri, 8am-2pm & 5:30-11pm Sat, to 10pm Sun; W) on the ground floor.

Greens HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.thegreenshotel.com; 1700 Del Paso Blvd.; r from $127; pnaiWs)

This stylishly updated mid-century motel is one of Sacramento's hippest places to stay. Even though the neighborhood is a bit rough around the edges, the Greens' secure parking, pool and spacious grounds make it an ideal place for families to stop en route to or from Tahoe. The chic rooms are also classy enough for a romantic getaway.

5Eating & Drinking

Skip the overpriced fare in Old Sacramento or by the capitol and head Midtown or to the Tower District.

La Bonne Soupe CafeDELI$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %916-492-9506; 920 8th St; items $5-8; h11am-3pm Mon-Sat)

Divine soup and sandwiches assembled with such care that the line of Downtown lunchers snakes out the door. If you’re in a hurry, skip it. This humble lunch counter is focused on quality that predates drive-through haste.

oEmpress TavernNEW AMERICAN$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %916-662-7694; www.empresstavern.com; 1013 K St; mains $13-40; h11:30am-9pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri, 5-10pm Sat)

In the catacombs under the historic Crest Theater, this gorgeous restaurant hosts a menu of creative, meat-focused dishes (including family-style options like the falling-off-the-bone lamb osso buco). The space itself is just as impressive as the food; the arched brick ceilings and glittering bar feel like a speakeasy supper club from a bygone era.

oFieldwork Brewing CompanyBREWERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %916-329-8367; www.fieldworkbrewing.com; 1805 Capitol Ave; h11am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat)

Bustling with activity, this ultra-hip brewpub has over a dozen rotating taps of excellent, fresh beer. Playful variations of hoppy IPAs are the specialty (like the peachy Hammer Pants IPA), but it does lighter seasonal brews like the Salted Watermelon Gose. It also has board games – making it an easy place to linger when the weather is sweltering.

8Getting There & Around

Sacramento International Airport is one of the nearest options for those traveling to Yosemite National Park.

The regional Yolobus (%530-666-2877; www.yolobus.com) route 42B costs $2 and runs hourly between the airport and downtown; it also goes to West Sacramento, Woodland and Davis. Local Sacramento Regional Transit (RT; %916-321-2877; www.sacrt.com; fare $2.75) buses run around town; RT also runs a trolley between Old Sacramento and Downtown, as well as Sacramento’s light-rail system.

Sacramento is also a fantastic city to cruise around by bike; rent them from City Bicycle Works ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.citybicycleworks.com; 2419 K St; per hour/day from $5/20; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat, 11am-5pm Sun).

Gold Country

The miner forty-niners are gone, but a ride along Hwy 49 through sleepy hill towns, past clapboard saloons and oak-lined byways, is a journey back to the wild ride that was modern California’s founding: umpteen historical markers tell tales of gold-rush violence and banditry.

Hwy 50 divides the Northern and Southern Mines. Winding Hwy 49, which connects everything, provides plenty of vistas of the famous hills. The Gold Country Visitors Association (www.calgold.org) has many more touring ideas.

8Getting There & Around

You can reach the region by train on the transcontinental line that links Sacramento and Truckee/Reno and has a stop in Auburn. Auburn is the main entry point of the area, a short hop on the I-80 from Sacramento. From Auburn pick up Hwy 49, the classic route through the Gold Country.

Northern Mines

Known as the ‘Queen of the Northern Mines,’ the narrow streets of Nevada City gleam with lovingly restored buildings, tiny theaters, art galleries, cafes and shops. The visitor center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-265-2692; www.nevadacitychamber.com; 132 Main St; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat, 11am-3pm Sun) dispenses information and self-guided walking-tour maps. On Hwy 49, the Tahoe National Forest Headquarters ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-265-4531; www.fs.usda.gov/tahoe; 631 Coyote St; h8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri) provides camping and hiking information and wilderness permits.

Just over a mile east of utilitarian Grass Valley and Hwy 49, Empire Mine State Historic Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-273-8522; www.empiremine.org; 10791 Empire St; adult/child $7/3; h10am-5pm; pc) marks the site of one of the richest mines in California. From 1850 to 1956 it produced almost 6 million ounces of gold – over $6 billion in today’s market.

If it's hot, one of the best swimming holes in the area is at Auburn State Recreation Area ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-885-4527; www.parks.ca.gov; per car $10; h7am-sunset). It’s just east of Auburn, an I-80 pit stop about 25 miles south of Grass Valley.

Coloma is where California’s gold rush started. Riverside Marshall Gold Discovery State Historic Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-622-3470; www.parks.ca.gov; Hwy 49, Coloma; per car $8; h8am-8pm late May-early Sep, to 5pm early Sep-late May; pc#) pays tribute to James Marshall’s riot-inducing discovery, with restored buildings and gold-panning opportunities.

4Sleeping & Eating

Nevada City has the biggest spread of restaurants and historical B&Bs. Motels speckle Hwy 49 in Grass Valley and I-80 in Auburn.

oArgonaut Farm to Fork CafeAMERICAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-626-7345; www.argonautcafe.com; 331 Hwy 49, Coloma; items $3-10; h8am-4pm; Wvc)

Truly delicious soups, sandwiches, baked goods and coffee from well-known Sacramento and local purveyors find their way to this little wooden house in Marshall Gold Discovery State Historic Park. Crowds of schoolkids waiting for gelato can slow things down.

oOutside InnINN, COTTAGE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-265-2233; http://outsideinn.com; 575 E Broad St; d $79-210; pnaWs#)

The best option for active explorers, this is an unusually friendly and fun inn, with 12 rooms and three cottages maintained by staff who love the outdoors. Some rooms have a patio overlooking a small creek; all have nice quilts and access to BBQ grills. It’s a 10-minute walk from downtown and there's a small unheated outdoor pool.

oBroad Street InnINN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-265-2239; www.broadstreetinn.com; 517 W Broad St; r $119-134; aW#)S

This six-room inn in the heart of town is a favorite because it keeps things simple. (No weird old dolls, no yellowing lace doilies.) The good-value rooms are modern, brightly but soothingly furnished and elegant. No breakfast served.

oNew Moon CafeCALIFORNIAN$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-265-6399; www.thenewmooncafe.com; 203 York St; dinner mains $23-38; h11:30am-2pm Tue-Fri, 5-8:30pm Tue-Sun)S

Pure elegance, Peter Selaya’s organic- and local-ingredient menu changes with the seasons. If you visit during spring or summer, go for the line-caught fish or the house-made, moon-shaped fresh ravioli. The wine list is excellent.

Southern Mines

The towns of the Southern Mines – from Placerville to Sonora – receive less traffic and their dusty streets have a whiff of Wild West, today evident in the motley crew of Harley riders and gold prospectors (still!) who populate them. Some, like Plymouth (ol’ Pokerville), Volcano and Mokelumne Hill, are virtual ghost towns, slowly crumbling into photogenic oblivion. Others, like Sutter Creek, Murphys and Angels Camp, are gussied-up showpieces of Victorian Americana. Get off the beaten path at family-run vineyards and subterranean caverns, where geological wonders reward those who first navigate the touristy gift shops above ground.

A short detour off Hwy 49, Columbia State Historic Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; %209-588-9128; www.parks.ca.gov; Main St; hmost businesses 10am-5pm; pc) preserves blocks of authentic 1850s buildings complete with shopkeepers and street musicians in period costumes. Also near Sonora, Railtown 1897 State Historic Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; %209-984-3953; www.railtown1897.org; 10501 Reservoir Rd, Jamestown; adult/child $5/3, incl train ride $15/10; h9:30am-4:30pm Apr-Oct, 10am-3pm Nov-Mar, train rides 10:30am-3pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct; pc) offers excursion trains through the surrounding hills where Hollywood Westerns including High Noon have been filmed.

