Richmond, Kew & Hampton Court
Richmond, Kew & Hampton Court
Neighbourhood Top Five
1Listening out for poltergeists along the galleries and vaults of majestic Hampton Court Palace before getting lost in the maze.
2Plunging into the luxuriant green expanses, wooded thickets and tropical foliage of Kew Gardens.
3Turning your back on urban London to discover a pristine pocket of wilderness at the London Wetland Centre.
4Sinking a pint of beer at the historic riverside White Cross pub while trying to avoid being cut off by the high tide.
5Exploring London’s wild side, roaming at will around Richmond Park.
Explore Richmond, Kew & Hampton Court
Richmond, Kew and Hampton Court is the London you barely knew existed and you’ll need a few days getting to fathom the charms of this adorable neighbourhood. The shiny city is a galaxy away: this is where the green and pleasant land of England commences. Start early in the morning with Kew Gardens, but you may find yourself there the entire day, getting magnificently lost. If you escape, head south to laze by the river in grand Richmond, Instagramming some of London’s most delightful river views. Richmond Park and Wimbledon Common offer rambling opportunities galore. Several excellent hotels allow you to overnight here, if you wish, so your explorations can continue to Hampton Court Palace, the UK’s most magnificent chunk of Tudor architecture; ghost hunters will want to check out this famously haunted palace to really get into the 'spirit' of things. Night-times are pretty low-key in the neighbourhood, but you've a bevy of waterside pubs to treat you to a more languorous perspective of the city as it melds with pastoral England. You might not find yourself coming here exclusively to shop, but bring your wallet as there’s no shortage of fine dining to fill your tummy.
Local Life
AHang-outs Get into the riverside pub-lunch mood joining locals quaffing beer at the City Barge or White Cross.
AGreenery Londoners from all over town bolt down to Richmond Park and Kew Gardens for weekend great escapes.
ARiver views Join locals jogging by the river, walking their dogs or catching some sunshine north and south of Richmond Bridge.
Getting There & Away
ATrain & Underground Both Kew Gardens and Richmond are on the District Line and London Overground; Richmond train station can be reached from Clapham Junction. Trains run to Hampton Court station from Waterloo. East Putney, Putney Bridge, Fulham Broadway and Chiswick Park are on the District Line.
ABoat Services run several times daily from Westminster Pier to Kew and on to Hampton Court Palace (boats sometimes stop at Richmond).
TOP SIGHT
Hampton Court Palace
London’s most spectacular Tudor palace, this 16th-century icon concocts an imposing sense of history, from the huge kitchens and grand living quarters to the spectacular gardens, complete with a 300-year-old maze.
History of the Palace
Hampton Court Palace was built by Cardinal Thomas Wolsey in 1515, but was coaxed from him by Henry VIII just before Wolsey (as chancellor) fell from favour. It was already one of the most sophisticated palaces in Europe when, in the 17th century, Sir Christopher Wren was commissioned to build an extension. The result is a beautiful blend of Tudor and 'restrained baroque' architecture. The palace was opened to the public by Queen Victoria in 1838.
Entering the Palace
Passing through the magnificent main gate, you arrive first in the Base Court and beyond that Clock Court, named after its 16th-century astronomical clock. The panelled rooms and arched doorways in the Young Henry VIII's Story upstairs from Base Court provide a rewarding introduction: note the Tudor graffiti on the fireplace. Off Base Court to the right as you enter, and acquired by Charles I in 1629, Andrea Magenta's nine-painting series The Triumphs of Caesar portray Julius Caesar returning to Rome in a triumphant procession.
Henry VIII’s State Apartments
The stairs inside Anne Boleyn’s Gateway lead up to Henry VIII’s Apartments, including the stunning Great Hall. The Horn Room, hung with impressive antlers, leads to the Great Watching Chamber where guards controlled access to the king. Henry VIII's dazzling gemstone-encrusted crown has been re-created – the original was melted down by Oliver Cromwell – and sits in the Royal Pew (open 10am to 4pm Monday to Saturday and 12.30pm to 1.30pm Sunday), which overlooks the beautiful Chapel Royal (still a place of worship after 450 years).
Tudor Kitchens & Great Wine Cellar
Also dating from Henry’s day are the delightful Tudor kitchens, once used to rustle up meals for a royal household of some 1200 people. Don’t miss the Great Wine Cellar, which handled the 300 barrels each of ale and wine consumed here annually in the mid-16th century.
William III's & Mary II's Apartments
A tour of William III's Apartments, completed by Wren in 1702, takes you up the grand King’s Staircase. Highlights include the King’s Presence Chamber, dominated by a throne backed with scarlet hangings. During a devastating fire in 1986 which gutted an entire wing of the palace, staff were ready to cut the huge portrait of William III from its frame with knives, if necessary. The sumptuous King’s Great Bedchamber, with a bed topped with ostrich plumes, and the King’s Closet (where His Majesty’s toilet has a velvet seat) should not be missed. Restored and recently reopened, the unique Chocolate Kitchens were built for William and Mary in about 1689.
William’s wife Mary II had her own apartments, accessible via the fabulous Queen’s Staircase (decorated by William Kent).
Georgian Private Apartments
The Georgian Rooms were used by George II and Queen Caroline on the court’s last visit to the palace in 1737. Do not miss the fabulous Tudor Wolsey Closet with its early 16th-century ceiling and painted panels, commissioned by Henry VIII.
