For the narrative behind this destination, see chapter 18, “Hezekiah Prepares Jerusalem for War.”
From Jaffa Gate: walk through the gate and continue straight onto David Street, which goes downhill through the market. When you reach the end at the bottom, turn right. Walk down about one block until you reach the second street on your left, Plugat Ha-Kotel Street (see signs pointing to public restrooms). Turn left, pass the restrooms, and when you come out into a small plaza the Broad Wall will be right in front of you.
From Zion Gate: walk through the gate, cross the street onto the sidewalk on the left, and follow the road leading into the Jewish Quarter, staying on the sidewalk as it skirts the parking lot on your right. At the parking lot’s edge turn right down a paved ramp and left at the bottom onto Jewish Quarter Road. Continue straight for a distance of about two blocks, passing the Cardo on your left and the Hurva synagogue on your right. Keep going until you reach Plugat Ha-Kotel Street on your right (see signs pointing to public restrooms). Turn right, pass the restrooms, and when you come out into a small plaza the Broad Wall will be right in front of you.
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• Start your day with a walk on the Old City walls, ascending at Jaffa Gate and descending at Zion Gate.
• Visit the Dormition Abbey, King David’s tomb, and the Upper Room, all on Mount Zion.
• Then either enter the Old City via Zion Gate, or walk down along the wall to the City of David.
For the narrative behind this destination, see chapter 20, “Ezra and Nehemiah Rehabilitate Jerusalem.”
From Jaffa Gate: Walk through the gate and continue straight to David Street, the main market street. Follow it all the way down until the street ends at a T intersection (see restrooms). Turn right and make an immediate left onto the Street of the Chain, continuing downhill. About one block down, turn right onto Misgav la-Dakh Street (if you reach the turnoff for the Western Wall on the right, you’ve gone too far). Pass a few shops and you will find yourself in a large, open plaza on the left. Cross over diagonally to the other side, approaching a low wall. Turn right, up the steps, onto Ha-Tamid Street. Follow the lane across and down the steps and turn left. Approach the railing and you will find an outstanding view, as well as some benches to sit quietly and read.
From the Jewish Quarter: Find your way to the top of the steps that lead down to the Western Wall Plaza and turn left there onto Misgav la-Dakh Street. Follow the street all the way down. When you walk beneath a covered area and reach Shonei Halakhot Street on your left, turn right into a large, open plaza. Cross over to the other side and turn right, up the steps, onto Ha-Tamid Street. Follow the lane across and down the steps and turn left. Approach the railing and you will find an outstanding view, as well as some benches to sit quietly and read.
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• Take a tour of the Western Wall Tunnel.
• Visit the Temple Mount.
Map 3. Outside the Old City walls of Jerusalem
For the narrative behind this destination, see chapter 13, “Absalom’s Rebellion in the Kidron Valley.”
On foot from the Old City: Exit the Old City via the Dung Gate. Cross the street and turn left, walking down the hill and keeping the Old City wall on your left. Pass the street leading to the City of David on your right and continue around the bend in the road, where you will see a brown sign pointing to Absalom’s Pillar. (You might want to stop and enjoy the view of the Kidron Valley and the Mount of Olives from the observation point a few meters/feet further down.) Return to the brown sign and follow the stairs leading down into the Kidron Valley. Descend 172 steps to reach the bottom of the path. The monument is right in front of you.
By taxi: Ask the driver to let you off in front of the church at the Garden of Gethsemane. The facade of the church has a huge triangular mosaic over three arches. Walk south, with the church on your left and the Old City wall on your right (a Christian cemetery is down below in the Kidron Valley). Continue about 140 paces until you reach a small booth with the sign Mount of Olives Information Center, Absalom’s Pillar. (If you would like to expand your tour to include other ancient graves and monuments in the area, purchase a map here.) Descend the stairs on the right and continue down the path into the Kidron Valley. Walk about one block’s distance until you reach the monument on your left.
