Windsor Castle
The world’s largest and oldest continuously occupied fortress, this redoubtable mass of battlements and towers dominates the Berkshire town of Windsor, 25 miles west of London. British monarchs have holed up at Windsor Castle for more than 900 years and it’s the Queen’s favourite of her several official residences.
History
An earth-and-timber fortress was erected here around 1080 by William the Conqueror, and was rebuilt in stone by his great-grandson, Henry II, in 1170. Edward III added a Gothic palace, while Charles II gave the State Apartments a baroque makeover, creating an ‘English Versailles’. George IV swept in with his team of artisans, largely creating today’s palace within the castle. As a result of all this rebuilding, the 951-room castle displays a lively range of architectural styles, from half-timbered fired brick to Gothic stonework.
State Apartments
The castle area, covering more than 10 hectares, is divided into three wards. In the Upper Ward, the State Apartments reverberate with style and history. The crossed swords, suits of armour and banners of the Grand Staircase set the tone for the two dozen or so rooms open to the public.
The Grand Vestibule, presided over by a marble statue of Queen Victoria, displays gifts and spoils from the British Empire, including a life-sized tiger’s head of gold with crystal teeth from the throne of Tipu, sultan of Mysore. Here you’ll also encounter the musket ball that killed Lord Nelson. The Waterloo Chamber, commemorating the battle of that name, is filled with portraits of the great and the good by Sir Thomas Lawrence.
From here you move to the King’s Rooms and Queen’s Rooms. These 10 chambers are lessons in how the other half lives; they're filled with opulent furniture, tapestries, frescoed ceilings, carved wall panels, and paintings by Hans Holbein, Bruegel, Rembrandt, Peter Paul Rubens, Van Dyck and Gainsborough.
The Queen’s Guard Chamber, bristling with pistols and swords, gives way to the fabulous St George’s Hall, the venue of state banquets. On the ceiling the shields of the Knights of the Garter (originally from George IV’s time here) were re-created after a devastating fire in 1992. The blank shields record ‘degraded’ knights who were expelled from the order for various reasons. Next door is the Lantern Lobby, a former chapel, where the fire began. End your tour in the Garter Throne Room.
Queen Mary's Dolls' House
This astonishing creation off the North Terrace of the Upper Ward is not a toy but a work of artful miniaturisation, designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens for Queen Mary and completed in 1924. At 1:12 scale, an exquisite attention to detail holds sway – it has running water, flushing toilets, electric lights, tiny Crown Jewels, a silver service, vintage wine in the cellar and a fleet of six cars in the garage.
St George's Chapel
Moving westward through the Middle Ward and past the distinctive Round Tower, rebuilt in stone from the original Norman keep in 1170, you enter the Lower Ward. This royal chapel, begun by Edward IV in 1475 but not completed until 1528, has a superb nave fashioned in the uniquely English style of Perpendicular Gothic, with gorgeous fan vaulting and massive ‘gridiron’ stained-glass windows. Serving as a royal mausoleum, the chapel contains the tombs of 10 monarchs, including Henry VI, Edward IV, Henry VIII, Charles I, George VI and the late Queen Mother. Note the magnificent Quire, hung with Knights of the Garter banners above the beautifully carved 15th-century wooden stalls. Time your visit well and you can attend choral evensong at 5.15pm daily throughout most of the year. The chapel is closed Sundays.
Albert Memorial Chapel
Originally built by Henry III in 1240 and dedicated to Edward the Confessor, this small and highly decorated chapel abutting St George's Chapel was the place of worship for the Order of the Garter until St George’s Chapel snatched away that honour. After the death of Prince Albert at Windsor Castle in 1861, Queen Victoria ordered the chapel's elaborate redecoration as a tribute to her husband. A major feature of the restoration is the magnificent vaulted roof – the gold mosaic pieces were crafted in Venice.
Windsor Great Park
South of the castle, Windsor Great Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; %01753-860222; www.windsorgreatpark.co.uk; Windsor; hdawn-dusk) ranges over a staggering area of 7.7 sq miles. The Long Walk is a roughly 3-mile jaunt along a tree-lined path from King George IV Gate to the Copper Horse statue (of George III) on Snow Hill, the park’s highest point. The Savill Garden ( GOOGLE MAP ; %01753-860222; www.windsorgreatpark.co.uk; Wick Lane, Englefield Green; adult/child £10.50/free; h10am-6pm Mar-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Feb; p) is particularly lovely, and located just over 4 miles south of Windsor Castle. By car, take the A308 out of town and follow the brown signs.
Changing of the Guard
A must for any visitor, the changing of the guard is a fabulous spectacle of pomp and ceremony that takes place in the Lower Ward or, when the Queen is in official residence, the Quadrangle in the Upper Ward. It usually happens at 11am on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays, weather permitting.
ETON COLLEGE
Eton CollegeNOTABLE BUILDING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %01753-370100; www.etoncollege.com; High St, Eton; adult/child £10/free; htours Fri 2pm & 4pm May-Aug)
Eton College is the largest and most famous public (meaning private and fee-paying) boys' school in England, and arguably the most enduring symbol of England's class system. High-profile alumni include 19 British prime ministers, countless princes, kings and maharajas, famous explorers, authors, actors and economists – among them Princes William and Harry, George Orwell, Ian Fleming, John Maynard Keynes, Bear Grylls and Eddie Redmayne.
