3Entertainment

The West End is not only where you'll find the lion's share of London's theatres – 40 out of 215 – but also the city's two opera houses. Cinemas and comedy clubs abound, and the doyen of jazz clubs, Ronnie Scott's, is also here.

oWigmore HallCLASSICAL MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.wigmore-hall.org.uk; 36 Wigmore St, W1; tBond St)

This is one of the best and most active (more than 400 concerts a year) classical-music venues in town, not only because of its fantastic acoustics, beautiful art nouveau hall and great variety of concerts and recitals, but also because of the sheer standard of the performances. Built in 1901, it has remained one of the world's top places for chamber music.

oPizza Express Jazz ClubJAZZ

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7439 4962; www.pizzaexpresslive.com/venues/soho-jazz-club; 10 Dean St, W1; tickets £15-40; tTottenham Court Rd)

Pizza Express has been one of the best jazz venues in London since opening in 1969. It may be a strange arrangement, in a basement beneath a branch of the chain restaurant, but it's highly popular. Lots of big names perform here and promising artists such as Norah Jones, Gregory Porter and the late Amy Winehouse played here in their early days.

Times vary according to the day but doors are usually open at 7pm, with shows starting at 8.30pm. Check the website.

Royal Opera HouseOPERA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7304 4000; www.roh.org.uk; Bow St, WC2; tickets £4-270; tCovent Garden)

Classic opera in London has a fantastic setting on Covent Garden Piazza and coming here for a night is a sumptuous – if pricey – affair. Although the program has been fluffed up by modern influences, the main attractions are still the opera and classical ballet – all are wonderful productions and feature world-class performers.

Midweek matinees are usually cheaper than evening performances, and restricted-view seats cost as little as £4. Discounted tickets for each day of the week (two per customer available to the first 49 people in the queue) priced from £4 to £68 go on sale on Friday at 1pm; students must apply for special standby tickets (£10) by email. Half-price standby tickets four hours before the performance are very occasionally available. Free lunchtime recitals are held on Mondays, when possible, in the Crush Room or Paul Hamlyn Hall, depending on the program, though ongoing building works have recently seen the venue moved to the nearby Swiss Church London at 79 Endell St.

The PlaceDANCE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7121 1100; www.theplace.org.uk; 17 Duke’s Rd, WC1; tEuston Sq)

The birthplace of modern British dance is one of London's most exciting cultural venues, still concentrating on challenging and experimental choreography. Behind the late-Victorian terracotta facade you’ll find a 300-seat theatre, an arty, creative cafe atmosphere and a dozen training studios. Tickets usually cost from £15.

Prince Charles CinemaCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.princecharlescinema.com; 7 Leicester Pl, WC2; tickets £8-16; tLeicester Sq)

Leicester Sq cinema-ticket prices are very high, so wait until the first-runs have moved to the Prince Charles, central London’s cheapest cinema, where non-members pay only £9 to £11.50 for new releases. Also on the cards are mini-festivals, Q&As with film directors, classics, sleepover movie marathons and exuberant sing-along screenings of films like Frozen, The Sound of Music and Rocky Horror Picture Show (£16).

English National OperaOPERA

(ENO; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7845 9300; www.eno.org; St Martin's Lane, WC2; tLeicester Sq)

The English National Opera is celebrated for making opera modern and more relevant, as all productions are sung in English. It's based at the impressive London Coliseum, built in 1904 and lovingly restored a century later. The English National Ballet also does regular performances at the Coliseum. Tickets range from £12 to £125.

Poetry CaféPERFORMING ARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7420 9888; www.poetrysociety.org.uk; 22 Betterton St, WC2; h11am-11pm Mon-Fri, from 7pm Sat; tCovent Garden)

Covent Garden’s renovated Poetry Café is a favourite for lovers of verse. It has almost daily readings and performances by established poets, open-mic evenings and writing workshops.