4Sleeping & Eating

Lacy B&Bs, cafes and ice-cream parlors are found in nearly every town. Sonora, about an hour’s drive from Yosemite National Park, and Placerville have the most motels.

oImperial HotelB&B$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %209-267-9172; www.imperialamador.com; 14202 Hwy 49, Amador City; r $110-155, ste $125-195; aW)

Built in 1879, this is one of the area’s most inventive updates to the typical antique-cluttered hotel, with sleek art-deco touches accenting the warm red brick, a genteel bar and a very good, seasonally minded restaurant (dinner mains $14 to $30). On weekends and holidays, expect a two-night minimum.

Union InnHISTORIC HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %209-296-7711; www.volcanounion.com; 21375 Consolation St; r $130-150; pnaW)

The more comfortable of the two historic hotels in Volcano: there are four lovingly updated rooms with crooked floors, two with street-facing balconies. Flat-screen TVs and modern touches are a bit incongruous in the old building, but it’s a cozy place to stay. The on-site Union Pub ( GOOGLE MAP ; %209-296-7711; www.volcanounion.com; 21375 Consolation St; mains $10-30; h5-8pm Mon & Thu, to 9pm Fri, noon-9pm Sat, noon-8pm Sun) has the best food in town and a lovely patio garden.

City HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %information 209-532-1479, reservations 800-444-7275; www.reserveamerica.com; 22768 Main St; r $85-115; pnaW)

Among a handful of restored Victorian hotels in the area, City Hotel is the most elegant, with rooms that overlook a shady stretch of Main St. Adjoining the on-site restaurant Christopher's at the City Hotel (mains $10 to $30), What Cheer Saloon is an atmospheric Gold Country joint with oil paintings of lusty ladies and striped wallpaper.

Farm Table RestaurantMEDITERRANEAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-295-8140; https://ourfarmtable.com; 311 Main St; sandwiches from $8, mains from $14; h11am-5pm Mon, 11am-8pm Wed, 11am-9pm Thu-Sat, 9am-5pm Sun; v)

A lovely deli-style place dishing up well-cooked farm-fresh food with a Mediterranean feel, alongside homespun fare such as rabbit pot pie. It specializes in charcuterie and preserving, and has plenty of gluten-free and veggie options on the menu too.

Northern Mountains

Remote, empty and eerily beautiful, these are some of California’s least visited wild lands, an endless show of geological wonders, clear lakes, rushing rivers and high desert. The major peaks – Lassen, Shasta and the Trinity Alps – have few geological features in common, but all offer backcountry camping under starry skies.

Redding to Mt Shasta

Much of the drive north of Redding is dominated by Mt Shasta, a 14,180ft snowcapped goliath at the southern end of the volcanic Cascades Range. It arises dramatically, fueling the anticipation felt by mountaineers who seek to climb its slopes.

Don’t believe the tourist brochures: Redding, the region’s largest city, is a snooze. The best reason to detour off I-5 is the Sundial Bridge, a glass-bottomed pedestrian marvel designed by Spanish neofuturist architect Santiago Calatrava. It spans the Sacramento River at Turtle Bay Exploration Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-887-8532; www.turtlebay.org; 844 Sundial Bridge Dr; adult/child $16/12, after 3:30pm $11/7; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, from 10am Sun, closes 1hr earlier Nov–mid-Mar; c), a kid-friendly science and nature center with botanical gardens. Six miles west of Redding along Hwy 299, explore a genuine gold-rush town at Shasta State Historic Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; %520-243-8194; www.parks.ca.gov; 15312 CA 299; museum entry adult/child $3/2; h10am-5pm Thu-Sun). Two miles further west, Whiskeytown National Recreation Area ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-246-1225; www.nps.gov/whis; Hwy 299 at JFK Memorial Dr, Whiskeytown; h10am-4pm) harbors Whiskeytown Lake, with sandy beaches, waterfall hikes and watersports and camping opportunities. In sleepy Weaverville, another 35 miles further west, Joss House State Historic Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-623-5284; www.parks.ca.gov; 630 Main St; tour adult/child $4/2; htours hourly 10am-4pm Thu-Sun; p) preserves an ornate 1874 Chinese immigrant temple.

North of Redding, I-5 crosses deep-blue Shasta Lake, California’s biggest reservoir, formed by colossal Shasta Dam ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-275-4463; www.usbr.gov/mp/ncao/shasta-dam.html; 16349 Shasta Dam Blvd; hvisitor center 8am-5pm, tours 9am, 11am, 1pm & 3pm; pc) and ringed by houseboat marinas and RV campgrounds. High in the limestone megaliths on the lake’s northern side are prehistoric Lake Shasta Caverns ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-238-2341, 800-795-2283; www.lakeshastacaverns.com; 20359 Shasta Caverns Rd, Lakehead; 2hr tour adult/child 3-15yr $26/15; htours every 30min 9am-4pm late May-early Sep, hourly 9am-3pm Apr-late May & early-late Sep,10am, noon & 2pm Oct-Mar; pc), where tours include a catamaran ride.

Another 35 miles north on I-5, Dunsmuir is a teeny historic railroad town with vibrant art galleries inhabiting a quaint downtown district. Six miles south off I-5, Castle Crags State Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-235-2684; www.parks.ca.gov; per car $8; hsunrise-sunset) shelters forested campsites ( GOOGLE MAP ; %reservations 800-444-7275; www.reserveamerica.com; tent & RV sites $15-30). Be awed by stunning views of Mt Shasta from the top of the park’s hardy 5.6-mile round-trip Crags Trail.

Nine miles north of Dunsmuir, Mt Shasta city lures climbers, new-age hippies and back-to-nature types, all of whom revere the majestic mountain looming overhead. Usually open and snow-free beyond Bunny Flat from June until October, Everitt Memorial Hwy ascends the mountain to a perfect sunset-watching perch at almost 8000ft – simply head east from town on Lake St and keep going. For experienced mountaineers, climbing the peak above 10,000ft requires a Summit Pass ($25), available from Mt Shasta Ranger Station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-926-4511; www.fs.usda.gov/stnf; 204 W Alma St; h8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri), which has weather reports and sells topgraphic maps. Stop by downtown’s Fifth Season ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-926-3606; http://thefifthseason.com; 300 N Mt Shasta Blvd; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, from 8am Sat, 10am-5pm Sun) outdoor-gear shop for equipment rentals. Shasta Mountain Guides ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-926-3117; http://shastaguides.com; 2-day climbs from $625 per person) offers mountaineering trips (from $550).

4Sleeping

Roadside motels are abundant, including in Mt Shasta city. Redding has the most chain lodgings, clustered near major highways. Campgrounds are abundant, especially on public lands.

oShasta MountInnB&B$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-926-1810; www.shastamountinn.com; 203 Birch St; r $150-175; pnW)

Only antique on the outside, this bright Victorian 1904 farmhouse is all relaxed minimalism, bold colors and graceful decor on the inside. Each airy room has a great bed and exquisite views of the luminous mountain. Enjoy the expansive garden, wraparound deck, outdoor hot tub and sauna. Not relaxed enough yet? Chill on the perfectly placed porch swings.

oMcCloud River Mercantile HotelINN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-964-2330; www.mccloudmercantile.com; 241 Main St; r $129-250; pnW)

Stroll upstairs to the 2nd floor of McCloud’s central Mercantile Hotel and try not to fall in love; it’s all high ceilings, exposed brick and a perfect marriage of preservationist class and modern panache. Antique-furnished rooms have open-floor plans. Guests are greeted with fresh flowers and can drift to sleep on feather beds after soaking in claw-foot tubs.

Railroad Park ResortINN, CAMPGROUND$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-235-4440; www.rrpark.com; 100 Railroad Park Rd; tent/RV sites from $29/37, d $135-165; aWs#)

About 2 miles south of town, off I-5, visitors can spend the night inside refitted vintage railroad cars and cabooses. The grounds are fun for kids, who can run around the engines and plunge in a centrally situated pool. The deluxe boxcars are furnished with antiques and claw-foot tubs, although the cabooses are simpler and a bit less expensive.