Eton was founded by Henry VI in 1440 with a view towards educating 70 highly qualified boys awarded a scholarship from a fund endowed by the king. Every year since then, 70 King's Scholars have been chosen, based on the results of a highly competitive exam; these pupils are housed in separate quarters from the 1300 or so other students. All pupils are boarders and must wear formal tailcoats, waistcoats and white collars to lessons (top hats went out in 1948).
Guided tours take in various buildings including the chapel and the Museum of Eton Life. Online booking is recommended.
Explore
One of the world’s most famous university cities, Oxford is a beautiful, privileged place. It is steeped in history and studded with august buildings, yet maintains the feel of a young city, thanks to its large student population. The elegant honey-toned buildings of the university’s colleges, scattered throughout the city, wrap around tranquil courtyards along narrow cobbled lanes, and, inside their grounds, a studious calm reigns. The city’s famed spires twirl into the sky above.
Oxford is a wonderful place to wander: the oldest colleges date back to the 13th century, and little has changed inside the hallowed walls since. But along with the rich history, tradition and energetic academic life, there is a busy, lively world beyond the college walls, and the city’s nonuniversity majority far outnumber the academic elite. Just as in Cambridge, the existence of ‘town’ beside ‘gown’ makes Oxford more than simply a bookish place of learning.
Getting There & Away
Bus
Oxford’s bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Gloucester Green) is in the centre, near the corner of Worcester and George Sts. The main bus companies are Oxford Bus Company (%01865-785400; www.oxfordbus.co.uk), Stagecoach (%01865-772250; www.stagecoachbus.com) and Swanbrook (%01452-712386; www.swanbrook.co.uk).
Destinations:
Burford (route 853; £3.80, 45 minutes)
Cambridge (X5; £13.50, 3¾ hours)
Cheltenham (route 853; £8, 1½ hours)
Chipping Norton (S3; £4.70, one hour)
London Victoria (Oxford Tube/X90; £15, 1¾ hours)
Woodstock (S3; £3.70, 30 minutes)
National Express (%0871-7818181; www.nationalexpress.com) coach destinations:
Bath (£8.20, two hours)
Birmingham (£13.50, 2½ hours)
Bristol (£10, three hours)
London Victoria (£16, two hours)
Oxford Bus Company runs ‘The Airline’ service to/from Heathrow (£23, 1½ hours) and Gatwick (£28, 2-2½ hours) airports.
Train
Oxford’s main train station (Botley Rd) is conveniently placed on the western side of the city centre. Destinations include the following:
Birmingham (£18, 1¼ hours)
London Paddington (£25, 1¼ hours)
Manchester (£50, three hours)
Moreton-in-Marsh (£9.90, 35 minutes)
Newcastle (£111, 4½ hours)
Winchester (£17, 1¼ hours)
Oxford Parkway station (Banbury Rd), 4 miles north of the centre, has trains to London Marylebone (£25, one hour). It’s convenient if you’re staying in Summertown and has bus links to central Oxford.
Need to Know
oChrist ChurchCOLLEGE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-276492; www.chch.ox.ac.uk; St Aldate’s; adult/child £9/8; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 2-5pm Sun)
The largest of all of Oxford’s colleges, with 650 students, and the one with the grandest quad, Christ Church is also most popular with visitors. Its magnificent buildings, illustrious history and latter-day fame as a location for the Harry Potter films bring tourists in droves. The college was founded in 1524 by Cardinal Thomas Wolsey, who suppressed the 9th-century monastery existing on the site to acquire the funds for his lavish building project.
Over the years, numerous luminaries have been educated at Christ Church, including Albert Einstein, philosopher John Locke, poet WH Auden, Charles Dodgson (Lewis Carroll; who immortalised the then-dean’s daughter in his Alice in Wonderland tales), and no fewer than 13 British prime ministers. The main entrance is below the imposing 17th-century Tom Tower, the upper part of which was designed by former student Sir Christopher Wren. Great Tom, the 6-tonne tower bell, still chimes 101 times each evening at 9.05pm (Oxford is five minutes west of Greenwich) to sound the curfew imposed on the original 100 students, plus one added in 1663.
Visitors must head further south down St Aldate’s to the visitors’ entrance (where there may be queues). From here, you go up to the Great Hall, the college’s spectacular dining room, with its hammer-beam roof and imposing portraits of past scholars. It was replicated in film studios as the Hogwarts dining hall for the Harry Potter films. The hall often closes between noon and 2pm.
Coming down the grand fan-vaulted staircase (where Professor McGonagall welcomed Harry in Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone), you’ll enter Tom Quad, Oxford’s largest and arguably most impressive quadrangle, with a statue of Mercury in its pond.
From the quad, you access 12th-century Christ Church Cathedral ( GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-276150; www.chch.ox.ac.uk/cathedral; St Aldate’s; h10am-4.15pm Mon-Sat, 2-4.15pm Sun). It was originally the abbey church and then the college chapel, but was declared a cathedral by Henry VIII when he broke from the Catholic Church, suppressed more monasteries and convents, and gave the college its current name in 1546. It was formerly known as Cardinal’s College.
Inside, brawny Norman columns are topped by elegant vaulting, and beautiful stained-glass windows illuminate the walls. Keep an eye out for the 13th-century reliquary of St Frideswide, Oxford’s patron saint, whose Anglo-Saxon shrine was a focus of pilgrimage prior to the college being built. Other notable features include the stained-glass depiction of the murder of Thomas Becket, dating from 1320, above the side altar on the right. As this is a working Anglican cathedral, there’s no charge to visit it for private prayer or to attend a service – talk to the porters at the main gate. Evensong is held at 6pm most days.