24/7. Restrooms one flight down from the information booth by Gethsemane are open summer, 7 a.m.–6 p.m.; winter, 6 a.m.–5 p.m.
• Start your day at the lookout point from the top of the Mount of Olives, walk down the Palm Sunday walk to Gethsemane, and continue to Absalom’s tomb.
• Explore the other tombs in the Kidron Valley.
• Continue hiking on the Jerusalem trail via the Kidron Valley to the Valley of Hinom as far as the Cinemateque and grab a coffee at its restaurant.
For the narrative behind this destination, see chapter 11, “Bathsheba in the City of David.”
On foot from the Old City: Exit the Old City walls via the Dung Gate and cross the street. Turn left and walk downhill, keeping the walls on your left. Make the first right turn just down the hill and walk downward a short distance until you see the entrance to the City of David on your left, marked with a large harp.
Follow the signs pointing to the observation deck and climb the stairs to the top. There is no shade there, and the platform is often crowded, so after reading the introductory information and studying the view feel free to climb back down and find a quieter, shady spot to read the story.
Sunday–Thursday, 8 a.m.–5 p.m.; Friday, 8 a.m.–2 p.m. During daylight saving time months the site often stays open longer. The observation deck, the location for this story, is open 24/7. Entrance fee. For more information visit the City of David website at www.cityofdavid.org.il.
• Continue exploring the City of David archaeological park, including Hezekiah’s Tunnel (see chapter 18).
• Continue through the park to the Pool of Siloam. Hike back up to the Old City via the Roman sewer system as far as Robinson’s Arch. Tour the Davidson archaeological park just inside Dung Gate.
For the narrative behind this destination, see chapter 18, “Hezekiah Prepares Jerusalem for War.”
From the Dung Gate: walk out the gate and cross the street. Turn left and walk downhill, keeping the Old City wall on your left. Make the first right turn just down the hill and walk downward until you see the entrance for the City of David on your left, marked by a large harp. Enter the gate, purchase an entry ticket for Hezekiah’s Tunnel, and ask for a site map, which will direct you to the entrance of the water system. Follow the signs to Warren’s Shaft. When you enter, you will walk down a long, dry tunnel that is actually a water system predating Hezekiah’s Tunnel (for more information consult the pamphlet you received with your entry ticket). When you reach the bottom of the descent, you will find the entrance to the wet tunnel, as well as a short dry tunnel that will lead you to an exit in case you change your mind about going into the water. At the entrance to Warren’s Shaft is a revolving gate and an attendant. Before you enter, find a place to sit quietly and read.
Hezekiah’s Tunnel is in the City of David, outside the walls. It is a 533 meter (1,750-feet-long) tunnel carved out of the rock; water flows through it anywhere from mid-calf to high thigh, depending on the season. The walk through the tunnel takes twenty–thirty-five minutes and requires closed water shoes (flip-flops not recommended) and a flashlight. After exiting the tunnel you may climb the long hike back up to the top of the hill (either outdoors or via a first-century sewer) or pay to ride the shuttle van.
Sunday–Thursday, 8 a.m.–5 p.m.; Friday, 8 a.m.–2 p.m. Entrance fee. On Saturdays the observation deck and Area G are open, but the tunnels are closed. During daylight saving time the park is often open for extended hours; call before visiting. (Note: When you buy your tickets you will be assigned an entrance hour. Remember that you might need some time to change clothes [lockers are available], use restrooms, fill water bottles, tour the rest of the site, and read the Hezekiah story. Make sure your entrance slot allows you enough time to do everything before going into the tunnel.) Entrance to Hezekiah’s tunnel only until two hours before closing; tunnels close one hour before closing. No reservation necessary for groups numbering fewer than fourteen people. However, during school vacations the tunnel gets very crowded so it’s advisable to call in advance. For more information call 02–6262341 or *6033. Visit their website at www.cityofdavid.org.il. (Note: In addition to Hezekiah’s Tunnel there is much more to see at the City of David at no extra cost. If you wish to tour the site more extensively, be sure to ask for some explanatory literature when you purchase your tickets. Guided tours are also available, reservations required.)
