6Drinking & Nightlife

Drinking, whether it's coffee or a craft brew, cider or kombucha, is practically a sport in Portland. In winter it's a reason to hunker down and escape the rain; in summer, an excuse to sit on a patio or deck and soak up the long-awaited sunshine. Whatever you like to drink, there's bound to be a hand-crafted, artisan version of it here.

oBaristaCOFFEE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %503-274-1211; www.baristapdx.com; 539 NW 13th Ave; h6am-6pm Mon-Fri, 7am-6pm Sat & Sun; g4, 6, 10, 14, 15, 30, 51)

One of Portland's best coffee shops, this tiny, stylish shop is owned by award-winning barista Billy Wilson. Beans are sourced from specialty roasters. Three other locations in town.

Coava CoffeeCOFFEE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-894-8134; www.coavacoffee.com; 1300 SE Grand Ave; h6am-6pm Mon-Fri, 7am-6pm Sat & Sun; W; g6, 15, jB Loop)

The decor takes the concept of 'neo-industrial' to extremes, but it works – and Coava delivers where it matters. The pour-over makes for a fantastic cup of java, and the espressos are exceptional, too. Also at 2631 SE Hawthorne Blvd.

Stumptown Coffee RoastersCOFFEE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-230-7702; www.stumptowncoffee.com; 4525 SE Division St; h6am-7pm Mon-Fri, 7am-7pm Sat & Sun; W; g4)

Stumptown was the first micro-roaster to put Portland on the coffee map and this small, narrow space is where it all started.

Breakside BreweryBREWERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-719-6475; www.breakside.com; 820 NE Dekum St; h11:30am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; g8)

Over 20 taps of some of the most experimental, tasty beer you'll ever drink, laced with fruits, vegetables and spices (try the hoppy Breakside IPA). Past beers have included a Meyer lemon kölsch, a mango IPA and a beet beer with ginger. For dessert, pray they have the salted-caramel stout. Good food and nice outdoor seating, too.

Culmination BrewingMICROBREWERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.culminationbrewing.com; 2117 NE Oregon St; plates $5-13; hnoon-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat; g12)

At this comfortable tasting room in a refurbished old warehouse, you'll find some of the city's best beers (including the top-notch Phaedrus IPA plus a whole array of limited-edition seasonals) and a brief but unusually ambitious food menu. If the pêche is available, try it, even if you don't normally like 'fruit' beers.

Ecliptic BrewingBREWERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-265-8002; www.eclipticbrewing.com; 825 N Cook St; h11am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; g4)

It's in kind of a chilly industrial space, but the beer speaks for itself – Ecliptic was founded by John Harris, who previously brewed for McMenamins, Deschutes and Full Sail. The brewery's astronomically named creations (such as the Craft Beer medal-winning Spica Pilsner) are ambitious and wildly successful. Food includes a roast-lamb sandwich, razor clams and sauteed kale.

Cider RiotBREWERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.ciderriot.com; 807 NE Couch St; h4-11pm Mon & Wed-Fri, noon-11pm Sat & Sun; g12, 19, 20)

Portland's best cider company now has its very own pub and tasting room, so you can sample Everybody Pogo, Never Give an Inch or Plastic Paddy at the source. Ciders here are dry and complex, made with regional apples and hyper-regional attitude.

Hopworks Urban BreweryBREWERY

(HUB; GOOGLE MAP ; %503-232-4677; www.hopworksbeer.com; 2944 SE Powell Blvd; h11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; c; g9)S

All-organic beers made with local ingredients, served in an ecofriendly building with bicycle frames above the bar. Try the IPA or the Survival Stout, made with Stumptown coffee. There's a good selection of food and a family-friendly atmosphere, and the back deck can't be beat on a warm day. There's another branch at 3947 N Williams Ave.

3Entertainment

For current guides to what's on around town, check the two local weekly papers and their websites: Willamette Week (www.wweek.com), which comes out on Wednesday, and the Portland Mercury (www.portlandmercury.com), out on Thursday.

Live Music

Doug Fir LoungeLIVE MUSIC

( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-231-9663; www.dougfirlounge.com; 830 E Burnside St; h7am-2:30am; g20)

Combining futuristic elements with a rustic log-cabin aesthetic, this venue has helped transform the LoBu (lower Burnside) neighborhood from seedy to slick. Doug Fir books great bands and the sound quality is usually tops. The attached restaurant offers a killer breakfast, weekend brunch, and a bar menu ($6-10) until close. Find it next door to the after-party-friendly Jupiter Hotel.

Crystal BallroomLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %503-225-0047; www.mcmenamins.com; 1332 W Burnside St; g20)

This large, historic ballroom has hosted some major acts, including James Brown and Marvin Gaye in the early '60s. The bouncy, 'floating' dance floor makes dancing almost effortless.

Mississippi StudiosLIVE MUSIC

( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-288-3895; www.mississippistudios.com; 3939 N Mississippi Ave; g4)

This intimate bar is good for checking out budding acoustic talent along with more established musical acts. Excellent sound system, and good restaurant-bar with patio (and awesome burgers) next door. Located right on busy N Mississippi Ave.

Performing Arts

Portland Center StageTHEATER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %503-445-3700; www.pcs.org; 128 NW 11th Ave; tickets from $25; g4, 8, 44, 77)

The city's main theater company now performs in the Portland Armory – a renovated Pearl District landmark with state-of-the-art features.

Arlene Schnitzer Concert HallCLASSICAL MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %503-248-4335; www.portland5.com; 1037 SW Broadway; g10, 14, 15, 35, 36, 44, 54, 56)

This beautiful, if not acoustically brilliant, downtown venue, built in 1928, hosts a wide range of shows, lectures, concerts and other performances.

Artists Repertory TheatreTHEATER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %503-241-1278; www.artistsrep.org; 1515 SW Morrison St; tickets preview/regular $25/50; g15, 51)

Some of Portland's best plays, including regional premieres, are performed in two intimate theaters here.

Keller AuditoriumPERFORMING ARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %503-248-4335; www.portland5.com; 222 SW Clay St; g38, 45, 55, 92, 96)

Built in 1917 and formerly known as the Civic Auditorium, Keller hosts a wide range of performers, from big-name musicians (Sturgill Simpson) to the Portland Opera and the Oregon Ballet Theatre, along with some Broadway productions.

7Shopping

Portland’s downtown shopping district extends in a two-block radius from Pioneer Courthouse Sq and hosts all of the usual suspects. The Pearl District is dotted with high-end galleries, boutiques and home decor shops. On weekends, you can visit the quintessential Saturday Market by the Skidmore Fountain. For a pleasant, upscale shopping street, head to NW 23rd Ave.

Eastside has lots of trendy shopping streets that also host restaurants and cafes. SE Hawthorne Blvd is the biggest, N Mississippi Ave is the newest and NE Alberta St is the most artsy and funkiest. Down south, Sellwood is known for its antique shops.

DON'T MISS

POWELL'S CITY OF BOOKS

oPowell's City of BooksBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %800-878-7323; www.powells.com; 1005 W Burnside St; h9am-11pm; g20)

Powell's is one of the USA's largest independent bookstores, with a whole city block of new and used titles and a well-attended series of readings. There's another branch at 3723 SE Hawthorne Blvd (with a Home and Garden bookstore next door), and one at the airport.

8Information

Emergency & Medical Services

Portland Police BureauPOLICE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-823-0000; www.portlandoregon.gov/police; 1111 SW 2nd Ave)

Police and emergency services.

Legacy Good Samaritan Medical CenterMEDICAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-413-7711; www.legacyhealth.org; 1015 NW 22nd Ave)

Convenient to downtown.

Media

AKBOO 90.7 FM (www.kboo.fm) Progressive local station run by volunteers; alternative news and views.

APortland Mercury (www.portlandmercury.com) Free local sibling of Seattle's The Stranger.

AWillamette Week (www.wweek.com) Free weekly covering local news and culture.

Post

Post OfficePOST

( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-525-5398; www.usps.com; 715 NW Hoyt St; h8am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-5pm Sat)

Tourist Information

Travel PortlandTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-275-8355; www.travelportland.com; 701 SW 6th Ave; h8:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat Nov-Apr, plus 10am-2pm Sun May-Oct; dRed, Blue, Green, Yellow)

Super-friendly volunteers staff this office in Pioneer Courthouse Sq. There's a small theater with a 12-minute film about the city, and Tri-Met bus and light-rail offices inside.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Portland International AirportAIRPORT

(PDX; GOOGLE MAP ; %503-460-4234; www.flypdx.com; 7000 NE Airport Way; W; dred)

Award-winning Portland International Airport has daily flights all over the US, as well as to several international destinations. It's situated just east of I-5 on the banks of the Columbia River (20 minutes' drive from downtown).

Bus

GreyhoundBUS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-243-2361; www.greyhound.com; 550 NW 6th Ave; dgreen, orange, yellow)

Greyhound connects Portland with cities along I-5 and I-84. Destinations beyond Oregon include Chicago, Denver, San Francisco, Seattle and Vancouver, BC.

Bolt BusBUS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %877-265-8287; www.boltbus.com)

Connects Portland with Seattle (from $25), Bellingham ($40), Eugene ($15) and Vancouver, BC ($50), among other cities. Buses leave from the corner of NW 8th Ave and NW Everett St.