Ronnie Scott’sJAZZ

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7439 0747; www.ronniescotts.co.uk; 47 Frith St, W1; h7pm-3am Mon-Sat, 1-4pm & 8pm-midnight Sun; tLeicester Sq, Tottenham Court Rd)

Ronnie Scott's jazz club opened at this address in 1965 and became widely known as Britain’s best. Support acts are at 7pm, with main gigs at 8.15pm (8pm Sunday) and a second house at 11.15pm Friday and Saturday (check ahead though). The more informal Late, Late Show runs from 1am to 3am. Expect to pay from £25 upwards; the Late, Late Show and Sunday lunch shows are just £10.

Ronnie Scott's has hosted such luminaries as Miles Davis, Charlie Parker, Thelonious Monk, Ella Fitzgerald, Count Basie and Sarah Vaughan. The club continues to build upon its formidable reputation by hosting a range of big names and new talent. The atmosphere is great, but talking during music is a big no-no.

Comedy StoreCOMEDY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0844 871 7699; www.thecomedystore.co.uk; 1a Oxendon St, SW1; tickets £8-22.50; tPiccadilly Circus)

This is one of the first (and still one of the best) comedy clubs in London. Wednesday and Sunday night’s Comedy Store Players is the most famous improvisation outfit in town, with the wonderful Josie Lawrence, now a veteran of two decades. On Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, Best in Stand Up features the best on London’s comedy circuit.

BorderlineLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7734 5547; http://borderline.london; Orange Yard, off Manette St, W1; tTottenham Court Rd)

Through the hard-to-find entrance off Orange Yard and down into the basement you’ll find a packed, 275-capacity venue that really punches above its weight. Read the gig list: Ed Sheeran, REM, Blur, Counting Crows, PJ Harvey, Lenny Kravitz and Pearl Jam, plus many anonymous indie outfits, have all played here. The crowd’s equally diverse but can contain music journos and record-company talent spotters.

100 ClubLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7636 0933; www.the100club.co.uk; 100 Oxford St, W1; tickets £8-20; hcheck website for gig times; tOxford Circus, Tottenham Court Rd)

This heritage London venue at the same address for over a half-century started off as a jazz club but now leans towards rock. Back in the day it showcased Chris Barber, BB King and the Rolling Stones, and it was at the centre of the punk revolution and the '90s indie scene. It hosts dancing gigs, the occasional big name, where-are-they-now bands and top-league tributes.

Amused Moose SohoCOMEDY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %box office 020-7287 3727; www.amusedmoose.com; Sanctum Soho Hotel, 20 Warwick St, W1; tPiccadilly Circus, Oxford Circus)

One of the city’s best clubs, the peripatetic Amused Moose (the cinema in the Sanctum Soho Hotel is just one of its hosting venues) is popular with audiences and comedians alike, perhaps helped along by the fact that heckling is ‘unacceptable’ and all the acts are ‘first-date friendly’ (ie unlikely to humiliate the front row). Shows are usually at 8.15pm on Saturday.

Royal BalletBALLET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.roh.org.uk; tCovent Garden)

Although the Royal Ballet's program has been altered by modern influences, classical ballet is still its bread and butter. This is where to head if you want to see traditional performances such as Giselle or Romeo & Juliet performed by established dancers. They're based at the Royal Opera House.

Donmar WarehouseTHEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0844 871 7624; www.donmarwarehouse.com; 41 Earlham St, WC2; tCovent Garden)

The cosy Donmar Warehouse is London's ‘thinking person’s theatre’. Current artistic director Josie Rourke has staged some intriguing and successful productions, including the well-received comedy My Night with Reg, George Bernard Shaw's St Joan and the political drama Limehouse by Steve Waters.

ICA CinemaCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7930 3647; www.ica.art/whats-on/films; Nash House, The Mall, SW1; tCharing Cross, Piccadilly Circus)

The Institute of Contemporary Arts (ICA) is a treasure for lovers of indie cinema – its program always has material no one else is showing, such as the latest independents from the developing world, films showing out of season, all-night screenings and rare documentaries. The two cinemas are quite small, but comfortable enough. Tickets usually cost £6 to £11.

Curzon SohoCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.curzoncinemas.com; 99 Shaftesbury Ave, W1; tickets £8-15; tLeicester Sq, Piccadilly Circus)

The Curzon Soho is one of London’s best cinemas. It has a fantastic program line-up with the best of British, European, US and world indie films; regular Q&As with directors; shorts and mini festivals; a cafe on the ground floor with cakes to die for; and an ultra-comfortable bar upstairs.