Finally, you’ll pass through the 15th-century cloister, a relic of the ancient Priory of St Frideswide.
To the south of the college is Christ Church Meadow, a leafy expanse bordered by the Rivers Cherwell and Isis, ideal for leisurely walking.
oBodleian LibraryLIBRARY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-277162; www.bodleian.ox.ac.uk/bodley; Catte St; tours £6-14; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun)
Oxford's Bodleian Library is one of the oldest public libraries in the world and quite possibly the most impressive one you'll ever see. Visitors are welcome to wander around the central quad and the foyer exhibition space. For £1 you can visit the Divinity School, but the rest of the complex is only accessible on guided tours. Check timings online or at the information desk. Advance tickets are available for extended tours only; others must be purchased on the day.
The Bodleian has its roots in a 15th-century collection of books, and its present state is largely due to the efforts of Sir Thomas Bodley, a 16th-century fellow of Merton College. He founded the library in 1602 and, in 1610, came to the agreement with the Stationers' Company of London that it would receive a copy of every single book published in the UK – an agreement that still stands today. The library started off with 20 books; it currently holds more than 12 million items, contains 117 miles of shelving and has seating space for up to 2500 readers. A staggering 5000 books and articles arrive every Wednesday, all of which need to be catalogued and stored.
The oldest part of the library surrounds the Jacobean Gothic Old Schools Quadrangle, which dates from the early 17th century and sports some of Oxford's odder architectural gems. On the eastern side of the quad is the Tower of Five Orders, an ornate building depicting the five classical orders of architecture. On the western side is the exquisite Divinity School, the university's first teaching room. Completed in 1488, it is renowned as a masterpiece of 15th-century English Gothic architecture and has a superb fan-vaulted ceiling sporting the initials of its many benefactors. It featured as the Hogwarts hospital wing in the Harry Potter films.
Half-hour mini tours (£6) include the Divinity School and the medieval Duke Humfrey’s library, where no fewer than five kings, 40 Nobel Prize winners, 26 British prime ministers, and writers such as Oscar Wilde, CS Lewis and JRR Tolkien studied amid rows filled with grand ancient tomes chained to the shelves. It also featured in the Harry Potter films as the Hogwarts library. Those wishing to read here (books may not be borrowed) to this day must swear Bodley’s Oath, which involves vowing not to bring fire or flames into the library.
Hour-long standard tours (£8) also visit the 17th-century oak-panelled Convocation House, where parliament was held during the Civil War, and the Chancellor’s Court, in which Oscar Wilde and Romantic poet Percy Bysshe Shelley were tried (for debt and promoting atheism, respectively). Extended 1½-hour tours (£14; 9.15am Wednesday and Saturday) include the Radcliffe Camera, the Upper Reading Room and the underground Gladstone Link. Alternatively, pick up a 40-minute audio guide (£2.50).
Some of the library's collections are now housed in the newly renovated Weston Library (Broad St), which opened to visitors in 2015.
oPitt Rivers MuseumMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-270927; www.prm.ox.ac.uk; South Parks Rd; hnoon-4.30pm Mon, 10am-4.30pm Tue-Sun)F
Hidden away through a door at the back of the Oxford University Museum of Natural History ( GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-272950; www.oum.ox.ac.uk; Parks Rd; h10am-5pm; Wc), this wonderfully creepy anthropological museum houses a treasure trove of half a million objects from around the world – more than enough to satisfy any armchair adventurer. One of the reasons it’s so brilliant is the fact there are no computers, interactive displays or shiny modern gimmicks. Dim lighting lends an air of mystery to the glass cases stuffed with prized booty of Victorian explorers.
Objects are mostly divided into themes, rather than cultures, with subjects such as ‘Smoking’, ‘Weapons’, ‘Body Art’ or ‘Treatment of Dead Enemies’ (a particularly gruesome ensemble). Among the feathered cloaks, silver toe rings, teeth necklaces, Indonesian carvings, blowpipes, shields, magic charms, Noh masks, totem poles, musical instruments, global textiles and shrunken heads, you may spot ceremonial headgear from Uganda worn during circumcision ceremonies, ancient dental implements and a suspended East African boat.
oAshmolean MuseumMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-278000; www.ashmolean.org; Beaumont St; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)F
Britain's oldest public museum, second in repute only to London's British Museum, was established in 1683 when Elias Ashmole presented Oxford University with a collection of curiosities amassed by the well-travelled John Tradescant, gardener to Charles I. Today the museum's four floors feature interactive displays, a giant atrium, glass walls with views into galleries on different levels and a beautifully sited rooftop restaurant. Collections span the world in bright, spacious galleries in one of Britain's best examples of neoclassical architecture.
Historical treasures include Egyptian mummies, Islamic art, Indian textiles, ancient documents, rare porcelain, tapestries, silverware, priceless musical instruments, extensive displays of European art and, famously, the Anglo-Saxon Alfred Jewel.
Magdalen CollegeCOLLEGE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-276000; www.magd.ox.ac.uk; High St; adult/child £6/5; h1pm-dusk Oct-Jun, 10am-7pm Jul & Aug, noon-7pm Sep)
Set amid 40 hectares of private lawns, woodlands, river walks and deer park, Magdalen (mawd-lin), founded in 1458, is one of the wealthiest and most beautiful of Oxford’s colleges. It has a reputation as an artistic college. Some of its notable students have included writers Julian Barnes, Alan Hollinghurst, CS Lewis, John Betjeman, Seamus Heaney and Oscar Wilde, not to mention Edward VIII, TE Lawrence ‘of Arabia’, Dudley Moore and Cardinal Thomas Wolsey.
