Hawaii

Why Go?

Truth: this string of emerald islands in the cobalt blue Pacific, more than 2000 miles from any continent, takes work to get to. And besides, aren't the beaches totally crushed by sunbaked tourists and cooing honeymooners? Cue the galloping Hawaii Five-0 theme music and lei-draped beauties dancing hula beneath wind-rustled palms.

Hawaii, as tourist bureaus and Hollywood constantly remind us, is 'paradise.' Push past the hype and you may find they're not far wrong. Hawaii is diving into coral-reef cities in the morning and listening to slack key guitar at sunset. It's biting into juicy lilikoʻi (passion fruit) with hibiscus flowers in your hair. These Polynesian islands show off nature's diversity at its most divine, from fiery volcanoes to lacy rainforest waterfalls to crystal-clear aquamarine bays.

Locals know Hawaii isn't always paradise, but on any given day it can sure feel like it.

When to Go

ADec–Apr Slightly cooler, wetter weather; peak season for tourism, surfing and whale-watching.

AMay–Sep Mostly sunny, cloudless days; summer vacation keeps beaches and resorts busy.

AOct–Nov Hotter, humid weather; fewer visitors mean cheaper accommodations.

Best Places to Eat

A Alan Wong's

A Hy's Steakhouse

A KCC Farmers Market

A Umekes

A Frida's Mexican Beach House

Best Places to Sleep

A Halekulani

A Four Seasons Resort Hualalai

A Royal Grove Hotel

A Hanalei Dolphin Cottages

A Pineapple Inn Maui

Hawaii Highlights

1 Honolulu Exploring multicultural Honolulu with its eye-popping museums and ethnic eats.

2 Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve Snorkeling with tropical fish and sea turtles.

3 Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park Witnessing the eruptions of a living volcano.

4 Mauna Kea Stargazing atop Hawaii’s highest mountain on the Big Island.

5 Haleakalā National Park Catching dawn over the ‘house of the rising sun.'

6 Maui Driving the twisting seaside Hana Hwy past black-sand beaches and jungle waterfalls.

7 Kaua'i Trekking the sculpted sea cliffs of the dramatic Na Pali Coast.

8 Wailua River Kayaking this sacred river to waterfall swimming holes.

History

Hawaii's discovery and colonization is one of humanity's great epic tales, starting with ancient Polynesians who found their way to these tiny islands – the world's most isolated – in the midst of Earth's largest ocean. Almost a millennium passed before Western explorers, whalers, missionaries and entrepreneurs arrived on ships. During the tumultuous 19th century, global immigrants came to work on Hawaii's plantations. In 1893 the kingdom founded by Kamehameha the Great was overthrown, making way for US annexation.

Local Culture

Hawaii may be a Polynesian paradise, but it's one with shopping malls, landfills and industrial parks, cookie-cutter housing developments and sprawling military bases. In many ways, it's much like the rest of the USA. A first-time visitor stepping off the plane may be surprised to find a thoroughly modern place where interstate highways and McDonald's look pretty much the same as back on 'da mainland.'

Underneath the veneer of consumer culture and the tourist industry is a different world, defined by – and proud of – its separateness, its geographic isolation and its unique blend of Polynesian, Asian and Western traditions. While those cultures don't always merge seamlessly in Hawaii, there are few places in the world where so many ethnicities, with no single group commanding a majority, get along.

Perhaps it's because they live on tiny islands in the middle of a vast ocean that Hawaii residents strive to treat one another with aloha, act politely and respectfully, and 'make no waves' (ie be cool). As the Hawaiian saying goes, ʻWe're all in the same canoe.' No matter their race or background, residents share a common bond: an awareness of living in one of the planet's most bewitchingly beautiful places.

Language

Hawaii has two official languages: English and Hawaiian. While Hawaiian's multisyllabic, vowel-heavy words may look daunting, the pronunciation is actually quite straightforward and with a little practice, you'll soon get the hang of it. There's also an unofficial vernacular, pidgin (formerly referred to as Hawaiʻi Creole English), which has a laid-back, lilting accent and a colorful vocabulary that permeates everyday speech.

The ʻokina punctuation mark (ʻ) is the Hawaiian language's glottal stop, which determines the pronunciation and meaning of words. In this guide, Hawaiʻi (with the ʻokina) refers to the island of Hawaiʻi (the Big Island), to ancient Hawaiʻi and to the Kingdom of Hawaiʻi pre-statehood. Hawaii (without the ʻokina) refers to the US territory that became a state in 1959.

HAWAII IN...

Four Days

Anyone on a trans-Pacific stopover will land at Honolulu, so spend the few days you have on Oʻahu. In between surfing and sunning on Waikiki Beach, check out Honolulu’s museums and wander Chinatown, summit Diamond Head and snorkel Hanauma Bay. In winter admire gargantuan waves on the North Shore.

One Week

With a week, fit in another island – say, Maui. Explore the old whaling town of Lahaina, head to Haleakalā National Park to see sunrise at the volcano’s summit, take a whale-watching cruise, snorkel or dive Molokini crater, drive the serpentine Hana Hwy and swim in waterfall pools at Oheʻo Gulch.

Two Weeks

With two weeks, tack on a third island. On Hawaiʻi, the Big Island, lounge on golden beaches in North Kona and South Kohala; visit coffee farms in South Kona; summit Hawaii’s highest peak, Mauna Kea; and say aloha to the goddess Pele at Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park. If you choose Kauaʻi, kayak the Wailua River to take a dip in a jungle waterfall, hike in spectacular Waimea Canyon and Kokeʻe State Park, hang 10 at Hanalei Bay, and trek or paddle past towering sea cliffs on the Na Pali Coast.

Oʻahu

Oʻahu attacks your senses. Tropical aromas and temperatures, turquoise waters, a kaleidoscope of colorful fish, verdant rainforest and sensuous scenery, plus so much to do.

Spam, surfing, hula, ukulele, pidgin, rubbah slippah (flip-flops) – these are just some of the touchstones of everyday life on Oʻahu, an island out in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. People are easygoing, low-key and casual, bursting with genuine aloha and fun. Everyone knows how lucky they are to be living in this tropical paradise and Oʻahu proudly maintains its own identity apart from the US mainland. You’ll feel welcome whether you’re a globe-trotting surf bum, a fresh-faced honeymoon couple or part of a big ʻohana (extended family) with grandparents and kids tagging along.

Honolulu

Here in Honolulu, away from the crowded haunts of Waikiki, you get to shake hands with the real Hawaii. A boisterous Polynesian capital, Honolulu delivers an island-style mixed plate of experiences.

Eat your way through the pan-Asian alleys of Chinatown, where 19th-century whalers once brawled and immigrant traders thrived. Gaze out to sea atop the landmark Aloha Tower, then sashay past Victorian-era brick buildings, including the USA’s only royal palace. Browse at the world's largest open-air shopping center at Ala Moana, then poke your nose into the city's impressive art museums.

Ocean breezes rustle palm trees along the harborfront, while in the cool, mist-shrouded Koʻolau Range, forested hiking trails offer postcard city views. At sunset, cool off with an amble around Magic Island or splash in the ocean at Ala Moana Beach. After dark, migrate to Chinatown’s edgy art and nightlife scene.

1Sights & Activities

Honolulu’s compact downtown is just a lei’s throw from the harborfront. Nearby, the buzzing streets of Chinatown are packed with food markets, antiques shops, art galleries and hip bars. Between downtown and Waikiki, Ala Moana has Hawaii’s biggest mall and the city’s best beach. The University of Hawai’i campus is a gateway to the Manoa Valley. A few outlying sights, including the Bishop Museum, are worth putting into your schedule.

oBishop MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-847-3511; www.bishopmuseum.org; 1525 Bernice St; adult/child $23/15; h9am-5pm; pc)S

Like Hawaii’s version of the Smithsonian Institute in Washington, DC, the Bishop Museum showcases a remarkable array of cultural and natural history exhibits. It is often ranked as the finest Polynesian anthropological museum in the world. Founded in 1889 in honor of Princess Bernice Pauahi Bishop, a descendant of the Kamehameha dynasty, it originally housed only Hawaiian and royal artifacts. These days it honors all of Polynesia. Book online for reduced admission rates.

oChinatown MarketsMARKET

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.chinatownnow.com; h8am-6pm)

The commercial heart of Chinatown revolves around its markets and food shops. Noodle factories, pastry shops and produce stalls line the narrow sidewalks, always crowded with cart-pushing grandmothers and errand-running families. An institution since 1904, the Oʻahu Market sells everything a Chinese cook needs: ginger root, fresh octopus, quail eggs, jasmine rice, slabs of tuna, long beans and salted jellyfish. You owe yourself a bubble tea if you spot a pig’s head among the stalls.

oʻIolani PalacePALACE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-522-0832; www.iolanipalace.org; 364 S King St; grounds free, basement galleries adult/child $7/3, self-guided audio tour $15/6, guided tour $22/6; h9am-4pm Mon-Sat)

No other place evokes a more poignant sense of Hawaii’s history. The palace was built under King David Kalakaua in 1882. At that time, the Hawaiian monarchy observed many of the diplomatic protocols of the Victorian world. The king traveled abroad meeting with leaders around the globe and received foreign emissaries here. Although the palace was modern and opulent for its time, it did little to assert Hawaii’s sovereignty over powerful US-influenced business interests, who overthrew the kingdom in 1893.

Blue Hawaiian HelicoptersSCENIC FLIGHTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-831-8800; www.bluehawaiian.com; 99 Kaulele Pl; 45min flight per person $240)

This may well be the most exciting thing you do on Oʻahu. The 45-minute Blue Skies of Oʻahu flight takes in Honolulu, Waikiki, Diamond Head, Hanauma Bay and the whole of the Windward Coast, then the North Shore, central Oʻahu and Pearl Harbor. Everything you need to know, including video clips, is on the website. Book well ahead.

4Sleeping

Hostelling International (HI) HonoluluHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-946-0591; www.hostelsaloha.com; 2323a Seaview Ave, University Area; dm/r $25/60; hreception 8am-noon & 4pm-midnight; piW)

Along a quiet residential side street near the UH Manoa campus, this tidy, low-slung house just a short bus ride from Waikiki has same-sex dorms and basic private rooms kept cool by the tradewinds. Some students crash here while looking for apartments, so it’s often full. It has a kitchen, a laundry room, lockers and two free parking spaces.