5Eating & Drinking

oDunsmuir Brewery WorksPUB FOOD$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-235-1900; www.dunsmuirbreweryworks.com; 5701 Dunsmuir Ave; mains $9-13; h11am-10pm May-Sep, to 9pm Tue-Sun Oct-Apr; W)

It’s hard to describe this little microbrew pub without veering into hyperbole. Start with the beer: the crisp ales and porter are perfectly balanced and the IPA is apparently pretty good too, because patrons are always drinking it dry. Soak it up with awesome bar food: a warm potato salad, bratwurst, or a thick Angus or perfect veggie nut burger.

Berryvale GroceryMARKET, CAFE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-926-1576; www.berryvale.com; 305 S Mt Shasta Blvd; cafe items from $5; hstore 8am-8pm, cafe to 7pm; vc)S

This market sells groceries and organic produce to health-conscious eaters. The excellent cafe serves good coffee, fresh juices and an array of tasty – mostly veggie – salads, sandwiches and wraps.

oCafé MaddalenaEUROPEAN, NORTH AFRICAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-235-2725; www.cafemaddalena.com; 5801 Sacramento Ave; mains $15-26; h5-9pm Thu-Sun Feb-Dec)

Simple and elegant, this cafe put Dunsmuir on the foodie map. The menu was designed by chef Brett LaMott (of Trinity Cafe fame) and changes seasonally to feature dishes from southern Europe and northern Africa. Some highlights include pan-roasted king salmon with basil cream, wild mushroom soup or sautéed rabbit with carrots and morel sauce.

Seven Suns Coffee & CafeCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; 1011 S Mt Shasta Blvd; h5:30am-7pm; W)

This snug little hangout serves organic, locally roasted coffee, light meals (around $10) and is consistently busy. There’s live acoustic music some evenings.

8Getting There & Around

Greyhound (www.greyhound.com) buses heading north and south on I-5 stop at the depot (628 S Weed Blvd) in Weed, 8 miles north of Mt Shasta city on I-5. Services include Redding ($15, one hour and 20 minutes, three daily), Sacramento ($40, 5½ hours, three daily) and San Francisco ($50, 10½ hours, two or three times daily).

The STAGE bus ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-842-8295; www.co.siskiyou.ca.us; 914 Pine St; fares $2.50-8) includes Mt Shasta City in its local I-5 corridor route (fares $2.50 to $8, depending on distance), which also serves McCloud, Dunsmuir, Weed and Yreka several times each weekday. Other buses connect at Yreka.

Northeast Corner

Site of California’s last major Native American conflict and a half-million years of volcanic destruction, Lava Beds National Monument ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-667-8113; www.nps.gov/labe; 1 Indian Well HQ, Tulelake; 7-day entry per car $15; pc) is a peaceful monument to centuries of turmoil. This park’s got it all: lava flows, cinder and spatter cones, volcanic craters and amazing lava tubes. It was the site of the Modoc War, and ancient Native American petroglyphs are etched into rocks and pictographs painted on cave walls. Pick up info and maps at the visitor center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-667-8113; www.nps.gov/labe; Tulelake; h8am-6pm late May-early Sep, to 5pm mid-Sep–mid-May), which sells basic spelunking gear (borrow flashlights for free). Nearby is the park’s basic campground ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nps.gov/labe/planyourvisit/campgrounds.htm; tent & RV sites $10; #), where drinking water is available.

Over 20 miles northeast of the park, the dusty town of Tulelake off Hwy 139 has basic motels, roadside diners and gas. Comprising six separate refuges in California and Oregon, Klamath Basin National Wildlife Refuge Complex is a prime stopover on the Pacific Flyway and an important wintering site for bald eagles. When the spring and fall migrations peak, more than a million birds can fill the sky. The visitor center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-667-2231; www.klamathbasinrefuges.fws.gov; 4009 Hill Rd, Tulelake; h8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun) is off Hwy 161, about 4 miles south of the Oregon border. Self-guided 10-mile auto tours of the Lower Klamath and Tule Lake refuges provide excellent birding opportunities. Paddle the Upper Klamath refuge’s 9.5-mile canoe trail by launching from Rocky Point Resort ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-356-2287; 28121 Rocky Point Rd, Klamath Falls, OR; canoe & kayak rental per hour/half-day/day $20/45/60; hApr-Oct; c#). For gas, food and lodging, drive into Klamath Falls, OR, off Hwy 97.

Quietly impressive Lassen Volcanic National Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-595-4480; www.nps.gov/lavo; 38050 Hwy 36 E, Mineral; 7-day entry per car mid-Apr–Nov $20, Dec–mid-Apr $10; pc) has hydrothermal sulfur pools, boiling mud pots and steaming pools, as glimpsed from the Bumpass Hell boardwalk. Tackle Lassen Peak (10,457ft), the world’s largest plug-dome volcano, on a strenuous, but non-technical 5-mile roundtrip trail. The park has two entrances: an hour’s drive east of Redding off Hwy 44, near popular Manzanita Lake Campground ( GOOGLE MAP ; %reservations 877-444-6777; www.recreation.gov; tent & RV sites $15-24; #); and a 40-minute drive northwest of Lake Almanor off Hwy 89, by the Kom Yah-mah-nee Visitor Facility ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-595-4480; www.nps.gov/lavo; h9am-5pm, closed Mon & Tue Nov-Mar; c) Hwy 89 through the park is typically snow free and open to cars from June though October.

Sierra Nevada

The mighty Sierra Nevada – baptized the ‘Range of Light’ by poet-naturalist John Muir – is California’s backbone. This 400-mile phalanx of craggy peaks, chiseled and gouged by glaciers and erosion, both welcomes and challenges outdoor-sports enthusiasts. Cradling three national parks (Yosemite, Sequoia and Kings Canyon), the Sierra is a spellbinding wonderland of superlative wilderness, boasting the contiguous USA’s highest peak (Mt Whitney), North America’s tallest waterfall (Yosemite Falls) and the world’s oldest and biggest trees (ancient bristlecone pines and giant sequoias, respectively).

Yosemite National Park

There’s a reason why everybody’s heard of it: the granite-peak heights are dizzying, the mist from thunderous waterfalls drenching, the Technicolor wildflower meadows amazing and the majestic silhouettes of El Capitan and Half Dome almost shocking against a crisp blue sky. It’s a landscape of dreams, surrounding oh-so-small people on all sides.

Crowds can be an issue in summer holidays: try to go in a shoulder season, start early and walk to escape the throng.

1Sights

There are four main entrances to the park ($25-30 per vehicle, depending on the season): South Entrance (Hwy 41), Arch Rock (Hwy 140), Big Oak Flat (Hwy 120 W) and Tioga Pass (Hwy 120 E). Hwy 120 traverses the park as Tioga Rd, connecting Yosemite Valley with the Eastern Sierra.

1Yosemite Valley

From the ground up, this dramatic valley cut by the meandering Merced River is song inspiring: rippling green meadow-grass; stately pines; cool, impassive pools reflecting looming granite monoliths; and cascading ribbons of glacially-cold white water. Often overrun and traffic-choked, Yosemite Village is home to the park’s main visitor center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %209-372-0200; 9035 Village Dr, Yosemite Village; h9am-5pm; c), museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nps.gov/yose; 9037 Village Dr, Yosemite Village; h9am-5pm summer, 10am-4pm rest of year, often closed noon-1pm), photography gallery, movie theater, general store and many more services. Curry Village is another valley hub, offering public showers and outdoor-equipment rental and sales, including camping gear.

Spring snowmelt turns the valley’s famous waterfalls into thunderous cataracts; most are reduced to a mere trickle by late summer. Yosemite Falls is North America’s tallest, dropping 2425ft in three tiers. A wheelchair-accessible trail leads to the bottom of this cascade or, for solitude and different perspectives, you can trek the grueling trail to the top (6.8 miles round-trip). No less impressive are other waterfalls around the valley. A strenuous granite staircase beside Vernal Fall leads you, gasping, right to the waterfall’s edge for a vertical view – look for rainbows in the clouds of mist.