Soho TheatreCOMEDY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7478 0100; www.sohotheatre.com; 21 Dean St, W1; tickets £8-25; tTottenham Court Rd)

The Soho Theatre has developed a superb reputation for showcasing new comedy-writing talent and comedians. It’s also hosted some top-notch stand-up or sketch-based comedians including Alexei Sayle and Doctor Brown, plus cabaret. Staff don't always seem to get the joke.

7Shopping

The West End’s shopping scene hardly needs a formal introduction. Oxford St is heaven or hell, depending on what you’re after. It’s all about chains, from Marks & Spencer to H&M, Top Shop to Gap. Covent Garden is also beset by run-of-the-mill outlets, but they tend to be smaller and counterbalanced by independent boutiques, vintage ones in particular. As well as fashion, the West End is big on music and books, with some great independent shops specialising in both.

7Westminster & St James's

oFortnum & MasonDEPARTMENT STORE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7734 8040; www.fortnumandmason.com; 181 Piccadilly, W1; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, 11.30am-6pm Sun; tPiccadilly Circus)

With its classic eau-de-Nil (pale green) colour scheme, 'the Queen's grocery store' established in 1707 refuses to yield to modern times. Its staff – men and women – still wear old-fashioned tailcoats and its glamorous food hall is supplied with hampers, cut marmalade, speciality teas, superior fruitcakes and so forth. Fortnum & Mason remains the quintessential London shopping experience.

HatchardsBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7439 9921; www.hatchards.co.uk; 187 Piccadilly, W1; h9.30am-8pm Mon-Sat, noon-6.30pm Sun; tGreen Park, Piccadilly Circus)

London's oldest bookshop dates back to 1797. Holding three royal warrants, it's a stupendous bookshop now in the Waterstones stable, with a solid supply of signed editions and bursting at its smart seams with very browsable stock. There's a strong selection of first editions on the ground floor and regularly scheduled literary events.

Waterstones PiccadillyBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7851 2433; www.waterstones.com; 203-206 Piccadilly, W1; h9am-9.30pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun; tPiccadilly Circus)

The chain’s megastore is the largest bookshop in Europe, with helpful, knowledgeable staff and regular author readings, signings and discussions. The store spreads across eight floors, with a fabulous rooftop bar–restaurant, 5th View, and Cafe W in the basement.

Penhaligon’sPERFUME

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7629 1416; www.penhaligons.com; 16-17 Burlington Arcade, W1; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-6.30pm Sat, 11.30am-5.30pm Sun; tPiccadilly Circus, Green Park)

Located in the historic Burlington Arcade, Penhaligon’s is a classic British perfumery. Attendants enquire about your favourite smells, take you on an exploratory tour of the shop's signature range and help you discover new scents in their traditional perfumes, home fragrances and bath and body products. Everything is produced in England.

Paxton & WhitfieldFOOD & DRINKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7930 0259; www.paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk; 93 Jermyn St, W1; h10am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; tPiccadilly Circus, Green Park)

With modest beginnings as an Aldwych stall in 1742 and purveying a dizzying range of fine cheeses, this black- and gold-fronted shop holds two royal warrants. Whatever your cheese leanings, you'll find the shop well supplied with hard and soft cheeses as well as blue and washed-rind examples.

Taylor of Old Bond StreetCOSMETICS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7930 5321; www.tayloroldbondst.co.uk; 74 Jermyn St, SW1; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat; tGreen Park, Piccadilly Circus)

Plying its trade since the mid-19th century, this shop supplies the ‘well-groomed gentleman' with every sort of razor, shaving brush and scent of shaving soap imaginable – not to mention oils, soaps and other bath products.

BrownsCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7629 1416; www.brownsfashion.com; 23-27 South Molton St, W1; h10am-7pm Mon-Wed & Sat, to 8pm Thu & Fri, noon-6pm Sun; tBond St)

Edgy and exciting, this parade of shops on upmarket South Molton St is full of natty and individual clothing ideas and shoes from Ashish, Stella Jean, Natasha Zinko and other creative designers.