Aston at the Executive Centre HotelHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %855-945-4090; www.astonexecutivecentre.com; 1088 Bishop St, Downtown; rooms from $209; niWs)

Honolulu’s only downtown hotel is geared for business travelers and extended stays. Large, modern suites with floor-to-ceiling windows get kitchenettes, while one-bedroom condos add a full kitchen and washer/dryer. A fitness center, heated lap pool and complimentary continental breakfast round out the executive-class amenities. Convenient to the restaurants of Downtown and Chinatown.

5Eating

oTamura's PokeSEAFOOD$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-735-7100; www.tamurasfinewine.com/pokepage.html; 3496 Wai'alae Ave, Kaimuki; h11am-8:45pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-8:45pm Sat, 9:30am-7:45pm Sun; p)

Arguably the best poke on the island is up on Wai'alae Rd in undistinguished-looking Tamura's Fine Wines & Liquors. Head inside, turn right, wander down to poke corner and feast your eyes. The 'spicy ahi' and the smoked marlin are to die for. Ask for tasters before you buy and take away.

Agu Ramen BistroJAPANESE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-797-2933; www.aguramen.com; 925 Isenberg St, University area; ramen from $13; h11am-11pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri-Sun)

A sturdy range of delicious ramen noodle options with chicken- or pork-based broth is backed up by delicious small plates such as ban ban ji kurage (crunchy jellyfish), ikageso (deep-fried squid legs) and fried mimiga (pig ears). Japanese beer, sake, shochu, Okinawan awamori and Kenzo Estate wines from California are also on offer. Parking out front.

oAlan Wong'sHAWAII REGIONAL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-949-2526; www.alanwongs.com; 1857 S King St, Ala Moana & Around; mains from $35; h5-10pm)S

One of Oʻahu’s big-gun chefs, Alan Wong offers his creative interpretations of Hawaii Regional Cuisine (HRC; Hawaii’s homegrown cuisine) with a menu inspired by the state's diverse ethnic cultures. Emphasis is on fresh seafood and local produce. Order Wong’s time-tested signature dishes such as ginger-crusted onaga (red snapper), steamed shellfish bowl, and twice-cooked kalbi (short ribs). Make reservations weeks in advance.

6Drinking & Nightlife

oLa Mariana Sailing ClubBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-848-2800; www.lamarianasailingclub.com; 50 Sand Island Access Rd, Greater Honolulu; h11am-9pm)

Time warp! Who says all the great tiki bars have gone to the dogs? Irreverent and kitschy, this 1950s joint by the lagoon is filled with yachties and long-suffering locals. Classic mai tais are as killer as the other tropical potions, complete with tiki-head swizzle sticks and tiny umbrellas. Grab a waterfront table and dream of sailing to Tahiti.

oTea at 1024TEAHOUSE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-521-9596; www.teaat1024.net; 1024 Nuʻuanu Ave, Chinatown; h11am-2pm Tue-Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun)

Tea at 1024 takes you back in time to another era. Cutesy sandwiches, scones and cakes accompany your choice of tea as you relax and watch the Chinatown crowd rush by the window. They even have bonnets for you to don to add to the ambience. Set menus run from $22.95 per person and reservations are recommended.

8Information

There are staffed tourist-information desks in the airport arrivals areas. While you're waiting for your bags to appear on the carousel, you can peruse racks of free tourist brochures and magazines, which contain discount coupons for activities, tours, restaurants etc.

For pre-trip planning in several languages, browse the information-packed website of the Hawaii Visitors & Convention Bureau (www.gohawaii.com).

8Getting There & Around

Most visitors to Oʻahu arrive via Honolulu International Airport. Flights, cars and tours can be booked online at lonelyplanet.com/bookings.

Honolulu is the gateway to Hawaii. It has flights from major North American cities as well as Asia and Australia. It is also a hub of interisland service for flights serving the neighboring islands.

Honolulu International Airport (HNL; GOOGLE MAP ; %808-836-6411; http://hawaii.gov/hnl; 300 Rodgers Blvd; W), Oʻahu's main commercial airport, is about 6 miles northwest of Downtown Honolulu and 9 miles northwest of Waikiki. The airport is run by the local government, which gives it a certain throwback character: shopping is limited and food concessions are paltry but gate areas have large and restful seat areas that haven't been replaced by commerce. It even has a beautiful and mostly secret outdoor tropical garden near gate 49. Wait for your flight sniffing plumeria rather than fast food.

The public transit system is comprehensive and convenient. You can get a bus to most parts of Oʻahu, but to explore thoroughly and reach off-the-beaten-path sights, you’ll need your own wheels.

LGBT HAWAII

The state of Hawaii has strong minority protections and a constitutional guarantee of privacy that extends to sexual behavior between consenting adults. Same-sex couples have the right to marry.

Locals tend to be private about their personal lives, so you will not see much public hand-holding or open displays of affection, either same-sex or opposite-sex. Everyday LGBTQ life is low-key – it's more about picnics and potlucks, not nightclubs. Even in Waikiki, the laid-back gay scene comprises just a half dozen or so bars, clubs and restaurants.

That said, Hawaii is a popular destination for LGBTQ travelers, who are served by a small network of gay-owned and gay-friendly B&Bs, guesthouses and hotels. For more information on recommended places to stay, beaches, events and more, check out the following resources:

Out Traveler (www.outtraveler.com/hawaii) LGBTQ-oriented Hawaii travel articles free online.

Pride Guide Hawaii (www.gogayhawaii.com) Free island visitor guides for gay-friendly activities, accommodations, dining, nightlife, shopping, festivals, weddings and more.

Hawaiʻi LGBT Legacy Foundation (http://hawaiilgbtlegacyfoundation.com) News, resources and a community calendar of LGBTQ events, mostly on Oʻahu.

Gay Hawaii (http://gayhawaii.com) Short listings of LGBTQ-friendly businesses, beaches and community resources on Oʻahu, Maui, Kauaʻi and Hawaiʻi, the Big Island.

Purple Roofs (www.purpleroofs.com) Online directory of gay-owned and gay-friendly B&Bs, vacation rentals, guesthouses and hotels.

Waikiki

Once a Hawaiian royal retreat, Waikiki revels in its role as a retreat for the masses. This famous strand of sand moves to a rhythm of Hawaiian music at beachfront high-rises and resorts. In this pulsing jungle of modern hotels and malls, you can, surprisingly, still hear whispers of Hawaii’s past, from the chanting of hula troupes at Kuhio Beach to the legacy of Olympic gold medalist Duke Kahanamoku.

Take a surfing lesson from a bronzed instructor, then spend a lazy afternoon lying on Waikiki’s golden sands. Before the sun sinks below the horizon, hop aboard a catamaran and sail off toward Diamond Head. Sip a sunset mai tai and be hypnotized by the lilting harmonies of slack key guitar, then mingle with the colorful locals, many of whom have made this their lifetime playground, who come here to party after dark too.

1Sights

Yes, the beach is the main sight, but Waikiki also has historic hotels, evocative public art, amazing artifacts of Hawaiian history, and even a zoo and aquarium.

oRoyal Hawaiian HotelHISTORIC BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-923-7311; www.royal-hawaiian.com; 2259 Kalakaua Ave; htours 1pm Tue & Thu)F

With its Moorish-style turrets and archways, this gorgeously restored 1927 art-deco landmark, dubbed the ‘Pink Palace,’ is a throwback to the era when Rudolph Valentino was the romantic idol and travel to Hawaii was by Matson Navigation luxury liner. Its guest list reads like a who’s-who of A-list celebrities, from royalty to Rockefellers, along with luminaries such as Charlie Chaplin and Babe Ruth. Today, historic tours explore the architecture and lore of this grande dame.

Kuhio Beach ParkBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP ; c)

If you’re the kind of person who wants it all, this beach offers everything from protected swimming to outrigger-canoe rides, and even a free sunset-hula and Hawaiian-music show. You’ll find restrooms, outdoor showers, a snack bar and beach-gear-rental stands at Waikiki Beach Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; off Kalakaua Ave), near the police substation. Also here is the Kuhio Beach Surfboard Lockers ( GOOGLE MAP ; off Kalakaua Ave, Kuhio Beach Park), an iconic storage area for local surfers. World-famous Canoes (Pops; GOOGLE MAP ) surf break is right offshore – you can spend hours watching surfers of all types riding the curls.

oQueen's Surf BeachBEACH

(Wall's; GOOGLE MAP ; off Kalakaua Ave, Kap‘iolani Beach Park; c)

Just south of Kuhio Beach, the namesake beach for the famous surf break is a great place for families as the waves are rarely large when they reach shore but they are still large enough for bodyboarding, which means older kids can frolic for hours. At the south end of the beach, the area in front of the beach pavilion is popular with the local gay community.

oWizard Stones of KapaemahuSTATUE

( GOOGLE MAP ; off Kalakaua Ave, Kuhio Beach Park)

Near the police substation at Waikiki Beach Center, four ordinary-looking boulders are actually the legendary Wizard Stones of Kapaemahu, said to contain the mana (spiritual essence) of four wizards who came to Oʻahu from Tahiti around AD 400. According to ancient legend, the wizards helped the island residents by relieving their aches and pains, and their fame became widespread. As a tribute when the wizards left, the islanders placed the four boulders where the wizards had lived.

HAWAII FOR KIDS

There's not too much to worry about when visiting Hawaii with kids, as long as you keep them covered in sunblock. Here, coastal temperatures rarely drop below 65°F and driving distances are relatively short. Just don't try to do or see too much, especially not if it's your first trip to Hawaii. Slow down and hang loose!

ATravel with Children (Lonely Planet) Loaded with valuable tips and amusing tales, especially for first-time parents.

ALonelyplanet.com Ask questions and get advice from other travelers in the Thorn Tree's online 'Kids to Go' and 'USA' forums.

AGo Hawaii (www.gohawaii.com) The state's official tourism site lists family-friendly activities, special events and more – easily search the site using terms such as ʻkids' or ʻfamily.'

2Activities

oOʻahu DivingDIVING

(%808-721-4210; www.oahudiving.com; 2-dive trips for beginners $130)

Specializes in first-time experiences for beginner divers without certification, as well as deep-water boat dives offshore and PADI refresher classes if you’re already certified and have some experience under your diving belt. Trips depart from various locations near Waikiki.

oSnorkel Bob'sSNORKELING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-735-7944; www.snorkelbob.com; 700 Kapahulu Ave; snorkel set rental per week from $9; h8am-5pm)

A top spot to get your gear. Rates vary depending on the quality of the snorkeling gear and accessories packages, but excellent weekly discounts are available and online reservations taken. You can even rent gear on Oʻahu, then return it to a Snorkel Bob's location on another island.