You can’t ignore the valley’s monumental El Capitan (7569ft), an El Dorado for rock climbers. Toothed Half Dome (8842ft) soars above the valley as Yosemite’s spiritual centerpiece. The classic panoramic photo op is at Tunnel View on Hwy 41 as you drive into the valley.

1Glacier Point

Rising over 3000ft above the valley floor, dramatic Glacier Point (7214ft) practically puts you at eye level with Half Dome. It’s at least an hour’s drive from Yosemite Valley up Glacier Point Rd (usually open from May into November) off Hwy 41, or a strenuous hike along the Four Mile Trail (actually 4.6 miles, one way) or the less-crowded, waterfall-strewn Panorama Trail (8.5 miles one way). To hike one way downhill from Glacier Point, reserve a seat on the Glacier Point Hikers' Bus ( GOOGLE MAP ; %888-413-8869; 1 way/return $25/49; hmid-May–Oct).

1Wawona

At Wawona, an hour’s drive south of Yosemite Valley, drop by the Pioneer Yosemite History Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %209-372-0200; www.nps.gov/yose; Wawona; rides adult/child $5/4; h24hr, rides Wed-Sun Jun-Sep; pc), with its covered bridge, historic buildings and horsedrawn stagecoach rides. Further south stands towering Mariposa Grove, home of the Grizzly Giant and other giant sequoia trees. Free shuttle buses usually run to the grove from spring through fall.

1Tuolumne Meadows

A 90-minute drive from Yosemite Valley, high-altitude Tuolumne Meadows (pronounced twol-uh-mee) draws hikers, backpackers and climbers to the park’s northern wilderness. The Sierra Nevada’s largest subalpine meadow (8600ft) is a vivid contrast to the valley, with wildflower fields, azure lakes, ragged granite peaks, polished domes and cooler temperatures. Hikers and climbers have a paradise of options, and lake swimming and picnicking are also popular. Access is via scenic Tioga Rd (Hwy 120), which is only open seasonally. West of Tuolumne Meadows and Tenaya Lake, stop at Olmsted Point for epic vistas of Half Dome.

1Hetch Hetchy

A 40-mile drive northwest of Yosemite Valley, it’s the site of perhaps the most controversial dam in US history. Despite not existing in its natural state, Hetch Hetchy Valley remains pretty and mostly crowd free. A 5.4-mile round-trip hike across the dam and through a tunnel to the base of Wapama Falls lets you get thrillingly close to an avalanche of water crashing down into the sparkling reservoir.

TIOGA PASS

Hwy 120 is the only road connecting Yosemite National Park with the Eastern Sierra, climbing through Tioga Pass (9945ft). Most maps mark this road ‘closed in winter’ which, while literally true, is also misleading. Tioga Rd is usually closed from the first heavy snowfall in October or November, not reopening until May or June. Call 209-372-0200 or check www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/conditions.htm for current road conditions.

2Activities

With more than 800 miles of varied hiking trails, you’re spoiled for choice. Easy valley-floor routes can get jammed – escape the teeming masses by heading up. Other diversions include rock climbing, cycling, trail rides, swimming, rafting and cross-country skiing.

For overnight backpacking trips, wilderness permits (from $10) are required year round. A quota system limits the number of hikers leaving daily from each trailhead. Make reservations up to 26 weeks in advance, or try your luck at the Yosemite Valley Wilderness Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %209-372-0745; Yosemite Village; h8am-5pm May-Oct) or another permit-issuing station, starting at 11am on the day before you aim to hike.

Yosemite Mountaineering SchoolCLIMBING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %209-372-8344; www.travelyosemite.com; Half Dome Village; hApr-Oct)

Offers top-flight instruction for novice to advanced climbers, plus guided climbs, equipment rental and bouldering instruction. Operating since the 1960s.

CAMPING IN YOSEMITE

From mid-March through mid-October or November, many park campgrounds accept or require reservations, which are available starting five months in advance. Campsites routinely sell out online within minutes. All campgrounds have bear-proof lockers and campfire rings; most have potable water.

In summer most campgrounds are noisy and booked to bulging, especially North Pines ( GOOGLE MAP ; tent & RV sites $26; hApr-Oct; #), Lower Pines ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nps.gov/yose; tent & RV sites $26; hApr-Oct; #) and Upper Pines ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nps.gov/yose; tent & RV sites $26; hyear-round; #) in Yosemite Valley; Tuolumne Meadows ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nps.gov/yose; Tioga Rd; tent & RV sites $26; hJul-Sep; #) off Tioga Rd; and riverside Wawona ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nps.gov/yose; Wawona; tent & RV sites $26; hyear-round; #).

Year-round the following are all first-come, first served: Camp 4 ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nps.gov/yose; shared tent sites per person $6; hyear-round), a rock climber’s hangout in the valley; Bridalveil Creek ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nps.gov/yose; tent & RV sites $18; hJul-early Sep; #), off Glacier Point Rd; and White Wolf ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nps.gov/yose; tent & RV sites $18; hJul-early Sep; #), off Tioga Rd. They often fill before noon, especially on weekends.

Looking for a quieter, more rugged experience? Try the primitive campgrounds (no potable water) off Tioga Rd at Tamarack Flat ( GOOGLE MAP ; Old Big Oak Flat Rd; tent sites $12; hlate Jun-Sep; #), Yosemite Creek ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nps.gov/yose; tent sites $12; hJul-early Sep; #) and Porcupine Flat ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nps.gov/yose; tent & RV sites $12; hJul–mid-Oct; #), all first-come, first-served.

4Sleeping

Camping, even if it's car camping in a campground near busy Yosemite Village, enhances the being-out-in-nature feeling. Backcountry wilderness camping is for the prepared and adventurous. All noncamping reservations within the park are handled by Aramark/Yosemite Hospitality (%888-413-8869; www.travelyosemite.com) and can be made up to 366 days in advance; reservations are critical from May to early September. Rates – and demand – drop from October to April.

Yosemite Valley LodgeMOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %reservations 888-413-8869; www.travelyosemite.com; 9006 Yosemite Lodge Dr, Yosemite Valley; r from $260; pniWs)S

Situated a short walk from Yosemite Falls, this large complex contains a wide range of eateries, a lively bar, a big pool and other handy amenities. The rooms, spread out over 15 buildings, feel somewhat lodge-like, with rustic wooden furniture and striking nature photography. All have cable TV, telephone, fridge and coffeemaker, and great patio or balcony panoramas.

May Lake High Sierra CampCABIN$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %888-413-8869; www.travelyosemite.com; adult/child $175/90)

Because it's the easiest of the High Sierra camps to access, May Lake is also the best for children – at least those who'll be untroubled by the mile-plus hike to get there. Views of Mt Hoffman are quite stunning. Breakfast and dinner included in rates.

oMajestic Yosemite HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %reservations 888-413-8869; www.travelyosemite.com; 1 Ahwahnee Dr, Yosemite Valley; r/ste from $480/590; pniWs)

The crème de la crème of Yosemite’s lodging, this sumptuous historic property (formerly called the Ahwahnee) dazzles with soaring ceilings and atmospheric lounges with mammoth stone fireplaces. Classic rooms have inspiring views of Glacier Point and (partial) Half Dome. Cottages are scattered on the immaculately trimmed lawn next to the hotel. For high season and holidays, book a year in advance.