Cartoon Gallery
The Cartoon Gallery used to display the original Raphael Cartoons (now in the V&A Museum); nowadays it’s just the late-17th-century copies.
Cumberland Art Gallery
The restored Cumberland Suite off Clock Court is the venue for a staggering collection of art works from the Royal Collection, including Rembrandt's Self-Portrait in a Flat Cap (1642) and Sir Anthony van Dyck's Charles I on Horseback (c 1635-6).
Gardens & Maze
Beyond the palace are the stunning gardens; keep an eye out for the Real Tennis Court, dating from the 1620s. Originally created for William and Mary, the Kitchen Garden is a magnificent re-creation.
No one should leave Hampton Court without losing themselves in the 800m-long maze (
GOOGLE MAP
; adult/child/family £4.20/2.60/12.30; 
h10am-5.15pm Apr-Oct, to 3.45pm Nov-Mar; 
fHampton Court Palace, 
dHampton Court), also accessible to those not entering the palace.
Don't Miss
AGreat Hall
AChapel Royal
AWilliam III & Mary II's Apartments
AGardens and maze
ACumberland Art Gallery
AHenry VIII's crown
Practicalities
Awww.hrp.org.uk/hamptoncourtpalace
Aadult/child/family £23/11.50/57
Ah10am-6pm Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar
AfHampton Court Palace, dHampton Court
To the Palace by Boat
Haunted Hampton Court
Shows & Events
TOP SIGHT
Kew Gardens
A staggering 24% of London is a green patchwork of domestic gardens, sprouting some 2.5 million trees. Throw in London’s abundant parkland, and you have one of the greenest cities on the planet. The 132-hectare gardens at Kew are the finest product of the British botanical imagination and really should not be missed. No worries if you don’t know your quiver tree from your alang-alang: a visit to Kew is a journey of discovery for all.
Botanical Collection
As well as being a public garden, Kew is a pre-eminent research centre, maintaining its reputation as the most exhaustive botanical collection in the world.
Palm House
Assuming you come by tube and enter via Victoria Gate, you’ll come almost immediately to the enormous and elaborate 700-glass-paned Palm House, a domed hothouse of metal and curved sheets of glass dating from 1848, enveloping a splendid display of exotic tropical greenery; an aerial walkway offers a parrot’s-eye view of the lush vegetation. The huge Jurassic cycad (Encephalartos altensteinii) here is the world's oldest pot plant. Just northwest of the Palm House stands the tiny and irresistibly steamy Waterlily House (
MAP
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; Kew Gardens, TW9; hMar-Dec), sheltering the gigantic Victoria cruziana waterlily, whose vast pads can support the weight of a small adult.
Princess of Wales Conservatory
The angular Princess of Wales Conservatory houses plants in 10 different climatic zones – everything from a desert to a mangrove swamp. Look out for stone plants, which resemble pebbles (to deter grazing animals), carnivorous plants, gigantic waterlilies, cacti and a collection of tropical orchids.
Temperate House
Built in 1860 and closed for vital restoration work until 2018, the beautiful Temperate House in the southeast of Kew Gardens (north of the pagoda) is the world’s largest surviving Victorian glasshouse, covering 4880 sq metres.
Arboretum
Covering two thirds of the gardens, the arboretum ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kew Gardens, TW9) refers to the more than 14,000 trees at Kew, which are often gathered together according to genera. You can find everything from eucalyptus trees to giant redwoods and Japanese pagoda trees.
Treetop Walkway
In the Arboretum, this fascinating walkway first takes you underground and then 18m up in the air into the tree canopy (a big hit with kids).
Kew Palace
Built in 1631 and the smallest of the royal palaces, adorable red-brick Kew Palace, in the northwest of the gardens, is a former royal residence once known as Dutch House. It was the favourite home of George III and his family; his wife, Queen Charlotte, died here in 1818 (you can see the very chair in which she expired). Don’t miss the recently restored Royal Kitchens next door.
Chinese Pagoda
Clad in scaffolding at the time of writing, Kew's 49.5m-tall eight-sided pagoda (1762), designed by William Chambers (who designed Somerset House), is one of the Kew Gardens' architectural icons. During WWII the pagoda withstood the blast from a stick of Luftwaffe bombs exploding nearby, and was also secretly employed by the Ministry of Defence to test bomb trajectories (which involved cutting holes in each floor). Current restorations – due to be completed in 2018 – will return its former full colours, along with the 80 dragons that once decorated the pagoda.
Other Highlights
Several long vistas (Cedar Vista, Syon Vista and Pagoda Vista) are channelled by trees from vantage points within Kew Gardens. The idyllic, thatched Queen Charlotte’s Cottage (
MAP
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; Kew Gardens, TW9; h11am-4pm Sat & Sun Apr-Sep) in the southwest of the gardens was popular with ‘mad’ George III and his wife; the beautiful carpets of bluebells around here are a draw in spring. Opened in 2016, the 320m-long Great Broad Walk Borders (
MAP
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; Kew Gardens, TW9) is the longest double herbaceous border in the UK. The Marianne North Gallery (
MAP
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; Kew Gardens, TW9) displays the botanical paintings of Marianne North, an indomitable traveller who roamed the continents from 1871 to 1885, painting plants along the way.