Beyond the elegant Victorian gateway, you’ll find the medieval chapel and its glorious 15th-century tower. From here move on to the remarkable, restored 15th-century cloisters, some of Oxford’s finest, with strange animals perched on the buttresses. The fantastic gargoyles and grotesques along the frontage here are thought to have inspired CS Lewis’ stone statues in The Chronicles of Narnia. Behind the cloisters, lovely Addison's Walk leads through the grounds and along the banks of the River Cherwell for just under a mile. In the mid-1870s you might have encountered Oscar Wilde taking his pet lobster for a stroll.
The college also has a fine choir that sings Hymnus Eucharisticus at 6am on May Day (1 May) from the top of the 44m bell tower.
Radcliffe CameraLIBRARY
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.bodleian.ox.ac.uk; Radcliffe Sq)
The sandy-gold Radcliffe Camera is the quintessential Oxford landmark and undoubtedly one of the city’s most photographed buildings. This beautiful, light-filled circular, columned library and reading room that focuses on the humanities was built between 1737 and 1749 in grand Palladian style, and has Britain’s third-largest dome. The only way to see the interior is to join an extended 1½-hour tour (£14) of the Bodleian Library.
Balliol CollegeCOLLEGE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-277777; www.balliol.ox.ac.uk; Broad St; adult/child £2/1; h10am-dusk)
Established in 1263, Balliol College is thought to be the oldest college in Oxford. The huge Gothic wooden doors between the inner and outer quadrangles bear scorch marks from when three Protestant clerics were burned at the stake here in the mid-16th century. Notable alumni include politician Boris Johnson and three former British prime ministers.
Museum of the History of ScienceMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-277280; www.mhs.ox.ac.uk; Broad St; hnoon-5pm Tue-Sun)F
Science, art, celebrity and nostalgia come together at this fascinating museum, where exhibits include everything from an extensive selection of astrolabes and an equation-covered blackboard used by Einstein in 1931, to the world's finest collection of historical scientific instruments. It's all housed in a lovely 17th-century building.
Sheldonian TheatreTHEATRE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-277299; www.admin.ox.ac.uk/sheldonian; Broad St; adult/child £3.50/2.50; h10am-4.30pm Mon-Sat Feb-Oct, to 3pm Nov-Jan)
Begun in 1663, this monumental building was the first major work of Sir Christopher Wren, then a professor of astronomy. Inspired by the classical Theatre of Marcellus in Rome, it has a rectangular front end, a semicircular back, and railings decorated with classical busts. The ceiling in the main hall is blanketed by a fine 17th-century painting of the triumph of truth over ignorance; the ceiling’s remarkable length was made possible by ingenious braces made of shorter timbers.
The Sheldonian is now used for college ceremonies and public concerts, but you can climb to the cupola for good views of the surrounding buildings. Guided tours (adult/child £8/6) are provided on certain days throughout the year. Contact the theatre for details.
Bridge of SighsBRIDGE
(Hertford Bridge; GOOGLE MAP ; New College Lane)
As you stroll along New College Lane, look up at the steeped Bridge of Sighs linking the two halves of Hertford College. Completed in 1914, it's sometimes erroneously referred to as a copy of the famous bridge in Venice, but it bears a much closer resemblance to that city's Rialto Bridge.
oVaults & GardenCAFE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-279112; www.thevaultsandgarden.com; University Church of St Mary the Virgin, Radcliffe Sq; mains £7-10; h8.30am-6pm; Wv)
Hidden in the vaulted 14th-century Old Congregation House of the University Church, this buzzy local favourite serves a wholesome seasonal selection of soups, salads, pastas, curries, sandwiches and cakes, including plenty of vegetarian and gluten-free options. It’s one of Oxford’s most beautiful lunch venues, with additional tables in a pretty garden overlooking Radcliffe Sq. Arrive early to grab a seat.
oEdamaméJAPANESE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-246916; www.edamame.co.uk; 15 Holywell St; mains £6-9.50; h11.30am-2.30pm Wed, 11.30am-2.30pm & 5-8.30pm Thu-Sat, noon-3.30pm Sun; v)
The queue out the door speaks volumes about this tiny, deliciously authentic place. All light wood, dainty trays and friendly bustle, this is Oxford’s top spot for gracefully simple, flavour-packed Japanese cuisine. Dishes include fragrant chicken miso ramen, tofu stir-fry and, on Thursday nights, sushi. No bookings; arrive early and be prepared to wait. Cash only at lunch.
Handle Bar Cafe & KitchenCAFE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; Bike Zone, 28-32 St Michael’s Street; dishes £5-7; h8am-10pm Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm Sun; Wv)
Hot on Oxford’s simmering coffee-culture scene, this bubbly bike-themed cafe gets packed with students, professionals and a few lucky tourists. They’re here for luscious, health-focused bites, such as spiced avocado-and-feta toast, kale-wrapped halloumi and fresh-fruit smoothie ‘pots’, plus tasty cakes, teas and coffees. A raised penny-farthing serves as centrepiece and bikes dangle from the ceiling.
Missing BeanCAFE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-794886; www.themissingbean.co.uk; 14 Turl St; dishes £2-6; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6.30pm Sat, 10am-5.30pm Sun; W)
Inspired by Australia’s independent cafe scene, the Missing Bean serves up Oxford’s finest coffee, fuelled by its East Oxford roastery – which has its own branch ( GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-794886; www.themissingbean.co.uk; 1 Newtec Pl, Magdalen Rd; h7am-2pm Wed-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat). There are loose-leaf teas and smoothies for those less caffeine inclined. Fresh muffins, flapjacks, cakes and ciabattas with all kind of fillings make this a brilliant lunchtime stop.