4Outside Yosemite

Gateway towns that have a mixed bag of motels, hotels, lodges and B&Bs include Fish Camp, Oakhurst, El Portal, Midpines, Mariposa, Groveland and, in the Eastern Sierra, Lee Vining.

oYosemite Bug Rustic Mountain ResortHOSTEL, CABIN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %209-966-6666; www.yosemitebug.com; 6979 Hwy 140, Midpines; dm $30, tent cabins from $65, r with/without bath from $165/95; pniW)S

This folksy oasis is tucked away on a forested hillside about 25 miles west of Yosemite. A wide range of accommodations types lines the narrow ridges; some require more walking from parking areas and bathrooms than others. The June Bug Cafe ( GOOGLE MAP ; %206-966-6666; www.yosemitebug.com/cafe.html; Yosemite Bug Rustic Mountain Resort, 6979 Hwy 140, Midpines; mains $8-22; h7-10am, 11am-2pm & 6-9pm; vc) is highly recommended. Also available are yoga lessons, massages and a spa with hot tub.

oEvergreen LodgeCABIN$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %209-379-2606; www.evergreenlodge.com; 33160 Evergreen Rd, Groveland; tents $90-125, cabins $180-415; husually closed Jan–mid-Feb; pnaiWs)S

Outside Yosemite National Park near the entrance to Hetch Hetchy, this classic, nearly century-old resort consists of lovingly decorated and comfy cabins (each with its own cache of board games) spread among the trees. Accommodations run from rustic to deluxe, and all cabins have private porches without distracting phone or TV. Roughing-it guests can cheat with comfy, prefurnished tents.

8Information

Yosemite’s entrance fee is $30 per vehicle or $15 for those on a bicycle or on foot and is valid for seven consecutive days. Passes are sold (you can use cash, checks, traveler's checks or credit/debit cards) at the various entrance stations, as well as at visitor centers in Oakhurst, Groveland, Mariposa and Lee Vining.

Yosemite Valley Visitor Center Park's busiest information desk. Shares space with bookstore run by Yosemite Conservancy and part of the museum complex in the center of Yosemite Village.

8Getting There & Around

AGreyhound buses and Amtrak trains serve Merced, west of the park, where they are met by buses operated by the Yosemite Area Regional Transportation System (YARTS; %877-989-2787; www.yarts.com); you can buy Amtrak tickets that include the YARTS segment all the way into the park. One-way tickets to Yosemite Valley are $13 ($9 child and senior, three hours) from Merced and $18 ($15 child and senior, 3½ hours) from Mammoth Lakes; fares include the park-entrance fee, making them a super bargain, and drivers accept credit cards.

The free, air-conditioned Yosemite Valley Shuttle Bus (www.nps.gov/yose) is a comfortable and efficient way of traveling around the park. Buses operate year-round at frequent intervals and stop at 21 numbered locations, including parking lots, campgrounds, trailheads and lodges.

Bicycling is an ideal way to take in Yosemite Valley. You can rent a wide-handled cruiser (per hour/day $11.50/32) or a bike with an attached child trailer (per hour/day $19/59) at the Yosemite Valley Lodge ( GOOGLE MAP ) or Half Dome Village ( GOOGLE MAP ; per hr/day $12.50/30.50; h9am-6pm Mar-Oct). Strollers and wheelchairs are also rented here.

Valley visitors are advised to park and take advantage of the Yosemite Valley Shuttle Bus. Even so, traffic in the valley can feel like rush hour in LA. Glacier Point and Tioga Rds are closed in winter.

Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks

In these neighboring parks, giant sequoia trees are bigger – up to 27 stories high! – and more numerous than anywhere else in the Sierra Nevada. Tough and fire-charred, they’d easily swallow two freeway lanes each. Giant, too, are the mountains – including Mt Whitney (14,505ft), the tallest peak in the lower 48 states. Finally, there is the deep Kings Canyon, carved out of granite by ancient glaciers and a powerful river. For quiet, solitude and close-up sightings of wildlife, including black bears, hit the trails and lose yourself in this stunning wilderness.

1Sights

The two parks ( GOOGLE MAP ; %559-565-3341; www.nps.gov/seki; 7-day entry per car $30; pc), though distinct, are operated as one unit with a single admission fee; for 24-hour recorded information, including road conditions, call the number listed or visit the parks’ comprehensive website. At either entrance station (Big Stump or Ash Mountain), you’ll receive an NPS map and a copy of the parks’ Guide newspaper, with information on seasonal activities, camping and special programs, including those in the surrounding national forests and the Giant Sequoia National Monument ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.fs.usda.gov). It's easy enough to explore sections of both parks in a single day.

1Sequoia National Park

We dare you to try hugging the trees in Giant Forest, a 3-sq-mile grove protecting gargantuan specimens – the world’s largest is the General Sherman Tree. With sore arms and sticky sap fingers, lose the crowds on a network of forested hiking trails (bring a map).

Worth a detour is Mineral King Valley, a late-19th-century mining and logging camp ringed by craggy peaks and alpine lakes. The 25-mile one-way scenic drive – navigating almost 700 white-knuckle hairpin turns – is usually open from late May until late October.

Giant Forest MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %559-565-4480; www.nps.gov/seki; cnr Generals Hwy & Crescent Meadow Rd; h9am-4:30pm; pc)SF

For a primer on the intriguing ecology and history of giant sequoias, this pint-sized modern museum will entertain both kids and adults. Hands-on exhibits teach about the life stages of these big trees, which can live for over 3000 years, and the fire cycle that releases their seeds and allows them to sprout on bare soil. The museum is housed in a historic 1920s building designed by Gilbert Stanley Underwood, famed architect of the Majestic Yosemite (formerly Ahwahnee) Hotel.

Crystal CaveCAVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.explorecrystalcave.com; Crystal Cave Rd; tours adult/child/youth from $16/5/8; hMay-Sep; pc)S

Discovered in 1918 by two parks employees who were going fishing, this unique cave was carved by an underground river and has marble formations estimated to be 10,000 years old. Tickets for the 50-minute introductory tour are only sold online in advance or, during October and November, at the Giant Forest Museum and Foothills Visitor Center, not at the cave. Bring a jacket.

1Kings Canyon National Park & Scenic Byway

Just north of Grant Grove Village, General Grant Grove brims with majestic giants. Beyond, Hwy 180 begins its 30-mile descent into Kings Canyon, serpentining past chiseled rock walls laced with waterfalls. The road meets the Kings River, its roar ricocheting off granite cliffs soaring over 8000ft high, making this one of North America’s deepest canyons.

At the bottom of the canyon, Cedar Grove is the last outpost before the rugged grandeur of the Sierra Nevada backcountry begins. A popular day hike climbs 4.6 miles one way to gushing Mist Falls from Roads End. A favorite of birders, an easy 1.5-mile nature trail loops around Zumwalt Meadow, just west of Roads End. Watch for lumbering black bears and springy mule deer.

The scenic byway past Hume Lake to Cedar Grove Village is usually closed from mid-November to late April.

Boyden CavernCAVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %209-736-2708, 866-762-2837; www.caverntours.com/BoydenRt.htm; Hwy 180; tours adult/child from $17.50/9.50; hlate Apr–Sep; c)

Touring the beautiful and fantastical formations here requires no advance tickets: just show up for the basic 45-minute tour, which departs hourly from 10am to 5pm during peak summer season. Reaching the entrance requires a short walk up a steep, paved grade. The cavern was closed for much of 2016 and 2017 because of fire damage to a footbridge; check before you visit to make sure it's open.

DON'T MISS

SUPERSIZED FORESTS

When it’s time to pay your respects to the most massive trees on the planet, there’s nowhere better to go than Sequoia National Park. Giant sequoias (Sequoiadendron giganteum) can live for almost 3000 years, and some of the ancient ones standing in the Giant Forest have been around since the fall of the Roman Empire. There the world's largest living specimen, the General Sherman Tree ( GOOGLE MAP ; c), is taller than a 27-story building and measures over 100ft around its massive trunk – crane your neck as you stare in awe at its leafy crown.

2Activities

With over 850 miles of marked trails, the parks are a backpacker’s dream. Cedar Grove and Mineral King offer the best backcountry access. Trails are usually open by mid- to late May.

Over 850 miles of maintained trails await your footsteps in both national parks. From sun-bleached granite peaks soaring above alpine lakes, to wildflower-strewn meadows and gushing waterfalls, it’s backpacking heaven. Mineral King, Lodgepole and Cedar Grove offer the best backcountry trail access, while the Jennie Lakes Wilderness in the Sequoia National Forest boasts pristine meadows and lakes at lower elevations.