For the narrative behind this destination, see chapter 19, “Zedekiah Flees Jerusalem.”
On foot from the Old City: Exit the Old City via the Damascus Gate. At the street level above the gate, walk eastward, keeping the Old City wall on your right. Continue about one hundred paces, or half a block, until you reach the entrance to Solomon’s Quarries (Zedekiah’s Cave)—a green iron gate fitted into the natural rock under the city wall. Once inside, follow the path deep into the caves. When the path begins to circle back, find a place to sit on the rocks and read.
Summer, 9 a.m.–5 p.m.; winter, 9 a.m.–4 p.m.; holiday evenings until 2 p.m. Closed Friday, open Saturday. Entrance fee. Restrooms.
• Climb up the Old City ramparts and walk on top of the walls from the Jaffa Gate to the Damascus Gate.
• Visit the Garden Tomb, the Protestant alternative to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
• Enjoy a drink and spectacular views of the Old City from the terrace café at Notre Dame.
Map 4. Dead Sea vicinity
For the narrative behind this destination, see chapter 1, “Rahab at Jericho.”
Two sites within a few miles of each other paint the picture of this story. If you have lots of time, start with Vered Yeriho (1). If you’re short on time skip directly to Qasr el Yehud (2). Both sites are within the immediate vicinity of the modern city of Jericho (3).
First Stop: Start at the lookout point from Moshav Vered Yeriho. Set your GPS to “Vered Yeriho.” If you are using a map, coming down eastward from Jerusalem on Route 1 turn left at the Jericho junction and drive a short distance until you reach a turnoff on the left and sign pointing to Vered Yeriho. Continue up the road until you reach the entrance of the moshav. After passing through the gate turn right and then take another immediate right. Drive along the settlement fence for about 200 meters (650 feet) until you reach a lookout point with two benches in a garden on your right, at the Pninat Vered guesthouse (telephone: 02-9942763). Park on the right and take a seat on the benches.
Second Stop: When you finish reading the Rahab story, proceed to our second stop, Qasr el Yehud (2): Return to the Jericho junction at Route 1 and turn left, driving toward the Dead Sea. Proceed a short distance down the road and turn left onto Route 90 North, the Jericho bypass road (if you reach the Dead Sea, you’ve gone too far). Drive a few miles up the road until you reach the sign for Qasr el Yehud on the right. Turn right and drive approximately three kilometers (two miles) eastward until you reach the entrance of the park, which is a Christian pilgrims’ baptismal site on the Jordan River.
Although the Jordan River was wider and deeper in biblical times than it is today, standing on its banks gives you a fabulous picture of a barren, unforgiving wilderness festooned with a single green ribbon. Shortly after the two spies returned to camp, the Israelites crossed the river at Jericho, somewhere near here, and set the story of the conquest of the land in motion.
First Stop: 24/7. Note: no access to restrooms here. Restrooms and snack bar available at the Almog gas station just past the Jericho intersection on Route 1.
Second Stop: April–September: 8 a.m.–5 p.m., Friday and holiday eves 8 a.m.–4 p.m. October–March: 8 a.m.–4 p.m., Fridays and holiday eves 8 a.m.–3 p.m. Telephone: 02-6504844.
On the drive down from Jerusalem (or on the way back):
• Check out the Wadi Kelt lookout point for a fabulous view of St. George’s monastery.
• Visit the nature reserve at Ein Prat.
• Stop in at the Samaritan Museum.
For the narrative behind this destination, see chapter 9, “David’s Flight to En Gedi.”
Set your GPS to “Ein Gedi Nature Reserve” (it may appear as Nahal David). The En Gedi Field School and En Gedi Youth Hostel/Guesthouse are at the same turnoff, but Kibbutz En Gedi is about one kilometer (0.6 miles) south on Route 90. If you’re driving south on 90 and you’ve reached the kibbutz, you’ve gone too far.
