INDEX

Note: Page references in italics indicate photographs.

A

Accompaniments

    about the recipes, 14–15

    buying ingredients for, 86, 109

    favorite contrasts, 87–88

    fresh local produce for, 109

    leftover, uses for, 14–15, 86

    pairing with cheeses, 19, 86–88

    presenting, on serving platter, 170–171

    store-bought options for, 10, 14

Affinage, 78–79

Airtight containers, 16

Ameribella (Jacobs & Brichford Farmstead Cheese), 77, 82, 83

Anchovy Broccoli Purée, 192, 199

Anise Meringue, 139, 148, 148–149

Anton’s Ziege Rot (Käserei Zurwies), 192, 195

Apple(s)

    Chutney, Sweet and Spicy, 181, 191

    Maple Roasted, 67, 72, 73

Arpea de Brebis (France), 55, 62

Asparagus, Lemon Roasted, 127, 136, 137

B

Baba Ghanoush, 116, 120–121

Bacon Love, 181, 186, 187

Bacon Molasses Mustard, 126, 134–135

Balsamic Pickled Figs, Sweet, 156, 167

Balsamic Reduction, Laced, 67, 76

Balsamic Rosemary Cherry Mustard, 55, 63

Barbablu (Italy), 108, 114

Barely Buzzed (Beehive Cheese Company), 139, 148

Basil-Seed Passionfruit Curd, 45, 48, 48–49

Bayley Hazen Blue (Jasper Hill Farm), 152, 154

Bean, Fava, Pesto, 156, 160, 161

Beverages, pairing with cheese, 140–143

Blackberry Honey, 77, 80

Blood Orange Fennel Chip, 139, 146, 147

Bloomsdale (Baetje Farms), 108, 112

Bourbon Walnuts, 84, 90

Brandy Poached Pears, 192, 196, 196–197

Bread, serving cheese with, 98–99

Brevibacterium linens (B. linens), 26

Brillat-Savarin (France), 20, 29

Brittle, Spicy Curry Cashew, 156, 162–163

Broccoli Anchovy Purée, 192, 199

Brown Sugar Fudge, 77, 81

Buffalo’s milk

    Casatica di Bufala (Quattro Portoni), 45, 50

    cheeses made from, 47

    Surfin’ Blu (Quattro Portoni), 55, 63

Burrata alla Panna (Di Stefano Cheese), 55, 59

Butter, for recipes, 16

Butternut Squash, Cardamom Poached, 84, 89, 91

C

Cajeta

    Coconut Pineapple, 156, 166

    Coffee, 55, 62

Caña de Cabra (Spain), 36, 40

Caramel Corn, Herbes de Provence, 21, 34, 34–35

Caraway Tomato Chutney, 67, 74, 74–75

Cardamom Poached Butternut Squash, 84, 89, 91

Carré du Berry (Fromagerie Jacquin), 108, 113

Carrot(s)