4Sleeping

Waikiki’s main beachfront strip, along Kalakaua Ave, is lined with hotels and sprawling resorts. Some of them are true beauties with either historic or boutique atmosphere. Most are aimed at the masses, however.

Further from the sand, look for inviting small hotels on Waikiki’s backstreets. Many are quite affordable year-round. And don't forget the hundreds of condos, time-shares and apartments on offer on Airbnb (www.airbnb.com) and HomeAway (www.homeaway.com) etc.

oRoyal Grove HotelHOTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-923-7691; www.royalgrovehotel.com; 161 Uluniu Ave; r per night/week from $90/550; ais)

No frills but plenty of aloha characterize this kitschy, candy-pink, six-story hotel that attracts so many returning snowbirds it’s nearly impossible to get a room in winter without reservations. Retro motel-style rooms in the main wing are basic but do have balconies. All rooms have kitchenettes. Inquire about discounted weekly off-season rates. Great budget option.

Waikiki Prince HotelHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-922-1544; www.waikikiprince.com; 2431 Prince Edward St; r from $120; paW)

Forget about ocean views and never mind the cramped check-in office at this six-story, 1970s-era apartment complex on an anonymous side street. Inside this standout budget option are 29 compact yet cheery rooms with kitchenettes that feel fresh and modern after a 2017 renovation. Weekly rates are available year-round. A good budget option.

oHalekulaniRESORT$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-923-2311; www.halekulani.com; 2199 Kalia Rd; r from $490; paiWs)

Evincing modern sophistication, this family-owned resort lives up to its name, which means ʻHouse Befitting Heaven.’ It’s an all-encompassing experience of gracious living, not merely a place to crash. Meditative calm washes over you immediately as you step onto the lobby’s cool stone tiles. The design focuses on the blue Pacific, and the hubbub of Waikiki is walled away. There's no resort fee.

Surfjack Hotel & Swim ClubBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-923-8882; www.surfjack.com; 412 Lewers St; r from $275; aWs)

If the Don Draper fantasy still sizzles years after Mad Men, then you'll love this retro-chic 10-story hotel that recreates a posh early 1960s world that may not have existed but which would have been cool if it had. Rooms in this vintage building encircle a courtyard pool. All have balconies and reimagined mid-century furniture your parents would have thrown out.

5Eating

oRainbow Drive-InHAWAIIAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-737-0177; www.rainbowdrivein.com; 3308 Kanaina Ave; meals $4-9; h7am-9pm; c)

If you only hit one classic Hawaiian plate-lunch joint, make it this one. Wrapped in rainbow-colored neon, this famous drive-in is a throwback to another era. Construction workers, surfers and gangly teens order all their down-home favorites such as burgers, mixed-plate lunches, loco moco and Portuguese sweet-bread French toast from the takeout counter. Many love the hamburger steak.

Tonkatsu Ginza BairinJAPANESE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-926-8082; www.pj-partners.com/bairin/; 255 Beach Walk; mains $18-24; h11am-9:30pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)

Why go to Tokyo for perfect pork tonkatsu when you can enjoy the lightly breaded bits of deep-fried pork goodness right here in Waikiki? Since 1927 the family behind this restaurant has been serving tonkatsu at a Ginza restaurant. At this far-flung expansion, nothing has been lost. Besides the namesake there is great sushi, rice bowls and more.

MAC 24/7AMERICAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-921-5564; http://mac247waikiki.com; 2500 Kuhio Ave, Hilton Waikiki Beach; mains $9-25; h24hr)

If it's 3am and you're famished, skip the temptation for a cold $25 burger from room service (if you have room service) and drop by Waikiki's best all-night diner. The dining room has a bold style palette (the better to perk you up for the menu) and by day has a lovely garden view. Food (and prices) are a cut above.

oHy's SteakhouseSTEAK$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-922-5555; http://hyswaikiki.com; 2440 Kuhio Ave; mains $30-80; h6-10pm)

Hy's is so old-school that you expect to find inkwells on the tables. This traditional steakhouse has a timeless old leather and wood interior. But ultimately, it's not whether you expect to see Frank and Dean at a back table; rather, it's the steak at Hy's that is superb.

SATURDAY FARMERS MARKET

oKCC Farmers MarketMARKET$

( GOOGLE MAP ; http://hfbf.org/markets; parking lot C, Kapiʻolani Community College, 4303 Diamond Head Rd; h7:30-11am Sat; v)S

At Oʻahu’s premier gathering of farmers and their fans, everything sold is locally made or grown and has a loyal following, from Nalo greens to Kahuku shrimp and corn. Restaurants and vendors sell all kinds of tasty takeout meals, with Hawaii coffee brewed fresh and cold coconuts cracked open on demand. Get there early for the best of everything.

6Drinking & Entertainment

oBeach BarBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-922-3111; www.moana-surfrider.com; 2365 Kalakaua Ave, Moana Surfrider; h10:30am-11:30pm)

Waikiki's best beach bar is right on an especially lovely stretch of beach. The atmosphere comes from the historic Moana Surfrider ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-922-3111; www.moana-surfrider.com; 2365 Kalakaua Ave; htours 11am Mon, Wed & Fri) hotel and its vast banyan tree. The people-watching of passersby, sunbathers and surfers is captivating day and night. On an island of mediocre mai tais, the version here is one of Oʻahu's best. Although it's always busy, turnover is quick so you won't wait long for a table. There's live entertainment ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-922-3111; www.moana-surfrider.com; 2365 Kalakaua Ave, Moana Surfrider; h10:30am-11:30pm) much of the day.

oHula's Bar & Lei StandGAY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-923-0669; www.hulas.com; 134 Kapahulu Ave, 2nd fl, Waikiki Grand Hotel; h10am-2am; W)

This friendly, open-air bar is Waikiki’s legendary gay venue and a great place to make new friends, boogie and have a few drinks. Hunker down at the pool table, or gaze at the spectacular vista of Diamond Head. The breezy balcony-bar also has views of Queen's Surf Beach, a prime destination for a sun-worshipping LGBTQ crowd.

8Getting There & Around

Waikiki is a district of the city of Honolulu, so much of the transport information applies to both.

Honolulu International Airport is about 9 miles northwest of Waikiki.

A bus in a crude disguise, the Waikiki Trolley (%808-593-2822; www.waikikitrolley.com; 1-day passes $25-45, 4 days from $59) runs five color-coded lines designed for tourists that shuttle around Waikiki and serve major shopping areas and tourist sights in Diamond Head, Honolulu and Pearl Harbor. The passes, good for unlimited use, aren't cheap but can be purchased from any hotel activity desk or at a discounted rate online.

Around O'ahu

Pearl Harbor

The WWII-era rallying cry ʻRemember Pearl Harbor!’ that once mobilized an entire nation dramatically resonates on Oʻahu. It was here that the surprise Japanese attack on December 7, 1941, hurtled the US into war in the Pacific. Every year about 1.6 million tourists visit Pearl Harbor’s unique collection of war memorials and museums, all clustered around a quiet bay where oysters were once farmed.

The iconic offshore shrine at the sunken USS Arizona doesn’t tell the only story. Nearby are two other floating historical sites: the USS Bowfin submarine, aka the ʻPearl Harbor Avenger,’ and the battleship USS Missouri, where General Douglas MacArthur accepted the Japanese surrender at the end of WWII. Together, for the US, these military sites represent the beginning, middle and end of the war. To visit all three, as well as the Pacific Aviation Museum, dedicate at least a day.

8Getting There & Away

The entrance to the Valor in the Pacific Monument and the other Pearl Harbor historic sites is off the Kamehameha Hwy (Hwy 99), southwest of Aloha Stadium. From Honolulu or Waikiki, take H-1 west to exit 15A (Arizona Memorial/Stadium), then follow the highway signs for the monument, not the signs for Pearl Harbor (which lead onto the US Navy base). There’s plenty of free parking.

From Waikiki, bus 42 (ʻEwa Beach) is the most direct, running twice hourly between 6am and 3pm, taking just over an hour each way. The ‘Arizona Memorial’ stop is right outside the main entrance to the National Park site.

Diamond Head

A dramatic backdrop for Waikiki Beach, Diamond Head is one of the best-known landmarks in Hawaii. Ancient Hawaiians called it Leʻahi, and at its summit they built a luakini heiau, a temple dedicated to the war god Ku and used for human sacrifices. Ever since 1825, when British sailors found calcite crystals sparkling in the sun and mistakenly thought they’d struck it rich, the sacred peak has been called Diamond Head.

The coast is an easy walk from Waikiki and there are some good beaches below the cliffside road and viewpoints.

oDiamond Head State MonumentSTATE PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-464-2924; www.hawaiistateparks.org; off Diamond Head Rd btwn Makapuʻu & 18th Aves; per pedestrian/car $1/5; h6am-6pm, last trail entry 4:30pm; c)

The extinct crater of Diamond Head is now a state monument, with picnic tables and a spectacular hiking trail up to the 761ft-high summit. The trail was built in 1908 to service military observation stations located along the crater rim.

oDiamond Head LookoutVIEWPOINT

( GOOGLE MAP ; 3483 Diamond Head Rd)

From this small parking area, there are fine views over Kuilei Cliffs Beach Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; 3450 Diamond Head Rd) and up the coast toward Kahala. On the east side of the parking area, look for the Amelia Earhart Marker, which recalls her 1935 solo flight from Hawaii to California. It's an enjoyable 1.4-mile walk beyond Kaimana Beach (Sans Souci Beach; GOOGLE MAP ) in Waikiki.

The Diamond Head area is a pretty 2-mile walk from Waikiki.

Bus routes 14 and 22 follow Diamond Head Rd along the beaches and coast, and then continue along Kahala Ave.

Hanauma Bay

This wide, curved bay of turquoise waters protected by a coral reef and backed by palm trees is a gem, especially for snorkelers. You come here for the scenery, you come here for the beach, but above all you come here to snorkel – and if you’ve never been snorkeling before, it’s a perfect place to start.