If you’re using a map and coming from Jerusalem, head to the northeastern corner of the city, either via the Begin Highway, or Route 1 from the area of the Old City. Look for the signs to Highway 1 and Maaleh Adumim. Pass through a checkpoint and stay on 1 for about thirty-two kilometers (twenty miles) as you make a steep descent. Continue until you reach the Dead Sea, where Route 1 ends. Turn right at the intersection onto Route 90 and continue approximately thirty minutes to En Gedi Nature Reserve on the right. Take the paved path at the entrance and walk into the reserve until you find a shaded area to stop and read (there are benches along the way).
April–September, 8 a.m.–5 p.m.; October–March, 8 a.m.–4 p.m. From October to March, last entrance to the David Stream: 3 p.m.; last entrance to the Arugot Stream: 2 p.m. Last exit from the reserve 4 p.m. Telephone: 08-658-4285. Entrance fee. Restrooms, snack bar, souvenir shop.
Note: The En Gedi Nature Reserve includes the short (and most popular) hiking trail at Nahal David, several longer trails for experienced hikers, and the remains of an ancient synagogue with a beautiful mosaic floor. The short trail, which is circular, includes an uphill climb on marked paths to the David Waterfall. It is suitable for families and includes several wading pools fed by the stream on the way up. If you wish to opt for a more challenging hike of several hours, be sure to get an early start to avoid the heat and consult with the rangers at the entrance about maps, routes, and timing. In the warm months the heat at En Gedi is intense, so regardless of the duration of your visit, be sure to have plenty of drinking water when you start your hike. Fill up your water bottles at the cooler by the ticket booths.
• Hike up to the waterfall at Nahal David.
• Visit the ancient synagogue.
• Go for a dip in the Dead Sea.
• Visit Masada National Park.
• Visit Qumran National Park.
Map 5. Greater Jerusalem and central Israel
For the narrative behind this destination, see chapter 2, “Joshua in the Valley of Aijalon.”
Set your GPS to “Latrun Monastery.” If you are using a map, from Highway 1 (the Jerusalem–Tel Aviv Highway) get off at the Latrun Junction and onto Route 3 south (toward Ashkelon). Drive a short distance to the next intersection and turn left at the light to the Latrun Monastery. Follow the road up into the parking lot. Just before the lot a road branches off to the right with a blue and white trail marker. Park your car and return to the trail to begin the walk to the Crusader fortress on the hill. (Note: this uphill walk takes ten–fifteen minutes. Use extreme caution when walking through the ruins, which are full of pits and trenches. Due to tall, thorny weeds long pants are recommended.) Walk along the monastery’s fence, following the path up the hill. When the path straightens out, you will be standing beneath an old Jordanian outpost made of stone and concrete. On your left follow the path that cuts sharply through a breach in the fence until you reach the outpost. Sit down in the shade and take in the view.
Latrun fortress: during daylight hours. Monastery shop: 8:00 a.m.–12:00 noon, 1:00–6:00 p.m. Church: 8:00–11:00 a.m., 2:30–4:00 p.m. Closed Sundays.
• Tour the IDF Armored Corps museum and climb on the tanks.
• Take a walk on one of the hiking trails at Canada Park.
• Visit the monastery at Latrun and stop by the gift shop for local wine and olive oil.
For the narrative behind this destination, see chapter 5, “Samson at Zorah.”
Set your GPS to “Tel Beit Shemesh.” If you are using a map, from Highway 1 (the Jerusalem–Tel Aviv Highway) take the Shaar Hagai exit onto Route 38 south, toward Bet Shemesh. The tel is an archaeological site about 8.5 kilometers (a bit more than five miles) down the road on the right, but it’s not well marked. You will be close when you pass a large shopping center on the left and go over railroad tracks. Pass two yellow “slow” signs on either side of the road and then a large green sign that says “Bet Shemesh/Yishi.” Pull your car over at the green sign and park it safely. You are now at the entrance to the tel. Climb up the small incline and make yourself comfortable on the round concrete platform at the top of the hill.