Train

AmtrakTRAIN

( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-872-7245; www.amtrak.com; 800 NW 6th Ave; g17, dgreen, yellow)

Amtrak serves Chicago, Oakland, Seattle and Vancouver, BC. Departures are from Union Station.

8Getting Around

To/From the Airport

Tri-Met's light-rail MAX red line takes about 40 minutes to get from downtown to the airport (adult/child $2.50/1.25). If you prefer a bus, Blue Star (%503-249-1837; www.bluestarbus.com) offers shuttle services between PDX and several downtown stops.

Taxis charge around $35-40 (not including tip) from the airport to downtown.

Bicycle

Clever CyclesBICYCLE RENTAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-334-1560; www.clevercycles.com; 900 SE Hawthorne Blvd; rentals per day $30, cargo bikes $60; h11am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun; g10, 14)

Rents folding, family and cargo bikes.

Public Transportation

Portland has a good public-transportation system, which consists of local buses, streetcars and the MAX light rail. All are run by TriMet, which has an information center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-238-7433, 503-725-9005; www.trimet.org; 701 SW 6th Ave; h8:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri; dblue, red, green, yellow) at Pioneer Courthouse Sq.

Tickets for the transportation systems are completely transferable within 2½ hours of the time of purchase. Buy tickets for local buses from fare machines as you enter; for streetcars, you can buy tickets at streetcar stations or on the streetcar itself. Tickets for the MAX must be bought from ticket machines at MAX stations (before you board); there is no conductor or ticket seller on board (but there are enforcers).

If you're a night owl, be aware that there are fewer services at night, and most stop running at 1am; check the website for details on a specific line.

Car

Most major car-rental agencies have outlets both downtown and at Portland's airport. Many of these agencies have added hybrid vehicles to their fleets. Car 2 Go (www.car2go.com/en/portland; membership fee $5, rental per hour from $15) and Zipcar (www.zipcar.com; membership fee per month from $7, rental per hour $8-10) are two popular car-sharing options.

Charter Service

For custom bus or van charters and tours, try EcoShuttle (%503-548-4480; www.ecoshuttle.net). Its vehicles run on 100% biodiesel.

Taxi

Cabs are available 24 hours by phone. Downtown, you can sometimes flag them down, and some bartenders will call you a cab on request.

Broadway Cab (%503-333-3333; www.broadwaycab.com)

Radio Cab (%503-227-1212; www.radiocab.net)

Willamette Valley

The Willamette Valley, a fertile 60-mile wide agricultural basin, was the Holy Grail for Oregon Trail pioneers who headed west more than 170 years ago. Today it’s the state’s breadbasket, producing more than 100 kinds of crops – including renowned Pinot Noir grapes. Salem, Oregon’s capital, is about an hour’s drive from Portland at the northern end of the valley, and most of the other attractions in the area make easy day trips as well. Toward the south is Eugene, a dynamic college town worth a day or two of exploration.

Salem

Oregon’s legislative center is renowned for its cherry trees, art-deco capitol building and Willamette University.

The University’s Hallie Ford Museum of Art ( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-370-6855; www.willamette.edu/arts/hfma; 700 State St; adult/child $6/free, Tue free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 1-5pm Sun) showcases the state’s best collection of Pacific Northwest art, including an impressive Native American gallery.

The Oregon State Capitol ( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-986-1388; www.oregonlegislature.gov; 900 Court St NE; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri), built in 1938, looks like a background prop from a lavish Cecil B DeMille movie; free tours are offered. Rambling 19th-century Bush House ( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-363-4714; www.salemart.org; 600 Mission St SE; adult/child $6/3; hpark 10am-5pm Tue-Fri, noon-5pm Sat & Sun, tours 1-4pm Wed-Sun Mar-Dec) is an Italianate mansion now preserved as a museum with historical accents, including original wallpapers and marble fireplaces.

You can get oriented at the Visitors Information Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-581-4325; www.travelsalem.com; 181 High St NE; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat). Salem is served daily by Greyhound ( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-362-2428; www.greyhound.com; 500 13th St SE) buses and Amtrak ( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-588-1551; www.amtrak.com; 500 13th St SE) trains.

Eugene

'Track Town' offers a great art scene, exceptionally fine restaurants, boisterous festivals, miles of riverside paths and several lovely parks. Its location at the confluence of the Willamette and McKenzie Rivers, just west of the Cascades, means there's plenty of outdoor recreation on offer – especially around the McKenzie River region, the Three Sisters Wilderness and Willamette Pass.

1Sights

Alton Baker ParkPARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; 100 Day Island Rd)

This popular 400-acre riverside park, which provides access to the Ruth Bascom Riverbank Trail System, a 12-mile bikeway that flanks both sides of the Willamette, is heaven for cyclists and joggers. There's good downtown access via the DeFazio Bike Bridge.

University of OregonUNIVERSITY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-346-1000; www.uoregon.edu; 1585 E 13th Ave)

Established in 1872, the University of Oregon is the state's foremost institution of higher learning, with a focus on the arts, sciences and law. The campus is filled with historic ivy-covered buildings and includes a Pioneer Cemetery, with tombstones that give a vivid insight into life and death in the early settlement. Campus tours are held in summer.

4Sleeping

Prices can rise sharply during key football games (September to November) and at graduation (mid-June).

Eugene Whiteaker International HostelHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-343-3335; www.eugenehostel.org; 970 W 3rd Ave; dm from $35, r from $50; niW)

This casual hostel in an old, rambling house has an artsy vibe, nice front and back patios to hang out on, and a free simple breakfast. Towels and bedding are included in the price.

C'est La Vie InnB&B$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-302-3014; www.cestlavieinn.com; 1006 Taylor St; r from $160; naiW)

This gorgeous Victorian house, run by a friendly French woman and her American husband, is a neighborhood showstopper. Beautiful antique furniture fills the living and dining areas, while the four tastefully appointed rooms (each named for a French artist) offer comfort and luxury. Hosts provide a full breakfast, as well as afternoon port and other nice touches.

5Eating & Drinking

KivaHEALTH FOOD$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-342-8666; www.kivagrocery.com; 125 W 11th Ave; sandwiches $4-9; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8pm Sat & Sun)

An exceptional natural-food grocery store, Kiva stocks all-organic and mostly local produce. There are sandwiches and soups available too.

Papa's Soul Food KitchenSOUTHERN US$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-342-7500; www.papassoulfoodkitchen.com; 400 Blair Blvd; mains $9-14; hnoon-2pm & 5-10pm Tue-Fri, 2-10pm Sat)

This popular Southern-food spot grills up awesome jerk chicken, pulled-pork sandwiches, crawfish jambalaya and fried okra. The best part is the live blues music that keeps the joint open late on Friday and Saturday nights. Nice back patio, too.

oBeppe & Gianni's TrattoriaITALIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-683-6661; www.beppeandgiannis.net; 1646 E 19th Ave; mains $15-26; h5-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat)

One of Eugene's most beloved restaurants, Beppe & Gianni's serves up homemade pastas and excellent desserts. Expect a wait, especially on weekends.

BoardAMERICAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-343-3023; www.boardrestaurant.com; 394 Blair Blvd; mains $10-19; h4-11pm Tue, Thu & Sun, to 10pm Wed, to 1am Fri & Sat)

The menu sounds fancy, but the atmosphere in this low-ceilinged neighborhood joint – the former home of Eugene's oldest and diviest bar, Tiny's Tavern – is comfy, soothing and completely unpretentious. Rough-hewn wood and copper accents give everything a warm glow; the cocktails don't hurt, either. The food is top notch. Try the burger (perfect), anything with lamb, or shrimp and grits.

Ninkasi Brewing CompanyBREWERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-344-2739; www.ninkasibrewing.com; 272 Van Buren St; hnoon-9pm Sun-Wed, to 10pm Thu-Sat)

Especially if you like hops, head to this tasting room to sample some of Oregon's most distinctive and innovative microbrews at the source. There's a sweet patio with snacks available, and a rotating lineup of food carts. Brewery tours start at 4pm daily, plus 2pm Thursday to Monday and 12:30pm Saturday and Sunday.

WORTH A TRIP

HOT SPRINGS

Wine isn't the only liquid indulgence to be had in the Willamette Valley – it's also known for its many natural hot springs. Three are easily accessible from Salem and Eugene.

Bagby Hot Springs ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.bagbyhotsprings.org; $5; h24hr) is a rustic hot spring with various wooden tubs in semi-private bathhouses. It's a couple of hours' drive east of Salem, accessible via a lovely 1.5-mile hiking trail.

Enjoy salubrious climes at Breitenbush Hot Springs ( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-854-3320; www.breitenbush.com; 53000 Breitenbush Rd, Detroit; day use per person $18-32; hoffice 9am-4pm Mon-Sat), a fancy spa with massages, yoga and the like. Day-use activities include the hot springs and sauna, yoga and meditation, massage, hiking trails, and a library; you can also stay the night here. Reservations are required, including for day use.

About 40 miles east of Eugene, Terwilliger Hot Springs (Cougar Hot Springs; GOOGLE MAP ; $6) is a beautiful cluster of terraced outdoor pools framed by large rocks. The springs are rustic but well maintained, with the hottest on top. From the parking lot, walk a quarter-mile to the springs. To get here, turn south onto Aufderheide Scenic Byway from Hwy 126 and drive 7.5 miles. Clothing is optional, no alcohol is allowed and it's day use only.