The bay is a park and a nature preserve. It is hugely popular; to beat the crowds, arrive as soon as the park opens.

oHanauma Bay Nature PreservePARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-396-4229; www.honolulu.gov; off Kalaniana'ole Hwy; adult/child under 13yr $7.50/free; h6am-6pm Wed-Mon Nov-Mar, to 7pm Wed-Mon Apr-Oct; c)

From an overlook, you can peer into the translucent waters and see the outline of the 7000-year-old coral reef that stretches across the width of the bay. You’re bound to see schools of glittering silver fish, the bright-blue flash of parrotfish and perhaps sea turtles so used to snorkelers they’re ready to go eyeball-to-mask with you. Feeding the fish is strictly prohibited, to preserve the delicate ecological balance of the bay. Despite its protected status as a marine-life conservation district, this beloved bay is still a threatened ecosystem, constantly in danger of being loved to death.

oMarine Educational CenterMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-397-5840; http://hbep.seagrant.soest.hawaii.edu; 100 Hanauma Bay Rd; h8am-4pm Wed-Mon; c)S

Past the park's entrance ticket windows is an excellent educational center run by the University of Hawaiʻi. Interactive, family-friendly displays teach visitors about the unique geology and ecology of the bay. Everyone should watch the informative 12-minute video about environmental precautions before snorkeling. Visit the website for links to a great app that covers snorkeling in the bay.

Bus 22 runs between Waikiki and Hanauma Bay (50 minutes, every 30 to 60 minutes). Buses leave Waikiki between 8am and 4pm (4:45pm on weekends and holidays). Buses back to Waikiki pick up at Hanauma Bay from 10:50am until 5:20pm (5:50pm on weekends and holidays).

Shuttle buses and tours to the bay are also heavily marketed to tourists.

Kailua & Windward Coast

Welcome to Oʻahu’s lushest, most verdant coast, where turquoise waters and light-sand beaches share the dramatic backdrop of misty cliffs in the Koʻolau Range. Cruise over the pali (mountains) from Honolulu (only 20 minutes) and you first reach Kailua, a pleasant place with an extraordinary beach.

Many repeat visitors make this laid-back community their island base, whether they intend to kayak, stand up paddle (SUP), snorkel, dive, drive around the island or just laze on the sand. To the south, more beautiful beaches (and good food) await in Waimanalo. North up the coast, Kamehameha Hwy narrows into a winding two-lane road with a dramatic oceanfront on one side and small rural farms, towns and frequent sheer cliffs on the other.

The coast is the main part of the round-island drive that also circles through the North Shore. Don't be surprised if you want to hit the brakes and stay a while.

Hawaiʻi, the Big Island

Indulge your spirit of adventure on the biggest Hawaiian island. It's still a vast frontier, full of unexpected wonders.

Less than a million years old, Hawaiʻi is a baby in geological terms. Here you'll find the Hawaiian Islands' tallest, largest and only active volcanic mountains. Kilauea, on the eastern side, is the world's most active volcano, spewing molten lava continuously since 1983. If you see glowing, red-hot lava, you are witnessing Earth in the making, a thrilling and humbling experience. At 33,000ft tall when measured from the ocean floor, Mauna Kea is the world's tallest mountain, and its significance cannot be overstated – as a sacred place to Hawaiians and a top astronomical site to scientists.

8Getting There & Around

Virtually all visitors arrive on the Big Island by air, mostly from Honolulu International Airport on O‘ahu. Travelers must then catch an interisland flight to one of the Big Island's two primary airports: Kona International Airport at Keahole or Hilo International Airport. Flights, cars and tours can be booked online at lonelyplanet.com/bookings.

Renting a car is the only way to explore all of the Big Island. The island is divided into six districts: Kona, Kohala, Waimea, Hilo, Puna and Kaʻu. The Hawaiʻi Belt Rd circles the island, connecting the main towns and sights. A 4WD vehicle will be handy for off-the-beaten-track adventures, but for basic sightseeing it's unnecessary. Public transit by bus is available, but service is limited and you'll probably find it way too time-consuming.

Kailua-Kona

Kailua-Kona, also known as ‘Kailua,’ ‘Kona Town’ and sometimes just ‘Town,’ is a love-it-or-leave-it kind of place. On the main drag of Aliʻi Dr, along the shoreline, Kailua works hard to evoke the nonchalance of a sun-drenched tropical getaway, but in an injection-molded, bargain-priced way.

But we like it. Spend enough time here and you'll scratch past the souvenirs to an oddball identity built from a collision of two seemingly at-odds forces: mainlanders who want to wind down to Hawaiian time, and ambitious Big Islanders who want to make it in one of the few local towns worthy of the title. Somehow, this marriage works. Kailua-Kona can be tacky, but it's got character.

At the end of the day, Kailua is a convenient base from which to enjoy the Kona Coast’s beaches, snorkeling, water sports and ancient Hawaiian sites, so you'll likely spend at least a day here.

1Sights & Activities

oMagic Sands BeachBEACH

(Laʻaloa Beach Park; GOOGLE MAP ; Aliʻi Dr; hsunrise-sunset; pc)

This small but gorgeous beach (also called White Sands and, officially, Laʻaloa Beach) has turquoise water, great sunsets, little shade and possibly the best bodysurfing and bodyboarding on the Big Island. Waves are consistent and just powerful enough to shoot you across the water into a sandy bay (beware: the north side of the bay has more rocks). During high winter surf the beach can vanish literally overnight, earning the nickname ‘Magic Sands.’ The park is about 4 miles south of central Kailua-Kona.

Three Ring Ranch Exotic Animal SanctuaryWILDLIFE RESERVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-331-8778; www.threeringranch.org; 75-809 Keaolani Sbd, Kailua-Kona; minimum donation $50 per person; htours by reservation)S

Dr Ann Goody runs this animal sanctuary on five lovely acres in upland Kona. This isn't a zoo, or even a conventional sanctuary; instead, Dr Goody cares for and genuinely communicates with her charges, which include flamingos, zebras, tortoises and more. Guests are invited to wander the grounds on guided tours, but at all times, you are aware this is a place dedicated to education and animal healing, as opposed to viewing. You must call or email for reservations.

Jack's Diving LockerDIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-329-7585; www.jacksdivinglocker.com; 75-5813 Aliʻi Dr, Coconut Grove Marketplace, Bldg H; manta snorkel/dive from $105/155; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-6pm Sun; c)S

With top-notch introductory dives and courses, plus extensive programs for kids, this eco-conscious dive outfitter has a 5000-sq-ft facility with a store, classrooms, tank room and Hawaii's only 12ft-deep indoor dive pool. Sign up for a boat or shore dive, as well as a night manta-ray dive. Snorkelers are welcome on many dive-boat trips.

4Sleeping

My Hawaii HostelHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-374-2131; www.myhawaiihostel.com; 76-6241 Ali'i Drive; dm/rm $40/80; paW)

This simple, clean, well-renovated hostel is a welcome addition to the slim pickings that are the Kailua-Kona budget accommodations scene. While $40 is a bit steep for the dorm rooms, the private chambers are about as good value for money as you'll find. Note that it's located about 2 miles south of downtown Kailua-Kona.

Kona Tiki HotelHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-329-1425; www.konatikihotel.com; 75-5968 Aliʻi Dr; r $99-199; pWs)

You can find affordable oceanfront views at this retro three-story hotel, a quirky, well-kept complex south of downtown Kailua-Kona with very friendly owners. The motel-style rooms are basic, but all have a fridge and enchanting lanai. Book well ahead, because the hotel regularly fills with nostalgic repeat guests.

5Eating & Drinking

oUmekesHAWAII REGIONAL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-329-3050; www.umekespoke808.com; 75-143 Hualalai Rd; mains $5-14; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat; vc)

Umekes takes island-style food to the next level. Local ingredients such as ahi tuna, spicy crab salad and salted Waimea beef are served plate-lunch style with excellent, innovative sides such as seasoned seaweed and cucumber kimchi (along with heaping scoops of rice). It's some of the best-value grinds on the island. There's another location at 74-5563 Kaiwi St.

Jackie Rey's Ohana GrillHAWAII REGIONAL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-327-0209; www.jackiereys.com; 75-5995 Kuakini Hwy; mains lunch $13-19, dinner $16-35; h11am-9pm Mon-Fri, 5-9pm Sat & Sun; pc)

Jackie Rey's is a casual, family-owned grill with a delightfully retro-kitsch Hawaii vibe. Haute versions of local grinds include guava-glazed ribs, wasabi-seared ahi and mochiko (rice flour–battered) fish with Molokaʻi purple sweet potatoes.

Kona Brewing CompanyAMERICAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-334-2739; http://konabrewingco.com; 75-5629 Kuakini Hwy; mains $13-25; h11am-10pm; c)S

Expect a madhouse crowd at this sprawling, eco-sustainable brewpub, with tiki torch-lit outdoor seating and laid-back waitstaff. Pizza toppings verge on gourmet, but crusts can be soggy; BBQ sandwiches and fish tacos are better bets. Enter the parking lot off Kaiwi St.

8Getting There & Around

Both the public Hele-On Bus and privately operated Keauhou and Kona Trolley make stops within Kailua-Kona.

The drive from Kailua-Kona to Hilo is 75 miles and takes at least 1¾ hours via Saddle Rd, 95 miles (two hours) via Waimea and 125 miles (three hours) via Kaʻu and Volcano.

To avoid snarly commuter traffic on Hwy 11 leading into and away from Kailua-Kona, try the Mamalahoa Hwy Bypass Rd. It connects Aliʻi Dr in Keauhou with Halekiʻi St in Kealakekua, between Miles 111 and 112 on Hwy 11.

South Kona Coast

South Kona, more than any other district of Hawaiʻi, embodies the many strands that make up the geo-cultural tapestry of the Big Island. There is both the dry lava desert of the Kohala Coast and the wet, misty jungles of Puna and Hilo; fishing villages inhabited by country-living locals next to hippie art galleries established by counterculture exiles from the US mainland, next to condos plunked down by millionaire land developers.

In addition, the dozen or so miles heading south from Kailua-Kona to Kealakekua Bay are among Hawaiʻi's most action-packed, historically speaking. It's here that ancient Hawaiian aliʻi (royalty) secretly buried the bones of their ancestors, kapu (taboo) breakers braved shark-infested waters to reach the puʻuhonua (place of refuge), and British explorer Captain Cook and his crew fatally first stepped ashore in Hawaii.

8Getting There & Away

The Belt Rd that rings the island becomes Hwy 11 in South Kona, and it's a twisty, sometimes treacherous route – while there aren't many hairpin turns, folks who are used to flatland driving will need to acclimate themselves to driving in the mountains.

In some places the highway is quite narrow; while cycling is relatively common, make sure to wear reflective gear and sport good lighting on your rig. Note that mile markers decrease as you head further south; this may seem weird given that mile markers decrease going north in North Kona, but you're technically on Hwy 11, as opposed to Hwy 19, down here.