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Take a drive through the sculpture path at the President’s Forest (Yaar Hanasi).
Visit the monastery at Bet Jimal.
For the narrative behind this destination, see chapter 8, “David and Goliath in the Valley of Elah.”
The brook of Elah is a dry creek bed that passes under a country road, and it’s easy to miss. Follow the instructions carefully and do not attempt to approach the brook from the wrong side of the road.
Set your GPS to “Haela Paz Service Station” and read further below to get from the gas station to the site.
If you are using a map, from Route 1, the Tel Aviv–Jerusalem Highway, turn off at the sign for Bet Shemesh, just west of Shaar Hagai onto Route 38 south. Follow 38 for 18 kilometers (about eleven miles). When you pass the turnoff to Tsafririm on the left, be ready to look for Haela Junction, where Route 38 bears right and the left turn leads to Route 375. Turn left onto 375, take an immediate right into the gas station parking lot, and make a U-turn, returning to Route 38 north. About seventy meters (two hundred feet) from the intersection, roll your car off the road and onto the shoulder where you can park safely. Walking in the same direction as the road, continue through the field along a beaten path until you reach the edge of the dry bed of the brook of Elah, which passes beneath Route 38.
• If you’re visiting during winter, drive up to Givat HaTurmusin to see the lupines.
• Explore the caves at Bet Guvrin National Park.
• Join a real archaeological dig with Archaeological Seminars (www.archesem.com).
For the narrative behind this destination, see chapter 7, “The Levite and His Concubine at Gibeah.”
This site is isolated and deserted, so it’s best to visit during daylight hours in a small group.
By car: From the French Hill Junction in Jerusalem, get on to Route 60 north, toward Pisgat Zeev. At the Pisgat Zeev exit, turn left at the light onto Yekutiel Adam Street. Take the second right turn (no street name), driving uphill, and make the first right. Drive up to the end of the street and park your car by the school. Walk up to the summit of the hill until you are standing beneath the shell of an unfinished building.
By light rail: Take the Red Line north and get off at the Bet Hanina station. Continue walking in the same direction as the train travels and make the first left turn onto an unnamed street (just by the car wash). Walk uphill and make the first right turn, continuing up the street past the school. Walk up to the summit of the hill until you reach the shell of an unfinished building.
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• Continue by car to Nebi Samuel and climb up to the roof of the mosque for a spectacular view.
• Walk or bicycle along the Ramot bike path.
For the narrative behind this destination, see chapter 6, “Ruth the Moabitess at Bethlehem.”
By car: Set your GPS to “Kibbutz Ramat Rahel.” As you reach the kibbutz you will come to a T intersection. The kibbutz is to the right, but you will turn left, following the sign to the Bell Position. Take the first right turn and follow the dirt road until you reach the kibbutz cemetery and park your car nearby. Continue walking in the same direction, following along the cemetery fence, passing the sculpture of two olive trees on pillars on your left. Follow the road, going straight, until you reach on old military position on the edge of the hill. Find a comfortable place to sit.
By bus: Take bus 7 from the center of town (King George Street) to Kibbutz Ramat Rahel, the last stop. From the bus stop, walk back toward the intersection and continue straight for a short distance until you reach a turnoff on the right to the Bell Position. Follow the road to its end, continuing straight until you reach the old military position on the edge of the hill.
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• Walk back via the olive tree sculpture.
• Explore the archaeological park at Kibbutz Ramat Rahel.
Map 6. Jezreel Valley
For the narrative behind this destination, see chapter 15, “Elijah at Mount Carmel.”