QuodMODERN BRITISH$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-202505; www.quod.co.uk; Old Bank Hotel, 91-94 High St; mains £11-20; h7am-11pm; Wvc)
Popular for its smart, contemporary decor, lively atmosphere and supercentral location, Quod dishes up modern brasserie-style food to the Oxford masses. The two-course weekday set lunch (£12.95) is good value. If you’re caught between meals, go for varied international offerings on the all-day menu or, from 3pm to 5.30pm, afternoon tea (£8 to £26).
Lamb & FlagPUB
( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr St Giles & Lamb & Flag Passage; hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat, to 10.30pm Sun)
Born as a 17th-century tavern, this relaxed wood-walled hideaway is still a good bet for a sturdy pint or glass of wine. It’s said that Thomas Hardy wrote part of his novel Jude the Obscure within its walls, while authors CS Lewis and JRR Tolkien were once regulars. Pint purchases help fund PhD scholarships at St John’s College (which manages the pub).
Turf TavernPUB
( GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-243235; www.turftavern-oxford.co.uk; 4-5 Bath Pl; h11am-11pm; W)
Squeezed down a narrow alleyway, this tiny medieval pub (dating from at least 1381) is one of Oxford’s best loved. It’s where US president Bill Clinton famously ‘did not inhale’; other patrons have included Oscar Wilde, Stephen Hawking and Margaret Thatcher. Home to 11 real ales, it’s always crammed with students, professionals and the odd tourist. Plenty of outdoor seating.
Explore
Abounding with exquisite architecture, exuding history and tradition and renowned for its quirky rituals, Cambridge is a university town extraordinaire. The tightly packed core of ancient colleges, the picturesque riverside 'Backs' (college gardens) and the leafy green meadows surrounding the city give it a more tranquil appeal than its historic rival Oxford.
Like 'the Other Place', as Oxford is known locally, the buildings here seem unchanged for centuries, and it's possible to wander the college buildings and experience them as countless prime ministers, poets, writers and scientists have done. Sheer academic achievement seems to permeate the very walls: cyclists loaded down with books negotiate cobbled passageways, students relax on manicured lawns and great minds debate life-changing research in historic pubs. First-time punters zigzag erratically across the river and those long past their student days wonder what it would have been like to study in such splendid surroundings.
Getting There & Away
Public transport links to Cambridge are excellent, with frequent connections to London and the rest of the east of England.
Bus
Buses run by National Express ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0871 781 8181; www.nationalexpress.com; Parkside) leave from Parkside. Direct services:
Gatwick £37, 3¾ hours, nine daily
Heathrow £25, 2¾ hours, hourly
London Victoria £5, 2½ hours, two-hourly
Oxford £12, 3½ hours, every 30 minutes
Stansted £10, 45 minutes, two-hourly
Train
The train station is 1.5 miles southeast of the centre. Direct services:
Birmingham New Street £55, three hours, hourly
Bury St Edmunds £10, 40 minutes, hourly
Ely £5,15 minutes, three per hour
King's Lynn £10, 50 minutes, hourly
London King's Cross £23, one hour, two to four per hour
Stansted Airport £10, 35 minutes, hourly
Need to Know
oKing's College ChapelCHURCH
( GOOGLE MAP ; %01223-331212; www.kings.cam.ac.uk; King's Pde; adult/child £9/free; h9.30am-3.30pm Mon-Sat & 1.15-2.30pm Sun term time, 9.30am-4.30pm daily university holidays)
In a city crammed with showstopping buildings, this is a scene-stealer. Grandiose 16th-century King's College Chapel is one of England’s most extraordinary examples of Gothic architecture. Its inspirational, intricate 80m-long fan-vaulted ceiling is the world’s largest and soars upwards before exploding into a series of stone fireworks. This hugely atmospheric space is a fitting stage for the chapel's world-famous choir; hear it sing during the free and magnificent evensong during term time (5.30pm Monday to Saturday, 10.30am and 3.30pm Sunday).
oTrinity CollegeCOLLEGE
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.trin.cam.ac.uk; Trinity St; adult/child £3/1; h10am-3.30pm Nov-Mar, to 5pm Jul-Oct)
The largest of Cambridge's colleges, Trinity offers an extraordinary Tudor gateway, an air of supreme elegance and a sweeping Great Court – the largest of its kind in the world. It also boasts the renowned and suitably musty Wren Library ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.trin.cam.ac.uk; hnoon-2pm Mon-Fri year-round, plus 10.30am-12.30pm Sat term time), containing 55,000 books dated before 1820 and more than 2500 manuscripts. Works include those by Shakespeare, St Jerome, Newton and Swift – and AA Milne's original Winnie the Pooh; both Milne and his son, Christopher Robin, were graduates.
As you enter Trinity through the part-gilded gate, have a look at the statue of the college's founder, Henry VIII, that adorns it. His left hand holds a golden orb, while his right grips not the original sceptre but a table leg, put there by student pranksters and never replaced. It's a wonderful introduction to one of Cambridge's most venerable colleges, and a reminder of who really rules the roost.
In the Great Court beyond, scholastic humour gives way to wonderment, thanks to its imposing architecture and sheer size. To the right of the entrance is a small tree, planted in the 1950s and reputed to be a descendant of the apple tree made famous by Trinity alumnus Sir Isaac Newton. Other alumni include Francis Bacon, Lord Byron, Tennyson, HRH Prince Charles (legend has it his bodyguard scored higher in exams than he did), at least nine prime ministers (British and international) and more than 30 Nobel Prize winners.