Park-approved bear-proof food canisters, which are always recommended, are mandatory in some places (eg Rae Lakes Loop). Rent bear canisters at park visitor centers and trailhead ranger stations (from $5 per trip) or at the Lodgepole, Grant Grove and Cedar Grove Village markets (price varies, but they typically cost more here). To prevent wildfires, campfires are only allowed in existing campfire rings in some backcountry areas.

Sequoia Parks Conservancy (www.sequoiaparksconservancy.org) sells topographic maps at park visitor centers and wilderness permit-issuing stations. Highly recommended are the conservancy's Rae Lakes Loop Trail Map ($8.95) and the Tom Harrison Maps series, all printed on waterproof, tear-resistant paper.

4Sleeping & Eating

Camping is the best and most affordable way to experience the parks, though of course sites fill up fast in high season. Sequoia National Forest and other wilderness areas that border the parks offer alternatives. Sequoia has only one official in-park lodging option: Wuksachi Lodge ( GOOGLE MAP ; %information 866-807-3598, reservations 317-324-0753; www.visitsequoia.com; 64740 Wuksachi Way; r $215-290; pnW#). The gateway town of Three Rivers, just outside the park entrance, offers the most accommodations. Kings Canyon has lodges in Grant Grove and Cedar Grove villages.

The few park lodges – Wuksachi, John Muir ( GOOGLE MAP ; %866-807-3598; www.visitsequoia.com; Grant Grove Village; r from $225; pnW) and Cedar Grove – have restaurants, as do a couple of spots in the adjoining Sequoia National Forest. Three Rivers, just south of Sequoia, is a good place to fill up.

NPS & USFS CampgroundsACCOMMODATION SERVICES$

(%877-444-6777, 518-885-3639; www.recreation.gov)

Reservation service for many of the campgrounds in the parks.

DNC Parks & ResortsACCOMMODATION SERVICES$$

(%866-807-3598, 801-559-4930; www.visitsequoia.com)

Delaware North is the concessionaire operating lodges and other services in Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks.

Cedar Grove LodgeLODGE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %559-565-3096; www.visitsequoia.com; 86724 Hwy 180, Cedar Grove Village; r from $130; hmid-May–mid-Oct; pnaW)

The only indoor sleeping option in the canyon, this riverside lodge offers 21 unexciting motel-style rooms. A recent remodel has updated some of the frumpy decor. Three ground-floor rooms with shady furnished patios have spiffy river views and kitchenettes. All rooms have phone and TV.

oSequoia High Sierra CampCABIN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %866-654-2877; www.sequoiahighsierracamp.com; tent cabins without bath incl all meals adult/child $250/150; hmid-Jun–mid-Sep)

A mile's hike deep into the Sequoia National Forest, this off-the-grid, all-inclusive resort is nirvana for those who don’t think luxury camping is an oxymoron. Canvas bungalows are spiffed up with pillow-top mattresses, feather pillows and cozy wool rugs. Restrooms and a shower house are shared. Reservations are required, and there's usually a two-night minimum stay.

8Information

Lodgepole Village and Grant Grove Village are the parks’ main commercial hubs. Both have visitor centers, post offices, markets, ATMs, a coin-op laundry and public showers (summer only). Expensive gas is available at Hume Lake (year-round) and Stony Creek (closed in winter) outside the parks on national-forest land.

The following visitor centres are open year-round:

Kings Canyon Visitor Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %559-565-4307; Hwy 180, Grant Grove Village; h9am-5pm) In the Grant Grove Village of Kings Canyon.

Lodgepole Visitor Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %559-565-4436; Lodgepole Village; h7am-5pm late Apr-early Oct, to 7pm peak season) Located in the heart of Sequoia.

8Getting There & Around

You can use Fresno to connect to Grant Grove in Kings Canyon with Big Trees Transit (%800-325-7433; www.bigtreestransit.com; round-trip incl park entry fee $15; hlate May-early Sep), or the Sequoia Shuttle (%877-287-4453; www.sequoiashuttle.com; hlate May-late Sep) (summer only) to get between Visalia and the Giant Forest area of Sequoia.

Sequoia and Kings Canyon are both accessible by car only from the west, via Hwy 99 from Fresno or Visalia.

Sequoia National Park has five free shuttle routes within the park; Kings Canyon has no shuttles.

Eastern Sierra

Vast, empty and majestic, here jagged peaks plummet down into the desert, a dramatic juxtaposition that creates a potent scenery cocktail. Hwy 395 runs the entire length of the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada, with turnoffs leading to pine forests, wildflower-strewn meadows, placid lakes, hot springs and glacier-gouged canyons. Hikers, backpackers, mountain bikers, fishers and skiers all find escapes here.

At Bodie State Historic Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; %760-647-6445; www.parks.ca.gov/bodie; Hwy 270; adult/child $8/4; h9am-6pm mid-Mar–Oct, to 4pm Nov–mid-Mar; pc), the weathered buildings of a gold-rush boomtown sit frozen in time on a dusty, windswept plain. To get there, head east for 13 miles (the last three unpaved) on Hwy 270, about 7 miles south of Bridgeport. Snow usually closes the access road in winter and early spring.

Further south at Mono Lake (www.monolake.org), unearthly tufa towers rise from the alkaline water like drip sand castles. Off Hwy 395, Mono Basin Scenic Area Visitor Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %760-647-3044; www.fs.usda.gov/inyo; 1 Visitor Center Dr; hgenerally 8am-5pm Apr-Nov; c) has excellent views and educational exhibits, but the best photo ops are from the mile-long nature trail at the South Tufa Area (adult/child $3/free). From the nearby town of Lee Vining, Hwy 120 heads west into Yosemite National Park via seasonal Tioga Pass.

Continuing south on Hwy 395, detour along the scenic 16-mile June Lake Loop or push on to Mammoth Lakes, a popular four-seasons resort guarded by 11,053ft Mammoth Mountain ( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-626-6684, 760-934-2571, 24hr snow report 888-766-9778; www.mammothmountain.com; adult/13-18yr/7-12yr $125/98/35; c), a top-notch skiing area. The slopes morph into a mountain-bike park in summer, when scenic gondola rides run. There’s also camping and day hiking around Mammoth Lakes Basin and Reds Meadow, the latter near the 60ft-high basalt columns of Devils Postpile National Monument ( GOOGLE MAP ; %760-934-2289; www.nps.gov/depo; shuttle day pass adult/child $7/4; hlate May-Oct), formed by volcanic activity. Hot-springs fans can soak in primitive pools off Benton Crossing Rd or view the geysering water at Hot Creek Geological Site, both off Hwy 395 southeast of town. The in-town Mammoth Lakes Welcome Center & Ranger Station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %760-924-5500, 888-466-2666; www.visitmammoth.com; 2510 Hwy 203; h9am-5pm) has helpful maps and information.

Further south, Hwy 395 descends into the Owens Valley. In frontier-flavored Bishop, Mountain Light Gallery ( GOOGLE MAP ; %760-873-7700; www.mountainlight.com; 106 S Main St; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-4pm Sun) and the historical Laws Railroad Museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; %760-873-5950; www.lawsmuseum.org; Silver Canyon Rd; donation $5; h10am-4pm; c) are minor attractions. A gateway for packhorse trips, Bishop accesses the Eastern Sierra’s best fishing and rock climbing. Budget a half-day for the thrilling drive up to the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest. These gnarled, otherworldly looking trees – the world’s oldest – are found above 10,000ft on the slopes of the White Mountains. The road (closed by snow in winter and early spring) is paved to the Schulman Grove Visitor Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %760-873-2500; www.fs.usda.gov/inyo; White Mountain Rd; per person/car $3/6; h10am-4pm Fri-Mon mid-May–early Nov), where hiking trails await. From Hwy 395 in Big Pine, take Hwy 168 east for 12 miles, then follow White Mountain Rd uphill for 10 miles.