Set your GPS to “Muhraka.” If you are using a map: Take the coastal highway (Route 2) to Route 70, the Zichron Yaacov Interchange, and continue until you reach the Elyakim Interchange; an alternative is to take Highway 6 (toll road) to the Elyakim Interchange. At the traffic circle proceed north through a second traffic circle onto Route 672, driving up to the plateau of the Carmel ridge (a gas station is located on the right side of 672 north just after the second circle). Drive eight kilometers (five miles) until you reach a traffic circle; drive straight through it to a second circle, then a third, where you will see a brown sign on the right pointing toward the Carmelite monastery. Turn right from the circle onto a local road and follow it for a few kilometers until it ends at the Mukhraka, a Carmelite church and monastery.
Make your way up to the monastery roof via the stairs in the small shop to view the spectacular panorama. If it’s too hot up there, take in the view and read the introductory information. Then come back down to the main yard and find a quiet spot in the shade to read the Elijah story.
Open daily 8:30 a.m.–6 p.m. Entrance fee. Modest dress required (no shorts or tank tops). Restrooms.
Have lunch and tour the market of the Druze village Daliyat el Karmil.
Drive up to Mount Carmel and Haifa and tour the Bahai gardens.
For the narrative behind this destination, see chapter 3, “Deborah and Jael at Mount Tabor.”
Set your GPS to “Hill of the Precipice.” If you are using a map, coming from Afula drive north on Route 60 toward Nazareth and drive through the tunnel. When you emerge at the intersection, turn left. Drive about 800 meters (260 feet) and turn left at the second traffic light (a brown sign points to the Hill of the Precipice, approximately 2 kilometers [1.6 miles] from here). Follow the road and at the first fork make a left, continuing uphill. At the next intersection, at a pink and orange building, turn right and continue uphill. Pass through a large green gate and go straight until you reach a traffic circle at the summit of the hill. Park here and walk up the paved trail on the right until you reach a circular platform at the edge of the cliff overlooking the Jezreel Valley. Find a comfortable spot to sit and read.
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• Wander through downtown Nazareth and visit the Catholic Church of the Annunciation and the Church of St. Joseph; the Greek Catholic Synagogue Church; and the Greek Orthodox Church of St. Gabriel.
For the narrative behind this destination, see chapter 4, “Gideon at En Harod.”
Set your GPS to “Maayan Harod.” If you are using a map, take Route 71 east from Afula. Travel about ten kilometers (six miles) and take the turn off for Gid’ona on the right. Follow the road until you reach a traffic circle and turn right to the entrance of Maayan Harod, a national park. Park your car in the parking lot and follow along the road that continues into the park on foot, passing the gigantic swimming pool on your left. When you reach the public restrooms on the other side of the pool, turn left onto the footpath and follow it to the end, where you will find Gideon’s spring, the spring of Harod.
April–September, 8 a.m.–5 p.m. (entrance until 4 p.m.); October–March: 8 a.m.–4 p.m. (entrance until 3 p.m.). On Fridays and holiday eves the site closes one hour earlier. Entrance fee. Swimming pool. Restrooms. Recently the park has been closed on weekends. Call first for updated visiting hours. 04-653-2211.
• Tour the stunning mosaic floor of the ancient synagogue at Bet Alfa.
• Take a swim at the natural spring pool at Gan HaShlosha.
• Take a nature walk along the Harod Creek Trail (a sharp right turn before the train tracks as you approach Route 71; see http://www.kkl.org.il/eng/tourism-and-recreation/forests-and-parks/nahal-harod-park.aspx).
For the narrative behind this destination, see chapter 10, “King Saul at Mount Gilboa.”
GPS reception is unreliable in this area, so use a map. From Afula, take Route 60 south. Turn left at Yizrael junction onto Route 675, then an immediate right onto Route 667, the Mount Gilboa Scenic Route. Travel up the road for 5.5 kilometers (3 ½ miles) and turn left at the entrance for Mount Shaul. Drive 1.3 kilometers (0.8 miles) going straight until you reach a large parking lot. As you face the view (north) two observation platforms with stunning views of the Jezreel Valley are located at either end of the parking lot. The left one looks west toward Givat HaMoreh, and the right one looks east toward Bet She’an. Two paths connect the platforms: an upper, paved path and a lower, unpaved one marked with green and white trail markers.