The college's vast hall has a dramatic hammer-beam roof and lantern; beyond lie the dignified cloisters of Nevile's Court. Henry VIII would have been proud to note, too, that his college would eventually come to throw the best party in town, the lavish May Ball (hearly Jun) in early June, though you will need a fat purse, and a friend on the inside, to get an invitation.
oFitzwilliam MuseumMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.fitzmuseum.cam.ac.uk; Trumpington St; by donation; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, noon-5pm Sun)F
Fondly dubbed 'the Fitz' by locals, this colossal neoclassical pile was one of the first public art museums in Britain, built to house the fabulous treasures that the seventh Viscount Fitzwilliam bequeathed to his old university. Expect Roman and Egyptian grave goods, artworks by many of the great masters and some quirkier collections: banknotes, literary autographs, watches and armour.
The building’s unabashedly over-the-top appearance sets out to mirror its contents; this ostentatious jumble of styles mixes mosaic with marble, and Greek with Egyptian. The lower galleries are filled with priceless treasures spanning the ancient world; look out for a Roman funerary couch, an inscribed copper votive plaque from Yemen (c AD 100–200), a figurine of Egyptian cat goddess Bastet, splendid Egyptian sarcophagi and mummified animals, plus dazzling illuminated manuscripts. The upper galleries showcase works by Leonardo da Vinci, Titian, Rubens, the Impressionists, Gainsborough, Constable, Rembrandt and Picasso; standout works include the tender Pietà by Giovanni del Ponte and Salvator Rosa's dark and intensely personal L'Umana Fragilita.
The Fitz has a tragic footnote: although begun by George Basevi in 1837, he didn’t live to see its completion. While working on Ely Cathedral he stepped back to admire his handiwork, slipped and fell to his death.
One-hour guided tours (£6) of the museum are held at 2.30pm Saturdays.
Round ChurchCHURCH
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.christianheritage.org.uk; Bridge St; £2.50; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 1.30-4pm Sun)
Cambridge’s intensely atmospheric Round Church is one of only four such structures in England. It was built by the mysterious Knights Templar in 1130 and shelters an unusual circular nave ringed by chunky Norman pillars. The carved stone faces crowning the pillars bring the 12th century vividly to life.
The church’s position on Bridge St reminds you of its original role; that of a chapel for pilgrims crossing the river.
FANCY A PUNT?
Gliding a self-propelled punt along the Backs is a blissful experience – once you've got the hang of it. It can also be a manic challenge to begin. If you wimp out, you can always opt for a relaxing chauffeured punt.
Punt hire costs around £20 to £28 per hour; 45-minute chauffeured trips of the Backs cost about £15 to £19 per person. One-way trips to Grantchester (1½ hours) start at around £18 per person.
Punting looks pretty straightforward but, believe us, really – it's not. So here are some tips to stop you zigzagging wildly across the river, losing your pole and falling in.
AStanding at the back end of the punt, lift the pole out of the water at the side of the punt.
ALet the pole slide through your hands to touch the bottom of the river.
ATilt the pole forward (that is, in the direction of travel of the punt) and push down to propel the punt forward.
ATwist the pole to free the end from the mud at the bottom of the river, and let it float up and trail behind the punt. You can then use it as a rudder to steer.
AIf you haven't fallen in yet, raise the pole out of the water and into the vertical position to begin the cycle again.
AHold on to the pole, particularly when passing under Clare Bridge, as students sometimes snatch them for a giggle.
Espresso LibraryCAFE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.espressolibrary.co.uk; 210 East Rd; mains £6.90-9.50; h7am-6pm Mon-Sat, from 8am Sun; Wv)
A chilled soundtrack and customers with laptops at almost every table signal that this industrial-chic cafe is a student favourite. That'll be partly down to the wholesome food – think frittata with sweet potatoes and spinach, and juicy portobello mushrooms in brioche buns – and partly down to some cracking coffee.
SmokeworksBARBECUE$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.smokeworks.co.uk; 2 Free School Lane; mains £10-19; h11.45am-10.30pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat, to 9.30pm Sun; W)
This dark, industrial-themed dining spot draws discerning carnivores and local hipsters with its melt-in-your-mouth ribs, wings and wonderfully smoky pulled pork. The service is friendly and prompt, and the salted caramel milkshakes come in a glass the size of your head.
Pint ShopMODERN BRITISH$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %01223-352293; www.pintshop.co.uk; 10 Peas Hill; mains £12.50-25.50; hnoon-10pm Mon-Fri, 11am-10.30pm Sat, 11am-10pm Sun)
Popular Pint Shop's vision is to embrace eating and drinking equally. To this end, it's both a busy bar specialising in craft beer (10 on keg and six on draft) and a stylish dining room serving classy versions of traditional grub (dry-aged steaks, gin-cured sea trout, charcoal-grilled plaice). All in all, hard to resist.
oMidsummer HouseMODERN BRITISH$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %01223-369299; www.midsummerhouse.co.uk; Midsummer Common; 5/8 courses £56.50/120; hnoon-1.30pm Wed-Sat, 7-8.30pm Tue-Thu, 6.30-9.30pm Fri & Sat; v)
At the region’s top table, chef Daniel Clifford’s double-Michelin-starred creations are distinguished by depth of flavour and immense technical skill. Sample transformations of coal-baked celeriac, Cornish crab, and roast pigeon with wild garlic, before a sweet pear, blueberry and white chocolate delight.