7Bloomsbury & Fitzrovia

James Smith & SonsFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7836 4731; www.james-smith.co.uk; 53 New Oxford St, WC1; h10am-5.45pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, 10.30am-5.45pm Wed, 10am-5.15pm Sat; tTottenham Court Rd)

Nobody makes and stocks such elegant umbrellas (not to mention walking sticks and canes) as this place. It's been fighting the British weather from the same address since 1857 and, thanks to London's ever-present downpours, will hopefully do great business for years to come. Prices start at around £40 for a pocket umbrella.

Scandinavian KitchenFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7580 7161; www.scandikitchen.co.uk; 61 Great Titchfield St, W1; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun; tOxford Circus)

Scandinavian Kitchen was established by a homesick Dane and Swede who couldn’t find authentic Scandinavian food in London. The small shop, which specialises in Nordic cuisine, doubles as a cafe and serves some of the best open sandwiches (£5.95 to £8.50) in the city.

JarndyceBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7631 4220; www.jarndyce.co.uk; 46 Great Russell St, WC1; h11am-5.30pm Mon-Fri; tTottenham Court Rd)

Named after a court case in Charles Dickens' Bleak House, this antiquarian bookshop is opposite the British Museum in a building dating from the early 18th century. It specialises in literature from around that period – particularly Dickens – but is packed with other affordable curiosities.

London Review BookshopBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7269 9030; www.londonreviewbookshop.co.uk; 14 Bury Pl, WC1; h10am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; tHolborn)

The flagship bookshop of the London Review of Books fortnightly literary journal doesn’t put faith in towering piles of books and slabs on shelves, but offers a wide range of titles in a handful of copies only. It often hosts high-profile author talks (tickets usually £10), and there's a charming cafe where you can leaf through your new purchases.

Forbidden PlanetCOMICS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7420 3666; www.forbiddenplanet.com; 179 Shaftesbury Ave, WC2; h10am-7pm Mon & Tue, to 7.30pm Wed, Fri & Sat, to 8pm Thu, noon-6pm Sun; tTottenham Court Rd)

Forbidden Planet is a trove of comics, sci-fi, horror and fantasy literature, as well as action figures and toys, spread over two floors. It's an absolute dream for anyone into manga comics, off-beat genre titles, and sci-fi and fantasy memorabilia.

FolkFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %men's 020-7404 6458, women's 020-8616 4191; www.folkclothing.com; 49 Lamb's Conduit St, WC1; h11am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun; tHolborn)

Offers simple but strikingly styled casual clothes, often in bold colours and with a handcrafted feel. Head for No 49 for Folk's own line of menswear and to nearby No 53 for womenswear.

Gay’s the WordBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7278 7654; www.gaystheword.co.uk; 66 Marmont St, WC1; h10am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 2-6pm Sun; tRussell Sq)

This London gay institution has been selling books nobody else stocks since 1979, with a superb range of gay- and lesbian-interest books and magazines plus a real community spirit. Used books available as well.

Persephone BooksBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7242 9292; www.persephonebooks.co.uk; 59 Lamb's Conduit St, WC1; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, noon-5pm Sat; tRussell Sq)

This charming and very low-key bookshop sells works published by independent Bloomsbury publishers, most of which are reprints of neglected fiction and nonfiction by early to mid-20th-century women writers. There are some lovely gift items here, including porcelain repros of London Blue Plaques.

Blade Rubber StampsARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7831 4242; www.bladerubberstamps.co.uk; 12 Bury Pl, WC1; h10.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11.30am-4.30pm Sun; tHolborn)

Just south of the British Museum, this specialist shop stocks just about every wooden-handled rubber stamp you care to imagine: from London icons like phone boxes, Beefeaters and the Houses of Parliament to landscapes, planets, rockets and Christmas stamps. They can make you one to your design or you can have a go yourself with a stamp-making kit.

7Soho & Chinatown

HamleysTOYS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0371 704 1977; www.hamleys.com; 188-196 Regent St, W1; h10am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-9pm Sat, noon-6pm Sun; tOxford Circus)

Claiming to be the world’s oldest (and some say, the largest) toy store, Hamleys moved to its address on Regent St in 1881. From the basement's Star Wars Collection and ground floor where staff blow bubbles and glide foam boomerangs through the air with practised nonchalance to Lego World and a cafe on the 5th floor, it's a rich layer cake of playthings.