Hwy 395 barrels south to Manzanar National Historic Site ( GOOGLE MAP ; %760-878-2194; www.nps.gov/manz; 5001 Hwy 395; h9am-5:30pm Apr–mid-Oct, 10am-4:30pm mid-Oct–Mar; pc), which memorializes the camp where some 10,000 Japanese Americans were unjustly interned during WWII. Further south in Lone Pine, you’ll finally glimpse Mt Whitney (14,505ft), the highest mountain in the lower 48 states. The heart-stopping, 12-mile scenic drive up Whitney Portal Road (closed in winter and early spring) is spectacular. Climbing the peak is hugely popular, but requires a permit (per person $15) awarded via annual lottery. Just south of town, the Eastern Sierra Interagency Visitor Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %760-876-6222; www.fs.fed.us/r5/inyo; cnr Hwys 395 & 136; h8am-5pm) issues wilderness permits, dispenses outdoor-recreation info and sells books and maps.

West of Lone Pine, the bizarrely shaped boulders of the Alabama Hills have enchanted filmmakers of Hollywood Westerns. Peruse vintage memorabilia and movie posters back in town at the Museum of Western Film History ( GOOGLE MAP ; %760-876-9909; www.museumofwesternfilmhistory.org; 701 S Main St; adult/under 12yr $5/free; h10am-6pm Mon-Wed, to 7pm Thu-Sat, to 4pm Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun Nov-Mar; pc).

4Sleeping

The Eastern Sierra is freckled with campgrounds; backcountry camping requires a wilderness permit, available at ranger stations. Bishop, Lone Pine and Bridgeport have the most motels. Mammoth Lakes has a few motels and hotels and dozens of inns, B&Bs, condos and vacation rentals. Reservations are essential everywhere in summer.

oWhitney Portal Hostel & HotelHOSTEL, MOTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %760-876-0030; www.whitneyportalstore.com; 238 S Main St; dm/d $25/85; aW#)

A popular launchpad for Mt Whitney trips and a locus of posthike washups (public showers are available), the Whitney has the cheapest beds in town – reserve dorms months ahead for July and August. There's no common space, just well-maintained single-sex bunk-bed rooms, though amenities include towels, TVs, in-room kitchenettes and stocked coffeemakers.

oInn at Benton Hot SpringsINN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %866-466-2824, 760-933-2287; www.historicbentonhotsprings.com; Hwy 120, Benton; tent & RV sites for 2 people $40-50, d with/without bath $129/109; aW#)

Soak in your own hot-springs tub and snooze beneath the moonlight at Benton Hot Springs, a small, historic resort in a 150-year-old former silver-mining town nestled in the White Mountains. Choose from nine well-spaced camp sites with private tubs or themed, antique-filled B&B rooms with semi-private tubs. Daytime dips ($10 per person per hour) are available. Reservations essential.

Dow Hotel & Dow Villa MotelHOTEL, MOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %760-876-5521; www.dowvillamotel.com; 310 S Main St; hotel r with/without bath from $89/70, motel r $117-158; pnaiWs#)

John Wayne and Errol Flynn are among the stars who have stayed at this venerable hotel. Built in 1922, the place has been restored but retains much of its rustic charm. The rooms in the newer motel section have air-con and are more comfortable and bright, but also more generic.

Tamarack LodgeLODGE, CABIN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-626-6684, 760-934-2442; www.tamaracklodge.com; 163 Twin Lakes Rd; r with/without bath from $199/149, cabins from $169; pniW)S

In business since 1924, this charming year-round resort on Lower Twin Lake has a cozy fireplace lodge, a bar and excellent restaurant, 11 rustic-style rooms and 35 cabins. The cabins range from very simple to simply deluxe, and come with full kitchen, private bathroom, porch and wood-burning stove. Some can sleep up to 10 people. Daily resort fee $20.

5Eating & Drinking

Alabama Hills CafeDINER$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %760-876-4675; 111 W Post St; mains $8-14; h7am-2pm; Wvc)

At everyone’s favorite breakfast joint, the portions are big, the bread is freshly baked, and the hearty soups, sandwiches and fruit pies make lunch an attractive option too. You can also plan your drive through the Alabama Hills ( GOOGLE MAP ) with the help of the map on the menu.

Mammoth TavernGASTROPUB$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %760-934-3902; www.mammothtavern.com; 587 Old Mammoth Rd; mains $13-28; h4-11pm Tue-Sun)

Mammoth Tavern hits the spot with comfort food like shepherd's pie, oysters, fondue and garlic-turkey meatballs. Gorgeous salads too. Warm lighting, wood-paneled walls rising to a circular ceiling, and drop-dead-gorgeous views of the snow-capped Sherwin Range mean the big-screen TVs are an unnecessary distraction. Drinks include tasty house cocktails, local drafts, interesting whiskeys and over two dozen wines by the glass.

oSkadiNORWEGIAN$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %760-914-0962; www.skadirestaurant.com; 94 Berner St; mains $30-38; h5-11pm Wed-Mon)

Considering its more-than-mundane location in an industrial strip, Skadi comes as a surprise. The Swiss Alps decor and innovative menu are the creation of chef Ian Algerøen, inspired by his Norwegian heritage and training in European fine-dining techniques. On the menu you'll find house-smoked trout with horseradish cream, Canadian duck breast with arctic lingonberries and pan-seared day-boat scallops. Reservations required.

oJune Lake BrewingMICROBREWERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.junelakebrewing.com; 131 S Crawford Ave; h11am-8pm Wed-Mon, to 9pm Fri & Sat; #)

A top regional draw, June Lake Brewing's open tasting room serves 10 drafts, including a 'SmoKin' Porter, Deer Beer Brown Ale and some awesome IPAs. Brewers swear the June Lake water makes all the difference. Flights are $4 to $6. Opens onto a small parking lot.

Mammoth Brewing CompanyBREWERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %760-934-7141; www.mammothbrewingco.com; 18 Lake Mary Rd; h10am-9:30pm Sun-Thu, to 10:30pm Fri & Sat)

You be the judge whether beer is brewed best at high altitude. Boasting the highest West Coast brewery, at 8000ft, Mammoth Brewing Company offers more than a dozen brews on tap (flights $5 to $7) – including special seasonal varieties not found elsewhere. Tasty bar food's available, and you can pick up some IPA 395 or Double Nut Brown to go.

Lake Tahoe

Shimmering in myriad shades of blue and green, Lake Tahoe is the USA’s second-deepest lake and, at 6255ft high, it is also one of the highest-elevation lakes in the country. Driving around the spellbinding 72-mile scenic shoreline will give you quite a workout behind the wheel. Generally, the north shore is quiet and upscale; the west shore, rugged and old-timey; the east shore, undeveloped; the south shore, busy and tacky, with aging motels and flashy casinos; and nearby Reno, the biggest little city in the region.

8Information

Lake Tahoe Visitors AuthorityTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-288-2463; www.tahoesouth.com; 169 Hwy 50, Stateline, NV; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)

A full range of tourist information.

North Lake Tahoe Visitors BureausTOURIST INFORMATION

(%800-468-2463; www.gotahoenorth.com)

Help with accommodations and outdoor-activity bookings.

8Getting There & Around

Greyhound buses from Reno, Sacramento and San Francisco run to Truckee, and you can also get the daily Zephyr train here from the same destinations. From Truckee, take the Truckee Transit (%530-587-7451; www.laketahoetransit.com; single/day pass $2.50/5) to Donner Lake, or Tahoe Area Rapid Transit (TART; GOOGLE MAP ; %530-550-1212; www.laketahoetransit.com; 10183 Truckee Airport Rd; single/day pass $2/4) (TART) buses to the north, west and east shore of the lake.

The winter Bay Area Ski Bus (%925-680-4386; www.bayareaskibus.com) connects San Francisco and Sacramento with Tahoe's slopes.