Wine flights start at £45. Unusually, there are vegetarian versions of both set menus.
oEaglePUB
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.eagle-cambridge.co.uk; Benet St; h8am-11pm Mon-Sat, to 10.30pm Sun; Wc)
Cambridge's most famous pub has loosened the tongues and pickled the grey cells of many an illustrious academic; among them Nobel Prize–winning scientists Crick and Watson, who discussed their research into DNA here (note the blue plaque by the door). Fifteenth-century, wood-panelled and rambling, the Eagle's cosy rooms include one with WWII airmen's signatures on the ceiling.
The food, served all day, is good too.
Explore
Britain is littered with beautiful cities, but precious few compare to Bath. Home to some of the nation's grandest Georgian architecture – not to mention one of the world's best-preserved Roman bathhouses – this slinky, sophisticated, snooty city, founded on top of natural hot springs, has been a tourist draw for nigh on 2000 years.
Bath's heyday really began during the 18th century, when local entrepreneur Ralph Allen and his team of father-and-son architects, John Wood the Elder and Younger, turned this sleepy backwater into the toast of Georgian society, and constructed fabulous landmarks such as the Circus and Royal Crescent.
Getting There & Away
Bus
Bath's bus and coach station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Dorchester St) is near the train station.
National Express coaches run direct to London (£33, 3½ hours, eight to 10 daily). Two-hourly services also run to London Heathrow (£27, three hours). Services to many other destinations change at Bristol.
Local buses:
Bristol bus 38/39/X39; £5.50, 50 minutes, four per hour Monday to Saturday, half-hourly on Sunday
Wells bus 173; £5.50, one hour 15 minutes, two per hour Monday to Saturday, hourly Sunday)
Train
Bath Spa station is at the south end of Manvers St. Many services connect through Bristol, including those to the southwest and north of England.
Direct services:
Bristol £7.30, 15 minutes, three per hour
Cardiff Central £20, one hour, hourly
London Paddington £38, 1½ hours, half-hourly
Salisbury £18, one hour, hourly
Need to Know
oRoman BathsHISTORIC BUILDING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %01225-477785; www.romanbaths.co.uk; Abbey Churchyard; adult/child £15.50/9.80; h9.30am-6pm Sep-Jun, 9am-10pm Jul & Aug)
In typically ostentatious style, the Romans constructed a complex of bathhouses above Bath's three natural hot springs, which emerge at a steady 46°C (115°F). Situated alongside a temple dedicated to the healing goddess Sulis-Minerva, the baths now form one of the best-preserved ancient Roman spas in the world, and are encircled by 18th- and 19th-century buildings. Bath's premier attraction can get very busy. To dodge the worst of the crowds, avoid weekends, and July and August.
oRoyal CrescentARCHITECTURE
( GOOGLE MAP )
Bath is famous for its glorious Georgian architecture, and it doesn't get any grander than this semicircular terrace of majestic town houses overlooking the green sweep of Royal Victoria Park. Designed by John Wood the Younger (1728–82) and built between 1767 and 1775, the houses appear perfectly symmetrical from the outside, but the owners were allowed to tweak the interiors, so no two houses are quite the same. No 1 Royal Crescent ( GOOGLE MAP ; %01225-428126; www.no1royalcrescent.org.uk; 1 Royal Cres; adult/child/family £10/4/22; hnoon-5.30pm Mon, 10.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun Feb-early Dec) offers you an intriguing insight into life inside.
A walk east along Brock St from the Royal Crescent leads to The Circus ( GOOGLE MAP ; The Circus), a ring of 33 houses divided into three semicircular terraces. Plaques on the houses commemorate famous residents such as Thomas Gainsborough, Clive of India and David Livingstone. The terrace was designed by John Wood the Elder, but he died in 1754, and the terrace was completed by his son in 1768.
To the south along Gravel Walk is the Georgian Garden ( GOOGLE MAP ; off Royal Ave; h9am-5pm), restored to resemble a typical 18th-century town-house garden.
Pump RoomHISTORIC BUILDING
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.romanbaths.co.uk; Stall St; h10am-5pm)F
The centre of this grand 19th-century room is filled with tables from the Pump Room Restaurant, but there's also an ornate spa fountain from which Bath's famous hot springs flow. Ask staff for a (free) glass; the water tastes of minerals and is startlingly warm at an impressive 38°C (100°F).
The Pump Room is in the same complex as the Roman Baths, but is free to enter.
oBath AbbeyCHURCH
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.bathabbey.org; Abbey Churchyard; by donation adult/student £4/2; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon, 9am-5.30pm Tue-Fri, to 6pm Sat, 1-2.30pm & 4.30-6pm Sun)
Looming above the city centre, Bath's huge abbey church was built between 1499 and 1616, making it the last great medieval church raised in England. Its most striking feature is the west facade, where angels climb up and down stone ladders, commemorating a dream of the founder, Bishop Oliver King.
Tower tours ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.bathabbey.org; adult/child £6/3; h11am-4pm Mon-Sat Nov-Mar, 10am-5pm Apr-Aug, 10am-4pm Sep & Oct) leave on the hour from Monday to Friday, and every half-hour on Saturdays.
Bath Assembly RoomsHISTORIC BUILDING
(NT; GOOGLE MAP ; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; 19 Bennett St; h10.30am-6pm Mar-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Feb)F
When they opened in 1771, the city's glorious Assembly Rooms were where fashionable Bath socialites gathered to waltz, play cards and listen to the latest chamber music. Rooms that are open to the public include the card room, tearoom and ballroom – all lit by their original 18th-century chandeliers.