Don't Miss
APalm House
ATemperate House
ATreetop Walkway
AKew Palace
AChinese Pagoda
Practicalities
AKew Rd, TW9
Aadult/child £14/2.50
Ah10am-6.30pm Apr-Aug, closes earlier Sep-Mar
AfKew Pier, dKew Bridge, 
tKew Gardens
1Sights
Leafy Richmond, Kew & Hampton Court have some of London's most eye-catching sights. Visiting them affords the chance to get river-side and enjoy delightful visions of pastoral London.
Hampton Court Palace, Kew Gardens, the London Wetland Centre, the sights of Richmond and charms of Wimbledon rank among London's best offerings for visitors, botanists, historians, architecture enthusiasts, river fans, tennis buffs, those in flight from the pollution of central London or hikers in search of vast, green expanses.
1Richmond & Kew
Kew Gardens Top Sight
Richmond ParkPARK
(
MAP
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; 
%0300 061 2200; www.royalparks.org.uk/parks/richmond-park; h7am-dusk; tRichmond)
At almost 1000 hectares (the largest urban parkland in Europe), this park offers everything from formal gardens and ancient oaks to unsurpassed views of central London 12 miles away. It’s easy to flee the several roads slicing up the rambling wilderness, making the park perfect for a quiet walk or a picnic with the kids, even in summer when Richmond’s riverside heaves. Coming from Richmond, it’s easiest to enter via Richmond Gate or from Petersham Rd.
Herds of more than 600 red and fallow deer basking under the trees are part of its magic, but they can be less than docile in rutting season (September and October) and when the does bear young (May to July), so keep your distance (over 50m) during these times. Birdwatchers will love the diverse habitats, from neat gardens to woodland and assorted ponds. Floral fans should visit Isabella Plantation (
GOOGLE MAP
; %0300 061 2200; www.royalparks.org.uk; Richmond Park), a stunning 16-hectare woodland garden created after WWII, in April and May when the rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias bloom.
Set in a beautiful 13-hectare garden and affording great views of the city from the back terrace, Pembroke Lodge (
MAP
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; www.pembroke-lodge.co.uk; Richmond Park, TW10; h9am-5.30pm Apr-Oct, to just before dusk Nov-Mar) was the childhood home of Bertrand Russell. The Georgian tea rooms can garnish your visit with warm scones and clotted cream from 9am to 5.30pm.
The pastoral vista from Richmond Hill (
MAP
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; Richmond Hill; dRichmond, tRichmond) has inspired painters and poets for centuries and still beguiles. It’s the only view (which includes St Paul’s Cathedral 10 miles away) in the country to be protected by an act of Parliament.
Ham HouseHISTORIC BUILDING
(
MAP
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; %020-8940 1950; www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ham-house-and-garden; Ham St, Ham, TW10; whole property adult/child/family £10.80/5.40/27, garden adult/child/family £4/2/10.20; hhouse noon-4pm Sat-Thu late Mar–mid-Nov, by tour only Jan-Mar; gardens 11am-4pm Sat-Thu Jan–mid-Feb & Nov–mid-Dec, 11am-5pm Sat-Thu mid-Feb–Oct; 
g371, dRichmond, tRichmond)
Known as ‘Hampton Court in miniature’, much haunted redbrick Ham House was built in 1610 and became home to the first Earl of Dysart, unluckily employed as ‘whipping boy’ to Charles I. Inside it’s grandly furnished; the Great Staircase is a fine example of Stuart woodworking. Look out for ceiling paintings by Antonio Verrio, a miniature of Elizabeth I by Nicholas Hilliard and works by Constable and Reynolds. The grounds slope delightfully down to the Thames and lovely 17th-century formal gardens await exploration.
The garden ticket also allows you access to the below stairs rooms. For spooky thrills, nocturnal after-hours ghost tours (£22) delve into Ham House's paranormal dimensions. A cafe (10am to 5pm) is open for light refreshments. Just opposite the Thames and accessible by small ferry is Marble Hill Park and its splendid mansion.
Richmond GreenPARK
(
MAP
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; dRichmond, tRichmond)
A short walk west of the Quadrant (the road at the tube exit) is Richmond Green with its mansions and delightful pubs. In the Middle Ages, jousting tournaments were held here and today it's an absolute picture on a sunny day. Cross the green diagonally for the attractive remains of Richmond Palace (
MAP
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; tRichmond, tRichmond) – the main entrance and red-brick gatehouse – built in 1501. On the northeast side of the green, facing Richmond Theatre, is Little Green (a smaller green).
Richmond BridgeBRIDGE
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; dRichmond, tRichmond)
This five-span bridge, built in 1777, is London’s oldest surviving crossing and was only widened for traffic in 1937. According to the Richmond Bridge Act of 1772, vandalism of the bridge was punished with 'transportation to one of His Majesty's Colonies in America for the space of seven years'.
Petersham MeadowsPARK
(
MAP
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; dRichmond, tRichmond)
Once part of the Ham House estate, pastoral Petersham Meadows – where cows still graze - is a perfectly bucolic slice of rural England, especially if you don't have time to visit the English countryside proper.
OrangeryHISTORIC BUILDING
( GOOGLE MAP ; Kew Gardens, TW9)
Designed by Sir William Chambers, this elegant grade I listed plant house in Kew Gardens is home to a restaurant and cafe.
THAMES AT RICHMOND
The stretch of the river from Twickenham Bridge to Petersham and Ham is one of the prettiest in London. The action is mostly around five-span Richmond Bridge, built in 1777. Just before it, along one of the loveliest parts of the Thames, is tiny Corporation Island, colonised by flocks of feral parakeets. The gorgeous walk to Petersham can be crowded in nice weather; it's best to cut across pastoral Petersham Meadows and continue to Richmond Park for peace and quiet. There are several companies near Richmond Bridge, including Richmond Bridge Boathouses, that offer skiff hire.