The Hele-On Bus (www.heleonbus.org) passes through the area sporadically, mainly in the morning and early evening, taking commuters to and from resorts; it can also drop travelers off along the way.

DON'T MISS

KONA COFFEE FARMS

oKona Coffee Living History FarmHISTORIC SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-323-3222; www.konahistorical.org; 82-6199 Mamalahoa Hwy; 1hr tour adult/child 5-12yr $15/5; h10am-2pm Mon-Fri; p)S

Many coffee-farm tours are perfunctory 15-minute affairs. This tour, run by the Kona Historical Society, an affiliate of the Smithsonian Institute, is different and deep. More than just an exploration of how coffee is grown and harvested, it's an evocative look at rural Japanese immigrant life in South Kona throughout several decades of the 20th century. Restored to Hawaiʻi's pre-statehood era, this 5.5-acre working coffee farm once belonged to the Uchida family, who lived here until 1994.

North Kona Coast

If you thought the Big Island was all jungle mountains and white-sand beaches, the severe North Kona Coast and its beige deserts and black-and-rust lava fields will come as a shock. Yet always, at the edge of your eyesight, is the bright blue Pacific, while bits of green are sprinkled like jade flecks amid the dry. Turn off the Queen Kaʻahumanu Hwy and make your way across the eerie lava fields to snorkel with sea turtles, bask on almost deserted black-sand beaches and catch an iconic Kona sunset. On clear days, gaze mauka (inland) at panoramas of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa volcanoes, both often snow-dusted in winter, and in the foreground between the two, Mt Hualalai.

North Kona technically runs 33 miles along Queen Kaʻahumanu Hwy (Hwy 19) from Kailua-Kona up the Kona Coast to Kawaihae. Honokohau Harbor is an easy 2-mile drive from downtown Kailua.

DON'T MISS

BEACHES OF NORTH KONA

oMakalawena BeachBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

If what you're after is an almost deserted, postcard-perfect scoop of soft, white-sand beach cupping brilliant blue-green waters (got your attention?), head to 'Maks.' Although popular, this string of idyllic coves absorbs crowds so well you'll still feel like you've found paradise. The northernmost cove is sandier and gentler, while the southernmost cove is (illegally) a naked sunbathing spot. Swimming is splendid, but beware of rough surf and rocks in the water. Bodyboarding and snorkeling are other possibilities.

oKua BayBEACH

(Maniniʻowali Beach; GOOGLE MAP ; www.hawaiistateparks.org; h8am-7pm; pc)S

This crescent-shaped white-sand beach is fronted by sparkling turquoise waters that offer first-rate swimming and bodyboarding, and good snorkeling on the north side of the bay (by the large rock outcroppings) when waters are calm. A paved road leads right up to it, and thus the beach, also known as Maniniʻowali, draws major crowds, especially on weekends. Arrive late and cars will be parked half a mile up the road. The parking area has bathrooms and showers.

oHonokohau BeachBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP ; hdaylight hours; c)S

At this beautiful hook-shaped beach with a mix of black lava, white coral and wave-tossed shells, the water is usually too cloudy for snorkeling, but just standing on shore you'll see honu (green sea turtles). You may spot more honu munching on limu (seaweed) around the ancient ʻAiʻopio fishtrap, bordered by a Hawaiian heiau at the beach's southern end. Inland are anchialine ponds – pools of brackish water that make unique habitats for marine and plant life.

4Sleeping

This sparsely populated area is light on accommodations options; it's far easier to find resorts further north (South Kohala) or guesthouses, rentals and the like further south (Kailua-Kona and South Kona). Either way, you won't be more than a 30-minute drive from North Kona's best sights.

oFour Seasons Resort HualalaiRESORT$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %888-340-5662, 808-325-8000; www.fourseasons.com/hualalai; 72-100 Kaʻupulehu Dr; r/ste from $695/1595; paiWs)

This luxury resort earns its accolades with top-flight service and lavish attention to detail like fresh orchids in every room, embracing lush gardens and an oceanview infinity pool. Some poolside rooms have rejuvenating lava-rock garden outdoor showers. The golf course and spa are both outstanding, or snorkel with 75 species of tropical fish in the King's Pond.

8Getting There & Away

The Hele-On Bus (www.heleonbus.org) runs at least one daily line out to the resorts at Kohala that pass through North Kona. Otherwise, North Kona is an easy drive north of Kailua-Kona; just be aware of heavy traffic conditions around the airport during rush hour (7am to 9am and 3:30pm to 6pm). You can also cycle out here (bring water); this is one of the few areas of the Belt Rd with a wide shoulder. Note that mile markers decrease as you head north.

South Kohala Coast

The Queen Kaʻahumanu Hwy (Hwy 19) cuts through stark fields of lava, but as you head toward the ocean, rolling emerald golf course slopes edge onto condo complexes and electric teal pools. This is the Gold Coast of the Big Island, and whatever your feelings are on resorts, this is where you'll find some of the area's best beaches.

Oddly enough, South Kohala also contains numerous ancient Hawaiian sights. This coast was more populated at the time of their creation than it is now, and the region is packed with village sites, heiau, fishponds, petroglyphs and historic trails – areas that are often preserved for visitors.

The waters off the coast in South Kohala are pristine and teeming with marine life – and they're relatively uncrowded. The reef drops off more gradually here than along the Kona Coast, so you might see sharks, dolphins, turtles and manta rays.

This is resort country, and the accommodations options are pricey. Modern amenities and plush digs are the norm. Note that many units within resorts are owner-occupied condos, which are often rented to short-term visitors via the usual rental website booking engines.

Whole house rentals are the norm in Puako, and there are some camping options on Kohala beaches. Check out www.waikoloahawaiivacations.com, www.2papayas.com and www.hawaiis4me.com for rentals in the area.

8Getting There & Away

The resorts and sights of South Kohala are located north of Kailua-Kona off Hwy 19 – depending on which resort you're going to, they're located about 25 to 35 miles away from town.

The Pahala–South Kohala Hele-On Bus plies this route three times a day Monday to Saturday, and once a day on Sundays.

Traffic jams around KOA airport during rush hours can eat up your travel time.

WORTH A TRIP

KOHALA MOUNTAIN ROAD

Arguably the Big Island’s best scenic drive, Kohala Mountain Rd (Hwy 250) affords stupendous views of the Kohala–Kona coastline and three majestic volcanic mountains: Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa and Hualalai. Start from Waimea, climb past an overlook, and then follow the spine of the peninsula through green pastures until you finally descend to the sea at Hawi. The name changes to Hawi Rd close to that town.

Mauna Kea

Mauna Kea (White Mountain) is called Mauna O Wakea (Mountain of Wakea) by Hawaiian cultural practitioners. While all of the Big Island is considered the first-born child of Wakea (Sky Father) and Papahānaumoku (Earth Mother), Mauna Kea has always been the sacred piko (navel) connecting the land to the heavens.

For the scientific world, it all began in 1968 when the University of Hawaiʻi (UH) began observing the universe from atop the mountain. The summit is so high, dry, dark and pollution-free that it allows investigation of the furthest reaches of the observable universe.

Many Hawaiians are opposed to the summit 'golf balls' – the white observatories now dotting the skyline. While not antiscience, they believe unchecked growth threatens the mountain's wahi pana (sacred places), including heiau (temples) and burial sites. Litter, vandalism and pollution (including toxic mercury spills) have been a problem. Visit with respect, and pack out your trash.

oMauna Kea Visitor Information StationTOURIST INFORMATION

(MKVIS; GOOGLE MAP ; %808-961-2180; www.ifa.hawaii.edu/info/vis; h9am-10pm)F

Modestly sized MKVIS packs a punch with astronomy and space-exploration videos and posters galore, and information about the mountain's history, ecology and geology. Budding scientists of all ages revel in the gift shop, while knowledgeable staff help you pass the time acclimatizing to the 9200ft altitude. Check the website for upcoming special events, such as lectures about science and Hawaiian culture, typically held on Saturday nights.

Excellent free stargazing programs happen from 6pm until 10pm nightly, weather permitting.

8Getting There & Away

Coming from Waimea or Kona take Saddle Road (Hwy 200) or the new Daniel K Inouye reroute. From Hilo, drive mauka (inland) on Kaumana Dr (Hwy 200) or Puainako Extension (Hwy 2000), both of which become Saddle Road. Start with a full tank of gas – there are no service stations out here.

The Visitor Information Station (MKVIS) and the summit beyond are on Mauna Kea Access Rd, near Mile 28 on Saddle Road. MKVIS is 6 miles uphill from Saddle Road; the summit is another 8 miles beyond that. Call 808-935-6268 for current road conditions.

Hamakua Coast

Stretching from Waipiʻo Valley to Hilo, the Hamakua Coast combines rugged beauty and bursting fertility. Here you'll find rocky shores and pounding surf, tropical rainforests and thunderous waterfalls. The color green takes on new meaning, especially in Waipiʻo Valley, which you can explore on horseback or by a steep, exhilarating hike.

On the slopes of Mauna Kea, farmers grow vanilla, tea, mushrooms and other boutique crops, modernizing and diversifying island agriculture. Visit these small-scale farms for a close-up look at island life (and to sample its delicious bounty). Sugarcane once ruled the Hamakua Coast, with acres of plantations and massive trains chugging along the coast and across towering bridges spanning the tremendous gulches. Stop at old-time museums and delve into the rich history here. Pause to imagine the 'old plantation days.' Go slow, explore the back roads and step back in time.

A car is essential to navigate the Hamakua Coast along Hwy 19. Honoka‘a, the biggest town along the Hamakua Coast, is approximately 50 miles from Kailua-Kona and 40 miles from Hilo. Expect the drive to take 75 minutes from Kona and an hour from Hilo.

The Hele-On Bus (%808-961-8744; www.heleonbus.org; per trip adult/senior & student $2/1) route between Kona and Hilo stops at various towns along the coast, including Honoka‘a, Pa‘auilo, Laupahoehoe, Hakalau, Honomu and Papaikou. Buses run between Kona and Hilo three times daily. Service between Hilo and Honoka‘a is more frequent. Check the website for schedules.

Hilo

Kailua-Kona may host more visitors, but Hilo is the beating heart of Hawai‘i Island. Hidden beneath its daily drizzle lies deep soil and soul, from which sprouts a genuine community and aloha spirit. Hilo's demographics still mirror its sugar-town roots, with a diverse mix of Native Hawaiians, Japanese, Filipinos, Portuguese, Puerto Ricans, Chinese and Caucasians.

