Entertainment
Bologna is lively all year round, but particularly from March to June and September to December when the cultural season is in full swing. The huge student population ensures that the city has a vibrant nightlife scene − during term-time at least; and during the long summer holiday, when the students abandon the city, the authorities stage a season of music and cinema to content its visitors. Bologna stages great music, both classical and contemporary, and is the only Italian city to have been appointed a Unesco Creative City of Music (2006). The tourist office website (www.bolognawelcome.com) is a good source of information for the host of cultural events and the venues for nightlife.
Designer shops line the elegant Portico del Pavaglione
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Classical Music, Opera and Theatre
The Teatro Comunale (Largo Respighi 1; www.tcbo.it) is the main venue for the performing arts, from opera and ballet to orchestral and chamber music. Tickets are available from the box office, the Bologna Welcome tourist office in Piazza Maggiore or online. Concerts are also organised in other city theatres, churches and at the Conservatorio G.B. Martini (Piazza Rossini 2; www.consbo.it), a concert hall within a former Augustine convent. Many churches, such as Santo Stefano, San Domenico, Santa Maria dei Servi and Santa Cristina, double up as concert venues. The frescoed Museo Internazionale e Biblioteca della Musica (Strada Maggiore 34, www.museibologna.it) is both an exceptional museum of music and a venue for classical concerts and events; likewise the restored church of San Colombano is home to the Tagliavini collection of historical musical instruments and hosts free monthly classical concerts from October to June. The central Auditorium Teatro Manzoni (Via De’Monari ½; www.auditoriumanzoni.it), set within a finely restored Art Nouveau palazzo, hosts a range of concerts from classical to jazz, rock and contemporary. The Teatro Europa (Piazza Costituzione 4; www.teatroeuropa.it) is a multi-purpose venue for ballet, musicals and drama located near the Fiera exhibition centre.
Sotto le stelle del Cinema, a popular open-air film festival held in Piazza Maggiore in July
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Cinema
The Cineteca di Bologna (www.cinetecadibologna.it) is located within the transformed Manifattura Tabacchi, a former tobacco factory on the northwest edge of the city, and now a major cultural centre. The Cineteca’s state-of-the-art Cinéma Lumière (with the Sala Scorsese and Sala Mastroianni) honours the history of the moving image, screening restored classics, retrospectives and rare films always in the original version. The Cineteca also hosts Bologna’s film festivals. Within the same complex is the Renzo Renzi Library, dedicated to the conservation and study of film and photography and the archives of Charlie Chaplin and Pier Paolo Pasolini (viewing by appointment only). The Capitol cinema (www.capitolmultisala.com) near the station shows blockbusters in their original version, with Italian subtitles.
Nightlife
As a lively university city, Bologna has no shortage of bars, pubs, clubs, live jazz and late-opening restaurants. The early evening involves the ritual passeggiata, the people-watching parade, partly viewed from a succession of café terraces. In summer Bologna’s parks are transformed into party venues, with the atmosphere resembling a less boisterous version of a German Biergarten. The most popular spot is La Montagnola Park which has live jazz and rock music, as well as stalls selling beer, wine and fast food. Open-air concerts, films and festivities are also staged in city squares, such as Piazza Maggiore; other events take place in streets, museums and under the porticoes.
In general the liveliest area in town is the Via Zamboni in the university district which has the greatest concentration of late-night music haunts. The Via del Pratello area on the west side of the city also appeals to night-owls with pubs and bars (frequently serving food as well as drinks) interspersed with music clubs and inns. The nightlife is predominantly student-orientated although there are bar-restaurants that appeal to all ages. A good example is Cantina Bentivoglio (www.cantinabentivoglio.it) where the best jazz in Bologna can be enjoyed in palatial 16th-century cellars. An equally ageless, classless place is Osteria de’ Poeti (www.osteriadepoeti.com) where, along with a friendly owner, brick-vaulted ceilings, 16th-century stonework and picturesque wine barrels provide a mellow mood for live jazz and folk music. Jazz has been thriving since the arrival of American troops at the end of World War II and can be heard in many other osterie throughout the city.