Alternatively walk north from Twickenham Bridge, alongside the Old Deer Park, past the two obelisks and climb onto Richmond Lock (
MAP
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; dRichmond, St Margarets, tRichmond) and footbridge, dating from 1894.
1Putney & Barnes
Putney & BarnesAREA
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; dBarnes, dPutney)
Called Putelei in the Domesday Book of 1086, Putney is most famous as the starting point of the annual Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race (www.theboatrace.org; hlate Mar/early Apr). Barnes is less well known and more ‘villagey’ in feel. The best way to approach Putney is to follow the signs from Putney Bridge tube station for the footbridge (which runs parallel to the rail track), admiring the gorgeous riverside houses, with their gardens fronting the Thames, and thereby avoiding the tatty High St until the last minute.
TOP SIGHT
London Wetland Centre
One of Europe’s largest inland wetland projects, this 42-hectare centre was transformed from four Victorian reservoirs in 2000 and attracts some 140 species of bird, as well as frogs, butterflies, dragonflies and lizards, plus a thriving colony of watervoles.
From the visitor centre and glass-fronted observatory, meandering paths and boardwalks lead visitors around the grounds, penetrating the reedbed, marsh, fen and watery habitats. The many residents and transients here include black swans, ducks, Bewick's swans, geese, red-crested pochards, sand martins, coots and the rarer bitterns, herons and kingfishers. Don’t miss the Peacock Tower, a three-storey hide – and magnet for serious birders – on the main lake’s eastern edge; other hides are sprinkled around the reserve, including the Headley Discovery Hide in the west. The wetland is also well populated with eight different species of bats that feed on the abundant moths. A short walk north of the entrance, the wetland's family of sleek-coated otters are fed daily at 11am and 2pm (Monday to Friday). Free daily tours, which are led by knowledgeable and enthusiastic staff members, are highly recommended. They depart at 11.30am and 2.30pm. Binoculars can be hired from the shop. Check the website for details of events and courses, such as wildlife photography.
Don't Miss
APeacock Tower
AHeadley Discovery Hide
AOtter feeding
ADaily tours
Practicalities
A%020-8409 4400
AQueen Elizabeth's Walk, SW13
Aadult/child/family £12.75/7/35.55
Ah9.30am-5.30pm Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar
AdBarnes, tHammersmith
1Chiswick
Chiswick HouseHISTORIC BUILDING
(
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; %020-8995 0508; www.chgt.org.uk; Burlington Lane, Chiswick Park, W4; adult/child £6.70/4, gardens free; hgardens 7am-dusk, house 10am-6pm Sun-Wed Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct; 
W; dChiswick, tTurnham Green)
Designed by the third Earl of Burlington (1694–1753) – fired up with passion for all things Roman after his grand tour of Italy – this stunner of a neo-Palladian pavillion with an octagonal dome and colonnaded portico is a delight. The almost overpoweringly grand interior includes the coffered dome of the Upper Tribunal – left ungilded, the walls below are decorated with eight enormous paintings.
Admire the stunningly painted ceiling (by William Kent) of the Blue Velvet Room and look out for carvings of the pagan vegetative deity, the Green Man, in the marble fireplaces of the Green Velvet Room.
Lord Burlington also planned the house’s original gardens, now Chiswick Park, a huge 26-hectare expanse surrounding the house, but they have been much altered since his time and were fully restored in 2010. Children will love them – look out for the stone sphinxes near the Cedar of Lebanon trees (another sphinx made of lead can be found in the Lower Tribuna).
Home to a splendid 19th-century conservatory and a gateway designed by Inigo Jones, Chiswick House also has an excellent cafe. Download an audio tour from the website.
The house is about a mile southwest of the Turnham Green tube station and 750m northeast of Chiswick train station.
Hogarth’s HouseHISTORIC BUILDING
(
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; %020-8994 6757; www.hounslow.info/arts/hogarthshouse; Hogarth Lane, W4; hnoon-5pm Tue-Sun; tTurnham Green)
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Home between 1749 and 1764 to artist and social commentator William Hogarth, this small house displays his caricatures and engravings, with such works as the haunting Gin Lane (and the less well-known, more affirmative Beer Street), Marriage-à-la-mode and copies of A Rake’s Progress and The Four Stages of Cruelty.
The low ceiling of the narrow staircase is a head-bumping reminder that the Sergeant Painter to the King was under 5ft tall at full stretch. The house was bombed by the Luftwaffe in 1940, but the artist's mulberry tree survived and still flourishes in the garden (which would be a quiet retreat were it not for the roaring dual carriageway beyond the wall), accompanied by daffodils in spring. Prints and postcards are available from the downstairs shop. At the time of writing, the garden was being restored.
Russian Orthodox ChurchCHURCH
(Cathedral of the Dormition of the Mother of God and the Royal Martyrs;
GOOGLE MAP
; www.russianchurchlondon.org/en; 57 Harvard Rd, W4; dGunnersbury)
The star-speckled blue dome of this Russian Orthodox church, soaring above a quiet, residential street in Chiswick, is a slightly surreal reminder of the richness of London’s cultural tapestry. The Cathedral of the Dormition of the Mother of God and the Royal Martyrs, to give it its full name, opened in 1999 and has regular services, including one with English translations on Sundays.