    Chutney, Spiced, 127, 130, 131

    Cumin Purée, 138, 144, 145

    Dilly, 85, 92

Casatica di Bufala (Quatttro Portoni), 45, 50

Cashew Brittle, Spicy Curry, 156, 162–163

Cauliflower Purée, Golden, 169, 178

Cayuga Blue (Lively Run Goat Dairy), 117, 124

Chällerhocker (Switzerland), 85, 93

Cheese

    bloomy and soft, about, 24

    blue, about, 27

    blue, aging process, 69

    buying from cheesemongers, 37

    categories of, 22–27

    cooked and pressed, about, 25

    environmental variations, 128

    farmstead, about, 79

    fresh, about, 23

    how it is made, 68–69

    industrial versus “real,” 118

    influenced by seasons, 109–111

    for lactose intolerant, 56

    learning about, 37

    living microflora in, 118–119

    local, buying, 129–130

    Old World styles, 129

    pairing beverages with, 140–143

    for pregnant women, 57, 58

    regional variations, 128–130

    rinds, about, 193

    ripening (affinage), 78–79

    serving at room temperature, 183, 193

    serving with crackers or bread, 98–99

    storing, 182–183

    substituting, note about, 15

    tasting, tips for, 193–194

    uncooked and pressed, about, 25

    washed-rind, about, 26

    washed-rind, aging process, 69

    wrapping, 182–183

Cheesemongers, 37

Cheese plates

    at Casellula, 7–9

    cutting or slicing cheese for, 172

    experimenting with, 9–10

    focus and balance in, 157–159

    for larger parties, 153

    for one person, 153

    order of cheeses on, 170, 171

    pairing cheese with accompaniments, 19, 86–88

    serving platters for, 170

    for sharing at the table, 153

    store-bought options for, 10, 14

Cherry

    Balsamic Rosemary Mustard, 55, 63

    Chutney, Savory, 85, 95

Chèvre (Fromagerie Jacquin), 45, 48

Chèvre (Rollingstone), 116, 120

Chevrolait (Prodigal Farm), 67, 74

Chipotle Cumin Mustard, 36, 42

Chocolate

    Graham Cracker, Salted, 152, 154–155

    White, Green Tea Fudge, 169, 179

Chutney

    Apple, Sweet and Spicy, 181, 191

    Carrot, Spiced, 127, 130, 131

    Cherry, Savory, 85, 95

    Tomato Caraway, 67, 74, 74–75

Coconut

    Macaroons, 45, 50–51

    Pineapple Cajeta, 156, 166

Coffee Cajeta, 55, 62

Compote

    Husk Cherry, 20, 28

    Summer Peach, 55, 59

Concord Grapes, Sweet Pickled, 192, 201

Confit, Tomato, 180, 184–185

Corn, Creamed, 180, 190

Cottonseed (Boxcarr Handmade Cheese), 55, 60

Coupole (Vermont Creamery), 127, 131

Cow’s milk. See also specific types below

    cheeses made from, 46

Cow’s milk (pasteurized)

    Barely Buzzed, 139, 148

    Brillat-Savarin, 20, 29

    Burrata alla Panna, 55, 59

    Cottonseed, 55, 60

    Crémeaux des Augustins, 138, 150

    Dunbarton Blue, 181, 191

    Époisses, 156, 165

    Fresh Mozzarella, 180, 184

    Georgic, 192, 196

    Gina Marie Cream Cheese, 156, 166

    Good Thunder, 36, 42

    Gorgonzola Dolce, 156, 167

    Green Hill, 180, 190

    Grevenbroeker, 169, 179

    Kunik, 66, 71

    La Peral, 192, 201

    La Tur, 97, 102

    Mimolette (eighteen-month), 96, 103

    Red Hawk, 139, 146

    Renaissance Ricotta, 20, 28

    Rosso di Langa, 84, 89

    Vintage Cheddar, 181, 186, 187

Cow’s milk (raw)

    Ameribella, 77, 82, 83

    Bayley Hazen Blue, 152, 154

    Dancing Fern, 169, 178

    Feta, 138, 145

    Gruyère Eighteen Month, 169, 173

    Herdsman, 156, 162

    Hooligan, 21, 32

    Mad River Blue, 127, 136

    Ouleout, 97, 105

    Pawlet, 126, 134

    Pleasant Ridge Reserve, 44, 52

    Premium Gouda 18 Month, 181, 188, 189

    Rogue River Blue, 139, 151

    Stilton, 85, 95

    Taleggio Gusto Antico, 192, 199

    Tomme Brulée, 36, 38, 39

    Winnimere, 67, 72

Cow’s milk (thermalized)

    Chällerhocker, 85, 93

Crackers, serving cheese with, 98–99

Crémeaux des Augustins (France), 138, 150

Cumin

    Carrot Purée, 138, 144, 145

    Chipotle Mustard, 36, 42

Curd, Passionfruit Basil-Seed, 45, 48, 48–49

Curds and whey, 68–69

Curry Cashew Brittle, Spicy, 156, 162–163

D

Dairy allergies, 56

Dancing Fern (Sequatchie Cove Creamery), 169, 178

Deviled-Egg Cream, 66, 70, 71

Dilly Carrots, 85, 92

Dunbarton Blue (Roelli Cheese Haus), 181, 191

E

E. coli, 57–58

Eggplant

    Baba Ghanoush, 116, 120–121

Egg(s)

    Deviled-, Cream, 66, 70, 71

    for recipes, 16

Époisses (France), 156, 165

Equipment and ingredients, 16–17

Ewe’s Blue (Old Chatham Sheepherding Company), 96, 106

F

Fava Bean Pesto, 156, 160, 161

Fennel

    Blood Orange, Chip, 139, 146, 147

    Pickled, 97, 104, 105

Feta (Spoonwood Cabin), 138, 145

Figs, Sweet Balsamic Pickled, 156, 167

Frère Fumant (3-Corner Field Farm), 168, 176

Fresh (Green Dirt Farm), 168, 174, 175

Fresh Mozzarella (Mozzarella Company), 180, 184

Fudge

    Brown Sugar, 77, 81

    Green Tea White Chocolate, 169, 179

G

Georgic (Calkins Creamery), 192, 196

Geotrichum candidum, 24

Gina Marie Cream Cheese (Sierra Nevada Cheese Co.), 156, 166

Goat’s milk. See also specific categories below

    cheeses made from, 47

Goat’s milk (pasteurized)