Aperitivo Time
Cocktails are part of Bolognese nightlife and Happy Hour is a moveable feast, from 6−9.30pm. The price of a drink may seem steep, but stuzzichini (appetizers) and often a whole buffet may be included and can provide a meal in itself. A favourite cocktail is an Aperol Spritz, made with orange liqueur, prosecco and a splash of soda. Among the popular cocktail spots are: Zanarini behind the Basilica, rendez-vous of well-heeled Bolognesi; Eataly, the popular ‘marketplace’ Italian chain at Via degli Orefici; and Ex Forno, the trendy café at the Bologna Museum of Modern Art. But the most unusual spot has to be the atmospheric Le Stanze (for more information, click here) housed within a Bentivoglio chapel.
Shopping
Bologna’s best buys are food and wine, fashion and designer goods. Shopping here is anything but provincial, and ranges from one-off boutiques to top designer brands − many of which started out in the city or in the wider region. Bologna’s up-market fashion outlets are all central, and clustered around the Piazza Maggiore area, some in beautifully restored palazzi. The pedestrianised Via d’Azeglio is a lovely place to shop, as is Via dell’Archiginnasio, the porticoed area behind San Petronio known as the Pavaglione. The smartest boutiques line Via Farini and the discreet shopping galleries nearby. Galleria Cavour, a luxurious arcade linking Via Farini with Via de’Foscherari, is the place to go for the big designer brands. More mainstream shopping, from high fashion to footwear, can be found along Via dell’Indipendenza, Via Rizzoli and Via Ugo Bassi, the high streets of Bologna. Coin, at Via Rizzoli 7, part of the chain department store, is worth checking out for affordable clothes made in Italy.
Pasta Perfect
What better souvenir than to be able to recreate perfect hand-made pasta back home? Bologna has over 20 cookery schools, which is perhaps not surprising in what is generally regarded as the culinary capital of Italy. A half-day course might take in a tour of the local market with its fresh produce and gourmet delis (with tastings on the way) and a lesson on how to make an authentic ragù alla bolognese (bolognese sauce) and prepare the egg pasta from scratch. After all the hard work you can sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labour − along with a glass or two of good vino. The hands-on lessons are adapted to level of experience and culinary requirements; they are usually held in very small groups and last a couple of hours, a half or whole day or longer. A few days’ notice may be required, though last-minute requests are always worth trying. Costs vary considerably from €90−160 for a half-day class (followed by lunch, which is included in the price). Full details are available from the Bologna Welcome tourist office (www.bolognawelcome.com).
Giorgio Armani was born in nearby Piacenza
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Bologna has a dazzling array of gastronomic delicacies. Moreover, Emilia Romagna, as a region, is dedicated to preserving its unique branded produce, from Parmesan cheese and Parma ham to balsamic vinegar, extra-virgin olive oil and wine. All of these can be picked up in delicatessens, markets, or sampled directly from the producers. The Bolognesi attach great importance to finding the right foodstuffs and you are likely to find good quality just about everywhere, even in the simplest street market.
The Bologna Welcome office (www.bolognawelcome.com) has information on gastronomic tours where you can track down tasty cheeses, cured meats, truffles, dried mushrooms and genuine balsamic vinegar − just to name a few. In central Bologna, just off Piazza Maggiore, the warren of alleys making up the Mercato di Mezzo is a feast for the eyes with its specialised food shops, stalls piled high with fresh fruit, fish and cheese and a covered market which sells the finest regional produce. Along Via Pescherie Vecchie, Via degli Orefici and Via Drapperie shopkeepers tempt passers-by with slices of mortadella and prosciutto. Tamburini (Via Caprarie 1; www.tamburini.com) is the city’s most endearing delicatessen, brimming with Bolognese and Emilian specialities. Try them out at their VeloCibò self-service. For homemade pasta and bread look no further than Paolo Atti & Figli (Via Caprarie 7; www.paoloatti.com), a Bolognese institution dating back to 1900 and still in the same family. Pastas are all made on the spot and their beautifully wrapped and boxed creations make perfect Italian gifts to take back home. Also in the heart of the market is Salumeria Simoni (Via Drapperie 5/2a; www.salumeriasimoni.it) which is stacked to the brim with hams and cheeses. A step inside the shop may well tempt you to sign up for one of their gastronomy tours or at least to try out the delicacies with local wine.