People might seem low-key, but they're a resilient lot. Knocked down by two tsunamis, threatened with extinction by Mauna Loa lava flows, deluged with the highest annual rainfall in the USA and always battling for its share of tourist dollars, Hilo knows how to survive and to thrive.

Hilo had a life before tourism, and it remains refreshingly untouristy. Yet it offers many attractions: compelling museums, a walkable downtown, two thriving farmers markets and dozens of indie restaurants. Hilo is an ideal base for exploring Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park, Mauna Kea, Puna and the Hamakua Coast.

1Sights & Activities

oLiliʻuokalani ParkPARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; 189 Lihiwai St; c)

Savor Hilo's simple pleasures with a picnic lunch in scenic Japanese gardens overlooking the bay. Named for Hawaii's last queen (r 1891–93), the 30-acre county park features soaring trees, sprawling lawns and quaint footbridges over shallow ponds. At sunrise or sunset, join the locals jogging or power walking the perimeter, or simply admire the Mauna Kea view.

oPacific Tsunami MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-935-0926; www.tsunami.org; 130 Kamehameha Ave; adult/child $8/4; h10am-4pm Tue-Sat)

You cannot understand Hilo without knowing its history as a two-time tsunami survivor (1946 and 1960). This seemingly modest museum is chock-full of riveting information, including a section on the Japanese tsunami of 2011, which damaged Kona. Allow enough time to experience the multimedia exhibits, including chilling computer simulations and heart-wrenching first-person accounts.

oʻImiloa Astronomy Center of HawaiʻiMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-969-9700; www.imiloahawaii.org; 600 ʻImiloa Pl; adult/child 6-17yr $17.50/9.50; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun; c)

ʻImiloa, which means 'exploring new knowledge,' is a $28 million museum and planetarium complex with a twist: it juxtaposes modern astronomy on Mauna Kea with ancient Polynesian ocean voyaging. It's a great family attraction and the natural complement to a summit tour. One planetarium show is included with admission. On Friday catch special evening programs, including a mind-blowing Led Zeppelin planetarium rock show.

4Sleeping

oArnott's LodgeHOSTEL, CAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-339-0921; www.arnottslodge.com; 98 Apapane Rd; camping per person $16, dm from $30, r with/without bath $90/70, ste from $100; pnaW)

Hilo's longest-running hostel remains solid value, with a dizzying variety of lodging options close to Onekahakaha Beach. All rooms and dorms are clean, safe and comfortably furnished. The Deluxe Suite ($110) is especially pleasant, with an airy high ceiling and private kitchenette. Camping is also available. Ask about their adventure tours ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-339-0921; www.arnottslodge.com; 98 Apapane Rd, Hilo; tours $180; htours Wed-Mon) to Mauna Kea.

oDolphin Bay HotelHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-935-1466, 877-935-1466; www.dolphinbayhotel.com; 333 Iliahi St; studio $110-160, ste $180-200; pnW)

This family-owned, two-story hotel attracts countless loyal, repeat guests – which is no surprise. Its 18 apartment-style units are spotless and reasonably priced and all include full kitchen. Welcoming staffers are generous with island advice and provide free coffee, fruit and banana bread for breakfast. The property, bursting with tropical flora, is conveniently located within a five-minute walk of downtown Hilo.

5Eating & Drinking

oSuisan Fish MarketSEAFOOD$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-935-9349; 93 Lihiwai St; takeout poke $10-12, poke per lb $18; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun)

For a fantastic variety of freshly made poke (sold by the pound), Suisan is a must. Buy a bowl of takeout poke and rice and eat outside the shop or across the street at Lili‘uokalani Park. Could life be any better?

oRestaurant KenichiJAPANESE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-969-1776; www.restaurantkenichi.com; 684 Kilauea Ave; mains $13-15; h10am-2pm & 5-9pm Mon-Sat; c)

For delicious, untouristy dining, Kenichi has it all: Japanese comfort food, high-volume flavor, cheerful staff and a simple dining room crowded with locals. Favorites include steaming ramen bowls made with house dashi (broth), succulent grilled saba (mackerel), boneless Korean chicken and rib-eye steak, rushed to your table, aromatic and sizzling. Save room for nostalgic desserts like banana cream pie.

Bayfront Kava BarBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-345-1698; www.bayfrontkava.com; 264 Keawe St; cup of kava $5; h4-10pm Mon-Sat)

If you're curious about kava (ʻawa in Hawaiian), try a cup at this minimalist bar. Friendly bar staff serve freshly brewed, locally grown kava root in coconut shells. Get ready for tingling taste buds and a calm buzz. Live music and art exhibitions kick off on a regular basis.

8Getting There & Away

The drive from Hilo to Kailua-Kona (via Waimea) along Hwy 19 is 95 miles and takes about 2½ hours. Driving along Saddle Road can cut travel time by about 15 minutes.

Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park

From the often-snowy summit of Mauna Loa, the world's most massive volcano, to the boiling coast where lava pours into the sea, Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park is a micro-continent of thriving rainforests, volcano-induced deserts, high-mountain meadows, coastal plains and plenty of geological marvels in between.

At the heart of it all is Kilauea – the earth’s youngest and most active shield volcano. Since 1983 Kilauea’s East Rift Zone has been erupting almost nonstop from the Puʻu ʻOʻo vent, adding nearly 500 acres of new land to the island.

The national park staff excel at managing this chaotic landscape. Their education programs deftly blend modern science with ancient beliefs and customs, and their outreach feels boundless. Ample interpretive signs, unusually informative trail guides, a slew of well-thought-out ranger-led hikes, living history programs and a weekly lecture series all provide visitors with a solid connection to the park and the people of Hawaiʻi.

The park's two vehicle-accessible campgrounds are relatively uncrowded outside of summer months. Nights can be crisp and cool and wet. Campsites are first-come, first-served (with a seven-night limit). Nearby Volcano Village has the most variety for those who prefer a roof over their heads.

oKilauea Visitor Center & MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-985-6000; www.nps.gov/havo; Crater Rim Dr; h9am-5pm, film screenings hourly 9am-4pm; c)S

Stop here first. Extraordinarily helpful (and remarkably patient) rangers and volunteers can advise you about volcanic activity, air quality, road closures, hiking-trail conditions and how best to spend however much time you have. Interactive museum exhibits are small but family friendly, and will teach even science-savvy adults about the park's delicate ecosystem and Hawaiian heritage. All of the rotating movies are excellent. Pick up fun junior ranger program activity books for your kids before leaving.

8Information

AAir Quality (www.hawaiiso2network.com) Air-quality updates from nine monitoring stations throughout the park.

AHawaiʻi County Civil Defense (www.hawaiicounty.gov/civil-defense) Information on lava flows and volcanic activity.

ATrail & Road Closures (www.nps.gov/havo/closed_areas.htm) Updated information on trail and road closings.

AUSGS Hawaiian Volcano Observatory (http://hvo.wr.usgs.gov) Kilauea Volcano eruption updates, current earthquake and atmospheric conditions, and webcams.

8Getting There & Around

The park is 30 miles (45 minutes) from Hilo and 95 miles (2¾ hours) from Kailua-Kona via Hwy 11. The turnoffs for Volcano village are a couple of miles east of the main park entrance. Hwy 11 is prone to flooding, washouts and closures during rainstorms. Periods of drought may close Mauna Loa Rd and Hilina Pali Rd due to wildfire hazards.

The public Hele-On Bus ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-961-8744; www.heleonbus.org; adult one-way $2) departs Monday through Saturday (no service Sunday) from Hilo, arriving at the park visitor center ($5 surcharge) about 1¼ hours later. One bus continues to Kaʻu. There is no public transportation once you get inside the park, and hitchhiking is illegal in all national parks.

Cyclists are permitted on paved roads, and a handful of dirt ones, including the Escape Rd but not on any trails – pavement or no.

Maui

According to some, you can’t have it all. Perhaps those folks haven’t been to Maui, which consistently lands atop travel-magazine reader polls as one of the world’s most romantic islands. And why not? With its sandy beaches, deluxe resorts, gourmet cuisine, fantastic luau, whale-watching, surfing, snorkeling and hiking, it leaves most people more in love than when they arrived.

8Getting There & Away

Maui has a large number of nonstop flights to/from cities on the mainland, including Los Angeles, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, Dallas, Chicago and Vancouver, BC. Otherwise it's common to connect through Honolulu.

Kahului International Airport (OGG; GOOGLE MAP ; %808-872-3830; http://hawaii.gov/ogg; 1 Kahului Airport Rd) All trans-Pacific flights to Maui arrive in Kahului, the island’s main airport. There's a staffed Visitor Information Desk in the baggage claim area that’s open 7:45am to 10pm daily. There are racks of local travel brochures beside the desk. A huge new rental-car facility and monorail will make the terminal area a construction site through 2019.

Kapalua Airport (JHM; GOOGLE MAP ; %808-665-6108; www.hawaii.gov/jhm; 4050 Honoapiilani Hwy) Off Hwy 30, south of Kapalua in West Maui, this regional airport has flights with Mokulele Airlines (%866-260-7070; www.mokuleleairlines.com) to Molokaʻi and Honolulu.

Lahaina

With its weathered storefronts, narrow streets and bustling harbor, plus a few chattering mynahs, Hawaii's most historic town looks like a port-of-call for Captain Ahab. Is this the 21st century, or an 1850s whaling village? In truth, it offers a mix of both.

Tucked between the West Maui Mountains and a tranquil sea, Lahaina has long been a popular convergence point. Ancient Hawaiian royals were the first to gather here, followed by missionaries, whalers and sugar plantation workers. Today it’s a base for creative chefs, passionate artists and dedicated surf instructors.

Near the harbor, storefronts that once housed saloons, dance halls and brothels now teem with art galleries, souvenir shops and, well, still plenty of watering holes. As for the whalers, they’ve been replaced by a new kind of leviathan hunter: whale-watchers as dedicated as Ahab in their hunt. Between January and March, they don’t have to look hard.