THAMES PATH
The entire Thames Path National Trail is a 184-mile walk stretching from the river’s source at Thames Head, near Kemble in the Cotswolds, to the Thames Barrier. It’s truly magnificent, particularly in its upper reaches, but tackling the entire course is for the truly ambitious and will need a couple of weeks. Most visitors walk sections of it, such as the 16-mile chunk from Battersea to the barrier, which takes about 6½ hours. There is also a short, but lovely riverside walk from Putney to Barnes (4 miles), or the gorgeous stretch of river from Twickenham Bridge to Petersham and Ham (1.5 miles).
1Twickenham
Marble Hill HouseHISTORIC BUILDING
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MAP
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; %020-8892 5115; www.english-heritage.org.uk/daysout/properties/marble-hill-house; Richmond Rd, TW1; adult/child/family £7/4.20/18.20; hpark 7am-dusk, tours 10.30am & noon Sat, 10.30am, noon, 2.15pm & 3.30pm Sun Apr-Oct; W; dSt Margaret’s, Richmond, tRichmond)
An 18th-century Palladian peach conceived as an idyllic escape from the hurly-burly of city life, this majestic love nest was originally built for George II’s mistress Henrietta Howard and later occupied by Mrs Fitzherbert, the secret wife of George IV. The Georgian interior contains some astonishing flourishes, including the hand-painted Chinese wallpaper in the dining parlour and some delectable furniture. Entrance is only possible on one of the 90-minute guided tours, but you are free to visit the 26-hectare park.
The poet Alexander Pope had a hand in designing the park (containing an ice house and a grotto), which stretches leisurely down to the Thames. In 2017 archaeologists were beginning work on restoring the gardens that Henrietta Howard created in a project expected to last two years.
To get here from St Margaret’s station, turn right along St Margaret’s Rd, then take the right fork along Crown Rd and turn left along Richmond Rd. Turn right along Beaufort Rd and walk across Marble Hill Park to the house. It is also easily accessible by pedestrian ferry from Ham House. It’s a 25-minute walk from Richmond station.
Strawberry HillHISTORIC BUILDING
(
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; %020-8744 1241; www.strawberryhillhouse.org.uk; 268 Waldegrave Rd, TW1; adult/child £12.50/free; hhouse 11am-5pm Mon-Wed & Sun, garden 10am-5.30pm daily; dStrawberry Hill, tRichmond Station)
With its snow-white walls and Gothic turrets, this fantastical and totally restored 18th-century creation in Twickenham is the work of art historian, author and politician Horace Walpole. Studded with elaborate stained glass, the building reaches its astonishing apogee in the gallery, with its magnificent papier-mâché ceiling. For the full magic, join a twilight tour (£20). Last admission to the house is 4pm.
For homemade cakes, quiche and afternoon tea (from £5), pop into the Cloister Coffee House (open 10am to 6pm Saturday to Wednesday) and don't overlook exploring the garden. The house is a five- to 10-minute walk from Strawberry Hill train station; otherwise take bus R68 from Richmond tube station.
World Rugby MuseumMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %020-8892 8877; www.englandrugby.com; adult/child £8/6; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; dTwickenham, tHounslow East)
Shut for redevelopment at the time of writing (to reopen in early 2018), this museum at Twickenham Stadium (
GOOGLE MAP
; %020-8892 8877; www.englandrugby.com/twickenham/; Rugby Rd, Twickenham, TW1; tours adult/child/family £20/12/50; dTwickenham, tHounslow East) showcases old matches in the video theatre and boasts a collection of 10,000 items of rugby memorabilia. Guided tours of the stadium take place at various times every day (except Mondays and match days) and include entry to the museum; see the website for details on times and for news on the relaunch. From Hounslow East tube station take bus 281.
WORTH A DETOUR
SYON HOUSE
Just across the Thames from Kew Gardens and today owned by the Duke of Northumberland, Syon House (Syon Park;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %020-8560 0882; www.syonpark.co.uk; Brentford, TW7; adult/child £12.50/5.50, gardens only £7.50/4; hhouse 11am-5pm Wed, Thu & Sun mid-Mar–Oct, gardens & conservatory 10.30am-5pm daily mid-Mar–Oct; dGunnersbury, tGunnersbury) was once a medieval abbey named after Mt Zion. In 1542 Henry VIII dissolved the order of Bridgettine nuns who peacefully lived here and rebuilt it into a residence. In 1547, they say, God exacted his revenge on the king: when his lead coffin spent the night in Syon en route to Windsor for burial his bloated body exploded, bursting the coffin open and leaving the estate’s dogs to lick up the mess.
The house from where Lady Jane Grey ascended the throne for her nine-day reign in 1553 was remodelled in the neoclassical style by Robert Adam in the 18th century and has plenty of Adam furniture and oak panelling. The interior was designed on gender-specific lines, with pastel pinks and purples for the ladies’ gallery, and mock Roman sculptures for the men’s dining room. Guests at the house have included the great Mohawk chieftain Thayendanegea (Joseph Brant) and Gunpowder Plot conspirator Thomas Percy.
The estate’s 16-hectare gardens, with a lake and a magnificent domed Great Conservatory (1826) – the latter inspiring Joseph Paxton to design the Crystal Palace – were landscaped by Capability Brown. Syon Park is filled with attractions for children, including an adventure playground and an aquatic park. Children get free access during school holidays and bank holidays.