Food shopping is an art in Bologna
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Chocoholics should head for Majani (Via Carbonesi 5; www.majani.it), one of Italy’s oldest chocolate shops whose delicacies were one-time favourites with European royalty. Displays are laid out in a splendid Art-Nouveau shop-front and Art-Deco interior. Try the Fiat Majani, created for the launch of the new Fiat Tipo 4, hence the four layers of velvety chocolate. Another irresistible chocolatier is Roccati (Via Clavature 17a; www.roccaticioccolato.com) where you can watch the chocolate creations being sculpted in the workshop. Their speciality is gianduja, chocolate with hazelnut. For divine patisserie head for Regina di Quadri on Via Castiglione (www.pasticceriareginadiquadri.it), with its show-stopping cakes and pastries.
Modena is renowned for aceto balsamico (balsamic vinegar) but the factory-produced variety made of wine vinegar bears scant resemblance to the traditional product − a subtle, unctuous substance that can only be sold after ageing in wooden casks for at least 12 years (red label), 18 years (silver label) or 25 years (gold label). Look for Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena or di Reggio Emilia. The real thing is a reduction of pressed and cooked Trebbiano and Lambrusco grapes, with a complex sweet and sour flavour, a hint of wood, and a high price tag. Expect to pay €40–80 for a small bottle, but whether you are using it on Parmigiano Reggiano and mortadella or drizzling it over strawberries or gelato, all you will need is a few drops. Bottles can be bought from acetaiae (balsamic vinegar producers) in the region or from high-end food shops in Bologna.
There are several excellent enoteche (specialised wine stores) where you can try and buy local wines, among them Enoteca Italiana (Via Marsala 2b) with a wonderful selection of Italian and particularly Emilia Romagna wines. It is run by two award-winning sommeliers who will guide you round – and suggest wines to go with regional treats such as Parma ham and mortadella which are served here all day.
Markets
The city markets are full of character, atmosphere and delicious foodstuffs, ideal for picnics or as presents to take home. In the centre are the Mercato di Mezzo and adjoining open-air food market as well as the renovated Mercato delle Erbe at Via Ugo Bassi 25, a large and lively covered market with wonderful local produce and a new food court where you can sit and make the most of prepared market produce. The Mercato Antiquario, occupying Piazza Santo Stefano and the streets nearby, is an antiques and curios market, with vintage clothing and jewellery, held on the second Saturday and Sunday of the month from 8.30am−6pm (7pm in summer, closed July and Aug). Another antiquarian fixture is the Mercato dell’Antiquariato on Via Matteotti on the first Tuesday of the month (except for July and Aug) and from Mar−June and Sept−Dec also the third Tuesday of the month. The DecoMela Art and San Giuseppe Colours on Via San Giuseppe, which take place on alternative weekends (Fri−Sun except Jan, July and Aug), are handicraft-collectors’ haunts, with pottery, lamps, fabrics and semi-precious stones. La Piazzola market occupies the Piazza VIII Agosto every Friday and Saturday and is worth checking out for bargain shoes and clothes, including vintage; it also sells leather, bric-à-brac, arts and crafts.
Markets and food stalls abound with locally grown fruit and vegetables
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Sport
Basketball (pallacanestro) in Bologna is hugely popular and the city’s Virtus team (www.virtus.it) is one of the best in Europe. Tickets are available at www.ticketone.it or at the Unipol Arena in Casalecchio di Reno, southwest of the city, where they play. Their home rivals are Fortitudo (in the 2nd Division) who play at PalaDozza (or ‘the Palazzo’), a multipurpose arena with a capacity of 5,570 in Piazza Azzarita, northwest of the centre. As elsewhere in Italy football (soccer) is a passion. Bologna FC (Football Club, www.bolognafc.it) in the First Division has won the Italian league championship seven times, and when they are playing at home thousands of fans will be heading to the Renato dall’Ara stadium, Via Andrea Costa 174, about 3km (2 miles) west of the city centre. Tickets can be bought at various tobacconists or online at https://sport.ticketone.it.