1Sights & Activities

oBanyan Tree SquarePARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Front & Hotel Sts)

A leafy landmark (the largest tree in Hawaii) stands in the center of Lahaina. Remarkably, it sprawls across the entire square. Planted as a seedling on April 24, 1873, to commemorate the 50th anniversary of missionaries in Lahaina, the tree has become a virtual forest unto itself, with 16 major trunks and scores of horizontal branches reaching across the better part of an acre. The square was recently given a major restoration, which fixed the paving tiles and teak benches.

oWo Hing MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.lahainarestoration.org/wo-hing-museum; 858 Front St; adult/child, incl admission to Baldwin House, $7/free; h10am-4pm)

This three-story temple, built in 1912 as a meeting hall for the benevolent society Chee Kung Tong, provided Chinese immigrants with a place to preserve their cultural identity, celebrate festivities and socialize in their native tongue. After WWII, Lahaina’s ethnic Chinese population spread far and wide and the temple fell into decline. Now restored and turned into a cultural museum, it houses ceremonial instruments, a teak medicine cabinet c 1900, jade pieces dating back thousands of years and a Taoist shrine.

oTrilogy ExcursionsBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-874-5649, 888-225-6284; www.sailtrilogy.com; 207 Kupuohi St; 4hr snorkel trip adult/child from $120/60; h8:30am-4pm Mon- Fri, noon-3pm Sun)

Offering snorkeling tours in Maui for more than 40 years, this family-run operation specializes in catamaran tours. There's a variety of trips, including ones to the reef at Olowalu and the much-loved islet of Molokini. In season there are whale-watching trips as wells as dinner and sunset cruises. Day trips to Lana‘i are popular.

DON'T MISS

BIG BEACH

oBig BeachBEACH

(Oneloa Beach; GOOGLE MAP ; http://dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/maui; Makena Rd; h6am-6pm; p)

The crowning glory of Makena State Park, this untouched beach is arguably the finest on Maui. In Hawaiian it’s called Oneloa, literally ‘Long Sand.’ And indeed the golden sands stretch for the better part of a mile and are as broad as they come. The waters are a beautiful turquoise. When they’re calm you’ll find kids boogie-boarding here, but at other times the shorebreaks can be dangerous, suitable for experienced bodysurfers only, who get tossed wildly in the transparent waves.

4Sleeping & Eating

oIlikahiBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-662-8780; www.theilikahi.com; 441 Ilikahi St; r $170-220; paW)S

Serenity is the word at this tropical escape that combines design cues from Hawaii and Bali. The four rooms are large and private, and each has modern conveniences and lanais (balconies) as well as king beds or four-poster queens. The Ginger Suite has a beautiful terrace, perfect for outdoor living. Ecofriendly touches include solar power.

oFrida's Mexican Beach HouseMEXICAN$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-661-1287; http://fridasmaui.com; 1287 Front St; mains $20-40; h11am-9:30pm)

Not your cheap taco joint, Frida's (with plenty of imagery from its namesake Frida Kahlo) has a superb waterfront location, with a large open dining area on a terrace that will have your blood pressure falling minutes after arriving. Steaks and seafood with a Latin flair feature on the upscale menu. Cocktails are creative; yes, there are margaritas!

6Drinking & Nightlife

oFleetwood’s on Front StBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-669-6425; www.fleetwoodsonfrontst.com; 744 Front St; h2-10pm)

With its comfy pillows, cushy lounges and ornate accents, this rooftop oasis – owned by Fleetwood Mac drummer Mick Fleetwood – evokes Morocco. But views of the Pacific and the West Maui Mountains keep you firmly rooted in Hawaii. At sunset, a conch-shell blast announces a tiki-lighting ceremony that’s followed by a bagpipe serenade – from a kilt-wearing Scot.

oDown the HatchBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-661-4900; www.dthmaui.com; 658 Front St, Wharf Cinema Center; h11am-2am)

Lahaina's best late-night bar is on the lower level of the mall. All open-air, its fountains are drowned out by the raucous revelry of the mixed crowd of locals and visitors. There's a long happy hour (3pm to 7pm) when you can enjoy the long list of drinks at big discounts. The piña coladas and other tropical treats are excellent.

8Getting There & Away

It takes about one hour to drive between Lahaina and the airport in Kahului.

Hawaii Executive Transportation (%808-669-2300; www.hawaiiexecutivetransportation.com; 1/2/3/4 passengers $51/59/64/66; hreservations 7am-11pm) provides van service between the airport and Lahaina, and serves most addresses in town.

A taxi between Lahaina and the airport costs about $80.

The Maui Bus (%808-871-4838; www.mauicounty.gov/bus; single ride $2, day pass $4) runs the Lahaina Islander route 20 between Kahului bus hub and Lahaina (one hour), stopping at Maʻalaea Harbor, where a connection can be made to Kihei (various stops) via the Kihei Villager bus service. Another route, the Kaʻanapali Islander, connects Lahaina and Kaʻanapali (30 minutes). Both Islander routes depart from the Wharf Cinema Center hourly from 6:30am to 8:30pm.

The Expeditions Ferry ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-661-3756; www.go-lanai.com; Lahaina Harbor; adult/child one way $30/20) to Lanaʻi uses the Ferry Dock ( GOOGLE MAP ; off Wharf St) in Lahaina Harbor. The Molokaʻi ferry no longer runs.

Kihei

Two reasons to visit Kihei? The beaches and your budget. Yes, it’s overrun with strip malls and traffic, but with 6 miles of easy-to-access beaches, loads of affordable accommodations and a variety of dining options, it offers everything you need for an enjoyable beach vacation. An energetic seaside town, Kihei also works well for short-trip vacationers seeking reliable sunshine – on average Kihei is sunny 276 days per year. It's also home to the island's busiest bar scene.

To zip from one end of Kihei to the other, take the Piʻilani Hwy (Hwy 31). It runs parallel to and bypasses the stop-start traffic of S Kihei Rd. Well-marked crossroads connect these two routes.

1Sights

oKeawakapu BeachBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-879-4364; www.mauicounty.gov/Facilities; p)

From break of day to twilight, this sparkling stretch of sand is a showstopper. Extending from south Kihei to Wailea’s Mokapu Beach, Keawakapu is set back from the main road and is less visible than Kihei’s main roadside beaches just north. It’s also less crowded, and is a great place to settle in and watch the sunset.

4Sleeping

oPineapple Inn MauiINN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-298-4403, 877-212-6284; www.pineappleinnmaui.com; 3170 Akala Dr; r $179-189, cottage $255; paWs)

The Pineapple Inn may be the best deal going in South Maui. This inviting boutique property offers style and functionality with a personal touch, and it's less than a mile from the beach. The four rooms, which have ocean-view lanai and private entrances, are as attractive as those at the exclusive resorts, but at a fraction of the cost. Rooms have kitchenettes, and the two-bedroom cottage comes with a full kitchen.

Kohea Kai ResortBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-879-1261; www.koheakai.com; 551 S Kihei Rd; r $219-253, ste $279-479; paiW)

With brand new owners and a name change, the former Maui Sunseeker is now the new kid in the neighborhood. Except it's adults only. Intimate, smart, progressive and inclusive, this breezy property sprawls across five buildings in North Kihei, just across the street from Mai Poina ʻOelaʻu Beach. As for style, the low-key tropical decor outshines other places in this price range.

5Eating & Drinking

oCafé O’LeiHAWAIIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-891-1368; www.cafeoleirestaurants.com; 2439 S Kihei Rd, Rainbow Mall; lunch $8-16, dinner $17-29; h10:30am-3:30pm & 4:30-9:30pm)

This strip-mall bistro looks ho-hum at first blush. But step inside: the sophisticated atmosphere, innovative Hawaii Regional Cuisine, honest prices and excellent service knock Café O’Lei into the fine-dining big league. For a tangy treat, order the blackened mahimahi with fresh papaya salsa. Look for unbeatable lunch mains, with salads, for under $10, and a sushi chef after 4:30pm (Tuesday to Saturday).

o5 PalmsCOCKTAIL BAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-879-2607; www.5palmsrestaurant.com; 2960 S Kihei Rd, Mana Kai Maui; h8am-11pm, happy hour 3-7pm & 9-11pm)

For sunset cocktails beside the beach, this is the place. Arrive an hour before the sun goes down because the patio bar, just steps from stunning Keawakapu Beach, fills quickly. During happy hour, sushi and an array of delicious appetizers are half price, with a one drink minimum, while mai tais and margaritas are $5.75. Popular with tourists and locals.

8Getting There & Away

The Maui Bus ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-871-4838; www.mauicounty.gov/bus; single ride $2, day pass $4) serves Kihei with two routes. One route, the Kihei Islander, connects Kihei with Wailea and Kahalui; stops include Kamaʻole Beach Park III, Piʻilani Village shopping center, and Uwapo at South Kihei Rd. The other route, the Kihei Villager, primarily serves the northern half of Kihei, with a half-dozen stops along South Kihei Rd and at Piʻilani Village shopping center and Maʻalaea. Both routes operate hourly from around 6am to 8pm and cost $2.

DON'T MISS

HALEAKALā NATIONAL PARK

Haleakalā National Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-572-4400; www.nps.gov/hale; Summit District: Haleakalā Hwy, Kipahulu District: Hana Hwy; 3-day pass car $20, motorcycle $15, individual on foot or bicycle $10; pc) has two distinct sections, and if you have just one day to visit, head to the summit. Whether you make a pre-dawn haul up the mountain to watch the sunrise, or mosey up after breakfast, begin your explorations here. Not only is the visitor center ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nps.gov/hale; Haleakalā Hwy; hsunrise-3pm; p) the ideal perch for crater views, it’s also a fine starting point for jaunts into the crater.

Next, burn off the morning chill with an invigorating hike on the sun-warmed cinders of the unearthly Keoneheʻeheʻe (Sliding Sands) Trail ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nps.gov/hale).

Once you’ve completed your lunar-like crater hike, continue your road trip to Maui’s highest point, Puʻuʻulaʻula (Red Hill) Overlook ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nps.gov/hale; Haleakalā Hwy; p). Admire the ʻahinahina (silversword) garden and take in a ranger talk.

It’s time to head back down the mountain. Make your way to the Kalahaku Overlook ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nps.gov/hale; Haleakalā Hwy; p) lookout, a crater rim-hugger with an eye-popping, wide-angle view of the cinder cones dotting the crater floor.

You’ve seen the starkly barren side of Haleakalā. Now make acquaintance with its lush green face by taking a half-mile walk along the Hosmer Grove Trail ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nps.gov/hale; off Haleakalā Hwy), in forest brimming with birdsong. Like many animals in the park, some of these birds are found nowhere else.

This leg covers 17 miles.

Kauaʻi

Emerald mountains, weeping waterfalls, red-rock canyons, jaw-dropping beaches, clear seas and big waves. Kaua‘i's natural gifts are unparalleled in Hawaii, the USA, the world.

Tourist information kiosks aren't really a thing on Kauaʻi, but the local tourist board, Kauaʻi Visitors Bureau ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-245-3971; www.gohawaii.com/kauai; 4334 Rice St, Suite 101; h8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri), does have a useful website.