1Wimbledon
Wimbledon CommonPARK
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; %020-8788 7655; www.wpcc.org.uk; 
jWimbledon, dWimbledon, tWimbledon)
Surging on into Putney Heath, Wimbledon Common blankets a staggering 460 hectares of southwest London. An astonishing expanse of open, wild and wooded space for walking (the best mode of exploration), nature trailing and picnicking, the common has its own Wimbledon Windmill, dating from 1817. On the southern side of the common, the misnamed Caesar’s Camp (
GOOGLE MAP
; Wimbledon Common, SW19; tWimbledon) is what’s left of a roughly circular earthen fort built in the 5th century BC. Take bus 93 from Wimbledon tube, train or tram station.
Wimbledon Lawn Tennis MuseumMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %020-8946 6131; www.wimbledon.com/museum; Gate 4, Church Rd, SW19; adult/child £13/8, museum & tour £25/15; h10am-5.30pm, last admission 5pm; jWimbledon, dWimbledon, tWimbledon, tSouthfields)
This ace museum details the history of tennis – from its French precursor jeu de paume (which employed the open hand) to the supersonic serves of today's champions. It’s a state-of-the-art presentation, with plenty of video clips and a projection of John McEnroe in the dressing room at Wimbledon, but the highlight is the chance to see Centre Court from the 360-degree viewing box. During the championships in June/July, only those with tickets to the tournament can access the museum.
Riveting facts and figures abound: tennis clothes worn by female tennis players in 1881 weighed up to a gruelling 4.9kg! Compare this with Maria Sharapova’s skimpy 2004 Ladies Singles outfit, also on display. The museum houses a cafe and a shop selling all manner of tennis memorabilia. Audio guides are available. Regular 90-minute tours of Wimbledon that take in Centre Court, No 1 Court and other areas of the All England Club also include access to the museum (best to book ahead, online or over the telephone). From Southfields tube station take bus 493, or it's a 15-minute walk; alternatively, take the tube, train or tram to Wimbledon and then take bus 493.
Buddhapadipa TempleTEMPLE
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; %020-8946 1357; www.watbuddhapadipa.org; 14 Calonne Rd, SW19; h9.30am -5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun; jWimbledon, dWimbledon, tWimbledon)F
Surrounded by trees in over 1.5 hectares of tranquil Wimbledon land, this delightful Thai Buddhist temple actively welcomes everyone. Accompanying its reflective Buddhist repose, a community feel permeates the temple grounds, with visitors invited in for coffee and a chat. The wat (temple) boasts a bot (consecrated chapel) decorated with traditional scenes by two leading Thai artists (take your shoes off before entering). Take bus 93 from Wimbledon tube, train or tram station.
Wimbledon WindmillNOTABLE BUILDING
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; www.wimbledonwindmill.org.uk; Windmill Rd, SW19; adult/child £2/1; h2-5pm Sat, 11am-5pm Sun late Mar-Oct; 
p; tWimbledon)
One of London's few surviving windmills, Wimbledon Windmill is a fine smock mill (ie octagonal-shaped with sloping weatherboarded sides) dating from 1817. The windmill, which ceased operating in 1864, contains a museum with working models on the history of windmills and milling. The adjacent Windmill Tearooms can supply tea, caffeine and sustenance.
1Hampton Court
Hampton Court Palace Top Sight
5Eating
This neighbourhood excels in a variety of restaurants, cafes and pubs, from Michelin-starred meals to riverside gastropub lunches, gelaterias, tearooms for afternoon tea, or that classic English platter: fish and chips. Picturesque Richmond in particular is popular and diverse as a dining destination.
oOrange PekoeCAFE$
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; %020-8876 6070; www.orangepekoeteas.com; 3 White Hart Lane, SW13; cream tea £8.95; h7.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun; dBarnes Bridge)
This delightful Barnes tea shop is a consummate haven for lovers of the tea leaf. Surround yourself with all types of tea and present all your tricky leaf-related questions to the on-site tea sommelier. There's fine coffee, too, plus tasty breakfasts and cakes, ravishing all-day cream teas (scones with clotted cream, strawberry jam and a pot of tea) and the guilty pleasure of full-on traditional afternoon teas, presented in thoroughly English fashion. Reservations recommended.
oGelateria DanieliGELATO$
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; %020-8439 9807; www.gelateriadanieli.com; 16 Brewers Lane, TW9; ice cream from £2.25; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun, open later in summer; dRichmond, tRichmond)
Stuffed away down delightful narrow, pinched and flagstone-paved Brewer's Lane off Richmond Green, this tiny gelateria is a joy, and often busy. The handmade ice cream arrives in some two dozen lip-smacking flavours, from Christmas pudding through pistachio, walnut and tiramisu to pinenut and chocolate, scooped into small tubs or chocolate and hazelnut cones. There are milkshakes (£3.75) and coffee too.
Richmond Hill BakeryBAKERY$
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; 54 Friars Stile Rd; pastries from £1.50; h8am-6pm; W; dRichmond, tRichmond)
This canine-friendly and homely bakery and cafe occupies a popular and welcoming niche along the marvellously named Friars Stile Rd, supplying Richmond Park ramblers with fine coffee, teas, strawberry tarts, quiches, croissants and cakes. Suncatchers can aim for one of the tables out the front, or sit behind one of the bay windows. Order your coffee from the front till and collect from the rear.