Alternately, if you are coming from Route 90 in the east, make a left turn onto Route 667 from the east, just after you pass through the West Bank checkpoint. Stay with 667 for almost the whole length until you reach Mount Shaul on the right.
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• Visit the Bet She’an National Park.
• Cool off at the Gan Hashlosha swimming hole.
For the narrative behind this destination, see chapter 16, “Naboth’s Vineyard at Jezreel.”
Set your GPS to “Tel Izrael entrance.” If you are using a map, from Afula travel eastward on Route 71, toward Bet She’an. A few kilometers out of town turn right at Navot Junction onto Route 675 west. About one kilometer from the intersection turn right at the sign for Kibbutz Yizrael, and then an immediate right on the service road that goes down to Tel Jezreel. Park your car in the parking lot and follow the handicapped-accessible trail along the hillside, passing an obelisk monument to fallen soldiers on the left. Continue down the path until you reach a covered lookout area. Make yourself comfortable.
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• Go skiing, bike riding, or play laser tag at the Ski Gilboa site (www.skigilboa.co.il).
• Hike along the Harod Creek Trail (for more information, see http://www.kkl.org.il/eng/tourism-and-recreation/forests-and-parks/nahal-harod-park.aspx).
For the narrative behind this destination, see chapter 17, “Elisha and the Wealthy Woman at Shunem.”
Two sites paint the picture of this ancient town. The view from Givat HaMoreh enables a pastoral but distant panorama of the modern village of Sulam. A short ride into the village square enables a hands-on visit to the source of the ancient spring and a modern monument to the Shunammite woman. Both are recommended.
For the panoramic view from Givat HaMoreh: Set your GPS to “12 Seyfan St. Afula.” If you are using a map, from Afula drive northeast on Route 65. After you pass HaEmek Hospital on the right, turn right at the next light toward Givat HaMoreh onto Jabotinsky Street, which turns into Connecticut Street. Drive 0.75 kilometers (about ½ mile) and make the first right onto HaIrisim Street. Continue driving and make the fourth right turn onto Seyfan Street.
Park your car near no.12 and take in the view of Sulam village, located near the site of the biblical Shunem. The best view is between buildings 12 and 14. The small park at the end of the street has a comfortable bench to sit and read. If you would like to continue to the village, return to your car and head back toward Afula.
For the spring of Sulam village and the monument to the Shunammite woman: Set your GPS to “Kibbutz Merhavia,” which will bring you to Route 7155, just east of Afula. Follow the instructions below. If you are using a map, take Route 71 east from Afula and turn left onto Route 7155, just outside of town (see sign for Sulam Village, 3 kms). If you are coming from 71 west, look for the turnoff just before you reach Afula. Continue straight on 7155 through two traffic circles, passing Kibbutz Merhavya and the dairy cow barn on the right. When you reach a T intersection turn left and then make the first right turn. Continue straight, passing through the entrance of the village, until you reach a traffic circle. If it’s a quiet day during midweek, turn right at the circle and drive about three hundred meters (nine hundred feet) until you reach the mosque on the left. Park in the small square. On weekends or later in the day the square is full of cars, so park on the road near the traffic circle and walk the three hundred meters to the mosque.
The spring is located down a few steps between the mosque and Bnai Abu El Abed’s restaurant.
To reach the monument to the Shunammite woman, from the spring walk back toward the traffic circle and turn right at the mosque, up a steep hill, about one hundred meters (three hundred feet). On the right you will see a semicircular stone monument a few steps down from the road. Enter through green bars, down the steps to the left.
24/7. Come during daylight.
• Drive up to the summit of Mount Tabor to visit the Church of the Transfiguration.
For the narrative behind this destination, see chapter 21, “Megiddo—the Untold Story.”
Set your GPS to “Tel Megido.” If you are using a map: From the Tel Aviv area, take Highway 2 or Route 6 north to Route 65 east toward Afula. At the intersection of Route 66 (see prison on right), turn left onto Route 66 and drive a short distance to the entrance to Tel Megiddo on the left. From Jerusalem: take Highway 1 west to Route 6 north and follow above instructions.