TART runs buses along the north shore as far as Incline Village, down the western shore to Ed Z’berg Sugar Pine Point State Park, and north to Squaw Valley and Truckee via Hwy 89. The main routes typically depart hourly from about 6am until 6pm daily.

South Lake Tahoe & West Shore

With retro motels and eateries lining busy Hwy 50, South Lake Tahoe gets crowded. Gambling at Stateline’s casino hotels, just across the Nevada border, attracts thousands, as does the world-class ski resort of Heavenly ( GOOGLE MAP ; %775-586-7000; www.skiheavenly.com; 4080 Lake Tahoe Blvd; adult/child 5-12yr/youth 13-18yr $135/79/113; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, from 8:30am Sat, Sun & holidays; c). In summer a trip up Heavenly’s gondola (adult/child $42/20) guarantees fabulous views of the lake and the Desolation Wilderness, with its raw granite peaks, glacier-carved valleys and alpine lakes favored by hikers. Get maps, information and wilderness permits (per adult $5 to $10) from the USFS Taylor Creek Visitor Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-543-2674; www.fs.usda.gov/ltbmu; Visitor Center Rd, off Hwy 89; h8am-5pm late May-Sep, to 4pm Oct). It’s 3 miles north of the ‘Y’ intersection of Hwys 50/89, at Tallac Historic Site ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.tahoeheritage.org; Tallac Rd; optional tour adult/child $10/5; h10am-4pm daily mid-Jun–Sep, Fri & Sat late May–mid-Jun; #), preserving swish early-20th-century vacation estates.

From sandy, swimmable Zephyr Cove ( GOOGLE MAP ; %775-589-4901; www.zephyrcove.com; 760 Hwy 50; per car $10; c) across the Nevada border or the in-town Ski Run Marina, Lake Tahoe Cruises ( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-238-2463; www.zephyrcove.com; 900 Ski Run Blvd; adult/child from $55/20; c) plies the ‘Big Blue’ year round. Paddle under your own power with Kayak Tahoe ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-544-2011; www.kayaktahoe.com; 3411 Lake Tahoe Blvd; kayak single/double 1hr $25/35, 1 day $65/85, lessons & tours from $40; h9am-5pm Jun-Sep). Back on shore, boutique-chic motels include the Alder Inn ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-544-4485; www.alderinn.com; 1072 Ski Run Blvd; r $89-149; pnWs) and the hip Basecamp Hotel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-208-0180; www.basecamphotels.com; 4143 Cedar Ave; d $109-229, 8-person bunk room $209-299, pet fee $40; W#), which has a rooftop hot tub, or pitch a tent at lakeside Fallen Leaf Campground ( GOOGLE MAP ; %info 530-544-0426, reservations 877-444-6777; www.recreation.gov; 2165 Fallen Leaf Lake Rd; tent & RV sites $33-35, yurts $84; hmid-May–mid-Oct; #). Fuel up at vegetarian-friendly Sprouts ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.sproutscafetahoe.com; 3123 Harrison Ave; mains $7-10; h8am-9pm; vc) natural-foods cafe, or with a peanut-butter-topped burger and garlic fries at the Burger Lounge ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-542-2010; 717 Emerald Bay Rd; dishes $4-10; h10am-8pm Jun-Sep, 11am-7pm Thu-Mon Oct-May; c).

Hwy 89 threads northwest along the thickly forested west shore to Emerald Bay State Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-541-6498; www.parks.ca.gov), where granite cliffs and pine trees frame a sparkling fjordlike inlet. A 1-mile trail leads steeply downhill to Vikingsholm Castle ( GOOGLE MAP ; http://vikingsholm.com; tour adult/child 7-17yr $10/8; h10:30am-3:30pm or 4pm late May–Sep; pc), a 1920s Scandinavian-style mansion. From there, the Rubicon Trail ribbons 4.5 miles north along the lakeshore past petite coves to DL Bliss State Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-525-7277; www.parks.ca.gov; per car $10; hlate May–Sep; pc), offering sandy beaches. Further north, Tahoma Meadows B&B Cottages ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-525-1553; www.tahomameadows.com; 6821 W Lake Blvd; cottages $119-239, pet fee $20; pnW#) rents darling country cabins.

North & East Shores

A busy commercial hub, Tahoe City is great for grabbing food and supplies and renting outdoor-sports gear. It’s not far from Squaw Valley USA ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-452-4331; www.squaw.com; 1960 Squaw Valley Rd, off Hwy 89, Olympic Valley; adult/child 5-12yr/youth 13-22yr $124/75/109; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, from 8:30am Sat, Sun & holidays; c), a megasized ski resort that hosted the 1960 Winter Olympics. Après-ski crowds gather at woodsy Bridgetender Tavern & Grill ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.tahoebridgetender.com; 65 W Lake Blvd; h11am-11pm, to midnight Fri & Sat) back in town. In the morning, gobble eggs Benedict with house-smoked salmon at down-home Fire Sign Cafe ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.firesigncafe.com; 1785 W Lake Blvd; mains $7-13; h7am-3pm; vc), 2 miles further south.

In summer, swim or kayak at Tahoe Vista or Kings Beach. Overnight at Cedar Glen Lodge ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-546-4281; www.tahoecedarglen.com; 6589 N Lake Blvd; r, ste & cottages $139-350, pet fee $30; iWs#), where rustic-themed cottages and rooms have kitchenettes, or well-kept, compact Hostel Tahoe ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-546-3266; www.hosteltahoe.com; 8931 N Lake Blvd; dm/d/q $33/60/80; iW). East of Kings Beach’s casual lakeside eateries, Hwy 28 barrels into Nevada. Catch a live-music show at a just-over-the-border casino, or for more happening bars and bistros, drive further to Incline Village.

With pristine beaches, lakes and miles of multi-use trails, Lake Tahoe-Nevada State Park (www.parks.nv.gov) is the east shore’s biggest draw. Summer crowds splash in the turquoise waters of Sand Harbor. The 13-mile Flume Trail, a mountain biker’s holy grail, ends further south at Spooner Lake. Back in Incline Village, Flume Trail Bikes (http://flumetrailtahoe.com) offers bicycle rentals and shuttles.

Truckee & Around

North of Lake Tahoe off I-80, Truckee is not in fact a truck stop but a thriving mountain town, with coffee shops, trendy boutiques and dining in downtown’s historical district. Ski bums have several resorts to pick from, including glam Northstar California ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-562-1010; www.northstarcalifornia.com; 5001 Northstar Dr, off Hwy 267; adult/child 5-12yr/youth 13-18yr $130/77/107; h8am-4pm; c); kid-friendly Sugar Bowl ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-426-9000; www.sugarbowl.com; 629 Sugar Bowl Rd, off Donner Pass Rd, Norden; adult/child 6-12yr/youth 13-22yr $85/35/76; h9am-4pm; c); and Royal Gorge ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-426-3871; www.royalgorge.com; 9411 Pahatsi Rd, off I-80 exit Soda Springs/Norden, Soda Springs; adult/youth 13-22yr $32/25; h9am-5pm during snow season; c#), paradise for cross-country skiers.

West of Hwy 89, Donner Summit is where the infamous Donner Party became trapped during the fierce winter of 1846–47. Fewer than half survived – some by cannibalizing their dead friends. The grisly tale is chronicled at the museum inside Donner Memorial State Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-582-7892; www.parks.ca.gov; Donner Pass Rd; per car $8; h10am-5pm; pc), which offers camping ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-582-7894, reservations 800-444-7275; www.reserveamerica.com; tent & RV sites $35; hlate May-late Sep). Nearby Donner Lake is popular with swimmers and paddlers.

On the outskirts of Truckee, green-certified Cedar House Sport Hotel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-582-5655; www.cedarhousesporthotel.com; 10918 Brockway Rd; r $170-295, pet fee $50; pniW#) offers stylish boutique rooms and an outstanding restaurant. Down pints of Donner Party Porter at Fifty Fifty Brewing Co ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.fiftyfiftybrewing.com; 11197 Brockway Rd; h11:30am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 9:30pm Fri & Sat).