LibertyDEPARTMENT STORE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7734 1234; www.liberty.co.uk; Great Marlborough St, W1; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; tOxford Circus)

An irresistible blend of contemporary styles in an old-fashioned mock-Tudor atmosphere (1875), Liberty has a huge cosmetics department and an accessories floor, along with a breathtaking lingerie section, all at sky-high prices. A classic London gift or souvenir is a Liberty fabric print, especially in the form of a scarf.

Grant & CutlerBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-3206 2640; www.grantandcutler.com; 4th fl, 107 Charing Cross Rd, WC2; h9.30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11.30am-6pm Sun; tOxford Circus)

The UK’s largest foreign-language bookseller with titles representing more than 100 languages is located on the 4th floor of Foyles.

FoylesBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7434 1574; www.foyles.co.uk; 107 Charing Cross Rd, WC2; h9.30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11.30am-6pm Sun; tTottenham Court Rd)

This is London's most legendary bookshop, where you can bet on finding even the most obscure of titles. Once synonymous with chaos, Foyles got its act together and in 2014 moved just down the road into the spacious former home of Central St Martins art school. Thoroughly redesigned, its stunning new home is a joy to explore.

The cafe is on the 5th floor, where you can also find the Gallery at Foyles for art exhibitions. Grant & Cutler, the UK’s largest foreign-language bookseller, is on the 4th floor while Ray’s Jazz ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7440 3205; www.foyles.co.uk; 2nd fl, 107 Charing Cross Rd, WC2; h9.30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11.30am-6pm Sun; tTottenham Court Rd) is on the 2nd floor.

We Built This CityGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-3642 9650; www.webuilt-thiscity.com; 56-57 Carnaby St, W1; h10am-7pm Mon-Wed, to 8pm Thu-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; tOxford Circus)

Taking a commendable stand against Union Jack hats and black cab key rings, We Built This City is a shop selling London-themed souvenirs that the recipient might actually want. The products are artistic and thoughtful, and celebrate the city’s creative side.

PhonicaMUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7025 6070; www.phonicarecords.co.uk; 51 Poland St, W1; h11.30am-7.30pm Mon-Wed & Sat, to 8pm Thu & Fri, noon-6pm Sun; tTottenham Court Rd, Oxford Circus)

A cool and relaxed shop that stocks a lot of house, electro, hip hop and punk funk mostly on vinyl. You'll also find just about anything from reggae to dub, jazz and rock.

Sounds of the UniverseMUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7734 3430; www.soundsoftheuniverse.com; 7 Broadwick St, W1; h10am-7.30pm Sat, 11.30am-5.30pm Sun; tOxford Circus, Tottenham Court Rd)

Outlet of the Soul Jazz Records label (responsible for many great soul, reggae, funk and electronic albums), this place stocks CDs and vinyl plus some original 45s.

Lina StoresFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7437 6482; www.linastores.co.uk; 18 Brewer St, W1; h8.30am-7.30pm Mon & Tue, to 8.30pm Wed-Fri, 9am-7.30pm Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; tPiccadilly Circus)

This delightful Italian delicatessen in the heart of Soho, here since 1944, is so gorgeous in its cream and pastel green that you could almost imagine eating it. Come here for picnic cheeses, charcuterie, bread and olives. In fine weather tables line the adjacent alleyway appropriately named Green's Court.

Urban OutfittersFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7907 0800; www.urbanoutfitters.co.uk; 200 Oxford St, W1; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; tOxford Circus)

Probably the trendiest of all chains, this cool Philadelphia-based store serves both men and women and has the best young designer T-shirts, an excellent designer area (stocking Angel Chan, MM6, Peter Jensen and Something Else, among others), ‘renewed’ secondhand pieces, saucy underwear, records, fun homewares and quirky gadgets.