    Anton’s Ziege Rot, 192, 195

    Barbablu, 108, 114

    Bloomsdale, 108, 112

    Caña de Cabra, 36, 40

    Carré du Berry, 108, 113

    Chèvre (Fromagerie Jacquin), 45, 48

    Chèvre (Rollingstone), 116, 120

    Chevrolait, 67, 74

    Cottonseed, 55, 60

    Coupole, 127, 131

    Humbolt Fog, 77, 80

    Kunik, 66, 71

    La Tur, 97, 102

    O’Banon, 84, 90

    Providence, 55, 65

    Thin Red Line, 126, 132, 133

    Up in Smoke, 96, 100

    Wabash Cannonball, 156, 160, 161

Goat’s milk (raw)

    Cayuga Blue, 117, 124

    Ibores, 116, 123

Good Thunder (Alemar Cheese Company), 36, 42

Gorgonzola Dolce (Italy), 156, 167

Graham Cracker, Salted Chocolate, 152, 154–155

Green Hill (Sweet Grass Dairy), 180, 190

Green Tea White Chocolate Fudge, 169, 179

Grevenbroeker (Belgium), 169, 179

Gruyère Eighteen Month (Gourmino), 169, 173

H

Herb-Butter Poached Potatoes, 44, 52, 53

Herbes de Provence Caramel Corn, 21, 34, 34–35

Herdsman (Parish Hill Creamery), 156, 162

Honey

    Blackberry, 77, 80

    Honeycomb, 117, 124, 125

    Mustard, Smoky, 96, 103

Hooligan (Cato Corner Farm), 21, 32

Humbolt Fog (Cypress Grove), 77, 80

Husk Cherry Compote, 20, 28

I

Ibores (Spain), 116, 123

Ice bath, 17

Ingredients and equipment, 16–17

J

Jelly

    Rosemary Rhubarb, 108, 113

    Sweet and Spicy Red Pepper, 126, 132, 133

K

Kale Pesto, 168, 174, 175

Kiwi Mostarda, 96, 106, 107

Kunik (Nettle Meadow Farm), 66, 71

L

Lactose intolerance, 56

La Peral (Spain), 192, 201

La Tur (Alta Langa), 97, 102

Leeks, Lush, 192, 195

Lemon

    Roasted Asparagus, 127, 136, 137

    Saffron Marshmallows, Lovely, 36, 40, 40–41

Listeria, 57–58

Lotus Root, Sweet and Sour, 116, 122, 123

M

Macaroons, Coconut, 45, 50–51

Mad River Blue (Von Trapp Farmstead), 127, 136

Manchego Añejo (El Cortijo), 85, 92

Maple Roasted Apples, 67, 72, 73

Marshmallows, Lovely Lemon Saffron, 36, 40, 40–41

Measuring cups, 17

Meringue, Anise, 139, 148, 148–149

Micro zester (rasp grater), 17

Milk allergies, 56

Mimolette (eighteen-month) (France), 96, 103

Mitibleu (Spain), 44, 54

Mold spores, 24, 27, 69, 128

Mostarda

    Kiwi, 96, 106, 107

    Pineapple, 192, 198

Mushroom(s)

    Duxelles, 138, 150

    Shiitake Salad, 156, 164, 165

Mustard

    Bacon Molasses, 126, 134–135

    Balsamic Rosemary Cherry, 55, 63

    Chipotle Cumin, 36, 42

    Smoky Honey, 96, 103

O

O’Banon (Capriole Goat Cheese), 84, 90

Okra, Smoky Pickled, 44, 54

Olive, Castelvetrano, Lemon Tapenade, 169, 173

Onion(s)