Pier 1FISH & CHIPS$
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; %020-8332 2778; www.pier1fishandchipshop.co.uk; 11-13 Petersham Rd, TW10; mains from £8.95; h11.30am-11pm Mon-Sat, to 10.30pm Sun; W; dRichmond, tRichmond)
The ambience at this fish and chip restaurant is a stylish cut above the rest and the fish – fried or grilled – is delightfully succulent. The fish, served with chips, tartare sauce and a small dish of mushy peas, comes in at £12.95 and is prodigiously sized. The menu also nets a haul of non-fish dishes, from sirloins to roast chicken and vegetable lasagne.
The kids menu gets the nippers a small main, with chips, drink and ice cream for £7.45.
oGlasshouseMODERN EUROPEAN$$
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; %020-8940 6777; www.glasshouserestaurant.co.uk; 14 Station Pde, TW9; 2-/3-course lunch Mon-Fri £30/35, 2-3-course dinner £45/55; hnoon-2.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat, 12.30-3pm & 7-10pm Sun; W
c; dKew Gardens, tKew Gardens)
A day at Kew Gardens finds a perfect conclusion at this Michelin-starred gastronomic highlight. The glass-fronted exterior envelops a delicately lit, low-key interior, where the focus remains on divinely cooked food. Diners are rewarded with a consistently accomplished menu from chef Berwyn Davies that combines English mainstays with modern European innovation.
The splendid four-course tasting lunch menu is £45 (Monday to Friday); the five-course tasting dinner menu is £70 (Sunday to Thursday).
oChez LindsayFRENCH$$
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; %020-8948 7473; www.chez-lindsay.co.uk; 11 Hill Rise, TW10; mains £12.50-25, 2/3-course set lunch £12.75/15.75; hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun; W; dRichmond, tRichmond)
This appetising slice of Brittany at the bottom of Richmond Hill serves wholesome Breton cuisine with a side serving of comfortable ambience and river views. There's an accent on seafood, and house specialities include adorable galettes (buckwheat pancakes, from £3.95) with countless tasty fillings (or plain), washed down with a variety of hearty (and very dry) Breton ciders.
The set lunch is available from Monday to Friday.
Ma GoaINDIAN$$
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; %020-8780 1767; www.ma-goa.com; 242-244 Upper Richmond Rd, SW15; mains £3.95-16.50; h6-10pm Mon, 6.30-10.30pm Tue-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; W
v; dPutney, tPutney Bridge)
This much-loved family-run restaurant specialises in the subtle cuisine of Portugal’s former colony of Goa on India’s west coast. Winning dishes include the fantastic chini raan nihari (pot roasted lamb shank with spices) and the stir-fried Goa chorizo, while the fish dishes are excellent. Vegetarian options are also available.
Petersham Nurseries CafeMODERN EUROPEAN$$$
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; %020-8940 5230; www.petershamnurseries.com; Church Lane, off Petersham Rd, TW10; mains £16.50-36; hcafe noon-3pm Tue-Sun, teahouse 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun)
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In a greenhouse at the back of the fabulously located Petersham Nurseries is this award-winning cafe straight out of the pages of The Secret Garden. The confidently executed cuisine includes organic ingredients harvested from the nursery gardens and produce adhering to Slow Food principles. Seasonal plates range from fillets of John Dory with vermentino and asparagus and Cornish native lobster salad. Booking in advance is essential.
There’s also a teahouse for coffee, tea and cakes through the day and an Italian lunch menu. Because of local residents, and council concerns about traffic increasing with the cafe’s popularity, patrons are asked to walk here via the picturesque river towpath, or to use public transport.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Richmond may not be on everyone's alcohol radar, but it should be: some of the capital's best, most charming and historic riverside pubs can be found on either side of the Thames. Some of them are lapped by waters at high river tide, or even cut off!
oCity BargePUB
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; www.metropolitanpubcompany.com/our-pubs/the-city-barge; 27 Strand on the Green, W4; hnoon-11pm Mon-Thu, noon-midnight Fri, 10am-midnight Sat, 10am-10.30pm Sun; W; tGunnersbury)
In a line of small riverside cottages facing wooded Oliver's Island (where Cromwell is alleged to have taken refuge), this excellent pub looks straight onto the muddy Thames. Once known as the Navigators Arms, there has been a pub here since the Middle Ages, although the Luftwaffe gave it a dramatic facelift (as has an attractive refurb).
The pub itself claims a lineage dating from the 14th century, which would make it one of London's most ancient pubs. There are three open fires, drinkers spill outside in clement weather and a fine gastropub menu has taken hold. A scene from the Beatles’ film Help! was shot here, celebrated in framed photo stills. The hefty steel door clangs shut during high tides, which inundate the towpath.
oWhite CrossPUB
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; %020-8940 6844; www.thewhitecrossrichmond.com; Water Lane, TW9; h10am-11pm Mon-Sat, to 10.30pm Sun; W; tRichmond)
The riverside location and fine food and ales make this bay-windowed pub on the site of a former friary a winner. There are entrances for low and high tides, but when the river is at its highest, Cholmondeley Walk running along the Thames floods and the pub is out of bounds to those not willing to wade. Wellies are provided.
Very occasionally boats have to pick up stranded boozers: a chalkboard lists high-tide times and depths (you can also check the website). Originally called the Waterman's Arms, the pub dates from 1748 and was rebuilt in 1838. Quirky detail: there’s a tiny working fireplace under the window on your right as you enter.