Fabulous cars at the Museo Ferruccio Lamborghini
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Motor Valley
In the heart of Emilia’s ‘Land of Motors’, with its Ferrari and Lamborghini-inspired museums, Bologna is a motor-lover’s dream. The museums can be visited independently by public transport or on a guided tour − details of which can be found at the Bologna Welcome tourist office and on their website (www.bolognawelcome.com). For the Ferrari Museums in Maranello and Modena click here. The Museo Ferruccio Lamborghini (www.museolamborghini.com) moved in 2013 from Dosso near Ferrara to Argelato, 15km (9 miles) north of Bologna. Visitors who book ahead can tour the company factory with Fabio Lamborghini, a nephew of the famous founder Ferruccio. For motorbike fans the Ducati Museum at the Ducati Factory (www.ducati.com/ww/en/ducati-museum-and-factory/museum), 9km (5.5 miles) northwest of the city centre, displays the models that have made the brand famous worldwide.
Active Pursuits
Few of the central hotels have fitness centres but to get rid of excess tortellini you could climb the Asinelli Tower (498 steps), stretch your legs in the Parco della Montagnola or Giardini Margherita or walk 6km (4 miles) up to the hilltop sanctuary of San Luca.
The city is well equipped with public swimming pools including the Piscina Sterlino (Via A. Murri 113) southeast of the city, with one Olympic-sized pool, two 25m ones and a green area with bar, parasols and sunbeds in summer, and the Carmen Longo-Stadio at Bologna’s football stadium centre (Via dello Sport, www.sogese.com), with indoor and outdoor pools. The Circolo Tennis Bologna (Viale Rino Cristiani 2; www.circolotennisbologna.com) in the Margherita Gardens has seven courts, floodlit from April to September and covered for the rest of the year. It also has a 25m swimming pool and a gym. For relaxation and wellbeing, the Mare Terme San Petronio (Via Irnerio 12/A; www.maretermalebolognese.it), near Parco della Montagnola, offers thermal spa waters, sauna, pool, hot tubs and beauty treatments. For those who prefer a Turkish bath the Hammam Bleu (Vicolo Barbazzi 4; www.hammam.it), centrally located just south of the Basilica of San Petronio, has treatments ranging from basic (€55) to the full works (€185). Booking is essential, as is a membership fee of €10 per person.
Sports in Emilia Romagna
Emilia Romagna can compete with the sportiest of regions, with activities ranging from sailing to cycling, riding to alpine skiing, ice-skating to Formula One racing. The landscape lends itself to a wealth of possibilities: the lofty Apennines become small-scale ski slopes in winter but revert to rugged open-walking country in spring and summer. The flat area around Ferrara is gentle cycling country with inviting tracks created on the raised canal banks in the Po Delta area. The Ferrara tourist authorities have set up superb cycling routes, with guides, to get you effortlessly around the Po Delta. The region is well endowed with ‘bike hotels’ − places offering a full service from picnic hampers to bike repairs and maps for the next stretch of route.
Ice cream is always a winner
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Children’s Bologna
Bologna is not the obvious choice for children, especially given the sparsity of parks and gardens in the centre. Active youngsters might enjoy the challenge of 498 steps up the Torre degli Asinelli, older ones will no doubt be fascinated by the Teatro Anatomico where human dissections took place, the Specola (Observatory) and waxwork museums of the University (for more information, click here). The innovative Museum of History at Palazzo Pepoli is geared to all ages with 3-D films and reconstructions, and the Sala Borsa multimedia centre, right in the centre, is a good place to chill out with computers or watching films. Take sports fans to see Virtus play basketball and to let off steam climb (or jog/bike up) the world’s longest portico to the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca. The best park for picnics (or snacks at the Chalet dei Giardini Margherita on the bridge over the central lake) is the Giardini di Margherita, just beyond the southern city walls. In the Parco della Montagnola, children can enjoy a variety of shows and themed activities.