    Roasted Cipollini, 85, 93, 94

    Sweet, and Spring Pea Purée, 20, 29

Orange

    Blood, Fennel Chip, 139, 146, 147

    Confit, 181, 188, 189

Ossau-Iraty (France), 77, 81

Ouleout (Vulto Creamery), 97, 105

P

Parchment paper, 17

Parsnip Purée, 55, 60, 61

Passionfruit Basil-Seed Curd, 45, 48, 48–49

Pasteurization, 57, 69

Pawlet (Consider Bardwell Farm), 126, 134

Pea, Spring, and Sweet Onion Purée, 20, 29

Peach Compote, Summer, 55, 59

Pear Cider Reduction, Spiced, 21, 32–33

Pears, Brandy Poached, 192, 196, 196–197

Pecans, Buttered, 96, 100, 101

Pecorino Foglie (Italy), 20, 31

Penicillium candidum, 24, 27

Pepitas, Fried, 36, 38, 39

Pepper, Red, Jelly, Sweet and Spicy, 126, 132, 133

Pesto

    Fava Bean, 156, 160, 161

    Kale, 168, 174, 175

    Sun-Dried Tomato, 20, 30, 31

    Toasted Walnut, 139, 151

Pickled Concord Grapes, Sweet, 192, 201

Pickled Fennel, 97, 104, 105

Pickled Figs, Sweet Balsamic, 156, 167

Pickled Okra, Smoky, 44, 54

Pickled Rhubarb, Pink-Pepper, 108, 114, 115

Pineapple

    Coconut Cajeta, 156, 166

    Mostarda, 192, 198

    Sweet and Sour, 168, 176–177, 177

Pine Nuts, Rosemary, 55, 64, 65

Pink-Pepper Pickled Rhubarb, 108, 114, 115

Pleasant Ridge Reserve (Uplands Cheese), 44, 52

Popcorn

    Herbes de Provence Caramel Corn, 21, 34, 34–35

Potatoes, Herb-Butter Poached, 44, 52, 53

Premium Gouda 18 Month (Marieke Gouda), 181, 188, 189

Providence (Goat Lady Dairy), 55, 65

Purée

    Carrot Cumin, 138, 144, 145

    Golden Cauliflower, 169, 178

    Parsnip, 55, 60, 61

    Spring Pea and Sweet Onion, 20, 29

R

Rasp grater (micro zester), 17

Red Hawk (Cowgirl Creamery), 139, 146

Reductions

    Laced Balsamic, 67, 76

    Spiced Pear Cider, 21, 32–33

Renaissance Ricotta (Narragansett Creamery), 20, 28

Rhubarb

    Pink-Pepper Pickled, 108, 114, 115

    Rosé, 108, 112

    Rosemary Jelly, 108, 113

Ricotta Scorza Nera (Marcelli Formaggi), 67, 76

Rogue River Blue (Rogue Creamery), 139, 151

Roquefort (France), 21, 34

Rosemary

    Balsamic Cherry Mustard, 55, 63

    Pine Nuts, 55, 64, 65

    Rhubarb Jelly, 108, 113

Rosé Rhubarb, 108, 112

Rosso di Langa (Alta Langa), 84, 89

S

Saffron Lemon Marshmallows, Lovely, 36, 40, 40–41

Salad, Shiitake, 156, 164, 165

Salt, 17

San Andreas (Bellwether Farms), 192, 198

Saucepans, 17

Shallots, Red Wine, 77, 82, 83

Sheep’s milk. See also specific categories below

    cheeses made from, 46–47

Sheep’s milk (pasteurized)

    Arpea de Brebis, 55, 62

    Ewe’s Blue, 96, 106

    Fresh, 168, 174, 175

    La Tur, 97, 102

    Ossau-Iraty, 77, 81

    Roquefort, 21, 34

    Rosso di Langa, 84, 89

Sheep’s milk (raw)

    Frère Fumant, 168, 176

    Manchego Añejo, 85, 92

    Mitibleu, 44, 54

    Pecorino Foglie (Italy), 20, 31

    Ricotta Scorza Nera, 67, 76

    San Andreas, 192, 198

Shiitake Salad, 156, 164, 165

Silica gel, 17

Squash, Butternut, Cardamom Poached, 84, 89, 91

Stilton (Colston Bassett), 85, 95

Strawberries, Stewed, 97, 102

Surfin’ Blu (Quattro Portoni), 55, 63

T

Taleggio Gusto Antico (Italy), 192, 199

Tapenade, Castelvetrano Olive Lemon, 169, 173

Thermalization, 69

Thin Red Line (Lazy Lady Farm), 126, 132, 133

Tomato

    Caraway Chutney, 67, 74, 74–75

    Confit, 180, 184–185

    Sun-Dried, Pesto, 20, 30, 31

Tomme Brulée (France), 36, 38, 39

U

Up in Smoke (River’s Edge), 96, 100

V

Vanilla beans and extract, 17

Vintage Cheddar (Quicke’s), 181, 186, 187

W

Wabash Cannonball (Capriole Goat Cheese), 156, 160, 161

Walnut(s)

    Bourbon, 84, 90

    Toasted, Pesto, 139, 151

Whey, separating from curds, 68

White Chocolate Green Tea Fudge, 169, 179

Wine

    pairing with cheese, 141–142

    Red, Shallots, 77, 82, 83

    Rosé Rhubarb, 108, 112

Winnimere (Jasper Hill Farm), 67, 72