Agent ProvocateurCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7439 0229; www.agentprovocateur.com; 6 Broadwick St, W1; h11am-7pm Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat, 11am-8pm Thu, noon-5pm Sun; tOxford Circus)

For women’s lingerie designed to be worn and seen, and certainly not hidden, pull up to wonderful Agent Provocateur, originally set up by Joseph Corré, son of Vivienne Westwood. Its sexy and saucy corsets, and bras and nighties for all shapes and sizes, exude confident and positive sexuality. Lovely staff too.

Algerian Coffee StoresCOFFEE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7437 2480; www.algcoffee.co.uk; 52 Old Compton St, W1; h9am-7pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri, to 8pm Sat; tLeicester Sq)

Stop for a shot of espresso (£1) or cappuccino (£1.20) while choosing your freshly ground beans from over 80 varieties of coffee and 120 teas at this fantastic shop, caffeinating Soho since 1887.

TopshopCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7927 0000; www.topshop.co.uk; 214 Oxford St, W1; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11.30am-6pm Sun; tOxford Circus)

The ‘It’ store when it comes to clothes and accessories, venturing boldly into couture in recent years, Topshop encapsulates London's supreme skill at bringing catwalk fashion to the youth market affordably and quickly.

7Covent Garden & Leicester Square

Stanford’sBOOKS, MAPS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7836 1321; www.stanfords.co.uk; 12-14 Long Acre, WC2; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 11.30am-6pm Sun; tLeicester Sq, Covent Garden)

Trading from this address since 1853, this granddaddy of travel bookshops and seasoned seller of maps, guides, globes and literature is a destination in its own right. Ernest Shackleton and David Livingstone and, more recently, Michael Palin and Brad Pitt have all popped in and shopped here.

Neal’s Yard DairyFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7240 5700; www.nealsyarddairy.co.uk; 17 Shorts Gardens, WC2; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat; tCovent Garden)

A fabulous, fragrant cheese house that would fit in in rural England, this place is proof that Britain can produce top-quality world-class cheeses in most classes. There are more than 70 varieties of English and Irish cheeses that the shopkeepers will let you taste, including independent farmhouse brands. Condiments, pickles, jams and chutneys are also on sale.

Cambridge Satchel CompanyFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-3077 1100; www.cambridgesatchel.com; 31 James St, WC2; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun; tCovent Garden)

The classic British leather satchel concept has morphed into a trendy and colourful array of backpacks, totes, clutches, work and music bags, mini satchels and more for men and women.

Molton BrownCOSMETICS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7240 8383; www.moltonbrown.co.uk; 18 Russell St, WC2; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun; tCovent Garden)

A fabulously fragrant British natural beauty range, Molton Brown is the choice for boutique hotel, posh restaurant and 1st-class airline bathrooms. Its skincare products offer plenty of pampering for both men and women. In this store you can also pick up home accessories.

WatkinsBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7836 2182; www.watkinsbooks.com; 19-21 Cecil Court, WC2; h10.30am-6.30pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 11am-7.30pm Thu & Sat, noon-7pm Sun; tLeicester Sq)

More books than you can shake a dreamcatcher at on subjects as wide-ranging as the afterlife, taijiquan, divination, fairies, tarot, the Kabbalah, shamanism, religious spirituality, astrology, Indian philosophy, Tibetan Buddhism, conspiracy theories and more. If you've even the mildest interest in the occult, you could find yourself here for hours (if not days).

Monmouth Coffee CompanyFOOD & DRINKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7232 3010; www.monmouthcoffee.co.uk; 27 Monmouth St, WC2; pastry & cakes from £2.50; h8am-6.30pm Mon-Sat; tTottenham Court Rd, Leicester Sq)

Essentially a shop selling beans from just about every coffee-growing country, Monmouth, here since 1978, has wooden alcoves at the back where you can squeeze in and savour blends from around the world as well as cakes from local patisseries.

Ted BakerFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7836 7808; www.tedbaker.com; 9-10 Floral St, WC2; h10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat, noon-6pm Sun; tCovent Garden)

The one-time Glasgow-based tailor shop has grown into a superb brand of clothing for both men and women. Ted’s forte is its formal wear, with beautiful dresses for women (lots of daring prints and exquisite material) and sharp tailoring for men. The casual collections (denim, beachwear etc) are excellent too.