Tap on the LinePUB
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; %020-8332 1162; www.tapontheline.co.uk; Station Approach, TW9; W; tKew Gardens)
Right by the platform at Kew Gardens tube station (the only London tube station platform with its very own pub), this lovingly restored old tiled Victorian yellow-brick boozer makes for a glorious conclusion to a summer's rambling around Kew. With outside seating in the courtyard at the front, it's also a fine haven for a pub lunch.There's live music on Sundays from 7pm.
White SwanPUB
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; %020-8744 2951; www.whiteswantwickenham.co.uk; Riverside, TW1; h11am-11pm Mon-Sat, to 10.30pm Sun & Mon; W; dTwickenham)
This traditional pub in Twickenham overlooks a quiet stretch of the Thames from what must be one of the most English-looking streets in London. It boasts a fantastic riverside location, a great selection of beer, a loyal crowd of locals and roaring fires in winter. Check the website tide chart to dine outside on the paved garden with Thames water lapping at your table.
Crooked BilletPUB
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; %020-8946 4942; www.thecrookedbilletwimbledon.com; 14-15 Crooked Billet, SW19; h11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; W; tWimbledon)
This historic Young’s boozer south of Cannizaro Park, just off Wimbledon Common, is brim-full of character, with flagstone floors, open fires and a cosy village-pub personality. Drinkers collapse on the green opposite in summer, while home-cooked food, award-winning ale and seasonal drinks welcome weary ramblers and Wimbledon wayfarers. The Hand in Hand pub next door is another snug option, packed at weekends.
White HartPUB
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; %020-8876 5177; www.whitehartbarnes.co.uk; the Terrace, SW13; h11am-11pm Mon-Thu, 11am-midnight Fri & Sat, noon-9pm Sun; W; dBarnes Bridge)
This riverside Young’s pub in Barnes was formerly a Masonic lodge. It's huge, traditional and welcoming downstairs, but the temptation in warmer months is to head to the balcony upstairs for Thames views, or to plonk yourself down at one of the riverside tables. When Boat Race day arrives, the pub is deluged with beer-toting spectators.
3Entertainment
Richmond TheatreTHEATRE
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; %0844 871 7651; www.atgtickets.com/venues/richmond-theatre/; Little Green, TW9; dRichmond, tRichmond)
A magnificent old Victorian building facing Little Green (next to Richmond Green), Richmond Theatre opened in 1899. Designed by architect Frank Matcham, the theatre stages a variety of popular plays, operas, ballets, musicals, live music performances and comedy.
PRACTICAL TIP
WIMBLEDON TICKETS
For a few weeks each June and July, the sporting world’s attention is fixed on the quiet southern suburb of Wimbledon, as it has been since 1877. Most show-court tickets for the Wimbledon Championships (
GOOGLE MAP
; %020-8944 1066; www.wimbledon.com; Church Rd, SW19; grounds admission £8-25, tickets £41-190) are allocated through public ballot, applications for which usually begin in early August of the preceding year and close at the end of December. Entry into the ballot does not mean entrants will get a ticket. A quantity of show court, outer court, ground tickets and late-entry tickets are also available if you queue on the day of play, but if you want a show-court ticket it is recommended you arrive early the day before and camp in the queue. See www.wimbledon.com for details.
7Shopping
This is sightseeing rather than shopping territory, but Richmond has a good selection of retail choices for window-shoppers, browsers and shopaholics.
Richmond High St is full of chains, but there are some independent stores around. In an enclave of cobbled streets you’ll find jewellery shops such as Toko (
MAP
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; %020-8332 6620; www.tokojewellery.co.uk; 18 Brewers Lane, TW9; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun; tRichmond), tucked away down Brewers Lane en route to, or away from, Richmond Green.
Teddington CheeseCHEESE
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; %020-8977 6868; www.teddingtoncheese.co.uk; 74 Hill Rise, TW10; h10am-6pm Wed-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun; dRichmond, tRichmond)
As you come down – or head up – Richmond Hill, stop by this cheesemongers that packs a veritable smorgasbord of cheesy delights into a small space. Over 130 different English and international varieties contribute to the aroma and the helpful owner can point you in the right direction, whether it's Garrotxa from Catalonia, Vacherin Frigbourgeois from Switzerland or Capria from Worcester.
The Open BookBOOKS
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; %020-8940 1802; 10 King St, TW9; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm; dRichmond, tRichmond)
Helena Richardson's charming bookshop – fighting off a leviathan Waterstones around the corner – is a mainstay of Richmond reading life. With a terrific range compressed into a small space, this is excellent, unhurried browsing territory and full of surprises; but if you're after something specific, Helena knows her stock inside out.
2Sports & Activities
Kew ExplorerBUS
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; %020-8332 5648; www.kew.org/kew-gardens/whats-on/kew-explorer-land-train; adult/child £5/2)
For a good overview of the gardens, jump aboard this train that allows you to hop on and off at stops along the way, on a 40-minute itinerary. There are seven stops in all along a route that runs in a long loop from the main Victoria Gate, returning to its departure point. The Explorer is also available for private hire.
Richmond Bridge Boat HireBOATING
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; %020-8948 8270; www.richmondboathire.co.uk; Richmond Bridge; adult/child £8/4; dRichmond, tRichmond)
Rents out a variety of rowing boats, including big 12-seaters, for journeys along the Thames. Day rates are £16 for an adult and £6 for a child.