8Information

Visitor CenterTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-484-5307; www.eugenecascadescoast.org; 754 Olive St; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri)

This center is open weekdays. On weekends, stop by the visitor center at 3312 Gateway St in Springfield for information.

8Getting There & Around

Eugene Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-682-5544; www.flyeug.com; 28801 Douglas Dr) is about 7 miles northwest of the center. Greyhound ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-344-6265; www.greyhound.com; 987 Pearl St) provides long-distance services to Salem, Corvallis, Portland, Medford, Grants Pass, Hood River, Newport and Bend.

Trains leave from the Amtrak station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-687-1383; www.amtrak.com; 433 Willamette St) for Portland, Seattle, WA, and Vancouver, BC (among other places).

Local bus service is provided by Lane Transit District (%541-687-5555; www.ltd.org). For bike rentals, head to Paul's Bicycle Way of Life ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-344-4105; www.bicycleway.com; 556 Charnelton St; rentals per day $24-48; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun).

Columbia River Gorge

The fourth-largest river in the US by volume, the mighty Columbia runs 1243 miles from Alberta, Canada, into the Pacific Ocean just west of Astoria. For the final 309 miles of its course, the heavily dammed waterway delineates the border between Washington and Oregon and cuts though the Cascade Mountains via the spectacular Columbia River Gorge. Sheltering numerous ecosystems, waterfalls and magnificent vistas, the land bordering the river is protected as a National Scenic Area and is a popular sporting nexus for windsurfers, cyclists, anglers and hikers.

Not far from Portland, Multnomah Falls is a huge tourist draw, while Vista House offers stupendous gorge views. And if you want to stretch your legs, the Eagle Creek Trail is the area’s premier tromping ground – provided you don’t get vertigo!

Hood River & Around

Famous for its surrounding fruit orchards and wineries, the small town of Hood River – 63 miles east of Portland on I-84 – is also a huge mecca for windsurfing and kiteboarding. Premier wineries have also taken hold in the region, providing good wine-tasting opportunities.

1Sights & Activities

Mt Hood RailroadRAIL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-872-4661; www.mthoodrr.com; 110 Railroad Ave; excursions adult/child from $35/30)

Built in 1906, the railroad once transported fruit and lumber from the upper Hood River Valley to the main railhead in Hood River. The vintage trains now transport tourists beneath Mt Hood's snowy peak and past fragrant orchards. The line is about 21 miles long and ends in pretty Parkdale. See the website for schedules and fares. Reserve.

Cathedral Ridge WineryWINE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-516-8710; www.cathedralridgewinery.com; 4200 Post Canyon Dr; tastings from $10; h11am-6pm)

This attractive winery in pretty farm country at the edge of town has signature red blends and a slew of awards on display. In nice weather, sit outdoors and take in the awesome view of Mt Hood. Tours and tastings at various levels are available.

Hood River WaterplayWATER SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-386-9463; www.hoodriverwaterplay.com; I-84 exit 64; 3hr windsurfing course $119, SUP lessons per hour from $48; hMay-Oct)

Interested in windsurfing, kayaking, SUP, catamaran sailing and so on? Contact this company, with a location right on the water.

Discover BicyclesCYCLING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-386-4820; www.discoverbicycles.com; 210 State St; rentals per day $30-80; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun)

This shop rents road, hybrid and mountain bikes and can give advice on area trails.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hood River HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-386-1900; www.hoodriverhotel.com; 102 Oak St; d from $91, ste from $169; naW#)

Located right in the heart of downtown, this fine 1913 hotel offers comfortable, old-fashioned rooms with four-poster or sleigh beds, some with tiny bathrooms. The suites have the best amenities and views. Kitchenettes are also available, and there's a restaurant and a sauna on the premises.

Columbia Gorge HotelHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-345-1921; www.columbiagorgehotel.com; 4000 Westcliff Dr; r $149-329; naiW#)

Hood River's most famous place to stay is this historic Spanish-style hotel, set high on a cliff above the Columbia. The atmosphere is classy and the grounds lovely, and there's a fine restaurant on the premises. Rooms have antique beds and furnishings. River-view rooms cost more but are worth it.

pFriem Tasting RoomGASTROPUB$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-321-0490; www.pfriembeer.com; 707 Portway Ave; mains $10-18; h11:30am-9pm)

The highly regarded beers at this brewery are matched by a meat-heavy menu that is definitely not run-of-the-mill: think mussels and frites, beef tongue, pork terrine, and a stew made with braised lamb and duck confit. It's located near the waterfront along a stretch of industrial-chic new development.

8Information

Chamber of CommerceTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-386-2000; www.hoodriver.org; 720 E Port Marina Dr; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri Nov-Mar)

Visitor information for Hood River and the surrounding area.

8Getting There & Away

GreyhoundBUS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-386-1212; www.greyhound.com; 110 Railroad Ave)

Hood River is connected to Portland by daily Greyhound buses (three daily, one hour, from $15).

Oregon Cascades

The Oregon Cascades offer plenty of dramatic volcanoes that dominate the skyline for miles around. Mt Hood, overlooking the Columbia River Gorge, is the state’s highest peak, and has year-round skiing plus a relatively straightforward summit ascent. Tracking south you’ll pass Mt Jefferson and the Three Sisters before reaching Crater Lake, the ghost of erstwhile Mt Mazama that collapsed in on itself after blowing its top approximately 7000 years ago.

Mt Hood

The state's highest peak, 11,240ft Mt Hood pops into view over much of northern Oregon whenever there's a sunny day, exerting an almost magnetic tug on skiers, hikers and sightseers. In summer, wildflowers bloom on the mountainsides and hidden ponds shimmer in blue, making for some unforgettable hikes; in winter, downhill and cross-country skiing dominates people's minds and bodies.

Mt Hood is accessible year-round on Hwy 26 from Portland (56 miles), and from Hood River (44 miles) on Hwy 35. Together with the Columbia River Hwy, these routes comprise the Mt Hood Loop, a popular scenic drive. Government Camp, the center of business on the mountain, is at the pass over Mt Hood.

2Activities

Skiing

Hood is rightly revered for its skiing. There are six ski areas on the mountain, including Timberline, which lures snow-lovers with the only year-round skiing in the US. Closer to Portland, Mt Hood SkiBowl ( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-272-3206; www.skibowl.com; Hwy 26; lift tickets $51, night skiing $37) is no slacker either. It’s the nation’s largest night-ski area and popular with city slickers who ride up for an evening of powder play from the metro zone. The largest ski area on the mountain is Mt Hood Meadows ( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-337-2222; www.skihood.com; lift tickets adult/child $89/44), where the best conditions usually prevail.

Hiking

The Mt Hood National Forest protects an astounding 1200 miles of trails. A Northwest Forest Pass ($5 per day) is required at most trailheads.

One popular trail loops 7 miles from near the village of Zigzag to beautiful Ramona Falls, which tumble down mossy columnar basalt. Another heads 1.5 miles up from US 26 to Mirror Lake, continues 0.5 miles around the lake, then tracks 2 miles beyond to a ridge.

The 41-mile Timberline Trail circumnavigates Mt Hood through scenic wilderness. Noteworthy portions include the hike to McNeil Point and the short climb to Bald Mountain. From Timberline Lodge, Zigzag Canyon Overlook is a 4.5-mile round-trip.

Climbing Mt Hood should be taken seriously, as deaths do occur, though dogs have made it to the summit and the climb can be done in a long day. Contact Timberline Mountain Guides (%541-312-9242; www.timberlinemtguides.com; 2-day summit per person $645) for guided climbs.

4Sleeping & Eating

Most area campsites (%877-444-6777; www.recreation.gov; sites $16-39) have drinking water and vault toilets. Reserve on busy weekends, though some walk-in sites are usually set aside. For more information, contact a nearby ranger station.

Huckleberry InnINN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-272-3325; www.huckleberry-inn.com; 88611 E Government Camp Loop; r $90-150, 10-bed dm $160; nW)

Simple and comfortably rustic rooms are available here, along with bunk rooms that sleep up to 10. It's in a great central location in Government Camp. The casual restaurant (which doubles as the hotel's reception) serves good breakfasts. Peak holiday rates are higher.

oTimberline LodgeLODGE$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-547-1406; www.timberlinelodge.com; 27500 Timberline Rd; bunk r $145-195, d from $255; nWs)

As much a community treasure as a hotel, this gorgeous historic lodge ( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-547-1406; www.timberlinelodge.com; 27500 Timberline Rd) offers a variety of rooms, from dorms that sleep up to 10 to deluxe fireplace rooms. There's a year-round heated outdoor pool, and the ski lifts ( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-272-3158; www.timberlinelodge.com; Government Camp; lift tickets adult/child $68/46) are close by. Enjoy awesome views of Mt Hood, nearby hiking trails, two bars and a good dining room. Rates vary widely.

Mt Hood Brewing CoPUB FOOD$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-272-3172; www.mthoodbrewing.com; 87304 E Government Camp Loop, Government Camp; mains $12-20; h11am-10pm)

Government Camp's only brewery-restaurant offers a friendly, family-style atmosphere and pub fare including hand-tossed pizzas, sandwiches and short ribs.

Rendezvous Grill & Tap RoomAMERICAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-622-6837; http://thevousgrill.com; 67149 E Hwy 26, Welches; mains $12-29; h11:30am-8pm Tue-Sun, to 9pm Fri & Sat)

In a league of its own is this excellent restaurant with outstanding dishes such as wild salmon with caramelized shallots and artichoke hash or chargrilled pork chop with rhubarb chutney. Lunch means gourmet sandwiches, burgers and salads on the patio. Bonus: excellent cocktails.