8Getting There & Around

Getting here is easy, especially from the mainland USA and Canada, with numerous flights daily. Often, flights will get here with layovers in Honolulu. There are no ferry services here.

Flights, cars and tours can be booked online at lonelyplanet.com/bookings.

Renting a car is highly recommended unless you're on a very tight budget. Well-maintained highways provide access to most of the island and free parking is widely available.

Lihuʻe

The island's commercial center is strip-mall plain, but there's an abundance of economical eateries and shops along with a down-to-earth, workaday atmosphere that's missing in resort areas. While Kalapaki Beach is a charmer, Lihuʻe is more a place to stock up on supplies after arrival at the airport before heading out on your island adventure.

Lihuʻe arose as a plantation town back in 1849 when sugar was king, and its massive sugar mill (still standing south of town along Kaumualiʻi Hwy) was Kauaʻi's largest. The mill closed in 2000, ending more than a century of operations. It left behind an ethnic melting pot of Asian, European and Hawaiian traditions that make the town what it is today.

Activities tend to center on Kalapaki Beach with a few top golf courses and cool beaches nearby. This is the kickoff point for helicopter tours and a few fun excursions to waterfalls.

Wailua

To ancient Hawaiians, the Wailua River was among the most sacred places across the islands. The river basin, near its mouth, was one of the island’s two royal centers (the other was Waimea) and home to the high chiefs. Here, you can find the remains of many important heiau (ancient stone temples); together they now form a national historic landmark.

Long and narrow Hikinaʻakala Heiau (Rising of the Sun Temple; GOOGLE MAP ) sits south of the Wailua River mouth, which is today the north end of Lydgate Beach Park. In its heyday, the temple (built around AD 1300) was aligned directly north to south, but only a few remaining boulders outline its original massive shape. Neighboring Hauola Puʻuhonua (meaning 'the place of refuge of the dew of life') is marked by a bronze plaque. Ancient Hawaiian kapu (taboo) breakers were assured safety from persecution if they made it inside.

Believed to be the oldest luakini (temple dedicated to the war god Ku, often a place for human sacrifice) on the island, Holoholoku Heiau ( GOOGLE MAP ) is a quarter-mile up Kuamoʻo Rd on the left. It's believed to be Kauaʻi's oldest heiau. Toward the west, against the flat-backed birthstone marked by a plaque reading Pohaku Hoʻohanau (Royal Birthstone), queens gave birth to future royals. Only a male child born here could become king of Kauaʻi.

Perched high on a hill overlooking the meandering Wailua River, well-preserved Poliʻahu Heiau ( GOOGLE MAP ), another luakini, is named after the snow goddess Poliʻahu, one of the sisters of the volcano goddess Pele. The heiau is immediately before ʻOpaekaʻa Falls Lookout, on the opposite side of the road.

Although Hawaiian heiau were originally imposing stone structures, most now lie in ruins, covered with scrub. But they are still considered powerful vortices of mana (spiritual essence) and should be treated with respect. For a compelling history of the Wailua River’s significance to ancient Hawaiians, read Edward Joesting’s Kauai: the Separate Kingdom.

8Getting There & Around

Don’t look for a town center. Most attractions are scattered along coastal Kuhio Hwy (Hwy 56) or Kuamoʻo Rd (Hwy 580) heading mauka (inland). Driving north, Kapaʻa Bypass runs from just north of the Wailua River to beyond Kapaʻa, usually skipping the Waipouli and Kapaʻa gridlock.

Hanalei

There are precious few towns with the majestic natural beauty and barefoot soul of Hanalei. The bay is the thing, of course. Its half-dozen surf breaks are legendary, partly because local surf gods such as the late Andy Irons cut their teeth here. Even if you aren't here for the waves, the beach will demand your attention with its wide sweep of cream-colored sand and magnificent jade mountain views.

So will the pint-sized town where you may take a yoga class, snack on sushi, shop for chic beach gear, vintage treasures and stunning art, or duck into a world-class dive bar. Sure, Hanalei has more than its share of adults with Peter Pan syndrome, and you’ll see as many men in their sixties waxing their surfboards as you will groms with ‘guns’ (big-wave surfboards). Which begs the query: why grow up at all when you can grow old in Hanalei?

1Sights & Activities

oBlack Pot Beach Park (Hanalei Pier)BEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

This small section of Hanalei Bay near the Hanalei River mouth usually offers the calmest surf among the wild North Shore swells. Also known as Hanalei Pier for its unmistakable landmark, the sand is shaded by ironwood trees and is popular mainly with novice surfers. In summer, swimming and snorkeling are decent, as is kayaking and SUP.

Hanalei Beach ParkBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

With its sweeping views, this makes a great place for a picnic, sunset or lazy day at the beach. Ideally located, its downside is the parking, which can be a challenge. Park along Weke Rd if you have to, as the public lot gets crowded. Facilities include restrooms and outdoor showers. Camping is allowed only with an advance county permit.

oHoʻopulapula Haraguchi Rice Mill & Taro Farm ToursTOURS

(%808-651-3399; www.haraguchiricemill.org; tours incl lunch adult/child 5-12yr $87/52; htours usually 9:45am Wed, by reservation only)S

Learn about cultivating taro on Kauaʻi at this sixth-generation family-run nonprofit farm and rice mill (the last remaining in the Hawaiian Islands). On farmer-guided tours, which take you out into the loʻi kalo (Hawaiian wet taro fields), you'll get a glimpse of the otherwise inaccessible Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge and learn about Hawaii’s immigrant history.

4Sleeping & Eating

oHanalei Dolphin CottagesCOTTAGE$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-826-1675; www.hanaleicottages.com; 5-5016 Kuhio Hwy; 2-bedroom cottage $260; W)

Launch a canoe, kayak or SUP board right from your backyard on the Hanalei River. A lazy walk from the heart of Hanalei town, each of the four cottages is styled similarly, with bamboo furniture, a full kitchen, BBQ grill, private outdoor (and indoor) showers, front-of-house bedrooms and airy quasi-lounge areas facing the river. Cleaning fee $130.

Chicken in a BarrelBARBECUE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-826-1999; www.chickeninabarrel.com; Ching Young Village, 5-5190 Kuhio Hwy; meals $10-17; h11am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun; c)

Using a custom-made 50-gallon barrel drum smoker, this island BBQ joint is all about the bird. Grab a heaping plate of chicken or a hoagie sandwich with chili-cheese fries. It does ribs and pulled pork too. Whichever you choose, you won't have to eat again all day. There's a second location in Kapaʻa ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-823-0780; http://chickeninabarrel.com; 4-1586 Kuhio Hwy; meals $12-16; h11am-8:30pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun).

oBarAcuda Tapas & WineMEDITERRANEAN$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-826-7081; www.restaurantbaracuda.com; Hanalei Center, 5-5161 Kuhio Hwy; shared plates $7-26; h5:30-10pm, kitchen closes at 9:30pm)S

This is the most chef-driven spot in Hanalei and its best kitchen. The wine list is expertly curated with a blend of new- and old-world vintners, and the tapas-style plates, featuring local beef, fish, pork and veg, are meant to be shared.

8Getting There & Away

There’s one road into and out of Hanalei. During heavy rains (common in winter), the Hanalei Bridge occasionally closes due to flooding and those on either side are stuck until it reopens.

Parking in town can be a headache and absent-minded pedestrians even more so. Everything in Hanalei is walkable. Otherwise, do as the locals do and hop on a bicycle.

If you opted not to rent a car, the North Shore Shuttle ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-826-7019; www.kauai.gov/NorthShoreShuttle; one way $4) links Hanalei to Keʻe with multiple stops in Waniha and Haena along the way.

Poʻipu & South Shore

Poʻipu is the nexus of South Shore tourism…and with good reason. This is one of the sunniest spots on the island – with notably less rain (and less green) than other spots to the north. There are amazing sun-kissed beaches, plenty of top-end resorts and vacation rental condos, plus some of Kauaʻi's best restaurants.

While most vacations here center on the beaches and waterborne activities such as surfing, diving, snorkeling, paddle boarding or just beach bumming, the South Shore also has two world-renowned botanical gardens that showcase beautiful collections of endemic species. The undeveloped Mahaʻulepu Coast has lithified sand-dune cliffs and pounding surf that make for an unforgettable walk. And in between, you have the lasting remnants of the sugar-plantation area, with friendly art galleries, intimate restaurants and interesting historic perspectives in the cozy centers of Koloa and Kalaheo.

8Getting There & Around

Navigating is easy, with just two main roads: Poʻipu Rd (along eastern Poʻipu) and Lawaʻi Rd (along western Poʻipu). You’ll need a car, scooter or bike to go anywhere here besides the beach. It's possible to walk along the roads, but the vibe is more suburbia than surf town.

The Kaua’i Bus ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-246-8110; www.kauai.gov/Bus; 3220 Hoʻolako St, Lihuʻe; one-way fare adult/senior & child 7-18yr $2/1) runs through Koloa into Poʻipu, stopping along Poʻipu Rd at the turnoff to Poʻipu Beach Park and also by the Hyatt. It’s an option for getting here from other towns, but not very useful as transport around the resort area.

DON'T MISS

WAIMEA CANYON STATE PARK

Of all Kauaʻi’s unique wonders, none can touch Waimea Canyon for grandeur. Few would expect to find a gargantuan chasm of ancient lava rock, 10 miles long and over 3500ft deep. It's so spectacular that it has been popularly nicknamed 'the Grand Canyon of the Pacific.' Flowing through the canyon is Waimea River, Kauaʻi’s longest, fed by tributaries that bring reddish-brown waters from Alakaʻi Swamp’s mountaintop.

Waimea Canyon was formed when Kauaʻi’s original shield volcano, Waiʻaleʻale, slumped along an ancient fault line. The horizontal striations along the canyon walls represent successive volcanic eruptions. The red colors indicate where water has seeped through the rocks, creating mineral rust from the iron ore inside.

Drives here on a clear day are phenomenal. Don’t be disappointed by rain, as that’s what makes the waterfalls gush. Sunny days following rain are ideal for prime views, though slick mud makes hiking challenging at these times.

The southern boundary of Waimea Canyon State Park is about 6 miles uphill from Waimea. You can reach the park by two roads: more scenic Waimea Canyon Dr (Hwy 550), which starts in Waimea just past Mile 23, or Kokeʻe Rd (Hwy 552), starting in Kekaha off Mana Rd. The two routes merge between Miles 6 and 7.