Reckless RecordsMUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7437 4271; www.reckless.co.uk; 30 Berwick St, W1; h10am-7pm; tOxford Circus, Tottenham Court Rd)

This outfit hasn’t really changed in spirit since it first opened its doors in 1984. It still stocks secondhand records and CDs, from punk, soul, dance and independent to mainstream.

Sister RayMUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7734 3297; www.sisterray.co.uk; 75 Berwick St, W1; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; tOxford Circus, Tottenham Court Rd)

If you were a fan of the late John Peel on the BBC, this specialist in innovative, experimental and indie music is just right for you. Those of you who have never heard of him will probably also like the shop that 'sells music to the masses'.

7Marylebone

Daunt BooksBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7224 2295; www.dauntbooks.co.uk; 83 Marylebone High St, W1; h9am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun; tBaker St)

An original Edwardian bookshop, with oak panels, galleries and gorgeous skylights, Daunt is one of London’s loveliest travel bookshops. It has two floors and stocks general fiction and nonfiction titles as well. Helpful, informed staff.

Cath KidstonFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7935 6555; www.cathkidston.com; 51 Marylebone High St, W1; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; tBaker St)

If you favour the preppy look, you’ll love Cath Kidston's signature floral prints and vintage-inspired fashion. There's also a range of homewares and some delightful London-branded gift items.

Abercrombie & FitchFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0844 412 5750; www.abercrombie.com; 7 Burlington Gardens, W1; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; tPiccadilly Circus)

All tall wood doors, hip sounds, low lighting and two floors of stylish casual wear staffed by over-sized lads, A&F is one cool customer that hasn't waned in popularity. The shop is busy from the minute it opens its doors, and at weekends there are sometimes queues through the ground floor.

Button QueenARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7935 1505; www.thebuttonqueen.co.uk; 76 Marylebone Lane, W1; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat; tBond St)

Make a beeline to this place for all your fastening needs. It’s been in business for more than 60 years and is creaking under the weight of an absurd variety of buttons, including ones old enough to qualify as antiques.

Postcard TeasFOOD & DRINKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7629 3654; www.postcardteas.com; 9 Dering St, W1; h10.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-6.30pm Sat; tBond St)

If you know your longjing from your pu'er, or your Nokcha from your Lotus Lake Green – or wish to know the differences – Postcard Teas could be, well, your cup of tea. This small shop specialises in carefully sourced teas and small producers (15 acres or less) from China, Japan, Vietnam, Korea, Taiwan and India.

SelfridgesDEPARTMENT STORE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0800 123 400; www.selfridges.com; 400 Oxford St, W1; h9.30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11.30am-6pm Sun; tBond St)

Selfridges loves innovation – it’s famed for its inventive window displays by international artists, gala shows and, above all, its amazing range of products. It’s the trendiest of London’s one-stop shops, with labels such as Alexander McQueen, Tom Ford, Missoni, Victoria Beckham and so on; an unparalleled food hall; and Europe’s largest cosmetics department.

MulberryFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7491 3900; www.mulberry.com; 50 New Bond St, W1; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; tBond St)

Mulberry bags are voluptuous and a massive style statement. The brand has followed in the footsteps of its other British design titans like Burberry and Pringle and modernised itself in recent years.

BurberryFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-3402 1500; www.burberry.com; 21-23 New Bond St, SW1; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, noon-6.30pm Sun; tBond St)

The first traditional British brand to reach the heights of fashion, Burberry is known for its innovative take on classic pieces (eg brightly coloured trench coat and khaki pants with large and unusual pockets), its brand check pattern, and a tailored, groomed look.

John LewisDEPARTMENT STORE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0345 604 9049; www.johnlewis.co.uk; 300 Oxford St, W1; h9.30am-8pm Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat, to 9pm Thu, 11.30am-6pm Sun; tOxford Circus)

‘Never knowingly undersold’ is the motto of this store, whose range of household goods, fashion and luggage is better described as reliable rather than cutting edge. And for that reason it's some people's favourite store in the whole wide world.