8Information

For maps, permits and information, contact regional ranger stations. If you’re approaching from Hood River, visit the Hood River Ranger Station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-352-6002; 6780 OR 35, Parkdale; h8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri). The Zigzag Ranger Station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-622-3191; 70220 E Hwy 26; h7:45am-4:30pm Mon-Sat) is more handy for Portland arrivals. Mt Hood Information Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-272-3301; 88900 E Hwy 26; h9am-5pm) is in Government Camp. The weather changes quickly here; carry chains in winter.

8Getting There & Away

From Portland, Mt Hood is one hour (56 miles) by car along Hwy 26. Alternatively, you can take the prettier and longer approach via Hwy 84 to Hood River, then Hwy 35 south (1¾ hours, 95 miles).

The Central Oregon Breeze (%800-847-0157; www.cobreeze.com) shuttle between Bend and Portland stops briefly at Government Camp, 6 miles from the Timberline Lodge. Sea to Summit (%503-286-9333; www.seatosummit.net; round-trip from $59) runs regular shuttles from Portland to the ski areas during the winter.

Sisters

Once a stagecoach stop and trade town for loggers and ranchers, today Sisters is a bustling tourist destination whose main street is lined with boutiques, art galleries and eateries housed in Western-facade buildings. Visitors come for the mountain scenery, spectacular hiking, fine cultural events and awesome climate – there’s plenty of sun and little precipitation here.

At the southern end of Sisters, the city park (Creekside Campground; GOOGLE MAP ; %541-323-5220; S Locust St; tent/RV sites $20/40; hMay-Oct) has camp sites, but no showers. For ultra comfort, bag a room in the luxurious Five Pine Lodge ( GOOGLE MAP ; %866-974-5900; www.fivepinelodge.com; 1021 Desperado Trail; d from $159, cabins from $179; naiWs#). Or there's Blue Spruce (%888-328-9644; www.bluesprucebnb.com; 444 S Spruce St; d $149-189; naW), a fine B&B with fireplaces and jet-tubs in each room.

For refined French food you might not expect out here, head to Cottonwood Cafe (%541-549-2699; www.intimatecottagecuisine.com; 403 E Hood Ave; breakfast $9-13, lunch mains $9-13), while Three Creeks Brewing ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-549-1963; www.threecreeksbrewing.com; 721 Desperado Ct; mains $11-21, pizzas $11-26; h11:30am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat) is the place for home brew and pub grub.

8Information

Chamber of CommerceTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-549-0251; www.sisterscountry.com; 291 E Main Ave; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat)

8Getting There & Away

Valley RetrieverBUS

(%541-265-2253; www.kokkola-bus.com/VRBSchedule)

Buses connect Sisters with Bend, Newport, Corvallis, Salem, McMinnville and Portland; the buses stop at the corner of Cascade and Spruce Sts.

Bend

Bend is where all lovers of the outdoors should live – it's an absolute paradise. You can ski fine powder in the morning, paddle a kayak in the afternoon and play golf into the evening. Or would you rather go mountain biking, hiking, mountaineering, stand-up paddleboarding, fly-fishing or rock climbing? It's all close by and top drawer. Plus, you'll probably be enjoying it all in great weather, as the area gets nearly 300 days of sunshine each year.

1Sights

oHigh Desert MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-382-4754; www.highdesertmuseum.org; 59800 Hwy 97; adult/child $12/7; h9am-5pm May-Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Apr; c)

This excellent museum, about 3 miles south of Bend, charts the exploration and settlement of the West, using reenactments of a Native American camp, a hard-rock mine and an old Western town. The region's natural history is also explored; kids love the live snake, tortoise and trout exhibits, and watching the birds of prey and otters is always fun. Guided walks and other programs are well worth attending – don't miss the raptor presentation.

Smith Rock State ParkSTATE PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-551-6949; www.oregonstateparks.org; 9241 NE Crooked River Dr; day use $5)

Best known for its glorious rock climbing, Smith Rock State Park boasts rust-colored 800ft cliffs that tower over the pretty Crooked River. Nonclimbers have several miles of fine hiking trails, some of which involve a little simple rock scrambling. Nearby Terrebonne has a climbing store, along with some restaurants and grocery stores. There's camping ( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-551-6949; www.oregonstateparks.org; 9241 NE Crooked River Dr; sites per person $5) right next to the park, or at Skull Hollow (no water; campsites $5), 8 miles east. The nearest motels are a few miles south in Redmond.

2Activities

Smith Rock Climbing Guides IncCLIMBING

(%541-788-6225; www.smithrockclimbingguides.com; Terrebonne; half-day per person from $65)

This company offers a variety of climbing instruction (basic, lead, trad, multipitch, aid and self-rescue), along with guided climbs to famous routes at Smith Rock State Park. Gear is included. Prices depend on the number in your group. Open by appointment.

Mt Bachelor Ski ResortSKIING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-829-2442; www.mtbachelor.com; lift tickets adult/child $92/52, cross-country day pass $19/12; hNov-May, depending on snowfall; c)

Bend hosts some of Oregon's best skiing 22 miles southwest of town at Mt Bachelor Ski Resort, famous for its 'dry' powdery snow, long season and ample terrain (it's the largest ski area in the Pacific Northwest). The resort has long advocated cross-country skiing in tandem with downhill and it maintains 35 miles of groomed trails.

Mountain Biking

Bend is a mountain-biking paradise, with hundreds of miles of awesome trails to explore. The good Bend Area Trail Map ($12; www.adventuremaps.net/shop/product/product/bend-area-trail-map) is available at the Visit Bend tourist office and elsewhere.

The king of Bend’s mountain biking trails is Phil’s Trail network, which offers a variety of excellent fast single-track forest trails just minutes from town. If you want to catch air, don’t miss the Whoops Trail.

Cog WildCYCLING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-385-7002; www.cogwild.com; 255 SW Century Dr, Suite 201; half-day tours from $60, rentals $30-80; h9am-6pm)

This adventure-oriented company offers tours and shuttles out to the best trailheads. You can also arrange to rent bikes, either directly from Cog or through other local shops.

4Sleeping

There's an endless supply of cheap motels, hotels and services on 3rd St (US 97). Because of festivals and events, Bend's lodging rates head north most weekends, and booking ahead is recommended.

Mill InnINN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-389-9198; www.millinn.com; 642 NW Colorado Ave; d $100-170; nW)

A 10-room boutique hotel with small, classy rooms decked out with velvet drapes and comforters; four share outside bathrooms. Full breakfast and hot-tub use are included, and there are nice small patios on which to hang out.

oMcMenamins Old St Francis SchoolHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-382-5174; www.mcmenamins.com; 700 NW Bond St; r from $155; naW)

One of McMenamins' best venues, this old schoolhouse has been remodeled into a classy 19-room hotel – two rooms even have side-by-side clawfoot tubs. A recent expansion has added 41 new rooms. The fabulous tiled saltwater Turkish bath alone is worth the stay, though nonguests can soak for $5. A restaurant-pub, three bars, a movie theater and artwork complete the picture.

oOxford HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-382-8436; www.oxfordhotelbend.com; 10 NW Minnesota Ave; r from $249; naW#)S

Bend's premier boutique hotel is deservedly popular. The smallest rooms are still huge (470 sq ft) and are decked out with ecofriendly features such as soy-foam mattresses and cork flooring. High-tech aficionados will love the iPod docks and smart-panel desks. Suites (with kitchen and steam shower) are available, and the basement restaurant is slick.

5Eating

oChowAMERICAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-728-0256; www.chowbend.com; 1110 NW Newport Ave; mains $8-15; h7am-2pm)S

The signature poached-egg dishes here are spectacular and beautifully presented, coming with sides such as crab cakes, house-cured ham and cornmeal-crusted tomatoes (don't miss the house-made hot sauces). Gourmet sandwiches and salads, some with an Asian influence, are served for lunch. Much of the produce is grown in the garden, and there are good cocktails, too.

10 Barrel Brewing CoAMERICAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-678-5228; www.10barrel.com; 1135 NW Galveston Ave; mains $11-15, pizzas $15-20; h11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)

Located in a charming house, this popular brewery-restaurant has a great patio for warm nights. The tasty pub-food menu includes starters such as fried brussels sprouts and steak and gorgonzola nachos, while mains run the gamut from elk burgers to coconut-lime mussels. Sports lovers should head to the bar in the back.

Sparrow BakeryBAKERY$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-330-6321; www.thesparrowbakery.net; 50 SE Scott St; breakfasts $5-9; h7am-2pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun)

This bakery is famous for its Ocean Rolls, a delicious cardamom-laced sweet pastry – but the breakfast sandwiches, including an outstanding cream cheese and lox bagel, are also great.

Victorian CaféBREAKFAST$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; 1404 NW Galveston Ave; mains $13-25; h7am-2pm)

One of Bend's best breakfast spots, the Victorian Café is especially awesome for its eggs Benedict (nine kinds). It's also good for sandwiches, burgers and salads. There's really nice outdoor seating in summer. Be ready to wait for a table, especially on weekends.