Map 7. Northern Israel
For the narrative behind this destination, see chapter 12, “Absalom’s Flight to Geshur.”
Set your GPS to “Jordan River Park.” If you are using a map, coming from Tiberias drive clockwise around Lake Kinneret/the Sea of Galilee, going north along Route 90. When 90 breaks away from the lakeshore at the intersection, turn right and stay with the road as it becomes Route 87 and continues eastward along the lake. Pass Kfar Nahum on the right and then turn left a short distance down the road at Bet Zayda Junction, onto Route 888. Several meters (a few hundred feet) up the road, turn left into the Jordan River Park. After you pass the ticket booth at the entrance, bear left and continue down the road until you reach Tel Bethsaida.
After reading the additional information on the sign at the entrance, turn left (walking away from the restrooms) and proceed up the path that circumvents the tel until you reach the ancient gate. Read the introductory material about the ruins here, then proceed through the gate and follow the path to the left until you reach a lookout point with large, flat stones. Find a spot in the shade here to read the story of Amnon and Tamar.
April–September, 8 a.m.–6 p.m.; October–March, 8 a.m.–5 p.m. Entrance fee. Restrooms. In addition to the archaeological site, the park offers camping facilities, hiking trails, rafting and fishing on the Jordan, and more. See park rangers at entrance for more information.
• Go rafting on the Jordan River.
• Visit the Christian holy sites on the western shore of Lake Kinneret: Kfar Nahum, Mensa Christi, Tabgha and the Church of the Beatitudes
• Hike the path between Kfar Nahum and Tabgha.
For the narrative behind this destination, see chapter 14, “Jereboam in Dan.”
Set your GPS to “Tel Dan.” If you are using a map, from the area of Lake Kinneret drive northward on Route 90 until you reach the town of Kiryat Shemona. Drive straight through the town, and when you reach the other side turn right at the traffic light onto Route 99 (a mall is at the intersection on the right). Continue along 99 about ten kilometers (six miles) until you see a brown sign on the right side of the road pointing to the Tel Dan nature reserve on the left. Turn left and drive down the road into the reserve.
The Tel Dan nature reserve includes hiking paths, archaeological remains, and some of the most beautiful landscapes in Israel. Give yourself plenty of time here to enjoy the reserve and be sure to take a map when you pay your entrance fee. The ideal tour here should cover the high place, the Israelite gate, and the wading pool (if you’re up for a cool dip). Any route that takes you to these places is fine; here is one possibility: From the parking lot, walk along the paved trail until the wooden walkway ends at a T. Turn left, following the green arrows on the map and the sign to the Long Trail. You will tiptoe over the stepping-stones in the water, glide through the underbrush, and pass by the main spring of Dan. After the little amphitheater the path climbs slightly uphill and then turns left to the high place. This is where you will read the Jeroboam story. When you reach the high place, find a quiet spot to sit and continue reading.
When you are finished, follow the trail to the Israelite gate, another impressive excavated area of the ancient city. (You will find more information on the gate in the Tel Dan pamphlet.) Exit the ancient gate (not the modern, revolving one that takes you outside the reserve) and turn right, connecting with the ancient Dan trail (the orange arrows on the map). Follow this path back into the reserve until you reach the wading pool. When you’re ready to head back. take any of the trails pointing toward the exit.
April–September, 8 a.m.–5 p.m. (entrance until 4 p.m.); October–March: 8 a.m.–4 p.m. (entrance until 3 p.m.). On Fridays and holiday eves the reserve closes one hour earlier. Telephone: 04-6951579. Entrance fee. Restrooms.
• Ride the cable car up the Manara Cliff, where you can bike ride, rappel, or hike down.
• Drive up into the Golan Heights to see the Syrian border, pick fruit, visit a chocolate factory, or tour a winery.