Beatles StoreGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7935 4464; www.beatlesstorelondon.co.uk; 230 Baker St, NW1; h10am-6.30pm; tBaker St)

Fab Four guitar picks, Abbey Road fridge magnets, Ringo T-shirts, mop top mugs, Magical Mystery Tour bags, Yellow Submarine Christmas lights, Help! posters, alarm clocks…the whole Beatles shebang. Other artistes (from Bowie and Queen to Nirvana and Jimi Hendrix) are represented in their sister shop It's Only Rock 'n' Roll across the street.

Stella McCartneyFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7518 3100; www.stellamccartney.com; 30 Bruton St, W1; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat; tBond St, Green Park)S

Stella McCartney's sharp tailoring, floaty designs, accessible style and ‘ethical’ approach to fashion (no leather or fur) is very of-the-moment. This three-storey terraced Victorian home is a minimalist showcase for the designer’s current collections. Depending on your devotion and wallet, you’ll feel at ease or like a trespasser.

Monocle ShopFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7486 8770; www.monocle.com; 2a George St, W1; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun; tBond St)

Run by the people behind the design and international current affairs magazine Monocle, this tiny (and attitudy) shop stocks very costly clothing, bags, umbrellas and books (including their own guides). But if you are a fan of minimalist quality design, you'll want to stop by. There's the Monocle Cafe ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7135 2040; http://cafe.monocle.com; 18 Chiltern St, W1; mains £5.50-9; h7am-7pm Mon-Wed, to 8pm Thu & Fri, 8am-8pm Sat, to 7pm Sun; W; tBaker St) not far away too, on Chiltern St.

7Mayfair

Vivienne WestwoodFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7439 1109; www.viviennewestwood.com; 44 Conduit St, W1; h10am-6pm Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat, to 7pm Thu, noon-5pm Sun; tBond St, Oxford Circus)

The designer who created the punk look has always had a reputation for being controversial (she flashed her privates at the paparazzi after receiving her OBE). Thankfully, though, La Westwood continues to design clothes as bold, innovative and provocative as ever, featuring 19th-century-inspired bustiers, wedge shoes, tartan and sharp tailoring.

GinaSHOES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7499 7539; www.gina.com; 119 Mount St, W1; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Thu, noon-5pm Sun; tBond St)

Beyond the quality of leathers and fabrics and gorgeously chic styling, a frequent motif of these beautifully made and elegant British couture women's sling backs, stilettos, court shoes, flat sandals, peep toes and platforms is their glittering Swarovski crystals. Prices start from around £485.

Grays AntiquesANTIQUES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.graysantiques.com; 58 Davies St, W1; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat; tBond St)

Some 200 specialist stallholders selling antique jewellery, costumes, military collectables, Oriental works and much more can be found in two buildings, the main one on Davies St and an adjoining one on Davies Mews. Make sure you head to the basement of the Mews Building where the Tyburn River still runs through a channel in the floor. Not all dealers open on Saturday.

2Sports & Activities

Royal Opera HouseTOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7304 4000; www.roh.org.uk; Bow St, WC2; adult/child general tours £9.50/7.50, backstage tours £12/8.50; hgeneral tour 4pm daily, backstage tour 10.30am, 12.30pm & 2.30pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am, 11.30am, 12.30pm & 1.30pm Sat; tCovent Garden)

On the northeastern side of Covent Garden Piazza is the gleaming Royal Opera House. The Velvet, Gilt & Glamour Tour is a general, 45-minute twirl around the auditorium; more distinctive is the 1¼-hour backstage tour taking you through the venue. The latter is a much better way to experience the preparation, excitement and histrionics before a performance.

Vertical ChillADVENTURE SPORTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7395 1010; www.vertical-chill.com/location-london; 10-12 Southampton St, WC2; climb £25, incl gear £35, incl tuition & gear £50; h11.30am-6.30pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun; tCovent Garden)

‘Ice climbing’ and ‘Central London’ aren’t usually seen in the same sentence, but Vertical Chill, the company responsible for an 8m wall of ice complete with overhang, have made it a reality. You can hire equipment and tuition for an added fee. Find it located inside a giant freezer in the basement of Covent Garden’s Ellis Brigham Mountain Sports shop.