ZydecoAMERICAN$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-312-2899; www.zydecokitchen.com; 919 NW Bond St; dinner mains $12-32; h11:30am-2:30pm & 5-9pm Mon-Fri, 5-9pm Sat & Sun)

Zydeco is one of Bend's most acclaimed restaurants, and with good reason. Start with the duck fries (french fries fried in duck fat) or tricolored beet salad with goat cheese, then move on to your main course: pan-roasted steelhead, crawfish jambalaya or roasted duck with mushroom gravy. Reserve.

8Information

Visit BendTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-382-8048; www.visitbend.com; 750 NW Lava Rd; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun)

Great information, plus maps, books and recreation passes available for purchase.

8Getting There & Around

Central Oregon Breeze (%541-389-7469; www.cobreeze.com) offers transport to Portland two or more times daily ($52 one-way, reserve ahead).

High Desert Point (%541-382-4193; http://oregon-point.com/highdesert-point) buses link Bend with Chemult, where the nearest train station is located (65 miles south). It also has bus services to Eugene, Ontario and Burns.

Cascades East Transit (%541-385-8680; www.cascadeseasttransit.com) is the regional bus company in Bend, covering La Pine, Mt Bachelor, Sisters, Prineville and Madras. It also provides bus transport within Bend.

Newberry National Volcanic Monument

Newberry National Volcanic Monument ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-593-2421; Hwy 97; day use $5; hMay-Sep) showcases 400,000 years of dramatic seismic activity. Start your visit at the Lava Lands Visitor Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-593-2421; 58201 S Hwy 97; h9am-5pm late May-Sep, closed Nov-May), 13 miles south of Bend. Nearby attractions include Lava Butte, a perfect cone rising 500ft, and Lava River Cave, Oregon’s longest lava tube. Four miles west of the visitor center is Benham Falls, a good picnic spot on the Deschutes River.

Newberry Crater was once one of the most active volcanoes in North America, but after a large eruption a caldera was born. Close by are Paulina Lake and East Lake, deep bodies of water rich with trout, while looming above is 7985ft Paulina Peak.

Crater Lake National Park

It’s no exaggeration: Crater Lake is so blue, you’ll catch your breath. And if you get to see it on a calm day, the surrounding cliffs are reflected in those deep waters like a mirror. It’s a stunningly beautiful sight. Crater Lake ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-594-3000; www.nps.gov/crla; 7-day vehicle pass $15) is Oregon’s only national park.

The classic tour is the 33-mile rim drive (open from approximately June to mid-October), but there are also exceptional hiking and cross-country skiing opportunities. Note that because the area receives some of the highest snowfalls in North America, the rim drive and north entrance are sometimes closed up until early July.

You can stay from late May to mid-October at the Cabins at Mazama Village ( GOOGLE MAP ; %888-774-2728; www.craterlakelodges.com; d $160; hlate May–mid-Oct; n) or the majestic Crater Lake Lodge ( GOOGLE MAP ; %888-774-2728; www.craterlakelodges.com; r from $220; hlate May–mid-Oct; nW), opened in 1915. Campers head to Mazama Campground ( GOOGLE MAP ; %888-774-2728; www.craterlakelodges.com; tent/RV sites from $22/31; hJun–mid-Oct; W#). For more information, head to Steel Visitor Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-594-3000; h9am-5pm May-Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Apr).

Oregon Coast

This magnificent littoral is paralleled by US 101, a scenic highway that winds its way through towns, resorts, state parks (more than 70 of them) and wilderness areas. Everyone from campers to gourmets will find a plethora of ways to enjoy this exceptional region, which is especially popular in summer (reserve accommodations in advance).

Astoria

Named after America's first millionaire, John Jacob Astor, Astoria sits at the 5-mile-wide mouth of the Columbia River and was the first US settlement west of the Mississippi. The city has a long seafaring history and has seen its old harbor, once home to poor artists and writers, attract fancy hotels and restaurants in recent years. Inland are many historical houses, including lovingly restored Victorians – a few converted into romantic B&Bs.

1Sights

Adding to the city’s scenery is the 4.1-mile Astoria-Megler Bridge, the longest continuous truss bridge in North America, which crosses the Columbia River into Washington state. See it from the Astoria Riverwalk, which follows the trolley route. Pier 39 is an interesting covered wharf with an informal cannery museum and a couple of places to eat.

Columbia River Maritime MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-325-2323; www.crmm.org; 1792 Marine Dr; adult/child $14/5; h9:30am-5pm; c)

Astoria's seafaring heritage is well interpreted at this wave-shaped museum. It's hard to miss the retired Coast Guard boat, frozen mid-rescue, through a huge outside window. Other exhibits highlight the salmon-packing industry and the Chinese immigrants who made up the bulk of its workforce; the river's commercial history; and the crucial job of the bar pilot. You get a keen sense of the treacherous conditions that define this area, known for good reason as the 'Graveyard of the Pacific.'

Flavel HouseHISTORIC BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-325-2203; www.cumtux.org; 441 8th St; adult/child $6/2; h11am-4pm Oct-Apr, 10am-5pm May-Sep)

The extravagant Flavel House was built by Captain George Flavel, one of Astoria's leading citizens during the 1880s. The Queen Anne house has been repainted in its original colors and the grounds have been returned to Victorian-era landscaping; it has great views of the Columbia River, too.

Fort Stevens State ParkPARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %ext 21 503-861-3170; www.oregonstateparks.org; 100 Peter Iredale Rd, Hammond; day use $5)

Ten miles west of Astoria, this park holds the historic military installation that once guarded the mouth of the Columbia River. Near the Military Museum (%503-861-2000; http://visitftstevens.com; Fort Stevens State Park; day-use fee $5; h10am-6pm May-Sep, to 4pm Oct-Apr) are gun batteries dug into sand dunes – interesting remnants of the fort's mostly demolished military stations (truck and walking tours available). There's a popular beach at the small Peter Iredale 1906 shipwreck, and good ocean views from parking lot C. There's also camping and 12 miles of paved bike trails.

4Sleeping & Eating

Fort Stevens State ParkCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-861-1671; www.oregonstateparks.org; 100 Peter Iredale Rd, Hammond; tent/RV sites $22/32, yurts/cabins $46/90)

About 560 sites (most for RVs) are available at this popular campground 10 miles west of Astoria. Great for families; reserve in summer. Entry off Pacific Dr.

Commodore HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-325-4747; www.commodoreastoria.com; 258 14th St; d with shared/private bath from $79/154; nW)

Hip travelers should make a beeline for this stylish hotel, which offers attractive but small, minimalist rooms. Choose a room with bathroom or go Euro style (sink in room, bathroom down the hall; 'deluxe' rooms have better views). There's a lounge-style lobby with cafe, free samples of local microbrews from 5pm to 7pm, an impressive movie library and record players to borrow.

BowpickerSEAFOOD$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-791-2942; www.bowpicker.com; cnr 17th & Duane St; dishes $8-10; h11am-6pm Wed-Sun)

On just about every list of great seafood shacks is this adorable place in a converted 1932 gillnet fishing boat, serving beer-battered chunks of albacore and steak fries and that's it.

Fort George BreweryPUB FOOD$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-325-7468; www.fortgeorgebrewery.com; 1483 Duane St; mains $7-16, pizzas $13-25; h11am-11pm, noon-11pm Sun)

Fort George has established itself as one of the state's best and most reliable craft brewers. Its atmospheric brewery-restaurant is in a historic building that was the original settlement site of Astoria. Apart from the excellent beer, you can get gourmet burgers, house-made sausages, salads and, upstairs, wood-fired pizza. Head to the Lovell Taproom for views over the production line.

Astoria Coffeehouse & BistroAMERICAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-325-1787; www.astoriacoffeehouse.com; 243 11th St; dinner mains $12-25; h7am-9pm Sun, to 10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat)S

Small, popular cafe with attached bistro offering an eclectic menu – things like Peruvian root-vegetable stew, wasabi wonton prawns, chili-relleno burger, fish tacos, pad Thai and mac 'n' cheese. Everything is made in-house, even the ketchup. There's sidewalk seating and excellent cocktails. Expect a wait at dinner and Sunday brunch.

LEWIS & CLARK: JOURNEY'S END

In November 1805 William Clark and his fellow explorer Meriwether Lewis of the Corps of Discovery staggered, with three dozen others, into a sheltered cove on the Columbia River, 2 miles west of the present-day Astoria-Megler Bridge, completing what was indisputably the greatest overland trek in American history.

After the first truly democratic ballot in US history (in which a woman and a black slave both voted), the party elected to make their bivouac 5 miles south of Astoria at Fort Clatsop, where the Corps spent a miserable winter in 1805–06. Today this site is called the Lewis and Clark National Historical Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-861-2471; www.nps.gov/lewi; 92343 Fort Clatsop Rd; adult/child $5/free; h9am-6pm mid-Jun–Aug, to 5pm Sep–mid-Jun). Here you’ll find a reconstructed Fort Clatsop, along with a visitor center and historical reenactments in summer.

8Getting There & Away

Northwest Point (%503-484-4100; http://oregon-point.com/northwest-point) Daily buses head to Seaside, Cannon Beach and Portland; check the website for schedules.

Pacific Transit (%360-642-9418; www.pacifictransit.org) Buses go over the border to Washington.

Cannon Beach

Charming Cannon Beach is one of the most popular beach towns on the Oregon coast. Several premier hotels here cater to a fancier clientele, as do the town's many boutiques and art galleries. In summer the streets are ablaze with flowers. Lodging is expensive, and the streets are jammed: on a warm, sunny Saturday, you'll spend a good chunk of time just finding a parking spot.