Adventure Cafe BarCAFE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.adventurecafebar.co.uk; 5 Princes Bldgs, George St; mains £5-10; h8am-3am Mon-Fri, 9am-3am Sat & Sun; v)
This cool cafe-bar offers something to everyone at most times of the day: morning cappuccino, lunchtime ciabatta and late-night beer and cocktails. There's great outdoor seating at the back.
oCircusMODERN BRITISH$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %01225-466020; www.thecircusrestaurant.co.uk; 34 Brock St; mains lunch £10-15, dinner £17-21; h10am-midnight Mon-Sat)
Chef Ali Golden has turned this bistro into one of Bath's destination addresses. Her taste is for British dishes with a Continental twist, à la the late British food writer Elizabeth David: rabbit, Wiltshire lamb and West Country fish are all infused with herby flavours and rich sauces. It occupies an elegant town house near the Circus. Reservations recommended.
Sotto SottoITALIAN$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %01225-330236; www.sottosotto.co.uk; 10 North Pde; mains £10-24.50; hnoon-2pm & 5-10pm; v)
The setting – an artfully lit vaulted brick chamber – is superb, and the food matches it for style. Authentic Italian dishes are likely to include Parma-ham-wrapped sea bass sautéed in white wine, and a spicy seafood and Tuscan bean pasta. Top tip: don't forgo the garlicky sautéed spinach side.
oStar InnPUB
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.abbeyales.co.uk; 23 The Vineyards, off the Paragon; hnoon-2.30pm & 5.30-11pm Mon-Fri, noon-midnight Sat, to 10.30pm Sun)
Few pubs are registered relics, but the Star is that, and it still has many of its 19th-century bar fittings. It's the brewery tap for Bath-based Abbey Ales; some ales are served in traditional jugs, and you can even ask for a pinch of snuff in the 'smaller bar'.
SalamanderPUB
( GOOGLE MAP ; %01225-428889; www.bathales.com; 3 John St; h11am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat, to 11pm Sun; W)
Owned by Bath Ales, local favourite 'the Sally' serves house beers such as amber Gem and the stronger Wild Hare Pale Ale. Food is served upstairs in the dining room.
STONEHENGE
oStonehengeARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
(EH; GOOGLE MAP ; %0370 333 1181; www.english-heritage.org.uk; adult/child same-day tickets £17.50/10.50, advance booking £16.50/9.90; h9am-8pm Jun-Aug, 9.30am-7pm Apr, May, Sep & early Oct, 9.30am-5pm mid-Oct–Mar; p)
An ultramodern makeover at ancient Stonehenge has brought an impressive visitor centre and the closure of an intrusive road (now restored to grassland). The result is a far stronger sense of historical context, with dignity and mystery returned to an archaeological gem.
A pathway frames the ring of massive stones. Although you can't walk in the circle, unless on a recommended Stone Circle Access Visit (%0370 333 0605; www.english-heritage.org.uk; adult/child £32/19), you can get close-up views. Admission is through timed tickets – secure a place well in advance.
Stonehenge is one of Britain's great archaeological mysteries: despite countless theories about the site's purpose, from a sacrificial centre to a celestial timepiece, no one knows for sure what drove prehistoric Britons to expend so much time and effort on its construction, although recent archeological findings show the surrounding area was sacred for hundreds of years before work began.
The first phase of building started around 3000 BC, when the outer circular bank and ditch were erected. A thousand years later, an inner circle of granite stones, known as bluestones, was added. It's thought that these mammoth 4-tonne blocks were hauled from the Preseli Mountains in South Wales, some 250 miles away – an almost inexplicable feat for Stone Age builders equipped with only the simplest of tools. Although no one is entirely sure how the builders transported the stones so far, it's thought they probably used a system of ropes, sledges and rollers fashioned from tree trunks – Salisbury Plain was still covered by forest during Stonehenge's construction.
Around 1500 BC, Stonehenge's main stones were dragged to the site, erected in a circle and crowned by massive lintels to make the trilithons (two vertical stones topped by a horizontal one). The sarsen (sandstone) stones were cut from an extremely hard rock found on the Marlborough Downs, 20 miles from the site. It's estimated that dragging one of these 50-tonne stones across the countryside would require about 600 people.
Also around this time, the bluestones from 500 years earlier were rearranged as an inner bluestone horseshoe with an altar stone at the centre. Outside this the trilithon horseshoe of five massive sets of stones was erected. Three of these are intact; the other two have just a single upright. Then came the major sarsen circle of 30 massive vertical stones, of which 17 uprights and six lintels remain.
Much further out, another circle was delineated by the 58 Aubrey Holes, named after John Aubrey, who discovered them in the 1600s. Just inside this circle are the South and North Barrows, each originally topped by a stone. Like many stone circles in Britain (including Avebury, 22 miles away), the inner horseshoes are aligned to coincide with sunrise at the midsummer solstice, which some claim supports the theory that the site was some kind of astronomical calendar.
Prehistoric pilgrims would have entered the site via the Avenue, whose entrance to the circle is marked by the Slaughter Stone and the Heel Stone, located slightly further out on one side.
Plans for a road tunnel beneath Stonehenge look likely to go ahead. The proposed tunnel should reduce traffic around the sight, although some commentators fear it could damage other, as yet undiscovered, monuments in the area.
Admission to the site is free for English Heritage and National Trust members.