1Sights & Activities

Photogenic Haystack Rock, a 295ft seastack, is the most spectacular landmark on the Oregon coast and is accessible from the beach at low tide. Birds cling to its ballast cliffs and tide pools ring its base.

The coast to the north, protected inside Ecola State Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-436-2844; www.oregonstateparks.org; day use $5), is the Oregon you may have already visited in your dreams: sea stacks, crashing surf, hidden beaches and gorgeous pristine forest. The park is 1.5 miles from town and is crisscrossed by paths, including part of the Oregon Coast Trail, which leads over Tillamook Head to the town of Seaside.

The Cannon Beach area is good for surfing, though not the beach itself. The best spots are Indian Beach in Ecola State Park, 3 miles to the north, and Oswald West State Park, 10 miles south. Cleanline Surf Shop ( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-738-2061; www.cleanlinesurf.com; 171 Sunset Blvd; board/wet-suit rentals from $20/15; h10am-6pm Sun-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat) is a friendly local shop that rents out boards and mandatory wetsuits.

4Sleeping

Cannon Beach is pretty exclusive; for budget choices head 7 miles north to Seaside. For vacation rentals, check out www.visitcb.com.

oOcean LodgeHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %888-777-4047, 503-436-2241; www.theoceanlodge.com; 2864 S Pacific St; d $219-369; naW#)

This gorgeous place has some of Cannon Beach's most luxurious rooms, most with ocean view and all with fireplace and kitchenette. A complimentary continental breakfast, an 800-DVD library and pleasant sitting areas are available to guests. Located on the beach at the southern end of town.

5Eating & Drinking

Here you'll find everything from coffee shops to a coffee shop that doubles as a fine restaurant. If you're just after a warm cup of buttery clam chowder with a view, stop in at Mo's (www.moschowder.com).

oIrish TableIRISH$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-436-0708; 1235 S Hemlock St; mains $20-30; h5:30-9pm Fri-Tue)S

Excellent restaurant hidden at the back of the Sleepy Monk coffee shop, serving a fusion of Irish and Pacific Northwest cuisine made with local and seasonal ingredients. The menu is small and simple, but the choices are tasty; try the vegetarian shepherd's pie, lamb-loin chops or seared Piedmontese flat-iron steak. If the curried mussels are on the menu, don't hesitate.

Sleepy Monk CoffeeCOFFEE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %503-436-2796; www.sleepymonkcoffee.com; 1235 S Hemlock St; drinks & snacks $2-7; h8am-3pm Mon, Tue & Thu, to 4pm Fri-Sun)S

For organic, certified-fair-trade coffee, try this little coffee shop on the main street. Sit on an Adirondack chair in the tiny front yard and enjoy the rich brews, all tasty and roasted on the premises. Good homemade pastries, too.

8Information

Chamber of Commerce (%503-436-2623; www.cannonbeach.org; 207 N Spruce St; h10am-5pm) Has good local information, including tide tables.

8Getting There & Around

Northwest PointBUS

(%541-484-4100; www.oregon-point.com/northwest-point)

Twice-daily routes between Portland and the coast. Buy tickets online, at Portland's Union Station, or at the Astoria Transit Center. The one-way fare from Portland to Astoria is $18.

Cannon Beach ShuttleBUS

(%503-861-7433; www.ridethebus.org)

Buses between Cannon Beach and Astoria, plus other coastal stops. The Cannon Beach bus runs the length of Hemlock St to the end of Tolovana Beach; the schedule varies depending on day and season.

Tillamook County TransportationBUS

(The Wave; %503-815-8283; www.tillamookbus.com)

Buses between Astoria and Newport, with stops all along the coast.

Newport

Home to Oregon's largest commercial fishing fleet, Newport is a lively tourist city with several fine beaches and a world-class aquarium. In 2011 it became the host of NOAA (the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration). Good restaurants – along with some tacky attractions, gift shops and barking sea lions – abound in the historic bayfront area, while bohemian Nye Beach offers art galleries and a friendly village atmosphere. The area was first explored in the 1860s by fishing crews who found oyster beds at the upper end of Yaquina Bay.

1Sights

The world-class Oregon Coast Aquarium ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-867-3474; www.aquarium.org; 2820 SE Ferry Slip Rd; adult/3-12yr/13-17yr $22.95/14.95/19.95; h10am-6pm Jun-Aug, to 5pm Sep-May; c) is an unmissable attraction, featuring a sea-otter pool, surreal jellyfish tanks and Plexiglas tunnels through a shark tank. Nearby, the Hatfield Marine Science Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-867-0100; www.hmsc.oregonstate.edu; 2030 SE Marine Science Dr; h10am-5pm Jun-Aug, to 4pm Thu-Mon Sep-May; c) is much smaller, but still worthwhile.

For awesome tide-pooling and views, don’t miss the Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-574-3100; 750 NW Lighthouse Dr; vehicle fee $7; h8am-sunset, interpretive center 10am-6pm), site of the coast’s tallest lighthouse and an interesting interpretive center.

4Sleeping & Eating

Campers can head to large and popular South Beach State Park (%541-867-4715; www.oregonstateparks.org; tent/RV sites $21/29, yurts $44; #), two miles south on US101. Book-lovers can stay at the Sylvia Beach Hotel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-265-5428; www.sylviabeachhotel.com; 267 NW Cliff St; d $135-235; n) and nautical and romantic types at the shipshape Newport Belle (%541-867-6290; http://newportbelle.com; 2126 SE Marine Science Dr, South Beach Marina, H Dock; d $165-175; hFeb-Oct; nW).

For crab po'boys, pan-fried oysters and other tasty seafood, head to Local Ocean Seafoods ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-574-7959; www.localocean.net; 213 SE Bay Blvd; mains $16-28; h11am-9pm, to 8pm winter) – it’s especially great on warm days, when the glass walls open to the port area.

8Information

Visitor Center (%541-265-8801; www.newportchamber.org; 555 SW Coast Hwy; h8:30am-5pm Mon-Fri)

Yachats & Around

One of the Oregon coast's best-kept secrets is the neat and friendly little town of Yachats (ya-hots). Lying at the base of massive Cape Perpetua, Yachats offers the memorable scenery of a rugged and windswept land. People come here to get away from it all, which isn't hard to do along this relatively undeveloped stretch of coast.

Lining the town is the 804 Coast Trail, providing a lovely walk and access to tide pools and fabulous ocean vistas. It hooks up with the Amanda trail to the south, eventually arriving at Cape Perpetua Scenic Area.

oCape Perpetua Scenic AreaPARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; Hwy 101; day-use fee $5)

Located 3 miles south of Yachats, this volcanic remnant was sighted and named by England's Captain James Cook in 1778. Famous for dramatic rock formations and crashing surf, the area contains numerous trails that explore ancient shell middens, tide pools and old-growth forests. Views from the cape are incredible, taking in coastal promontories from Cape Foulweather to Cape Arago.

For spectacular ocean views, head up Overlook Rd to the Cape Perpetua day-use area.

Deep fractures in the old volcano allow waves to erode narrow channels into the headland, creating effects such as Devil's Churn, about a half-mile north of the visitor center. Waves race up this chasm, shooting up the 30ft inlet to explode against the narrowing sides of the channel. For an easy hike, take the paved Captain Cook Trail (1.2 miles round-trip) down to tide pools near Cooks Chasm, where at high tide the geyser-like spouting horn blasts water out of a sea cave. (There's also parking along Hwy 101 at Cooks Chasm.)

The Giant Spruce Trail (2 miles round-trip) leads up Cape Creek to a 500-year-old Sitka spruce with a 15ft diameter. The Cook's Ridge–Gwynn Creek Loop Trail (6.5 miles round-trip) heads into deep old-growth forests along Gwynn Creek; follow the Oregon Coast Trail south and turn up the Gwynn Creek Trail, which returns via Cook's Ridge.

The visitor center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-547-3289; www.fs.usda.gov/siuslaw; 2400 Hwy 101; vehicle fee $5; h9:30am-4:30pm Jun-Aug, 10am-4pm Sep-May) details human and natural histories, and has displays on the Alsi tribe.

Heceta Head LighthouseLIGHTHOUSE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-547-3416; Heceta.h.lighthouse@oregon.gov; day use $5; h11am-3pm, to 2pm winter)

Built in 1894 and towering precipitously above the churning ocean, this lighthouse, 13 miles south of Yachats on Hwy 101, is supremely photogenic and still functioning. Tours are available; hours may be erratic, especially in winter, so call ahead. Park at Heceta Head State Park for views.

Sea Lion CavesCAVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-547-3111; www.sealioncaves.com; 91560 Hwy 101, Florence; adult/child $14/8; h9am-5pm)

Fifteen miles south of Yachats is an enormous sea grotto that's home to hundreds of Steller sea lions. An elevator descends 208ft to a dark interpretive area, and an observation window lets you watch the sea lions jockeying for the best seat on the rocks. There are also outside observation areas, as usually from late September to November there are no sea lions in the cave. There are lots of interesting coastal birds to look for here.

Ya'Tel MotelMOTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-547-3225; www.yatelmotel.com; cnr Hwy 101 & 6th St; d $74-119; niW#)

This eight-room motel has personality, along with large, clean rooms, some with kitchenette. A large room that sleeps six is also available ($119). Look for the (changeable) sign out front, which might say something like, 'Always clean, usually friendly.'

Green Salmon Coffee HouseCAFE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-547-3077; www.thegreensalmon.com; 220 Hwy 101; coffee drinks $2-5; h7:30am-2:30pm; v)S

Organic and fair trade are big words at this eclectic cafe, where locals meet for tasty breakfast items (pastries, lox bagels, homemade oatmeal). The inventive list of hot beverages ranges from regular drip coffee to organic chocolate chai latte to lavendar rosemary cocoa. Vegan menu available, plus a used-book exchange.

Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area

Stretching for 50 miles between Florence and Coos Bay, the Oregon Dunes form the largest expanse of coastal dunes in the USA. They tower up to 500ft and undulate inland as far as three miles to meet coastal forests, harboring curious ecosystems that sustain an abundance of wildlife, especially birds. The area inspired Frank Herbert to pen his epic sci-fi Dune novels. Hiking trails, bridle paths, and boating and swimming areas are available, but avoid the stretch south of Reedsport as noisy dune buggies dominate. Find out more at the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area Visitor Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-271-6000; www.fs.usda.gov/siuslaw; 855 Hwy 101; h8am-4:30pm Mon-Sat Jun-Aug, Mon-Fri Sep-May) in Reedsport.

State parks with camping include popular Jessie M Honeyman ( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-452-5687, 541-997-3641; www.oregonstateparks.org; 84505 Hwy 101 S; tent/RV sites $21/29, yurts $44; #), 3 miles south of Florence, and pleasant, wooded Umpqua Lighthouse ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-271-4118; www.oregonstateparks.org; 460 Lighthouse Rd; tent/RV sites $19/26, yurts/deluxe yurts $41/80; #), 4 miles south of Reedsport. There’s plenty of other camping in the area, too.

Port Orford

Occupying a rare natural harbor and guarding plenty of spectacular views, the scenic hamlet of Port Orford sits on a headland wedged between two magnificent state parks. Cape Blanco State Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-332-2973; www.oregonstateparks.org; Cape Blanco Rd), nine miles to the north, is the second-most-westerly point in the continental US, and the promontory is often lashed by fierce 100mph winds. As well as hiking, visitors can tour the Cape Blanco Lighthouse ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-332-2207; www.oregonstateparks.org; 91814 Cape Blanco Rd; tour adult/child $2/free; h10am-3:15pm Wed-Mon Apr-Oct) – built in 1870, it’s the oldest and highest operational lighthouse in Oregon.

Six miles south of Port Orford, in Humbug Mountain State Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-332-6774), mountains and sea meet in aqueous disharmony, generating plenty of angry surf. You can climb the 1750ft peak on a 3-mile trail through old-growth cedar groves.

For an affordable stay try Castaway-by-the-Sea Motel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-332-4502; www.castawaybythesea.com; 545 W 5th St; d $75-135, ste $115-165; niW#); for a more luxurious cabin, Wildspring Guest Habitat (%866-333-9453; www.wildspring.com; 92978 Cemetery Loop; d $298-328; niW). Eating well in this fishing village means a visit to slick Redfish ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-366-2200; www.redfishportorford.com; Hawthorne Gallery, 517 Jefferson St; mains $18-34; h11am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-9pm Sat & Sun) for the freshest seafood in town.

Southern Oregon

With a warm, sunny and dry climate that belongs in nearby California, Southern Oregon, the state's 'banana belt,' is an exciting place to visit. Rugged and remote landscapes are entwined with a number of designated 'wild and scenic' rivers, which are famous for their challenging white-water rafting, world-class fly-fishing and excellent hiking.

Ashland

This pretty city is the cultural center of Southern Oregon thanks to its internationally renowned Oregon Shakespeare Festival (OSF), which runs for nine months of the year and attracts hundreds of thousands of theatergoers from all over the world. The festival is so popular that it's Ashland's main attraction, packing it out in summer and bringing in steady cash flows for the town's many fancy hotels, upscale B&Bs and fine restaurants.

Even without the OSF, however, Ashland is still a pleasant place whose trendy downtown streets buzz with well-heeled shoppers and youthful bohemians. In late fall and early winter – those few months when the festival doesn't run – folks come to ski at nearby Mt Ashland. And wine-lovers, take note: the area has several good wineries worth seeking out.

1Sights & Activities

Lithia ParkPARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; 59 Winburn Way)

Adjacent to Ashland's three splendid theaters lies what is arguably the loveliest city park in Oregon, the 93 acres of which wind along Ashland Creek above the center of town. Unusually, the park is in the National Register of Historic Places. It is embellished with fountains, flowers, gazebos and an ice-skating rink (winter only), plus a playground and woodsy trails.

Schneider Museum of ArtMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-552-6245; http://sma.sou.edu; 1250 Siskiyou Blvd; suggested donation $5; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat)

If you like contemporary art, check out this Southern Oregon University museum, where new exhibitions go up every month or so. The university also puts on theater and opera performances, along with classical concerts.

Siskiyou CycleryCYCLING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-482-1997; www.siskiyoucyclery.com; 1729 Siskiyou Blvd; half-/full-day rental $30/45; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat)

Rent a bicycle and explore the countryside on Bear Creek Greenway, a 21-mile bike path between Ashland and the town of Central Point.

DON'T MISS

OREGON SHAKESPEARE FESTIVAL

As a young town, Ashland was included in the Methodist Church's cultural education program, called the Chautauqua Series. By the 1930s, one of the venues, Chautauqua Hall, had deteriorated to a dilapidated wooden shell. Angus Bowmer, a drama professor at the local college, noted the resemblance of the roofless structure to drawings of Shakespeare's Globe Theatre. He convinced the town to sponsor two performances of Shakespeare's plays and a boxing match (the Bard would have approved) as part of its 1935 July 4 celebration. The plays proved a great success, and the OSF (OSF; GOOGLE MAP ; %541-482-4331; www.osfashland.org; cnr Main & Pioneer Sts; tickets $30-136; hTue-Sun Feb-Oct) was off and running.

Though it's rooted in Shakespearean and Elizabethan drama, the OSF also does revivals and international contemporary theater. Eleven productions run in three theaters: the outdoor Elizabethan Theatre (June to October), the Angus Bowmer Theatre and the intimate Thomas Theatre. No children under six. Performances sell out quickly, but the box office sometimes has (usually discounted) rush tickets an hour before showtime.

Check with the OSF Welcome Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; 76 N Main St; h11am-5pm Tue-Sun) for other events, including scholarly lectures, play readings, concerts and pre-show talks. There are backstage tours (adult/child $20/14), which should be booked a week or so in advance.

4Sleeping

From May to October, try to arrive with reservations. Rooms are cheaper in Medford, 12 miles north of Ashland.

Ashland HostelHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-482-9217; www.theashlandhostel.com; 150 N Main St; dm $29, s/d from $45/55; naiW)

his is a central and somewhat upscale hostel (shoes off inside!) in a bungalow on the National Registry. Most private rooms share bathrooms; some can be connected to dorms. Hangout spaces include the cozy basement living room and the shady front porch. No pets, and no alcohol or smoking on the premises; call ahead, as reception times are limited.

PalmBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-482-2636; www.palmcottages.com; 1065 Siskiyou Blvd; d $75-249; naWs#)

Fabulous small motel remodeled into 16 charming garden-cottage rooms and suites (some with kitchens). It's an oasis of green on a busy avenue, complete with grassy lawns and a saltwater pool. Check online for discounted rates. A house nearby harbors three large suites (from $249). No breakfast, but it's right next to the popular Morning Glory cafe.

5Eating & Drinking

Morning GloryCAFE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-488-8636; 1149 Siskiyou Blvd; mains $9.50-15; h8am-1:30pm)

This colorful, casual cafe is one of Ashland's best breakfast joints. Creative dishes include the Alaskan-crab omelet, vegetarian hash with roasted chilies, and shrimp cakes with poached eggs. For lunch there's gourmet salad and sandwiches. Go early or late to avoid a long wait.

AgaveMEXICAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-488-1770; www.agavetaco.net; 5 Granite St; tacos $3.75-5; h11am-8pm Sun-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat, later in summer)

Tasty and creative tacos are cooked up at this popular restaurant. There's the regular stuff such as carnitas (little meats) and grilled chicken, but for something more exotic go for the shredded duck or sautéed lobster ($9.95). There's ceviche, salads and tamales, too.

Caldera BrewingBREWPUB$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-482-4677; www.calderabrewing.com; 590 Clover Lane; mains $13-23; h11am-10pm; c)

This bright, airy brewery-restaurant just off I-5 has pleasant outdoor seating and views of the countryside. It's kid friendly until 10pm and serves pizza, fancy pasta, burgers and good salads. Wash it all down with one of the 40 beers on tap. Also located at 31 Water St, on the river in downtown Ashland, with more of a cozy pub atmosphere.

GreenleafDINER$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-482-2808; www.greenleafrestaurant.com; 49 N Main St; mains $10-21; h8am-8pm; v)S

This casual diner, with booths as well as counter seating, focuses on sustainable ingredients in innovative combinations. There are lots of vegetarian options, and the specials board is well worth checking out, although the regular menu is so massive that you might not ever need to venture that far. There's a whole gluten-free menu, too.

AmuseFRENCH$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-488-9000; www.amuserestaurant.com; 15 N 1st St; mains $26-38; h5:30-9pm Wed-Sun)

Amuse is a fine French bistro serving dishes like Parisian gnocchi, pan-seared scallops and truffle-roasted game hen. Dessert means bittersweet chocolate-truffle cake and warm beignets with crème anglaise. Reserve.

8Information

Ashland Chamber of CommerceTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-482-3486; www.ashlandchamber.com; 110 E Main St; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)

Jacksonville

This small but endearing ex-gold-prospecting town is the oldest settlement in southern Oregon and a National Historic Landmark. The main drag is lined with well-preserved buildings dating from the 1880s, now converted into boutiques and galleries. Music lovers shouldn’t miss the September Britt Festival ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-773-6077; www.brittfest.org; cnr 1st & Fir Sts; hJun-Sep), a world-class musical experience with top-name performers. Seek more enlightenment at the Chamber of Commerce ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-899-8118; www.jacksonvilleoregon.org; 185 N Oregon St; h10am-3pm daily May-Oct, to 2pm Mon-Sat Nov-Apr).

Jacksonville is full of fancy B&Bs; for budget motels head 6 miles east to Medford. The Jacksonville Inn ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-899-1900; 175 E California St; r $159-325; naW#) is the most pleasant abode, shoehorned downtown in an 1863 building with regal antique-stuffed rooms. There’s a fine restaurant on-site.

North Umpqua River

This ‘Wild and Scenic’ river boasts world-class fly-fishing, fine hiking and serene camping. The 79-mile North Umpqua Trail begins near Idleyld Park, 3 miles east of Glide, and passes through Steamboat en route to the Pacific Crest Trail. A popular sideline is pretty Umpqua Hot Springs, east of Steamboat near Toketee Lake. Not far away, stunning, two-tiered Toketee Falls (113ft) flows over columnar basalt, while Watson Falls (272ft) is one of the highest waterfalls in Oregon. For information, stop by Glide’s Colliding Rivers Information Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-496-3532; 18782 N Umpqua Hwy, Glide; h9am-5pm May-Sep). Adjacent is the North Umpqua Ranger District ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-496-3532; 18782 N Umpqua Hwy, Glide; h8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri).

Between Idleyld Park and Diamond Lake are dozens of riverside campgrounds; these include lovely Susan Creek and primitive Boulder Flat (no water). Area accommodations fill up quickly in summer; try the log cabin–like rooms at Dogwood Motel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-496-3403; www.dogwoodmotel.com; 28866 N Umpqua Hwy, Idleyld Park; s/d from $60/70; naW#).

Oregon Caves National Monument & Preserve

This very popular cave (singular) lies 19 miles east of Cave Junction on Hwy 46. Three miles of passages are explored via 90-minute cave tours that include 520 rocky steps and dripping chambers running along the River Styx. Dress warmly, wear shoes with good traction and be prepared to get dripped on.

Cave Junction, 28 miles south of Grants Pass on US 199 (Redwood Hwy), provides the region’s services – though one of the best accommodations in the area is Out 'n' About Treesort ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-592-2208; www.treehouses.com; 300 Page Creek Rd, Takilma; tree houses $150-330; n) – super-fun treehouses in Katilma, 12 miles south. For fancy lodgings right at the cave there’s the impressive Oregon Caves Chateau ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-592-3400; www.oregoncaveschateau.com; 20000 Caves Hwy; r $117-212; hMay-Oct; n) – grab a milkshake at the old-fashioned soda fountain here.

Eastern Oregon

Oregon east of the Cascades bears little resemblance to its wetter western cohort, either physically or culturally. Few people live here – the biggest town, Pendleton, numbers only 17,000 – and the region holds high plateaus, painted hills, alkali lake-beds and the country’s deepest river gorge.

John Day Fossil Beds National Monument

Within the soft rocks and crumbly soils of John Day country lies one of the world’s greatest fossil collections, laid down between six and 50 million years ago. The national monument includes 22 sq miles at three different units: Sheep Rock Unit, Painted Hills Unit and Clarno Unit. Each has hiking trails and interpretive displays.

Visit the excellent Thomas Condon Paleontology Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-987-2333; www.nps.gov/joda; 32651 Hwy 19, Kimberly; h10am-5pm), 2 miles north of US 26 at the Sheep Rock Unit. Displays include a three-toed horse and petrified dung-beetle balls, along with many other fossils and geologic history exhibits. If you feel like walking, take the short hike up the Blue Basin Trail.

The Painted Hills Unit, near the town of Mitchell, consists of low-slung, colorfully banded hills formed about 30 million years ago. Ten million years older is the Clarno Unit, which exposes mud flows that washed over an Eocene-era forest and eroded into distinctive, sheer white cliffs topped with spires and turrets of stone.

Rafting is popular on the John Day River, the longest free-flowing river in the state. Oregon River Experiences (%800-827-1358; www.oregonriver.com; 4/5/9-day trips per person $635/735/1195; hMay-Jun) offers trips of up to five days. There’s also good fishing for smallmouth bass and rainbow trout; find out more at the Oregon Department of Fish & Wildlife (www.dfw.state.or.us).

Most towns in the area have at least one hotel; these include the atmospheric Historic Oregon Hotel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-462-3027; www.theoregonhotel.net; 104 E Main St, Mitchell; dm $20, d $50-110; W) in Mitchell. The town of John Day has most of the district’s services and there are several public campgrounds in the area (sites $5), including Lone Pine and Big Bend, both on Hwy 402.

Wallowa Mountains Area

The Wallowa Mountains, with their glacier-hewn peaks and crystalline lakes, are among the most beautiful natural areas in Oregon. The only drawback is the large number of visitors who flock here in summer, especially to the pretty Wallowa Lake area.

Escape them all on one of several long hikes into the nearby Eagle Cap Wilderness, such as the 6-mile one-way jaunt to Aneroid Lake or the 8-mile trek on the Ice Lake Trail.

Just north of the mountains, in the Wallowa Valley, Enterprise is a homely backcountry town with several motels – try the Ponderosa ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-426-3186; 102 E Greenwood St; s/d from $69/75; aW#). If you like beer and good food, don’t miss the town’s microbrewery, Terminal Gravity Brewing ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-426-3000; www.terminalgravitybrewing.com; 803 SE School St; mains $9-14; h11am-9pm Sun, Mon & Wed, to 10pm Thu-Sat). Just 6 miles south is Enterprise’s fancy cousin, the upscale town of Joseph. Expensive bronze galleries and artsy boutiques line the main strip, along with some good eateries.

Hells Canyon

The mighty Snake River has taken 13 million years to carve its path through the high plateaus of eastern Oregon to its present depth of 8000ft, creating Aerica's deepest gorge.

For perspective, drive 30 miles northeast from Joseph to Imnaha, where a slow-going 24-mile gravel road leads up to Hat Point. From here you can see the Wallowa Mountains, Idaho’s Seven Devils, the Imnaha River and the wilds of the canyon itself. This road is open from late May until snowfall; give yourself two hours each way for the drive.

For white-water action and spectacular scenery, head down to Hells Canyon Dam, 25 miles north of the small community of Oxbow. A few miles past the dam, the road ends at the Hells Canyon Visitors Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; Hells Canyon Rd, Hells Canyon Dam; h8am-4pm May-Oct), which has good advice on the area’s campgrounds and hiking trails. Beyond here, the Snake River drops 1300ft through wild rapids accessible only by jet boat or raft. Hells Canyon Adventures (%800-422-3568; www.hellscanyonadventures.com; jet-boat tours adult/child from $75/38; hMay-Sep) is the main operator running raft trips and jet-boat tours (reservations required).

The area has many campgrounds and more solid lodgings. Just outside Imnaha is the beautiful Imnaha River Inn (%541-577-6002; www.imnahariverinn.com; 73946 Rimrock Rd; s/d from $70/130), a B&B replete with Hemingway-esque animal trophies. For more services, head to the towns of Enterprise, Joseph and Halfway.

Steens Mountain & Alvord Desert

The highest peak in southeastern Oregon, Steens Mountain (9773ft) is part of a massive, 30-mile-long fault-block range that was formed about 15 million years ago.

Beginning in Frenchglen, the gravel 59-mile Steens Mountain Loop Rd is Oregon’s highest road, offers the range’s best sights, and has access to camping and hiking trails. You’ll see sagebrush, bands of juniper and aspen forests, and finally fragile rocky tundra at the top. Kiger Gorge Viewpoint, 25 miles up from Frenchglen, is especially stunning. It takes about three hours all the way around if you’re just driving through, but you’ll want to see the sights, so give yourself much more time. You can also see the eastern side of the Steens via the Fields-Denio Rd, which goes through the Alvord Desert between Hwys 205 and 78. Take a full tank of gas and plenty of water, and be prepared for weather changes at any time of year.

Frenchglen, with a population of roughly 12, nonetheless supports the historic Frenchglen Hotel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %541-493-2825; www.frenchglenhotel.com; 39184 Hwy 205; r with shared bath $75-82, Drovers' Inn s/d $115/135; hmid-Mar–Oct; na#), with eight small rooms, huge meals (reserve for dinners), a small store with a seasonal gas pump and not much else. There are camping options on the Steens Mountain Loop Rd, such as the BLM’s pretty Page Springs ($8 per vehicle, open year-round). A few other campgrounds further into the loop are very pleasant, but accessible in summer only. Water is available at all of these campgrounds. Free backcountry camping is also allowed in the Steens.